Vintages Release, September 29, 2007

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de Roquemale ‘Les Terraces’ 2005
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $16.95 (42978)
This is a very attractive blend that’s 40% Cinsault, 40% Grenache and 20% Syrah, all from fairly mature vines (ranging from 17-year-old Syrah to 40-year-old Cinsault). The aromas and flavours are predominantly black berries and dark cherries, with spicy notes and the slightest hint of pepper. Medium bodied, it has easy-going tannins, and a smooth texture. A good line of acidity makes it an excellent partner for grilled red meats. (RP)

Vintages Release, September 29, 2007

**** drink or cellar
Château Lamargue ‘Cuvée Aegidiane’ 2003
Costières de Nîmes $20.95 (33993)
This is an appealing blend of Syrah (80%) and Grenache (20%) that delivers fairly high-toned aromas and concentrated flavours of black and red cherry, black berries and spice, all complemented by more refreshing acidity than you’d expect from the 2003 vintage. The tannins are ripe and the texture is edgy and interesting. It’s a wine that demands food, and an excellent match is grilled, well-seasoned lamb chops. (RP)

Vintages Release October, 2007

****1/2 drink now
Taittinger Brut Réserve Non-Vintage Champagne
AOC Champagne $59.95 (814723)
Tattinger’s total production is 5 million bottles per annum and 4 million is this very popular Brut Réserve. Uncharacteristically for a Champagne with such high production, it’s predominantly Chardonnay (40%) with the balance an even split between Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Twenty percent of the wine is from previous vintages—15% from the previous year’s harvest and 5% from 2 years before with the wine cellared 3 to 4 years before release. Look for an aromatic nose of citrus, green apple and floral notes then a riveting attack on the palate of a frothy expansive mousse delivering citrus (white grapefruit and lemon), mineral notes and pear. This exhibits delicate balance and an air of elegance, finishing clean and refreshing. It’s a natural as an aperitif and pairs extremely well with pan-seared white fish under a drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

Vintages Release November, 2007
***** drink or cellar
Gosset ‘Celebris 1998’ Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $150.00 (990796)
This outstanding Vintage delivers robust and expressive Champagne without sacrificing elegance or finesse. The blend, chosen from 8 Grand Crus (averaging 95% in the Champagne scale of quality vineyards), is 64% Chardonnay (all from the favoured Côte des Blancs) and 36% Pinot Noir. Fermented partially in cask and kept in small lots, it’s also riddled by hand. Incredibly aromatic, expect a profusion of lifted aromas—lemon blossom, honeycomb and citrus among them. There’s a lively mousse followed by a steady stream of fine bubbles in this medium- to full-bodied gem. The flavours are layered and expressive, look for pineapple, tangy citrus, yellow plum, peaches in syrup and spice. These follow through to the extremely lengthy and well-balanced finish. This is drinking beautifully now and will hold this level of excellence well into 2015. Divine served with oysters or saltwater fish. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Gosset ‘Grand Millésime1999’ Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $89.00 (596973)
An unusual trio of great Champagne vintages occurred in 1998, 1999 and 2000. With ’99 classified ‘warm’, it’s no surprise this fairly explodes with fruity aromas and flavours. The blend is 56% Chardonnay and 44% Pinot Noir and presented in a uniquely-shaped (18th century) and coloured (brown) glass bottle. Expect a cornucopia of aromas—tropical fruit, honey, spice box and orange blossom—followed by flavours of white peach and moderating citrussy notes that are carried along by its medium body and profusion of mousse (frothy bubbles). The finish is lively, refreshing, lengthy and deftly balanced; look for peach, white grapefruit and spice. This is drinking beautifully now and will continue to do so over the next 4 to 5 years. Pair this Vintage offering with sweetbreads, veal medallions or roast pork tenderloin with a dried fruit stuffing. (VH)