by Susan Desjardins
THE WINES
As a part of its centenary celebration, and recognizing the life and work of its founder, the Robert Mondavi Winery hosted a luncheon and tasting at the Fairmont Château Laurier in Ottawa. The tasting was led by Mark de Vere, Director and Master of Wine, who moved to Napa Valley from the U.K. shortly after completing his WSET and Master of Wine certification.
Chef Louis Simard of the Château offered an innovative, intricate series of dishes featuring local produce expertly paired with each wine. The menu is recorded below.
The wines included Robert Mondavi’s signature Napa Valley Fumé Blanc $22.95 (221887) first released in 1968 as an endeavour by Mr. Mondavi to redefine California Sauvignon Blanc from a sweet, unnuanced wine to one endowed with a rich, round texture complemented by a lively, fresh texture. The 2010 vintage served at the tasting certainly hit the mark, displaying beautiful aromas of tropical fruits, lime, a whiff of honeyed floral notes and a touch of nutty toast. The first sip brought out the concentrated fruit and round texture, while the crisp acidity ensured a juicy, finely balanced finish. The wine continued to evolve in the glass, showcasing tantalizing aromas of crème brulée. The Fumé Blanc was followed by the 2010 Napa Valley Chardonnay $25.95 (310409) a fruit-focused wine with attractive aromas of orchard fruit, pineapple and vanilla. Dry, bright and smooth, the wine again featured that fine balance of ripe fruit, well-integrated oak and fresh acidity, finishing with a touch of warmth and candied citrus.
The red wines included the Carneros Pinot Noir 2011, $34.95, but not yet listed in the LCBO, vinified to accent the ripe berry fruit, picked early to retain its freshness, then aged 10 months in French oak. Showcasing luscious cherry/berry fruit aromas, notes of smoke and spice, this is a warm, fleshy Pinot Noir, where the intensely flavoured ripe fruit is again balanced with lively acidity. Dry and spicy, it finishes with a touch of peppery warmth. The 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $34.95 (255513) available to June 23 for $31.95, is inky purple and tantalizingly rich, offering complex aromas of dark fruit, vanilla, licorice, spiced chocolate and a hint of herbs. Blended with a touch of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, Mark described it as a ‘classic Napa Valley Cab’, a well-balanced dry wine with perceptible tannins framing tasty black fruit, replaying the notes of herb and licorice on a finish that offers a whisper of well-integrated oak. The third red wine was the Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009; the 2008 is available in the LCBO $144.95 (670463) produced from fruit harvested from the To Kalon vineyard. Designed for aging yet absolutely fabulous now, this is a deep, powerful wine characterized by plush, ripe black fruit, supple yet well-structured tannins, clean acidity and lovely nuances of spicy floral notes, chocolate, dried herbs and spiced vanilla. A rich, lush, harmonious wine.
The tasting closed with their Moscato d’Oro 2009 $17.95 (687392) currently available for $14.90, a wine with the winery’s classic intensity and depth of flavour, beautifully fragrant and crisp, lovely notes of natural grape juice, fruit salad and honeyed peach are lifted by a gentle touch of spritz. Simply delightful!
THE MENU
Asparagus Salad - charred tomato, home-made ricotta, pickled egg, basil-mint vinaigrette
Smoke Salmon Rillette – grilled baguette, baby arugula
Duck Confit – Ermite blue cheese, brioche crostini, sherry-rhubarb reduction
Cardamom-Mushroom, Rubbed Lamb Sirloin & Aged Strip loin – lima bean cassoulet, red wine jus
Blueberry Goat Cheese Cake