by Vic Harradine — winecurrent.com.

Only half the wine selection of the LCBO reaches retail shelves. The balance is readily available to the general public, but most seasoned wine-lovers (forget the masses) have little idea how easy it is to access them. Only a select few set sail in the uncharted waters of consignment wine. Here's the GPS to help navigate this 'other' distribution channel. It's a whole new stream of interesting wines from the familiar LCBO.

Most wine-lovers easily navigate the LCBO retail store—they make contact with a friendly and wine-savvy Product Consultant, recognize 'hot' Vintages products sell through quickly, are aware there are some good-value wines in the General section, and browse or purchase from the 'Futures' program and Classics Catalogue.

There are over 600 LCBO retail outlets in Ontario. All stores make their selection from the same list; larger stores carry more brands and smaller stores fewer. Consolidation of brands, focused large-quantity purchasing, and lowering inventories help make the LCBO profitable. It's more profitable and easier to manage ten facings of the same wine than one facing for each of ten different wines. There's only so much shelf space; you can't have it both ways.

Wine-friendly restaurants purchase consignment wines because of competition. They can't afford food menus or wine lists similar to others, they must differentiate themselves. One way to do this is by sourcing and offering unique wines; great-tasting and good-value wines, probably not mass produced, that were undiscovered or failed to meet the LCBO's retail buying criteria. These wines are usually from smaller, often family-run wineries. Wine-friendly restaurants include a carefully chosen and generous selection of consignment wines on their wine lists.

Anyone of age can drink and serve friends and dinner guests these same meticulously sourced wines that are not available at any retail LCBO. Stop shopping at the LCBO? Hardly! They release over three thousand fine wines per annum through Vintages alone and have a generous thousand or so wines, depending on the size of the store, always available in the General section. Consignment wine is not an either-or proposition; it's a terrific way to experience new wines and expand wine horizons.

How does it work? Licensed wine agents scour the world—visiting many different countries and their regions, tasting hundreds of wines, meeting with winemakers and owners, getting shoes and pant cuffs muddied in their vineyards—to find unique wines that express individual terroir, taste better than their neighbours', measure up to world-class standards, and at a good-value price. Why do they go to all this trouble? Of course, it's their business, but there's more to it than that.

Ian Campbell, Executive Director of Ontario Imported Wine-Spirit-Beer Association, was kind enough to supply the following information. "In fiscal 2006-07, there were 9,225 products sold through LCBO Consignment Warehouse and Private Ordering - just under half of the LCBO's 18,763 total product listings. There are more than 500 manufacturers' representatives licensed by AGCO in Ontario. There are approximately 130 individuals/agencies active in the LCBO's Consignment program."

Competition is keen and, you'll not meet a successful agent who's not extremely passionate about his/her work. They form bonds with wineries that last for years, often on no more than a handshake. A strange way to do business in today's world, but it's the same at this end. Agents offer personalized consulting and delivery service to their customers in Ontario (restaurateurs and private customers) who buy these wines through them.

'Through them' is the proper term as licensed agents place their orders through the LCBO who, in turn, order the wines from the winery, receive and hold them in bond until the agent places a customer order for release. The LCBO pays the winery once the entire shipment has been sold. These wines generate similar tax revenue as wines sold in LCBO retail stores. They also undergo the same stringent quality assurance testing as those slated for retail stores, but are not subject to sensory evaluation.

It's incredibly simple to access these wines, just log on to the website of a licensed wine agency. Many of them belong to the Ontario Imported Wine-Spirit-Beer Association (www.oiwsba.com) and you can access agencies through links provided on that site. You'll also find a small number of links on the winecurrent site—they're agencies whose wines have been tasted and reviewed in winecurrent.

Where can you learn about or taste consignment wines before purchase? Websites of agents often provide wine critics' reviews. Winecurrent.com often reviews these wines. You can taste consignment wines while attending wine fairs and shows. When enjoying wine in a restaurant, ask the server / Sommelier where the wine was purchased, if via an agent, ask which one. If they don't know, record the name of the winery, pertinent information about the blend, country and vintage date and phone 1-800-ONT-LCBO asking for the agent's name. Contact the agent with the particulars and place an order.

Consignment wines range from $10 a bottle to the sky's the limit, but there's a wide selection in the $18 - $25 range. You can be almost certain they're good value. Restaurateurs hire keen wine tasters and agents must be competitive in their pricing. You'll pay about 12% more than the restaurant - a function of LCBO regulations, not the agent.

Consignment wines are sold by the case, usually twelve bottles, but sometimes six. Most wines will take a year of aging so no need to consume them all quickly. Many divide the case with friends. Often they're purchased for special occasions when a case or more is consumed in a short time. Wine collectors and aficionados have a different challenge; they can't get enough! Cult wines and those that sell out through Vintages in hours may still be available through the agent. Regular clients snap these up.

Each agency manages its delivery system slightly differently, but if you live in a large urban centre you can expect delivery to your home or office a few days after you order. Some agencies ship every business day, all over the province, with customers receiving orders in three days or less. Most take payment by credit card (some by credit card or cheque) and you pay upon delivery. Larger agencies have more than one thousand private customers who buy regularly plus numerous restaurant accounts.

Not surprisingly, the following wines are rated highly and offer good value. The agencies chose these wineries and their wines over hundreds of others, to fill a particular niche in their portfolio. The agency knew they would, eventually, be offering it to discriminating restaurant wine tasters and their sharp buyers who would only purchase fine wine at a good-value price.



Dolce Stefania Malbec 2005
Mendoza $14.65
Rich, involved, balanced to perfection, this combines an explosion of sweet juicy fruit flavour held in check by zesty tang and a focused structure. The lifted nose delivers dark chocolate, mint and cherry aromas The dense and concentrated flavours arrive in wave after wave and include black currant, dark juicy raspberry and spiced black plum. It finishes with fruit and mouth-watering tang. The price-quality ratio is skewed so heavily in your favour this earned its final half star on value plus. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of The Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)



Red Ridge Chardonnay Semillon 2004
Coonawarra $15.19
This Aussie blend (56% Chardonnay, 34% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc) punches well above its price. The alluring and expressive nose delivers billowing aromas of floral, melon and honeyed pit fruit. The layered and zesty flavours include ripe citrus tang, green apple and luscious sweet pineapple on its fully textured and medium-bodied frame. Incredibly well balanced, the lengthy finish is crisp and refreshing. Fabulous sipped on its own, it's perfect with chicken, veal or seafood. Order by the case of 12 for home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)



Clayhouse Vineyards Petite Sirah 2005
Paso Robles $33.15
The perfumed nose offers truffles, tar, spice box and ripe red- and black-berry fruit aromas. The palate-drenching flavours form a steady stream of Montmorency cherry, dried and crushed cranberry, and kirsch liqueur. It's deftly balanced, well structured and layers on black plum and black pepper aromas and flavours—primarily from the 24% Syrah—on the lingering fully textured finish. Forty-year-old vines produced this gem. Order by the case for home or office delivery via e-mail from Aaron Shaw This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)


Halstead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Central Coast $17.75
Hugely extracted and concentrated, expect big things from this big blend—Cabernet Sauvignon 80%, Petit Verdot 12%, Tempranillo 7%. (I know, but it's not my math) Expect a cornucopia of aromas and flavours that include chocolate-covered cherries, zesty cranberry and kirsch liqueur. These dramatic flavours are supported by medium- to full-bodied weight, a supple texture and wonderful ultrafine tannin for structure. The lingering finish delivers more of the same along with some mint and good moderating zest for balance. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of The Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)


McManis Family Vineyards Viognier 2006
California $19.85
Nectarine, honey and melon aromas billow from the glass of this unctuous gem. It's well balanced, medium bodied and delivers its rich flavours of honeyed tree fruit—ripe pear, yellow peach and juicy nectarine—with a gorgeous, almost oily texture. It finishes clean and flavourful with notes of apple compote with a hint of spiced lemon. Pair with pan-seared scallops or grilled prawn kebabs. For delivery to your home or office by the case in Eastern Ontario, e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and elsewhere in Ontario via www.robgroh.com. (VH)


Tin Roof Syrah-Cabernet 2005
California $16.15
Seventy-five percent Syrah, you'll find this offers tremendous value with the price-quality balance tipped in your favour. Smooth as silk and round n' ready to drink, look for harmonious and compact aromas and flavours of freshly picked red cherry and spice-infused black Damson plum. There's just a hint of sweet oak (aged only two months in a blend of French and American) in the wave of rich fruit flavours on the lengthy finish. For delivery to your home or office by the case in Eastern Ontario, e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and elsewhere in Ontario via www.robgroh.com. (VH)


Wayne Gretzky Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $45.19
This is seriously good wine from a fabulous vintage; drink now to 2012. Expressive aromas of minty chocolate, black briary berry and spice box rip from the glass of this medium-bodied richly textured gem. Layered and concentrated flavours abound, espresso roast, cassis and dark juicy cherry among them. The finish lingers with well-balanced tang and fruit flavours. It's a Great One to pair with medium-rare grilled strip loin. Order by the case from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. in the Ottawa area and from Hobbs and Company Wine Merchants elsewhere for home or office delivery. (VH)



Viña La Rosa Carmènere 2005
DO Cachapoal $19.19
This bistro-styled red really struts its stuff when paired with spicy and tomato-based food, meat-laden pizza and spaghetti Bolognese, for example. Cedar, mint and gamey on the nose, you'll find a mélange of tang and zest on the palate with red cherry and black plum to the fore. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it finishes with well-balanced and lingering flavours of kirsch liqueur and perfumed spice box. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)



Château de Montmirail 'Cuvée des Deux Frères' 2004
AOC Vacqueyras $27.64
This is a rich and expressive GSM blend (predominantly Grenache Noir, plus Syrah and a touch of Mourvèdre) that displays deft balance and lip-smacking tang—both providing opportunity for food pairing. The sweet warm flavours (14.5% alcohol) are layered and persistent with cassis and spicy red cherry to the fore. The medium length aftertaste layers on yet more spice and finishes dry and zesty. Pair this with hearty fare, like curried lamb, steak tartare or pepper steak. Order by the case from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. in the Ottawa area and from Hobbs and Company Wine Merchants elsewhere for home or office delivery. (VH)


François Lichtle Pinot Blanc 2005
AOC Alsace $18.42
Mineral and floral aromas plus nuances of hay drift off this gorgeously-textured beauty. The explosion of heady flavours that bathe the palate includes ginger-infused white grapefruit, spice, ripe lemon zest and white peach. It's medium bodied and sports a texture that's creamy and smooth as silk. Medium to full bodied with a crisp and refreshing finish, you'll want to pair this seafood—try spicy blackened fish. Order by the case from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. in the Ottawa area and from Hobbs and Company Wine Merchants elsewhere for home or office delivery. (VH)



La Monacessa Verdicchio 2006
DOC Verdicchio di Matelica $22.35
You may have experienced Verdicchio, but probably not from this tiny appellation or of this quality. Animated aromas of mineral, spice and floral nuances billow from this fully textured pearl. Concentrated and involved flavours of sage, green apple and honeyed pear are underpinned by a focused spine of moderating ripe citrus acidity. There's a crisp and refreshing finish making this the perfect partner with seafood, especially shellfish. Pour alongside mussels steamed in this white wine. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of  The Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)


La Torraccio di Presura 'Il Tarocco' Chianti Classico 2005
DOCG Chianti Classico $ 35.85
The alluring nose is very involved and complex, look for the following aromas—spice box, licorice, tar and hints of earthiness and smoked meat. The flavour on the palate is vibrant and focused with sour cherry and red currant to the fore. Medium bodied and medium in texture, this delivers a mouth-watering and lengthy finish of zest and tang plus compatible red cherry fruit flavours. Pair this with chicken cacciatore or lamb tagine. For delivery to your home or office by the case in Eastern Ontario, e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and elsewhere in Ontario via www.robgroh.com. (VH)



Staete Landt Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough $26.70
Intensely perfumed and richly concentrated, this is in a class of its own. Gooseberry and pungent herbaceous aromas segue scintillating flavours of zesty ripe citrus, white peach and ginger-infused lime. It's crisp and fully textured with a lengthy finish that's mouth-watering and lip-smacking good. A treat sipped on its own, it certainly has the balance, depth and oomph to pair with food. Try breaded calamari rings or pan-seared scallops. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)



Fita Preta Vinhos 'Sexy' 2005
Alentejo $22.45 - 750 mL / $15.95 - 375 mL
This unique blend (50% Touriga Nacional, 25% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah) was made by two young Turks—one a fabulous wine maker and the other a renowned viticulturist. Premium fruit selection, indigenous yeast fermentation and 20 days maceration helped fashion this fabulous gem. The dramatic nose and ripe, juicy flavours include briary berry, cassis, racy cranberry and wisps of oak. It's fully textured with perceptible tannin and a lingering zesty finish. Drink now to 2014. Order by the case for home or office delivery via e-mail from Aaron Shaw This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)



Bodegas Hermanos Peciña Crianza 2000
DOC Rioja $24.95
Organically farmed forty-plus-year-old vines and three years in seasoned French and American oak have fashioned this unfiltered blend (95% Tempranillo with a titch of Garnacha and Graciano) into a tour de force in vine and wine management. Expressive aromas of dark berry fruit, leather and spice box segue rich and concentrated flavours of black currant and Bing cherry that wash over the palate in waves. Medium to full bodied and nicely textured; look for a well-balanced finish with good moderating acidity. Order by the case for home or office delivery via e-mail from Aaron Shaw This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)