Jim Barry Wines—on the winery’s 60th anniversary—captured the prestigious 2020 Halliday Wine Companion, ‘Winery of the Year Award’!

Clare Valley, South Australia

The Clare Valley is a cooler-climate Geographical Indication (GI) wine region in the state of South Australia north of Adelaide. It’s marked by a Mediterranean-like climate with afternoon sea breezes, an exceptionally wide diurnal temperature variation and lengthy hang time for fruit on the vine. Some of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz vines in the world survive here along with numerous 4th, 5th and even 6th generation family-owned growers and wineries. The primary white grape planting is Riesling—with Clare considered its Australian home—along with Chardonnay and others. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz are the two most popular red plantings along with others including some very old Grenache vines.

Vines at Jim Barry

Winecurrent continues visits to exceptional family-owned wineries in premium Australia wine regions with an eclectic tasting of a stellar line up of Jim Barry wines. One thing that marks all top-notch wineries is their generous price-quality balance at virtually every price point and Jim Barry is no exception. They are also members of the über-exclusive—only 11 members—‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’. The stringent criteria dictates the very limited membership. The Jim Barry, ‘The Armagh’, is found in the top tier ‘Exceptional’ category of the top 22 Australian wines of the acclaimed Langton’s Classification of Australian fine wines.

Peter Barry and daughter Olivia
Photo: Peter Barry and daughter, Olivia (BTW Olivia’s hand is behind her Dad’s glass, not in it!)

Jim Barry Wines has been producing internationally acclaimed wine for 60 years, the late Jim Barry was a pioneer in Australian wine, graduating from the acclaimed Roseworthy Agricultural College as just the 17th recipient of a diploma and later becoming the first diploma winemaker in the Clare Valley. Their second son Peter (above), also a Roseworthy grad, is now at the winery helm. In 2010, Peter’s eldest son, Tom, made Jim Barry wines the first Australian winery to have three generations graduating from the same course of studies at Roseworthy.

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: October 3, 2020

93drink or cellar
Jim Barry Wines ‘The Barry Bros.’ Shiraz 2017
South Australia $19.95 (16036) 14.0% alcohol
Black bramble berry fruit aromas—raspberry and blackberry—intertwine with violet and red cherry on the nose of this medium-plus weight, gorgeously textured, value-infused shiraz. It flows over the palate with a lovely wash of delicious flavours—black plum compote and grilled herbs interwoven with excellent tang and acidity and a balanced and beautiful finish, all underpinned with soft, ripe tannin. Drink now or cellar short term pouring with well-trimmed, slow- and low-cooked lamb shoulder. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: November 28, 2020

  • The following 2017 Jim Barry Wines ‘The Cover Drive’ Cabernet Sauvignon matured 12 months in 50% American and 50% French oak barrels.

93drink or cellar
Jim Barry Wines ‘The Cover Drive’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
Clare Valley, South Australia $19.95 (677476) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit mingle with mixed spice and sprigs of savoury herbs. It blankets the palate with juicy flavours of black plum compote and cassis mingling with black cherry, licorice and a balancing dollop of red currant tang and acidity. It’s value-laden and creamy smooth with good mouthfeel and good structure from ripe tannin. This showcases persistent purity of fruit and a lengthy, luxurious finish and aftertaste. It’s good to go now and on to 2025. Pour alongside grilled backyard burgers, steak or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBD

White Wine

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Jim Barry Wines ‘Watervale’ Riesling 2019
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of lime and piquant spice notes leap from the glass preceding a gusher of palate flavours with tropical fruit—mango and pineapple—and pit fruit—nectarine and yellow plum—to the fore. This is incredible value and was sourced from older vines averaging forty years or more contributing to the persistent purity of fruit, deft balance and delectable flavour. This is medium bodied with creamy-smooth texture and lingering and luscious, mouth-watering finish. Pour alongside mussels steamed in garlic, leeks and white wine. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar
Jim Barry Wines ‘The Lodge Hill’ Riesling 2019
Clare Valley, South Australia $21.95 12.5% alcohol
This is the 46th vintage for The Lodge Hill Riesling. Aromas of lemon-lime, floral notes and piquant spice give way to a surge of palate flavours including tang-laden lime bolstered by spicy ginger root and chalky minerality. It’s medium weight with silky mouthfeel and a lengthy crisp and refreshing finish that’s infused with citrus, mineral notes and lip-smacking tang. Versatile at the table, give grilled or pan-seared seafood a try or oysters, sushi, or ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

  • There are now a substantial amount of Assyrtiko vines planted in the Clare, all by Jim Barry Wines, following a 2006 visit to the Greek island of Santorini by Sue and Peter Barry. Most vines are trellised, but a few have been, and continue to be formed as they would in Santorini—in concentric rings—aka, ‘kouloura’ method—with grape bunches concentrated in the middle protected from the extremely windy conditions and shadowed by the leaf canopy above from the hot, arid conditions on Santorini. Peter Barry was impressed with the dryness of the wines and pH level when tasted and was cognizant of climate change. He postulated the Clare Valley one day could be faced with conditions not unlike this Greek island. See photo below.

Assyrtiko vines on Santorini
Photo: Assyrtiko vines on Santorini

91drink or cellar
Jim Barry Wines Assyrtiko 2019
Clare Valley, South Australia $29.95 12.0% alcohol
Good now, though bottled not long ago, it will improve with careful cellaring; give it a go in early 2021. A quiet nose of straw and floral notes gives way to a scintillating line of nerve and verve with plenty of flavour and tension throughout. Racy lime zest and minerality streak over the palate along with pit fruit—yellow peach and Greengage plum—and delightful tanginess from off the hop to the last drop. This is medium weight with good mouthfeel and a clean, crisp, refreshing finish and aftertaste decorated with hints of saline minerality. Pour with fried or grilled Halloumi cheese decorated with fresh tomato slices, fresh basil leaves and dribbles of balsamic vinegar. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

92drink or cellar
Jim Barry Wines ‘The Barry Bros.’ Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
South Australia $19.95 (16036) 14.0% alcohol
This particular blend of grapes is popular in Australia: pick up a few bottles to learn why. Punching well over its price, it’s packed with value. Ripe black and red fruit aromas mingle with earthy notes, cedar and mocha. This is medium-full bodied with excellent mouthfeel, firm tannin underpinning, balanced and delicious. A gorgeous palate-bathing wash of black currant, cassis and notions of dark bittersweet chocolate persist into the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste while picking up plenty of pizzazz and tang along the way. (Vic Harradine)

  • The following 2017 Jim Barry Wines ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz was sourced from low-yielding shiraz vines grown on soils of rich loam over near-vertical sheets of rock. The now soil-filled passageways allow vine roots to work their way down to water from this nature-induced drainage system.

94drink or cellar
Jim Barry Wines ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz 2017
Clare Valley, South Australia $21.95 (998476) 13.9% alcohol
This is an absolutely stunning premium shiraz with a price-quality balance tipped wildly in your favour. Aromas of mixed savoury herbs and baking spice interweave with dark berry fruit and hints of vanilla on the nose of this full-bodied, fully textured gem. It envelops the palate with a balanced, complex and delectable gusher of bramble berry and kirsch liqueur juxtaposed by tangy red currant and passionfruit cloaked in a firm, ripe tannin structure. The lingering, luscious finish and aftertaste replay palate flavours. Drink now and on to 2027. (Vic Harradine)

Classics Catalogue: TBD

96drink or cellar
Jim Barry Wines ‘The McRae Wood’ Shiraz 2015
Clare Valley, South Australia $54.95 14.0% alcohol
Ripe and luscious aromas of dark berry fruit decorated with notes of mocha, floral and savoury spice and herbs abound on the nose of this 100% estate-grown shiraz sourced from their flagship vineyard. It’s powerful and elegant throughout with palate flavours of black plum compote and ripe black cherry mingling with racy red currant providing balance while underpinned by ripe tannin. There’s more in store as the sweet fruit and racy tang persist and provide a monumentally long finish. It’s delicious now and will provide delectable enjoyment over the next 10 or 12 years; better to drink wine two years too early rather than two months too late. (Vic Harradine)

98drink or cellar
Jim Barry Wines ‘The Armagh’ Shiraz 2015
Clare Valley, South Australia $399.00 (424077) 14.0% alcohol
An involved nose of eucalyptus, savoury herbs, ripe dark cherry/berry fruit and pencil shaving aromas provides segue to an incredibly smooth and mellow, full-bodied river of palate flavours with racy pie cherry melding with black raspberry, licorice notes and cassis. This showcases a firm tannin underpinning, persistent purity of fruit, balance, complexity, depth and a lengthy finish and aftertaste. It’s absolutely delicious and required strict discipline in order to spit. Drink now to 2030. (Vic Harradine)