Winecurrent
May 25, 2016 Newsletter

LCBOAs was reported in the Ontario Budget earlier this year, it’s expected the LCBO will announce a number of new initiatives and options for customers via a newly designed e-commerce site. It’s to include expanded ordering of wines online and having them delivered to an LCBO retail store of your choosing, even to your door. Keeley Rogers, the LCBO’s Media Relations Coordinator advised, ‘The LCBO’s e-commerce initiative is currently in the testing stage. We are looking forward to announcing more information this summer.’ Read budget excerpt here.

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Exceptional-value wine Exceptional Value! – 7 of 80 wines reviewed meet strict quality-price guidelines and are found throughout the newsletter. What strict quality-price guidelines? Click here.
  • 5-star Wine – Three wines rang the 5-star bell: Masi ‘Costasera Riserva’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2009 found under Feature: Veneto, Italy; Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 found under Feature: Judgment of Paris; Featherstone ‘Joy - Premium Cuvée’ Sparkling Wine 2012 found under New in Ontario wineries.
  • Susan Selects – 13th Street ‘June’s Vineyard’ Riesling 2013 with 4 ½ stars @ $19.95 and Flat Rock ‘Unplugged’ Chardonnay 2014 with 4 stars @ $16.95 both under Ontario White Wine; Borsao ‘Tres Picos’ Garnacha 2014 with 4 ½ stars @ $19.95 under Spain: Red Wine; Ara Pathway Pinot Noir 2013 with 4 stars @ $16.95 found under New in the LCBO.
  • Lisa Likes - Babich Sauvignon Blanc 2015 with 4 stars @ $15.95 under New in the LCBO.
  • Vic Picks – Belcanto Di Bellussi Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene Superiore Non-Vintage with 4 stars @ $19.95 under Feature: Veneto, Italy; Fielding Pinot Gris 2014 with 4½ stars @ $21.95 found under Ontario: White Wine; William Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 with 4½ stars @ $21.95 found under California: Red Wine; Kacaba Cabernet Franc 2014 with 4½ stars @ $24.95 found under Ontario: White Wine .

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (not Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: May 28, 2016

Feature: Wine from Veneto, Italy

**** drink now
Belcanto Di Bellussi Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene Superiore Non-Vintage

DOCG Valdobbiadene $18.95 (53215) 11.5% alcohol

This is crisp, clean and refreshing with notes of minerality and lemon acidity streaking across the palate preceded by a quiet nose of crisp green apple and minerality. There’s a solid line of acidity throughout with lime and pineapple peeking through on the finish. A lovely welcoming wine or serve with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Pieropan Soave Classico 2014
DOC Soave Classico $17.95 (946848) 12.0% alcohol
A classic expression of delectable Soave at an exceptional price, it delivers a gorgeous gusher of ripe orchard fruit—pear, peach, apple—beautifully adorned with soft citrus flavours and good acidity finishing clean, crisp and refreshing. Very nice sipped on its own, it also shines with grilled fish and seafood, especially steamed mussels in white wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Sartori ‘L’Appasione’ 2013
IGT Delle Venezie Rosso $17.95 (451716) 13.0% alcohol
This is smooth and mellow from cork pop to last drop showcasing deft balance, ripe juicy dark fruit, and a luscious finish to match. It’s an easy-drinking red that’ll please just about anyone who enjoys red wine, with or without food. Full fruited—black Bing cherry and lively black currant—with good depth and generous mouthfeel, it finishes with more of the same plus toasty notes and baking spice. Pairs and pours well with grilled red meat, gourmet sausage or burgers. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Tomassi ‘Rafaèl’ Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2013
DOC Valpolicella Classico $18.95 (23259) 12.5% alcohol
Sandalwood and exotic spice on the nose, this dishes up a tangy, palate-bathing stream of pie cherry and racy red currant nicely balanced with riper dark berry fruit. The pure fruit flavours and acidity persist through the dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Giuseppe Campagnola Ripasso was fermented in the traditional method with hand-harvested fruit sourced from 80% Corvina/Corvinone and 20% Rondinella grapes fermented and kept in tank until the following February when a second fermentation took place on the pomace—think of grape skins, seeds and a bit of the juice—of the just completed fermentation of Amarone and Recioto wine at that time. Being ‘passed over’ the skins of these two wine styles leads to: more depth of flavour, weight and texture, and the name Ripasso. This was then aged a further 12 months in large, seasoned—largely inert—oak barrels before bottling and ageing a further four months before release.

**** drink or cellar
Giuseppe Campagnola Ripasso Della Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2014
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $19.95 (313486) 13.5% alcohol
Lovely aromas of cherry/berry fruit, spice and sandalwood herald a lively fresh stream of tang-laden sour cherry and cranberry streaking across the palate infusing the dry, racy finish. This is medium bodied and nicely textured pairing exceptionally well with appetizers and mains with good tomato acidity like lasagna, pasta puttanesca, pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Cantine Di Ora Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2013
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $22.95 (451666) 14.5% alcohol
Fig, black plum compote and hints of raisin aromas precede a river of pie cherry and passion fruit that’s quite racy and tang-laden on entry somewhat balancing out with riper, softer, almost-cooked, dark berry fruit on the back palate and aftertaste. There’s also an underpinning of still-evolving tannin that can be somewhat ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Provolo ‘Campotorbian’ Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2011
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $19.95 (974402) 14.0% alcohol
This is terrific Ripasso at a very good price—a top pick. A blend of indigenous grapes from the Veneto—60% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 15% Corvinone—it spent 24 months in oak and another six in bottle before release. It opens with lively aromas of campfire smoke, cedar and dark berry fruit. A silky-smooth wash of ripe, dark fruit—currant, mulberry and cherry—mingle with grilled herbs, piquant spice and bittersweet chocolate. It finishes fruit-driven, lengthy and sporting espresso roast and notions of black licorice on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Masi ‘Costasera Riserva’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2009

DOC Valpolicella $69.95 (324137) 15.5% alcohol

Produced from Valpolicella Classico’s indigenous, holy trinity of grapes—Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara—this Riserva is also blessed by the unique Oseleta varietal, rediscovered by Masi. It bustles from the glass with floral and toasty notes mingling with espresso roast, dark cherry and black plum. Luscious rich flavours coat the palate—black Bing cherry, dried currant, fig and raisin—followed by a lingering finish layering on dried berry fruit, bittersweet chocolate and the tell-tale Amarone bite on the aftertaste—soft, fine-grained tannin adds structure to this magnificent red. (Vic Harradine)

Feature: The 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting

• The Judgment of Paris tasting has been somewhat replicated many times over the forty years since 1976 and the original tasting in Paris with varying vintages and with fairly similar results. It was, and is, so important to California as it marked the first time many, including most Californians, thought of winning a competition of this sort. The late, great Robert Mondavi became the Ambassador for California wine setting out simply hoping to produce world-class Napa wines. His dream was to make wine as good as the French, which the French overwhelmingly thought—and may still think—preposterous, as did most from California at the time, chastising and mocking him at the time for setting an impossible goal. However, tasted blind with French judges, California wines not only won, but almost all of their wines showed extremely well. The rest, as they say, is history. But that was then and this is now; tasting reviews follow in this feature for recent vintages of California wineries involved in the original 1976 tasting with Grgich Hills Estate being the exception. Mike Grgich was the winemaker at Chateau Montelena and made their 1973 Chardonnay judged as the best white wine in the original tasting. The Grgich winery was formed a year later than the tasting, in 1977… and he’s still involved.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2014
Napa Valley $75.95 (701748) 13.5% alcohol
This is crisp and refreshing with persistent fruit and a lip-smacking, tang-laden finish and aftertaste. Floral notes, rosewood and spice waft from the nose of this medium-full bodied, nicely textured Chardonnay. It bathes the palate with lively flavours of crisp green apple balanced with ripe, juicy pear and peach garnished with soft citrus that turns into racy lemon tang and grapefruit pith on the finish and aftertaste. This will repay patience and more time in bottle allowing to knit and develop further. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars ‘Artemis’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Napa Valley $69.95 (708982) 14.5% alcohol

Wood smoke, rich berry fruit and sweet vanilla waft from this full-bodied, fully textured Artemis. A tang-laced stream of sour cherry and black berry is interwoven with briary berry, piquant spice and toasty oak. The extended aftertaste is mouth-wateringly good introducing ripe, fine-grained tannin that’s easily ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

I have it on good authority wine improves with age, “No man also having drunk old wine straightway desireth new: for he saith, The old is better” (Luke: 5:39)—sourced courtesy of Grgich website.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2013
Napa Valley $67.95 (346304) 14.1% alcohol
Chardonnays of this ilk are built to last and, like many reds, need time in bottle to come together and develop cohesiveness, complexity, depth of flavour and integrate the oak. Baking spice and oaky notes on the nose, this delivers overt flavours of ripe pear, apple and oak along with tang-laden citrus on the palate and finish. It’s full bodied with generous mouthfeel and will reward patience, pop corks 2020. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Napa Valley $54.95 (904532) 14.5% alcohol
Mellow aromas of berry fruit and spice introduce this structured, tang-infused, full-bodied Cab. A wash of piquant spice, red berry fruit robed in luscious, rich black berry and juicy Bing cherry and a solid line of good acidity persist over the palate and through the dry, mouth-watering finish. They’re joined by mocha, cassis and oaky notes on the lengthy aftertaste. This is drinking now after a three-hour aeration/decant—better in 2018—and has miles to go after that. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Napa Valley $59.95 (325779) 14.1% alcohol
Tar, smoke, pencil shavings and black licorice herald a powerful, stunning surge of black currant, mixed spice, charred toast and hints of mint that coat the palate with great élan. This is complex with depth and persistent pure fruit flavour. It’s full bodied with good texture and perceptible tannin providing good bones—pop corks 2020 and on for the next decade. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Heitz Cellar Chardonnay 2014
Napa Valley $49.95 (205500) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic spice, sandalwood and pear aromas introduce a terrific tang-laden tsunami wave of palate-coating grilled pineapple and creamy lemon yoghurt mingling with crispy apple and toasty notes with all persisting through the dry, mouth-watering finish. It’s full bodied with excellent mouthfeel, good depth and complexity and oodles of charm. It’s good to go now and on 2022. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Jackson-Triggs ‘Entourage Grand Reserve Brut’ 2011

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (234161) 12.5% alcohol

This much be-medaled beauty is Pinot Noir dominant, made in the method of Champagne with a price-quality balance that tips well in your favour. A subdued nose of floral and citrus notes portend a smooth flow of firm and focused flavour with apple, ripe pear and white nectarine to the fore. It’s well balanced with good texture and a zippy, refreshing finish. Pour alongside roast chicken, turkey or pork. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
13th Street ‘June’s Vineyard’ Rieslng 2013
VQA Creek Shores $19.95 (147512) 12.5% alcohol
Showcasing lifted aromas of tangy spice, white flowers, citrus and mineral, this classy Riesling, technically off-dry and mid-weight, brings the zing of fresh grated ginger to citrusy flavours of lime and grapefruit pith, underlined by clean minerality and zippy acidity. Showing refined balance and zest on the lengthy finish, it’s a great value. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Cave Spring ‘CSV’ Riesling 2013
VQA Beamsville Bench $29.95 (566026) 11.0% alcohol
Produced from fruit harvested from the estate’s old vines, this straw-hued gem displays finely focused aromas of citrus, stone fruit and mineral. Dry, light-mid weight, there’s purity and consistency on the succulent palate, lemon-lime, grapefruit and mineral dominating, a touch of yellow plum rounding out the palate. The tangy fruit is highlighted by the lively backbone of vibrant acidity. Showing poise and great length, you’ll enjoy this with seafood and summer salads with a lemony dressing this year, and for many to come. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink now Oh Canada!
Fielding Pinot Gris 2014

VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (251108) 12.5% alcohol

Winemaker Richie Roberts crafted yet another cool-climate beauty in this, a challenging vintage. Floral, piquant spice, honeydew melon and orchard fruit aromas herald a palate-bathing wash of juicy, fresh fruit flavours—green apple, poached pear, Key lime and lemony tang. It broadens out on the back palate with softer pit fruit—peach and yellow plum. It’s medium weight with good texture and deft balance unfolding into a crisp and lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Flat Rock ‘Unplugged’ Chardonnay 2014

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (68015) 12.5% alcohol

This unoaked Chardonnay is a winner with clean aromas of tree fruit, citrus and mineral notes finding their way seamlessly to the palate along with vivacious texture and notions of grapefruit pith and lemon zest. It’s vibrant and stylish with lots of verve and a nice long refreshing finish. This is a go-to white for seafood, fish and white meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Fielding Estate ‘Red Conception’ 2013 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (189183) 13.0% alcohol

This blend of separately vinified Cabernets/Syrah/Merlot offers enticing notes of sweet vanilla, spice, cocoa and cedar, ripe berries and plum. There’s good structure to this; it’s medium-bodied with supple tannin underpinning ripe fruit and well-integrated notes of oak. There’s lively texture complementing tasty flavours of black plum, cherry and raspberry. Notes of spice, pepper and hints of cocoa and toasty oak round out the lengthy, dry finish. Enjoy this well-crafted, approachable wine with grilled meats and vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Megalomaniac ‘Bigmouth’ Merlot 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (67645) 13.5% alcohol
Wispy notes of smoked meat, earthy mineral aromas, and the scent of dried cherries, prunes and plum drift from the glass. Round and smooth, this medium-full bodied Merlot replays the smoky meaty quality on the palate, married to black cherry and plum. Exhibiting a subtle, underlying freshness of texture, it finishes smooth and savoury with a light hint of spice. Serve it with braised short ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Tawse Winery ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (130989) 13.0% alcohol

Winemaker Paul Pender took the heartbreak grape from a heartbreak vintage and fashioned a top-drawer red—a tip of the hat to Paul. Roasted herbs, cola and black plum aromas announce a nicely balanced, light-medium weight and well-textured river of passion fruit, blueberry and savoury herbs with wisps of strawberry jam. The pristine purity of fruit persists through the savoury-infused, lengthy finish and aftertaste—a thing of beauty. (Vic Harradine)

****drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Thirty Bench Red 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.20 (320986) 13.1% alcohol

Charred toast, cola and dark berry fruit aromas herald a mid-full bodied, firm and focused surge of bright, juicy red currant and passion fruit interlaced with softer mulberry and sweet vanilla. It has solid construction, good balance and no shortage of charm. The lingering finish is dry with wisps of tannin throughout. Aerate/decant this for two to three hours pouring alongside osso bucco or hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Megalomaniac ‘Pink Slip’ Rosé 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (85126) 12.0% alcohol
Flashy neon pink, the aromas of strawberry jam and macerated cherries lull you into thinking sweet, but this blend of Riesling and Merlot sparkles with freshness. Just off-dry, with a vibrant texture due to the well-honed blade of keen acidity, the accent is on sour cherry and red currant flavours. Bright, clean and refreshing, you’ll enjoy this well chilled as you relax in your Muskoka chair! (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Peninsula Ridge ‘Beal Vineyard’ Cabernet Rosé 2015
VQA Beamsville Bench $13.95 (177840) 13.5% alcohol
A lovely deep rose hue, produced from Cabernet Franc, this offers tempting sweet fruit aromas and flavours—raspberry, red currant jelly and watermelon—infused with a nuance of red pepper jelly. Dry, light-mid weight, with a piquant texture and a lively, lasting, fresh finish, this wine will pair well with salads or pizza. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cannonball Chardonnay 2014
Sonoma County $23.95 (311563) 13.7% alcohol
Aromas of floral notes, apple and pear abound on this medium-full bodied, fully textured gem. It’s rich, ripe and luscious unleashing a river of full-fruited ambrosia with ripe juicy yellow peach, pear and yellow plum to the fore. The lingering finish dishes up more of the same decorated with tangy citrus and wisps of sweet vanilla. Delicious on its own, it pours well with chicken, pork or veal. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: White Wine

**** drink now
Chateau Ste. Michelle 'Columbia Valley' Chardonnay 2014
Columbia Valley $20.95 (232439) 14.0% alcohol
Blending toasted nut and buttered popcorn with ripe orchard fruit and citrus, this is a nicely balanced mid-weight white. Dry, with a fresh yet creamy texture, the flavours of pear and Honey Crisp apple mingle with notes of grilled toast and hints of vanilla and spice. Round through the finish, it shows good balance, as well as good length on the clean finish. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
William Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
North Coast $21.95 (453647) 15.2%% alcohol
This gorgeous, Wine of the Month, Cali Cab is sourced from 90% Cabernet Sauvignon fruit—100% Napa Valley fruit—along with splashes of Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Franc. This is an easy-drinking, smooth and mellow red. Rich and luscious dark berry fruit, kirsch liqueur and ripe black cherry bathe the palate infusing the lingering finish. It’s mid-full weight with good mouthfeel, balance and oodles of charm. Pair with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

**** drink now
Finca el Origen ‘Estate Reserva’ Torrontès 2015
Salta $15.95 (262089) 14.0% alcohol
Produced in the cool high-altitude vineyards of northern Argentina, this expressive wine offers enticing aromas of honeysuckle and orange blossom, citrus, tropical and stone fruit. Dry medium bodied, it’s tangy and vibrant, fragrant with lush fruit—pineapple, peach and tangerine to the fore—yet balanced by a good underlying seam of clean acidity. There’s an elusive peppery note to the lasting finish. Enjoy with roast chicken or curried shrimp. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Santa Írene ‘Organic’ Bonarda 2015
Mendoza $16.95 (450148) 13.5% alcohol
This is balanced and beautiful showcasing ripe fruit, good acidity and structure. Delicate aromas of rose petals and berry fruit open this hand-harvested, organically certified red. Ripe, juicy Bing cherry adorned with piquant spice and kirsch liqueur bathe the palate infusing the smooth and mellow lengthy aftertaste. Pour with a mixed grill—lamb chops, beef tenderloin and Portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Ventisquero ‘Queulat Gran Reserva’ Single Vineyard Carmenère 2012
Maipo Valley $15.95 (243386) 14.0% alcohol
Savoury aromas of capsicum and cracked pepper layer on smoke and bitter chocolate, black and red berry. Velvety yet fresh in texture, characterized by defined yet supple tannins, this medium-full bodied wine is true to its savoury core, the flavours of smoky roasted peppers overlaid on mixed berries. While showing good balance, the flavours don’t linger on the palate. A well-priced wine for simple barbeques. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Chardonnay 2014
Margaret River, Western Australia $18.95 (350900) 13.0% alcohol
This is an excellent Chardonnay. It’s full fruited with juicy flavour and sitting firmly in the ‘Wow!’ category. Margaret River fruit was sourced from premium sites and aged only briefly in oak barrel, 20% new. Mixed spice, mineral notes and tropical fruit aromas herald a gorgeous, balanced river of ripe juicy nectarine, pear and lemon curd, medium-full bodied and generously textured. It finishes dry, clean and refreshing while retaining all those wonderful fruit flavours and tang. There’s terrific value here. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Sister’s Run ‘Epiphany’ Shiraz 2014
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (269464) 14.5% alcohol
Robust aromas of spice, black cherry and jammy dark berries leap from the glass. A full-fruited river of sweet, ripe fruit coats the palate with a surge of ripe, sweet mulberry, black Bing cherry and black currant preserve. It full bodied and densely packed with sweet, black fruit from cork pop to last drop. Pour with smoked, grilled back ribs mopped with spicy hot sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Forrest ‘The Doctors’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough $19.95 (317842) 9.0% alcohol
The clean aromas of gooseberry married to notions of canned beans and asparagus herald mouth-cleansing, pungent flavours of passionfruit, gooseberry and fresh herbs. Dry, light-mid weight, the bright, lively acidity gives great freshness to the wine, preparing the palate for the bracing finish and somewhat pithy aftertaste. Serve with veal al limone or pan-fried pickerel. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2014
Marlborough $19.95 (590414) 14.0% alcohol
Reflecting a warm vintage, gently aged six months in French oak, this transparent ruby wine whispers a floral note, hints at earthy beet and delights with aromas of cherry and berry. The ripe savoury fruit offers depth and character, the gentle tannins and fine acidity deliver a refined structure, while the well-integrated oak finds expression in notes of sweet baking spice and light toast. Finishing with the warmth of a dash of white pepper, this consistently well-made wine is a real crowd pleaser. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Rosé Wine

**** drink now
Saint Clair Family Estate ‘Premium’ Pinot Gris Rosé 2015
Marlborough $16.95 (451740) 13.0% alcohol
Transparent salmon, there’s a subtle hint of pear on the nose, mingling with aromas of red field berries and a whiff of citrus. Like satin on the palate, the wine offers mouth-watering strawberry, raspberry and red currant flavours, the hint of pear replaying, the lively acidity offering great poise. There’s a pleasant touch of pithiness on the clean, dry, fruity finish. Let this wine be your partner on the deck and patio, or serve it with prosciutto with mozzarella and sliced pears. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Avondale ‘Jonty’s Ducks’ Pekin Red 2011
WO Paarl $14.95 (383547) 14.0% alcohol
This inky blend of Shiraz with Bordeaux varieties shows tarry, earthy qualities that express themselves in the hint of olive that mingles with notes of dark chocolate and black plum. Mid-weight, this unique red blend is loaded with ripe dark fruit flavours accented with charry toast, spice and dried herbs. Its smooth texture, clean acidity and supple tannins make it an approachable, easy-drinking wine that will pair well with grilled or smoked meats. (Susan Desjardins)

• KWV (Kooperatiewe Wijnbouwers Vereeniging – Cooperative Wine Farmers Association) launched the ‘Mentor’ brand a few short years ago showcasing what meticulous fruit management—the correct varietal matched to optimum terroir at the proper yield—along with stringent winery practices—100% ‘quality control’ of winery and barrel regimen and ‘intervention only when necessary’—can do to produce premium South African wine. KWV’s Chief Winemaker, Richard Rowe, an earnest, engaging Australian, shared this with winecurrent during a 2012 visit, “You can taste a marked stylistic evolution in our wines over the last four or five vintages and we’re not nearly finished. I’m unashamedly a ‘new world’ winemaker, making wine that can be benchmarked alongside what the best wine regions in the world have on offer—our wines are modern, clean, stylish and refreshing with some reaching elegance—we value structure and concentration. We’re backing off our winemaking intervention, especially with oak, allowing the terroir, meticulous vine management practices and the fruit to have more of a voice. We're pretty happy with where we are and know we're going to continue getting better.” If you want to see the results, pick up the following KWV Shiraz.

****1/2 drink or cellar

KWV ‘The Mentors’ Shiraz 2012

WO Paarl $29.95 (403618) 14.5% alcohol

Charred toast, campfire smoke and exotic spice billow from the nose of this medium-plus weight, gorgeously textured red. A gusher of ripe, red and black berry fruit robed with cassis and kirsch liqueur are ably supported by tangy acidity, fine-grained tannin and a boatload of style and charm. A lengthy, balanced finish and aftertaste place a bow on this attractive package. Pour with grilled, smoked back ribs or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink now
Wolfberger ‘Signature’ Pinot Gris 2014
AOC Alsace $16.95 (398172) 12.5% alcohol
One hopes for an aromatic nose, good mouthfeel and full, ripe fruit flavour in Gris from Alsace and this delivers on all counts. Aromas of peach and pear abound introducing a full-fruited, fully textured off-dry river of lovely nectar with tropical fruit and peach galore with wisps of lemony tang. Served quite cold, this will score as highly with most white-wine drinkers as it did with me, a tad more acidity for my taste, though. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

• The following Chateau Magnol is the flagship wine of the large producer, Barton & Guestier—it was granted ‘Cru Bourgeois’ status in 1979. It’s a red blend of approximately 20-year-old vines, 48% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc aged around 12 months in French oak, 33% new.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Magnol Cru Bourgeois 2012
AOC Haut-Médoc $24.95 (384271) 13.0% alcohol
An aromatic nose of sandalwood and exotic spice is precursor to a gorgeous, balanced wash of ripe fruit with good acidity, depth and complexity at a price-quality balance tipped way in your favour—how good is that? A balanced-on-a-pin wash of black currant, cassis and sweet, ripe mulberry adorned with vanilla and mocha bathe the palate infusing the lingering, dry finish and aftertaste—mid-full weight and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château du Donjon ‘Grande Tradition’ Minervois 2012
AOC Minervois $15.95 (275578) 14.0% alcohol
This AOC is always a good place to cast bait when fishing for red wine that’s easy drinking and punches above the price—this is a pretty good catch. Red cherry supplies the tang and spice-laden, black raspberry dishes up the ripe fruit providing a nicely balanced stream of medium-bodied, nicely textured red blend. This winery has been in the Panis family for over 500 years—‘Grande Tradition’, indeed. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Lacroix-Vanel ‘Fine Amor’ Pézenas 2013
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $21.95 (343418) 14.0% alcohol
Floral, toast and dark cherry aromas intro this tart red blend—racy pie cherry and red currant interplay with charred herbs and mixed spice streaking across the palate infusing the dry finish. It’s medium bodied with good pouring potential with grilled, smoked ribs slathered in barbecue sauce or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Santa Duc ‘Les Vieilles Vignes’ Côtes du Rhône 2009 

AOC Côtes du Rhône $16.95 (101543) 14.0% alcohol 

Deep ruby, this red blend offers aromas of dark berries, smoke and dried herbs. Dry, medium-full bodied, the rich, ripe fruit is front and centre, a touch of white pepper and sweet spice adding interest. There’s sufficient structure to balance the fruit and create a nice, dry, tangy finish. Serve with grilled burgers or meat casseroles. (Susan Desjardins)

**** cellar
Château Peyros ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Madiran 2010

AOC Madiran $18.95 (234997) 14.0% alcohol

This 17th C property—Peyros means stony place—has 22 hectares in the far south of the Madiran appellation of which the ‘Vieilles Vignes’ portion is 5.5 hectares of that—vines are 40-50-years-old on average, the blend is 80% Tannat, 20% Cabernet Franc, the wine spent 12 months in oak barrel with 40% new. This full-bore, teeth-staining, concentrated red coats the palate with rich cherry/berry fruit with baking spice and earthy notes weaving in and out. It finishes with good fruit and acidity and a solid lick of still-resolving tannin. Pop corks 2019 to 2025. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Masserie Pisari Primitivo 2013
IGT Salento Rosso $13.95 (270306) 14.0% alcohol
Dark berry fruit and exotic spice precede a juicy, spice-laden river of sweet, ripe fruit—dark cherry and black currant decorated with grilled herbs and wisps of black plum—all delivered with lots of spice, life and pizzazz. This is mid-full weight with good texture and balanced, dry, mouth-watering finish. Check the price—back up the van. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino 2010

DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $54.95 (378257) 14.0% alcohol

Lifted aromas of lilac, leather and cedar precede a gorgeous river of black Bing cherry and black currant adorned with hints of orange blossom and toasty/oaky notes. It’s full bodied, firm textured with balance, purity of fruit, structure and depth. It continues creamy smooth through the long aftertaste—dry and fruit forward showing wisps of fine-grained tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring now to 2023. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Carpineto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano ‘Riserva’ 2010
DOCG Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano $29.95 (368910) 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, earthy notes, cherry and sandalwood aromas abound. A fresh, lively rush of pie cherry and mixed field berry fruit flecked with mineral notes, savoury spice and perceptible tannin blanket the palate and aftertaste. This is a fine Vino Nobile offering structure, complexity and promise—pop corks 2018-2022. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Uggiano ‘Falconeri’ Cabernet Sauvignon Toscana 2008
IGT Cabernet Sauvignon di Toscana $44.95 (440719) 14.0% alcohol
What a gorgeous, aged red wine, from its alluring bouquet to the dry, lengthy aftertaste—it’s unique, it’s a winner. There’s a bouquet of über-ripe black cherry/berry fruit and notions of spice, gamy notes and grilled herbs on the nose. A delicious, medium-bodied surge of lively red cherry, kirsch liqueur and black plum coat the palate infusing the finish. It’s quite lively with structure and complexity. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ruffino ‘Ducale Oro – Gran Selezione’ Riserva Chianti Classico 2010

DOCG Chianti Classico $47.95 (353201) 14.5% Alcohol

Made only in the best vintages, this ranks in the top 10% of all 2010 Chianti Classico wine, hence the, ‘Gran Selezione’. Dark berry fruit, floral notes, mocha and baking spice announce a fruity, balanced river of spiced, dark Bing cherry, mulberry and hints of dark chocolate mingling with wisps of roasted herbs on the palate. It’s mid-plus weight with creamy-smooth mouth feel and more than its share of depth, complexity and charm. Pour with grilled steak, osso bucco or classic pasta dishes. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Viticcio Chianti Classico 2012
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (283580) 13.5% alcohol
This is primarily Sangiovese with a splash of Merlot aged 12 months in medium-sized oak barrel plus another 3 months in bottle. Ripe dark fruit and black licorice on the nose, this provides a tangy wash of red currant and passion fruit interwoven with piquant spice, minerality and a supple tannin underpinning. Pour after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Borsao ‘Tres Picos’ Garnacha 2014
Do Campo de Borja $19.95 (273748) 15.0% alcohol
Produced from fruit of low-yielding old vines, this opaque, ruby-hued Wine of the Month packs a punch of warm, jammy black fruit infused with notes of sweet baking spice, vanilla and tantalizing earthy notes. Dry and velvety, imbued with bushels of flavourful red and black berry fruit and warmth of tangy spice and cracked pepper, it shows balance, supple tannins, clean acidity and well-integrated oak aging. Long and warm through the finish, you’ll enjoy this great value with classic paella. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Ego Bodegas Gorú 2013
DOP Jumilla $13.95 (443945) 14.5% alcohol
Aged only briefly in American oak, this blend of Monastrell, Syrah and Petit Verdot shows depth and breadth, the aromas including the savoury quality of tapenade, berry fruit and red licorice, traces of spice and dried lavender. Plush in texture, juxtaposing the savoury character of smoked meat and earth with sweet spice and rich ripe black fruits, the wine is full bodied and dry, yet supple and velvety in texture. Flavourful and long-lasting on the finish, pair this with smoky barbequed pork back ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tobía ‘Selección’ Crianza 2010
DOCa Rioja $21.95 (364828) 14.0% alcohol
Principally Tempranillo blended with small amounts of Graciano and Garnacha, aged 20 months in French and American oak, this is dark and enticing offering delicious aromas of crème de cassis, black berries, chocolate licorice allsorts, cinnamon toast and vanilla. Dry, velvety and full bodied, the black berry and cherry flavours caress the palate complemented by a tangy, juicy texture and well-defined tannic structure. Balanced and suave, assertive in style, this finely crafted red offers pleasing warmth on the smooth extended finish. It’s a great match for grilled leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: December 10, 2016

***** drink now Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Joy’ Sparkling Wine 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 (310334) 12.6% alcohol
This is a stunning example of what meticulous winemaking technique does to showcase excellent fruit from a top vintage. This would score well in a flight of world-class sparkling wine. Persistent fine-bead bubbles form an admirable mousse infused with lively aromas of citrus and mineral notes along with hints of baking bread and orange blossom. A refreshing attack of lime and zesty lemon interweaves with ripe pit fruit on the palate persisting through the lengthy aftertaste—clean and refreshing, balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: December, 2016

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Canadian Oak’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (149302) 12.0% alcohol
Hard to be more ‘local’—the owners, grapes and oak for the barrels. There’s oodles of baking spice, sweet vanilla and caramel on the nose of this medium-bodied, nicely textured Chard. It bathes the palate with piquant apple pie spice, notions of oak and tangy citrus—Myer lemon, Key lime and grapefruit melding well with green apple on the long finish. Lovely poured now, will knit together and even improve with six more months in bottle. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBA 2016

**** drink now
Toi Toi Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 13.0% alcohol
Toi Toi is a native New Zealand grass. Citrus and tropical fruit are undercut with gooseberry, sweet hay and orchard blossom on the nose. Barley off-dry with balanced acidity, it offers a long, racy finish with flavours of zesty lemon, white peach and passion fruit. Serve with an asparagus quiche. (Lisa Isabelle)

New in Vintages

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Featherstone Cabernet Franc 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (64618) 12.3% alcohol
This bathes the palate with an absolutely gorgeous stream of tangy red berry and dark Bing cherry garnished with earthy notes and sweet vanilla. Aromas of wood smoke, graphite and dark berry fruit abound. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering, mouth-watering aftertaste. Following wild-yeast fermentation this was aged in American oak barrel—it’s a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

***1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Argento Pinot Grigio 2015
Argentina $17.95 (406850) 1500 mL 13.0% alcohol
There are few wines better at the price and this magnum, with 1500 mL, puts the price less than $9 for a 750 mL bottle—a $2. saving on the price of two bottles of 750 mL—go for the gusto. Honey and floral notes on the nose, it bathes the palate with a medium-bodied, lively wash of refreshing lemon curd and hints of caramel with splash of grapefruit on the crisp and refreshing finish. It pairs and pours well alongside pan-seared fish and grilled seafood as well as roast chicken and pork roast. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Ara Pathway Pinot Noir 2013
Marlborough $16.95 (416230) 13.0% alcohol
This lightly oaked, fruit-forward semi-transparent Pinot is a lovely find, offering bright lifted aromas of sun-ripened red fruit with a whiff of spice and earth. Dry, medium bodied, the focused flavours of red cherry and berry deliver good concentration; the level of acidity is nicely balanced, while elusive nuances of cinnamon toast, smoke and earth add intrigue. With its tasty, fruit-filled finish, it’s a great value and a fine choice to serve with salmon burgers or grilled pork tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Ara Pathway Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Marlborough, South Island $14.95 (416222) 13.0% alcohol
This family owned vineyard sources all fruit from its single estate in the Wairau Valley. Pronounced aromas of ripe pineapple and passion fruit are backed by asparagus and herbal notes which replay on the palate. It’s medium bodied and dry with a long, zesty citrus finish. Pair with pan-seared white fish with lemon. (Lisa Isabelle)

**** drink now
Babich Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (620054) 13.0 % alcohol
2016 marks 100 years with 3 generations of family winemaking at Babich. The fruit is sourced from several vineyards and blended to offer aromas of grapefruit and passion fruit accented with hay and a stony minerality. Riper tropical flavours and lemon adorn the palate. It’s value-packed, medium-light bodied, dry with a crisp, cleansing finish. (Lisa Isabelle)

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Old Vines’ Baco Noir
VQA Ontario $19.95 (459966) 13.5% alcohol
Fruit was sourced from 30-year-old, shovel-planted vines—hand dug by the Speck brothers, owners of Henry of Pelham—and aged 14 months in new and seasoned American oak barrel. Tar, exotic spice and campfire smoke aromas abound. This bathes the palate with a rich, luscious wave of black berry fruit, ripe dark plum and sweet black Bing cherry. There’s deft balance, good structure and persistent purity of fruit. It’s mid-full bodied, excellent value with good mouth feel and a tangy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Kacaba ‘Unoaked Chardonnay’ 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (326975) 12.5% alcohol
Ripe fruit—peach and pear—and crisp green apple aromas herald a mid-weight, gorgeously textured river of piquant spice and tang-laden fruit—pineapple, lime-soaked peach and lemon curd. There’s persistent purity of fruit throughout without any oak influence. It finishes clean, refreshing and lip-smacking good. It pours well with seafood, chicken or pork. This is a very good wine at a very good price. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Hawke’s Bay, North Island $16.95 (619452) 13.0% alcohol
This wine from Matua, which means head of the family in Maori, is from the warmer North Island. Aromas of ripe melon and pineapple are complemented by fresh cut grass and tart green apple. The palate is bathed in vibrant red grapefruit and lemon. Its medium-light bodied and dry with a mouth-watering finish. (Lisa Isabelle)

• The following two wines are not to be confused with Prosecco and are not from Italy. The ‘Hugo’ has wine, sugar, citric acid and natural flavours in its ingredients and the Iced Melon is ‘infused with the floral bouquet of elderflower, iced mint and watermelon’ with wine, sugar, citric acid and natural flavours added. Winecurrent points this out only due to the novelty for there to be flavour and aromas added to wine. They are meant to be light, easy drinking and full of party-time, summer fun. And… they’re very low alcohol.

drink now
Perisecco ‘Hugo’ Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage
Germany $11.70 (448514) 5.5% alcohol
This is a fun drink for summer gatherings and other party events. Aromas of floral, notes, lime and mint precede a sweet wash of lime cordial and Turkish delight confectionary carried along on a profusion of bubbles. Give it a go with crushed ice, tonic water and a sprig of mudlled mint. (Vic Harradine)

drink now
Perisecco ‘Iced Melon’ Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage
Germany $11.70 (448506) 5.5% alcohol
This is a fun drink for summer gatherings and other party events. Aromas of cherry and bubble gum herald a bubbly river of cherry cordial and red berry jam along with grilled, sugared ruby red grapefruit on the finish and aftertaste. Serve chilled over ice with mint and a slice of watermelon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Saint Clair Family Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (237255) 13.0% alcohol
Prominent aromas of lemon/lime and passion fruit are complemented by asparagus and fresh herbal notes. Succulent favours of citrus and tropical fruit and mingle on the deftly balanced palate. It’s dry, medium-bodied and finishes long with bright citrus flavours. Pair with shrimp salad with lime vinaigrette. (Lisa Isabelle)

**** drink or cellar
Stoneleigh Pinot Noir 2014
Marlborough $19.00 (54353) 13.5% alcohol
Notions of capsicum, earth and fresh-picked beet layer on the appealing aromas of red berry, cherry and spice. Dry, medium bodied, this wine tickles the palate with notes of spice and white pepper, then delivers a lovely wash of red cherry and currant underpinned with delicate tannins, clean acidity and a mineral quality. The peppery note brings a touch of warmth through the lasting finish. A tasty wine that will pair nicely with grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Villa Maria ‘Private Bin - Lightly Sparkling’ Sauvignon Blanc 2015
New Zealand $17.95 (429969) 13.0% alcohol
The pungency of gooseberry and citrus, herbs and a vegetal note are nicely accented by the soft, delicate mousse of this approachable mid-weight sparkler. Nice and dry, lively with clean, classic flavours of passionfruit and capsicum, lemon zest and grapefruit pith, it’s well-made and consistent through the bright, refreshing finish. Enjoy it with an appetizer of goat cheese with olive oil, lemon juice and zest and fresh herbs. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
White Cliff Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Marlborough $14.90 (610972) 12.0% alcohol
There’s a rush of aromas from the glass—nettles and fresh cut grass, gooseberry, citrus and a tropical note. The tangy citrus brings a touch of sweetness—imagine grapefruit and orange segments combined—mingling with classic gooseberry and replaying the subtle herbal notes. Silky smooth and balanced, this easy-drinking mid-weight wine serves up a nice dry finish. Great value! (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Whitehaven Pinot Noir 2013
Marlborough $24.10 (245696) 14.0% alcohol
Aged 11 months in French oak (about one quarter new), this offers lifted aromas of spiced rose, ripe cherry, spice and a touch of vanilla. Spicy and warm, fruity yet dry, framed by fine supple tannins and fresh acidity, this lavishes the palate with flavours of cherry compote and fresh-cooked raspberry, the long-lasting fruit flavours mingling with baking spice on the finish. Showing concentration, weight and balance, this has the heft to be savoured with grilled beef tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (308288) 13.0% alcohol
There’s very good value here. Fresh tropical fruit and herbaceous notes are integrated to display aromas of pineapple and passion fruit complemented with sweet pea and fresh cut grass on the nose. The palate is a lively blend of citrus, passion fruit with a stony, almost salty, minerality. This well-balanced white is dry, medium bodied with a long, racy citrus finish. (Lisa Isabelle)

New in Ontario Wineries

• This limited-production, sparkling wine—only 161 cases produced—is a thing of beauty that was deftly handled from vine to bottle. Estate-grown, 100% Chardonnay fruit was hand-picked into small picking baskets, hand sorted at the winery and gently, whole-bunch pressed. It settled in tank for 36 hours then racked off gross lees before being fermented dry at a cool 16°C. The second fermentation began in the bottle you purchase on February 5, 2013 and was kept on its fine lees in bottle for 30 months before being disgorged on August, 2015. It’s sealed with a red ribbon and crown-cap closure ensuring it tastes as wonderful as the winemaker knew it would when you flip it off.

***** drink now Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Joy - Premium Cuvée’ Sparkling Wine 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 (310334) 12.6% alcohol
This is a stunning example of what meticulous vinification technique does to showcase excellent fruit from a top year. This would score well in a flight of world-class sparkling wine. Persistent fine-bead bubbles form an admirable mousse infused with lively aromas of citrus and mineral notes along with hints of baking bread and orange blossom. A refreshing attack of lime and zesty lemon interweaves with ripe pit fruit on the palate persisting through the lengthy aftertaste—clean and refreshing, balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Featherstone Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $24.95 12.3% alcohol
This is a lovely Niagara Pinot; estate fruit was hand harvested, wild-yeast fermented and pressed into French oak barrel undergoing full malolactic conversion. An involved nose of red berry fruit, mixed spice and slightly mineral notes make way for a medium-weight, nicely balanced wash of red cherry, cranberry and passion fruit joined by kirsch liqueur on the dry, tangy aftertaste. This pours well with duck or quail. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Canadian Oak’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (326975) 12.5% alcohol
Hard to be more ‘local’—owners, grapes and oak for the barrels. There’s oodles of baking spice, sweet vanilla and caramel on the nose of this medium-bodied, nicely textured Chard. It bathes the palate with piquant apple pie spice, notions of oak and tangy citrus—Myer lemon, Key lime and grapefruit melding well with green apple on the long finish. Lovely poured now, will knit together and even improve with six more months in bottle. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Four Feathers’ 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (341586) 12.5% alcohol
This blend of four noble white varieties brings to the fore some of the unique characteristics of each, including the floral character of Gewürztraminer and Riesling, the ripe orchard fruit of Chardonnay, and the freshness of Sauvignon Blanc. Just off dry, notes of peach, melon, citrus zest and spice are framed by fine acidity, while residual sweetness manifests on the fresh, fruity finish. Serve this value-packed beauty with pan-fried white fish. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada! Exceptional Value!
Kacaba ‘Jennifer’s’ Pinot Gris 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of floral notes and exotic spice interplay with honey and peach on the nose. A deftly balanced and full-fruited rush of pure ambrosia explodes on the palate—lemon pie filling, spiced, ripe melon and lemon-lime cordial to the fore. It’s pure and persistent through the lengthy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. The quality-price balance tips in your favour and it’s versatile at the table pouring with chicken, pork or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Kacaba Cabernet Franc 2014
VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.95 13.0% alcohol
Kacaba goes from strength to strength as winemaker John Tummon and his team allows the well-managed, estate-grown fruit do the talking. This is deftly balanced and brimming with lively flavour—racy red cherry/berry fruit nicely balanced with notes of ripe, sweet raspberry decorated with spice and mocha. It’s medium weight with good texture and a dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Kacaba ‘Reserve’ Riesling 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 11.0% alcohol
Hand-harvested Niagara fruit was whole-bunch pressed before fermentation and settling in stainless steel tank. Green apple and lime aromas on the nose of this barely off-dry gem introduce a lively stream of Key lime, racy lemon and Granny Smith apple. The delectable flavour and pin-point balance make for a versatile wine at the table—fish, seafood, goat cheese or steamed mussels and linguini in white wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Private Order

• Order the following wines—plus those in previous newsletters—by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via website, VinoLuna, by Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.

**** drink or cellar
Damilano Barbera d’Asti 2015
DOCG Barbera d’Asti, Italy $21.75 14.5% alcohol
Exotic incense, graphite and anise aromas on the nose, this unleashes a lively stream of red currant and passion fruit laced with lip-smacking tang steaking over the palate. It finishes fruit forward and mouth-watering good. It’s smashing good now paired with red pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. Still in its infancy, this will improve with a three-hour decant and even more with patience—pop corks 12 months from now. (Vic Harradine)  
   
***1/2 drink or cellar
Damilano ‘Marghe’ Nebbiolo 2104
DOC Langhe, Italy $24.75 14.0% alcohol
This will cellar dweller will reward patience and two more years in bottle. It’s a light shade of red— close to dark pink. Aromas of charred toast and cedar introduce a stream of palate-bathing flavours with roasted savory herbs, tarry notes and black currant to the fore. This is medium weight with good fruit and balancing tang. There’s a bite on the finish from still-resolving tannin that’ll fade with age. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Susan and Lisa