Winecurrent

January 31, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with a feature on wines that have scored 90+ points out of 100 as reviewed and rated by a number of publications and wine writers. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • A number of good-value wines unearthed by Mark in the Australia, Italy and Spain segments.
  • Lindsay highlighting outstanding wines at attractive prices under Chile: Red, France: White and France: Red.
  • A challenge — find all 7 wines that scored 4.5 stars and are under $20.00!
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

90+ Wines

**** drink now
Gloria Ferrer Chardonnay 2005
Carneros, California $26.95 (083345)
This is always a consistent producer, perhaps better known for sparkling wines, but producing a dandy here. There are plenty of spicy vanilla and toasty aromas, alongside honeyed peach and banana. The palate is slightly creamy but maintains balance with just enough acidity, and this is an elegant, medium-bodied wine. The flavours linger nicely providing a nice match for butter-poached sablefish. (MT)

**** drink now
Edmeades Zinfandel 2006
Mendocino County, California $21.95 (0105924)
Winemaker Van Williamson takes the minimalist approach to winemaking, using natural yeasts and small open top bins for fermentation, leaving the wines unfined and unfiltered. With its plush, sweet red fruit nose, this Zin is medium to full bodied with balanced, juicy acidity, smooth tannins and a ripe, full palate of cherry, cassis, black fruit, pepper and a touch of dust. However, weighing in at a hefty 15.5% alcohol, you may want to pace yourself! (LG)

**** drink or cellar
J. Lohr ‘Hilltop Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Paso Robles, California $39.95 (0686584)
According to J. Lohr, their goal is “to produce varietals that can compete with the finest in the world”. To this end, they’ve developed three tiers of wines produced from three vineyards; the J. Lohr Cuvée Series, J. Lohr Vineyard Series and J. Lohr Estates. From the Vineyard Series, the Hilltop Cab is from fruit planted high on the slope in the Paso Robles holdings. Blackberry, mulberry, cassis, spice and vanilla charm the nose of this full-bodied, juicy Cab. With velvety tannins, balanced acidity and 14.9% alcohol, deeper flavours of cocoa, ripe black fruit and liquorice generously fill-out the palate. Give this wine a go with veal tenderloin, medium rare, with rosemary mashed potatoes. (LG)

**** drink now
Heggies Vineyard Chardonnay 2006
Eden Valley, South Australia $23.95 (903559)
This wine was sourced from a vineyard 500 metres above sea level (high for Australia), allowing the grapes to maintain fresh acidity while ripening. The nose is initially dominated by French oak, with smoke and toast at the forefront. There’s a yeasty and pleasant nutty side to the wine, mingling with mainly tropical fruit. The overall impression on the nose is not unlike vintage Champagne, where the secondary characteristics from winemaking are quite evident. This full-bodied wine is rich and soft in the mouth, well balanced and maintains a long finish. With this sort of texture and weight, it’s just the thing for lobster tails dabbed in drawn butter. (MT)

**** drink now
Glaetzer ‘Bishop’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $34.95 (0627869)
Bishop is the family/maiden name of Colin Glaetzer’s wife, Judith. From their talented son Ben, who now carries on the family’s winemaking tradition, comes this deep purple-coloured Shiraz showing complex notes of chocolate, dill, herbs, earth, vanilla, smoke and menthol. From low-yielding 60-odd-year-old vines, this wine was aged 14 months in 70% French, 30% American oak. Medium to full bodied, it’s ripe and juicy with medium acidity, smooth tannins and a respectable finish. (LG)

***1/2 drink now
Saltram of Barossa ‘Mamre Brook’ Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (0032227)
Vinified in open fermenters, this Aussie Shiraz then spent 16 months in French and American oak. With a stewed black fruit nose, the flavours on the palate verge on syrupy with intense, jammy black fruit, liquorice and vanilla. It’s full bodied with moderate acidity, velvety tannins and 15% alcohol. Smoked sausage and roasted veggies would pair nicely with this bottle. (LG)

***1/2 drink now
3 Rings Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $23.95 (015495)
The Barossa Valley is known to be a very warm area in Australia, and this wine’s 15% alcohol is a direct result of that heat. Aromas include red berries and dark plums, with liquorice, mint and oaky nuances. It’s very softly structured, with balance mainly coming from the alcohol. This is a big, fleshy wine which would be nice on its own on a cold day, or with very mild firm cheeses. (MT)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Turkey Flat ‘Butcher’s Block Red’ 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $23.95 (090241)
This wine blends Shiraz with lesser amounts of Grenache and Mourvèdre, a common formula in the southern Rhône Valley of France. Dark and dried fruits combine with smoked meat and pepper notes on the nose, which opens up further after a few minutes in the glass. Oak aromas are present but not dominant, and there’s plenty of fruit on a full-bodied frame. There’s a nice tannic framework here which will allow the wine to evolve for a further three to four years, and by then it’ll be just right for braised leg of lamb with fresh herbs. (MT)

**** drink now
Pierre Sparr ‘Mambourg’ Riesling 2000
AOC Alsace Grand Cru, France $29.95 (0061184)
Perhaps the best-known Alsacian producer, Pierre Sparr owns 34 hectares of vines and has another 150 hectares under contract with independent growers. A rich gold colour in the glass, this stunner has soft peach, mineral, petrol and honey notes on the nose. Dry and light to medium bodied, it’s curvy and supple with crisp acidity and 12.5% alcohol. Sip it solo or serve it with pan-seared scallops. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Clos de Sixte 2006
AOC Lirac, France $26.95 (0076349)
Opulent and ripe, it’s easy to be drawn in by the dark fruit—blackberry and blueberry—plus cassis, vanilla and pretty floral notes. A blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre, it’s full bodied and smooth with fresh acidity, 15% alcohol and a plush texture. Kick back and enjoy this lovely Lirac with some juicy spare ribs. (LG)

****1/2 drink now
Delas Domaine des Grand Chemins Crozes-Hermitage 2006
AOC Crozes-Hermitage, France $28.95 (0101105)
Medium to full bodied and nicely balanced, aromas of blackberry, mulberry, rhubarb, cassis, violet and tobacco tease the senses. In the mouth, there’s good intensity of flavours along with smooth tannins, medium acidity and 12.5% alcohol. This Crozes is sure to please with bacon-wrapped filet mignon. (LG)

**** cellar
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteuneuf-du-Pape 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France $72.95 (0951475)
Medium-deep ruby-brick, this one is meaty and sensual with cherry, cassis, mulberry, dark fruit, sweet floral, mineral and umami notes. Medium to full bodied and juicy, there’s bright acidity, fine-grained tannins, 14.5% alcohol and a touch of cedar on the finish. A little tight right now, it’s sure to come into its own when given another few years. (LG)

***1/2 drink now
St. Urbans-Hof Riesling 2007
QbA Mosel, Germany $16.95 (0995746)
With a medium-straw colour, the shy nose of this Riesling displays aromas of apricot, peach, apple, mineral and a splash of ripe grapefruit. It’s light-plus bodied and off-dry on the palate with a laid-back 10% alcohol, fresh acidity and a fleshy, soft finish. Versatile and easy-going, this one will match well with chicken in a vermouth and saffron cream sauce. (LG)

**** drink now
Las Rocas Garnacha 2006
DO Calatayud, Spain $15.95 (0095190)
Medium-deep ruby in colour, this Garnacha will wow with intense blackberry, cherry, mulberry, liquorice, mineral, pepper and tobacco flavours. Medium-plus bodied and juicy, it’s smooth textured with friendly tannins, medium acidity and 14.5% alcohol. Drink it casually with a juicy burger and paprika-spiked fries. (LG)

****1/2 drink now
Montecillo Rioja ‘Gran Reserva’ 2001
DOCa, Spain $31.95 (0239277)
Spending two years in French oak and another three years in bottle, this Gran Reserva developed with no shortage of personality. Earthy and very old world, there’s great layered complexity on the nose and palate. Brambly fruit, cherry, smoke, herbs, earth and wood all add to the mix along with a medium to full body, balanced acidity, 13% alcohol and smooth tannins. This is the perfect wine to ponder over a selection of cheeses. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Zumaya Tempranillo Crianza 2005
DO Ribera Del Duero, Spain $21.95 (0093013)
Notes of raspberry, strawberry, cherry, vanilla, herbs, dried flowers and spice all grace the nose of this all-Tempranillo red. Full figured and ripe, the tannins are nicely structured with medium acidity, 14% alcohol and a medium-long finish. Pepper, cedar and black fruit flavours add depth to the palate, making this a great wine to pair up with spicy Spanish paella with sausage and prawns. (LG)

The Main Release

Dessert Wine

**** drink or cellar
Massandra Muscat 2004
Black Sea Coast, Crimea, Ukraine $16.95 (0073155)
This winery was founded by Tsar Nicolas II in 1894 to make wine for the Imperial family. Aged in barrel for two years, it’s a lovely medium-shade of amber-tangerine with pretty aromatics showcasing apricot/peach, floral notes, lemon meringue and orange peel. Sweet and medium-bodied on the palate, it’s balanced by a fresh wave of acidity and has a mellow mouth feel followed by a nutty finish. Serve it as a flirty aperitif or with apricot cheesecake. (LG)

Ontario: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Three Vineyards’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (105379)
You’ll hear over and again how spectacular Niagara’s 2007 vintage was, and for good reason. This wine is all about finesse, with green and yellow apple aromas, pleasant minerality and subtle vanilla tones. Refreshing acidity creates excellent balance, and as this wine is medium in body it will be quite flexible at the table. Lighter sea food dishes or poultry in cream sauces would do nicely. (MT)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Two Vineyards’ Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (105387)
Sure it’s a long name, but this wine has a lot to offer once you’re done reading the label. The nose is full of tangerine and orange blossom, without the mineral aromas common to Niagara Riesling. It just might make you think you’re tasting an Alsatian wine. There’s plenty of mouthwatering acidity on a very light-bodied frame, and the finish is long and full of citrus character. It’ll be hard to beat as an aperitif or with most canapés. (MT)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Inniskillin ‘Reserve Series’ Cabernet Franc 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.75 (0091140)
Full bodied and muscular, ripe red fruit aromas of cherry, raspberry, cassis, along with savoury spice and pepper, fill out the firmly structured frame. Fresh acidity brightens the palate, with 12.5% alcohol and a lingering finish. Cabernet Franc seems to still be an underappreciated variety here in Ontario. Give this a chance with a peppercorn steak and you too can help buck the trend! (LG)

California: White Wine

**** drink now
Hess Chardonnay 2006
Monterey, California $19.95 (986778)
This wine has a pleasant nose which takes a few minutes to open up, but when it does it offers both citrus and tropical fruit character with subtle yeast and oak nuances. On the palate it shows lower acidity which leads to a slightly creamy character, good balance and solid length. It has enough weight to tackle richer sea food cuisine; my choice is seared scallops. (MT)

California: Red Wine

**** drink now
Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2007
California $19.95 (0719211)
Forget wimpy fruity Zins—this one’s got more serious aromas of meat, smoke/campfire, spice, pepper, vanilla and lush black fruit. Dry and medium bodied, the tannins are smooth and complemented by bright acidity, 14.5% alcohol and persistent flavours. Interesting and complex, this wine will team up well with anything barbecued. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Celestial Blue Label’ Malbec 2006
California $27.95 (076133)
Malbec from California, why not? California is home to winemakers with a penchant for experimentation and this wine is an example of an experiment gone right. The black liquorice aromas are huge, with blackberries, blueberries, pepper and oak all combining to give this an intriguing (like Liquorice Allsorts), very pleasant profile. Structure is provided by chewy, very ripe tannins, and although a bit young, this wine should be beautifully balanced after a couple of years in the cellar. There’s plenty of fruit on the long finish, and this will pair nicely with barbequed ribs with a wild berry glaze. Solid effort. (MT)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Hess ‘Allomi Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $37.95 (906240)
A modern-day miracle worker, Donald Hess turned water into wine—he parlayed financial success in his Swiss bottled water company into this California winery, as well as a new venture in Argentina, Bodega Colomé. The nose here is fruit driven, with cassis dominating more subtle notes of pepper, coffee and toast. Structure is given by both moderate acids and tannins, and the 14.5% alcohol doesn’t appear to dominate the wine in the least. It’s drinking well now and should continue to do so for another two to three years. (MT)

Argentina: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Catena Zapata 'Alamos' Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $13.95 (467944)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) A consistent performer in winecurrent reviews, it continues to offer value. Bistro-styled and made for early and easy drinking, look for coffee and earthy tones on the nose then a solid core of tang and zest from cranberry and pie cherry flavours. There's generous texture, ripe tannin and a nicely balanced dry finish. This pairs extremely well with pasta in tomato sauce, try lasagna or spaghetti Bolognese. (VH)

**** drink now
St. Lucas Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza $16.95 (0587147)
Located in the Barrancas region in the Mendoza Valley, this wine is a deep ruby-purple colour with showy black fruit, liquorice, spice, menthol and vanilla notes on the nose. It has a plush texture with gobs of intense black fruit on the palate with a medium to full body, smooth tannins, juicy acidity and 13.5% alcohol. It’s the perfect candidate to match a hearty winter stew. (LG)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink now
Canepa ‘Reserva Privada’ Carmenère 2006
Rapel Valley $13.95 (0082586)
The peppery, green and spicy notes are nicely offset by ripe cherry, cassis and liquorice aromas. Medium-plus bodied, there’s a fresh stream of acidity intertwined with pliable tannins, 13.5% alcohol then followed by a medium-long finish. Try a thin crust wood-oven baked pizza with sun-dried tomatoes, portobello mushrooms and olives. (LG)

**** drink now
Concha Y Toro ‘Marques de Casa Concha’ Syrah 2006
Peumo, Rapel Valley $19.95 (0019042)
Yummy, intense aromas of blueberry, ripe black fruit, vanilla, cocoa, pepper and spice greet your nose on the bouquet. Equally pronounced on the palate, it’s medium to full bodied with juicy acidity, 15% alcohol and lush plum, cassis, black cherry, coffee bean and roasted nut flavours. (LG)

***1/2 drink now
Errazuriz ‘Wild Ferment’ Pinot Noir 2007
DO Casablanca Valley $19.95 (510396)
‘Wild Ferment’ indicates the winemakers chose to ferment this wine with naturally present, indigenous (a.k.a. wild) yeast strains as opposed to cultured. The goal was to achieve more aromatic complexity. The aromas are certainly pretty with black cherry, plum and strawberry fruits combining with sweet spices along with more subtle notes of violet, smoke and mushroom. The wine’s structure is very typical of well-made Pinot Noir, with refreshing acidity and very soft tannins. It’s full in body with nice balance and moderate length. It will do quite well with grilled salmon or roast duck. (MT)

****1/2 drink now
In Situ Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Gran Reserva’ 2006
Aconcagua Valley $15.95 (0076281)
This is produced by the San Estaban winery, founded in the 1970’s by Jose Vincente. His son, Horacio, trained in Bordeaux and has since taken over the winemaking. The property produces wines under eight different labels—the In Situ range uses the best vineyard sites and is aged in French and American oak. This is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Carmenère. With great freshness on the palate, there are black fruit, cherry, floral, menthol and peppery notes supported by velvety tannins. It’s medium to full bodied with 14.5% alcohol, good balance and nice length on the finish. (LG)

Australia: White Wine

**** drink now
D’Arenberg ‘The Olive Grove’ Chardonnay 2007
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills, South Australia $17.95 (702845)
Olive trees thrive here. Birds feed on the ripe olives, dropping stones, and where they land an olive tree might grow—including between the vines. This wine has nice aromatic balance between tree and tropical fruits and the pleasant leesy notes imparted by the winemaking process. It has pleasant acidity and great balance, and at a nicely reserved 13.5% alcohol. It feels medium bodied in the mouth. This will be pretty versatile with a wide range of foods from baked fish to roasted pork, and it offers good value. (MT)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink now
Celestial Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (0077669)
The winery used traditional open fermenters in the production of this wine followed by maturation in French oak barrels. Deep ruby in the glass, it has loads of chocolate, pepper, spice, black fruit, liquorice, earth and beefy aromas. Medium to full bodied, there’s lively acidity accompanied by velvety tannins and 14.5% alcohol. With its great depth and complexity, this would be a shoo-in for bison tenderloin. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mornington Estate Pinot Noir 2006
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria $20.95 (975938)
This wine consistently mimics the style of many Burgundian Pinot Noirs, at a very attractive price. The nose features strawberry and sour cherry, but with a healthy dose of good old-fashioned dirt. Throw in some chocolate and clove notes and you’ve got great aromatic character with good Pinot Noir typicity. Lively acidity combines with soft lingering tannins to create great balance. The wine finishes long with plenty of fruit. You’ll enjoy this on its own or with classic matches including beef bourguignon and seared duck breast. (MT)

**** drink or cellar
Organic Vignerons Australia ‘Ova’ Shiraz/Cabernet 2005
South Australia $18.95 (0109090)
The owners of five organic properties joined together in 2002 to establish Organic Vignerons Australia. With vineyards throughout South Australia—Limestone Coast, Adelaide Plains, Riverland and Langhorne Creek—the winemakers blend fruit from these different terroirs to produce their wines. Reminiscent of black forest cake, this wine’s nose boasts sweet spice, pepper, black berry, cassis, cocoa, black cherry and vanilla. A full-bodied blend, the acidity and tannins are nicely balanced with a smooth texture, 14.5% alcohol and a strong finish. (LG)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Kim Crawford ‘Kim’s Favourite SP Chardonnay’ 2006
Gisborne, North Island $24.95 (090126)
This is a powerhouse wine, with great concentration on the nose. It’s both sweet and spicy in aroma, with plenty of toasty oak along with copious amounts of ripe tropical fruit. The palate is rich, creamy and full bodied. It’s a completely different style compared to Crawford’s signature Marlborough-region Sauvignon Blanc. This is big and rich enough to work with grilled steak or lamb. (MT)

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink now
Kumkani Sauvignon Blanc 2007
WO Coastal Region $14.95 (0057539)
Derived from the Xhosa word for ‘king’, Kumkani sources grapes for this particular wine from the Darling and Stellenbosch regions. A typical South African Sauv Blanc, it flaunts aromas and flavours of gooseberry, grassy, nettles, white pepper, fresh herbs and green apple. Medium bodied and lively, the racy acidity leaves your palate clean and refreshed. (LG)

Austria: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Brϋndlmayer Grϋner Veltliner 2007
Kamptaler Terrasen $21.95 (979708)
If you’re a fan of the style, this wine will be sure to please. It features plenty of slate and white grapefruit aromas with soft herbaceous notes, green melon and white pepper nuances. In the mouth its bracing acidity will leave your mouth watering, making this a great choice as an aperitif. It’s light in body with crisp balance and a long finish of citrus and spice. (MT)

France: White Wine

Alsace

****1/2 drink now
Jean Geiler Gewürztraminer ‘Réserve Particulière’ 2007
AOC Alsace $17.95 (0106864)
Classic enticing aromas of an English rose, Turkish delight, peach, exotic spice and ripe apple make an appearance on the bouquet. The same aromas trickle over onto the medium-plus bodied palate with 13% alcohol, soft acidity and a fleshy mouth feel. This will nicely complement a big bowl of mussels in a curry cream sauce. (LG)

Burgundy

**** drink now
Maison Champy ‘Bourgogne Signature’ Chardonnay 2006
AOC Bourgogne $22.95 (0043455)
Round notes of cantaloupe, apple, lemon, toasted coconut and mineral grace the nose of this nicely balanced Burgundy. On the palate, it’s medium bodied with great acidity, 13% alcohol and green apricot flavours. This would be the perfect partner for sea bass with vanilla cream sauce and garden vegetables. A steal at just over $20, it’s worth grabbing a few bottles. (LG)

Loire Valley

**** drink or cellar
Les Coteaux Tufiers Vouvray ‘Demi-Sec’ 2006
AOC Vouvray $15.95 (0057018)
Chenin Blanc is an extremely versatile grape used to make sparkling wine, still white wine, dessert wine and even brandy. Off-dry examples such as this one are renowned for their ageing potential. Pretty and delicately layered, this light-plus bodied Chenin shows waxy, floral, honey, mead, citrus and fresh sweet herb aromas. Off-dry and fresh, it’s packed with riper tree fruit flavours with balanced acidity, 12% alcohol and a generous finish. (LG)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Bourdieu La Valade 2000
AOC Fronsac $34.95 (0092551)
This is an impressive claret with aromas of red and black fruit, leather, animal, pepper and dirt. Full bodied and elegant, there’s a firm tannin structure, bright acidity, 13% alcohol and a smoothly textured palate plumped up with raspberry, cherry, cassis and earthy flavours. Pair it with duck risotto and herb-roasted potatoes. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Château Ferran 2005
AOC Pessac-Léognan $32.95 (0098400)
It’s hard not to love this wine with its deep blackberry, cherry, cassis, vanilla, exotic spice, cedar and sandalwood aromas encircling the nose. On the palate, it’s full and balanced with good acidity, silky tannins and 12.5% alcohol. It’s not often you find Bordeaux with this kind of depth and finesse at this price point. This wine begs for a big juicy beef rib eye and roasted veg. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château La Gorce 2005
AOC Médoc $19.95 (0091397)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot; it’s a knock-out from the get-go. There are gorgeous notes of coffee, spice, pepper, violet and floral perfume. Full bodied and firmly structured, there’s a good backbone of acidity alongside 13.5% alcohol and flavours of red cherry, cassis, blackberry, nutmeg and clove. At under $20 this is a no-brainer—load up the trunk! (LG)

Rhône Valley

**** drink now
Domaine Beau Mistral ‘Rasteau’ 2006
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Rasteau $23.95 (0104992)
Rasteau is one of the better Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages and has been touted to receive its own AOC designation. Your mouth will water after nosing this generously juicy number, with black cherry, stewed blueberries, cocoa, vanilla and peppery notes. Full-ish bodied and ripe, the tannins are velvety, approachable and complemented by medium acidity, 14.5% alcohol and a lush core of black fruit. (LG)

****1/2 drink now
Perrin ‘Rasteau L’Andéol’ 2006
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Rasteau $19.95 (976845)
Here we have intense aromatics evoking dark plum and chocolate, with black liquorice and violet undertones. Both acidity and tannins are moderate and well balanced on its full-bodied frame. There’s plenty of ripe fruit on the long finish, and this blend (80% Grenache, 20% Syrah) is drinking very well right now, so there’s no need to cellar over the long term—enjoy it today with smoked cheese. The price–quality ratio favours the purchaser. (MT)

Greece: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Kir-Yianni Petra 2007
Vin de Pays de Florina $14.95 (063552)
This unique white is created from the Roditis grape, a very old variety indigenous to Greece. The nose is intriguingly spicy, with floral, fresh grass, pink grapefruit and almond notes all part of the picture. In the mouth, it’s refreshing and light bodied with a moderately long finish of citrus and mineral flavours. It’s very impressive for the price, and certainly something different. (MT)

Italy: White Wine

**** drink now
Borgo Magredo Pinot Grigio 2007
DOC Friuli, Grave $16.95 (072389)
Many Italian Pinot Grigios are quite dissimilar to their Alsatian cousins, being fairly neutral aromatically and somewhat simple overall. Fortunately, this wine seems to combine positive attributes of both Alsace and Friuli, with an expressive nose and a refreshing palate. Aromatics include focused notes of ripe tangerine, pear, white flowers and honey. In the mouth it’s lively and light bodied, wonderfully balanced and shows good length. Game bird with a spicy fruit compote would suit. (MT)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Banfi Rosso di Montalcino 2206
DOC Rosso di Montalcino 375mL $16.95 (009423) - 750mL $28.95 (681262)
I really enjoyed the nose on this wine and was delighted to find it available in both half and full bottle formats. Dried fruits, mainly fig, combine with sweet spice and leather notes, alongside pleasing minerality and a subtle herbal note. Moderate tannin levels, already resolving nicely, create excellent balance and the flavours linger for quite some time. With medium body it will be very comfortable with roasted veal in pan drippings. This wine earned its extra half star on value. (MT)

**** drink now
Pasqua Rosso Veronese Le Soraie 2005
IGT $18.95 (097568)
The winemakers used the Appasimento process—the grapes were partially dried prior to fermentation—to vinify this beauty. There’s much more concentration and riper character to the fruit. Consequently, the nose evokes aromas of raisins and dark fruit, with chocolate and a touch of clove. It’s very softly structured and quite full in body, making it pleasant to drink on its own or with mild cheese. If you like soft rich styles of Australian Shiraz and want to try something different, this should be on your ‘buy list’. (MT)

Spain: White Wine

**** drink now
Cachazo Carrasviňas ‘Rueda Verdejo’ 2007
DO Rueda, Castilla y Leon $14.95 (082703)
Verdejo, a grape originally from North Africa, forms at least 85% of this wine. This will be sure to please white wine-lovers looking for something different. The nose features mandarin fruits and green bananas, with some buttery sweetness and floral character. It’s zesty in the mouth with a light body and very good balance. It’s best enjoyed with grilled calamari in fresh lemon. Excellent value. (MT)

***1/2 drink now
Cristo De La Vega El Yugo 2007
DO La Mancha $14.95 (103507)
Here’s yet another unique style made from the Airén grape, indigenous to the La Mancha region. The nose is reminiscent of a Muscat, with explosive aromas of orange blossom, peach and lemons. On the palate there’s moderate acidity with a light body, decent length and a pleasing grapey character. With its weight and structure, this will work nicely with freshly shucked oysters. (MT)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink now
Bestué de Otto Finca Rableros 2006
DO Somontano $17.95 (0094862)
Deep ruby and juicy, prepare to be wowed by this 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo. Black fruit, plum, cherry and raspberry all make an appearance on the nose and spill over onto the palate. Dry and pronounced, it’s medium to full bodied with fresh acidity, moderate tannins and 13.5% alcohol. Try this tasty drop with a grilled flat iron steak with garlic sautéed rapini. (LG)

**** drink now
Cosme Palacio Y Hermanos ‘Reserva’ 2004
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (0014662)
This winery, founded in 1894, sports one of the largest barrel cellars in the region. It re-invented itself some 20 years ago by incorporating new world and traditional wine-making techniques. Spending a total of 18 months in French oak, this liquorice-packed beauty is medium-plus bodied and fresh on the palate with smooth tannins, 13.5% alcohol and boysenberry, earth and savoury spice flavours. (LG)

New in the LCBO

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley $19.90 (572875)
This opens with an enticing and aromatic nose of black pepper, jammy ripe mulberry and chocolate. It’s medium to full bodied with an agreeable tannin structure and a very generous texture. The flavours are rich, succulent and warm (14.5% alcohol)—black juicy Bing cherry and dark bittersweet chocolate. It’s a match made in heaven with rack of lamb. It’s deftly balanced and remains one of the consistent bargains in the LCBO, deserving of being a Vintages Essentials wine. (VH)

New in Consignment

****1/2 drink or cellar
McManis Family Vineyards Petite Sirah 2007
California $19.95
Big, bold and bursting with flavour, this full-bodied and generously textured behemoth (think spicy well-textured Zinfandel) offers up spiced berry fruit and hints of smoke on the lifted nose. The warm sweet (14.5% alcohol) rich and juicy flavours include mulberry, black Bing cherry and gobs of black currant jam. The finish rolls on forever along with a layering of rich dark chocolate. Pair this with spicy smoked and grilled back ribs. For daily delivery to your home or office by the case in Eastern Ontario, e-mail Lauren at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and elsewhere in Ontario via www.robgroh.com. (VH)

Cheers, Mark and Lindsay

 

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar