Winecurrent
November 8th, 2008 Vintages Release

Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections. There are also many more wines reviewed that are accessible to Ontario residents through various channels and widely available in most provinces and many countries in the world.

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with a feature on Bordeaux wines. Red wines from the western or ‘left bank’ of the Gironde River (and tributaries, Dordogne and Garonne) are blends that are predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, generally more powerful and longer ageing. Reds from the ‘right bank’ are blends that are predominantly Merlot, generally ‘softer’ and more approachable when young. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

We’re keenly interested in what you have to say! Winecurrent receives many comments on the newsletter; see the ‘What Our Subscribers Say’ on the www.winecurrent.com website. We’d like to publish those that reflect your thoughts. Please send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

  • How well does ice wine age? Mountain Road Winery provided a six-year vertical—1999 to 2004—of their Vidal ice wine for our tasting panel. They have the answer and so will you when you Read more...
  • You’ll find a wide selection of highly-rated muscular, full-bodied and age-worthy reds in the California, Australia and Italy sections.
  • Finding Waldo, after the Main Release, you’ll find many interesting wines, one a 4 star for under ten dollars.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Bordeaux: Left Bank Reds

***** cellar
Château de Pez 2005
AOC St-Estèphe $63.95 (0717389)
This claret has a deep gem-ruby colour with a sexy nose of exotic spice, black pepper, pomegranate, raspberry, blackberry, cassis and game. It’s full and curvaceous with moderate acidity, a reasonable 13% alcohol, defined tannins and a long finish. This wine will be approaching its peak in 3-5 years. Because of its firm structure, the fattiness of a juicy ribeye would complement it nicely, toning down the tannins. (LG)

****1/2 cellar
Château Malartic-Lagravière 2005
AOC Pessac-Léognan $77.95 (0502179)
Beautiful floral aromas on the nose are complemented by black fruit notes. It’s dry and medium to full on the palate with balanced acidity, 13.5% alcohol and firm tannins. There are complex cassis, blackberry, black cherry, earth and spice flavours. This wine deserves another half-decade in the cellar if you wish to catch its best performance. (LG)

**** drink now
Château du Tertre 1996 Grand Cru Classé
AOC Margaux $95.95 (0072132)
Despite their 5th growth ranking, Du Tertre produces wines that show a great pedigree. The 1996, although very interesting and well made, is on its way out. With complex tertiary aromas of soy, sweet balsamico, dried wood, preserved vegetables, earth, prune and spice, it is full bodied with 12.5% alcohol, silky tannins and good length on the finish. This is worth it if you are looking to gain insight as to how a decent Bordeaux will age, but otherwise the money is probably better spent on a younger bottle. (LG)

Bordeaux: Right Bank Reds

****1/2 drink now
G. Arpin ‘Château Franc-Maillet’ 2000
AOC Pomerol $51.95 (0072322)
Located in the extreme Eastern part of Pomerol, this offering shows enticing aromas of spice, cherry, blackberry, cassis, mulberry and plum predominate. It’s full bodied and pronounced, with a velvety texture, 13% alcohol and a long finish. This wine will sit for another 2-3 years, but I would recommend taking advantage of its current level of development. This mellowed Merlot-based wine would be exceptional alongside pheasant roasted with shallots, carrots and sweet potatoes. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Château Hauchat La Rose 2004
AOC Fronsac $23.95 (0086611)
A deep ruby colour with a copper tinge on the rim, the seductive bouquet is composed of black cherry, cassis, spice, and plump blackberry notes. Dry and full bodied with 13% alcohol, the tannins are firm with flavours carrying onto the long finish. This is a great value wine and will last for another 2-4 years. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Château la Couronne 2005
AOC Saint-Émilion $30.95 (0606640)
Deep ruby-purple in colour, the nose is rather mild with notes of cherry, cassis, blackberry, raspberry and cocoa. It’s dry, full bodied and 12.5% alcohol with firm tannins and pepper and spice coming across on the finish. Try with roasted quail stuffed with black truffle, barley and field mushrooms with a port reduction. (LG)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château Haut-Chaigneau ‘Cuvée Prestige’ 2005
AOC Lalande de Pomerol $33.95 (0087650)
This is spicy pepper and black fruit on the nose, with a dry and full-bodied palate. Moderate tannins and 14.5% alcohol give way to a bitter cocoa finish. Not a long-cellaring wine, but will stand another couple of years. Partner it with a provimi veal tenderloin with roasted potatoes. (LG)

**** drink now
Château la Papeterie 2000
AOC Montagne St-Émilion $29.95 (0087759)
The medium garnet colour of this wine divulges its age, as do the tertiary aromas of molasses, soy, dried cassis, pepper and vegetal notes. Dry and medium to full bodied with 13% alcohol, the velvety tannins give this wine a lovely texture. Rabbit sautéed with shitake mushrooms, parsnips and deglazed with brandy would be a good match. (LG)

***1/2 drink now
Christian Moueix Saint-Émilion 2005
AOC Saint-Émilion $22.95 (0979955)
This is a relatively simple wine with notes of blackberry, cassis and faint floral perfume. On the palate this medium- to full-bodied wine is 13.5% alcohol with velvety tannins and moderate acidity. This may be a good choice if you’re looking for a straightforward red that will not overwhelm a more complicated dish. (LG)

Bordeaux: Regional Reds

***1/2 drink now
Château de Roques Merlot 2005
AOC Premières Côtes de Bordeaux $17.95 (0087726)
Look for bright cherry fruit along with cassis, blackberry and mulberry. A basic Bordeaux, it is dry and medium to full bodied with 13.5% alcohol and velvety tannins. Fairly simple, but a great buy for an everyday red. Because of its softer tannins, this is a versatile food wine and would pair with anything from roasted chicken to hamburgers. (LG)

**** drink now
Château Ducla 2005
Bordeaux Supérieur $15.95 (162461)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The involved and expressive aromas include exotic herbs and spice, dark berry fruit, tar and black licorice. This Cabernet / Merlot blend delivers sweet warm fruit flavours—black currant, Bing cherry and black Damson plum—that are ably supported by a ripe and supple tannin structure. Medium in body and generously textured, it's ready to drink now and sports a lingering well-balanced finish. There's good value here. (VH)

Bordeaux: Dry Whites

***** drink now
Château de Rochemorin Blanc 2006
AOC Pessac-Leognan $29.95 (0091371)
This beautiful blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc flaunts attractive notes of apple, vanilla, pineapple, mango and mineral. Dry and surprisingly full with 12.5% alcohol, ripe fruit flavours and crisp acidity that leave the palate clean and refreshed. Try it with roasted halibut with a fruit salsa laced with Cointreau. (LG)

Bordeaux: Rosé

**** drink now
Château Lamothe de Haux Rosé 2007
AOC Bordeaux Clairet $15.95 (0684969)
With a striking medium pink sapphire colour, this very dry rosé has tons of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, red currant and red berry cocktail aromas. A blend of half-and-half Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, she’s not just a pretty face - this wine has some substance with 12% alcohol and great acidity which makes it very versatile as a food wine. (LG)

Bordeaux: Dessert Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Vignoble Famille Dubourdieu ‘Château Suau’ 2005, 2ième Cru Classé
AOC Sauternes $19.95 (0086835) 375ml
Flirty aromas of honey, white flowers, lemon, nectarine and meringue on the nose. Sweet and medium to full bodied, the sugar content is harmoniously balanced with the fresh acidity and 14% alcohol, drawing to a close with lingering notes of peach and spice. (LG)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

**** drink now
Osborne Oloroso Medium Sherry 10 RF
Jerez $16.95 (087536)
An elegant enticing dry wine with which to greet guests, it also matches well to consommé or other broth soups containing mushrooms and/or wild rice. A gorgeous tawny colour in the glass, the aromas and flavours are all about raisins, nuts and that peculiar aroma common to all Sherry called ‘rancio’. It’s racy dry, drop-dead delicious and very good value. (VH)

Champagne

***1/2 drink now
Cattier ‘Chigny-Les-Roses’ Brut Premier Cru Champagne
Champagne, France $42.95 (919464)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Growers for over 300 years and producers for almost a hundred has taught them a thing or two. This has lovely floral and nutty aromas with a full-bodied structure and mouth feel. Beautiful nutty and toasty flavours marry well with the clean citrussy finish. Great balance and finesse with which to welcome your friends or pair with fowl or veal. Truly exceptional value. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Deutz Champagne ‘Classic Brut’
AOC Champagne $57.95 (0710038)
Medium straw in colour with a tinge of copper, this stunning Champagne shows notes of citrus, yeasty bread, apple, quince and floral/pollen. Bracing acidity on the palate cuts through the creamy texture and medium weight, resulting in a nicely balanced palate with 12% alcohol and a lengthy finish. (LG)

***** drink now
Taittinger Champagne ‘Brut’ 2002
AOC Champagne $87.95 (0989905)
A superb example of a vintage Brut, with an alluring fresh apple, pear, mineral and brioche bouquet. Dry on the palate with a medium body, 12.5% alcohol, excellent acid structure and a refreshing finish. If you are successful in hiding it from family and friends over the approaching holiday season, this wine has a promising life ahead of it. (LG)

Sparkling Wine

*** drink now
Nino Franco Prosecco Brut
DOC Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene $20.95 (349662)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Apple and citrus aromas and flavours flow through this light-bodied sparkler. The flavours are tight and tangy while the finish has oodles of cleansing citrus flavours that portend a gorgeous match to all manner of fish and sea food appetizers. Good, of course, to quaff on its own. (VH)

Ontario: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fielding Estate Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 (036202)
Full disclosure—I’m a big fan of well-balanced off-dry whites. Alluring aromas of lemon sherbet and mineral notes whoosh off the nose while the flavours that wash over the palate in lip-smacking waves include ripe pineapple, sweet and juicy nectarine plus crisp and refreshing citrus. The finish is lingering and full of tang making it the perfect partner to spicy seafood dishes like grilled prawns that were marinated in lime juice and chili peppers. This offers good value. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Reif Estate Vidal Icewine 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (544791) 200 mL
This is alluring golden amber in the glass with lifted and heady aromas of toffee, honeyed fruit and spice box. The flavour and texture is rich and unctuous, but incredibly well balanced due to deft winemaking techniques and the inherent nature of the high-in-acidity Vidal grape. It’s creamy in texture, sports flavours of honeyed pineapple and very ripe pit fruit on the palate and through to a lengthy satisfying finish. The perfect size for two or a reasonably priced gift, this offers full value and a great dessert wine. (VH)

Ontario: Red

***1/2 drink now
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Red Twisted’ 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (086918)
This is tightly focused and offers a taut stream of tart cherry, pomegranate and cranberry flavours. It’s light bodied and medium weight on the palate while the perceptible, but acceptable, tannin adds structure, interest and an opportunity to pair this with rare to medium-rare grilled meat or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

California: White

**** drink or cellar
Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay 2005
Chalone, Monterey County $36.95 (080226)
Intense musky, smoky, oaky and vanilla aromas roll off the glass. This offers a very lovely and well-balanced mouthful of delicious flavours with ripe apple, sweet Bosc pear and assorted tree fruit among them. The oak ageing was deftly and seamlessly integrated. It finishes lengthy and refreshing with a dollop of moderating citrus tang. Pour this alongside a roasted, stuffed, festive bird that’s served with the usual accompaniments. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Treana White Viognier/Marsanne 2007
Central Coast $30.95 (011247)
This is gargantuan; it’s aromatic, full of flavour, dense and weighty. The perfumed nose offers aromas of honeysuckle, toasted almond and exotic spice. It’s full bodied, fully textured and bursts with flavour—pineapple, melon and a salad bowl of sweet honeyed fruit. There’s enough acidity for balance and the finish lingers. This pairs extremely well with spicy crab cakes. (VH)

California: Red

**** drink or cellar
7 Deadly Zins 2006
Lodi $24.95 (059311)
California Zin lovers will want some of this as it’s full bodied, jammy and chockfull of dark succulent blackberry fruit. There are aromas and flavours of dark chocolate and black raspberry galore, with a ladleful of pie cherry tang for balance. The lengthy finish layers on more dark chocolate and mixed berry fruit flavours. This pairs perfectly with spicy dishes, vegetarian or meat, or rich meat stews like osso bucco. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Arrowood ‘Le Beau Mélange’ Syrah 2002
Sonoma Valley $29.95 (064550)
Unfined and unfiltered, the ‘Beau Mélange’—100% Syrah, but from four vineyards—is deep ruby in colour with lovely black fruit, cedar, chocolate, leather and sexy spice aromas. The luscious flavours include juicy black raspberry and warm sweet Bing cherry (15% alcohol) that intermingle with earthy and savoury nuances. It’s full bodied, generously textured with moderate tannins. The lingering luxurious finish is well balanced. Lindsay and I both loved this; we think you will, too. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Blackstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
California $15.00 (714816)
Involved aromas of aromatic bitters, black licorice and ripe berry fruit segue fruity lip-smacking flavours—kirsch liqueur, mocha and ripe Bing cherry. There’s also soft oak and a generous dollop of sour cherry tang to provide excellent balance. This Cabernet Sauvignon blend (11% Syrah and 1% Merlot) is medium to full bodied, nicely textured and sports a lingering finish. Delicious sipped on its own, it’s also a versatile food wine; try it with grilled red meats, gourmet sausage or lasagna. This punches well above its price—pick up an armful. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Decoy 2006
Napa Valley $36.95 (041343)
This has all its ducks in a row with a good deal going on. It’s medium bodied and fully textured, almost creamy. Lifted aromas of mixed spice, minty chocolate and vanilla introduce expressive flavours of cassis, espresso roast and ripe succulent mulberry fruit. It’s well balanced, has ripe supple tannin for structure and sports a fruit-forward finish. You won’t go wrong pouring this on its own or with a rare- to medium-rare grilled strip loin. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
J. Lohr ‘Los Osos’ Merlot 2006
Paso Robles $19.95 (027516)
There are just oodles of those rich, dark and concentrated aromas and flavours of bramble berry, black currant, black raspberry and dark cherry in this medium- to full-bodied and fully textured outstanding red. It’s also well balanced with moderating acidity on the palate and lingering finish. The tannin adds body and interest, but does not get in the way. As with many ‘Wine of the Month’ selections, this delivers exceptional value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Sonoma County $22.95 (226944)
This has distinctive aromas of exotic spice with gamy and earthy notes. The flavours are a delightful mélange of rich dark fruit, tart cherry and cassis with notes of toast and vanilla. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and delivers a well-balanced finish that layers on flavours of mocha and black plum compote. This pours well alongside roast beef or rack of lamb. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Waterstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $30.95 (004366)
From a boutique winery that goes the extra mile, the grapes were hand-picked and it spent 18 months in French oak—70% new. The expansive nose delivers spice box, earthy and espresso roast aromas while the flavours are delicious and dense—red and black currant, mulberry and minty Bing cherry. It’s medium in weight and texture, the oak is imperceptible—also the tannin—and the finish is well balanced, long and luxurious. (VH)

Oregon: Red

**** drink or cellar
Duck Pond Pinot Noir 2006
Willamette Valley $25.95 (427872)
Misty, cool climate Willamette is the promised land for new world Pinot Noir aficionados. An unusually warm dry ’06 vintage helped produce this. It delivers ripe fruit and it’s fully textured. It’s dripping with fruit-forward and well-balanced flavours. Look for a steady stream of heady Montmorency cherry, red currant and ripe pomegranate flavours to compliment the gamy earthy aromas. It’s medium in weight, generously textured and brings everything together on the deftly balanced and mouth-watering finish. It’s a no-brainer pairing this with smoked duck breast. (VH)

Argentina: Red

**** drink or cellar
Amancaya Gran Reserva Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $17.95 (016097)
Round, rich and robust, this manages to be ready to drink now and to offer good ageing potential. Full bodied and deftly balanced, the fruit flavours that wash in waves over the palate are in the dark sweet briary berry zone with an underpinning of ripe supple tannin and moderating tang and raciness. It finishes fruit forward and looking for a red meat match—beef tenderloin, grilled medium rare alongside a dollop of mayo infused with horseradish. (VH)

Chile: Red

**** drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle ‘Cuvée Alexandre’ Merlot 2006
Colchagua Valley $34.95 (459206)
Inky black in the glass, the perfumed aromas are redolent of freshly baked cherry clafouti and spiced black Damson plum. The flavours are quite concentrated—cassis and dark berry fruit—and delivered on a bed of firm tannin and moderating racy tang. It’s creamy in texture, full bodied, impeccably balanced and sports a lingering fruit-forward finish. All in all, it’s quite elegant. Drinking now, after a two hour aeration / decant, and on to 2012. (VH)

Australia: Red

****1/2 cellar
Anaperenna ‘By Ben Glaetzer’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $65.00 (072926)
Aussie icon Glaetzer strikes yet again with all the fruit for this cellar dweller sourced from the northern Barossa ‘Ebenezer’ district. Vanilla, spice box and toasty on the nose, this monster drips and oozes depth, concentration and teeth-staining fruit flavours—juicy dense black currant and ripe sweet cherry. The oak is still prevalent—fifteen months in French and American—and the tannin’s firm and persistent. It’s full bodied and generously textured with a lengthy aftertaste. Drink 2012 to 2020. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Grant Burge ‘Miamba’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa, South Australia $23.95 (725127)
There are perfumed aromas—leather, licorice and vanilla—along with a cornucopia of up-front fruit flavours that include mulberry, kirsch liqueur and chocolate-covered cherries. The oak has been seamlessly integrated and there’s just enough moderating acidity to provide good balance. The tannin is subtle and not obtrusive while the finish is lengthy and luxurious. Pop the cork and throw a rack of lamb on the barbie. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2006
South Australia $19.95 (468629)
This is a value-for-money, crowd-pleasing blend with lots to offer the canny shopper. There are rich and concentrated aromas and flavours galore with spiced black plum, black currant, cassis and mocha among them. It’s balanced, full bodied, generously textured and sports a lengthy fruity finish. Lovely on its own, it pairs well with grilled beef or lamb. (VH)

***** cellar
Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet/Shiraz 2005
South Australia $36.95 (309625)
When an experimental wine, this was stored in a shed, in bin number 389, and the name lives on—it’s also known as ‘poor man’s Grange’ and ‘baby Grange’. Exotic spice, dark chocolate and earthy on the nose, the complex and succulent flavours bathe the palate—cassis, mulberry, Bing cherry and more dark chocolate. It’s medium bodied, perceptibly tannic, well structured, nicely textured and continues to deliver through the lingering finish. You’ll find this in the ‘Excellent’ category of the increasingly popular Langton’s Classification. This is ‘must buy’, if your budget allows. Drink 2012 to 2020 (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pirramimma Petit Verdot 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (986752)
Twenty-year-old vines and Australia’s largest producer of this varietal coalesce in a medium- to full-bodied and generously textured gem. Savoury and dark berry fruit roll off the glass while the flavours are delivered in a luscious and endless stream—savoury spice, ripe black currant and moderating red cherry. It’s well balanced, beautifully sculpted, offers a lengthy finish and flirted with 5 stars. Pair this with grilled garlic- and rosemary-rubbed rare- to medium-rare lamb tenderloins. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Tatachilla Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $21.95 (080689)
The nose is quite subtle, giving up aromas of plum compote and spice. The flavours are marked by generous dollops of racy tang that are delivered by tart pie cherry and cranberry. It finishes medium in length and with some herbaceous and red licorice notes. This is a food wine that would pair well with pasta in a rich tomato-based sauce like spaghetti Bolognese. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Torbreck ‘The Steading’ 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $48.95 (723890)
This Rhône-styled GSM blend delivers an involved and perfumed nose—red berry fruit, spice-infused briary berry and prominent savoury notes. The tannins are dusty, but supple while the flavours are quite robust with sweet ripe boysenberry and rich dark cherry to the fore. It’s medium-bodied and nicely textured with a well-balanced finish of fruit flavours tempered with good moderating acidity. It’s pricey, but worth a place in your cellar. Drink now, after a three-hour aeration / decant and on to 2016. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Torbreck ‘Woodcutter’s’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $26.95 (927533)
The fruit for this was hand harvested then left unfined and unfiltered before bottling, accounting for the complex and rich flavours. Rich and herbaceous on the nose, the palate is treated to a gusher of bramble berry and black raspberry flavours nicely moderated and balanced by a ladleful of tart pie cherry. It’s full-bodied and generously textured delivering a lengthy and luxurious finish. The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour. (VH)

New Zealand: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island $20.95 (010421)
The pungent aromas of nettles, gooseberry and passion fruit point the way clearly to Marlborough without the need of a mariner’s astrolabe. This is one of those Wow! wines that burst on the palate with a wave of citrus and pineapple flavours and bracing acidity. It’s medium bodied, creamy textured and finishes crisp and refreshing with layers of flavours—ripe citrus, gooseberry and herbaceous notes. Pan-seared scallops or prawn ceviche would be the go. (VH)

France: White

**** drink now
Zeyssolff Riesling Réserve Particulière 2006
AOC Alsace $19.95 (080440)
Very perfumed aromas of exotic spice, slate and citrus zoom off the nose while the flavours are a delicious mélange with yellow peach, ripe lemon and green apple most prominent. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and delivers a steady stream of moderating acidity through the lengthy finish. This is looking to be poured alongside an Alsatian onion tart in order to be truly showcased. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Antonin Rodet Puligny-Montrachet 2006
AOC Burgundy $53.95 (084541)
This exhibits good typicity for this exalted region with its full flavours and aromatic mineral attributes. Aromas of citrus and mineral segue a fully textured and medium weight mouthful of delicious flavours with Mirabelle plum, Granny Smith apple and ripe lemon-lime tang to the fore. This is complex, elegant and perfectly balanced with a lingering finish. Burgundy lovers should consider picking up three or more. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Coudolet de Beaucastel Blanc 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône $33.95 (048892)
The nose is quiet—subtle aromas and nuances of floral notes, slate and citrus—while the flavours are in the crisp and refreshing zones with citrus and white peach prominent. It’s medium in weight and texture with a lengthy dry finish of pit fruit—pear, apple and peach. This pairs well with lightly herbed or delicately spiced chicken, veal or pork dishes. (VH)

France: Red

Beaujolais

**** drink now
Louis Jadot ‘Château des Lumières’ Morgon 2006
AOC Morgon $27.95 (0653584)
100% Gamay, Morgon is one of the ten Crus of the Beaujolais region. There is bright red fruit on the palate with an underlying earthiness. The impressive tannin structure is complemented by lively acidity, 13% alcohol and aromas of cherry, red berries and cassis on a medium-bodied frame. A great accompaniment to charcuterie. (LG)

Burgundy

**** drink or cellar
Antonin Rodet Gevrey-Chambertin 2005
AOC Gevrey-Chambertin $42.95 (0084558)
Very pretty and feminine in style, this Pinot has alluring notes of cherry candy, red currant, berries and earth. It’s medium to full bodied with bright acidity, 13.1% alcohol and fine tannin structure. Good intensity of fruit is carried onto the palate showing additional complexity with added layers of spice and light smoke. (LG)

Rhône Valley

**** drink or cellar
Cave de Tain Crozes Hermitage ‘Fine Fleur de Crozes’ 2005
AOC Crozes Hermitage $22.95 (0076380)
Deep ruby in colour, the nose is a cornucopia of aromas including cassis, earth, animal, white pepper, cherry and blackberry. Great purity of fruit is found on its medium-bodied palate with velvety tannins, balanced acidity and 12.5% alcohol. With its ample intensity and richness, this wine pairs well with fuller, meaty dishes. (LG)

****1/2 cellar
Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $47.95 (0968750) 375ml
With a reputation for long-lived wines, Beaucastel is the only estate to use all 13 Châteauneuf-du-Pape varieties. The blend is a majority Mourvèdre (30%) and Grenache (30%) with smaller proportions of Syrah (10%), Cinsault (5%), Vaccarese (5%) and Muscardin (5%). The balance is made up of tiny amounts of the seven remaining cépages. This particular vintage is still in its infancy, with aromas of earth, spice, mineral, truffle, peppercorn, cassis, mushroom, cherry and game. This is dry and medium to full bodied with 14% alcohol, notable acidity and restrained, good quality tannins. This is a wine that should be forgotten about for quite some time and will develop the distinctive complexity and richness with maturity. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Beaucastel ‘Coudoulet de Beaucastel Rouge’ 2006
AOC Côtes du Rhône $30.95 (0048884)
The second label of Beaucastel, Coudoulet (a.k.a. baby Beaucastel) is a great alternative to its higher-priced sibling. With notes of black cherry, spice, leather, cassis, earth and musk, its medium- to full-bodied palate is held together by fine tannins, notable acidity and 14% alcohol. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $41.95 (0043026)
Aromas of kirsch, cassis, leather, pepper and wet earth abound, with a rich medium- to full-bodied palate. Dry with tangy acidity and 14% alcohol, its moderate tannins will help it to age for several years to come. A great wine to go with Châteaubriand with mushroom duxelle and a Rossini sauce. (LG)

Southwest

**** drink now
Château Haut-Monplaisir ‘Prestige’ 2004
AOC Cahors $20.95 (0936534)
Very concentrated in both colour and flavours, this is a bottle to crack open in the near future. Plush, sweet aromas of kirsch, cassis, mulberry, and blackberry on the nose are followed by animal, game, vanilla, smoke and mineral echoes on the palate. It’s dry and full bodied with 13.5% alcohol, medium acidity and velvety tannins. (LG)

Germany: White

**** drink or cellar
Dr. H. Thanisch Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2004
QmP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $19.95 (085076)
This value-packed Riesling is off-dry and right on the money. Expansive and richly textured, expect alluring aromas of incense and spice-infused citrus while the glorious gusher of flavours include sweet tropical fruit—ripe pineapple and honeydew melon—and racy hits of bracing citrus acidity. It produces that perfectly balanced sweet and tang that allows it to be paired with spicy Asian cuisine, especially seafood. (VH)

Greece: Red

***1/2 drink now
Costa Lazaridi ‘Amethystos Red’ 2006
Regional Dry Wine of Drama $23.95 (0724831)
This is very inky purple in colour with dusty, baked black fruit aromas. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blended with the local Limnio variety, it’s dry and full-ish bodied with 14% alcohol and somewhat harsh acidity and tannins. A little spice, pepper and restrained floral character on the palate are followed by a heated, bitter finish. (LG)

Italy: Red

Abruzzo

***1/2 drink now
Terra d’Aligi Tatone Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2004
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 (994616)
(The Vintages catalogue and review lists the 2005, but the bottle presented for tasting was a 2004.) Verify the vintage at purchase. It’s medium bodied and medium weight with good balance. Warm sweet fruit flavours (14% alcohol) of dark berry fruit intermingle with dusty tannins and a dry, clean and refreshing finish of tart Montmorency cherry and cranberry. Pair this with pasta puttanesca. (VH)

Piedmont

****1/2 cellar
Massolino Barolo 2004
DOCG Barolo $58.95 (0011205)
Medium garnet in colour, the bouquet is composed of nuances of raisin, fig, prune, red currant, cherry, earth, truffle and tobacco. Dry and full bodied with 14% alcohol, the soft fruit on the palate is contrasted with structured acidity and tannin. This is balanced and very sophisticated with a long, regal finish. (LG)

****1/2 cellar
Terre da Vino Barolo ‘Essenze’ 2003
DOCG Barolo $44.95 (0092460)
This opens with funky aromas of earth, mushroom, red currant, fig, cocoa and ripe fruit. It’s more of a floral theme on the palate, with taut acidity, 14% alcohol, fine tannins and a medium to full body. Prune, nuts and figs are ensued by a bitter cocoa finish. A perfect match would be homemade tagliatelle with white truffle, wild mushroom and pulled braised boar. (LG)

Tuscany

**** drink or cellar
Marchesi de Frescobaldi ‘Mormoreto Castello di Nipozzano’ 2005
IGT Toscana $59.95 (0951210)
A solid Tuscan IGT with leather, cherry, cassis, spice and cocoa notes. This is dry and full bodied with 14 % alcohol, moderate acidity and grippy, fine-grained tannins followed by a long finish. It’s a Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2003
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $59.95 (0922054)
Despite a mature, deep garnet colour, this is a Brunello that will last through the next decade. It’s dry and medium to full bodied with sour red cherry acidity, fine tannins and a robust 14.5% alcohol. The roll call of flavours include raisin, prune, red currant, leather, spice, clove, earth and dried berries. (LG)

****1/2 cellar
Tenementi Angelini Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2003
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $51.95 (0713719)
There are interesting aromas of raisin, cured meat, bacon, prune, spice and fig on the nose. Dry and medium to full bodied with 14.5% alcohol, stately tannins will continue to hold the wine’s shape, supported by its structured acidity. (LG)

Veneto

**** drink now
Remo Farina Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2005
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $16.95 (999946)
Rich, spicy and earthy on the nose, this shifts into overdrive on the palate with a blast of sweet succulent boysenberry and cassis fruit flavours. There are also nuances of bacon, savoury notes and dense black licorice and tar. It’s medium to full bodied, generously textured and delivers a well-balanced finish. Sip on its own or pair with grilled red meats. The price-quality balance is tipped well in your favour, pick up a few. (VH)

**** drink now
Tenuta Sant’Antonio ‘Monti Garbi’ Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2005
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $21.95 (029850)
Rustic aromas of smoky bacon, dried crushed berry and incense give way to rich and concentrated flavours of dark bramble berry, cassis and prune plum. This is a big wine, full bodied, richly textured and full flavoured. The finish lingers layering on pleasant aromatic bitters and espresso roast flavours. It’s a bit pricey, but still good value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004
DOC AmaroneValpolicella Classico $27.95 (980128) 375 mL
Aromas of toasty oak and sweet vanilla extract waft from the glass. Sweet warm (15% alcohol) dense and complex flavours of cassis, black currant jam and ripe juicy Bing cherry ooze from this full-bodied and creamy-textured beauty. It’s well balanced and lip-smacking good right through the endless finish. It’s advertised as a convenient half-bottle size, but I’ll bet you’ll wish you’d bought two. (VH)

Portugal: White

**** drink or cellar
Quinta da Alorna Reserva Arinto/Chardonnay 2006
Vinhos Regional Ribatejano $17.95 (081515)
There’s good ripe fruit and racy zippy acidity for balance in this medium-bodied good-value white blend. Look for ripe binned apple and sweet peach compote flavours juxtaposed perfectly with ripe lemon tang on the palate and the crisp and refreshing finish. This is nicely textured and looking for roast chicken or spiced and grilled prawns. (VH)

Portugal: Red

**** drink now
DFJ Vinhos Grand’Arte Touriga Nacional 2005
Vinhos Regional Estremadura $14.95 (0925131)
Expect a vibrant, concentrated deep ruby-purple colour along with yummy aromas of chocolate, supple leather, kirsch, blueberry and jammy fruit. This is dry and pronounced with a medium body, 13.5% alcohol, smooth tannins and moderate acidity. It’s drinking nicely right now and offered at a very reasonable price point. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
V. Leite de Faria Gloria ‘Colheita Seleccionada Tinto’ 2004
DOC Douro $18.95 (0082933)
A blend of 50% Tinto Roriz, 40% Touriga Nacional and 10% Touriga Franca, this medium- to full-bodied wine showcases notes of tar, earth, leather, cherry, blackberry and cassis. With 13% alcohol and rounded tannins, it’s good to drink over the next 2-3 years. (LG)

Spain: White

*** drink now
Conde de Valdemar White 2006
DOCa Rioja $18.95 (080952)
This opens with a fragrant nose of citrus and floral notes then offers a good stream of flavours redolent of spice box, crisp and tangy citrus plus nuances of green tea. It’s medium in weight and texture finishing crisp, clean and somewhat brief. Pan-seared scallops and prawns under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon help showcase this wine. (VH)

Spain: Red

**** drink or cellar
La Báscula ‘Turret Fields’ Monastrell/Syrah 2005
DO Jumilla $15.95 (082123)
Rich and rustic, the aromas of cloves, coffee, church incense and earthy notes segue fruit flavours of tart red cherry, mulberry and black raspberry that are underpinned by perceptible tannin and carried along in a fully textured mouth feel. It’s medium bodied and as the picture on the label suggests—La Báscula means balance—it’s quite well balanced. Aerate / decant for a couple of hours and serve alongside strip loin, grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages release: March 28, 2009

****1/2 drink now
Evans and Tate Chardonnay 2006
Margaret River, Australia $19.95 (677765)
This is from a lengthy cool vintage that was tough on reds, but magic for quality whites. The expansive nose offers up smoky, nutty, vanilla and tropical fruit aromas. Most of those aromas are from the seamlessly integrated oak regimen—1/2 new French and the other half in one-year-old barrels. There’s a pronounced and persistent attack of rich tropical fruit with sweet pineapple and ripe melon to the fore. There’s also deft balance that’s supplied by a focused citrus tang. It’s medium weight, generously textured and sports a lingering finish. Give this a go with roast turkey or chicken, savoury dressing and all the fixings. (VH)

Classics Catalogue: Winter 2009

****1/2 cellar
Peter Lehmann ‘Stonewell’ Shiraz 2002
Barossa Valley, Australia $76.00 (724625)
The 2002 vintage was an accountant’s nightmare—very low yields—and a wine-lovers dream—concentrated juicy ripe fruit. Licorice, oak tar and minty notes on the aromatic nose, the rich concentrated flavours are redolent of cassis, tart pie cherry and black briary berry that are in the very firm hand of a perceptible tannin structure. It’s medium-plus bodied and quite nicely textured with exquisite balance. The finish adds another dollop of moderating acidity and dark chocolate setting this up for bar b cued back ribs slathered in a spicy tomato-based sauce, but you’ll have to wait a bit. Drink 2014 to 2024. (VH)

New in Vintages

**** drink or cellar
Tedeschi Amarone delle Valpolicella Classico 2004
DOC Amarone delle Valpolicella Classico, Italy $44.95 (433417)
You’ll find ripe sweet (15.5% alcohol) fruit-forward flavours galore in this perennial favourite and well-priced red. Fig, spice and dark raisin on the aromatic nose, they’re a clarion call for the similar flavours to follow. It’s fully textured and layers on espresso roast and cassis flavours on the lingering finish. This is a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Australia

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Barossa Valley $19.95 (91686)
Mint, aromatic bitters and mixed field berry on the nose, the luscious flavours are all about minty, chocolately dark berry fruit, warm (14.5% alcohol) spiced black plum compote and racy zesty pie cherry. The tannin’s firm and it’s very nicely textured. There’s a generous ladleful of zest and tang on the dry clean finish. Always offering good value, this pairs beautifully with grilled red meats. (VH)

**** drink now
Peter Lehmann ‘Clancy’s Red’ 2005
Barossa Valley $18.95 (611467)
Food friendly, easy drinking and always a crowd pleaser, this blend—primarily Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a touch of Cabernet Franc—opens with expressive aromas of tar, black licorice and black pepper. It’s medium bodied, smooth as silk and delivers a richly concentrated stream of sweet black currant, cassis and mulberry flavours. There’s an underpinning of ripe supple tannin and good moderating acidity. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley $19.90 (572875)
Well made, well priced and well... delicious. Aromas of black currant, black pepper and exotic spice segue rich and concentrated flavours of luscious sweet mulberry, chocolate and black briary berry fruit. It’s medium weight, creamy textured and delivers an exceedingly lengthy, well-balanced and fruit-forward finish. There’s enough flavour, acidity and oomph from ripe supple tannin to ensure optimum drinking now to 2016. It flirted with 5 stars and deserves your attention. (VH)

Italy

**** drink now
Casal Thaulero Pinot Grigio 2006
IGT Osco $9.95 (73163)
Mineral, floral and pit fruit—peach and pear—on the nose, this really delivers on the palate. There’s wave after wave of white grapefruit, lemon-lime and white peach flavours that are delivered on a light- to medium-bodied stream. It finishes balanced and lengthy. Gorgeous sipped on its own before the main arrives—spaghetti alla vongole allows this wine to really show its stuff. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Casal Thaulero Sangiovese 2007
IGT Terre di Chieti $7.10 (588996)
From the grape, Sangiovese, that made Chianti famous, this delivers a focused and steady stream of bright red fruit flavours—cherry, currant and cranberry. It’s medium in weight and texture and has some dusty tannin that adds interest and structure. There’s good balance and the finish adds a dollop of tart cherry tang. It’s bistro-styled, exceptionally well priced and pairs well with meat-laden pizza and lasagna. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Cavit Pinot Noir 2006
IGT Provincia di Pavia $11.95 (70904)
This punches well above its price and offers an honest mouthful of delicious red wine that works with a wide variety of food. It delivers a solid core of flavour with spiced black plum, red cherry and earthy notes on a medium-weight and nicely textured frame. Finishing balanced and fruit forward, this pairs easily with grilled salmon, pasta in a seafood marinara sauce or veal and chicken dishes. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Rocca delle Macie ‘Vernaiolo’ Chianti 2007
DOCG Chianti $13.80 (269589)
Aromas of mineral, savoury herbs and strawberry roll off the glass of this Tuscan red blend—85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Merlot. Flavours of red cherry, ripe cranberry and sweet pomegranate intermingle with nuances of red licorice and tobacco. It’s well balanced, food friendly and delivers a dry finish. Pair this with pasta in a simple marinara sauce. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

How well does ice wine age? Mountain Road Winery provided a six-year vertical—1999 to 2004—of their Vidal ice wine for our tasting panel. They have the answer and so will you when you Read more...

****1/2 drink now
Konzelmann ‘4th Generation’ Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.50
Mineral, floral and vanilla aromas float off the glass of this beauty that’s quite expressive yet light on its feet. It’s medium bodied and reasonably textured with a delicious stream of crisp fruit flavours—yellow peach, sweet ripe pear, apple and citrus. Deftly balanced and beautifully sculpted, it’s not over oaked or over blown. It finishes zesty clean and lip-smacking good. Pair this with chicken or turkey a la king. If you’re looking for good value, look no further. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Konzelmann ‘Grand Reserve Classic’ Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.00
Lifted aromas of floral and ripe tree fruit—peach, nectarine and apple—showcase the fabulous ’07 vintage in Niagara. There’s generous texture, deft balance and a gusher of flavours with white peach, ripe citrus and nuances of minerality involved. It finishes with a lingering aftertaste that’s crisp, clean and refreshing. Pan-seared scallops and prawns under a drizzle garlic-infused lemon butter is a divine match. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)

Consignment Wines


****1/2 cellar
Mount Langi Ghiran ‘Langi’ Shiraz 2005
Grampian, Victoria, Australia $45.95 (56028)
Their flagship wine; it’s deep dark purple in the glass with aromas of toasty oak—French, ½ new, ½ one-year old—and dark berry fruit. Layers of flavours, rich and complex, include sweet ripe mulberry (15.5% alcohol), black currant and black Damson plum with hints of black pepper and savoury spice. It’s elegant, medium bodied, generously textured with a firm tannin structure. The finish is lengthy and perfectly balanced with generous cherry tang and zest. Drink 2010 to 2016. You’ll find this in the ‘Excellent’ category of the vaunted Langton’s Classification. This offers a world of value. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Kylix Wines 905-882-1999 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Parker Coonawarra Estate ‘Terra Rossa First Growth’ Cabernet Merlot 2005
Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia $69.00 (60236)
It’s rated ‘Outstanding’—just under Grange—in the premium Aussie-wine Langton’s Classification. This muscular blend—91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot—was aged 19 months in new French oak. It’s still tightly focused sporting grippy tannins along with generous fruit flavours—sweet cassis (14.7% alcohol) and tart pie cherry, There are dollops of moderating acidity plus a lengthy well-balanced finish. Drink 2014 to 2020. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Kylix Wines 905-882-1999 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Lindsay

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar