August 2, 2008 Vintages Release

Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begin with a feature on South Africa, that was, apparently, lost (who knew?), but is now rediscovered, followed by a feature on far south French wine regions Midi and Provençe. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

  • You'll find a number of terrific wines that are value priced in the South Africa Rediscovered feature
  • There are three red wines from Australia and two Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand that demand your attention
  • Check out the Argentina red with 4 stars at $12.95 and the stunning Ripasso with 4 ½ stars for under $20 in Italy: Red
  • The New in the LCBO and Consignment Wine sections both have noteworthy wines for value shoppers and discriminating buyers—a wine from 100 year-old-plus vines, another with food-trodden grapes, yet another with 4½ stars at $14.15
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

South Africa Rediscovered Feature

White

**** drink or cellar
L'Avenir Chenin Blanc 2007
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (072645)
This is crisp, refreshing and extremely well balanced. Delicate floral and distinctive green apple aromas emanate from this medium-textured light- to medium-bodied dry white. Sweet yellow peach and nectarine are the perfect foil to the tang and zest provided by the citrus flavour. The finish is clean and refreshing, setting it up as lovely partner with pan-seared freshwater fish under a squeeze of lemon. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Boschendal 'Reserve Collection' Sauvignon Blanc 2007
WO Coastal Region $16.95 (082438)
Expressive and pungent herbaceous aromas of newly mown grass and nettles rip off the glass of this well-priced medium-bodied gem. It carries its spine of bracing acidity via generous ripe lemon and pink grapefruit flavours. There's good texture, a lengthy crisp finish and versatility in food pairing—grilled prawns, pan-seared scallops and white fish will all work well, especially under a squirt of fresh lemon. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Bouchard Finlayson Sauvignon Blanc 2007
WO Walker Bay $18.95 (701540)
Light to medium bodied and nicely textured, this delivers a nose of bell pepper and grassy notes. There is plentiful lemony citrus tang on the palate and medium-length finish. This is perfectly paired with crumbled and grilled goat cheese over mesculan salad in light vinaigrette. (VH)

Rosé

**** drink now
Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2007
WO Stellenbosch $12.95 (999821)
Not quite as meaty as the '04 Rosé from this producer, but still as charming and flavourful. Light to medium bodied and medium textured, this oozes red fruit flavours that express good acidity—ripe rhubarb, red pie cherries, cranberry and pomegranate. The medium length finish adds some flavour notes of spice, and ripe black Bing cherry—the delicious sweet ones now in stores. Chill this as you would a white wine, to preserve the refreshing taste. (VH)

Red

***** drink or cellar
Nederburg 'Manor House' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
WO Western Cape $16.95 (68767)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Hand picked and hand sorted, the fruit for this stunning red was sourced from two premium dryland, low-yield vineyards in the Paarl region. While in Ontario, Chief winemaker Linley Schultz predicted a further five years of optimum drinking. Wisps of toast mingling with cherry and minty notes form the aromas while the gusher of fruit flavour includes boysenberry, cassis and minty mocha. The tannins are perceptible, but acceptable, the balance perfect and the gorgeous texture is silky smooth. It was fermented in open-top fermenters, received 12 to 14 months French oak ageing and was egg-white fined. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Stark-Condé Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (068460)
There's certainly a mélange of aromas and interesting flavours here. It runs the full gamut from taut and tight racy acidity to sweet berry fruit flavours. Zesty cranberry and sour cherry flavours along with sweet black raspberry are in the mix. The balanced finish is medium in length. It's light on its feet pairing with lighter food, a tomato and ham crust-less quiche, for instance. (VH)

**** drink now
Vergenoegd Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
WO Stellenbosch $23.95 (068445)
Seven years old and still going strong; a supple tannin structure and an abundance of fruit are still present. The enticing sweet aromas are reminiscent of dessert, cherry clafouti and black plum compote. Medium bodied with a nice texture; the medium length finish is deftly balanced and fruity with ripe black cherry up front. Pair this with the South African specialty, bobotie—a curried meat dish. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
KWV 'Café Culture' Pinotage 2007
WO Western Cape $13.95 (072710)
This is a stunner—flavourful, interesting, well structured, tremendous value. The robust nose offers aromas of 'camp coffee', a liquid concentrate of coffee and chicory essences giving off slight aromas of tar, as well as coffee. The rich and concentrated flavours include mocha, ripe and juicy black berry, cassis and spice box. It's medium bodied and medium textured. The tenacious finish replays the previous flavours. Stop reading, pick up a case. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Long Mountain Reserve Pinotage 2007
WO Western Cape $13.95 (068742)
Subdued on the nose, look for toast and berry fruit aromas. This is light to medium bodied with a medium texture complementing the expressive and zesty cranberry and pie cherry flavours. The finish delivers some nuances of tobacco along with zingy freshly picked berry fruit—strawberry and blueberry. (VH)

**** drink now
Tukulu Pinotage 2005
WO Darling $21.95 (068700)
Spice and brioche aromas on the nose, this delivers a cornucopia of flavours—heady and racy red cherry, crisp cranberry and spiced black plum among them. You'll find enough sweet berry flavour, primarily black currant and bramble berry, on the finish to provide good balance and interest. The medium texture and body help pair this with something substantial, coq au vin will do nicely. (VH)

**** drink now
Man Vintners Shiraz 2006
WO Coastal Region $12.95 (071332)
With just enough tannin for structure and oodles of tarry black fruit, this is very attractive, especially given the price. Dark and juicy fruit in the bramble berry and cherry zones, with notes of tar (you either love it or...), are nicely underpinned by moderating acidity and supple tannin. There's deft balance and a gorgeous finish of Bing cherry, smoke and spice box. Worthy of serious consideration for a multiple purchase. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Nederburg 'Manor House' Shiraz 2006
WO Western Cape $16.95 (68775)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Complex and classy, look for lifted aromas of black pepper, spice box and tar that segue an elegant stream of flavours with juicy black plum compote and succulent black raspberry to the fore. There's supple texture, moderating tang, deftly integrated oak and a lengthy spicy and fruity finish. Sourced from Paarl and Philadelphia sub-regions, the two lots were vinified separately then meticulously blended. Pair this with rosemary-rubbed gigot of lamb. (VH)

**** drink now
Lomond Merlot 2005
WO Cape Agulhas $19.95 (068478)
Sweet ripe black plum and mixed spice on the nose, there's an explosion of flavours on the palate with more juicy and rich black plum, and ripe red cherry predominant. There's great balance, supple tannin for structure and interest along with medium weight and lovely texture. The finish is balanced and medium in length. Pair with crown roast of pork with roasted root vegetables. (VH)

France Feature

White

***1/2 drink now
Enseduna Marsanne 2006
Vin de Pays des Coteaux d'Ensérune $14.95 (079004)
If this wine was from its native home in northern Rhone, it would be twice this price. Exotic spice and almond aromas form the nose while the flavours are all about crisp acidity delivered through a gusher of lemony zest and tang. It's light to medium bodied with a wonderful texture, almost waxy. It's well balanced with a clean and refreshing finish. Sip on its own. (VH)

**** drink now
Terres Blanches Muscat Sec 2007
Vin de Pays d'Oc $14.95 (653188)
This is exceptionally expressive on the nose with heady aromas of rosewater and spice. Medium bodied and fully textured; there's a mélange of flavour—lychee, white peach, spice and citrus among them. It finishes with ripe pit fruit flavours. Serve well chilled on its own or with lighter fare, roast chicken or pan-seared veal. (VH)

Red

***1/2 drink now
Château de Serame Réserve du Château Rouge 2005
AOC Corbières $16.95 (051870)
Corbières is in the deep south of France bordering historic Carcassone producing blended wines, usually with a generous portion of Carignan. Toasty and spice box on the nose the flavours and texture are rustic combining spicy berry fruit and gamey notes within a perceptible tannin structure. It's well balanced with moderating acidity, fully textured sporting a persistent crisp and dry finish. If you agree to a pairing with ribs, brush with fiery BBQ sauce. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château Sainte-Eulalie La Cantiléne 2005
AOC Minervois La Livinière $22.95 (008839)
Black currant and black plum aromas drift from this medium-bodied and fully textured red. The explosion of flavours on the palate is delectable. Expect sweet cassis, ripe Bing cherry and boysenberry that are ably supported by good moderating zest and tang. The tannin is ripe and supple, but it's there providing structure. The tenacious finish is well balanced. Drink now to 2014. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine du Ministre Rouge 2005
AOC Saint-Chinian $15.95 (654558)
The ubiquitous Lurton brothers excel in producing value wines and this won't disappoint. It's silky smooth, quite fruity and very easy on the wallet. There are aromas and flavours of spice-infused black plum, black pepper, aromatic bitters and a lovely assortment of berry flavours with black currant and black raspberry predominat. Well balanced, this pairs with grilled red meats - steak or burgers. (VH)

Rosé

**** drink now
Bieler Père et Fils Sabine Rosé 2007
AOC Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence $12.95 (071423)
The bronze-pink colour certainly attracts attention. It's light to medium bodied with substantial texture. The flavours include red pie cherry, cranberry and spicy pomegranate. It's crisp, clean and lip-smacking good. It finishes dry with a ripe pink grapefruit flavour. Well made, well paced and well priced; pick up a few and serve well chilled, either on its own or with lighter appetizers like prawns or salmon. (VH)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

***1/2 drink now
Lustau Amontillado La Plaza Vieja Medium Golden Sherry Solera Reserva
DO Jerez $19.95 (699421)
Expressive aromas of orange zest, caramel and nutty nuances jump off this semi-sweet sherry. The moderating dollop of acidity provides great balance. It's light to medium textured, and a versatile food wine. Pair this with consommé. The flavours provide a rush of orange peel marmalade and burnt sugar while the finish is lengthy and surprisingly dry. (VH)

Canada: White

**** drink or cellar
Lailey Vineyard Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara River $17.95 (072736)
Wow! This really explodes on the nose and palate with a blast of delicious and heady aromas and flavours; there are floral and mineral notes on the nose intermingled with peach and citrus. The palate is treated to a gusher of lip-smacking sweet and zesty flavours with lemon-lime tang, sweet white peach and zingy green apple to the fore. It finishes clean and refreshing, but it's got the verve and the fruit to pair with spicy Asian. Had mine with spicy tandoori chicken and basmati rice with coriander - dee-licious. (VH)

Canada: Red

***1/2 drink now
Lailey Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
VQA Niagara River $24.95 (591370)
Derek Barnett's winemaking magic includes providing wine the best possible chance to improve with age, and this estate red's a perfect example. Toasty and earthy aromas meld with spice box and mint on the nose. Red berry fruit and red cherry flavours intermingle with slight hints of dried herbs (from a small amount of Cabernet Franc?). The finish is underpinned by berry fruit, supple tannin and moderating acidity. Pair this with Swiss steak and drink now to 2012. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Lailey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Niagara River $24.95 (591404)
Very tasty, clean and refreshing; this billows forth with heady aromas of spice, vanilla and cherries—a fine effort from a very challenging vintage. The flavours dance lightly on the palate, consisting of Montmorency cherry and ripe cranberry. The finish is a wonderful rush of zesty tang making it the perfect partner with smoked duck breasts. It's deftly balanced and not over-oaked. (VH)

U.S.A.: White

*** drink or cellar
Dry Creek Vineyard Chardonnay 2006
Russian River Valley, California $21.95 (986760)
Aromas of toasty oak and green apple provide segue to this light-bodied and light-textured wine. The flavours consist of Granny Smith apple and a river of citrus tang. There's good fruit on the finish—melon, pineapple and red grapefruit. Pair this with prawn kebabs drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon and butter. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc 2006
Sonoma County, California $22.95 (354993)
Subtle and nuanced aromas of mineral, citrus and flowers introduce this medium-bodied fully textured and very well-balanced Sauvignon Blanc. There's a delightful explosion on the palate of clean and refreshing zesty lemon and pineapple tang, intermingled with tropical fruit flavours. The finish is focused and tenacious. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Joseph Phelps Sauvignon Blanc 2006
St. Helena, Napa Valley, California $41.95 (034546)
Mineral and citrus aromas on the nose, you'll find this light to medium bodied and medium textured. There's a delightful spritz on the refreshing finish that's all about lemon zest and white grapefruit flavours. This would be a willing partner with steamed mussels in a white wine sauce. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2006
Sonoma County, California $19.95 (226936)
Apple, brioche and floral aromas set up this light- to medium-bodied, fully textured (almost creamy) Chard. There's a nicely balanced surge of spicy green apple, citrus and pit fruit flavours that extends through the medium-length finish. Pair this with roasted and stuffed chicken. (VH)

U.S.A.: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Artesa Reserve Tempranillo 2004
Alexander Valley, California $25.95 (067272)
This is one gorgeous wine. Look for an expressive nose of smoke, oak and red berry fruit then a glorious gusher of well balanced juice—rich black juicy cherry, cassis and succulent briary berry flavours. The mouth feel is silky smooth while the tannins are ripe and supple. It finishes lengthy and luxurious. Glorious sipped on its own, you'll revel in a pairing with rack of lamb. (VH)

**** drink now
Toasted Head Merlot 2005
North Coast, California $19.95 (969816)
A bear of a wine; look for rich and heady aromas and flavours throughout. There's toast and nutty aromas on the nose while the flavours are a cornucopia of ripe sweet black and red berry flavours that are nicely balanced with moderating acidity and underpinned with supple tannin for structure and interest. The medium-length finish layers on spicy notes and black plum flavour. Pair this with Beef Wellington. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Toasted Head Shiraz 2005
Dunnigan Hills, California $19.95 (042937)
Rich, sweet and jammy on the palate, look for copious amounts of toasty oak and vanilla aromas on the nose. Rich sweet bramble berry flavours are further enhanced with sweet black cherry and notes of mint. It's medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a lengthy fruit forward finish. Best paired with friends and food; pasta puttanesca would be divine. (VH)

Argentina: Red

**** drink now
Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2006
Mendoza $12.95 (640490)
Here's another sterling effort from Argentina that punches well above its price. Firm and focused, look for cherry and red berry fruit aromas and flavours nicely interspersed with spice and tarry notes. The supple tannin provides a firm structure and solid underpinning while moderating acidity provides deft balance and good definition. The lingering finish delivers more berry fruit flavours and it's delicious. Pick up a few at this price. (VH)

Australia: White

***1/2 drink now
Penfolds 'Thomas Hyland' Chardonnay 2007
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $18.95 (611228)
Thomas was the son-in-law of winery-founder Dr. Penfold. The wine is quite expressive on the nose with aromas of spice box and ripe honeydew melon. On the palate it's crisp, clean and refreshing with a stream of tang delivered on green apple and racy citrus flavours. This is medium bodied and a versatile food wine—beer can chicken, and grilled stuffed pork tenderloin are good matches. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Thorn-Clark Terra Barossa Riesling 2006
Eden Valley, South Australia $14.95 (075986)
This is steely, tight, racy and focused. Mineral and floral on the nose, expect a bracing spine of zesty acidity on the palate with flavours of white grapefruit, green apple and ripe lemon. Medium bodied and nicely textured, the crisp and refreshing finish lingers nicely. This is perfectly paired with pan-seared freshwater fish under a generous drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Wolf Blass Premium Selection Chardonnay 2006
South Australia $19.95 (394908)
Light bodied and crisp; look for aromas and flavours in the green apple and citrus zones in this drink-me-now white. You'll discover oodles of tang from the grapefruit and lemony flavours and it lingers right through the medium-length finish. This would pair extremely well with lemon sole or lemon chicken. (VH)

Australia: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds Bin 128 Shiraz 2004
Coonawarra, South Australia $34.95 (509919)
Bin 128 is a truly affordable and collectable 'Bin' wine from Penfolds. Only French oak for this classy elegant red and there's a slight hint of it on the nose. From cool-climate Coonawarra—unusual as most Penfold wines are regional blends—this delivers black pepper and red cherry fruit aromas. The concentrated flavours are a deft balance of ripe succulent dark cherry fruit and red pie-cherry fruit with its moderating zesty tang. Medium bodied and well textured; the persistent finish layers on lashings of rich dark berry fruit with hints of spice and cedar. Drink now to 2014. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (730374)
Rich and robust; this is a ripper! The 24 months in American oak shows through on the nose with sweet coconut intermingling with expressive peppermint and black cherry. The perceptible tannin provides firm structure while the fruit forward attack on the palate—ripe, black juicy cherry and cassis—is deftly balanced by moderating acidity. The finish is lengthy and the price-quality balance tips heavily in your favour. Drink now to 2015 alongside medium-rare grilled lamb tenderloins. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Yering Station Pinot Noir 2005
Yarra Valley, Victoria $22.95 (020255)
Cool-climate Victoria continues to impress with wonderful Shiraz and amazing Pinot Noir like this. Look for ripe fresh aromas of red berry fruit nicely entwined with earthy and floral notes. It's medium bodied and lightly textured with full fruit flavours on the palate with cranberry and red currant to the fore. Good zest and balance mark it a versatile food wine. Pair with smoked duck breast or Boeuf Bourgignon. (VH)

New Zealand: White

***** drink now
Coopers Creek Select Vineyards 'Dillons Point' Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (066092)
Everything a world-class Marlborough SB should be; it's ripe, it's racy, it's lip-smacking good. There are oodles of pungent gooseberry, grassy and herbaceous aromas on this medium-bodied generously textured gem. The crisp and refreshing flavours are mostly zingy lemon-lime citrus with hints of mineral. It's perfectly balanced with a crisp lingering finish. Pair with crumbled chèvre over a bed of greens drizzled lightly with verjus. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (680983)
Subtle aromas of mineral and herbaceous notes segue a pleasantly crisp and refreshing wine. There are good fruit flavours with crisp lemon acidity and nuances of ripe yellow peach up front. The two provide good balance, and along with a medium length refreshing finish, portend a lovely pairing with salt and pepper calamari rings under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (VH)

**** drink now
Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (919514)
This is heady and exuberant. Pungent aromas of nettles, gooseberry and mixed fresh herbs rip off the glass. The very expressive flavours are all about gooseberry and lemon-lime zest while the finish displays more of the same; it's very crisp and refreshing. This is best enjoyed with pan-seared or BBQ-grilled white fish under a generous drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

New Zealand: Red

***1/2 drink now
Sileni Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2007
Hawkes Bay, North Island $16.95 (694901)
Bistro-styled, this is straightforward and uncomplicated—it's full of fresh ripe fruit aromas and flavours. Enjoy the red cherry and red plum flavours without complicating tannin. It provides a lovely mouth feel and a fruity finish. It pairs well with deli meats and accompaniments. (VH)

France: White

**** drink or cellar
Robert Klingenfus Pinot Gris 2005
AOC Alsace $19.95 (067157)
This opens with a perfumed nose of exotic spice box and tropical fruit. The flavours wash warmly overly the palate with ripe nectarine, yellow peach and ripe citrus predominant. The lingering finish delivers the added nuance of honeyed-pear flavour. This is medium bodied and generously textured. Pair this with a spicy Asian dish, chicken biryani, for instance. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine Ferrand Mâcon Blanc 2006
AOC Mâcon $17.95 (085019)
Nadine Ferrand personally confirmed 15 year old vines with not a splinter of oak in the making of this crisp and refreshing white from Mâcon, Burgundy. Light to medium bodied and smoothly textured; the aromas and flavours are pure Chardonnay—crisp acidity from citrus and green apple flavours with the barest hint of tropical fruit. It offers very good value, as many from this region do. This holds great appeal for easy drinking in the summer sun; with or without light appetizers. (VH)

France: Red

**** drink or cellar
Château Le Bourdieu 2003
AOC Médoc $19.95 (085084)
Toast, spice and red currant on the nose, the flavours—ripe black cherry and kirsch liqueur—are still a bit wound up in chunky tannin. It's medium textured with good body weight and a persistent finish that shows fruity, spicy and black licorice flavours. Drink now to 2012 with a medium-rare grilled strip loin. (VH)

**** drink now
Château de Nages Réserve 2005
AOC Costières de Nîmes $14.95 (427617)
A Grenache / Syrah bistro-style blend; this medium-weight and fully textured red delivers good value. It also provides round n' ready flavours of sweet and juicy black cherry and cassis, right through the lingering and balanced finish. Pleasant sipped on its own, it hits its stride with braised lamb shanks. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Surville 'Prestige' 2006
AOC Costières de Nîmes $18.95 (078766)
The overly fruity and sweet raspberry jam nose promises a one-dimensional fruit bomb, but luckily this doesn't eventuate—rather, it's complex, rich and extremely well balanced. Well structured with ripe supple tannin and deftly balanced by cranberry and red currant flavour, those rich and ripe dark fruit flavours promised on the nose are beautifully integrated with Provençal spice box (a.k.a. garrigue) and notes of espresso roast. Pick up an armful and drink now to 2014. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de la Côte de l'Ange Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $37.95 (074856)
This proprietary blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Syrah is expressive, full bodied and silky smooth in texture. Billowing aromas of spice, black juicy berry and tobacco segue the rich and juicy flavours of cassis, black briary berry and black currant. This tenacious finish is fruity with hints of tar and coffee. It's enjoyable on its own and has the structure and oomph to pair with rich meat dishes, osso bucco or lamb daube. (VH)

Germany: White

**** drink now
Moselland Insignum Riesling Kabinett 2004
QmP, Erdener Treppchen $14.95 (072355)
Mineral, floral and herbaceous aromas introduce this medium-bodied and medium-textured value wine. Look for rich ripe and sweet fruit flavours of yellow peach and melon that are juxtaposed with citrussy tang. This delivers that sweet and tang, yin and yang that pairs so well with spicy Asian food. Pair with tandoori chicken and aromatic basmati rice. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling Kabinett 2002
QmP, Erbacher Schlossberg $19.95 (657148)
There are aromas of white flowers and spice on the nose while the flavours are quite delicate and in the sweet peach and nectarine zones. It's light bodied and textured with a crisp clean finish, even though it does provide those sweet fruit flavours up front. This will pair well with lime-marinated grilled prawn kebabs, sprinkled with sweet basil as you're bringing them to the table. (VH)

Italy: Red

***1/2 drink now
Cantine Due Palme Primitivo 2005
IGT Salento $14.95 (658351)
Genetically aligned with Zinfandel, this Primitivo displays many characteristics of Zin—minus the puns, Zin-fully good et al. Round n' ready to drink, this is fruity and jammy. There are aromas of spice and dark sweet fruit and this follows through to the palate with a gusher of sweet, juicy raspberry jam flavour. It's medium bodied and silky textured. This would pair well with a spicy offering, say chili con carne or spaghetti Bolognese. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Barbi Brunello Di Montalcino 2001
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $49.95 (928028)
Earthy and spicy on the nose, this delivers a huge mouthful of powerful juice. There's a mélange of fruit flavours with black currant and black spiced cherry up front. It's also wrapped up with focused tannin for the moment, requiring a three-hour aeration/decant before consumption. Medium bodied and nicely textured, pair it with osso bucco. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Quercia Al Poggio Chianti Classico 2003
DOCG Chianti Classico $25.95 (083998)
Surprisingly, as it hails from the searing 2003 vintage, this has good balance. Look for enticing and expressive aromas and flavours of spice box, lilac and sweet rich black Bing cherry along with a dollop of moderating acidity for balance. It has medium weight and texture with a fruity finish. As with most Chianti, it pairs well with tomato-based dishes, like spicy rich lasagna. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico Riserva $29.95 (969477)
This Riserva struts its stuff with supple fine-grained tannin, good complexity and a persistent rich finish. There are aromas of spice and leather before opening up to a gorgeous stream of fruit flavours—red cherry, black currant and mixed berry fruit. The tannin and moderating acidity are nicely balanced against those fruit flavours and it augers well for drinking now to 2012. Good value here. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Remo Farina 'Vigna Montecorna' Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2004
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $19.95 (056267)
Stock up, it's one of the super stars of this release; the price-quality ratio is calibrated well in your favour. The aromas and flavours are layered and complex; look for dark berry fruit and earthy aromas then a glorious stream of sweet juicy fruit—boysenberry, black raspberry and Bing cherry predominant. There are intermingled nuances of roasted nuts and espresso roast. It's medium bodied, fully textured, well balanced with moderating acidity and sports a lingering delicious aftertaste. (VH)

**** drink now
Valpantena Torre Del Falasco Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005
DOC Valpolicella $54.95 (922161)
Amarone is unique; after a whole-bunch harvest, the grapes are dried on mats for about 3 months, losing almost half their weight. This usually produces fully flavoured wine with good concentration and weight. There's mixed berry fruit, lilac and tobacco on the nose of this one. The rich and concentrated flavours include dark chocolate, black currant and spice box. It's medium bodied and nicely textured with a well-balanced finish. It's drinking well now and will do so into 2012.

Portugal: Red

***1/2 drink now
Quinta Santa Eufêmia Red 2005
DOC Douro $14.95 (080986)
This is a bistro-styled wine and well worth the modest price tag. There's black plum and spice on the perfumed nose while the round and mellow flavours are all about sweet black cherry and cassis. There's no perceptible tannin or acidity, but they're present, as it's well balanced and not at all blousy. This is just the wine to pair with gourmet sausage, burgers or pizza. (VH)

Spain: Red

**** drink or cellar
Raimat Tempranillo/Shiraz 2005
DO Costers del Segre $14.95 (014696)
While Raimat is one of Spain's largest and most progressive producers, this appellation, just west of Barcelona, is fairly new and largely unknown. This opens with earthy, mineral and cherry aromas then delivers a steady stream of well-balanced and delicious flavours with black briary berry and kirsch liqueur up front. It's straightforward, uncomplicated and worthy of a multiple purchase - good value. (VH)

Spain: Rosé

**** drink now
Julian Chivite Gran Feudo Rosado 2007
DO Navarra $11.95 (256149)
Just in time for the hot dry days of summer we've been promised, this is lovely as an aperitif with the heft to pair with patio appetizers of seafood or chicken. Lifted aromas of cherry and red berry fruit segue well-focused and well-balanced flavours of strawberry, raspberry and Montmorency cherry (a.k.a. 'sour cherry' or 'pie cherry'). This finishes dry, refreshing and full of racy tang. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Australia

***1/2 drink now
Wolf Blass 'Yellow Label' Chardonnay 2007
South Australia $16.00 (226860)
This is an easy-drinking white with a delightful crisp and refreshing approach. Not over-oaked or buttery, this is tight and focused with ripe citrus plus apple and pear flavours throughout. Everything's in synch and it provides good balance with a clean and refreshing finish. This is divine paired with seafood paella. (VH)

France

**** drink now
Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer 2006
AOC Alsace $16.05 (373373)
This is a lovely wine bursting with exotic aromas and dripping with full fruit flavours. Perfumed aromas of rosewater, exotic spice and lychee roll off this golden-hued gem. On the palate there's a pleasant warm gusher (14% alcohol) of sweet tropical fruit and peach flavours that are held in check on the lingering finish by a surge of citrus tang. Gorgeous sipped on its own, it pairs exceptionally well with a vegetarian curried stir fry or curried lamb. (VH)

Consignment Wine

Australia

****1/2 drink or cellar
Best's Great Western 'Thirteen Acre' Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Great Western, Victoria $31.65
Rich aromas of boysenberry and cassis form segue to this medium-bodied and fully textured red produced from well-established vines, some over 100 years old. Complex flavours glide easily over the palate with Bing cherry, black currant and mint to the fore. The 18 months in small French oak has been seamlessly integrated while the supple tannin provides firm structure. The tenacious finish is extremely well balanced. Drink now to 2012 with a thick juicy strip loin grilled rare to medium rare. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

**** drink now
logan 'Weemala' Pinot Noir 2007
Orange, New South Wales $18.15
Every cloud has a silver lining; a drought in '07 in this higher-altitude cool-climate region resulted in lower yields and a gutsier more concentrated wine than normal. This was partially foot trodden (a.k.a. pigeage) spending 6 months in new and used oak. There's cherry, strawberry and a roomful of spice-laden aromas on the nose. The flavours are well balanced with sweet Bing cherry, hints of chocolate and welcomed moderating acidity. It's light to medium bodied with a lengthy finish. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Ulithorne 'Frux Frugis' Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale $51.98
Tasting was ecstasy, spitting it quite difficult. Low-yields, sustainable viticulture, minimal irrigation and unfiltered juice went into crafting this wine from a small family-owned concern. Full bodied, rich and complex, expect aromas of black pepper, ripe berry fruit, aromatic bitters and espresso roast. The flavours are a mélange of sweet juicy dark fruit—cherry, mulberry and blackberry. The tannins are supple, but perceptible, and the lingering finish is amazingly well balanced from a spine of moderating acidity. Drink now to 2018. Order by the case of six for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

California

****1/2 drink or cellar
Torres 'Marimar Estate' 'Don Miguel Vineyard' Chardonnay 2006
Russian River $46.15 (180701)
Elegant and complex, this was whole-cluster pressed, barrel fermented and aged in French oak. Toast, tropical fruit, vanilla and smoky aromas billow from the glass. It's full bodied nicely textured and delivers full bore warm (14.2% alcohol) fruit flavours with buttery ripe apple, pineapple and spiced pear up front; it's underpinned and balanced by a lovely stream of citrus tang. The finish is fruity and tenaciously lengthy. Drink now to 2014. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

France

**** drink now
Domaine Cherrier et Fils Sancerre 2006
AOC Sancerre $27.24
This is a gorgeous effort with leesy and mineral aromas and a most luxurious creamy mouth feel. Twenty-five-year-old Sauvignon Blanc vines showcase ripe and succulent fruit flavours. They wash over the palate in wave after delicious wave with ripe yellow peach, sweet yellow plum and zesty lemon zest to the fore and tropical fruit in the background. This is medium bodied and sports a clean and refreshing lingering finish. Order by the case from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.  in the Ottawa area and Hobbs and Company elsewhere for home or office delivery. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Domaine des Dorices 'Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie' 2006
AOC Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie $13.95
The price-quality balance is tipped heavily in your favour. The grape is Melon de Bourgogne, not 'Muscadet', which is a style of wine. This opens with expressive aromas of baking bread and mineral notes then washes the palate with a gusher of tantalizing flavours including white grapefruit, lemon zest and juicy white peach. It's medium bodied, well textured and delivers a dry crisp and lip-smacking finish. Pair with seafood, mussels, oysters or prawns. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Ferraton Père et Fils Samorëns 2005
AOC Côtes du Rhône $20.10
A blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5% Cinsault; this offers heady aromas of bright red cherry, spice and gamey notes with subtle hints of mint. The racy fruit flavours are pie cherry and black Damson plum underpinned by ripe and supple tannin. It finishes balanced and full of zesty tang that's overlaid with espresso roast and black licorice flavours. A versatile food wine, it pairs well with grilled red meats and meat-laden pizza. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

Italy

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fontamara 'Ramaio' 2004
IGT Terre de Chieti $18.15
This gutsy blend, mostly Montepulciano with a touch of Aglianico, offers a lifted nose of exotic spice box and mixed field berry aromas. It's medium to full bodied, nicely textured with a charming rustic quality that shines through in the vibrant flavours—spiced black currant, bacon smoke and black juicy cherry underpinned by chunky tannin and nuances of herbs. The lingering finish is well balanced. Pair this osso bucco or lamb tagine. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

Ontario

****1/2 drink now
Tawse Winery 'Robyn's Block Estate' Chardonnay 2004
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $53.00
This Silver Medal winner at the Canadian Wine Awards is a hedonist's delight. Vinified from well-established vines, this deep yellow gem rips from the glass with toasty, buttery and spice-laden aromas. There's a cornucopia of rich, complex flavours with apple compote and spiced poached pear among them. It's medium bodied and fully textured with a tenacious finish of vanilla and sweet ripe pit fruit. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Tawse Winery 'Sketches of Niagara' Chardonnay Unoaked 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.00
Subtle, nuanced and delicate on the nose there are aromas of floral, mineral and spice. It's light on its feet, as well, with delicate texture and light to medium weight. The flavours, white grapefruit and lemon zest, are carried along on a bracing spine of acidity that sets up a clean and refreshing finish. A lovely summer quaffer, it also pairs well with a pan-seared freshwater fish, like trout. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Tawse Winery Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $32.00
An absolutely stunning nose of barnyard and gamey aromas provide segue to this spicy, juicy well-balanced red. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it's a tour de force in winemaking in a particularly trying vintage. It provides depth and complexity via a persistent stream of spicy red cherry, red currant and pomegranate flavours through the tenacious finish. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Tawse Winery Riesling 2007
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $20.00
This opens with an alluring nose of white flowers and tropical fruit aromas. It's light to medium body and lightly textured, a delicate Riesling. There's nuanced and subtle flavours on the palate with a mélange of tropical fruit—pineapple, guava and honeydew melon. It finishes with a generous burst of ripe citrus. Pair this with steamed mussels. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

Spain


**** drink now
Bodegas Frutos Villar 'Calderona' Rosé 2007
DO Cigales $13.90
This is a gorgeous blend—70% Tempranillo with Grenache and local varieties providing the balance. Perfectly timed for summer sipping, look for pungent aromas and flavours of ripe rhubarb, freshly picked strawberries and red raspberry. It's medium bodied, crisp, dry and refreshing and it finishes lengthy and full of citrus zest and tang. Pair this with grilled salmon, seafood paella or goat cheese salad. Order by the case for home or office delivery via this email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

Cheers,

Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar