winecurrent.com
June 7, 2008 Vintages Release

Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

The release and newsletter begin with a feature on Champagne followed by wines suggested for a Father's Day purchase, although I detected no pattern, theme or genre that might provide a clue as to why these particular wines were chosen. Perhaps a sharp-eyed Winecurrent subscriber could enlighten me. The familiar country/region review format follows with many interesting and good value wines throughout the newsletter.

Other highlights in this Winecurrent newsletter include:

  • Three Ontario Rosés and a dry Riesling that are simply outstanding; they're found early on in the 'Main Release'
  • A drop-dead gorgeous Aussie Cabernet Sauvignon for $20.95 and a value blend from St. Hallett for $14.95, both found under 'Australia: Reds'
  • In the 'New in the LCBO' section that follows the Main Release you'll find some great tasting and good value wines for under $15.
  • The 'Upstream' segment alerts you to what's in the LCBO pipeline while the 'New from Ontario Wineries' has interesting selections not found in the LCBO
  • Finally, the 'Consignment Wines' section caters to the discriminating wine-lover wanting to experience wines outside the mainstream offerings

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Champagne Feature

***1/2 drink now
Ayala Champagne Demi-Sec Rich Majeur
AOC Champagne $53.95 (075960)
Lively aromas dance off this medium-bodied and well-textured sweet-ish (sweeter than off dry) Champagne. It's made predominantly from red grapes—which accounts for the firm structure—and all the fruit was sourced from prime vineyard locations. Expect sweet tropical fruit plus peach and apple compote flavours. This is a lovely wine to start a meal paired with foie gras, or to end it while paired with simple fruit flan. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Cattier 'Chigny-Les-Roses' Brut Premier Cru Champagne
Champagne, France $19.95 (919456) 375 mL
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Growers for over 300 years and producers for almost a hundred have taught them a thing or two. This has lovely floral and nutty aromas with a full- bodied structure and mouth feel. Beautiful nutty and toasty flavours marry well with the clean citrussy finish. Great balance and finesse with which to welcome your friends or pair with fowl or veal. Truly exceptional value. (VH)

**** drink now
Chapuy Champagne Brut Carte Noir Tradition
AOC Champagne $37.95 (068304)
This opens with a vibrant rush of fine bubbles that carry along lifted aromas and flavours. Look for zesty citrus, yellow peach and hints of hazelnut. Medium bodied with a fully developed texture, this offers a bit of oomph and a clean and refreshing finish. Serve as an aperitif on its own or with lightly herbed and seasoned appetizers. Good value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gardet Champagne Cuvée Foudres Selected Réserve
AOC Champagne $44.95 (068320)
This delivers the look and feel of expensive Vintage Champagne. Fortunately, it's even on the less-expensive side of non-vintage offerings. Medium to full bodied and brimming with bracing citrus tang; this attacks the palate with a massive bubbly outburst of key lime and white grapefruit flavours that persist through the lingering clean and refreshing finish. Gorgeous on its own, it pairs perfectly with seafood paella or Coquille St. Jacques. (VH)

*****drink now
Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $99.95 (158550)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A unique Champagne rosé that is not a blend of white and red wine; this is 100% Pinot Noir produced by the painstaking saignée method. All grapes were sourced from the finest (rated 100%) vineyards. Intriguing aromas of strawberry and dried cranberry form the nose while the attack is a medium-bodied mouthful of fresh red fruit and tangy notes. A serious bubbly that would stand proudly beside your turkey with all the fixings. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Marguet Père & Fils Champagne Grand Cru 2000
AOC Champagne $52.95 (068791)
Leesy, vanilla and brioche aromas provide segue to this medium-bodied well-structured bubbly made entirely from red grapes—the grapes are pressed very gently with the juice being immediately separated from the skins to avoid red colour in the wine. Green apple and lemon zest flavours are wrapped in a smooth texture and delivered to and through the lingering finish. This is a lovely wine to pair with pan-seared scallops under a drizzle of lemon. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
R & L Legras Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs
AOC Champagne $46.95 (658500)
Made from 100% Chardonnay—the only white grape allowed in Champagne—this has, as one would expect, flavours in the Granny Smith apple, pear and citrus zones. It's expressive and provides an abundance of froth and pleasure. Well balanced, clean and refreshing, it's a perfect aperitif that's very well priced. Maximilian Reidel, 11th generation Austrian glassmaker, suggests drinking this from a Reidel Chardonnay glass, not a Champagne flute, to gain the best results. (VH)

Father's Day Feature

***1/2 cellar
Famiglia Anselma Barolo 2000
DOCG Piedmont $55.95 (065524)
Like your dad, this is a keeper; drink 2010 to 2020 with osso bucco or beef daube. Red cherry, lilac and spice box aromatics open this full-bodied fully textured cellar dweller. There are very racy fruit flavours, cranberry, sour cherry and spiced black Damson plum throughout with hints of forest floor on the lengthy finish. This deserves something a little special; grilled elk or venison tenderloins with Portobello mushrooms and a whiskey cream sauce would be divine. (VH)

*** cellar
Bouchard Aîné & Fils Beaune Cuvée Signature Les Marconnets 2005
AOC Burgundy 1er Cru $48.95 (069005)
This is a moderately priced Burgundy from a respected producer and a terrific vintage. There's good fruit flavours of red and black berry fruit along with a serious vein of bracing zest that's expressed as cranberry, pomegranate and sour cherry flavours. Very focused; this pairs well with meat or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

**** drink now
Atalon Merlot 2003
Napa Valley, California $39.95 (901025)
More charm than a bracelet, this mellow Merlot is brimming with pleasing attributes. Black plum and toasty notes fashion the perfumed nose while the flavours that wash over the palate in endless ripe rich waves are redolent of black briary berry, spice and cassis. It all glides along on a creamy full-bodied frame with ripe tannin and moderating tang playing a minor supporting role. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gran Lurton 'Gran Reserva' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Mendoza, Argentina $20.95 (980334)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Smoke, spice and field berry aromas form segue to this elegant red. It's full-bodied and absolutely chock-full of flavour—sweet black cherry, dark chocolate and black licorice to the fore. Deftly balanced and well-structured, you'll also experience some perceptible tannin. You can deal with them by serving with a rare to medium rare steak and enjoying the wine now. Or, you can cellar and drink 2009 to 2014. Excellent value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Craneford 'Basket Pressed Quartet' 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $26.95 (059964)
This hugely flavoured and fully textured red blend is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon,20% Merlot, 20% Shiraz and 20% Grenache. It's sweet, warm (15.5% alcohol) and brimming with cassis, Bing cherry and spicy black raspberry flavours. Medium bodied and fairly well balanced; look for a lingering finish of rich ripe fruit. Good to go now and on to 2015, paired with gigot of lamb. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kilikanoon 'Blocks Road' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia (34.95 (926790)
Dry-farmed fruit that's hand-picked from premium sites has fashioned this sweet rich and complex Cab from the Leasingham District of the Clare. This '05 is much like the '03 with its heady and racy flavours, along with herbaceous and minty notes, often treasured by Cab-lovers. Expressive flavours of cassis and mulberry intermingle with a ripe tannin structure and very good balance. Drink with pleasure now to 2012 with rack of lamb. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Smith Woodhouse 'Madalena' Vintage Port 1996
Portugal $47.95 (520106)
Vintage Port can take years before being suitable to drink, this is ready now. A spicy round n' ready Port that delivers a beguiling perfumed nose of spice and sweet berry fruit then pours it on with rich and robust flavours of kirsch liqueur, black raspberry and hints of dark chocolate. The sweet warm finish (it's fortified to 20% alcohol) is seeking a death by chocolate dessert or hard aged cheese like cheddar or parmigiano reggiano. (VH)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

****1/2 drink now
Gonzalez Byass Nutty Solera Oloroso
Jerez $11.95 (035204)
Perennially, this is one the great bargains and over-looked treasures in the LCBO. Flamboyant aromas of dark spice, figs, currants and peel marmalade explode from the glass of this delicious nectar—if they tripled the price they'd double what they sell. The ripe sweet flavours, caramel, marmalade, toasted almonds and toffee, turn, magically, almost dry on the lingering finish. Serve chilled, as an aperitif (and conversation starter) or with spiced cake for dessert. (VH)

Sparkling Wine

*** drink now
Banrock Station Sparkling Shiraz
South Eastern Australia $15.95 (971507)
And now for something completely different... Straightforward and uncomplicated, fun and friendly, this delivers oodles of sweet cherry cola flavours that will certainly please those with a slight sweet tooth. With lots of bubbles and a sweet berry finish, this matches well to sliced berry fruit. Serve chilled. (VH)

Ontario: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château des Charmes Estate Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (277228)
This opens with lifted aromas of peaches and apples, with mineral and floral notes. A gorgeously textured surge of pit fruit flavours, yellow peach and yellow plum to the fore, is deftly balanced with clean and refreshing citrus tang on the lingering finish. A top drawer Riesling at a rock bottom price, pair with Sole Meunière. (VH)

Ontario: Rosé

**** drink now
Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Rosé 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $14.95 (039974)
This delivers what one would hope for in a rosé from a premium producer—recognizable fruit flavours, structure and balance plus a lingering dry and fruity finish. Ripe fresh strawberry and cranberry flavours mingle on a medium bodied frame. This would make a lovely aperitif. As well, the finish is dry and zesty with that desirable sweet and tang sensation that makes it so easy to pair with spicy Asian dishes. Partner with spring rolls or Pad Thai. (VH)

**** drink now
Henry of Pelham Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2007
VQA Ontario $14.95 (685610)
Intriguing aromas of allspice, earthiness and black berry fruit provide segue to this beautifully structured (more body than most) and fully flavoured rosé. Look for spice, red cherry and vibrant citrus flavours that coalesce on a vibrant refreshing and lip-smacking finish brimming with berry fruit and citrus flavours. Lovely flying solo, it also pairs well with seafood paella—serve chilled. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Malivoire 'Ladybug' Rosé 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 (559088)
Ladybug, ladybug fly away home—you'll want a few bottles of this winging its way to your home. Complex and compelling, expect mouth-watering flavours of rhubarb, strawberry and pomegranate that roll over the palate in medium-bodied and nicely textured waves. It's racy and refreshing on the finish. Pair with pernod poached shrimp over a bed of mesculan greens lightly tossed in verjus. (VH)

U.S.A.: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beringer 'Private Reserve' Chardonnay 2005
Napa Valley, California $44.95 (026682)
There are billows of exuberant nutty, vanilla, oak and smoke aromas in this hugely textured full-bodied gem. Expect a huge mouthful of warm rich (14.5% alcohol) tropical fruit, vanilla and zesty citrus flavours to drench your palate and senses. Well balanced and well priced, luxuriate in the racy and lengthy finish. Pair with steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter. (VH)

**** drink now
Liberty School Chardonnay 2005
Central Coast, California $18.95 (960120)
Tantalizing aromas of vanilla and almonds drift of the lifted nose of this medium- to full- bodied charmer. Creamy textured and extremely well balance, you'll find s mélange of flavours—spice, apple pear and peach—that are still present on the medium-length clean and refreshing finish along with pineapple and citrus flavours. Pair this with lemon veal. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Mossback 'Unoaked' Chardonnay 2006
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County California $21.95 (66688)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a stunning wine that delivers a huge mouthful of velvety texture and pure fruit-driven pleasure. Not a splinter of oak, but it still delivers incredible structure along with its aromas of mineral and floral notes and zesty clean flavours of citrus, green apple and pear. It's well balanced and sports a lengthy cleansing finish. Great sipped on its own, it also pairs well with pan-seared tilapia under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (VH)

U.S.A.: Red

**** drink or cellar
Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa County/Sonoma County, California $24.95 (909101)
Focused and fruit forward, you'll find this has deftly-integrated oak, excellent moderating acidity and an intriguing aromatic profile of mint, savoury spice and red berry fruit. There are cassis, black plum and spice flavours galore in this medium-bodied velvet-textured Cabernet blend (6% Merlot and 6% various other varieties). The finish is lingering and redolent of sweet cassis flavours. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Fess Parker Syrah 2004
Santa Barbara County, California $20.95 (942136)
Never without its ardent fans; this will not disappoint anyone. It's overflowing with aromas and flavours of spice box, boysenberry, aromatic bitters and sweet cassis. There's a racy streak of moderating acidity and supple tannins for structure. The rambling finish is fruity and delicious. Pair this with a huge slab of smoked and grilled back ribs. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Liberty School Syrah 2005
California $16.95 (942383)
Very soft and approachable, everything's in synch with no rough edges. Black cherry and ripe currant flavours are balanced off nicely with a squirt of moderating acidity and supported by ripe fine-grained tannins for structure. The lengthy finish is also well balanced and adds on a layer of spice and smoky nuances. (VH)

Mexico: White

***1/2 drink now
L.C. Cetto Chenin Blanc 2006
Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California $9.95 (683979)
This needs a home... in your home. It's more than pleasant and less than ten dollars; what else do you need to know? There are sweet ripe aromas and flavours of yellow peach, honeyed pear and sweet topical fruit galore in this medium-bodied slightly off dry delicious sipper. It has that lovely sweet and tang, yin and yang on the finish that allows it to be versatile; it's a great aperitif and an equally great pairing with spicy foods. (VH)

Argentina: Red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Bodega Lurton Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Valle de Uco, Mendoza $14.95 (591735)
Smoky and oaky aromatics drift off the glass of this Cab that's in need of a couple of years in your cellar. It opens with subdued, but enticing aromas of spice, savoury herbs and black ripe berry fruit. You'll notice dry and dusty tannins on the palate that are complemented by black cherry and cassis flavours. These carry through to the medium-length finish. Drink 2010 to 2015 with steak, grilled rare to medium-rare. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Finca El Retiro Bonarda 2004
Mendoza $12.95 (640896)
A crowd-pleaser at any outdoor BBQ, at this price you wouldn't go wrong picking up an armful for summer and fall. Expect rich and concentrated flavours of sweet cherry and black berry with more sweet ripe berry flavour on the finish, this time mulberry with a hint of spice. Serve this alongside the things you grill at your place, burger, steak or gourmet sausage. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Luigi Bosca 'Single Vineyard' Malbec 2004
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $17.95 (074922)
From one of the best known and best producers of value wines in Argentina, this is deftly balanced, richly flavoured and fairly priced. Gorgeous aromas and flavours burst from the glass—sweet Bing cherry, spice box, cassis and black raspberry are predominant. There's perceptible, but acceptable tannin and a lingering finish that replays that found on the initial surge of flavours. Pair this with juicy thick strip loin grilled medium rare. (VH)

Chile: White

***1/2 drink or cellar
Anakena Ona Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Casablanca Valley $16.95 (059501)
An exuberant nose consisting of herbaceous sharp nettle aromas segues a burst of flavours in the crisp and zesty citrus and passion fruit zones. The persistent and refreshing finish layers on a substantial hit of ripe pineapple. This pairs well with grilled freshwater fish, like trout or bass, under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
La Playa 'Block Selection' Reserve Chardonnay 2007
Limari Valley $13.95 (059352)
Good value, this offers a favourable price-quality ratio and an alternative to over-oaked, buttery Chardonnay. Medium bodied and pleasing, you'll find peach and pear, and lemon zest flavours galore on the palate and the clean racy finish (Limari Valley is hailed as Chile's 'hot' new 'cool' region). Nicely balanced and offering a supple mouth feel, you might want to pair this with lightly herbed and spiced chicken or veal. (VH)

Chile: Red

**** drink or cellar
Viña Cono Sur 'Visión' Carmenère 2007
Rapel Valley $15.95 (059360)
From a producer you can trust, this will not disappoint—it's a hand-picked Carmenère blend (7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Syrah, 1% Aspiran Bouchet) from a carefully selected vineyard site. It's deep magenta in colour and erupting with a mélange of aromas and flavours including cherry, red and black berry, coffee, savoury notes and toast. Well balanced and firm in structure, pair this with chicken and sausage jambalaya. (VH)

**** drink now
Viña Cono Sur 'Visión' Pinot Noir 2007
Colchagua Valley $15.95 (689992)
Round and plush and full of fruit flavours, it's more new world than old in style. Flavours of red cherry and black currant galore here with no hint of sugary sweetness, just of pure ripe fruit. Nicely framed by ripe supple tannin and balanced with moderating zest; it sports a lengthy finish and would pair well with smoked duck breasts. (VH)

Australia: White

***1/2 drink or cellar
Penmara 'Reserve' Semillon 2007
Hunter Valley, New South Wales $14.95 (058644)
This provides an expressive nose of tropical fruit, predominantly pineapple, and a burst of flavours including peach and nectarine with a generous amount of citrus tang. The crisp and refreshing finish stresses the lemon zest making this a delightful partner with lightly breaded and pan-fried calamari rings. (VH)

Australia: Red

**** drink or cellar
Chain of Ponds 'The Ledge' Shiraz 2003
Adelaide Hills/McLaren Vale, South Australia $27.95 (059899)
This 100% Shiraz had half the fruit sourced from 70 year old vines—accounting for much of the rich and concentrated flavour. Expect a huge mouthful of gloriously ripe dark fruit flavours, Bing cherry, black raspberry and black currant. The finish is lengthy sweet and warm (15% alcohol) with hints of coffee and chocolate layered on. Certainly ready to drink now, you can also cellar until 2012. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Chapel Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $20.95 (965830)
Simply outstanding; every element's perfectly in tune, hitting all the high notes with clarity—winemaker Michael Fragos fashioned an incredible wine. Under screw cap, this delivers aromas of ripe berry fruit and toasted almonds while the palate is treated to layers and waves of rich ripe (not jammy) flavours including spiced black plum and cassis. The finish is balanced, lengthy and luxurious, nicely framed by supple ultrafine tannin. Drink now to 2014 with great joy and grilled red meat. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Poole's Rock 'Cockfighter's Ghost' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Langhorne Creek, South Australia $23.95 (672550)
There's a great deal of premium fruit pulled from Langhorne Creek and we're seeing it recognized as a single area more often on wine labels. Complex and layered, this is rich and ripe with a firm tannin structure. Spice and boysenberry are found in the expressive aromas while the flavours include sweet ripe fruit flavours of black raspberry and mulberry, and a delightful zesty tang. The lengthy finish adds notes of chocolate-covered cherries and eucalyptus. Drink now after a three-hour aeration/decant or cellar until 2011. (VH)

**** drink now
Coriole Redstone Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (059915)
This is very well structured with supple tannin, moderating tang and gorgeous fruit flavours. The aromas include savoury spice box and ripe briary berry while the flavours chip in with black plum compote, rich black raspberry and hints of kirsch liqueur and toasty oak. A lovely well-balanced finish rounds it out. Well priced, consider a multiple purchase. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
St. Hallett Shiraz/Grenache 2006
Barossa, South Australia $14.95 (024117)
Its final ½ star was earned for the wonderful value it offers. Spicy, earthy and gamey on the lifted nose, you'll revel in this concentrated crowd-pleasing gem. The fully textured flavours are a persistent flow of red and black berry fruit, savoury spice box and moderating tang. Supple tannin for structure and its deft balance coalesce to provide an enjoyable sipping wine and one to be easily paired with grilled red meats. (VH)

New Zealand: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Coopers Creek Viognier 2007
Gisborne, North Island $19.95 (061416)
A wine that sneaks up on you, the more you sniff, swirl and taste—and unfortunately in my case, spit—the better it becomes. It's spicy, very richly textured, as smooth as velvet, and awash with vibrant flavours. White grapefruit, savoury spice, lemon zest and yellow peach are among them. Look for a medium to full body plus a long balanced and ripe fruit finish. (VH)

France: White

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de la Croix Senaillet Saint-Véran 2005
AOC Saint-Véran $19.95 (042804)
Floral, nutty and leesy notes form the interesting aromatic profile while the palate-pleasing creamy texture is quite impressive. It was assisted by malolactic fermentation and ten months on the lees. Flavours of vanilla and pear are underpinned by a generous helping of racy citrus tang both on the mid palate and clean finish. Made to be paired with shellfish and seafood, pan-seared scallops work well. (VH)

France: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Haut-Colombier 2005
AOC 1er Côtes de Blaye $17.95 (043802)
Cannot imagine finding better Bordeaux at this price. Expressive aromas of cloves and black ripe fruit open up this medium-weight blend (80% Merlot) from Bordeaux. A sensuous wave of fruit—Montmorency cherry and black currant—wash over the palate along with subtle hints of licorice and tar. This is deftly balanced, still wound in grippy tannin and delivers the flavour and structure to make it a candidate for your cellar. Drink now after a three hour aeration/decant or 2011 to 2015.

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey-Chambertin Vielles Vigne 2005
AOC Gevrey-Chambertin $54.95 (070185)
This is very focused, taut and racy. There's red cherry, and cranberry fruit flavours along with nuances of earthy black loam. Medium bodied and full of tang, the finish delivers more of the same along with a lashing of tannin. It would pair well with tomato-based dishes like chicken cacciatore. Drinking now to 2015. (VH)

Italy: White

***1/2 drink now
Tommasi Le Fornaci 2007
DOC Lugaga $17.95 (013284)
Heady aromas of ripe tree fruit and spice box waft from this medium-bodied and fully textured white. There are copious amounts of peach, pear and citrus flavours on the palate while the balanced finish is medium length and layers on delightful hints of green tea. (VH)

Italy: Red

**** drink or cellar
Le Torri Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2006
DOCG Chianti Colli Fiorentini $19.95 (073445)
Chianti Colli Fiorentini is one of the sub zones of the larger Chianti region, usually producing less expensive wine and occasionally a real bargain like this. Expect ripe tannin for structure and excellent balance. There's ripe and flavourful cherry and plum fruit on the nicely textured palate and more of the same on the medium length finish. Pair with Veal Scaloppini. (VH)

Portugal: White

***1/2 drink now
Aveleda Follies Vinho Verde Alvarinho 2006
DOC $15.95 (059048)
Mineral, floral and apple notes on the nose, this delivers a zesty helping of crisp and clean flavours on the palate and finish. Lemon zest and key lime flavours to the fore, there's also hints of spice. Built for outdoor warm weather quaffing, it pairs perfectly with shellfish and calamari, ask anyone in Lisbon or the touristy Algarve. (VH)

Portugal: Red

**** drink or cellar
Quinta Do Vallado Vinho Tinto 2005
DOC Douro $17.75 (694992)
This is a little grainy and rustic at the moment, but it's powerful and packs quite a punch. Decant/aerate for two hours before drinking or give it a rest in the cellar and drink 2011 to 2015. You'll find a cornucopia of flavours—black raspberry, savoury spice, tobacco and Bing cherry. It's muscular, well balanced, medium in texture and body with a lengthy finish of perceptible tannin and delicious fruit flavours. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas 2006
DOC Douro $15.95 (359893)
The perfumed aromas are redolent of sliced strawberries, crushed cranberry and exotic spices. It's quite racy, look for cranberry and pomegranate flavours that mingle with spicy black plum on this medium-bodied and medium-textured blend. The finish is lengthy and zesty. Pour this with Swiss veal steak. (VH)

Spain: Red

****drink now
Tomàs Cuisiné Vilosell 2005
DO Costers del Segre $20.95 (066928)
From a little-known northern wine region in Catalonia, NW of Barcelona, this producer will help change that. Look for involved and complex aromas and flavours that include bright red cherry, black plum compote, leather, spice and cassis. It's fully flavoured and medium weight with a lengthy and luxurious finish that delivers well balanced and delicious juice. Gorgeous on its own, it also pairs well with a slab of smoked and grilled pork back ribs. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Ontario

**** drink now
Château des Charmes 'Estate Bottled' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (81653)
Lemon, pear and vanilla aromas dance off the lifted nose of this charming white. Tantalizing flavours of sweet ripe fruit—peach, nectarine and ripe Bosc pear (coincidentally, the Bosc family own this winery)—are delivered in waves in this medium weight, well balanced effort. This earned its final half star on taste and the very favourable price-quality ratio. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Dan Aykroyd Cabernet Shiraz 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (74062)
Oodles of zesty, spicy and heady fruit flavours intermingle in this medium-bodied and medium-textured blend. Cranberry, Montmorency cherry and red currant flavours predominate with hints of spice and black Damson plum layered on the finish. This wine pairs extremely well with coq au vin and with chicken cacciatore. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Dan Aykroyd Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Ontario $14.95 (74047)
Tangy and terrific, this earned its final half star on the wonderful value it delivers. Imagine a grassy herbaceous SB infused with ripe tropical fruit and you've nailed this wine. Racy herbaceous and citrus aromas fly off the glass while the flavours on the palate are a delicious mélange of pineapple, honeydew melon and passion fruit. There's also plush texture and a lingering finish. Pair with any manner of steamed shellfish. (VH)

**** drink now
Jackson-Triggs 'Proprietors' Reserve' Meritage 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.25 (526228)
This red blend (48% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc) opens with very expressive aromas of spice and dark ripe berry fruit. It's quite mellow and very smooth as the ripe flavours—black currant and rich black plum—glide along the palate on a medium-bodied and fleshy-textured frame. The ripe tannin, deftly integrated oak, good balance and fruity finish rounds out a lovely package. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Jackson-Triggs 'Proprietors' Reserve' Sauvignon Blanc 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (58438)
Tangy, crisp and lip-smacking good, look for a refreshing gusher of lemon-lime tang to wash over your palate and senses. This is light to medium bodied and sports a racy finish. Just the thing for pleasant summer quaffing, it's also the perfect partner with chèvre crumbled over a mess of greens under light vinaigrette. (VH)

**** drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery 'Fusion' Gewürtztraminer Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (349126)
What a delightful blend this is. There are plenty of interesting and exotic aromas with rosewater, Asian spice and mineral notes to the fore. It shifts into high gear in the mouth with a gusher of sweet and tang flavours—ripe sweet peach and zesty lemon-lime. It's off dry and right on target to be paired with spicy Asian foods like Pad Thai or Vietnamese shaking beef. This offers very good value. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Strewn Gewürztraminer 2006
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $12.95 (65359)
Fragrant aromas of rosewater, Turkish delight confectionary and exotic spice billow from the glass of this golden-hued beauty. Delightfully dry and refreshing, it's medium in body and texture with good fruit on the palate and focused finish—lime zest, pear and minty apple. Made for easy quaffing it also pairs very well with Alsace onion tart. (VH)

**** drink now
The Grange of Prince Edward County 'Trumpour's Mill' Gamay Noir 2006
VQA Prince Edward County $14.80 (615062)
Winning double gold at the 2008 All Canadian Wine Championship competition heralds this as the best Gamay Noir tasted. It opens with perfumed aromas of red and black berry fruit with distinctive spice and earthy notes. The palate is treated to a taste sensation—sweet berry fruit juxtaposed to tangy cranberry flavours. This sweet and tang, yin and yang, lingers on the lengthy finish. Medium bodied and nicely structured, this drinks well on its own, but has the pizzazz to pair with burgers, gourmet sausage or spicy pizza. (VH)

South Africa

***1/2 drink now
Bellingham Shiraz 2005
Coastal Region, South Africa $13.85 (554360)
This is marked by warm ripe and lifted fruit flavours—there's 2% Viognier providing that lift—and a very approachable structure delivering ripe, almost imperceptible, tannin. There are boysenberry and sweet black briary berry flavours galore in this medium-bodied blend with a hint of rosemary on the finish. (VH)

Spain

**** drink now
Osborne 'Solaz' Merlot/Tempranillo 2005
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain $10.75 (74021)
There's a good deal going on here, all giving you good bang for your ten bucks. It opens with an involved nose of vanilla, dark berry fruit and spice box. The flavours are primarily in the ripe cherry zone with a mélange of supporting cast members—black currant, spiced black plum and kirsch liqueur, to name three. The tannins are perceptible and the mouth feel is plush and pleasant. Good moderating acidity rounds out this partner for grilled BBQ meats. (VH)

**** drink now
Bodegas Montecillo 'Reserva' 2002
DOC Rioja, Spain $19.00 (621003)
Cassis, smoke and spice aromas roll off this 100% Tempranillo beauty. Rich, complex and concentrated, it delivers a luscious mouthful of flavour—cassis and concentrated sweet red cherry dominate. It's medium to full bodied, delicately balanced and offers a memorable fruity finish. It earned its final half star on the great value it delivers. (VH)

New in Vintages

**** drink now
Hillebrand Trius Red 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (303800)
This is a 'Vintages Essentials' wine; it should always be available in (selected) LCBO stores. The blend is 41.5% Merlot, 29.5% Cabernet Franc, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and the aromas and flavours are all about concentrated tangy ripe, red fruit—cranberry, cherry, plum and currant, infused with savoury spice. It's medium to full bodied, fully textured, with a long warm fruity finish. Very good value. (VH)

**** drink now
Peninsula Ridge 'Dubois Vineyard' 'Reserve Inox' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $19.95 (56606)
Well made and well priced, this nicely focused unoaked gem offers a glimpse into a Chablis-styled wine with panache. Mineral, spice and citrus on the nose, the flavours are all about citrus, ripe pear and leesy notes. There's supple texture, warmth (13% alcohol) and a lengthy finish of lemon drops and white peach. A gorgeous pairing with mussels steamed in (this) white wine sauce. (VH)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Classics Catalogue Release: June 2008

****1/2 drink now
Rubicon Estate 'Cask Cabernet' 2004
Napa Valley, California $99.00 (29553)
From the famed Rutherford organically certified vineyards of Francis Ford Coppola and a vintage that produced near-perfect fruit - this is a stunner. Sweet coconut and ripe black cherry aromas waft from the glass providing segue to this rich and robust ready-to-drink red. From 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 28 months in American oak; it delivers a concentrated mouthful of dark Bing cherry and boysenberry fruit flavours. It's medium bodied, fully textured and shows additional sweet oak, spice box and moderating tang on the well balanced finish. (VH)

Vintages Release: July 5 2008

**** drink now
Mount Riley Pinot Noir 2007
Marlborough/Nelson, South Island, New Zealand $21.95
This multi-clonal spice-infused effort is from one of NZs most prolific 'value for money' wineries. Aromas of ripe dark berry fruit and spice infused Damson plum waft off the glass. The flavours are a heady rush of cassis, currant and mulberry flavours that glide along on a silky smooth medium-bodied frame. Fully textured, deftly balanced and blessed with a lengthy finish, it would be difficult to find better Pinot at this price. (VH)
Vintages Release: July 19 2008


****1/2 drink now
Omaka Springs Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $17.65
Audacious and herbaceous aromas of pungent nettles and grassy notes open this gorgeously textured SB. Once on the palate, the full bore flavours swing into high gear with a rush of tropical fruit—pineapple, honeydew melon and guava—that coalesce on the lengthy finish with wonderful lemon-lime zest. It's clean and refreshing and looking for its perfect mate—lemon sole. (VH)

Vintages Release: September 13 2008

****1/2 drink now
Jackson-Triggs 'Delaine Vineyard' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.15 (623454)
Quite charismatic, this expresses finesse and elegance on its firm and focused medium-bodied frame. It's well structured and medium textured with Granny Smith apple and white grapefruit flavours on the palate. The finish is well balanced with nuances of well integrated French oak along with a lovely clean and refreshing hit of racy citrus and honeydew melon. Pour alongside Chicken Kiev. (VH)

 

Vintages Release: September 27 2008

**** drink now
Omaka Springs Estates 'Falveys' Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $26.25
This single vineyard gem sports a perfumed and tantalizing nose of savoury spice and black currant aromas. Entirely consistent in the flavour profile, expect black currant and savoury spice box along with moderating zest and a leisurely lingering finish of warm fruit flavours (13.5% alcohol) plus hints of cassis and licorice. This is well balanced, medium in texture and body and worth a three or four bottle investment to enjoy on its own or pair with smoked duck breasts over greens drizzled with mango chutney. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Ra Nui Wines Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $26.95
Delivering bold new world flavour elegantly wrapped in old world charm; expect a luscious mouthful of ripe fruit flavours—Bing cherry and black bramble berry—plus nuances of clove and black pepper. This is medium bodied, smooth as silk and lip-smacking good. The lengthy finish is a thing of beauty—good dark fruit along with a generous dollop of racy acidity providing perfect balance. Pair this with cedar-planked grilled salmon. (VH)

**** drink now
Ra Nui Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $19.95
Meticulous vine management and wine making techniques have produced this fully textured and flavourful gem. Low-yielding fruit (2.5 tons per acre) was hand-picked then whole-bunch pressed with a small portion barrel fermented and oak aged. It opens with familiar Marlborough SB aromas of grass and passion fruit then surprises the palate with a delightful flow of juicy sweet ripe pit fruit along with the expected racy green apple and citrus tang. Well balanced and well priced, it's perfect for summer quaffing or paired with smoked salmon. (VH)

Vintages Release: October 11 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Allan Scott Family Winemakers Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $24.95
Winemaker Josh Scott, recently in Ontario, provided this technical data—12 year old vines; three Dijon clones-777, 667 and 115; partial French (Allier) 'light toast' oak aging; a cold soak and lengthy wild yeast fermentation. Look for a tantalizing nose of toast, spice and earthiness and a well balanced stream of ripe fresh fruit flavours—red cherry, black raspberry and mulberry—along with oodles of acidity for balance. The texture is particularly plush on a medium-weight frame. The lingering luxurious finish portends life until at least 2012. (VH)

Vintages Release: December 2008

**** cellar
Irony Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley, California $21.95
No irony here - seriously good Napa Cab from a stellar vintage and a premium producer. Muscular and chewy, let this soften and knit together in your cellar, it'll provide optimum drinking 2012 to 2017. Minty and chocolate-covered cherry aromas segue this brawny, fully textured and full-bodied Cab. There's additional mint flavour on the palate along with a cornucopia of dark ripe berry fruit. The lingering finish is entwined with drying tannin and sweet ripe cassis flavour. Not for the faint of heart. (VH)

Classics Catalogue: Fall 2008 / Winter 2009

****1/2 drink or cellar
Babich 'The Patriarch' 2004
Hawke's Bay, North Island, New Zealand $49.95
This blended cellar dweller (39% Cabernet Franc, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 19% Malbec) is their flagship wine, commemorating founder Josip Babich. Best cellared until 2010 and drunk by 2018, you could aerate/decant three or four hours for immediate consumption. Full bodied and fully textured, the flavours are in the ripe boysenberry, cassis and Bing cherry zones with a perceptible tannic structure. There's deft balance, well integrated oak (14 months oak aging) and a lengthy dry finish. (VH)

Vintages Release: January 2009

***1/2 drink now
Bodegas Montecillo 'Gran Reserva 2001
DOC Rioja, Spain $34.00
Leather and cherry aromas introduce this accessible red. The smooth and plush texture delivers a mellow mélange of red cherry, spice and crushed cranberry flavours. It's medium bodied with deftly integrated oak and a medium length finish. Seven years old and reaching its peak, drink up over the next three or four years. (VH)

New From Ontario Wineries

**** drink now
Flat Rock Cellars 'Rusty Shed' Chardonnay 2005
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $25.15 (1560)
Smoke, oak and citrus notes form the aromatic profile for this meticulously fashioned medium-bodied nicely textured charmer. The fruit flavours are well balanced. The oak is well integrated leaving an enjoyable mouthful of crisp and refreshing citrus tang and nuances of pit fruit flavours. The lingering finish delivers more of the same making it a perfect partner for pan-seared scallops over a bed of arugula and under a squish of fresh lemon. Order from www.flatrockcellars.com. (VH)

**** drink now
The Grange of Prince Edward County 'Trumpour's Mill' Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Prince Edward County $19.80
This won gold at the 2008 All Canadian Wine Championship competition for best Pinot Noir under twenty dollars. It'll win you over with aromas and flavours of red cherry, pomegranate, vanilla (from French oak) and hints of spice box and red licorice. It's light to medium bodied and carefully balanced. It finishes dry and racy with good tang. Order toll free direct from the winery at 866.792.7712 ext. 27. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
The Grange of Prince Edward County 'Trumpour's Mill' Riesling 2006
VQA Ontario $15.80
Tantalizing aromas of lemon-lime soda and mineral notes dance from the glass of this crisp and refreshing wine. Look for oodles of citrus flavours (grapefruit and lemon) along with Granny Smith apple. The medium length finish delivers more of the same, finishing zesty and clean. Enjoyable on its own, it's also the perfect foil to smoked salmon. Order toll free direct from the winery at 866.792.7712 ext. 27. (VH)

Consignment Wines

Italy

**** drink now
Colognole Chianti Rufina 2004
DOCG Chianti Rufina $20.45 (974501)
Lower yields, elevated vineyards and a longer ripening season coalesce in this fine wine. Cherry, mineral and earthy notes waft from the glass while the fruit forward flavours include currant, cassis, and notes of licorice and truffles. This is medium bodied, well balanced with a medium length finish. There's good value here and is paired well with veal scaloppini. Order direct from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cologne Reserva Del Don 2003
DOCG Chianti Rufina $33.15
Look for finesse and elegance not always found from this grape (100% Sangiovese) or at this price. A family-owned family-run winery, they're passionate and particular. Almost opaque in density of colour, the lifted nose offers red cherry and spice box aromas then gets into high gear with a surge of ripe fruit flavours—currant, pomegranate and black briary berry. Well balanced with a supple texture, the lingering finish is dry and fruity. Order direct from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

New Zealand

**** drink or cellar
Akarua Winery Chardonnay 2006
Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand $24.95
Located in the world's southernmost wine region, you'd expect something pretty flavourful - and you'll get it with this. Smoke and oak on the nose, the nuttiness and plush texture is reflected on the palate as the flavours are all about citrus, green apple and ripe white peach. It's nicely balanced, medium bodied and sports a clean and refreshing finish. It's Chablis-like enough to make a lovely pairing with freshly shucked briny oysters. Order, by the case of 12, from Aaron Shaw via email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Craggy Range 'Te Kahu' 2005
Gimblett Gravels, Hawke's Bay, North Island $34.95
Craggy Range owns prime vineyards in the most prestigious site for NZ reds - Gimblett Gravels. This 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot blend is not to be missed. It oozes class and elegance, is very accessible now and offers another six very good years of enjoyment. Well balanced, and complex, look for rich and concentrated aromas and flavours of blue Damson plum, exotic spices, black currant and hints of chocolate. The finish is lengthy and memorable exhibiting red cherry tang and spiced ripe dark berry fruit. Order by the case from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

Portugal

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta do Noval 'Cedro do Noval' 2004
DOC Douro $24.95 (64709)
From the iconic Port producer, Quinta Do Noval, this is a blend of premium Port grapes—40% Touriga Nacional, 40% Tinta Roriz, 20% Touriga Franca. Beginning with a mélange of aromas including mineral, earthiness, ripe dark berry and mocha, look for rich and robust flavours of dark, ripe juicy berry fruit with balancing zest. It's fully textured with a silky smooth lingering finish. Ready to drink, it'll also hold another three or four years. Order by the case from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

South Africa

**** drink now
Dixon's Peak Shiraz 2005
Coastal Region $17.95
Round n' ready to go, this organically-certified red offers maraschino cherry and other sweet red berry aromas and flavours. You'll also find tar, black licorice and expressive spice box flavours. It's easy drinking, medium bodied, has a supple mouth feel and delivers a medium-length finish that's well balanced. Pour this alongside grilled strip loin. Order by the case of 12 via e-mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

Spain


****1/2 drink now
Bodegas Barreda 'Torres de Barreda Amigos' 2004
Vino de la Tierra Castilla $21.50
This is a terrific red blend (75% Tempranillo / 25% Syrah) with a lifted nose of black licorice, dark berry fruit and creosote. Oodles of juicy ripe fruit here—black berry and ripe Bing cherry to the fore—that lingers on the palate and lengthy finish. Look for a firm and focused structure, excellent balance, and well integrated oak. All in all, a lovely wine that's very well priced. Order direct from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. in the Ottawa area and Hobbs and Company elsewhere. (VH)

Cheers, Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar