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February 2nd, 2008 Vintages Release


As a nod to the thirtieth anniversary of Robert Parker's 100-point wine-scoring system, the February 2 Vintages catalog begins with a discussion of wine scoring. Then, pandering to Parker's system, the release kicks off with a selection of wines scored 90 points or higher by Parker or another reviewer. After that, a bunch of rosés and icewines for Valentine's Day and then, thankfully, the main release.

Vic was away when this tasting took place, so Rod shouldered the task.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter. 

Feature: 90+ wines

Note: All the wines reviewed here were scored 90 points or higher on the 100-point scale by a wine writer identified in the Vintages catalog. The catalog declares that a score of 4 on a 5-point scale (as Winecurrent employs) is equal to 90 points, but that is not my sense. I agree with The World of Fine Wine (UK) that 4 out of 5 is equivalent to 87-89 and that 5 out of 5 covers the range 94-100. That leaves 4½ as 90-93 points. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Clos Henri Pinot Noir 2005
Marlborough, New Zealand $37.85 (56556)
Clos Henri is the Marlborough vineyard and winery owned by Henri Bourgeois, which is based in Sancerre, France. I tasted the Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc with Bourgeois in Sancerre a couple of years ago, and found it interesting to compare with his Sancerre. In this release you can taste this Bourgeois Pinot Noir and, I assume by sheer chance, a Sancerre Pinot Noir (made by Eric Louis and reviewed below). This Pinot Noir is characteristically New Zealand, with fairly full fruit flavours (dark cherry and plum) with prominent herbal notes and some spiciness. It's quite dense, with a good line of acidity. New Zealand lamb seems an obvious choice to go with it. (RP)

**** drink now
Henschke 'Julius' Riesling 2005
Eden Valley, South Australia $36.75 (945055)
This is a very attractive cool-climate Riesling with the lime flavours that are characteristic of Eden Valley Rieslings. There's a touch of petrol on the nose, and additional flavours of peach and apricot pit, with a nice dimension of minerality. The juicy acidity makes this an excellent choice for grilled garlic shrimp. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Stella Bella Semillon / Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Margaret River, Western Australia $18.85 (48546)
We're beginning to see more and more of these blends and that's a very good thing. Alluring aromas of honeycomb and floral notes form the lifted nose. The flavours are spicy, racy and refreshing. Look for vibrant hits of gooseberry and pineapple along with generous portions of delectable orange rind and assorted citrus flavours including white grapefruit. The finish is zingy and looking for a fillet of freshwater fish (bass or trout) under a generous squirt of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
The Colonial Estate 'Etranger' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $31.55 (20172)
The fruit in this Cab is rich, ripe and sweet, but to my palate the sweetness and intensity tended to overwhelm the structure. The texture is smooth, even silky, and the tannins are ripe and smooth. Pair it with rich red game meats with a berry-based sauce. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pillar Box Red 2005
Padthaway, South Australia $17.40 (685941)
This is a bold and beautiful blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that delivers full-bore fruit and good structure. The fruit is all black fruit and berries, with spice, pepper, and notes of leather and coffee. The texture is smooth and generous, the tannins are ripe and firm, and the finish is long. This is an excellent price for a red that calls out for rich red meat dishes. It's not made for keeping, but it's terrific now through 2010. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hewitson 'Ned & Henry's' Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $22.85
The flavours in this Shiraz recall a range of dark plums, cherries and berries, and you'll find notes of spice, black pepper and smoke. They're nicely restrained in here, not allowed to go over the top, and they're complemented by a nice stream of acidity and quite sleek tannins. Overall, it's very well made, and makes a perfect foil for grilled red meats. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Mitchell 'Peppertree Vineyard' Shiraz 2004
Clare Valley, South Australia $22.80 (57257)
Eucalyptus is first off the nose here, closely followed by aromas and then flavours of black cherry, black berry and blackcurrant, all accompanied by notes of black pepper and sweet spices. The texture of this very attractive medium-bodied wine is smooth and quite stylish, and the tannins are sweet and firm. It's ready for drinking now (with the usual culinary suspects) and will hold another five years or so. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Stella Bella Shiraz 2005
Margaret River, Western Australia $21.85 (48553)
Just what you would expect from well-made Shiraz from Margaret River—spice and pepper on the nose and in the flavours along with a gusher of gorgeous red and black berry fruit. There are perceptible, but acceptable tannins, loads of tang for balance and a gloriously-lengthy and gorgeously-flavoured finish. This pairs well with steak (beef, elk or venison) grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

***** cellar
Château Léoville-Poyferré 2004
AOC St-Julien, 2e Cru, Bordeaux $69.00 (664144)
If 2004 was a significant year for you—you got married or divorced, a child was born, you had a birthday (any birthday will do), you survived 2003—buy a bottle or two of this to put away so that you can celebrate whenever the mood strikes. Given prevailing prices for top-flight Bordeaux, this is a bargain. The wine is powerful but stylish and elegant, with gorgeous and complex flavours of black cherry and plum, licorice, coffee and tobacco. The tannins are ripe and sweet, but still firm enough that I would hold off opening it until 2012. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Moulin Saint-Georges 2004
AOC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux $56.00 (671875/672154)
This is a delicious Saint-Emilion that delivers a plush, generous texture and full but nuanced aromas of black cherry and plum, with notes of smoke, leather and coffee. The acidity is fine and correct and the tannins are ripe and gripping. You can just drink this now with rare or medium-rare red meat or, better still, wait three or four years. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Lieu-Dit 'Les Poyeux' Saumur Champigny 2005
AOC Saumur Champigny $16.85 (52639)
This is a very fine wine at an excellent price. The flavours are all dark fruit (cherry, plum) with good complex secondaries like tobacco, herbs and coffee. The texture is juicy and generous, with good balancing acidity. It's drinking well now and is best consumed in the next couple of years. Pair it with a veal chop. ((RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Sérame 'Réserve du Château' Minervois 2005
AOC Minervois $22.85 (651125)
You can pull the cork on this now, but I would hold it another couple of years and drink from 2010 through the mid-20-teens. From a producer that's establishing a name for itself, this blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre delivers intense flavours of ripe black fruit and berries, with notes of spice, coffee, chocolate and smoke. The texture is equally dense and rich, and the tannins are firm and drinkable. Enjoy this with well-seasoned red meats. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
M. Chapoutier 'Chante-Alouette' Blanc Hermitage 2003
AOC Hermitage $74.75 (140541)
An intensely-flavoured and full-bodied Marsanne, this delivers rich flavours of peach and pear with layers of honey, and notes of cloves, burnt sugar, caramel and orange rind. It's all very delicious, and wrapped in a plush texture with good acidity. I recommend drinking this with lobster or with chicken in a rich sauce. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
M. Chapoutier 'Monier de la Sizeranne' Hermitage 2004
AOC Hermitage $84.65 (708313)
This 100% Syrah has it all: plush texture, complex flavours, excellent balance. Look for dominant flavours of sweet black cherry, with accents of game, pepper, spice and smoke. The tannins are sweet and ripe, with good grip, and this stylish wine pairs beautifully with well-seasoned grilled lamb chops. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $42.75 (67678)
This is a stand-out Châteauneuf-du-Pape—a stand-out in a category where there are few mediocre wines. It delivers a rich, generous texture with all the acidity needed to balance the dense and concentrated flavours. They're dominated by black fruit and berries, with spice, pepper, and complex wild herb (garrigue) notes. The tannins are sweet and firm, but you can drink this now and over the next decade. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Perrin & Fils 'Les Christins' Vacqueyras 2005
AOC Vacqueyras $23.85 (973453)
This is ready to drink now and for the next four or five years. It's very well made and full of intense flavours of ripe black berries accented by dried fruit, licorice, coffee and a lifting line of minerality. It has a good, tangy texture and firm tannins, and goes well with grilled red meats. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Armand Riesling Kabinett 2005
QmP Pfalz $16.85 (60905)
This is a delicious off-dry Riesling that's well integrated, full flavoured, and refreshing. After the nose of light tropical fruit and notes of petrol, look for flavours of tropical fruit, peach and apricot, nicely balanced by juicy lime acidity. Clean and zesty, this makes a fine partner for spicy seafood. (RP)

**** drink now
Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco 2005
DOC Alto Adige $20.85 (907691)
This is a rich, succulent Pinot Blanc with a texture verging on fatness. The flavours are manly tropical and sweet apple, and they're lightened by a line of minerality. It's almost full bodied, finishes long, and goes well with sautéed scallops. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Sassicaia 2004
DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia $168.45 (480533)
A blend of Cabernets, the 2004 Sassicaia delivers intense complex flavours of dark fruit and berries, with notes of spice, tar and leather. It's smooth textured with tannins that are ripe and sleek, but still have the wine too much in their grip to enable it to be enjoyed now. Wait another five years, then savour it during the next 20. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Cyan 12 Meses 2003
DO Toro $16.75 (66936)
This 100% Tinto de Toro is big, dense and rich, with aromas and flavours of sweet dark berries and black cherry, along with notes of game and coffee bean. It has a tangy, attractive texture and goes well with well-seasoned red meats. (RP)

Valentine's Day feature

***1/2 drink now
Rosé de la Solitude 2006
AOC Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux $18.75 (63024)
Hardly a name you'd associate with Valentine's Day, unless you're in love with yourself, but this Cab-Merlot rosé delivers attractive, quite vibrant flavours of sweet and tart red berries. It's fairly dry, with good body and balance, and makes a good wine to sip—alone or with a friend—with appetizers. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Stratus Icewine Red 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $38/200mL (56689)
This is an unusual icewine, a blend of three red varieties: Syrah and Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. It's rich, plush and sweet, with luscious complex flavours of sweet red berries, honey, toffee and rhubarb, and even a little spiciness, all lifted and enhanced by a spine of clean, vibrant acidity. If you find too many icewines taste the same, try this one. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Strewn Vidal Icewine 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.75/200mL (467764)
Icewines can take on really attractive nuances as they age. Here's a five-year-old that's developing the edgier flavours that are often more interesting than in younger icewines. The familiar fruit flavours of peach, apricot and mango have a deeper, darker tone, and they're supplemented by flavours of well-baked brioche and dark honey. The sweetness is undiminished, though, and it's well balanced by a broad line of clean acidity. (RP)

The main release

Fortified wine

****1/2 drink now
Emilio Lustau Deluxe Cream Capataz Andrés Solera Reserva
DO Jerez $9.90/375mL (48132)
This is a lovely sweet Sherry that displays a gamut of flavours that include prune, dried figs, raisins, dates and roasted nuts. It's dark coloured and lightly viscous, but the great dose of acidity lifts the flavours and cuts through the sweetness. Sip this by itself after a meal, or pair it with blue cheese and roasted nuts. (RP)

Canada: white wine

***1/2 drink now
Stonechurch Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.55 (63420)
This is a well-built Chardonnay, with good solid fruit flavours (apple, white peach) with yeasty notes. It has a good spine of citric acidity and a smooth, almost creamy texture. Serve it with roast chicken or pork. (RP)

Canada: red wine

**** drink now
Henry of Pelham Reserve Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Short Hills Bench $24.75 (268391)
Light coloured and light bodied, but substantial in flavour and quality, this Pinot delivers attractive dark cherry and beet flavours, some light, sweet spiciness, and a hint of oak. The texture is lively and the tannins are definitely present. Given a little time to integrate, this will become a delightful wine to serve with grilled duck breast or herbed chicken. (RP)

USA: white wine

**** drink or cellar
Martin Ray Chardonnay 2005
Russian River Valley, California $23.75 (57067)
This is a big, tangy Chardonnay that's full of flavour: peach, pear, baked apple and musky spices. Stylistically, it has that edgy tanginess that makes you want to pair it with food. I suggest grilled salmon or chicken breast with a cream-based sauce. (RP)

Argentina: red wine

**** drink now
Alamos Pinot Noir 2006
Mendoza $14.25 (507822)
This is a medium-bodied Pinot that delivers solid flavours of dark cherry and red berries in the aromas and palate, with notes of herbs and some fairly subtle spiciness. It has good acidity, making it clean and refreshing, and smooth, gently-gripping tannins. Drink it with herbed roast chicken. (RP)

Chile: red wine

**** drink or cellar
Equus Carmenère 2006
Maipo Valley $12.75 (55491)
This is one of the bargains of the release. It has full-on fruit (mainly dark plum and cherry) well supported by spices, herbs, and hints of smoke. Medium-plus in weight, with moderate, ripe tannins, it's flavourful, extremely well priced, and a natural for well-seasoned grilled red meats. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Yali Reserve Carmenère 2005
Colchagua Valley $11.90 (48306)
And this is another bargain. For this low price you get a fairly complex and well-structured Carmenère (thanks largely to the addition of some Cabernet Sauvignon), with concentrated flavours of dark plum, berries, coffee and chocolate. It's almost full bodied, has a tangy texture, and quite firm tannins. Grilled red meats are the obvious choice. (RP)

Australia: red wine

**** drink or cellar
Henschke 'Henry's Seven' 2004
Barossa Valley $40.90 (685578)
This blend of Shiraz (60%), Grenache (30%), Mourvèdre and Viognier (5% each) delivers intense flavours of sweet, black cherry and plum with prominent notes of spice and black pepper. It's full-bodied, richly textured and nicely structured, with a nice level of acidity providing tanginess. Drink it now, and over the next five years, with well-seasoned red meats. (RP)

South Africa: red wine

**** drink or cellar
Boekenhoutskloof 'The Wolftrap' Syrah/Mourvèdre/Viognier 2006
WO Western Cape $14.75 (626333)
The proportions are 50%, 48% and 2%, respectively, and they add up to a big, fruit-forward red that's full of dark fruit and berry flavours with added spiciness and that tell-tale wisp of smoke that so often signals South Africa. It's almost full bodied and has ripe tannins that exert a gentle grip. It's a natural for grilled red meats, and at this price you can drink some now and tuck a few bottles away for next summer's barbecues. (RP)

**** drink now
Goats do Roam in Villages 2005
WO Coastal Region $15.75 (566851)
This is a well-made blend of a lot of varieties, most of them associated with the Rhône Valley. They include Syrah, Cinsaut, Mourvèdre, and Carignan, with 'foreigners' like Merlot, Gamay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage. It works year after year, and the 2005 vintage delivers the usual good quality and value. Look for solid flavours of red fruit, some spiciness and hints of licorice. It's ready to go now and over the next year or so with grilled meats and burgers. (RP)

France: white wine

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Allimant-Laugner Pinot Gris 2006
AOC Alsace $16.85 (61317)
Here's a quite opulent and plump Pinot Gris that delivers concentrated flavours dominated by tropical fruit and guava. The fruit richness is well balanced by a lovely broad stream of acidity, without diminishing the full, generous texture. This is ideal for rich seafood dishes such as lobster and scallops. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Joseph Balland-Chapuis 'Le Chatillet' Sancerre 2006
AOC Sancerre $22.85 (61432)
This is an impressive Sancerre that exhibits the best characteristics of the region and the variety. Look for principal aromas and flavours of gooseberry and grassiness, with the vibrant acidity showing white grapefruit. It's refreshing, clean, and delicious, just the wine for an appetizer of freshly-shucked raw oysters. (RP)

France: red wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Le Caillou 1998
AOC Pomerol $48.75 (45682)
This is an excellent buy, a very good price indeed for an impressive Pomerol from a solid vintage. Now nine years old, the wine is holding its dark fruit (plum and cherry) flavours very well. They're complemented by lovely notes of herbs and spices, and the only sign of aging is an attractive note of dried fruit. The tannins are firm and this will easily coast for another six to eight years. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Remoissenet Père & Fils Beaune-Marconnets 2002
AOC Beaune-Marconnets, 1e Cru $39.75 (36244)
This is a beautiful Beaune, and if you haven't tasted one of these (or not for a long time) have a go at this one. It delivers elegant flavours of ripe dark cherry and berries, with accents of herbs and spice and the softest note of earthiness. The acidity makes for a vibrant juiciness, and there's length to spare. Stylish and classic, it's a great partner for grilled lamb or veal chops. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Eric Louis Sancerre Rouge 2006
AOC Sancerre $22.85 (66613)
Not an auspicious CSPC number, but you'll enjoy this not-too-common Sancerre red with grilled salmon or roasted herbed chicken. This is Pinot Noir in a lighter style that delivers good fruit (red cherry to the fore) with notes of herbs, spice and pepper. It has good, lively acidity. You might want to compare this with the Clos Henri Pinot Noir reviewed earlier in the newsletter. (RP)

Germany: white wine

**** drink or cellar
Weingut Pfeffingen Scheurebe Spätlese 2005
QmP Pfalz $19.85 (14837)
This is a very attractive white with dense flavours dominated by peach and apricot. The tangy texture, which reflects the good line of acidity—is rich and opulent, with some creaminess. Try it with well-seasoned (lots of garlic) seafood, chicken or pork. (RP)

Spain: red wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Casa de la Ermita Crianza 2003
DO Jumilla $18.55 (956334)
This blend of Tempranillo, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot adds up to a huge mouthful of black fruit and berries with notes of spice, pepper, licorice and chocolate. Talk about rich! And it's dry, dry, dry, with firm tannins. Grown at a high altitude, the grapes have a high natural acidity, which lifts the dense flavours and makes this wine great with full-flavoured red meats and game. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Palacios Remondo Propriedad 2005
DOC Rioja $37.75 (597880)
Nothing like ending on a high note. This blend of Grenache and Tempranillo is a stunning Roja, with powerful yet stylish dark fruit (cherry and dark berries) enhanced by notes of spice, pepper, licorice, and vanilla. The acid balance is perfect and the tannins are sweet, fine, and moderately gripping. It's drinking beautifully now, and I suggest pairing it with grilled steak. (RP)

Cheers, Rod and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar