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An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

This release begins with a selection of wines from both lesser and better-known regions of California, many offering very good value. Well-respected Treana plus their Liberty School line are featured. It then goes on to the customary country-by-country listing. Rod was away for this Vintages Release as he was tasting and spitting his way through some of these same California wine regions. Vic tasted and spat through the entire Vintages Release and his reviews of the best of them follow.

Paso Robles: red

****1/2 drink now
Estancia Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Keyes Canyon Ranches, Paso Robles $23.95 (191791)
An intriguing nose of mint and spice box open up this medium to full-bodied red. Look for dark, red, juicy fruit on the palate and finish. There are notes of bitter chocolate and enough ripe tannin structure and moderating acidity to give good balance. The lengthy finish layers on some rich boysenberry flavours. Gorgeous on its own, grilled red meat will also enhance the experience. (VH)

**** drink now
Tablas Creek 'Côtes de Tablas Rouge' 2004
Paso Robles $25.95 (036624)
This is round, smooth and ready to be enjoyed now. It offers sweet (14.8% alcohol) and jammy dark cherry fruit flavours along with notes of spice and herbs. The texture is creamy, providing a wonderful sensation, while the finish is redolent of cranberry and red currant, displaying its pleasant and moderating spine of acidity. This full-bodied blend matches well with bar b qued ribs in a spicy tomato sauce. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Rosenblum 'Appellation Series' Zinfandel 2005
Paso Robles $29.95 (031781)
This is not one of those in-your-face jammy, fruit bomb Zins. Look rather, for a medium-bodied, nicely balanced red with spiced, black plum flavours, reasonable acidity and a long fruit-forward (black berry and more plum) finish. Good to sip on its own, it'll also pair nicely with pork tenderloin stuffed with dried cranberries. (VH)

Monterey: white

**** drink now
Jekel 'Gravelstone' Chardonnay 2005
Monterey $15.95 (421016)
No split personality with this wine, it offers great value, wonderful flavours and deft balance from beginning to end. It opens with a quiet nose of green apple and floral aromas then treats the palate to a mélange of fruit flavours with nectarine, apple and spice to the fore. It's fully textured, almost creamy, with just a hint of oak. It has citrussy flavours on the finish, providing balance. Pick up a few to enjoy over summer. Enough oomph to be paired with roast chicken, enough elegance to be drunk on its own. (VH)

**** drink now
Raymond R Collection Chardonnay 2005
Monterey $18.95 (34751)
In spite of the elegant name, this is not haute couture; however, it's a good fit for most people. Look for a tapestry of fruit flavours - peach, pear, tropical fruit - that have been seamlessly woven with just a bare adornment of oak and moderating ribbon of acidity. This is light in texture and fabric, but with enough flavour and flair to warrant a multiple purchase - keep in the closet for special occasions. (VH)

Carneros: red

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Chandon Pinot Noir 2005
Carneros $29.95 (921825)
This is from the folks who use much of their Pinot for their famous sparkling wine. It's a sweet (14.5% alcohol), almost jammy offering that is definitely in a fruity, new world style. A crowd-pleaser, look for sweet dark and juicy berry fruit flavours on the palate and finish. The texture borders on creamy while the finish layers on just enough tannin and tanginess to provide a pleasant tasting experience. (VH)

Lodi: red

****1/2 drink now
Gnarly Head Old Vine Zin 2005
Lodi $17.95 (678698)
This, from one of the fastest-growing wine areas in California, is tailored for those who prefer their wines Rubenesque. Smoke and oak aromas pour from the glass of this full-bodied and beautifully-sculpted red. Look for sweet and juicy Bing cherry and bramble berry flavours that flow seamlessly along the creamy texture right through to the lengthy sweet and warm (14.5 % alcohol) finish. Stock up, it's extremely well priced. (VH)

Napa Valley: red

**** drink or cellar
Stonehedge Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005
Napa Valley $24.95 (25122)
You can expect a rich and robust Cab that's worth every penny you pay. Look for an expressive nose of mint and red berry aromas and robust flavours of rich black bramble berry and chocolate. There is good grip from the ripe tannins, providing interest and structure, and loads of flavour on the fruit-forward, lengthy and luxurious finish. This'll pair well with spicy ribs or well-seasoned chicken wings. (VH)

Treana and Liberty School Wines

**** drink now
Liberty School Chardonnay 2005
Central Coast $19.95 (960120)
A lovely mélange of tropical fruit and vanilla aromas waft from the glass of this medium-bodied, very well-balanced Chardonnay. The texture is quite velvety while the fruit flavours - mostly pineapple and apple - are enhanced by some nutty and vanilla notes. This is lovely sipped on its own and the perfect partner to grilled freshwater fish, like trout or bass, under a squirt of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Treana 'Mer Soleil Vineyard' Viognier/Marsanne 2004
Central Coast $39.95 (11247)
Be certain not to miss the wonderful experience of swirling and sniffing this aromatic gem. Intriguing and lifted aromas of honeycomb, spice and beeswax waft from the glass. But, that's not all; the flavours are layered and robust. Look for honeyed pears and fresh-sliced, ripe, yellow peach flavours on a medium to full-bodied frame. The creamy texture and full fruit flavours are ably supported by moderating zest and a clean refreshing finish. When thinking of descriptors for this wine, the final word I wrote at the tasting was, Wow! (VH)

***** drink now
Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon
California $18.95 (738823)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Skylar Stuck, export manager of Treana, which makes Liberty School, decribes this as "a step and a half above any other Cab we've made." This is the new vintage (the 15th) of what I think is one of the great buys in the LCBO. It over-delivers on everything, with compelling, concentrated black fruit aromas and flavours, and attractive and tangy texture, sweet tannins and a long finish. This is a natural for rich red meat dishes. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Liberty School Syrah 2004
California $19.95 (942383)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) With fruit sourced primarily from the cooler Paso Robles area, this medium-bodied red is stunning. Aromas of pepper and dark, ripe berry fruit waft from the glass. A 3% splash of Viognier gives a lift to the fruit-forward flavours of rich, sweet cherry and bramble berry. French oak is present, but deftly integrated into the elegant structure of ripe tannins and moderate zest. Paired perfectly when poured alongside rack of lamb. Well priced. (VH)

**** drink now
Liberty School Zinfandel 2005
California $19.95 (41095)
Aromas of dark berry fruit and hints of mint and red currant abound in this very accessible Zin. It's plush, sweet and smooth, putting it in the crowd-pleaser category. It's also, spicy, fruity and flavourful - dark cherry compote and cassis predominant. The finish is quite well balanced and not jammy or over the top. This is lovely partnered with grilled burgers, pizza or lasagna. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Treana Red 2003
Paso Robles $48.95 (11221)
Rich and concentrated, this red blend is stunning. The perfumed nose offers distinctive aromas of herbs and spice (mint and cloves) and juicy black berry fruit. Robust flavours of boysenberry and black currant drench the palate along with a good spine of zest and deftly-integrated oak (vanilla and more spice) and ripe, but perceptible tannin. The finish is sweet and fruity. Drink now to 2012 with grilled, medium-rare, strip loin. (VH)

Canada: white

**** drink or cellar
Creekside 'Butler's Grant Vineyard' Reserve Chardonnay 2005
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.95 (049593)
This is a lovely drop from one of the newly-minted sub-appellations in the Niagara Peninsula. Aromas of vanilla and toast are evident on this medium to full-bodied gem. You'll find delicious flavours of ripe apple compote and spiced pear. The creamy texture and lengthy finish also carry along hints of fig and spice. Beautiful on its own, it has the strength and structure to pair well with roast chicken. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Vineland Estates 'St. Urban' Riesling 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (038117)
Calling all Riesling-lovers; this is a gorgeous keeper, from now to 2012. The nose has those lovely petrol aromas, alerting you to the grape variety. Expect a huge mouthful of peach, nectarine and zesty citrus flavours from this medium-bodied dry white. It finishes robust, zesty and medium in length with added layers of citrus, green apple and pear. Pair this with planked salmon grilled with thin slices of lemon over it. (VH)

Canada: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir Reserve 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (268391)
Tasted alongside much pricier new world Pinots, this wine clearly outclassed them. The nose has spice and oaky aromas then gets into gear with a beautiful offering of ripe cherry fruit and spice flavours. There is a perceptible tannin structure, moderating acidity and a solid core of fruit. The word is balance, and the balance is near-perfect. The finish is medium in length and redolent of red currant and cherry. Very, very impressive. (VH)

Argentina: white

****1/2 drink now
Catena Alamos Chardonnay 2006
Mendoza $13.95 (925743)
This was built for fun in the sun, summertime sipping, and the timing couldn't be better. Smoke and oak aromas form the segue to this medium to full-bodied Chard. You'll revel in the sweet pit fruit (peach and yellow plum) and pear flavours that play out through the lovely balanced, dry and zesty finish. You'll discover citrus and spice notes, and a lovely texture. It earned its final half star on price. Pick up a case; right after I get mine, and pair it with steamed lobster. (VH)

Australia: white

**** drink now
Tapestry Chardonnay 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (031500)
Expect a lifted nose of spice, vanilla and peach aromas then a beautifully layered and well-balanced Chardonnay with good texture and medium weight. The flavours are tropical fruit with notes of spice and citrus. The lengthy finish is clean, refreshing and layers on some interesting spice and vanilla flavours. Great on its own, it would pair well with roast chicken or pan-seared scallops. (VH)

**** drink now
Tobacco Road Unwooded Chardonnay 2005
Victoria $16.95 (030924)
From an area that formerly grew tobacco, the cooler climate also lends itself to viticulture. This delivers a delicious mouthful of fruit flavours - ripe peach, pear and apple - along with a plush texture on a medium-bodied frame. You'll also discover interesting notes of spice and citrus. It's clean, refreshing and sealed with screwcap to keep it that way. Perfect to sip alone, it would also match well with pan-fried white fish. (VH)

Australia: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Clarence Hill Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (599811)
You'll find a number of show medals on the bottle of this fruit-forward red. The perfumed nose sports aromas of creosote and tar while the flavour profile is all about sweet, warm (14.5% alcohol), cherry and mulberry compote. It's medium-bodied and finishes with rich and jammy dark berry fruit. A wine to serve with grilled burgers and spicy sausages. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
D'Arenberg The Cadenzia Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $25.95 (661587)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) I'd make book and lay odds on Chester d'Arenberg Osborn, chief winemaker at d'Arenberg, against Dom Perignon for the title of world's best wine blender. Meticulous fruit selection, low yields, foot trod fruit, free run juice and no filter or fining are only the tip of the d'Arenberg. Hundreds of separately fermented and barrelled fruit are assiduously-selected to make up his wine. The result in this GSM? A dark violet and vibrant colour, silky tannins and hugely concentrated and rich, dark berry fruit coalescing with tangy zest, licorice and spicy notes. The finish adds on coatings of raisiny and crushed herb notes. Superb. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
The Lucky Country Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Langhorne Creek, South Australia $16.95 (029389)
This medium-bodied Cab is round and ready to drink. Look for expressive aromas of dark berry fruit then fruit-forward flavours of black plum and spiced red cherry. There's a generous dollop of moderating tanginess and the finish is well balanced and medium in length. It offers good value and would be a welcomed addition to a bar b que gathering where grilled red meats and burgers are served. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Richard Hamilton Gumprs' Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (600122)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Spiced plum and savoury notes waft from the glass of this medium to full-bodied Shiraz. It exhibits the complex and tangy characteristics of McLaren Vale. Round and plush layers of currant and black cherry fruit abound on the palate along with ripe tannins and moderating tang. The lengthy finish sports a generous spoonful of warm kirsch - a delicious drop. Drink now to 2012. (VH)

**** drink now
Stonier Pinot Noir 2004
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria $25.95 (025338)
Just an hour from Melbourne and boasting almost 200 wineries, this cool climate region has made quite a name for itself in its brief 35 year history of viticulture. Aromas that accrue from oak barrels - toast, vanilla and smoke - are evident off the nose of this medium-bodied red. Expect spiced cherry and red currant flavours, a medium-body and good balance. It finishes clean and is lovely paired with smoked duck breasts. (VH)

**** drink now
Taltarni Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Pyrenees, Victoria $21.95 (940692)
This is a producer of fine wine that generally flies under the radar of Parker, the Wine Spectator and others, thereby providing you excellent value. This provides a huge mouthful of complex and layered Bing cherry and black currant flavours along with spice, some hints of oak and ripe, velvety tannins. It has a fruit-forward finish of mulberry and spice. Try this with grilled strip loin over the next three or four years. (VH)

New Zealand: white

****1/2 drink now
Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (735043)
This has a sharp, pungent herbaceous nose - gooseberry, nettles and bell pepper. The flavours are lemon zest and white grapefruit while the lovely texture and medium weight carries through to the dry, cleansing, medium-length, almost laser-like finish. You need a good friend, a sunny sky, a mess of garlic prawns and a couple of bottles of this to while away the day. Forget the corkscrew, it's screwcap. (VH)

South Africa: white

***1/2 drink now
Van Loveren Pinot Grigio 2006
WO Robertson $13.95 (031419)
Floral and grassy notes form the aromatic profile in this Sauvignon Blanc-like sipper. Look for apple, tangy grapefruit and assorted citrus flavours that are carried on a medium-bodied frame. You would do well to pick up a few for when friends drop by and you're serving seafood appetizers, like mussels, shrimp or crab cakes. This is very reasonably priced. (VH)

France: white

**** drink now
Willm Gewürztraminer Réserve 2005
AOC Alsace $16.95 (686303)
This is quite lovely, extremely well-priced and you could imagine it joining their Riesling in the Vintages Essentials category. The very perfumed nose is redolent of spice box and rosewater while the gorgeous and plush texture carries with it delicate fruit flavours of spiced pear and nectarine. The finish is medium in length. Spicy Asian dishes, like tandoori chicken with garlic nan, pair perfectly. (VH)

**** drink now
Remoissenet Père & Fils Meursault 1998
AOC Burgundy $39.95 (036079)
There's a lot going on here, from the expressive aromas of fig, nuts and vanilla and plush texture to the lingering fruit-forward finish. Look for apple compote and sweet pear in the layered flavours that morph into peach and nectarine on the finish. It's dry and refreshing. You wouldn't go wrong pairing this with steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Le Grand Noir (Black Sheep) Chardonnay/Viognier 2004
Vin de Pays d'Oc $14.95 (030304)
Floral and green apple aromas float off the glass. It offers spiced apple, citrus and pear flavours, a medium texture, excellent balance (between the citrus and other fruit flavours) and a medium-length finish. All in all, it's an honest wine offering very good value. Pork tenderloin stuffed with dried fruit will pair well. (VH)

France: red

**** drink or cellar
Château Coufran 2003
AOC Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur $34.95 (035568)
Smoke and mocha on the nose, this offers a lovely mouthful of black juicy, berry fruit flavours on a medium-bodied frame. This is an old world wine showing good depth and structure as well as new world fruit-forward characteristics. The texture is quite plush while the medium-length finish layers on Bing cherry and spice flavours. The quality to price balance is tipped in your favour. (VH)

**** cellar
Château d'Arche 2003
AOC Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur $36.95 (035626)
This rustic cellar dweller is worthy of some attention. You'll love the distinctive and expressive aromas and flavours of chocolate, leather and sweet cherry. Undoubtedly, the hot vintage had a hand in these ripe and juicy (not jammy) fruit flavours. It's medium to full-bodied with good grip from grainy tannins that will need some time to tame. It finishes with mint, pomegranate and some smoked meat notes. Drink 2009 to 2012 alongside medium-rare grilled rack of lamb. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Château la Tour de By 2003
AOC Médoc, Cru Bourgeois $28.95 (903104)
Toasty notes and aromas of vanilla and cherry form the expressive nose of this drink-me-now red. This is another from the searing 2003 vintage, but it shows no signs of being jammy, in fact, it's earthy. Look for full-bore cherry and currant flavours mixed with earthy, leather and spiced meat aromas and flavours that develop on the palate. It's medium to full-bodied and would pair well with osso bucco and mushroom risotto. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine Clavel les Garrigues 2004
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc, Terroir de la Méjanelle $16.95 (748814)
This Grenache/Mourvèdre/Syrah blend is usually an even split between the three varieties, sees little or no oak and has become a perennial favourite. This is a ready to drink, round and sweet, fruity wine. Sour cherry and cranberry aromas and flavours to the fore, the tannins are tamed and the moderating tang keeps it refreshing and clean. (VH)

**** drink now
Le Grand Noir (Black Sheep) Cabernet/Shiraz 2004
Vin de Pays d'Oc $15.95 (030296)
You can stock up at this price and drink it over the next couple of years with any manner of grilled red meat, pizza or burgers. Black currant and smoky aromas curl off this very approachable red blend. It's fruit-forward - black berry and sweet cherry - without a hint of becoming jammy. It finishes rich, fruity and lengthy. No discernible tannins, yet enough structure to handle the previously-suggested cuisine. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
E. Guigal Saint-Joseph 2003
AOC Rhône $34.95 (030031)
Often referred to as the poor man's Hermitage, it's on facing slopes, just across the river from its more famous neighbour. You might detect some spice box and cherry aromas before tasting the lovely, tangy flavours of dark cherry and a mélange of field berry fruit flavours. It's medium-bodied, has ripe tannin for structure and a well-balanced finish. Meat or chicken in a spicy tomato-based sauce would pair well. (VH)

Germany: white

***1/2 drink or cellar
Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling 2006
QbA Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $13.95 (596601)
The aromas are expressive and in the citrus zone with a touch of minerality. This has incredible balance between the sweet fruit salad flavours and the moderating spine of acidity. All in all, it punches well above the price point and delivers a wine with a lovely sweet and tangy finish. This is great for sipping and will match well with pan-seared scallops. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Kabinett 2005
QmP, Rotlack $29.95 (033423)
This is a classy offering that opens with a fragrant nose of zesty lemon custard and floral notes. There are rich and robust flavours of red grapefruit and lemon-lime. There's a fair amount of residual sugar here, but the bracing spine of acidity balances it off perfectly, leaving you with that sweet and sour sensation that makes it such a special match with spicy Asian dishes. Good to go now and to 2014. (VH)

Italy: red

**** drink now
Travaglini Gattinara Riserva 2000
DOCG Gattinara, Piedmont $49.95 (598615)
One hundred per cent Nebbiolo, this was built to be drunk over the next 3 or 4 years. It's medium to full-bodied with lovely aromas of dried berry fruit and spice wafting from the glass. There is, as there should be, generous acidity and a solid core of red cherry and dried cranberry fruit flavours. It offers a lengthy fruit-forward finish. This would be the perfect partner with Swiss steak. (VH)

***1/2 cellar
Avignonesi Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2004
DOCG Tuscany $31.95 (943670)
Black plum and red berry aromas lead the way to this medium-bodied red blend. The grapes are Prugnolo Gentile (a local clone of Sangiovese), Canaiolo Nero and Mammolino. Expect a medium-bodied wine that offers good balance and an assertive tannin structure. The fruit flavour is predominantly cherry and it finishes dry with a Montmorency cherry, pomegranate and cranberry tanginess. Drink 2009 to 2015. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Isole E Olena Cepparello 2001
IGT Toscana $71.95 (025593)
A very expressive wine, this opens with a fragrant nose of lilac and currants. The medium-bodied frame is deftly balanced between clean, refreshing cherry pie-filling and cranberry fruit flavours, perceptible tannins and a generous sprinkling of spice box and herbs. The lengthy and luxurious finish layers on black licorice and cassis flavours. Drink over the next eight years. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Isole E Olena Cepparello 2002
IGT Toscana $43.95 (025643)
All Cepparello wines are 100% Sangiovese and at the time this wine was first made that did not allow for a Chianti designation, hence the IGT Toscana and status as a 'Super Tuscan'. This is a ready to drink offering with imperceptible tannin and a generous dollop of acidity with the fresh red berry flavour. The zesty finish makes this a 'food wine' - try it with pasta in a spicy tomato-based sauce.

**** drink or cellar
Isole E Olena Cepparello 2003
IGT Toscana $71.95 (025650)
A perfumed and spicy nose of currant and toasty notes open up this medium-bodied red. You'll experience a cornucopia of flavours - tar, herbs, currant and gamey meat - in this rustic and well-balanced gem. The lovely finish sports good sweet berry fruit and enough acidity to give balance and to add interest. Drink now to 2011 with rack of lamb. (VH)

**** drink now
Monte Zovo Corvina 2003
IGT Veronese $18.95 (023911)
Don't be fooled by the rather simple and subdued nose, this is one involved and complex red. It's ready to drink now, but be prepared for the expressive aromas and flavours. Among them, look for bramble berry and currant, then some distinctive herbal, earthy, and vegetal notes. All that said, it's enjoyable, offers a lovely fruit-forward finish and would pair well with poulet chasseur. (VH)

Spain: red

**** drink or cellar
Conde de Valdemar Reserva 2001
DOC Rioja $21.95 (947309)
This perennial favourite offers easy drinking in this medium-bodied spicy blend of Tempranillo and Mazuelo a.k.a. Carignane. This vintage offers a solid core of red cherry fruit flavours that are liberally-infused with tobacco and spice aromas. There is a moderating spine of zest that keeps it refreshing and the finish is fruity, lengthy and balanced. Quite nice on its own, veal parmigiano will match up well. Drink now and on to 2012. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Leza Garcia Gran Reserva 1998
DOC Rioja $36.95 (681601)
It begins with expressive aromas of smoke, toast and tar (think South African Pinotage or Niagara Baco Noir) then delivers a well-balanced, medium-bodied blend. It offers licorice scented cherry and Italian bitters flavours on the palate and a lengthy finish with balancing acidity. Whip up pasta in a tomato-based sauce to enjoy with this. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Marqués de Valcarlos Gran Reserva 1998
DO Navarra $22.45 (687251)
This 60% Cabernet Sauvignon/40% Tempranillo blend is good to go now with a medium-rare grilled steak or could rest in your cellar another four to five years. The nose offers warm berry fruit and spicy aromas while the medium-bodied palate offers pleasant fruit flavours of minty cherries and spiced black plum. The warm finish is well balanced with good structure from perceptible tannins and moderating acidity. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar