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An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

This release begins with a feature on New Zealand wines before starting the usual country-by-country listings.

New Zealand: red

****1/2 drink now
Coopers Creek Pinot Noir 2005
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (599969)
This is a quite stylish N.Z. Pinot at a lower price than you usually find. It has good fruit concentration (cherry, plum) with very attractive spicy and herbal notes. It's medium bodied and has a fairly plush texture, and it goes well with well-seasoned, grilled N.Z. lamb chops. (RP)

**** drink now
Culley Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (031187)
There's a fair dollop of acidity in this Pinot, and if that's the style you like, go for it. The fruit is good, too, with attractive flavours of cherry and sweet berries. It's medium bodied and dry and goes well with grilled veal chops in a red wine reduction. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kim Crawford Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (626390)
This is an excellent price and the wine is a very good candidate for short-term cellaring. Right now you get quite intense flavours of sweet cherry, spice and pepper with some earthy notes, with quite firm tannins. Give it a bit of time or drink it now with grilled red meat. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Goldridge Premium Reserve Merlot/Cabernet 2005
Hawkes Bay, North Island $19.95 (032821)
You can expect sweet ripe berry fruit flavours with lashings of oak and smoke throughout. This is medium-bodied and offers good grip from the firm and perceptible tannins. Well balanced, there is enough fruit flavour and moderating tanginess to allow you to drink this now, after a two-hour decant, served with a beef steak grilled medium-rare. Alternatively, tuck it away for two years then enjoy until 2012. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec 2004
Hawkes Bay, North Island $19.95 (032862)
This is a showy wine that has garnered a bundle of show medals in its short life. Winemaker Kate Radburnd has fashioned a medium-bodied, warm (14% alcohol) and textured blend that offers cherry, red currant and cranberry flavours. The 12 months of oak ageing has been seamlessly integrated while the soft plum flavours on the finish moderate the ripe tannins. It's drinking well now and has the oomph to go to 2011. (VH)

**** drink now
Te Kairanga 'Runholder' Pinot Noir 2004
Martinborough, North Island $29.95 (034348)
From the famed Pinot-producing Martinborough region (not to be confused with Marlborough on the other island), this is a fine Pinot Noir that delivers on fruit (dark cherry, plum, raspberry, with herbal notes) and texture (quite dense and tangy). Drink it with full-flavoured meat, like beef or game. (RP)

New Zealand: white

****1/2 drink now
Spy Valley Gewürztraminer 2006
Marlborough, South Island $20.95 (032870)
Gewürztraminer may not be the first grape variety that comes to mind when you think of New Zealand, but this wine is gorgeous. You can expect classic and expressive rosewater and spice aromas from the nose and a fleshy, almost creamy, texture. There are bountiful flavours of tropical fruit. In an off-dry style, it offers that wonderful sweet and tangy sensation on the lengthy finish that allows it to pair perfectly with a variety of spicy Asian cuisine like Pad Thai or butter chicken. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Culley Riesling 2006
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (030833)
You can expect a tightly packaged Riesling that is dry, racy, and full of flavour. There are mineral, lemon-lime and pit fruit- peach and yellow plum - aromas and flavours that run the entire length of this light to medium-bodied wine. It offers a fleshy texture, medium-length finish and deft balance between sweet fruit and racy acidity. (VH)

**** drink now
Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough, South Island $20.95 (963124)
This offers very expressive tanginess and notes of minerality throughout. Look for zesty lemon, gooseberry and white grapefruit aromas and flavours. It is medium bodied and finishes quite sweet with key lime pie flavours. Nicely textured, it would match well with pan-fried white fish under a drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Saint Clair Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (554196)
If you are looking for a crisp and flavourful Sauvignon Blanc to purchase in quantity for summer '07 drinking, look no further. This wine offers lifted and perfumed aromas of cut grass, gooseberry and melon. The flavours are quite pronounced - citrus and passion fruit - and they are well supported on the lengthy finish with a generous dollop of sweet, ripe, honeydew melon flavours. It has balance, charm, and offers very good value. (VH)

Champagne

***1/2
Lanson 'Black Label' Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $23.95 (974980) 375 ml
You'll revel in the tantalizing aromas of toast and honeyed flower blossoms. A surge of bracing and zesty tang fills your mouth followed by full fruit flavours of green apple and ripe pear. The bubbles in your glass are small and persistent, a hallmark of well-made Champagne. This has the body and structure to match nicely with seafood appetizers. Pair it with prawns, sushi rolls or smoked salmon. (VH)

Ontario: rosé

**** drink now
Henry of Pelham Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2006
VQA Ontario $14.95 (685610)
This is an interesting style of rosé. It has quite soft acidity yet retains the fresh and refreshing character that many of us look for in this sort of summer wine. There are good flavours of berries, nice balance, and a clean finish. Sip it on the patio or drink it with summer salads and baked ham. (RP)

**** drink now
Niagara College Teaching Winery 'College Rosé' 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (040709)
Why isn't this under screw cap? I get so used to twisting the cap off rosés that I found myself twisting the foil on this one before I realized it was sealed with a cork. This is a fairly spicy, even piquant, rosé that's just off-dry. Look for light plum and cherry flavours and drink it with grilled shrimps. (RP)

California: red

**** drink or cellar
Calera Pinot Noir 2005
Central Coast $32.95 (933044)
The iconic renaissance man and winemaker Josh Jensen has fashioned a flavourful and expressive Pinot that is going to attract a good many fans. To begin, you'll enjoy smoky and toasty aromas. These are followed by a wonderful balance between racy and tangy cranberry flavours and the sweet and fleshy flavours of black cherry and cassis. The layered and lengthy finish adds savoury and spice to the mix. All in all, good value. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Irony Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Napa Valley $22.95 (025106)
Ripe, rich and concentrated, this is a crowd-pleasing fruit bomb. Aromas of sweet cassis and cherry compote waft from the glass of this medium to full-bodied red. There are ladles of ripe black cherry and currant flavours that burst in your mouth then hang on deliciously through the lengthy, warm and fleshy finish. The texture is plush, the fruit flavours expressive, and the tannins are imperceptible. What's not to like? (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Morgan Syrah 2004
Monterrey $28.95 (673764)
This is a drop-dead gorgeous red that is round and ready-to-drink. Spiced plum and peppery aromas drift off the glass while the fruit flavours are expressive and impressive - sweet black cherry, black plum and bramble berry. The dry finish layers on a generous amount of licorice and tar flavours. This is well balanced and medium bodied. Lovely to sip on its own it would also pair quite well with grilled lamb tenderloin. (VH)

Argentina: red

****
Chakana Reserve Malbec 2004
Luján de Cujo, Mendoza $17.95 (018671)
This is a big, black, fruity Malbec in the style we've come to expect from Argentina. It's nicely complex, with notes of spice, tar and pepper and heavy black fruit that's ripe almost to the point of jamminess. Pair it with pepper steak. (RP)

**** drink now
Melipal Malbec 2004
Mendoza $17.95 (031609)
Another big, brooding Argentinean Malbec. It's all vibrant dark fruit and berry flavours with complex notes of tar, smoke and coffee. Look for a juicy texture, firm tannins and good balancing acidity. Drink it with nothing less than well-seasoned barbecued red meats. (RP)

Chile: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Carmen Reserve Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Maipo Valley $19.95 (983106)
This is totally delicious. It's packed with flavour from dark fruit (cherry, blackberries) with quite luscious herbal and spicy notes. It's full bodied with a rich, tangy texture, and simply begs for grilled red meat. (RP)

**** drink now
De Martino Legado Reserva Syrah 2004
Choapa Valley $15.95 (032136)
A full-on, fruit-driven Syrah in the best New World style. The flavours are dark and rich, with black cherry, plum and dark berries to the fore and notes of tar, pepper and roasted coffee beans. With drying tannins and a rich texture, you'll want to fire up the barbecue and marinate a hunk of red meat as you open this. (RP)

Australia: white

**** drink now
Lindemans Reserve Verdelho 2005
Hunter Valley $14.95 (029470)
This is a full-bodied, mouth-filling Verdelho that delivers delicious flavour and lovely texture. Look for pungent flavours of lemon and lime here, with notes of herbs. The creamy texture has a nice seam of acidity that leaves your mouth clean and refreshed. Drink it with rich fish and seafood dishes, possibly in a cream sauce. (RP)

Australia: red

***** cellar
d'Arenberg 'The Coppermine Road' Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
McLaren Vale, South Australia $49.95 (943399)
This is a meticulously-made wine that deserves a special place in your cellar until 2012. You will be treated to a full-bodied, rich and concentrated Cab that is brimming with licorice, chocolate and black cherry flavours that are ably supported by a firm tannin structure and balancing acidity. The grapes were sourced from low-yielding vines and carefully blended from small lots after spending approximately 20 months in French and American oak. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
M. Chapoutier 'Domaine Tournon' Shiraz 2004
Mount Benson, South Australia $28.95 (024968)
More famous for his Rhône wines, Chapoutier purchased this property in 1998 and has transferred his formidable winemaking talents and sustainable agriculture methods with great success. You will find expressive aromas of flowers and black licorice on this fleshy and medium to full-bodied red. The full bore flavours consist of more licorice and jammy black fruit. There is enough moderating tanginess for balance and the tannins are quite firm. Drink now to 2012, after a two-hour decant, with grilled red meat. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Mitchelton Shiraz 2004
Victoria $23.95 (025379)
This will provide lovely drinking now and on into 2010. There are oak and smoke aromas while the deep, rich and concentrated fruit flavours - sweet currant and bramble berry - fairly gush in the mouth. It provides a fleshy texture on its medium-bodied frame while the warm finish (14.6% alcohol) is layered and lovely adding tarry and licorice notes. This is almost a meal in itself, but will pair nicely with smoked and bar b qued ribs. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Ring Bolt Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Margaret River $19.95 (606624)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Delicious, stylish, and well-paced, here's a Cab that over-delivers on fruit and complexity for its price. It's got food-friendly balance and manageable tannins, and overall makes an excellent buy and a great partner for grilled red meats. (RP)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Vasse Felix 'Adams Road' Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2003
Margaret River, Western Australia $24.95 (024653)
Light to medium-bodied, you can expect aromas of mint and berry fruit while the flavours are in the dark berry and black cherry zones with some bell pepper notes. The pleasant flavours of cherry and blueberry on the finish are ably supported by moderating acidity and perceptible, but certainly acceptable, tannins. This would be a lovely partner with roast leg of lamb. (VH)

South Africa: red

****1/2 drink now
Goats do Roam in Villages 2005
WO Coastal Region $15.95 (566851)
This blend of Shiraz, Pinotage and Mourvèdre (with a little Viognier in the best Rhône tradition, just to rub it in), is big, bold, and brash. It's rich and all dark fruit flavours with accents of spice, pepper, smoke and tar. The tannins are firm, there's a nice seam of acidity, and it's terrific with grilled lamb. (RP)

France: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Huet Le Haut Lieu Sec Vouvray 2005
AOC Vouvray $28.95 (705764)
This wine is from a unique site that is Demeter-certified, identifying it as a bio-dynamic winery adhering to the strictest regulations in sustainable agriculture. You may question the burying of cow horns and viticulture practices based on the changing positions of the planets and stars, but not this delectable wine. The aromas are expressive and floral while the fruit flavours are gooseberry, melon and fig. The texture is creamy and plush, and the tangy citrus flavours on the finish balance it all perfectly. This is Chenin Blanc at the top of its game. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Pascal Jolivet 'Château du Nozay' Sancerre 2005
AOC Sancerre $17.95 (972315) 375 mL; $31.95 (983130) 750 mL
Delightful and lifted aromas of nettles and gooseberry blast from this medium-bodied, fleshy-textured crisp and dry white. Sweet tropical fruit and pungent citrussy flavours coalesce to provide a pretty special tasting experience. The medium-length finish provides added red licorice and tarry notes. This is enjoyable sipping on its own and very well matched with steamed mussels. (VH)

France: red

**** drink or cellar
Château d'Angludet 2001
AOC Margaux $64.95 (029884)
This is drinking very nicely now, but it can be cellared for the next four or five years. It's a medium-bodied wine with lovely, focused fruit flavours in the blackberry-black cherry zone. The tannins are quite firm but easily manageable, and the balance is correct. Think of this for your next roast beef or steak. (RP)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château Notton 2004
AOC Margaux $34.95 (028043)
Medium-bodied and seductive, you can enjoy this red over the next 5 years. 2004 was a particularly strong vintage for Margaux with the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes ripening particularly well. Look for cranberry and tangy cherry flavours with noticeable tanginess on the palate and aftertaste. It is well balanced and provides a medium-length finish. It would be lovely matched with hearty stew, like osso bucco, or braised lamb shanks. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Louis Jadot 'Château des Lumières' 2003
AOC Morgon $25.95 (653584)
This wine is from one of the ten areas designated as Crus (aka the 'best' areas) in the Beaujolais wine region. This red opens up in the glass with delightful aromas of dark chocolate and red berries. The flavours are tangy and spicy with hints of cranberry and red currant. The finish is medium in length with another dollop of tanginess. A spicy tomato dish like lasagna would bring out the fruit flavours in the wine. (VH)

Germany - white

***1/2 drink or cellar
Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling Kabinett 2003
QmP Bernkasteler Badstube $22.95 (033407)
Look for typical aromas of petrol and mineral from the nose and then get set for a gusher of sweet peach and pear flavours juxtaposed to a delightful citrussy tang. The texture is fleshy and the finish provides even more of that sweet and tangy experience. This wine is a candidate for Asian food, like General Tso's chicken or a spicy vegetarian offering. (VH)

Italy: white

*** drink now
Villa Giada Ceirole Moscato d'Asti 2005
DOCG Moscato d'Asti $15.95 (699900)
This low alcohol (5%) white is spritzy, simple, sweet and straightforward. Intense and expressive aromas of lilacs, honey and grapes drift off the glass while the flavours are sweet key lime pie and sweet tropical fruit. Most commonly served as an aperitif, this would show much better as a dessert wine. Give it a go with fresh strawberries or raspberries lightly dusted with sugar. (VH)

Italy: red

**** drink or cellar
Travaglini Gattinara 2001
DOCG Gattinara $32.95 (713354)
This is a quite delicious red that delivers lovely flavours of dark plum, cherry, and blackberries with notes of spice and sweet flowers. It has a juicy texture but the drying tannins are still prominent. You might want to put a couple of these away for a year or two, but you can drink it now with rare red meat or with old cheddar. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Casa Girelli Virtuoso Syrah 2003
IGT Sicilia $21.95 (023440)
This is a delicious wine that offers great value. Look for rich flavours of blackberry and ripe cherry with vanilla, spicy and savoury notes. It has a good seam of acidity adding to it tangy texture, and it's perfect with all kinds of red meat. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Santa Margherita Shiraz 2004
IGT Sicilia $18.95 (028977)
Look for dense flavour and texture here, both with the moderating influences needed to make a successfully food-friendly wine. The flavours are all sweet black fruit and berries with spice and pepper notes, while the texture is rich but refreshing. The tannins are light enough, and you can enjoy this all summer with barbecued red meat. (RP)

***** cellar
Antinori Solaia 2003
IGT Toscana $149.95 (987586)
This is totally gorgeous, a hedonistic wine that seems almost over the top in some respects, thanks to the influence of the growing conditions in the torrid 2003 year. It's packed with vibrant dark fruit and berries and has a plush, velvety texture under a veneer of sleek, ripe tannins. Hold it for another two years, at least. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Poggi Salvi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano $32.95 (674283)
This is a beautiful Vino Nobile that wears the hot 2003 vintage remarkably lightly. It delivers dense but lively fruit flavours of dark cherries and berries with some violet notes and a hint of minerality. It's dry, with quite firm tannins, and goes beautifully with roasted or grilled red meats. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Loredan Gasparini Capo di Stato 2003
IGT Colli Trevigiani $29.95 (356295)
This is a blend of the four main Bordeaux varieties, and it produces a rich, concentrated and delicious red that reflects its vintage. The cherry, plum and berry flavours are sweet and ripe, and the tannins are firm and gripping. It's another candidate for all the red meat you plan to down during the barbecue season. (RP)

Lebanon: red

**** drink now
Domaine Wardy Merlot 2004
Bekaa Valley $15.95 (030577)
This is an attractive Merlot that over-delivers on flavour and texture. Look for rich, complex flavours of dark fruit and notes of pepper, spice and herbs. The texture, too, is rich and has an appealing tanginess from the good acidity. This tastes like a natural for grilled lamb. (RP)

Spain: red

**** drink or cellar
Bodegas Castano 'Hecula' 2004
DO Yecla $15.95 (718999)
Hecula is always popular, and the 2004 vintage offers the quality and value that will ensure that it sells through quickly. Its 100% Mourvèdre delivers quite powerful depth of flavour. You'll find black fruit and berries with notes of coffee, chocolate and spice, all within a well-structured frame. Drink it now (with well-seasoned red meat) or hold it two or three years, but make sure you get some. (RP)

Cheers, Vic and Rod


Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar