Winecurrent
Newsletter November 20, 2021

Newsletter Highlights:

  • 95 points and over – There is only one wine that rang the 95 points and over bell and it is the Domaine Carneros ‘Avante Garde’ Pinot Noir 2019 earning 95 points @ $36.95 found under Vintages Release: January 8, 2022
  • There are over 55 – There are over 55 wines reviewed in this newsletter.
  • Exceptional-value wine – There are many exceptional-value wines found throughout the newsletter and easily spotted by the Exceptional Value!  icon checkmark. Happy hunting!
  • Limited Time Offers –There are 29 wines that are reviewed in this newsletter and are also being discounted at the LCBO up to a $10.00 rebate for each bottle purchased from November 13 to November 28, 2021. They are waiting to be discovered at the end of the newsletter.
  • Louise Loves – Oyster Bay Cuvée Brut Sparkling Non-Vintage earned 90 points @ $22.95 found under Sparkling Wine; Ferraton Père & Fils ‘Le Parvis’ 2018 earned 93 points @ $58.95 found under France: Red Wine; Château des Charmes ‘Blanc de Blancs’ 2017 earned 93 points @ $34.95 and Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gewürztraminer 2018 earned 91 points @ $21.95 with both wines found Under New in Ontario Wineries.
  • Vic Picks – Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ 2016 earned 93 points @ $49.95 found under Sparkling Wine; Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2018 earned 91 points @ $19.95 found under Ontario: Red Wine; André Brunel ‘Cuvée Sabrine’ 2017 earned 90 points @ $17.95 found under France: Red Wine; 3 Rings Shiraz earned 91 points at $17.95 found under Australia: Red Wine; Bodegas Altanza ‘Lealtanza – Reserva’ 2015 earned 91 points @ $22.95 found under Spain: Red Wine.

Vintages Release: November 27, 2022

Fortified Wine: Port

92drink or cellar

Burmester 10-Year-Old Tawny Port - Non-Vintage 

DOC Douro $29.95 (223958) 20.0% alcohol

Aromatic and extremely versatile, this is also food friendly with a long, delicious, sweet aftertaste. Spice cake, iodine and orange marmalade on the nose, it bathes the palate with round fleshy flavours—toffee apple, crème caramel and toasted almonds. Tawny Port gains its name from the tawny colour from many years aged in barrel—resolving tannin and imparting a silky-smooth, lip-smacking experience. Lovely on its own, serve slightly chilled with consommé, fruit cake or Amarelo cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

• The following méthode traditionelle, vintage-dated, 2016 Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ is named for family matriarch Catherine Smith—Henry of Pelham’s wife. It was hand harvested, bunch selected from 100% chardonnay, whole-cluster pressed, partially barrel fermented, maturing on its lees more than four years in the bottle(s) you purchase before disgorgement—aka, expelling spent yeast cells from the 2nd fermentation in this bottle.

93drink or cellar Oh Canada!  

Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ 2016

VQA Short Hills Bench $49.95 (315200) 12.5% alcohol

This top-notch, vintage-dated sparkling wine is one of the top traditional-method, vintage-dated sparkling wines on the market, regardless of country of origin. Aromas of yeasty notes, baking brioche and flinty minerality make way for a profusion of fine-bead bubbles that endlessly wind their way to the top of your glass. This has complexity, purity of fruit, good tension, is well balanced with a painter’s palette of lively flavour—a surge of racy lemon and lime tang adorned with white nectarine, nutty and mineral notes dazzle the palate infusing the lingering finish and aftertaste. This is classy, elegant and wired for sipping on its own for two or with festive food when entertaining, eg roast turkey or baked ham with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)

91drink now Oh Canada!

Megalomaniac ‘Bubblehead’ Sparkling Rosé Non-Vintage

VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (363655) 13.0% alcohol

Attractive aromas of freshly sliced strawberry and baking bread introduce this dry, Pinot Noir-based, traditional-method sparkler. It slashes across the palate and infuses the aftertaste with a sleek and austere line of racy, ruby red grapefruit and red currant tang. Give it a go with ceviche or poached oysters. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar

Domaine Ste-Michelle Brut Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage

Columbia Valley, Washington $19.95 (557637) 12.5% alcohol

Sharp-edged aromas of racy citrus, leesy notes and orange zest bubble from the glass with gusto. It explodes on the glass with myriad fruit flavours—Granny Smith apple, tropical fruit, white nectarine and pear—mingling with saline-tinged minerality and a boatload of tang and charm. It has good depth, deft balance and persistent purity of fruit from cork pop to last drop. Give it a go with seafood appetizers or lemon chicken. (Vic Harradine)

90drink now

Oyster Bay Cuvée Brut Sparkling Non-Vintage

Hawke’s Bay $22.95 (163634) 12.5% alcohol

This Charmat-method sparkling wine is made of 100% chardonnay kept in contact with the lees in a portion of the maturation process. It fills the air with aromas of fresh citrus, lactic notes, bread crumbs and mineral character. A nice froth expands on the palate expressing flavours of pink grapefruit, white peach, crispy crackers and a lingering minerality note turning saline in the medium-long finish. This is medium bodied with great acidity, pleasant mouthfeel and weight and a no-brainer partner to sea-salt chips. (Louise Boutin)

90drink now Exceptional Value!

Belcanto Di Bellussi Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene Superiore Non-Vintage

DOCG Valdobbiadene, Italy $18.95 (53215) 11.5% alcohol

This is crisp, clean and refreshing with notes of minerality and lemon acidity streaking across the palate preceded by a quiet nose of crisp green apple and minerality. There’s a solid line of acidity throughout with lime and pineapple peeking through on the finish. A lovely welcoming wine or serve with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine

• The following 2019 Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Riesling was sourced from the iconic 216 Weiss clone vines with a southern exposure that were shovel planted 35 years ago and now accredited Sustainable. Fruit was handpicked and moved by gravity once at the winery. It was gently destemmed sorted and whole-berry pressed then fermented in stainless steel at cool temperatures 15 - 17 °C as well a portion in 3000 L neutral oak foudres.

93drink or cellar Oh Canada!  

Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family - Reserve’ Riesling 2019

VQA Short Hills Bench $27.95 (643361) 9.8% alcohol

There are aromas of piquant spice, flinty minerality and wisps of petrol on the nose. It surges over the palate with a laser-like spine of tart, racy acidity that’s soon joined by lime cordial on the middle and back palate persisting through the finish and lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste decorated by oodles of pizzazz and Granny Smith apple. This is well paced and well priced, balanced, just off-dry and generous on the palate, it’s an easy wine to match with seafood. Give scallops quickly pan-seared in butter in a hot skillet a try, or a platter of mussels steamed in white wine, leeks and cream. Pick up a few bottles and enjoy over the next five or six years. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!

Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2018

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 12.5% alcohol

This is lip-smacking good from twist top to last drop with the price-quality ratio skewed in your favour. Delicate aromas of dark berry fruit, floral notes and exotic incense waft from the glass, A delightfully lively flow of crunchy red fruit—cherry, passion fruit and cranberry—race over the palate with great élan. Somewhere around mid-palate a dollop of ripe dark cherry makes itself known enhancing the balance of fruit and acidity. It’s a great sipping wine and pours well with spicy tomato pasta. (Vic Harradine) 

• The following 2019 Henry of Pelham (Speck Family Reserve) Pinot Noir is barely a teenager, though strutting its stuff now and certainly flashing signs of an enhanced future after even short-term cellaring. Sourced from older vines—some shovel planted 35 years before this fruit was harvested—that are sustainably grown under, and accredited by, SWM. Fruit was hand harvested, gently destemmed and mechanically sorted. It was then stainless steel vat fermented with the cap punched down by hand. It was then aged in European oak, 30% new then married together with the balance in pre-loved oak with total oak maturation being ten months.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!    

Henry of Pelham (Speck Family Reserve) Pinot Noir 2019

VQA Short Hills Bench $34.95 (657874) 13.0% alcohol

Grilled savoury herbs and mixed spice aromas mingle with red berry fruit on the nose of this young and fresh pinot. A lively flow of flavours race over the palate with crunchy pie cherry and passionfruit intertwined with sweet black plum and hints of black cherry along with savoury herbs and a firm tannin underpinning. There’s replays of palate flavours and mouth-watering tang on the lengthy finish. Time in the cellar should pay off handsomely, pick up a few and pour starting in 2023. Impatient? Aerate/decant three hours and pour alongside roast fowl with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine

93drink or cellar

Caymus ‘Special Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Napa Valley $199.95 (711663) 14.0% alcohol

Very dark, almost opaque, aromas of raspberry jam, spice and wisps of blueberry fill the air and lead to an array of flavour bringing unbridled enjoyment. A full-bodied, generously textured stream of black raspberry and juicy, dark Bing cherry interwoven with dark chocolate, kirsch liqueur, elegance and charm coat the palate persisting through the lingering, balanced finish. Aerate/decant three hours for maximum enjoyment. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

• The following 2020 Gérard Bertrand ‘Réserve – Spéciale’ Viognier was sourced from low-yielding estate vines that were pressed on arrival at the winery then placed in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. Fermentation is under cool and controlled temperature while malo-lactic fermentation was halted.

89drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  

Gérard Bertrand ‘Réserve – Spéciale’ Viognier 2020

IGP Pays d’Oc, France 14.95 (147975) 13.5% alcohol

Aromas of honey-drizzled Bartlett pear, fragrant, sweet melon and notions of ripe apricot dominate the nose. It blankets the palate with sharp minerality, tangy blood orange, peach marmalade and hints of lemon curd delivering more of the same on the finish and mouth-watering aftertaste. Refreshing on its own, it shines with lemon chicken, seafood and line-caught freshwater fish… pickerel anyone? (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

• The following 2017 André Brunel ‘Cuvée Sabrine’ is a red blend of the holy trinity of the top-notch Rhône red grape blend with all of the following grapes hand harvested from vines with an average age of 60 years old—70% grenache/20% syrah/ 10% mourvèdre—a.k.a. ‘GSM’.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

André Brunel ‘Cuvée Sabrine’ 2017

AOC Côtes Du Rhône Villages - Sabrine, France $17.95 (538496) 14.5% alcohol

Shy aromas of dark berry fruit, black plum and notes of vanilla bean can be coaxed from the glass. A gorgeous mouthful of palate flavours follow with black juicy plum and cherry melding with tangy red fruit—cranberry and passionfruit—providing a perfectly balanced experience with plenty of pizzazz and versatility at the table. Pour with lamb tagine, grilled-rare skirt steak, grilled gourmet sausage or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Ferraton Père & Fils ‘Le Parvis’ is a blend of primarily grenache along with a small percentage of syrah and mourvèdre. It was sourced from typical Rhone Valley soils of red clay, and rounded pebbles from the Rhone River. Grapes are destemmed at the winery then vinified in vats with extraction by punch-downs and pumping over with maceration lasting approximately 20 days at temperatures between 25 – 30 °C.

93drink or cellar

Ferraton Père & Fils ‘Le Parvis’ 2018

AOP Châteauneuf-Du-Pape, France $58.95 (638551) 15.0% alcohol

You’ll be greeted with a complex nose of beautiful aromas—dark cherry, cola, coffee beans and baking spice. An opulent and silky liquid caress the palate delivering flavours of dark cherry, cooked strawberry and a hint of orange zest all wrapped in a lasting warm blanket, remember this is 15% alcohol. The finish offers a persistent combination of ripe red fruit flavour and dry herb mingling perfectly together. This gorgeous full-bodied red with polished tannins will benefit from 2-3 hours of aeration/decant to ease the heat on most palates. This is a great wine to pair with slow-simmered beef and carrot stew or venison dishes. (Louise Boutin)

Spain: Red Wine

• The following 2015 Bodegas Altanza ‘Lealtanza – Reserva’ Tempranillo-based gem matured 18 months in French oak barrels then settled a further three months in large, pre-loved, French—Allier—oak vats.

91drink or cellar

Bodegas Altanza ‘Lealtanza – Reserva’ 2015

DOCa Rioja, Spain $22.95 (208223) 14.0% alcohol

Aromas of dark bramble berry and black cherry interlace with pipe tobacco, piquant spice and grilled savory herbs. It flows over the palate with ripe sweet flavours—black plum, kirsch liqueur and black currant jelly framed with good tang and acidity and underpinned by soft tannin. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and a nicely balanced finish and aftertaste. This is well paced and well priced. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring alongside grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Seasonal Selection Release in LCBO: Friday, January 7, 2022

• The following 2020 Gérard Bertrand ‘Change - Organic’ Merlot is part of a passion that Gérard Bertrand has for changing vineyards and winemaking practices to be recognised as organic wines. Hand-harvested merlot is 100% de-stemmed before vatting. The grapes are then macerated for 10 to 15 days at controlled temperatures. Pump-overs are adjusted to enable the extraction of polyphenols and fruity aromas. Following malolactic conversion the wine is then matured for a few months in vats.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Gérard Bertrand ‘Change - Organic’ Merlot 2020
IGT Pays d’Oc, France $15.95 (22499) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, luscious aromas of bramble berry, piquant spice and savoury herbs abound on the nose of this accredited organic red wine. It envelops the palate with a river teeming with tightly packed dark cherry/berry/plum flavours underpinned by soft, supple tannin, sharp spice and plenty of mouth-watering acidity. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and texture along with persistent purity of fruit through the entire tasting experience. Pour with rich beef stew or your favourite grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: January 8, 2022

• The following 2019 Domaine Carneros ‘Avante Garde’ Pinot Noir was sourced from all five estate vineyards in the Carneros AVA. The wine is fermented in small open-topped tanks then matured for eight months in Burgundian French oak barrels that were selected from special cooperages that complement the flavour and aroma profile of this wine.

95drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Domaine Carneros ‘Avante Garde’ Pinot Noir 2019
Carneros, California $36.95 (11528) 13.8% alcohol
Divine aromas of sharp, red fruit—red cherry, red berry—interlace with grilled savoury herbs, beetroot and piquant spice notes in this light ruby-hued beauty. It caresses the palate with spice-infused palate flavours of ripe black currant, crunchy red currant and ripe and juicy black Bing cherry, along with black bramble berry. This offers up deft balance of fruit flavours, delightful acidity and an underpinning of ripe, fine-grained tannin. Pour with coq au vin, boeuf Bourguignon or crown roast of pork. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Ivory & Burt ‘Old Vine Zinfandel’ pays homage to two of the early settlers in Lodi—Charles Ivory and J.M. Burt. The Lodi soils are rich in minerals and well drained along with a Mediterranean climate of warm afternoons and cool evenings that allows grapes to develop ripe fruit flavours. These fruit-forward wines have nice acid balance that characterize the quintessential Lodi style that has made and kept its sterling reputation. This is 100% sustainably grown and ages in new American oak.

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Ivory & Burt ‘Old Vine Zinfandel’ 2018
Lodi, California $19.95 (479303) 15.0% alcohol
Ripe and rich aromas of black cherry/berry fruit and mixed spice and savoury herbs abound on the nose of this rich, luscious Zin. It surges over the palate with black currant, black raspberry and hints of passionfruit and pie cherry that balance each other on the palate and throughout the finish and aftertaste. This has depth and complexity along with a good underpinning of supple tannin. Give it a go with grilled and smoked back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: January 22, 2022

• The following 2017 Jim Barry Wines ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz was sourced from low-yielding shiraz vines grown on soils of rich loam over near-vertical sheets of rock. The now soil-filled passageways allow vine roots to work their way down to water from this nature-induced drainage system. It should be noted that Jim Barry Wines was proclaimed by James Halliday as 2020 Winery of the Year; a much sought-after recognition and prize in Australia.

92drink or cellar
Jim Barry ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz 2018
Clare Valley, Australia $22.95 (998476) 14.0% alcohol
Bramble berry, blueberry and ripe mulberry intertwine with peppery spice flavours on entry to the palate before joining up with baking spice and dark bittersweet chocolate mid-palate. This showcases good balance, a supple underpinning of polished, fine-grain tannin and plenty of excellent acidity and touches of elegance. It’s medium-bodied, nicely textured with a lengthy and balanced finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBD, 2022

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Cave de Cleebourg Gewürztraminer 2018

AOC Alsace, France $17.95 13.5% alcohol

This straw-hued, Gold Medal winning gewürz leaps from the glass with lifted aromas of piquant spice, rosewater, mangoes and apricots; along with considerable spritz tingling the tongue with each pour. It’s fully textured with good mouthfeel and a strong, off-dry (15 g/L residual sugar), spice-laden, pulsing, palate-flavours persisting through the finish and aftertaste. Pour with tarte d’Alsace or your favourite spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Cave de Cleebourg Pinot Gris won a Gold Medal in a prestigious tasting in Paris, France in 2019. This wine underwent a slow pressing and malolactic conversion.

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Cave de Cleebourg Pinot Gris 2018

AOC Alsace, France $17.95 13.5% alcohol

Aromas of peach, pear and apple intertwine with sharp citrus notes that all waft easily from the gold-hued liquid in the glass. It blankets the palate with a gusher of flavours—Mirabelle plum, Meyer lemon and Key lime intertwined with notions of buckwheat honey. It’s tang-laden with good mouthfeel and texture throughout. It showcases deft balance, persistent purity of fruit flavour and a crisp, refreshing and lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own or paired with pan-seared fish or steamed mussels or lightly spiced Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Paringa Shiraz was sourced from low-yielding vines of 4 tons per acre. This was eventually matured in 50% new and 50% pre-loved 300L French oak barrels for a minimum of one year.

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Paringa Shiraz 2018
GI South Australia $15.95 14.9% alcohol
This is purple/black hued and almost opaque sitting in the glass. Aromas of, espresso roast and black currant appear with the slightest of swirls. It’s rich and powerful on the palate with baking spice and white pepper giving way to crème de cassis and kirsch liqueur flavours and a fruit bowl of ripe and ready cherry/berry/plum flavours both red and black that persist through the lengthy finish and aftertaste. This is medium-full bodied with plenty of pizzazz and the price-quality balance tipped well in your favour—pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Non-Vintage Cave de Cleebourg Crémant d’Alsace Auxerrois Brut was sourced from 100% Auxerrois and fashioned Méthode Traditionnelle with the 2nd fermentation having taken place in the bottle(s) you purchase as it does with Champagne. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; pick up a few when released.

90drink Exceptional Value!
Cave de Cleebourg - Crémant d’Alsace - Auxerrois – Brut - Non-Vintage
AOC Crémant d’Alsace, France $18.95 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of orange zest, smoky notes and notions of Meyer lemon and minerality dominate the nose. In pouring, you’ll release millions of fine-bead bubbles that gather at the top of your wine while pouring in the glass and it has a proper name – mousse. This has plenty, much the same as Champagne at 5.5 bars of pressure. It rides a tide of piquant citrus notes along with saline minerality and sweet ripe apple from first to last sip leaving you a balanced crisp, refreshing taste and enough sweetness throughout. Pick up a few at this price, no need to wait for a special occasion; and pour a glass to welcome friends and also along with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2020 Cantine Damilano ‘Barbera d’Asti’ is sourced from 20- to 30-year-old vines of 100% Barbera grapes that were aged in mostly stainless steel and 20% new barrels. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour.

92drink Exceptional Value!
Cantine Damilano– Barbera d’Asti 2020
DOCG Barbera d’Asti, Italy $17.95 (541771) 15.5% alcohol
Medium-ruby hued in the glass it explodes with exotic spices and lively fresh red cherry/berry fruit and floral notes galore on the nose. A balanced and bountiful gusher of red and black currant, black juicy cherry and sweet, ripe mulberry decorated with grilled savoury herbs and a racy streak of tang and pizzazz provide a glorious mouthful of pure ambrosia. This is medium-full bodied with excellent texture and mouthfeel and showcases good balance, persistent fruit-driven flavours and a lingering finish and aftertaste with replays of palate-flavours. It’s delicious and lip-smacking good. Pour with pasta in Bolognese sauce or pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2019 Cantine Damilano – Marghe - Langhe – Nebbiolo is 100% Nebbiolo grapes sourced from thirty- to fifty-year old vines. This was aged in in large oak barrels for 12 months. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Cantine Damilano – Marghe - Langhe – Nebbiolo – 2019
DOC Nebbiolo, Italy $19.95 (576793) 14.0% alcohol
Light-ruby hued with a touch of orange when poured in the glass. Aromas of leather and sweet pipe tobacco intertwine with floral notes, piquant spice and red cherry/berry fruit. A tannin- and tang-laced river envelops the palate with flavours of pie cherry and red currant on entry and milder black plum and ripe mulberry appear mid palate and persist throughout the finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant three or four hours before pouring and pairing with beef stroganoff. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

• The following wine may be purchased online from this link Casa-Dea Estates Winery. For a limited time only; buy 6 bottles or more of any wine and receive FREE shipping in Ontario.

• The following 2020 Casa Dea Estates Winery Pecorino is awaiting VQA confirmation for release of the following wine.

93drink now Oh Canada!
Casa Dea Estates Winery Pecorino 2020
Prince Edward County $34.95 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of floral notes, lemon citrus and hints of fennel abound on the nose of this tang-laden gem. It races over the palate on a laser-like streak of gorgeous acidity expressed as passionfruit, lemon-lime citrus notes and saline minerality that persist through the finish and aftertaste, full of tang and lip-smacking good. Give this a go with freshly shucked East-coast oysters dotted with hot sauce, a squeeze of fresh lemon and a smidgeon of horseradish. (Vic Harradine)

• The following two Château des Charmes wines are available at the winery and online at this link for Château des Charmes for shipping to your home, office or restaurant.
 
• Crafted like a Blanc de Blancs champagne with 100% chardonnay, this Méthode Traditionnelle bubbly from Château des Charmes is aged in bottle for at least two years while resting on its lees from its 2nd fermentation in the bottle(s) you purchase. The bottles are disgorged just before being released from the winery, a sign of extra special care for a premium quality wine.

93drink or cellarOh Canada!
Château des Charmes ‘Blanc de Blancs’ 2017
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $34.95 423111 12.5% alcohol
This vintage dated, traditional method sparkling offers fresh aromas of green apple, lime and lemon zest, leesy notes and a whiff of slate. A generous soft froth fills the mouth with lime zest character coupled with summer apple and pear flavours, plus brioche notes and mineral flair. This beautiful bubbly is comparable to an ‘extra brut’ in champagne classification sweetness level, so next to no residual sugar. The finish is fresh and crisp, perfect for smoked salmon appetizers or simply with sea-salt potato chips. (Louise Boutin)

91drink nowOh Canada!
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gewürztraminer 2018
VQA St. David’s Bench $21.95 12.5% alcohol
Paler in colour and not as perfumed as some gewürztraminers, this proudly shows delicate aromas of melon, apple, lychee and honey. It’s medium-bodied with a pleasant coating mouthfeel offering flavours replayed from the aroma profile plus a perfect dash of citrus acidity and classic piquant ginger note adding to the long and delicious finish. This aromatic white will charm the most ardent sceptic. Try with a salmon poke bowl dressed with pickled ginger and sesame seeds. (Louise Boutin)

• Order the following wine by the bottle(s) or case(s) for daily delivery to home, office or restaurant online from this link to Henry of Pelham – There is free delivery on 12 or more bottles in Ontario. Select ‘12 Bottles+’ at check out and allow up to 10 days for delivery or, order online then pick up bottle(s) or case(s) from the winery at 1469 Pelham Rd, St. Catharines ON. Here’s a map.

• The following 2020 Speck Bros. ‘Sibling Rivalry – White’ was sourced from riesling, chardonnay and gewürztraminer from select vineyards in the VQA Niagara Peninsula. This wine reflects the dazzling 2020 vintage across all VQA appellations.

90drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Speck Bros. ‘Sibling Rivalry – White 2020
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (126144) 12.0% alcohol
This opens with an array of white-wine aromas with floral notes, rosewater, exotic incense and mixed spice to the fore. It unleashes a gusher of tang-laden palate-flavours—white grapefruit and lemon-lime cordial—that quickly turns to off-dry on the mid-palate and persists with well-balanced, tangy pizzazz and notions of minerality before turning lip-smacking delicious on the lengthy finish and aftertaste. The price-quality proposition swings wildly in your favour, pick up a few and pour on its own or with pan-seared or oven-baked fish for matches made in heaven. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages (available now! in many LCBO retail stores)

• The following 2020 Speck Bros. ‘Sibling Rivalry – White’ was sourced from riesling, chardonnay and gewürztraminer from select vineyards in the VQA Niagara Peninsula. This wine reflects the dazzling 2020 vintage across all VQA appellations.

90drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Speck Bros. ‘Sibling Rivalry – White 2020
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (126144) 12.0% alcohol
This opens with an array of white-wine aromas with floral notes, rosewater, exotic incense and mixed spice to the fore. It unleashes a gusher of tang-laden palate-flavours—white grapefruit and lemon-lime cordial—that quickly turns to off-dry on the mid-palate and persists with well-balanced, tangy pizzazz and notions of minerality before turning lip-smacking delicious on the lengthy finish and aftertaste. The price-quality proposition swings wildly in your favour, pick up a few and pour on its own or with pan-seared or oven-baked fish for matches made in heaven. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Non-Vintage Juvé y Camps Pinot Noir - Brut Rosé – Cava was fashioned Méthode Traditionnelle with the 2nd fermentation undertaken in the bottle(s) you purchase and take home from the store as you would with Champagne. BTW, all Spanish Cava is fashioned in Méthode Traditionnelle thereby providing a top-notch sparkling wine at a more-than-fair price.

91drink or cellar
Juvé y Camps Pinot Noir - Brut Rosé – Cava - Non-Vintage
DO Spain, $24.95 (385088) 12.0% alcohol
There’s plenty to like about this Spanish Cava from cork pop to final drop. Alluring aromas of tangerine zest, strawberry and oodles of saline, mineral notes. It surges over the palate with a tang-laden river of blood orange, lemon curd and notions of pie cherry along with notions of freshly picked wild strawberry. It’s dry, crisp and refreshing throughout along with good balance, lots of pizzazz and is versatile at the table pouring well with salted nuts, sea-salt potato chips and lighter-styled hors d’oeuvres… enjoy on its own, as well. (Vic Harradine)

LCBO ‘Limited Time Offers’ – November 13 to November 28, 2021

• Regardless of the vintage you purchase from the LCBO, you’ll receive the discount shown below for each bottle of wine reviewed below that’s purchased (either ‘in person’ or online) from November 13 to November 28, 2021.

White Wine

• The following six wines will have a discount of $2.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from November 13 to November 28, 2021.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Chardonnay

Monterey/Napa/Sonoma Counties $21.95 (308122) 13.8% alcohol 

Multi-County fruit was whole-bunch pressed and fermented in stainless steel before settling and aged sur lie in French and American oak. A gorgeous array of baking spice, vanilla and orchard fruit aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavours—tropical fruit, sweet, ripe pear and hints of citrus and spice. It’s mid-weight and good value with generous texture, depth and complexity. It finishes balanced and mouth-watering. Pour with roast chicken, pork or veal. (Vic Harradine)

94drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!

Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (80234) 10.5% alcohol

Cascading aromas of floral notes, piquant minerality and notions of petrol roll easily from the glass. It blankets the palate with off-dry flavours of sweetened Meyer lemon, and lime cordial that replay on the finish and aftertaste with lip-smacking and mouth-watering variations that add mineral and green apple to the mix. This sips beautifully on its own and you won’t find many better matches than spicy Asian cuisine like moo choo pork or General Tso’s chicken; and… you won’t find many high-quality rieslings at this price; stock up while you can. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!

Flat Rock Cellars ‘Twisted’ Sparkling Wine 2020

VQA Ontario $17.95 (14421) 12.5% alcohol

Lifted aromas of Key lime, apricot and pear precede a sweet and tangy surge of palate flavours carried along on a vigorous mousse of small-bead bubbles that include racy lemon and white grapefruit juxtaposed with a balancing surge of ripe nectarine and sweet-ish lime cordial. It’s nicely balanced, crisp and mouth-watering refreshing on the palate, finish and aftertaste. This is a very well-priced, vintage-dated, Charmat-method fashioned bubbly that you may want to try and to keep on hand for drop-in friends and neighbours. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!   

Hidden Bench Estate Winery Chardonnay

VQA Beamsville Bench $29.95 (68817) 13.0% alcohol

This is an outstanding expression of certified-organic Niagara chardonnay. Pronounced aromas of red apple, white grapefruit, butterscotch and vanilla segue to a creamy-textured wash of apple, tangy citrus and spice notes on the palate. Dry, medium bodied, it’s well-balanced with a long, mouth-watering, mineral-laden finish. Delicious on its own or enjoy with almond-crusted halibut fillets. (Lisa Isabel)

88drink or cellar 

Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner's Reserve’ Chardonnay

California $21.95 (369686) 13.5% alcohol

Aromas of butter cream and toasted oak meld with hints of tropical fruit. It is medium-to-full bodied on the palate, with a refreshing acidity. Flavours of oak and pineapple are carried through the finish, where they are joined with a hint of grapefruit. This will be a nice match for baked cod. (Dave Isaacs)

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!   

Malivoire Wine Company ‘Estate Grown’ Chardonnay

VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (573147) 12.5% alcohol

Alluring aromas of baked apple, cinnamon and notions of caramel abound. It gently washes over the palate with a touch of sweetness accompanied by tangy flavours of lemon-lime and flinty minerality. This is medium-bodied with good balance and textured mouthfeel. It finishes lengthy, crisp and refreshing with hints of grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. Pour alongside skillet-seared Atlantic salmon. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine will have a discount of $3.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from November 13 to November 28, 2021.

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!      

Thirty Bench ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Riesling

VQA Beamsville Bench $22.95 (24133) 10.8% alcohol

The lifted nose of lime and piquant spice aromas is also decorated with sharp mineral notes and notions of petrol. An off-dry surge of citrus-infused flavours explode on the palate with lemon curd and lime cordial providing pizzazz along with delicious accoutrements of melon, minerality and under-ripe orchard fruit. It’s medium-weight with a bountiful, lip-smacking finish. Divine sipped on its own, it pours well with grilled or pan-seared fish, steamed mussels or breaded and skillet-fried calamari. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

• The following eight wines will have a discount of $2.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from November 13 to November 28, 2021.

93drink or cellar

Tommasi Valpolicella Classico Superior ‘Ripasso’

DOC Valpolicella Classico Superior, Veneto $24.95 (910430) 14.0% alcohol

A quiet nose of sweet black berry fruit opens up a glorious experience for lucky tasters. The fruit-forward nature of this wine unleashes a salvo of flavours including rich and concentrated cherry and bramble berry infused with fruit cake spice and dark chocolate. The memorable finish has gobs of black sweet fruit and black pepper with a hint of cigar box. At this price, flip open the trunk and toss in a case. (Vic Harradine)

90drink now Exceptional Value!

Borsao ‘Tres Picos’ Garnacha

DO Campo de Borja, Spain $19.95 (273748) 15.0% alcohol

This gem has developed quite the following. Aromas of black plum, fig and savory herbs set the tone for a rich, hedonistic river of bramble berry and black currant robed in lip-smacking acidity adorned with peppery notes and fennel. There are ripe fine-grained tannin adding structure and interest. It’s nicely balanced with a fruit and tang-filled finish. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  

Catena ‘High Mountain Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon

Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (985002) 13.5% alcohol

The price-quality ratio swings wildly in your favour here. Tobacco, dark cherry/berry fruit and grilled savoury herb aromas abound. This gorgeous cab envelops the palate with a plush, full-bodied swath of ripe black plum, juicy black cherry and hints of cassis and mocha. It’s complex, deftly balanced and dense with a lengthy finish enhanced by lip-smacking tang and acidity. Give this a go with grilled gourmet sausage, steak or backyard burgers. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!   

Famille Perrin ‘Réserve’ Côtes-du-Rhône 

AOC Côtes-du-Rhône, France $16.95 (363457) 13.5%alcohol 

A Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend offering up a nose of cedar, green herbs and red berry fruit mingling with kitchen spice. It’s medium-bodied with a persistent wash of red currant and cranberry mingling with savoury herbs and spice. The aftertaste is dry with mixed field berry fruit and spiced black plum underpinned by a lick of supple tannin. Try with grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

90drink now Exceptional Value!

Bodegas Julian Chivite ‘Gran Fuedo Reserva’

DO Navarra $18.95 (479014) 13% alcohol

Here’s a red blend—Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot—delivering a delicious mouthful of flavour-packed value. Black currant, spice, minty cherry and cassis on the nose and palate, it washes over the palate in waves with a good underpinning of dusty tannin. Mid weight with a generous mouth feel, the lingering well-balanced finish is fruit-forward and refreshing. Great with grilled t-bone, ribs or burgers. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellarExceptional Value!    

M. Chapoutier ‘Les Vignes de Bila-Haut’ Côtes du Roussillon-Village

AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $15.95 (168716) 14.0% alcohol

Consistently great value, this southern Rhône blend of grenache, syrah and carignan opens with fresh red fruit and strawberry jam aromas with hints of vanilla, spice and an earthy note adding interest. Dry, medium bodied and well-structured with silky tannins and balancing acidity, spiced cherry and plum flavours generously coat the palate. The warming, lengthy finish delivers a wine well suited for braised beef short ribs. (Lisa Isabelle)

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

ring.bolt Cabernet Sauvignon

Margaret River $21.95 (606624) 14.5% alcohol

Floral, savory and dark berry fruit aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavours led by a palate-coating, gusher of ripe juicy fruit—ripe juicy black Bing cherry, black bramble berry and red currant—interlaced with black licorice, espresso roast and hints of cassis. Showcasing good purity of fruit and with depth and complexity, this is medium-full bodied with creamy-smooth mouthfeel and a lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

88drink or cellar

Rodney Strong ‘Sonoma County’ Cabernet Sauvignon

Sonoma County $27.95 (226944) 13.5% alcohol

Savoury herbs and red berry fruit aromas precede medium-plus bodied, well-textured mouthfuls of black and red cherry/berry flavours adorned with grilled savoury herbs and charred toast. It’s fruit-filled and pours well with grilled rack of lamb or grilled striploin after a one- or two-hour aeration/decant. As California cab goes, this is certainly attractively priced. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine will have a discount of $2.50 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from November 13 to November 28, 2021.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Château Argadens

AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $18.95 (681643) 13.5% alcohol

This property was bought in 2002 and named Château Argadens to recognize the name of the family that founded the estate in the 16th century. It’s 63% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc woven together displaying aromas of black fruit, dark cocoa and sweet vanilla. Ripe red cherry and plum merge with earthy, savoury notes of cedar and dry leaves on the palate. This wine is full bodied and deftly balanced with well-integrated tannins and a lengthy finish. (Lisa Isabelle)

• The following six wines will have a discount of $3.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from November 13 to November 28, 2021.

88drink or cellar

Concha y Toro ‘Winemaker’s Lot 148’ Carmenère

Rapel Valley, Chile $18.95 (30957) 14.0% alcohol

This is good value and it’s rich, ripe and rarin’ to go now. A beautifully balanced river of juicy black Bing cherry and black plum interweave with racy pomegranate and herbal notes on the creamy smooth palate along with mixed spice and mocha. It’s a bit funky on the nose with some bell pepper and strong herbal notes, but that melts away and you’re left with a creamy-smooth, hedonistic offering. It pours and pairs well with burgers, red pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!    

Hidden Bench Estate ‘Organic’ Pinot Noir

VQA Beamsville Bench $34.95 (274753) 12.7% alcohol

A subdued nose of red berry fruit and spice provide segue for a gorgeous mouthful of deftly balanced racy tang—pie cherry and red currant—and ripe juicy fruit—black plum and dark Bing cherry. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and a delectable lingering finish of mixed spice with wisps of toasty oak and soft tannin. Pour this organic gem with rack of lamb or crown roast of pork. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Mitolo ‘Jester’ Shiraz

McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (659607) 14.5% alcohol

This is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in select stores. Dark and mysterious at first glance, it reveals itself with aromas of plum and cassis accented with cedar, mint and hints of black pepper. It starts with vibrant, juicy ripe cherry and black currant accented with dark chocolate and sweet spice, finishing warm with velvety tannins. Enjoy this full-bodied, rich and luscious red with spiced, grilled lamb chops. (Lisa Isabelle)

93drink or cellar Oh Canada!  

Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2019

VQA Okanagan Valley, B. C. $34.95 (585760) 13.0% alcohol

Lifted aromas of barnyard, beet root and earthy notes provide segue for a delightful mouthful of pure pinot noir ambrosia with red currant, passion fruit and lip-smacking tang and acidity to the fore. It envelops the palate with mixed spice and red currant jelly balanced nicely with mouth-watering tang. This is medium-weight with good mouthfeel, deft balance and a luxurious, lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour now alongside smoked duck breasts, pan-seared salmon fillet or a roast turkey with all the fixings or baked ham on the bone dotted with cloves. (Vic Harradine)

93drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  

Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Shiraz

Clare Valley, South Australia $19.95 (943787) 14.5% alcohol

Aromas of black cherry, berry and plum intertwine with baking spice and cocoa on the nose of this value-packed shiraz. It spreads over the palate creamy smooth and medium-plus bodied while unleashing a gusher of fruit-forward flavour of ripe mulberry, black plum and ripe Bing cherry adorned with balancing tang and a boatload of pizzazz. It showcases persistent purity of fruit, is balanced on a pin and sports a dry, delectable finish with palate replays plus a hint of cassis and dark, bittersweet chocolate. Pour with friends and slow-cooked lamb shoulder or grilled rack of lamb. Pick up a few and drink over the next seven or eight years. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar

Zenato ‘Ripassa – Superiore’

DOC Superiore Ripasso, Italy $27.95 (479766) 14.0% alcohol

Leftover grape skins and seeds (pomace) from Amarone and Recioto wine are added to the crushed and fermenting grapes of this wine, with the potential of adding colour, tannin, alcohol, texture, flavour and complexity. This is medium-full bodied, overflowing with rich flavour—sweet dried currant, spiced pie cherry, fig and mocha—sporting a well-balanced long succulent aftertaste. This has the oomph and structure to pair well with grilled steak or the heartiest of stews, like osso buco. It’s a step up in price and quality; you might give it a try. (Vic Harradine)

• The following two wines will have a discount of $5.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from November 17 to November 28, 2021.

86drink or cellar

The Prisoner 2015

Napa Valley $54.95 (104299) 15.2% alcohol

Aromas of spice box and berry fruit precede this high-alcohol bruiser of a fruit bomb dishing up sweet, ripe jammy flavours of black currant, boysenberry and dark plum adorned with kirsch liqueur and hints of ripe tannin. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a lengthy finish and aftertaste. It’s a hedonist’s delight from start to finish and pairs well with tandoori chicken and garlic naan. (Vic Harradine)

93drink or cellar  

Tommasi ‘Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico’

DOCG Valpolicella Classico $49.95 (356220) 15.0% alcohol

Dried raisins and wisps of figs on the nose, this shifts into high gear with a gorgeous river of deep, rich fruit flavour—black plum compote and black cherry—and hints of Ribena coating the palate infusing the lingering finish. It was crafted from hand-harvested Corvina/Corvinone/ Rondinella/Oseleta and aged in Slovenian oak barrel. It’s full bodied and well balanced with firm structure and good bones. Drink now, after a two-hour aeration/decant, and on to 2023. (Vic Harradine)

Other Wines and Spirits

• The following wine will have a discount of $4.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from November 13 to November 28, 2021.

90drink or cellar Oh Canada! 

Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $28.95 200ml (565861) 9.5% alcohol

This is the perfect after-dinner treat on its own or with dessert and … it’s the ideal size for two or three people to enjoy. Aromas and flavours of mango-infused treacle, candied-peel marmalade and racy lemon curd interweave on the nose, palate and delectable finish and aftertaste—this is absolutely delicious. It’s also the perfect hostess gift presented in an attractive box. (Vic Harradine)

• The following two wines will have a discount of $2.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from November 13 to November 28, 2021.

89drink or cellar

Foss Marai Prosecco ‘Extra Dry’ Non-Vintage

DOC Prosecco $19.95 (729392) 11.5% alcohol

A tempting nose of floral and citrussy notes tingle the nose and provide a fitting entry to this very well-priced sparkler. Nothing complicated, but everything is in balance, from the frothy attack of tropical fruit flavours and lemon zest to the lovely tang of acidity on the finish. Serve well chilled to guests as a welcoming wine. (Vic Harradine)

92drink now Oh Canada!  

Reif Vidal Icewine

VQA Niagara River, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 200 mL (544791) 10.0% alcohol

Apricot, truffles and honeyed pear on the nose, this coats the palate with a glorious wash of peel marmalade, apricot and piquant spice along with notions of lemon curd and a fruit bowl of honey-dipped tropical fruit. It cleans up nicely on the back palate and aftertaste with good, balancing acidity and tang to the rescue allowing following sips to be as enjoyable as the previous. Pour with aged Gouda or pan-seared foie gras. (Vic Harradine)

88drink or cellarOh Canada!

Jackson-Triggs ‘Reserve’ Vidal Icewine

VQA Ontario $39.95 (389411) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol 

Mango and ripe yellow peach aromas unleash a gusher of sweet, honeyed flavour on the palate with honey-drizzled peach pie and candied apricot coating the palate and persisting through the finish. It’s full bodied and generously textured delivering a sticky, sweet aftertaste. Pour with quality blue cheese or fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine will have a discount of $10.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from November 13 to November 28, 2021.

94drink now

Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut Champagne Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $102.95 (158550) 12.0% alcohol

Made from 100% pinot noir, this was vinified saignée—using only red grapes, not red wine mixed with white, as is usually done in Champagne—capturing tantalizing spice, red licorice and berry fruit aromas and an alluring salmon-pink colour. It attacks the palate with mid weight, generous texture and a groundswell of flavour with black currant, strawberry and spiced Damson plum to the fore. This is lovely sipped on its own with the oomph to pair well with pan-seared salmon or festive bird. (Vic Harradine)

Stay safe, stay healthy. Best wishes and good thoughts from all of us:

Lisa, Louise, Dave, Vic