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Winecurrent - April 28 Release

This release begins with a feature on France, region by region, then follows on with the usual categories.

Bordeaux: red

**** drink now
Château Haut-Vigneau 2003
AOC Pessac-Léognan $24.95 (029678)
Sweet black currant and toasty aromas drift off the glass of this medium-bodied red. The palate is treated to a plush, almost creamy, texture and a gorgeous cornucopia of ripe red berry flavours that are nicely balanced off with good zest and a ripe tannin structure. The blistering hot '03 vintage was held in check as this is not jammy. It was exploited perfectly producing sweet, warm flavours while retaining acidity for balance. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château les Cabannes 2004
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $23.95 (973727)
Aromatics of black cherry and smoke provide the segue to this light to medium-bodied gem. Look for flavours of Montmorency cherry, plum, a touch of cranberry and an outstanding flavourful and well balanced finish. The region has a high predominance of Merlot, producing wines that are fruity and food-friendly. This dry red shines with veal scallopini. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Château Pey La Tour 'Réserve du Château' 2004
AOC Bordeaux Sup
érieur $22.15 (925859)
Bramble berry and licorice pour off the aromatic profile of this gorgeous red blend. Look for these flavours on the beautifully textured palate along with some intermingled notes of mint, cassis and tar. Medium-bodied and ready to drink, it will also cellar well to 2011. This would pour proudly beside something rich and exotic. Try truffle-infused venison, or, less exotic, braised veal shanks. Exceptional value here. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de la Solitude Rouge 2004
AOC Pessac-Léognan $32.95 (031732)
Rich and rustic, this delivers up a muted nose of leather, black berry and toast, while the flavours are a fruit bowl mélange of berry and cherry underpinned by ripe tannin and good acidity that provide balance and interest. There is an unusual bite on the finish, not unpleasant, of spicy tar and bitters. Well matched to spicy beef. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
La Croix Bonis Rouge 2003
AOC St-Estèphe $29.95 (029686)
Smokey and bramble berry notes form the gorgeous nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon-predominant red that springs from an impeccable vineyard site. The 12 months in oak and lovely tannin structure has been beautifully integrated with sweet, rich, extracted flavours of spiced Bing cherry. Bold and robust, this is ready to go now with a 3 hour decant or to hold for another 5 years. Pour with a lamb daube and good friends. (VH)

Bordeaux: white
**** drink or cellar
Castelnau de Suduiraut 2003
AOC Sauternes 375 mL $24.95 (029694)
This second wine of Ch. Suduiraut, whose vines are nestled alongside its more famous neighbour d'Yquem, is yours to taste for a fraction the price. Spice, honey and mushroom aromas blast from the glass of this dessert wine. The flavours are a dazzling array of butterscotch and sweet citrus marmalade. There is lovely balance with enough good acidity to balance off the sweetness. Divine with crème brûlée. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Château Ducla Experience XIII Cuvée Sans Nom 2005
AOC Bordeaux $19.95 (023853)
Only lightly-coloured in the glass, the muted aromas wafting from the glass are reminiscent of honeycomb and green nettles. There are lovely tropical fruit flavours - peach and nectarine - and the finish adds a lovely addition of citrussy tang. Great for quaffing on the patio or matched to seafood appetizers. (VH)

Burgundy: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Coste-Caumartin Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers 2003
AOC Bourgogne $59.95 (712281)
The heavenly nose of spiced black currant opens up a dazzling rich, medium-bodied Pinot that oozes charm and flavour. Everything about this beauty is ripe and rich; the black juicy plum and cherry flavours, the perceptible tannin and the smooth lengthy finish. Good to go now with a decent decant, it will match up to Boeuf Bourguignon now to 2016. Well-priced. (VH)

Rhone: red

**** cellar
Jaboulet Cornas "Les Grandes Terrasses" 2003
AOC Cornas $44.95 (17806)
Expect a big, dark red with loads of complexity. The flavours are dominated by dark tree fruit and berries, with notes of spice and smoke, and the tannins are forward and firm. Hold this a couple of years and then drink it with red game meat. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Yann Chave Crozes-Hermitage 2005
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $24.95 (18812)
This is a very attractive Syrah that delivers aromas and flavours of black fruit accented with notes of spice, tar and smoke. It's still quite tannic and you can hang on to it for six or eight years, but it's drinking well now if you pair it with beef grilled rare. (RP)

Rhone: white wine

**** drink now
Mas des Bressades Cuvée Tradition Blanc 2006
AOC Costières de Nîmes $12.95 (701094)
The aromas are dominated by floral and citrus (lemon) that give way to good complexity, with flavours of apple, pear and soft spices, with hints of Muscat grapes. The fruit flavours are bright, and the acidity of crisp and clean. Pair this with spicy seafood dishes. (RP)

Alsace: white

**** drink now
Dopff au Moulin Gewurztraminer 2003
AOC Alsace $24.95 (028100)
A lovely nose of rosewater and spring flowers serves to introduce this tangy medium-bodied offering. The texture is plush with flavours of honey, spiced citrus and lychee. Look for that wonderful yin and yang of sweet and zesty flavours that pair so well with spicy Asian cuisine. Try Indonesian chicken satay. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris Réserve 2004
AOC Alsace $16.95 (983395)
Mineral and slate aromas abound on this light-on-its-feet white. The svelte structure is fashioned with citrus, white peach and green apple notes, It finishes quite clean, dry and refreshing. Light-bodied wine lovers will enjoy this on the deck for sipping or as a complement to lightly peppered and garlicked cold prawns. (VH)

Loire Valley: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de Saint-Just Saumur Blanc 2005
AOC Saumur Blanc $13.95 (17632)
Look for lovely sweet fruit flavours of apricot and peach within a lush, mouth-filling texture. The whole is complemented by great acid crispness, and this makes a great partner for spicy Thai dishes. (RP)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Vigneau-Chevreau Vouvray Cuvée Domaine 2005
AOC Loire $21.95 (017665)
Dotted amongst the magnificent chateaux are picturesque vineyards of Chenin Blanc producing medium-bodied delightful whites that provide an interesting alternative to the more traditional grape varieties. An expressive nose of lemon sorbet is the segue to this clean and refreshing white that offers citrus and apple flavours and a lovely balanced finish. Pour alongside pan-fried salmon under a squirt of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

Midi: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Cesseras Rouge 2003
AOC Minervois-La Livinière $19.95 (590570)
This is a luscious, juicy red blend (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache). It's dominated by concentrated, sweet dark fruit (this is from the hot 2003 vintage) with good complexity, and the tannins are firm and manageable. This is great with well-seasoned lamb chops, grilled medium-rare. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Treviac Rouge 2005
AOC Corbières $14.95 (670505)
The first thing that strikes you about this wine is its superb balance. It's a blend of Syrah (80%) and Grenache (20%) that delivers sweet, dark, complex fruit, wonderful acid balance, and sweet, ripe tannins. Overall, it's smooth and sleek, and it makes a great match for any rich red meat dish. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château l'Hospitalet la Réserve Rouge 2005
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $18.95 (682492)
This one sneaks up on you with a muted nose of berry fruit and toast. It gets into high gear on the palate with a full-bore attack of black currant and Bing cherry flavours. It exhibits surprisingly good grip, given the silky smooth tannins, and finishes well balanced and spicy. This has been neatly put together and well-priced. A classy offering to be poured beside grilled strip loin and good friends. (VH)

Midi: white wine

****1/2 drink now
Réserve de Gassac "Sélection Guibert" Blanc 2005
Vin de Pays de l'Hérault $18.95 (608778)
From one of the Midi's premier producers who specializes in blends, this is a Chardonnay/Viognier-dominant blend that delivers wonderfully complex flavours of citrus, apple, peach, with notes of spice and white pepper. There's a lovely seam of acidity that makes this a perfect complement to spicy Asian dishes featuring chicken or pork. (RP)

Champagne

***** drink now
Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut
AOC Champagne $80.15 (158550)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A unique Champagne rosé that is not a blend of white and red wine; this is 100% Pinot Noir produced by the painstaking saignée method. All grapes were sourced from the finest (rated 100%) vineyards. Intriguing aromas of strawberry and dried cranberry form the nose while the attack is a medium-bodied mouthful of fresh red fruit and tangy notes. A serious bubbly that would stand proudly beside your turkey with all the fixings. (VH)

Niagara College Teaching Winery

***1/2 drink now
NCT Winery Unoaked Chardonnay 2005
VQA St. David's Bench $14.95 (040675)
Apple and over-ripe pear notes waft off this medium-bodied Niagara white. The flavours are all in the very sweet fruit zones - cantaloupe, apple and pear. It finishes similarly and would be a lovely summer aperitif, served quite chilled, or with crab cakes. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Niagara College Teaching Winery Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (40741)
This is a well-made Cab-Merlot from one of Niagara's best wineries. It delivers quite intense fruit (black and red berries and fruit) with nice complexity, all within a medium-plus body with a smooth texture. The tannins are sweet and fine, and this pairs very well with a grilled rack of lamb. (RP)

U.S.A.: red

**** drink now
Bogle Vineyards Merlot 2004
California $16.95 (701466)
Pleasant plum and vanilla aromas drift off the glass of this smooth and silky Merlot. Black currant and ripe black plum flavours abound on the palate while the finish adds on a layer of toast, sweet bramble berry and gorgeous spice. It's medium-bodied, provides a plush mouth feel and offers very good value. Good to go now with braised veal shanks. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cain Concept 2003
Napa Valley $57.95 (590299)
Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon (75%, with contributions from Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot), this Bordeaux blend is superbly structured and impressively complex. The flavours are all ripe dark fruit (cherry, plum, berries) with lashings of spice and the tannins are ripe and polished. All in all, a terrific red that will hold for eight to ten years. Drink it with stylish red meat dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Clay Station Petite Sirah 2004
Lodi $19.95 (025429)
Open up your horizons with this not-often-seen grape variety. This is a complex and chunky red with all sorts of funky aromas - leather, gamey notes and spicy cassis amongst them. It is medium to full-bodied, chock-full of fruit flavour - bramble berry and Bing cherry included. The finish is dry and layers on some leather and earthy notes. This cries out for a 3 hour decant and beef teriyaki. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Hawk Crest Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
California $18.95 (255455)
A well put together dry California Cab that is reasonably-priced. Look for cranberry and red currant flavours on a medium-bodied frame that offers good acidity and balancing ripe tannins. This will shine when poured with pasta and tomato-based sauces. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ridge Geyserville 2004
Sonoma County $47.95 (723072)
An iconic wine that collectors salivate over year after year, and with good reason. Spice, smoke and blueberry aromas drift off the glass of this medium to full-bodied gem. I found this fleshy and warm (14.9% alcohol) with the 18% Carignan and 7% Petite Sirah adding delightful peppery notes and structure. The finish is dry and flavourful. Good to go now, with a 3 hour decant or safely tuck away until 2012. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Waterstone Merlot 2004
Napa Valley $24.95 (025288)
Currant and spice notes waft from the glass and follow through to the flavours in this medium-textured red. It is clean and dry with Montmorency cherry and tart cranberry flavours providing the tang and flavour on the finish. Pour alongside pizza with a generous layer of tomato sauce or Swiss steak. (VH)

U.S.A.: white wine

****1/2 drink now
Clay Station Viognier 2005
Lodi $19.95 (25411)
A quite delicious Viognier that's mouth-filling and almost full bodied. Look for well-nuanced, sweet flavours of peach and apricot, with lovely spicy notes. It's a perfect match for spicy chicken or pork dishes. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay 2005
Napa Valley $28.95 (27292)
A quite rich Chardonnay that offers impressive complexity. It's dominated by flavours of tropical fruit, and you'll also find caramel, vanilla, coconut, a hint of oak and a nice seam of minerality. This is a stylish Chardonnay that will drink perfectly alongside rich chicken and pork dishes. (RP)

Argentina: red

**** drink now
Joffré E Hijas Grand Merlot 2003
Valle de Uco, Mendoza $15.95 (025098)
A crowd-pleaser that offers up coffee and cherry aromas then a gigantic mouthful of jammy, sweet bramble berry and cherry compote flavours right through to the lengthy, sweet finish. This is a warm and friendly wine that will be widely-accepted at your backyard barbie with the neighbourhood crowd. Pour alongside burgers or steak. (VH)

Chile: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle "Cuvée Alexandre" Atalayas Vineyard Chardonnay 2005
Casablanca Valley $33.95 (947937)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This has character, depth and charm. Alluring aromas of toasty oak and honey pot form the nose of this medium to full-bodied beauty. There are layers of tropical fruit and citrus flavours on a lovely-textured frame. The spicy and lengthy finish is astounding. Save for the upcoming holiday season and serve with the bird alongside traditional fixings. (VH)

**** drink now
Cono Sur Visión 'Block: Loma Roja' Sauvignon Blanc 2005
D.O. Casablanca Valley $14.95 (684522)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Look to Chile's Casablanca Valley for marvellous Sauvignon Blancs, like this single vineyard example from the Loma Roja Vineyard. The cooling winds off the Pacific give the grapes a good level of acidity and the relatively late harvest in the region allows them to develop rich flavours. The winning combination is in this screwcap-sealed bottle, which delivers crisp raciness with concentrated grassy, grapefruit and lemon-lime flavours. It's finely balanced and great value. Pair it with grilled seafood or dense white fish with a squeeze of lemon. (RP)

Chile: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
D.O. Colchagua Valley $34.95 (947929)
Truly exotic with attractive aromas of creosote, bitters and leather, it offers richness on the palate with gorgeous flavours of toasted nuts, leather and gobs of concentrated black currant and cherry. It's full-bodied with loads of structure from perceptible, but acceptable, tannin and a great balancing tang. The finish is full of flavour and promise of life until 2012. (VH)

**** drink now
Concha Y Toro 'Marques De Casa Concha' 2004
D.O. Peumo $19.95 (019042)
There is never a misstep from this respected producer. A gorgeous Syrah that opens with toasty, peppery and spicy plum aromas before bursting on the palate with smooth and silky flavours of rich, sweet cherry and bramble berry fruit. It is deftly balanced and rich it texture and flavour right through to the lengthy finish. A wonderful price for a classy wine. (VH)

**** drink now
Cono Sur Southern Cone Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005
Maipo $13.95 (16113)
At this price, you can't afford not to grab an armful. It's the sort of food-friendly Cabernet Sauvignon you'll want for barbecued red meats. Not an overwhelming Cab in terms of fruit, weight, tannins or alcohol, it delivers medium body, soft tannins, and complex red fruit and berries with accents of spice. It's great with grilled lamb. (RP)

Australia: white

**** drink or cellar
Katnook Estate Chardonnay 2004
Coonawarra, South Australia $24.95 (734830)
Smoke and toasty aromatics pour from the glass of this medium-bodied, beautifully-textured white. Tropical fruit, underpinned by leesy, toasty notes, form the flavour profile and the overall effect is pleasing; a silky smooth wine with ripe fruit and deft balance. What's not to like? Give this a go with smoked turkey breast. (VH)

Australia: red

****1/2 cellar
Barossa Valley Estate "E&E Black Pepper" Shiraz 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia $99.95 (731620)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a perennial favourite, and even though it's not inexpensive, it's well worth trying if you can stretch to it. The style is consistent within vintage variations: richly complex with seams of dark fruit and berries and pockets of spice and black pepper. The texture captures a sort of vibrancy that lifts the concentrated flavours and makes this a superb food wine. Put it away for three or four years, then drink it over the next ten. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
d'Arenberg The Custodian Grenache 2004
McLaren Vale $20.95 (713040)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Montmorency cherry and red currant on the nose, the palate is gloriously rich with gobs of clean refreshing red berry fruit. It is round, warm (14.5% alcohol) and offers impeccable balance and structure. It finishes off in a blaze of lingering cassis, licorice and spice box flavours. The price to quality ratio is skewed heavily in your favour. Stock up, Mate. (VH)

***** two glasses drink or cellar
Jim Barry 'The Lodge Hill' Shiraz 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (998476)
We both loved this. Cool evenings in the Clare provide the backbone to this red, keeping it far from jammy. Tar and black licorice aromas pour from this gutsy beauty. Sweet and juicy red berry fruit flavours are served up by the ladle-full in this medium-bodied beauty that is in perfect balance with its perceptible tannin, judicious use of oak and lovely dollop of tang. The gorgeous finish portends another five years of life and the perfect foil to grilled, medium-rare, beefsteak. The price to quality ratio is well in your favour. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Peter Lehmann Mentor 2001
Barossa, South Australia $40.95 (724336)
Very limited quantities will see this fly off shelves. Look for leafy aromas and hints of leather and cherry off the beguiling nose of this predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon (63%) red blend. The flavour profile includes licorice, black currant and plum while the medium-textured frame is enhanced by ripe tannin, a moderating spoonful of tang and a glorious finish that layers on Christmas cake spice. Smooth and silky, pour this with osso bucco or beef daube. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
McLaren Vale $22.95 (730374)
A bold, hefty, full-bodied Cab that calls for... no, demands... a big red meat dish, preferably game. It's all dark fruit and blackberries, with accents of cedar, vanilla and spice, all held in check right now by a veneer of firm, upright tannins. Drink it now and for the next six or seven years. (RP)
New Zealand: red

**** drink now
Governors Bay Pinot Noir 2004
South Island $18.95 (656405)
Smoke, spice and currant aromas waft from this classy number that is light to medium-bodied red, clean and refreshing. Delicious tangy fruit - cranberry and red currant - is well supported by balancing acidity, making this a candidate for summer sipping, slightly chilled, or matched to smoked duck breast over a mess of greens and mango chutney drizzle. Pinot-lovers will want to give this a go. (VH)

Italy: white

***1/2 drink now
San Pietro Pinot Grigio 2005
DOC Alto Adige $14.95 (030098)
Pineapple and honeycomb form the nose of the light-bodied (light-bodied is a delightful warm weather style) that will give great relief to those hot summer days that are fast approaching. The flavours include peach and generous spoonfuls of citrussy zest that make it a candidate for quaffing or to match to light seafood and chicken crudités. (VH)

Italy: red

**** drink or cellar
Rocca di Castagnoli Capraia Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
DOCG Chianti Classico $31.95 (23374)
A very attractive Chianti Classico that delivers solid fruit from front to back. It's notable for the excellent balance, which brings forward a food-friendly seam of acidity and good, sweet tannins. Drink this now and over the next six-seven years, preferably with a grilled veal chop in a tomato-based sauce. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Rocca di Montemassi Le Focaie Sangiovese 2004
IGT Maremma Toscana $17.95 (31005)
A quite typical Sangiovese, with bright fruit flavours (cherry, red plum, berries) and food-oriented balance. It's dry and medium bodied with easy-going tannins, and it pairs very well with tomato-based meat dishes. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Tommasi Vigneto Le Prunée Merlot 2004
IGT delle Venezie $15.95 (24505)
This is a lovely Merlot that's so well priced you might just want to buy a few bottles. It delivers a juicy texture and flavours of red plum and berries, and it's a natural for meat-based pasta dishes or for gourmet pizza. (RP)

Spain: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Muga Reserva 2003
DOCa Rioja 375 mL $12.95 (976928); 750 mL $23.95 (177345)
A perennial favourite from a respected producer. It begins with a muted nose of cherry and some leathery tones then provides flavours of blueberry, strawberry and red currants, all wrapped up in considerable tang. The tannins are still a bit grainy and the overall impression is of a dry wine that may benefit from two more years in the bottle. (VH)

Cheers!

Rod and Vic 

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar