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April 14th, 2007 Vintages Release

This release starts with wines to match specific categories of food, like beef, fish and vegetarian. And look for a wine designed for sushi in the Spanish white section.

Vic is still away in Australia, but I've started extradition proceedings, and in all likelihood he'll be contributing reviews regularly from the May newsletter on. Meanwhile, he has sent some reviews for this newsletter.

Wines to match beef

****1/2 drink now
Rosenblum "Appellation Series" Zinfandel 2005
North Coast, California $30.95 (031773)
Grown in cooler sites, this Zinfandel is more restrained than many. It packs all the flavour punch you come to expect from the variety, and it delivers layers of sweet fruit and berries, but it escapes the jam-trap and has a nice level of acidity and good structure. Serve it with beef, I suppose. (RP)

Wine to match fish

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Laroche Chablis 2005
AOC Chablis $22.95 (017657)
This is a classic Chablis from one of the region's best-known producers. It's a great balance of crisp acidity and complex ripe fruit flavours such as apple, pear and grapefruit, along with a fine seam of minerality. Pair it with grilled whitefish and a squeeze of lemon. (RP)

Wine to match pork

****1/2 drink or cellar
Studert-Prüm Riesling-Kabinett 2005
QmP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $19.95 (970129)
This is a quite delicious off-dry Riesling with seductively spicy flavours of peach and apricot. Combine those with mineral notes and rich acidity, and you have a great partner for spicy pork dishes, especially if they have an Asian influence. (RP)

Wine for pasta

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Reserve Baco Noir 2004
VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) From its lifted tarry nose to its lengthy and luxurious fruit forward finish, this is a superb expression of terroir and grape. An absolute must for imbibers and collectors alike. Aromas and flavours of coffee, jammy black currant, and spiced plum meld with good grip (ripe, but firm tannin), a backbone of verve and concentrated intensity. Varietal management - meticulous leaf thinning, green harvest, 20+ year old vines, small yield (50 hL/ha) plus winemaker Ron Giesbrecht's experience and unmatched expertise coalesce in this brilliant wine. Drink now (after a 4-hour decant) to 2015. (VH)

Wine for vegetarian dishes

**** drink now
d'Arenberg "The Dry Dam" Riesling
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (942953)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Mineral and lime sherbet aromas waft off the glass of this medium-bodied crisp white. Fruit is hand-picked, gently basket-pressed and only the free run juice is used. Wonderfully zippy and zesty on the palate, expect citrus and green apple fruit, it also offers surprisingly smooth, almost creamy, texture. Good to go now and for the next 12 months alongside smoked salmon, a slice of red onion and caper berries. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Planeta "La Segreta" Bianco 2005
IGT Sicily $16.95 (581546)
A blend of Greciano, Chardonnay, Viognier and Fiano, this delivers a quite plump, almost fat-textured mouthful of rich fruit. Look for peach, apricot, ripe pear and tropical notes. The catalogue suggests pairing with vegetarian dishes using cream and cheese, and I would add a good dose of seasoning to that. (RP)

U.S.A.: Red wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
La Crema Pinot Noir 2005
Sonoma Coast $31.95 (719435)
La Crema's Pinot Noir is consistently well made and consistently one of my favourite California Pinots. The 2005 continues the tradition, with concentrated flavours of black cherry and berries, lively spiciness, and food-friendly balance. It's dry and medium bodied, with good structure and ripe tannins. Pair it with a well-seasoned, grilled rack of lamb. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Napa Valley $49.95 (708842)
This is a very well-made Cab that shows the 2003 vintage is no slouch, even though it falls in the shadow of the highly-rated 2001 and 2002. There's terrific fruit concentration and complexity here, all wrapped in a dry, medium-plus weight texture and firm tannins. I would hold this another couple of years, then drink it over the next five. (RP)

Argentina: Red wine

****1/2 cellar
Clos de la Siete 2005
Mendoza $24.95 (622571)
A big, luscious, mainly Bordeaux blend that's made in an assertive New World style. Look for black fruit and berries with highlights of licorice, coffee and vanilla. It's well structured, dry, and medium-full bodied. The tannins are still pretty firm and this is best held for two or three years. Then serve it with grilled lamb chops or with rich red meat dishes. (RP)

Australia: Red wine

**** drink now
Jim Barry "Silly Mid On" Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2006
Clare Valley/Adelaide Hills $24.95 (024042)
The Sauvignon Blanc contributes slightly sweaty, pungent fruit to this blend, along with a hefty dose of acidity, while the Semillon delivers some attractive citrus complexity and a little depth to the texture. It's a successful blend in general and this is a very nice expression of it, perfect for summer sipping or pairing with spicy grilled seafood. (RP)

New Zealand: Red wine

**** drink or cellar
Spy Valley Merlot 2004
Marlborough $27.95 (025320)
This bridges Old and New World styles nicely, delivering concentrated and well-focused complex fruit (plum and dark berries) lifted by a nice line of acidity. It's well flavoured and restrained in the best Pinot tradition, and it makes an excellent partner to grilled chicken with a mushroom risotto. (RP)

South Africa: White wine

****1/2 drink now
Delheim Rhine Riesling 2004
WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $15.95 (018697)
From one of South Africa's consistent quality producers, this is a really delicious Riesling that delivers attractive fruit (apple, pear, grapefruit) and crisp lime acidity. Medium-bodied and dry, it's a great match for slightly spicy seafood dishes. (RP)

South Africa: Red wine

**** drink or cellar
Hidden Valley Shiraz 2004
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (015438)
Look to South Africa for some really delicious Shirazes. This one is a substantial, juicy-textured Shiraz that's nicely complex (black plum, cherry, berries, smoke, tar, spice), with a smooth texture and all the acidity you need to pair it successfully with flavoursome red meat dishes. (RP)

Austria: White wine

**** drink now
Lenz Moser Prestige Pinot Gris Trocken 2005
Burgenland $12.95 (672980)
Try this as an aperitif before dinner or pair it with white fish in a creamy sauce. It's a light-medium weight Pinot Gris with well-defined flavours (white peach, apricot pit) and a crisp texture. It's a somewhat off-beat style and it's very successful, as well as very good value. (RP)

France: White wine

****1/2 drink now
Cave de Viré Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes 2004
AOC Viré-Clessé $19.95 (017715)
All the wines I've tasted from this appellation have been delicious and well made, with fine fruit flavours, excellent acid balance, and attractive, clean texture. There's just a little age on the fruit here: it's all apricot and peach, with hints of dried apricot and some honey notes in the aromas and flavours. The acidity is bright and refreshing and calls out for food, while the characteristic line of minerality is holding firm and true. Pair it with poultry in a rich cream sauce. Note in the "Upstream" section below that the 2005 vintage is coming later this year. (RP)

France: Red wine

****1/2 drink now
Hecht & Bannier Minervois 2003
AOC Minervois $19.95 (017764)
Another big, juicy red from grapes that matured rapidly in the oven-like temperatures of the summer of 2003. This one, from southwest France, is dense and dry, chock full of black fruit accented with chocolate, coffee and licorice notes. The tannins are still quite firm, but you should drink this in the next two years-with well-seasoned red meat dishes. (RP)

Italy: Red wine

**** drink now
Terra d'Aligi Sangiovese 2004
IGT Terre di Chieti $14.95 (028084)
Here's a very well-priced Sangiovese that delivers great fruit (dark cherry, red plum) with notes of peppery spice, all complemented by bright acidity. Medium-bodied and dry, it works well with spicy pasta and pizza. Grab a few bottles of this for future reference. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Dessilani Ghemme 2001
DOCG Ghemme $39.95 (029637)
Mainly Nebbiolo, this is a wine to tuck away for a couple of years, then drink over the following six. It's a stylish red with complex dark fruit (plum to the fore, with spice and mocha), sweet, firm tannin, and excellent balance. When it's ready, pour it next to a plate of Osso Bucco. (RP)

Portugal: Red wine

**** drink or cellar
Altano 2004
DOC Douro $11.95 (579862)
This is great value: a well-made, big, juicy, dry red that goes really well with well-flavoured meat and vegetable dishes. It's a blend of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca and it shows its pedigree well. If you're looking for a wine to kick-start the barbecue season, you couldn't go wrong with a few bottles of this. (RP)

Spain: White wine

**** drink now
Oroyã 2005
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla $13.95 (025775)
The label proclaims this as a wine for sushi, and even though I haven't yet tried it with sushi (although I will have, by the time it's released), I can imagine the pairing will be just peachy. This has huge aromatics, dominated by Muscat and flowers, and even though it's less intense on the palate, it has great flavour, good depth, a somewhat fat texture, and a lovely fruity finish. (RP)

Spain: Red wine

**** drink now
1707 Selección de Barricas 2003
DO Almansa $14.95 (026690)
Here's another wine you might stock up on, in anticipation of the barbecue season. It's a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (45%) and Syrah (5%) that delivers intense flavours of dark fruit with notes of spice, coffee and chocolate. The withering 2003 growing season shows through here, but there's good balance and the package is just excellent value. (RP)

Upstream on Winecurrent

Look for these wines in forthcoming Vintages releases

Vintages Release May 12, 2007

***** drink now
Domain Day Pinot Noir 2004
Mount Crawford, South Australia $23.95 (24067)
The label declares that this is "one serious pinot noir," and I agree in spades. Decidedly new world and totally delicious, this delivers fine fruit (black cherry with really lovely spice and herbal notes) with a wonderful spine of acidity for exquisite balance. It's medium-plus in weight with sweet tannins and it's ready for drinking now with grilled lamb chops. Or you can hang on to it another two-three years. Just make sure you snag some. (RP)

Rod recently visited Burgundy and among the wines he tasted at various domaines were these, which are coming to Vintages later in 2007.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bernard Lefaix Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet Réserve 2004
AOC Chablis Premier Cru
Made from Old Vines, this delivers intense fruit (for a Chablis) and you'll find peach, ripe pear and apple, together with white grapefruit in the brisk acidity. Add a fine seam of minerality and you have a terrific wine that will pair with spicy seafood or with fish or white meat with a rich buttery or creamy sauce. (RP)

**** drink now
Cave de Viré Crémant de Bourgogne Brut
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne
Made in the traditional (aka Champagne and classic) method, this sparkling wine is 100% Chardonnay. Most bottles spend about two years before being disgorged, and this contributes to the yeasty aromas. Beyond that, look for apples, pears and citrus in the flavours, with a pleasant mousse and decent finish. It's more for food than for sipping, so pair it with your appetizer of shrimps sautéed in oil and garlic and topped with grated lemon zest. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cave de Viré Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes 2005
AOC Viré-Clessé
From one of Burgundy's newest appellations (as if they needed more) this has real depth of fruit (peach, apricot and pear) with lovely mineral notes and a brilliant dose of bright citrus acidity. It's fresh and young and was a great partner to frogs' legs sautéed in butter and garlic. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Antonin Rodet Château de Rully 2004
AOC Rully
Barrel-fermented and aged in new and older oak, this shows a solid fruit profile (peach, pear) throughout with attractive herbal and yeasty notes. The acid backbone is taut and clean and the balance is impeccable. Drink it now and over the next five years with roasted chicken. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jacques Prieur "Clos de Mazeray" Meursault 2004
AOC Meursault
From a small (3 hectare) walled vineyard just south of Meursault, this shows classic character for the appellation. The texture is rich and almost creamy, with solid fruit flavours (peach in the foreground) and a hint of smokiness. For all the softness, the acidity is clean and correct, and there's a lovely seam of minerality. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Jacques Prieur "Les Combottes" Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2004
AOC Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru
This is a stunning wine. Winemaker Nadine Gublin explains that Les Combottes lies in a protected location that gets very warm, and that they have to watch that the grapes don't get overripe: they can reach 15% potential alcohol. This mere 13% wonder delivers rich, concentrated peach and apricot flavours with hints of tropical fruit. It has a plush, generous texture, good minerality, and exquisite acidity. Overall, it's vivacious and refreshing. Little wonder it's Jacques Prieur's signature white. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jacques Prieur "Greves" Beaune Premier Cru 2005
AOC Beaune Premier Cru
This is an intensely-flavoured Pinot Noir that delivers rich dark cherry with notes of spice and earthiness. One third is aged in new barrels, enhancing its texture and adding a hint of toast. The tannins are firm and manageable now, but more so in two or three years. Pair it with grilled lamb. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Louis Jadot Morgon "Château des Lumières" 2003
AOC Morgon
This is not your grandfather's Beaujolais. Although actually it might be, given the way Beaujolais changed in the twentieth century. Thanks in part to the torrid 2003 vintage, this delivers rich, pungent, almost-but-not-quite jammy fruit (dark cherry, plum) with a hint of caramel. It's dry with firm tannins and well balanced, and has the heft to handle a steak. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent "Château des Jacques" 2004
AOC Moulin-à-Vent
This is a very well-paced and quite elegant Moulin-à-Vent that delivers good cherry fruit with notes of spice and mint. It's medium-weight, dry with fine tannins, and makes a good partner for a grilled veal chop with a red-wine reduction. (RP)

**** drink now
Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir "Couvent de Jacobins" 2005
AOC Bourgogne
Jadot export manager Nicolas Dewe suggests this is the kind of Pinot Noir that's so classic you could use it to demonstrate the variety in sommelier school. He's right. This has all the complex cherry fruit flavours you expect of Pinot. It's medium bodied and well structured with clean, fine tannins and it's versatile with food. Try it with salmon, tuna, chicken or lamb. (RP)

Henschke feature: Vintages Release, 29 September 2007

Vic tasted these wines at Henschke.

**** drink now
Henschke 'Tillys Vineyard' 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.95 (709212)
This opens with a glorious and lifted nose of white flowers in an exotic spice box. On the palate look for full, rich fruit flavours of nectarine, peaches and citrus complemented by layered hints of honeycomb and herbaceous, grassy undertones. This complex blend - 55% Semillon, 25% Chardonnay and 20% Sauvignon Blanc - offers a refreshingly clean and lingering finish. The price to quality balance is skewed heavily in your favour. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Henschke Lenswood Croft Chardonnay 2005
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $55. 30 (709212)
A solid wine from a great vintage that opens with a layered, beguiling nose of vanilla, butterscotch and cashews. Give the new French oak two years to integrate, but the gorgeous rich flavours of spiced apple and pear and the full texture will carry it nicely if you can't wait. The cooler Adelaide Hills region asserts itself in the tangy and zesty citrus finish. Under Stelvin screw cap, assuring integrity now and in your cellar. Drink 2009 to 2012. (VH)

***** cellar
Henschke Lenswood 'Abbotts Prayer' 2003
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $88.30 (720508)
Elegant and rich without being overpowering or jammy; licorice and dark chocolate aromas form the segue to this glorious Merlot. The flavours are dense and rich - cassis, currant and vanilla - and for now sturdily wrapped in a noticeable tannin structure. Lots of oomph and succulent flavours - 14 months in oak, 14.9% alcohol and miniscule yields in a scorcher of a dry year - coalesce into a thing of beauty. It will reward short term cellaring. Drink 2009 to 2014, with great confidence. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henschke 'Mount Edelstone' 2003
Eden Valley, South Australia $108.75 (718601)
Aromas of red licorice and cherry open this full-bodied red that drenches the palate with sweet brambleberry and currant flavours. This single vineyard fruit is dry-farmed from low yield, 90 year old gnarled Shiraz vines. The round and ripe and tannins complement the lengthy and luxurious finish that adds on a glorious layer of creosote and spice. No need for a food match - a meal in itself. Drink now, after a three-hour decant, to 2012. (VH)

**** cellar
Henschke 'Hill of Grace' 2001
Eden Valley, South Australia $515. 95 (709212)
From a pre-phylloxera vineyard first planted almost 150 years ago, this wine is an Australian icon. An early harvest in a very hot summer produced this light to medium-bodied Shiraz. Cherry and blueberry aromas waft from the glass while the flavours are in the cassis and Bing cherry zones. The medium-length finish offers grainy tannins and additional red berry fruit flavours. This is definitely on the light and beautifully-balanced side of the flavour / texture spectrum. Drink 2009 to 2014. (VH)

New on the LCBO General List

Look for these new additions or vintages on the LCBO General List

Australia

***1/2 drink now
Long Flat Chardonnay 2005
South Eastern Australia $12.95/1-litre Tetra Pak (24794)
From the "top drop" people, a fairly intensely-flavoured Chardonnay that delivers a glass of ripe peaches and tropical fruit with touches of soft spice. The texture is smooth and there's a crispness that makes this a great partner to mid-week pork and chicken dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Mad Fish Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon 2006
Western Australia $15.15 (588863)
Gooseberry, nettles and floral notes waft from this zesty spring or summer quaffer. It is a splendid 58:42 blend of two grapes that work together in Oz as well as they do in Bordeaux, and possibly better. Expect a focused attack of citrus and mineral flavours with a hint of honeycomb on the finish that rounds this into the perfect foil to seared scallops, grilled and crumbled chèvre over mixed greens plus pan-seared salmon or trout. (VH)

**** drink now
McWilliam's "Hanwood Estate" Chardonnay 2004
South Eastern Australia $13.15 (557934)
This is a luscious and fruity Chardonnay that's mouth-filling and goes well with grilled pork tenderloin or salmon. The fruit (peach, pear, tropical fruit) is solid from start to finish and there's a nice seam of acidity to keep it fresh and lively. (RP)

Canada: Ontario

**** drink now
Cave Spring Cabernet-Merlot 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (407270)
Two-thirds of more than 300 Ottawa Citizen readers who tasted and rated this wine awarded it either 3.5 or 4 stars. I'm in the 4-star crowd, because I find this a very well-made blend (of Cabernet Franc and Merlot) that's great with a wide range of food. It's medium bodied with very attractive-even pretty-fruit and minty-spicy notes. It's a versatile food wine: try it with roast chicken or with pasta with a meat and tomato-based sauce. (RP)

New in Ontario wineries

**** drink or cellar
Château des Charmes Merlot 2005
VQA St. Davids Bench $25.00
This is a very attractive cool-climate Merlot that delivers some really attractive ripe plum and red berry flavours with notes of spice, chocolate and licorice. It's bone dry and medium bodied, with firm but manageable tannins, and you can confidently pair it with grilled lamb chops for a great partnership. Available from the winery at www.chateaudescharmes.com or from Château des Charmes retail stores. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château des Charmes Equuleus 2002
VQA St. Davids Bench $35.00
Not exactly new, but a reminder that this terrific wine from the excellent 2002 vintage is still available. It has lovely fruit, with impressive depth and complexity. It's drinking beautifully now and will do so for another five years. This is great value for wine of this quality. Available from the winery at www.chateaudescharmes.com or from Château des Charmes retail stores. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Coyote's Run Cabernet Franc 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.00
Those talented coyotes have produced a really lovely Cabernet Franc that shows great typicity. The fruit (red plum, berries and cherry) is bright and clean, and accented with spice, cedar and chocolate. The balance is poised and the tannins are fine and firm. A really nice drop, this, and a perfect partner to duck breast grilled medium-rare. Available from the winery or order from www.coyotesrunwinery.com. (RP)

**** drink now
Coyote's Run Meritage 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.00
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (54%), Cabernet Franc (23%) and Merlot (13%), this delivers bright, fresh flavours of red berries, plum and cherries, with hints of bell pepper, notes of spice and a finish that's all dark chocolate. It's medium bodied and dry with a smooth texture and fine tannins, and it pairs well with a grilled veal chop. Available from the winery or order from www.coyotesrunwinery.com. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Daniel Lenko Unoaked Chardonnay 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
A seriously delicious Chardonnay that should put paid to the Chardonnay-whiners. The fruit (peach, apricot pit, stewed pear, banana) is pure and clean, and the acidity is just right. Medium-bodied and dry, this is a marvelous pairing with chicken or pork in a rich, creamy sauce. Available at the winery or order from www.daniellenko.com. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Daniel Lenko Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95
Look for quite rich dark berry and fruit notes here (you'll find plum, cassis and blueberry), with a nice, subtle, undertone of bell pepper. It's dry and medium-plus bodied, with a very attractive, rich texture, and firm, quite sleek tannins. This will pair well with grilled red meat dishes. Try it with a pepper steak. Available at the winery or order from www.daniellenko.com. (RP)

New in Restaurants

**** drink now
Cockfighter's Ghost Chardonnay 2005
Hunter Valley, Australia $20.95
Patrick Auld's 3 decades of wine making experience and one of the best vintages seen in the Hunter coalesced to fashion this beautifully balanced drop; wisely sealed under screw cap to ensure freshness. Green apple and peach aromas form the beguiling nose. Look for clean tropical and pit fruit flavours that are subtly enhanced by the merest whisper of oak. The zesty finish begs for lemon veal or grilled fish under a squirt of lemon. Order, easily, by the case from the user-friendly site www.liffordwineagency.com. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Cockfighter's Ghost Shiraz 2003
McLaren Valley, Australia $24.50
A vintage wrought by extremes resulted in low-yields for wineries and a bonanza year for red wine-lovers. Red berry and black pepper aromas emanate from this well-balanced, medium-bodied red. The flavours are warm (14.5% alcohol) Montmorency cherry and dollops of tang that provide interest and keep it away from jammy. The lengthy luxurious finish portends 5 more years of optimum drinking. Pour with grilled rack of lamb. Order, easily, by the case from the user-friendly site www.liffordwineagency.com. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hope Estate Shiraz 2005
Hunter Valley, Australia $19.95
Non-grafted 11 year-old vines come of age in this drought-stricken vintage and provide this delectable red with a 'sense of place' - the mighty Hunter. Black pepper and sweet spiced plum aromas blast from the lifted nose of this impeccably balanced drop. Look for ripe and elegant black cherry and currant flavours that are supported by dusty tannins and a spoonful of tang. It finishes fruit-forward and food-friendly. Pour with rare grilled red meat. Share a case amongst friends after ordering from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Seven Hills Merlot 2002
Walla Walla, Washington $38.15
This is a classic and delicious New World Merlot, delivering precise and plentiful fruit in a generous but taut and stylish way. The texture is smooth but slightly edgy and the overall impression is of a polished wine that has really come into its own. This is an excellent choice to accompany red meat dishes. Buy from The Robert Groh Agency at www.robgroh.com. (RP)

Cheers!

Rod and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar