Winecurrent
August 28, 2021 Newsletter

Newsletter Highlights:

There are ten wines reviewed in this newsletter in the Wines of Argentina Special Feature with most of the wines offering a Limited Time Discount on the price from now to September 12, 2021.

  • 95 points and over – there is one wine in this newsletter that rang the 95 points and over bell – 2016 Plume Cabernet Sauvignon earned 95 points @ $39.95 found under Upstream in winecurrent
  • Over 60 – There are over 60 wine reviews in this newsletter.
  • Exceptional-value wine – There are 30 exceptional-value wines found throughout the newsletter and easily spotted by the Exceptional Value! icon checkmark in the August 21, 2021 Vintages Release and in the many categories following the release. Happy hunting!
  • Limited Time Offers –There are 16 wines that are reviewed in this newsletter and are also being discounted at the LCBO for up to a $5.00 rebate for each bottle purchased from August 16 to September 12. They are waiting to be discovered at the end of the newsletter.
  • Vic Picks – 2020 Featherstone Estate Winery Rosé earned 92 points @ $15.95 found under Ontario: Rosé Wine; 2019 Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Chardonnay earned 92 points @ $16.95 found under Australia: White Wine; 2020 Tiki Wine and Vineyards ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc earned 93 points @ $21.95 found under New Zealand: White Wine.

Vintages Release – September 4, 2021

Ontario: White Wine

• The following sustainably grown Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling was sourced from vines +20 years old with the largest portion being 35 years old at harvest for this wine that were shovel planted by the Speck Brothers in 1984. 3.5 tons/acre was taken from the well-known Weiss 21B clone vines. It was fermented in stainless steel tank at a controlled cool temperature of 15 – 17 ° C and a portion in large, neutral-oak foudres.

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!

Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling 2019

VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (557165) 9.8% alcohol

The price-quality balance in this perennial favourite tips wildly in your favour. Floral, petrol and mineral notes intertwine with lime zest and piquant spice aromas on the nose of this fabulous off-dry riesling. It races over the palate with nerve, verve and delicious tang-infused flavours—lime cordial and sharp minerality with notions of Granny Smith apple. This is medium bodied with creamy-smooth texture and a lingering, lip-smacking finish. Give it a go with scallop ceviche, prawn bisque or steamed mussels in a shallow bath of white wine and garlic. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2019 Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Chardonnay was sourced from the oldest, estate vines that were shovel planted and were 35 years old when grapes for this wine were harvested. Fruit was sustainably grown and certified by SWO. The wine was barrel fermented in French oak with a portion in 3000L foudres then barrel-matured for eight to ten months with a portion being new.


92drink or cellar Oh Canada!  

Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Chardonnay 2019

VQA Short Hills Bench $29.95 (616466) 12.8% alcohol

Nuances of toasted oak, green apple and notions of gunflint and pineapple aromas grace the nose of this lighter-styled, delightful chardonnay. It’s crisp and clean on the palate with flavours of Granny Smith apple, lemon acidity and hints of white grapefruit. This is light-medium bodied with good mouthfeel and a balanced, abbreviated finish and aftertaste. This is drinking well now, showcasing both structure and grace. It should improve with a bit more cellaring, possibly one to two years. Pour with roast chicken, turkey or crown roast of pork. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Hidden Bench Estate Winery Chardonnay is a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO retail stores.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!  

Hidden Bench Estate Winery Chardonnay

VQA Beamsville Bench $29.95 (68817) 13.0% alcohol

This is an outstanding expression of certified-organic Niagara chardonnay. Pronounced aromas of red apple, white grapefruit, butterscotch and vanilla segue to a creamy-textured wash of apple, tangy citrus and spice notes on the palate. Dry, medium bodied, it’s well-balanced with a long, mouth-watering, mineral-laden finish. Delicious on its own or enjoy with almond-crusted halibut fillets. (Lisa Isabel)

Ontario: Red Wines

• The following Hidden Bench Estate Winery ‘Organic’ Pinot Noir is a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO retail stores.

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!  

Hidden Bench Estate ‘Organic’ Pinot Noir

VQA Beamsville Bench $34.95 (274753) 12.7% alcohol

A subdued nose of red berry fruit and spice provide segue for a gorgeous mouthful of deftly balanced racy tang—pie cherry and red currant—and ripe juicy fruit—black plum and dark Bing cherry. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and a delectable lingering finish of mixed spice with wisps of toasty oak and soft tannin. Pour this organic gem with rack of lamb or crown roast of pork. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

• The following 2020 Featherstone Estate Winery Rosé is an inspired blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon/30% gamay noir/13% chardonnay/7% merlot. Fruit was harvested then optically sorted, crushed and destemmed. It was cold soaked on skins for 24 hours then pressed. Juice yield was 660 liters per tonne; transferred into stainless steel fermentation tanks with eight hours of juice floatation settling then racked off gross lees. It was fermented with commercial yeast strain Actiflore Rosé. Fermentation temperature was set for 15°C while fermented between Oct 20th and Nov 20th, 2020. The ferment was kept on its lees for four weeks, until mid-Dec 2020. This wine showcases the dazzling 2020 vintage in Ontario.

92drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!

Featherstone Estate Winery Rosé 2020

VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (117861) 13.5% alcohol

It’s a psychedelic pink in the glass and releases myriad aromas with the slightest swirl. There are aromas of floral notes and berry fruit decorated with citrus and pizzazz galore. It blankets the palate with a full-Monty surge of delicious fruit—strawberry and cherry cordial adorned with piquant spice and passionfruit pizzazz. It lingers on the lip-smacking mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This has deft balance and oodles of flavour. It’s divine sipped on its own and pours quite well with pan-seared or grilled seafood, chicken salad or chèvre crumbled over arugula dressed with olive oil. This is an exceptional-value wine. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

• The following 2019 Familia Schroeder ‘Alpataco’ Pinot Noir was sourced from estate-grown vineyards of 100% pinot noir that was hand harvested, and hand selected on vibratory tables before three days of maceration at low temperature with CO2, 30% of which were whole berries, then a final three days after fermentation. Fermentation was achieved with selected yeasts and enzymes in stainless steel tanks for 12 days followed by an induced by bacteria malo-lactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks. It was kept on its lees in stainless steel tanks with periodical stirring until finally stabilized and bottled. Here’s a youtube video about Familia Schroeder. All in Spanish, no captions or translation in English.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Familia Schroeder ‘Alpataco’ Pinot Noir 2019

Patagonia, Argentina $14.95 (19386) 13.5% alcohol

Dry strawberry, red cherry and potpourri aromas come to mind when sniffing this bargain, well-crafted pinot. It is bright and well balanced on the palate with flavours of red cherry, tangy raspberry, a touch of earthiness and a nice peppery and savoury delicious dry finish. This medium-bodied gem is perfect for salmon on the grill or tuna tartare. (Louise Boutin)

• Cafayate sits at 1700 meters a.s.l. and is arguably the best-known wine region, other than Mendoza, in Argentina. This high altitude is what defines the terroir of the region and makes it suitable for growing grapes despite its close proximity to the equator. Due to the high altitude, Cafayate receives intense sunlight which causes the skins of the grapes to thicken significantly as a protection against the sun. Though the days are bright and warm, true to a desert climate the nights can be very cold which causes the growing season to be extended and ultimately leads to a balanced structure. The soils in Cafayate consist mostly of free-draining chalky loam and in some areas can be quite rocky. The vines depend on snow melt from the Andes for much of its irrigation as there is very low rainfall/humidity. This wine matured for nine months in French and American oak barrels. Piatelli’s head winemaker explains where the winery is and their viticulture and viniculture practises in this youtube video.

93drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Piatelli Vineyards ‘High Altitude – Reserve’ Malbec 2019

Cafayate Valley, Salta, Argentina $16.95 (452029) 14.5% alcohol

Dark and opaque in the glass, this has earned its stripes as ‘Black Wine’. Sexy aromas of exotic spice and incense make way for notes of black cherry/berry, blueberry and hints of violets and pipe tobacco on the nose of this smooth and mellow, medium-full bodied, gorgeous, value-packed wine. Delicious flavours of black currant, dark bittersweet chocolate and blueberry envelop the palate. It’s nicely balanced with good tension provided by excellent acidity. It’s stylish and textured with deft balance and an underpinning of soft, ripe tannin. It lingers on the finish providing palate replays and a delightful lip-smacking aftertaste. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. Hearty kudos to Piatelli winemaker and vigneron, Valeria Antolin. She is one intelligent and accomplished person. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Chardonnay 2019

Clare Valley – Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (711556) 13.5% alcohol

Exotic spice and caramel aromas interlace with tropical fruit and crisp green apple on the nose of this medium-plus bodied, creamy-smooth work of art. A full-flavoured surge of pure ambrosia blankets the palate with tang-infused flavours of honeydew melon, ripe pear and lemon chiffon pie. The finish and aftertaste are lengthy and luxurious while replaying palate flavours along with plenty of pizzazz. The price-quality ratio tips wildly in your favour. Pick up a few and enjoy over the next few years alongside clay-baked chicken, pork stir-fry or white, three-cheese, flatbread pizza—Havarti/Gouda/chèvre—adorned with sliced mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

• The following 2018 Jim Barry ‘Single Vineyard – The Farm’ Cabernet Malbec is a blend of 91% cabernet sauvignon planted in 1997 and 9% malbec planted in 1998 both sourced from plots on the Eastern Ranges from their Lodge Hill estate vineyard. This wine is to pay homage to the foresight of the iconic, late, great Jim Barry. The Jim Barry team of today is still basking in the limelight of being named ‘2020 Winery of The Year’ by James Halliday’s Wine Companion. They are also one of the founding members of the über-exclusive Australia’s First Families of Wine; click on their name to learn why they gained an invitation and see the other nine members and use Jim Barry Wine plus those nine other names as a compass for family-owned and managed wineries making fine wines from Australia. This dazzling red wine scores well over its price.

93drink or cellar

Jim Barry ‘Single Vineyard – The Farm’ Cabernet - Malbec 2018

Clare Valley, Australia $29.95 (20881) 13.9% alcohol

Aromas of violets, earthy notes and ripe mulberry precede a structured mouthful of deep black cherry/berry flavours intertwined with mocha and wisps of earthy notes and sprigs of savoury herbs. It’s medium-full bodied with lots of mouthfeel and plenty of tang and acidity making for a dry finish and aftertaste. This is good to go now with at least another15 years of careful cellaring. Pour with grilled rack of lamb or a thick, premium cut of beef steak grilled medium-rare. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

• The following 2020 Tiki Wine and Vineyards ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from the Awaterre (a-wha-tee-ree) Valley and reflects the estate vineyard in the upper Awaterre Valley. Tiki Wine and Vineyards is owned and managed by a Maori family who take great care in sustainably managing their soil, vines and winemaking techniques. This vintage was very kind in terms of weather, with the Tiki winemaker making many trips to the vineyard tasting grapes, appraising by sight the fruit, skin and seeds to attain the perfect time for harvest. Pristine harvested fruit was gently pressed and the juice allowed to cold settle. A balanced amount of residual sugar was left to complement the acidity and to add palate weight and structure.

93drink or cellar

Tiki Wine and Vineyards ‘Estate’ Sauvignon Blanc 2020
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $21.95 (19767) 13.5% alcohol
Barely coloured in the glass, there are delicate hues of green and light yellow. Aromas of savoury herbs, gooseberry and flinty minerality are present on the nose. It envelops the palate with a surge of racy tang and tart acidity—lime, passionfruit and grapefruit—meeting up with peach and apricot by mid-palate with all persisting through the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste along with sharp mineral notes. Give this a go with freshly shucked oysters under a drop or two of hot sauce, a smidgeon of horseradish and a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

92drink or cellar

Château Siaurac 2010

AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol $44.95 (309831) 15.0% alcohol

Perfumed aromas of camphor, tar and berry fruit spring from this 80% merlot/20% cabernet sauvignon blend followed by a gusher of wildly delicious fruit—ripe, black briary berry and juicy, tangy, black Bing cherry robed in excellent moderating acidity, elegance and charm. It’s medium-plus bodied with generous mouthfeel and a bit of warmth from alcohol along with a nudge from the soft tannin underpinning on the aftertaste. On balance, fine wine at a terrific price. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

• The following 2020 Gérard Bertrand ‘Perles de Grenache’ Rosé is 100% sourced from the King of grapes in the southern Rhône—grenache. Harvest was decided through multiple organoleptic tastings and observations of seed and grape colour waiting for the optimum moment to begin harvest., The bottle also sports an elegant glass necklace of ‘pearls’ by an artisan French creator, Chantal Thomass.

90drink now Exceptional Value!
Gérard Bertrand ‘Perles de Grenache’ Rosé 2020
IGP Pays D’Oc, France $18.95 (556209) 13.0% alcohol
A few robust swirls coax delicate aromas of floral notes and berry fruit—strawberry and blueberry—on the nose of this pale-pink, crunchy rosé. A dry, tangy river of passionfruit, pomegranate and strawberry race over the palate with wild abandon and plenty of pizzazz. This is crisp and refreshing from twist top to last drop with excellent minerality joining on the finish and persevering through the aftertaste. Pour with a mixed sushi plate or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent.com

Vintages Release: September 4, 2021

• The following 2018 J. Bookwalter ‘Readers’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from premium grapes hand-picked as well as machine harvested that were grown on some of the estate’s best vineyards—76% from Columbia Valley from our older blocks of pristine fruit from Conner Lee and Dionysus Vineyards and 24% from Yakima Valley from our Elephant Mountain and Diamond Back Ridge Vineyards. The final blend for this wine is 76% cabernet sauvignon/16% syrah/8% malbec that was matured in 100% French oak with 10% new. 30% were puncheons and 70% smaller barriques.

93drink or cellar
J. Bookwalter ‘Readers’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Columbia Valley, Washington State $34.95 (13238) 14.8% alcohol
Exotic spice and incense mingle with dark cherry/berry aromas and notions of black licorice and sandalwood. It envelops the palate with rich, luscious flavours of boysenberry, mulberry and crème de cassis. This flaunts its balanced-on-a-pin, rich, luscious, aromas and flavours from twist top to last drop. It’s medium-plus bodied with excellent depth and a lengthy finish and aftertaste. Versatile at the table, give this a go with wild game or roast turkey. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: September 18, 2021

• The following 2017 Waterkloof ‘Circle of Life’ White Blend is sourced from three white grapes—69% chenin blanc/24% sauvignon blanc/7% sémillon that tell the story of Waterkloof Wines. This was a winery with great potential, and once taken over by Paul Boutinet it became a living breathing entity of organic and bio-dynamic methods. They do not fight nature, they harness it. They rely on organoleptic practises to first determine ripeness of the fruit flavours seed ripeness and state of the tannin rather than working solely off lab results. After a very long fermentation process—seven months—using autochthonous yeasts, the wine was produced as naturally as possible with no additions of acids or enzymes. There’s good value here.

93drink now
Waterkloof ‘Circle of Life’ White Blend 2017
WO Stellenbosch, South Africa $21.95 (284588) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of honeydew melon, piquant spice and citrussy notes provide segue to a medium bodied, well-textured mouthful of tang and acidity delivered through palate flavours of Key lime and Meyer lemon along with hints of green apple and mineral notes. This is well balanced with excellent purity of fruit, thirst-quenching acidity and plenty of pizzazz. The finish and aftertaste linger. Pour alongside gourmet sushi or pan-seared, line-caught, freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2019 Famille Abeille-Fabre ‘Réserve – Mont –Redon’ Blanc was sourced from the Southern Rhône valley with its varied soils covered with stones and pebbles or sand. The grapes were harvested at perfect maturity. Fruit—mainly viognier/grenache blanc/roussanne—is brought to the winery where it’s whole-cluster pressed then vinified at constant low temperature without allowing any malolactic fermentation. It matured on its lees for a few months then was bottled in February 2020.

91drink now Exceptional Value!
Famille Abeille-Fabre ‘Réserve – Mont –Redon’ Blanc 2019
AOC Côtes Du Rhône, France $17.95 (18602)
Alluring aromas of exotic incense, pit fruit and citrus abound on the nose. It dishes up a delightful tang-laden surge of palate flavours—lemon-lime, peel marmalade and blood orange that coalesce with a medium-bodied weight and texture, good acidity and persistent purity of fruit to, and through, the finish and aftertaste. Pour with all manner of pan-seared fish and seafood or olive-oiled arugula topped with crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2019 Ferraton Père et Fils ‘Samorëns’ is a blend of 85% grenache/10% syrah/5% cinsault sourced from the left bank of the Rhône with a mix of alluvial and gravely soil. Grapes are brought to the winery where they are destemmed and vinified in vats. Punch downs of the cap ensure good tannin extraction while maceration takes approximately 15 days.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Ferraton Père et Fils ‘Samorëns’ 2019
AOP Côtes du Rhône $16.95 (168708) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of dark berry fruit—black currant and mulberry--interweave with piquant peppery spice and savoury herbs on the nose of this exceptionally priced red blend—85% grenache noir/10% syrah/5% cinsault. It’s medium-bodied with good concentration of flavours on the palate, primarily red fruit—pie cherry, currant and pomegranate robed in tang and pizzazz on the palate and underpinned by ripe tannin through the lingering finish and aftertaste. Pour with lasagna, spaghetti Bolognese or red-sauce pizza with your favourite toppings. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Tenuta Presti e Pegni ‘Cusumano Noà’ is sourced from 40% nero d’avola/30% merlot/30% cabernet sauvignon. The average age of the vines is twenty years and the fruit is manually harvested in the first two weeks of September. Each grape varietal is aged on oak for 12 months with nero d’avola going into 30 hectolitre barrels and the merlot and cabernet sauvignon ageing in barriques. This winery is accredited sustainable by two separate bodies who are both approved by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture and Environment.

93drink or cellar
Tenuta Presti e Pegni ‘Cusumano Noà’ 2016
DOC Sicilia, Italy $31.95 (109512) 15.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of piquant peppery spice, red and black cherry/berry and wisps of medicinal notes. A rich, bold stream of flavours blanket the palate with black currant jam, red and black cherry and a local rendition of herbs and spices on scrubland. This showcases persistent purity of fruit, deft balance, creamy smooth on the palate and an extended finish and aftertaste. This is unique, stylish and distinguished. Pour with grilled red meat or roast turkey with stuffing, cranberry jelly and all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Plume Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of 87% cabernet sauvignon/5% malbec/4% petit verdot/3% merlot/1% cabernet franc sourced from the wineries two top vineyards. It was matured for 12 months in 25% French oak.

95drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Plume Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $39.95 (287367) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of bramble berry and crème de cassis interweave with piquant spice and hints of vanilla on the nose. It blankets the palate with a full-bodied, full-Monty surge of elegant fruit flavours with black currant jam and cherry clafoutie to the fore. This is stylish and bursting with flavour that’s interlaced with tang and acidity and a supple ripe tannin underpinning. The finish lingers and replays of palate flavours fill the aftertaste. Give this a go with grilled, medium-rare striploin along with grilled Portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine

• The following 2016 Dievole ‘Podere Brizio’ Rosso di Montalcino is from vineyards located in the southwest of Montalcino at an altitude of 330-350 meters above sea level facing the sea and the Maremma. This is Montalcino’s hottest area. Here the soil consists of sandstone and rocky marl which allows the production of well-structured, mineral wines. Rosso di Montalcino is traditionally made with 100% sangiovese with a spontaneous fermentation using native yeast. The wine is aged in 54 HL untoasted French oak barrel for 12 months and refined in bottle for 3 months minimum before release.

90drink or cellar
Dievole ‘Podere Brizio’ Rosso di Montalcino 2016
DOC Rosso di Montalcino, Italy $24.95 (17858) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of savoury herbs, wet-stone minerality and red cherry/berry fruit precede a racy, nerve and verve flow over the palate decorated with a linear line of racy acidity expressed as passionfruit and pie cherry galore. It broadens out mid-palate with juicy cranberry and blueberry flavours. It’s lightly-hued in the glass and crisp and refreshing on the palate. Give this a go with red-sauce pizza adorned with pepperoni and mushrooms or prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2019 Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Padré’ Cabernet-Merlot is sustainably grown and sourced from a cabernet franc/cabernet sauvignon/merlot blend that is named in honour of the Speck brothers’ father who was a Padré before starting his winery with his three sons. The wine has been matured for a period of 16 months in 60% French and 40% American oak barrels with a mixture of new and pre-loved oak.

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!   

Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Padré’ Cabernet-Merlot 2019

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (18667) 13.0% alcohol

Heavenly aromas rise from the glass—red and black cherry/berry fruit, dark plum and grilled savoury herbs. It’s sourced from the holy trinity of the Bordeaux blend—cabernet franc/cabernet sauvignon/merlot. Flavours of black bramble berry and juicy Bing cherry are joined on the mid-palate with lively tang and pizzazz. It’s medium-plus bodied with good balance and excellent mouthfeel and lingering finish; it’s so much more than the psalm of its parts. Pick up a case or so and rejoice over the next year and even longer and pour with roast turkey and all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: October 2, 2021

• The following 2019 Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir was hand harvested, and sustainably grown and certified by SWO. After being gently de-stemmed and mechanically sorted, grapes were then carefully moved by gravity. Grapes are de-seeded then seeds added back judiciously to control the tannin structure of the wine. Fruit was fermented in stainless steel using pulse-air with hand punch downs to gently manage the cap. The price-quality balance tips in your favour.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!

Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2019

VQA Short Hills Bench $24.95 (268391) 13.0% alcohol

Gamy notes mingle with aromas of barnyard, piquant spice and savoury herbs on the nose. A stream of red cherry and black currant flavours envelop the palate adorned with plenty of tang-infused passionfruit and hints of soft, ripe manageable tannin. It’s medium bodied with pleasant mouthfeel, good balance and plenty to like. Give this a try with smoked duck breasts or roast turkey. It’s very good value and very enjoyable drinking now; as it will continue to be over the next three or four years. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

• The following 2020 Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Goat Lady’ Chardonnay was sustainably grown in the VQA geographical-delineated region of Niagara Peninsula. It’s 100% Chardonnay fermented and aged in American oak for 7 months and underwent partial malolactic fermentation. This wine showcases the dazzling VQA Ontario 2020 vintage. In the property adjacent to where the Speck brothers lived as children, a lady named Marion kept goats. She also put out warm bowls of goat milk for the boys’ pet dog, Boswell. It turned out Boswell was a quick study and soon moved in with Marion.

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!

Speck Brothers ‘Family Tree – The Goat Lady’ Chardonnay 2020

VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (16792) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit, nectarines and apricot dominate the nose. It blankets the palate with excellent mouthfeel, and a torrent of flavours with caramel, apple-pie spice and tangy acidity and pizzazz expressed as lemon pie filling all to the fore. This is smooth and mellow with satin-smooth texture and lengthy, deftly balanced finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside roast chicken or turkey. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

• Order the following wine by the bottle(s) or case(s) for daily delivery to home, office or restaurant online from this link to Henry of Pelham – There is free delivery on 12 or more bottles in Ontario. Select ‘12 Bottles+’ at check out and allow up to 10 days for delivery or, order online then pick up bottle(s) or case(s) from the winery at 1469 Pelham Rd, St. Catharines ON. Here’s a map.

• The following sustainably grown 2020 Henry of Pelham ‘Estate – Old Vines’ Baco Noir was sourced from low-yielding vines—3.5 tons/acre—that were +20 years old with the largest portion being 36 years old—when harvested for this wine—shovel planted by the Speck brothers in 1984. The wine was matured in a combination of new and 1-2 year old American barriques then partially finished in 5000L oak foudres for a combined 12 months. This wine showcases one of the winery’s most popular grape varieties both domestically and internationally, as well as the fabulous 2020 VQA Ontario vintage.

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!

Henry of Pelham ‘Estate – Old Vines’ Baco Noir 2020

VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of gamey notes and grilled savoury herbs mingle with black currant and dark plum. It’s absolutely delicious on the palate with juicy black cherry and black plum compote nicely juxtaposed to tangy acidity, soft ripe tannin and oodles of pizzazz throughout. The dazzling VQA 2020 vintage shines brightly in this Baco. Pick up a few while you still can. Serve with rack of lamb or grilled back ribs mopped with sweet and spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

• For daily home, office or restaurant delivery for the following two wines are sold at the winery only, order online from this link Malivoire Wine Company with FREE shipping on orders of $99 or more, or $20 credited next business day towards delivery outside Ontario and Québec. Phone 905-563-9253 Monday to Friday 10 am - 5 pm on weekdays and noon to 5 pm Saturday and Sunday for information and for locals to access curbside pickup instructions. Their retail shop is now open - 10 am - 5 pm on weekdays, and noon to 5 pm on Saturday and Sunday. There are guidelines due to COVID-19 that change often, best to phone or email first (the website has a space to type and is linked to their email).

• The following 2019 ‘Mottiar Vineyard’ Chardonnay was sourced from hand-harvested grapes at the Mottiar Vineyard on October 5, 2019 when sugar in the unfermented grapes averaged 21.3 ° Brix. Wild yeast was used to ferment 75% of the must while cultured yeast fermented the other 25%. After primary fermentation and partial malolactic conversion in older French oak puncheons, the wine remains in barrel for nine months on its lees until bottled July, 2020.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Malivoire Wine ‘Mottiar Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2019
VQA Beamsville Bench $34.95 12.5% alcohol
Lightly yellow hued in the glass, aromas of spice interwoven with orchard fruit—peach and pear—along with lemon-lime notes waft delicately from the wine. The palate’s treated to a racy, lip-smacking surge of blood orange and peel marmalade adorned with lime-drizzled pear and minerality. It’s medium bodied with good texture and mouthfeel, good balance and persistent purity of fruit through the palate replays on the long finish and aftertaste. Pour with all manner of chicken, pork and veal or freshwater fish or mussels steamed in cream, leeks and white wine. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2020 Malivoire Wine ‘Wismer-Foxcroft Vineyard’ Gamay was sourced from 100% Gamay from the Foxcroft Vineyard, meticulously farmed by the Wismer family.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Malivoire Wine ‘Wismer-Foxcroft Vineyard’ Gamay 2020
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $27.95 13.0% alcohol
Light ruby in the glass, aromas of dark cherry and blueberry mingle with good acidity, deft balance, and plenty of structure and a supple tannin underpinning. Maturing palate flavours reach out using pure ambrosia for bait—black currant and ripe juicy cherry interlace with dark bittersweet chocolate and plenty of tang and pizzazz. It finishes on an up note with ripe black currant and dark bittersweet chocolate both making an appearance on the finish and aftertaste. What’s not to like? Place in the frig for 20 minutes then pour with your favourite barbecue treat. (Vic Harradine)

• Purchase the following ten wines online by the case, for home, restaurant or office delivery from Meldville Wines, phone 905-563-6500 or email winemaker/owner Derek Barnett This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. If in the area, make an appointment and drop by Legends Estates Winery (Derek makes Meldville wines here) 4888 Ontario St. North, Beamsville ON, L0R 1B3 and pick up wine by the bottle(s) or case(s).
 
• Derek Barnett is synonymous with Lailey Vineyard. However, in 2015 Lailey was sold and Derek made the decision to move on. He had been at Lailey as a principal and the winemaker since 2001. He has been winemaker at Karlo Estates in Prince Edward County since leaving Lailey and now has launched his shiny-new virtual winery in Niagara – Meldville Wines. Remember the name, you’ll be hearing more from them—Derek’s many winemaking skills have certainly retained their elegant touch as seen in the wines below. 

• The following 2020 Meldville Wines ‘Muscat Bubble’ Sparkling Wine was made via the Charmat method from 100% Muscat Ottonel grapes that were sourced during the dazzling VQA Ontario vintage of 2020. The fruit was in pristine condition and was subjected to an almost perfect growing season and ideal harvest conditions. This is Meldville’s first release of a sparkling wine and it’s quite special.

93drink now Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines ‘Muscat Bubble’ Sparkling Wine 2020
VQA Ontario $23.00 9.0% alcohol
Alluring, almost sexy aromas of exotic incense, floral notes, coconut and notions of rosewater on the nose. It delivers a gorgeous mousse on pouring along with off-dry palate flavours of lemon chiffon pie, poached pear and ripe apricot to the fore. It’s light on its feet with deft balance and persistent palate flavour through to the finish and aftertaste. This is just the bubbly to start off happy hour and it also pours well with spicy Asian appetizers. It punches well above its price and is worthy of a multiple purchase. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2020 Meldville Wines Cabernet Franc Rosé was sourced from cabernet franc grapes from the VQA sub-appellation of Lincoln Lakeshore, an area that’s known for its closeness to Lake Ontario and the benefit it receives from the cooling breezes that temper the heat in summer and the warmth provided during the cool seasons. This makes for an extended growing season that allows the fruit to ripen to near perfection.

93drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines Cabernet Franc Rosé 2020
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $20.00 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of floral notes, strawberry and red cherry provide segue to a delicious mouthful of ripe red plum, wild strawberry along with pie cherry tang and piquant, peppery spice. This has superb mouthfeel, texture and deftly balanced flavour from first to last drop. The finish lingers, you shouldn’t, this should sell pretty quickly given the price-quality proposition swinging well in your favour. Pour with all manner of deli platter or charcuterie board. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2019 Meldville Wines ‘Fifth Edition – Derek Barnett’ Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from the Lizak Vineyard in the VQA sub-appellation of Lincoln Lakeshore, an area that’s known for its closeness to Lake Ontario and the benefit it receives from the cooling breezes that temper the heat in summer and the warmth provided during the cool seasons. This makes for an extended growing season that allows the fruit to ripen to near perfection virtually every year. There was two days of skin contact before being pressed and cold settled. It was fermented in stainless steel tanks with selected yeast and spent three months with lees contact and gentle stirring every few weeks.

91drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines ‘Fifth Edition – Derek Barnett’ Sauvignon Blanc 2019
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $20.00 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of gooseberry, savoury herbs and grassy notes abound. It races over the palate with a laser-like stream of tang and acidity expressed as lemon-lime juice soon joined by hints of white grapefruit and grilled pineapple. This is medium-bodied with good mouthfeel and plenty of tang and pizzazz. The finish and aftertaste are racy, but also showcase some less tangy Key lime and Meyer lemon flavours. Pour alongside line-caught freshwater fish or steamed crabs and mussels served with a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Meldville Wines ‘Barrel Select – Derek Barnett’ Syrah was fermented in small bins with hand punch downs 2-3 times daily and pressed off after 22 days of skin contact. It was aged in older barrels for 16 months before bottling. This is the first twist-cap wine from Derek Barnett and Meldville Wines.

94drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines ‘Barrel Select – Derek Barnett’ Syrah 2018
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $27.00 13.0% alcohol
This is oozing with alluring aromas—black currant, dark chocolate and crème de cassis are dominant along with savoury herbs. It envelops the palate with a medium-plus bodied, nicely textured wash of juicy black Bing cherry and ripe mulberry robed in peppery spice. It’s closer to being a premium Aussie shiraz than most Ontario syrah. It finishes balanced and bountiful with a lengthy finish and aftertaste. This is certainly worth a purchase. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Meldville Wines ‘Fourth Edition – Derek Barnett’ Chardonnay sourced grapes for this wine grown very close to the shores of Lake Ontario where light breezes off the lake tended to keep the intense heat and humidity at bay just a little bit. Grapes were harvested in great condition. They were crushed and destemmed before a gentle pressing. Juice was settled in tank before transfer to small 225L, 2nd- and 3rd-fill French oak barrels for fermentation. Ferment was slow in the cool environment of the barrel cellar giving bright, clean and fresh flavours. Malolactic ferment was completed after which the wine was allowed to rest on its lees, without stirring for 10 months. The wine was then bottled after minimal filtration.

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines ‘Fourth Edition – Derek Barnett’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $20.00 13.0% alcohol
Aged ten months in old French oak barrels before bottling, this fine offering opens with aromas of apple, spice, toasted brioche, a hint of caramel and a mineral note which replay, gently coating the nicely-textured palate. Dry, medium bodied and well-balanced, it finishes medium long with a pleasant suggestion of grapefruit pith appearing in the aftertaste. Enjoy with pan-seared rainbow trout. (Lisa Isabelle)

• The following 2018 Meldville Wines ‘Derek Barnett - Barrel Select’ Chardonnay was recently released. It was harvested by hand, whole-berry pressed with stems and cold settled before transfer to barrel. 100% barrel fermented in 2-3 year old barrels with selected yeast and completed malolactic ferment. It was aged in barrel and on fermentation lees for 20 months then lightly filtered before bottling.

94drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines ‘Derek Barnett - Barrel Select’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $26.00 13.0% alcohol
A brightly hued light-gold in the glass, aromas of caramel, vanilla and yeast abound on the nose. A stylish surge of yellow peach, pear and green apple dominate the palate flavours robed in vanilla and poached pear persisting through the lengthy, delectable finish and aftertaste. This is medium-weight with good structure and texture and plenty of flair and wonderful mouth-watering tang. Kudos to owner/winemaker Derek Barnett for not allowing this to become ‘oaky’. Give it a go with a festive turkey and all the fixings or steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2019 Meldville Wines ‘Derek Barnett – First Edition’ Riesling saw little intervention as do all ‘First Edition’ wines. They are crafted in a time-honoured manner allowing the vines to tell their own story. It has paid off in spades with this wine earning a Double-Gold award in the prestigious, most recent 2021 All Canadian Wine Championship. This was an ideal vintage year for Riesling with cooler temperatures allowing a slow ripening process that developed amazing flavours and kept the acid balanced without high sugar development. Following harvest the grapes were crushed, destemmed and pressed off immediately with minimal skin contact. Fermentation was slow keeping the flavours full and the wine pretty.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines ‘Derek Barnett – First Edition’ Riesling 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.00 11.0% alcohol (Licensee $18.57 before HST and deposit)
Notions of petrol, minerality and yellow plum aromas on the nose are precursors to a balanced-on-a-pin and mouth-watering stream of pure ambrosia with plenty of tang and mouth-watering acidity decorated with lime cordial, pineapple and pomelo. This is slightly off-dry with flair, elegance and plenty of mouth-watering tang. Pour with baked and maple syrup glazed, bone-in ham, dotted with cloves. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Meldville Wines ‘Derek Barnett – Third Edition’ Pinot Noir will be released in October, 2021. The grapes were hand-harvested from Wagner Vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake then fermented in small bins with punch down by hand 2-3 times daily. The fermentation was started with wild yeast and finished with selected yeast while the final 20% was pressed off after 18 days of skin contact. The malolactic ferment completed in barrel. The wine then spent 17 months in barrel, all French oak and 2-3 year old barrels. It was bottled after a coarse filtration. This vineyard always produces lighter colour with quite intense flavour.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines ‘Derek Barnett – Third Edition’ Pinot Noir 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $27.00 12.5% alcohol
It’s quite lightly hued in the glass, although there are lifted aromas of peppery spice, red currant and cherry/berry fruit. It delivers more of the same on the palate with flavours of ripe red plum and Montmorency cherry intertwined with grilled savoury herbs and plenty of tang and acidity. This is medium-weight with good balance and plenty of persistent purity of fruit, good structure and a dry, lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside home-smoked duck breasts on a bed of olive-oiled arugula and mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2019 Meldville Wines ‘Derek Barnett’ Pinot Grigio is a lighter-styled wine with a nice rich texture and a very reasonable price. After being asked by numerous restaurants if I would make one, here it is. This is all stainless steel fermented, aged on lees for 3 months, cool fermented at 14 °C with 110 cases produced.’ Derek Barnett.

90drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines ‘Derek Barnett’ Pinot Grigio 2019
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $17.50 12.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of floral notes, tropical fruit and citrus notes waft easily from the glass preceding a surge of delightful flavours, balanced and bountiful—honey-drizzled poached pear joined by lemon curd and plenty of tang and pizzazz make this desirable and versatile with food. It’s light on its feet, but not lacking in flavour or mouthfeel. Give this a go as an aperitif to get the gastric juices flowing or with all manner of pan-seared freshwater fish or steamed mussels.

• The following 2016 Meldville Wines ‘Derek Barnett – Third Edition’ Cabernet Franc was sourced from grapes that were in excellent condition with small ripe berries with amazing flavours Fruit was destemmed and gently crushed and transferred to one tonne bins for fermentation using ambient yeasts to begin fermentation then later was finished up with select yeasts. Manual punch downs daily extracted colour, tannin and flavours. The wine was pressed off and settled for a few days before being barreled down. Malolactic fermentation was completed in barrel. The wine was matured for 15 months in older French and American oak barrels before racking into stainless steel tank. It was lightly filtered before bottling.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines ‘Derek Barnett – Third Edition’ Cabernet Franc 2016
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $27.00 13.5% alcohol
Ontario cabernet franc shines in all its splendor in this wine from skilled winemaker Derek Barnett’s own label. A complex nose—ripe black fruit, anise, tobacco and charred green bell pepper—set the table for palate-bathing flavours of ripe dark cherry, blackberry, bright raspberry and bay leaf wrapped in noticeable, acceptable polished tannin. There’s 15 months of French old-barrel maturation in this medium-full bodied beauty and it will only get better with a few more years of cellaring or pour now after two hours of aeration/decant. Pour alongside grilled gourmet sausage or stuffed eggplant. (Louise Boutin)

Special Feature – Wines of Argentina

• The following ten wines are available now in many LCBO retail stores with some fabulous wines at a deep discount now until September 12, 2021 for every bottle purchased. The following ten wines are showing the Limited Time Only discounted price.

• The following 2019 El Esteco ‘Don David – Reserve’ Malbec was sourced from high-altitude estate vineyards at 1800 metres in the Calchaqui Valley. This 100% Malbec was hand-harvested then macerated on skins at 8 °C in stainless steel tanks. It was then fermented with both commercial and native yeasts, Post fermentation maceration totalled 30 days. It underwent malo-lactic fermentation in contact with oak then 70% of wine matured for 12 months in contact with French and American oak while the balance was settling in stainless steel tanks. This is exceptional value and worthy of a multiple purchase.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

El Esteco ‘Don David – Reserve’ Malbec 2019

Calchaqui Valley, Salta, Argentina $15.00 (483263) 14.0% alcohol

Typical with high altitude malbec, this is deep purple with intense aromas—plum compote, blackberry, tobacco and a hint of cinnamon. Expect a cool stream of bright purple fruit flavours—blackberry, plum, blueberry—revealed in a tangy fashion along with pleasant chewy tannin and a peppery note emerging in the fruit-forward dry finish. This medium-full bodied red deserves a one hour aeration/decant before pairing with juicy lamb chops or pork ribs hot off the grill. (Louise Boutin)

• The following 2019 Alamos Malbec was sourced from 300 metres to 500 metres in the foothills of the Andes. Sourced primarily (97%) from Malbec vines, there is also a blend of 1% Bonarda/1% Syrah/1% Tempranillo with all grapes sourced from estate vineyards. All the grapes chosen for this wine were hand-harvested, de-stemmed and crushed with the must then cold soaked for two to three days. It was then fermented in upright conical tanks for eight to twelve days at 29 °C. Throughout the fermentation wine was pumped over the cap extracting colour and flavours. It then underwent malo-lactic fermentation then matured for six to eight months with chips and staves of French oak.

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Alamos Malbec 2019

Mendoza, Argentina (295139) $14.00 13.5% alcohol

Sweet cherry, raspberry jam, and red plum with intriguing notes of orange zest, dark chocolate and a delicate floral note waft easily from the glass. Flavours of tart cherry and red plum with hints of juniper berry and rosemary bathe the tangy palate. Dry, medium bodied with vibrant acidity and gentle tannins, a dash of piquant spice enlivens the medium-long finish. This well-priced malbec would complement eggplant parmesan. (Lisa Isabelle)

• The following 2019 Doña Paula ‘Los Cardos’ Sauvignon Blanc was hand harvested, early morning from 100% estate-grown fruit from high-altitude (1000 m) in cool vineyards, is certified sustainable, and is vegan friendly and gluten free. Not many wines under $10 sore as well as this one.

89drink now Exceptional Value!

Doña Paula ‘Los Cardos’ Sauvignon Blanc 2020

Tupungato, Uco Valley, Argentina $9.60 (11943) 12.0% alcohol

Lifted aromas of grassy notes, nettles, pineapple and herbal notes abound on the nose. It races over the palate with nerve and verve expressed as passionfruit, gooseberry and plenty of mouth-watering acidity. It’s light on its feet with plenty of pizzazz with palate flavours replaying on the tingling finish and aftertaste. Give this a go with a plate of gourmet sushi accompanied by pickled ginger and wasabi. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Graffigna ‘150 Years’ Pinot Grigio 2019 was sourced from 100% Pinot Grigio fruit from San Juan and Mendoza vineyards with wide thermal amplitudes and over 300 days per annum of sunshine that enhances each grape variety’s aromas, flavours and concentration. This was cool fermented at a controlled 15 °C for 15 days without skins, malo-lactic fermentation or a splinter of oak. Remove from refrigerator twenty minutes before service. The ‘150 Years’ on the label pays homage to Santiago Graffigna who planted the now, second-oldest vineyard in Argentina.

90drink now Exceptional Value!

Graffigna ‘150 Years’ Pinot Grigio 2019

San Juan, Argentina $13.05 (164756) 13.5% alcohol

Floral notes, ripe honeydew melon and tropical fruit aromas abound. It dazzles the palate with lemon-lime cordial and crisp green apple and ripe Bosc pear. It’s medium weight with delightful mouthfeel and plenty of crisp, refreshing flavour. Look for palate replays on the finish and aftertaste along with some mineral notes and wisps of honey. Pour on its own when the lazy days of summer are here or, if you like, with sushi or arugula tossed in olive oil and decorated with cubed feta cheese. Pick up a few, it punches well over the price. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2020 Bodegas Salentein Wines ‘Portillo’ Pinot Noir was sourced from mountain vineyards from high plateaus in the Uco Valley of Mendoza, Argentina. They employ a gravity system for moving wine, apparently somewhat unique in this part of the world. Grapes are hand-picked then destemmed before transfer to stainless steel tanks where cold maceration takes place at 8 to 10 °C, followed by fermentation for 7 to 10 days.

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  

Bodegas Salentein Wines ‘Portillo’ Pinot Noir 2020

Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina $13.00 (19274) 14.05 alcohol

Light-ruby hued in the glass, it dishes up aromas of bright cherry/berry and notions of savoury herbs. This captures the palate with a lovely mélange of flavours with freshly picked strawberry, ripe juicy black Ranier cherry and black plum. There’s baking spice and ripe soft tannin added to the mix on the finish and aftertaste. This showcases ripe fruit, balancing tang and acidity, persistent purity of fruit, great mouthfeel and versatility at the table. Pour with roast chicken with cut-up root veggies in the bottom of the pan—turnip, potato, carrot, parsnip, or coq au vin or crown roast of pork or lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2017 La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from 100% hand-harvested Cabernet Sauvignon from their finest vineyard ‘La Mascota’ in Cruz de Piedra, Maipú, Mendoza one of the oldest and most prestigious wine regions in Mendoza. This was followed by bunch selection, destemming and crushing then fermentation and maceration for 25 days in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature of 23-25 °C. Natural malo-lactic fermentation followed then the wine was matured for 12 months in French and American oak barrels before being filtered and bottled.

89drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Mendoza, Argentina (292110) $13.95 14.0% alcohol

Ripe fruit aromas dominate the nose with black currant, black cherry and blueberry to the fore, decorated with herbal notes. It is fresh and lively on the palate with red cherry/berry flavours interlaced with peppery notes and plenty of tang and acidity underpinned by ripe, soft tannin. This is medium-weight with good texture and mouthfeel that would benefit from a two-hour aeration/decant. Pour alongside prawn, chorizo and tomato sauce paella. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Susana Balbo ‘Crios’ Torrontés is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores. This wine was sourced from hand-harvested 100% Torrontés fruit from Salta and Uco Valley in Mendoza at an elevation of 1700 meters above sea level. It was fermented at 12-14 °C and left on its lees for three months to enhance the wine. Susana Balbo is one of the planet’s premier wine makers. This white gem punches well above its price.

91drink now Exceptional Value!
Susana Balbo ‘Crios’ Torrontés 2020

Cafayate Valley, Salta, Valle de Uco, Argentina $12.95 (1834) 13.0% alcohol

Aromas of rosewater, piquant spice and tropical fruit provide segue to a crisp, clean and refreshing wash of tang-infused flavour with lemon zest, white grapefruit and hints of orange marmalade and mineral notes to the fore. It’s medium bodied with firm texture and mouthfeel and plenty of acidity and pizzazz from twist top to last drop. Pour on its own over the next 12 or so months or alongside pan-seared fish or grilled calamari, both under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Graffigna ‘150 Years – Reserve’ Malbec 2019 was sourced from 100% Malbec in San Juan and Mendoza that was on skins macerating for 15 days and underwent 8 days of fermentation then malo-lactic fermentation and aged in concrete and stainless steel containers. The ‘150 Years’ on the label pays homage to Santiago Graffigna who planted the now, second-oldest vineyard in Argentina.

89drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Graffigna ‘150 Years - Reserve’ Malbec 2019

San Juan and Mendoza, Argentina $12.05 (230474) 13.5% alcohol

Aromas of dark bramble berry fruit, a sprig of savory herbs and some earthy bits on the nose precede a beautifully balanced and a bountiful mouthful of passionfruit, red cherry and sweet ripe mulberry decorated with tang-laden pizzazz and plenty of charm on the palate. It’s medium-bodied with good mouthfeel and a lingering finish and aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips wildly in your favour; pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Santa Julia ‘Reserva’ Malbec is a “Fair for Life” certified brand, sustainably sourced, supporting its workers, their families and local infrastructure. It also offers consistent quality with a long track record of recognition from top wine critics. This wine was sourced from 100%, hand-harvested malbec from the Valle de Uco region at altitudes from 1070m to 1200m above sea level. It was then fermented with various vineyard yeasts with a portion matured 10 months in French oak.

89drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Bodega Santa Julia ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2018

Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina $13.95 (429761) 13.7% alcohol

This deep-purple shaded, high-altitude malbec presents with aromas of ripe blackberry, plum, black pepper and a gamy note in the backdrop. A warm and spicy wash of sweet black cherry and ripe mixed berry flavours is joined by light chalky tannin and savoury herb notes, leading to a dry enjoyable finish and aftertaste. Two hours of aeration/decant will help soften the alcohol imbalanced first impression. Enjoy with grilled meats or eggplant parmigiana. (Louise Boutin)

• The vines sourced in the following 2018 Terrazas ‘de los Andes – High Altitude Vineyard – Reserva’ Malbec have aged 20 to 80 years. Grapes underwent classic fermentation with selected yeast from estate vineyards at 25 ºC. Maceration was for 20 days. A portion of the wine was aged in French oak for 10 months. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour; pick up an armful.

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Terrazas ‘de los Andes – High Altitude Vineyard – Reserva’ Malbec 2018
Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (29280) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas abound on the nose of this alluring Malbec with black currant, black Bing cherry and ripe black raspberry to the fore. It blankets the palate with fresh, crunchy red fruit—pie cherry and pomegranate intertwined with dark fruit—black plum and spice-infused bramble berry. It’s loaded with tangy acidity and plenty of pizzazz along with replays of the palate flavours through the finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours before serving with prime cuts of medium-rare grilled beef. (Vic Harradine)

LCBO ‘Limited Time Offers’ – August 16 to September 12, 2021

• Regardless of the vintage you purchase from the LCBO, you’ll receive the discount shown below for each bottle of wine reviewed below that’s purchased (either ‘in person’ or online) August 16 to September 12, 2021.

White Wine

• The following four wines will have a discount of $2.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from August 16 to September 12, 2021

87drink now Exceptional Value!

Anselmi ‘San Vincenzo’

IGT Veneto, Italy $16.95 (948158) 12.5% alcohol

An über-savory nose of grassy notes and sprigs of savory herbs dressed in piquant spice provide segue to this garganega blend. The mid-weight, lightly textured stream of palate-pleasing flavour skips over the palate with flavours of lemongrass, pear and wisps of apple persisting through the mid-length finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own as a pleasant pre-dinner sipper. (Vic Harradine)

92drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!

Cave Spring Cellars ‘Estate’ Riesling

VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (286377) 12.0% alcohol

This value-packed, single-vineyard riesling, produced with fruit from vines averaging 20 years of age, opens with expressive notes of apple, pear, peach and lemon-lime, underscored by hints of petrol and a mineral note. Dry, medium bodied, crisp yet weighty in texture, citrus flavours lead the charge across the palate followed by yellow apple and a wet mineral note which lasts into the long, flavourful finish. Enjoy with apple stuffed roast pork. (Lisa Isabelle)

• The following Megalomaniac ‘Narcissist’ Riesling is a Vintages Essentials wine—always found in many select LCBO retail stores.

89drink now Oh Canada!

Megalomaniac ‘Narcissist’ Riesling
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (67587) 11.0% alcohol
Citrus, minerality and floral notes waft freely from the aromatic nose followed by a balanced and beautiful, palate-bathing wash of lemon-lime, white grapefruit and juicy peach on the palate. The sweet and tangy, lip-smacking aftertaste interweaves with lingering, ripe-fruit flavour. Poured well with spicy, Asian cuisine like moo chu pork. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Susana Balbo ‘Crios’ Torrontés is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores. This wine was sourced from hand-harvested 100% Torrontés fruit from Salta and Uco Valley in Mendoza at an elevation of 1700 meters above sea level. It was fermented at a maximum of 13 °C and left on its lees for three months in oak to enhance structure in the wine. Susana Balbo is one of the planet’s premier wine makers. This white gem punches well above its price.

91drink now Exceptional Value!
Susana Balbo ‘Crios’ Torrontés

Cafayate Valley, Salta, Valle de Uco, Argentina $14.95 (1834) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of rosewater, piquant spice and tropical fruit provide segue to a crisp, clean and refreshing wash of tang-infused flavour with lemon curd, white grapefruit and hints of blood orange and mineral notes to the fore. It’s medium bodied with firm mouthfeel and plenty of acidity and pizzazz from twist top to last drop. Pour on its own over the next 12 or so months or alongside pan-seared fish or grilled calamari, both under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine will have a discount of $3.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from August 16 to September 12, 2021

90drink now Exceptional Value!

Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Sauvignon Blanc

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (324228) $21.95 13.0% alcohol

The fruit for this gem was sourced from the ‘Golden Mile’ in Marlborough, it’s blessed with extra warmth relayed by the stones covering the soil that allow the grapes to fully mature. Partially hand-harvested and aged six months in French oak, this delicious white offers citrus aromas along with lactic, cedar, grassy and mineral notes. Deliciously tart and crisp on the palate, this is medium bodied with flavours of grapefruit, honeydew melon and lime zest finished with beautiful minerality. Try alongside scallop ceviche for a mouth-watering pairing. (Louise Boutin)

Red Wine

• The following four wines will have a discount of $2.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from August 16 to September 12, 2021

• The folks from Caymus, the iconic Charles F. Wagner is winemaker, only reveal two of the grapes that make up the following multi-blend 2014 Conundrum Red—zinfandel and petite sirah—with no mention of oak or winemaking regimen—other than that it is oaked.

88drink now   

Conundrum Red 2014

California $24.95 (294298) 15.2% alcohol

Dark cherry/berry aromas, charred toast and spice box leap from the almost-opaque liquid in the glass. Ripe, sweet fruit envelops the palate—black plum compote, cherry cordial and rich, blackberry jam to the fore, decorated with milk chocolate. This is full bodied, fully textured and certainly fully flavoured with a lengthy sweet-tinged, fruit-forward finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!   

M. Chapoutier ‘Les Vignes de Bila-Haut’ Côtes du Roussillon-Village
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $15.95 (168716) 14.0% alcohol
Consistently great value, this southern Rhône blend of grenache, syrah and carignan opens with fresh red fruit and strawberry jam aromas with hints of vanilla, spice and an earthy note adding interest. Dry, medium bodied and well-structured with silky tannins and balancing acidity, spiced cherry and plum flavours generously coat the palate. The warming, lengthy finish delivers a wine well suited for braised beef short ribs. (Lisa Isabelle)

• The following Rocca delle Macie ‘Riserva Chianti is a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO retail stores.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Rocca delle Macie ‘Riserva’ Chianti

DOCG Chianti, Italy $15.95 (111641) 13.5% alcohol

Aromas of cherry/berry fruit and floral notes introduce a medium-bodied, nicely textured stream of lively, tang-laden palate flavour with red currant, ripe black cherry and passionfruit. This is primarily sangiovese with a cup or two of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. It’s medium weight, nicely textured with good red fruit flavour framed with tang and underpinned by wisps of soft tannin. A wash of pie cherry and red currant jelly races over the palate persisting through the finish and adorned with wisps of tannin on the aftertaste. Best poured with pasta in a tomato-based sauce; try spaghetti Bolognese or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar

Wines of Substance Cabernet Sauvignon

Washington State, U.S.A. $23.95 (419770) 13.5% alcohol

This superb Washington State cabernet sauvignon is opaque in the glass and alive with aromas of mocha, cherry, vanilla and traces of rosemary. It hits the palate full bodied and bursting with juicy, red fruit flavours. The tannin’s prominent but smooth and there’s good balance of acidity drawing out a pleasantly herbaceous finish. Cellar for another 5 years or enjoy now with a juicy, medium-rare steak. (Dave Isaacs)

• The following three wines will have a discount of $3.00 taken off the price shown below for each bottle purchased from August 16 to September 12, 2021

88drink or cellar
Concha y Toro ‘Winemaker’s Lot 148’ Carmenère
Rapel Valley, Chile $18.95 (30957) 14.0% alcohol

This is good value and it’s rich, ripe and rarin’ to go now. A beautifully balanced river of juicy black Bing cherry and black plum interweave with racy pomegranate and herbal notes on the creamy smooth palate along with mixed spice and mocha. It’s a bit funky on the nose with some bell pepper and strong herbal notes, but that melts away and you’re left with a creamy-smooth, hedonistic offering. It pours and pairs well with burgers, red pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellar

Louis M. Martini Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon

Sonoma County $24.95 (292151) 14.0% alcohol
This approachable, versatile red offers intense aromas of blackberry, cassis, roasted red pepper and cedar. Dry, medium-full bodied, with perceptible tannin, the palate is supple and juicy with ripe dark plums, blackberry coulis, tobacco and a hint of vanilla. Pour alongside peppercorn steak. (Lisa Isabelle)

92drink or cellar

Two Hands Wines ‘The Gnarly Dudes’ Shiraz

Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.95 (660043) 13.8% alcohol

Purple/black, almost opaque in the glass, this unleashes aromas of ripe black berry fruit with support from mixed spice and savory herbs. On the palate, crunchy red fruit—pie cherry and cranberry—meet up with ripe black fruit—currant and mulberry—in a delightful, delicious pairing that’s balanced, well paced and well priced. Flavours replay on the long, mouth-watering finish. This pours well on its own—with each sip as good, or better than the previous—and with rack of Australian lamb or grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine receives a $5.00 discount on the price shown below on each bottle purchased August 16 to September 12, 2021.

90drink or cellar       

Stags’ Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley, California $62.95 (996405) 14.1% alcohol

This offers good balance on the palate, flavourful fruit and a drying, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Aromas of dark berry fruit, tarry notes and grilled savory herbs provide segue for a full-bodied, generously textured flow of black berry, sweet vanilla and racy red currant washing over the palate infusing the dry finish and aftertaste along with reverberating tang. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling and Rosé Wine

• All the following wines receive a $2.00 discount on the price shown below on each bottle purchased August 16 to September 12, 2021.

• The following Kim Crawford Rosé is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores.

90drink now Exceptional Value!

Kim Crawford Rosé

Hawke’s Bay $18.95 (650325) 13.0% alcohol

A wonderful rosé to raise in a toast to spring, this is a blend of 93% merlot with the balance malbec. It has a salmon-pink and peach-hue colour, with a nose of strawberry and clover aromas. This is medium-full bodied with a slightly off-dry sensation and nice crisp level of acidity. There are flavours of strawberry throughout, and a slight touch of gentle tannins on the finish. Enjoy with a baby spinach and strawberry salad drizzled with balsamic vinegar. (Dave Isaacs)

• The following Santa Margherita Prosecco is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select stores

90drink now Exceptional Value!  

Santa Margherita ‘Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut’ Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage

DOC Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Italy $17.95 (687582) 11.5% alcohol 

Citrus, toasty, and floral on the nose this dishes out a creamy smooth texture and delicious flavour—it’s also good value. There are oodles of bubbles with a river white peach, lemon sherbet and mouth-watering tang on the palate and lip-smacking finish. Wonderful as a welcoming wine and can be poured with stand-around appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé is an eclectic blend—58% pinot noir/20% cabernet franc/9% gamay noir/8% merlot/5% cabernet sauvignon—sourced from various select vineyards, including estate, in the VQA appellation of Niagara Peninsula.

• This is also a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores.

90drink now Exceptional Value!

Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (172643) 12.0% alcohol

Aromas leap from the glass of this unique red blend blend—58% pinot noir/20% cabernet franc/9% gamay noir/8% merlot/5% cabernet sauvignon—with watermelon, strawberry and raspberry to the fore. It captures the palate with a surge of blood orange and ruby red grapefruit nicely juxtaposed with notions of ripe juicy black cherry. It’s deftly balanced, medium bodied with silky smooth mouthfeel and plenty of tang and excellent acidity providing plenty of pizzazz on the palate and lip-smacking finish. Pour with a baguette and charcuterie board or east-coast Canadian salmon pan-seared in butter. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Lisa, Louise, Dave, Vic