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An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Vintages release 17 February 2007
This newsletter includes only a few reviews from the 17 February release. Vic is visiting vineyards and wineries in Australia, and Rod was unable to attend the advance tasting. But we include a full range of reviews in the other categories.

 

Ontario: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Flat Rock Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (001545)
Flat Rock is turning out fine wines across the board, and they've nailed Pinot Noir with this one. It's well-made, with good body and texture, and it delivers fruit that is complex and interesting. Look for red cherry dominant with notes of earth, spice and herbs. It's drinking well now and will improve a little over the next three-four years. Pair it with a grilled veal chop. (RP)

Chile: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Rapel Valley $16.95 (398800)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Cedar notes and black cherry aromas form a segue to this ripe and richly concentrated beauty. It drips with black raspberry and kirsch flavours and offers a grippy tannin structure. The medium-length finish offers more of the same along with good zest and tang. This has the guts to go to 2012 and would pair well with grilled steaks or smoked and bar b qued ribs. This offers outstanding value. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Casa Lapostolle Merlot 2005
Rapel Valley $16.95 (405712)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Aromatics of sharp Montmorency cherry juice plus hints of toasty oak greet the taster. Lots of red and black berry fruit in this medium-textured red along with spicy black plum. It finishes with a medicinal cherry flavour and a touch of iodine. Round and ready, you will find no edges on this drink-now Merlot. Pair to tomato-based sauces in pasta dishes. (VH)

Australia: white

**** drink now
Parri Estate Viognier/Chardonnay 2005
Southern Fleurieu, South Australia $15.95 (017319)
The Viognier comes through well in this blend, with quite intense flavours of peach and apricot. The acidity is pitched well and plays counterpoint to the sweet fruit, making this a lovely wine to pair with grilled pork tenderloin or sweet white poultry. (RP)

Australia: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Parri Estate Pinot Noir 2004
Southern Fleurieu, South Australia $19.95 (017293)
A really quite elegant Pinot Noir from a lesser-known Australian appellation. Look for solid fruit flavours (red and black cherry, red berry, dark plum) with good, complex notes of herbs and spices. It has a smooth but substantial texture and good balance, and makes a fine partner to grilled lamb chops. (RP)

South Africa: White

**** drink now
Delheim Sur Lie Chardonnay 2005
WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $19.95 (956219)
This is quite elegant, just the thing if you think you're becoming bored with Chardonnay. It delivers fresh citrus fruit (lemon-lime) with apple and a hint of peach and some oak accents. The texture is fine and smooth and this pairs very well with a range of seafood and poultry dishes. (RP)

Upstream on Winecurrent

Look for these wines in forthcoming Vintages releases

Classics Catalogue - February, 2007

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann "Stonewall" Shiraz 2001
Barossa Valley, Australia $74.95 (724625)
The highly perfumed nose offers mocha, cherry and hints of toast. A gargantuan wine that achieves an incredible richness without being over-oaked or over-concentrated. Rich flavours of Bing cherry and savoury black plum gush over the palate while the 18 months in oak and firm, ripe tannins have been well-integrated. It finishes plush, tangy and warm (14.5% alcohol). Enjoy now with grilled rare red meat or cellar with confidence to 2012. (VH)

Vintages release - April 28, 2007

****1/2 drink now
Peter Lehmann "Mentor" 2001
Barossa Valley, Australia $39.95 (724336)
Very limited quantities will see this fly off shelves. Look for leafy aromas and hints of leather and cherry off the beguiling nose of this predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon (63%) red blend. The flavour profile includes licorice, black currant and plum while the medium-textured frame is enhanced by ripe tannin, a moderating spoonful of tang and a glorious finish that layers on Christmas cake spice. Smooth and silky, pour this with osso bucco or beef daube. (VH)

Vintages release - May, 2007

**** drink now
Peter Lehmann GSM 2001
Barossa Valley, Australia $17.95
Close to an even split with the grape varieties, it has produced an easy drinking, round and ready delicious blend, the perfect partner to pizza, tomato-based pasta dishes or gourmet burgers. Expect savoury spice from the Grenache, textured flavours of mulberry and plum from the Shiraz and rustic flavours of dried cranberry and gamey notes from the Mourvèdre. At this price, stock up. (VH)

Vintages release - September 1, 2007

****1/2 drink now
Bay of Fires "Tigress" Pinot Noir 2005
Tasmania, Australia $29.95 (20233)
Bright ruby red in the glass, it begins with a beguiling and lifted nose of savoury red berry fruit. Wine makers and wine-lovers are sailing to these cool climate, island Pinots with good reason. You will revel in crisp and tangy currant, cranberry and savoury flavours on a medium-bodied frame with deft balance and a luxurious finish. New world fruit - old world charm. Smoked duck with mango chutney, please. (VH)

Vintages release - September 15, 2007

***** drink now
Houghton Shiraz 2002
Frankland River, Australia $35.95 (39560)
A glorious drop from a lesser-known Western Australia appellation. Licorice, black plum and tarry notes waft from the glass of this plush (egg white-fined) and ready to drink beauty. All is in harmony - fruit flavours in the cassis and black cherry zones, moderating tang and moderate alcohol (14%), delicately-handled oak, ripe tannins and a lovely finish that weaves in some black currant flavours. Superb. (VH)

Vintages release - October 13, 2007

****1/2 drink or cellar
Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz 2003
Clare Valley, Australia $25.95 (448241)
Many collectors hold multiple vintages and you will want to keep the string alive, or choose this vintage to start yours. The aromatic profile is powerful and perfumed with mulberry and black licorice. The rich and robust flavours of boysenberry, vanilla bean and kirsch drench the palate. There is a generous dollop of zest and enough grip from the soft ripe tannins to provide gorgeous balance and interest. Drink now, after a 2 hour decant, or cellar with confidence until 2012. (VH)

Vintages release - November 10, 2007

****1/2 drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estate "Ebenezer" Shiraz 2003
Barossa Valley, Australia $39.95 (971705)
From premium fruit (low yields, old vines, tiny berries), just shy of making the final cut for the fabulous E & E Black Pepper Shiraz, this is less than half the price per bottle. Pepper and spiced black plum on the nose, this blossoms in the glass, showcasing oodles of rich dark bramble berry and cassis flavours, ripe and perceptible tannin, incredible balance, full-bodied texture and a soft finish. This is gutsy without being jammy. Drink now, with a 3 hour decant, but better 2009 to 2014. (VH)

New in Vintages

**** cellar
d'Arenberg "The Footbolt" Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale, Australia $20.95 (984021)
The first wine in the world (1980's) to be labelled "Old Vine", the name was changed to Footbolt in 1996. Full-bodied and powerful flavours of spiced plum, gamey notes and mocha are underpinned by lashings of oak and moderate acidity. This has considerable oomph from a grainy tannic structure. Confirm the vintage as stores may have both the 03 and 04 on shelves. Drink 2008 to 2014 with rack of lamb. (VH)

New in LCBO
Australia

***1/2 drink now
Rosemount 'Diamond' Chardonnay 2006
South Eastern Australia $13.95 (265132)
Nifty new packaging coupled with a bright, clean refreshing fruit attack. Expect spice and toasty notes off the lifted nose then a gusher of lemon/lime, pear and apple flavours on the medium-bodied palate. This has good texture and a well-balanced lingering finish. Would pair well with lightly herbed and spiced chicken dishes. (VH)

**** drink now
Rosemount 'Diamond' Merlot 2005
South Eastern Australia $13.95 (542431)
Lovely aromatics of red berry and exotic spice waft from the glass of this round and ready red. Fruit-forward - plum, bramble berry and earthy cranberry - it also offers deftly integrated oak, a dollop of moderating zest and good structure. Extremely well-priced, it is good to go on its own or pair with grilled red meat. (VH)

**** drink now
Rosemount 'Diamond' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
South Eastern Australia $15.95 (334870)
Bright cherry red in the glass, lovely aromatics of spice, savoury and currant drift from the glass of this medium to full-bodied Cab. Look for stunning fruit in the brambleberry and rich, black cherry zone with good grip from a firm tannic structure. The lovely finish adds a hint of mint and lively nuances of toast and vanilla. Price to quality balance is tipped in your favour. (VH)

**** drink now
Rosemount Diamond Shiraz 2005
South Eastern Australia $15.95 (302349)
Many of us were switched on to Aussie reds with previous vintages of this and it still commands respect. Black pepper and dark plum aromas form the warm (14% alcohol) and lifted nose while the flavours simply gush over the palate - dense dark berry and cassis. The lengthy finish is beautifully balanced and structured with smooth tannins and moderating tang. Pair it to grilled lamb tenderloin or a strip loin of beef. (VH)

Chile

**** drink now
Concha y Toro "Trio" Merlot-Carmenère-Cabernet Sauvignon
Rapel Valley $15.25 (433920)
This blend delivers all the intensity and fruit-forward character we've come to expect from Chilean reds. It has a tangy texture, good balance and rich fruitiness tempered by complex spiciness. Overall, a terrific wine to pair with full-favoured grilled red meat dishes. (RP)

France

**** drink now
Henriques Banyuls
AOC Banyuls $12.45 for 500ml (026922)
This is one of a new LCBO selection of sweet wines from the south of France. Banyuls is a fortified wine that's predominantly Grenache. Look for rich red fruit flavours of raspberries and plums here, with notes of dried fruit and nuts. It's dry and quite sweet with an attractive texture, and it pairs very nicely with chocolate and nuts. (RP)

Croix-Milhas Banyuls
AOC Banyuls $12.45 for 500ml (022814)
Banyuls is my pick for a wine that goes with chocolate. This one is intensely flavoured, dry and quite tannic, and it delivers really lovely rich flavours of dried red fruit and berries, spices and roasted nuts. It pairs very well with all kinds of chocolates and chocolate-dominant desserts. (RP)

New from Ontario wineries

**** drink or cellar
Reif Estate Merlot 2004
VQA Niagara River $23.95 (310914)
A flavour-filled Merlot with a very attractive tangy texture. Look for good complexity in the dark plum, cherry and berry flavours, with notes of spice, pepper and an appealing layer of oak. It's medium bodied and well balanced, and pairs nicely with roasted or grilled red meats. Order from www.reifwinery.com. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Reif Estate "First Growth" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
VQA Niagara River $50
From the stellar 2002 vintage, this Cab in Reif's premium "First Growth" line offers good depth and bread, with complex flavours of dark fruit and berries and notes of coffee and pepper. It's well made and has easily-managed tannins. Hold it another three-four years or drink it now with steak grilled medium-rare. Order from www.reifwinery.com. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Stratus Red 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $38.00
Stratus winemaker J.L. Groux keeps the proportions and varieties in his blends pretty much to his chest; and this red is described as "assembling several different grape varieties." As you sip the delicious and elegant result, you can amuse yourself by trying to guess the varieties and their percentages. Or you can simply enjoy the wine, which delivers restrained complexity, fine red fruit and berry flavours and superb balance. The tannins are easily manageable now, but you can confidently cellar it eight or more years. Then enjoy it with a grilled rack of lamb. Order from www.stratuswines.com. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Stratus Cabernet Franc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $36.00
This is just a beautiful, well-structured Cabernet Franc that reinforces the Stratus winemaker J.L. Groux's reputation for turning out fine varietal wines as well as his trademark blends. It's long and focused on ripe red fruit and berries, with lovely notes of spice, herbs, coffee and a touch of cedar. Medium-bodied and smooth-textured, with fine-grained tannins and quite remarkable balance, it's drinking well now (decant it for a couple of hours) and will easily cellar for another eight years or more. Pair it with venison or other red game meat. Order from www.stratuswines.com. (RP)

New in Restaurants

***** drink now
Mitchell Wines "Peppertree Vineyard" Shiraz 2004
Adelaide Hills $24.50
Pepper (what else?) and black plum aromas ooze from the glass of this opulent red. The deftly handled oak, 12 months in French barrique, is unobtrusive adding gorgeous texture and interest to this medium to full-bodied gem. The flavours are layered and in the ripe, juicy Bing cherry and dark chocolate zones. Wisely bottled under screw cap this would be the perfect foil to rack of lamb. Order by the case from the www.liffordwineagency.com site. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Shaw and Smith "M3 Vineyard" Chardonnay 2005
Adelaide Hills $39.50
This stunning barrel fermented wine showcases cool climate Adelaide Hills fruit; hand harvested at peak then allowed to express itself with minimal intervention in the winery. Complex and full fruit flavour in the citrus, apple and pear zones coalesce with a plush mouth feel and spicy tang. The finish is sophisticated offering a melange of mineral, peach and melon sensations. Order by the case from the www.liffordwineagency.com site in convenient cases of six. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Shaw and Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Adelaide Hills $25.50
Textbook Adelaide Hills, this displays the clean refreshing characteristics of SB along with a gloriously rich mouth feel. Expect green nettles, grassy and mineral aromatics then a lovely gusher of flavours including citrus and nectarine that washes over the plate in glorious layers. The finish is lengthy and refreshing. Made for seafood or goat cheese salad. Order by the case from the www.liffordwineagency.com site. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Shingleback "Black Bubbles" Sparkling Shiraz 2003
McLaren Vale $43.95
This is serious multi-vintage bubbly with all the earmarks of fine wine. Vinified dry from prime fruit and made in the classic style, as in Champagne, expect a gorgeous mousse attack on the palate followed by a creamy texture and ladles of Bing cherry and brambleberry flavours coupled with enough tannin to provide grip and great tang for balance. Divine with old cheddar or dark chocolate. Order by the case from the www.liffordwineagency.com site in convenient cases of six. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Shingleback Shiraz 2003
McLaren Vale $28.95
An enduring McLaren Vale drought produced tiny berries and miniscule yields. The result is rich, concentrated fruit fashioning this wondrous red. Pepper and mulberry on the nose, the palate is drenched with rich, juicy black plum, kirsch and savoury flavours. Lovely texture and interest from finely-grained tannins and deft balance from a dollop of moderating tang mark this a keeper; drink now to 2012. Order by the case from the www.liffordwineagency.com site. (VH).

Cheers!

Rod and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar