April 10, 2021 Newsletter
April 17th is Malbec World Day!
Bodega Catena Zapata created an animated video that is a fabulous guide in telling the story of Malbec’s history in Argentina. It’s about six (6) minutes long. If it doesn’t stir you to seek out a wine or two from Argentina from the many offered in the following ‘Malbec World Day’ feature; you may want to check your pulse. Here’s a link to their video Rebirth of Malbec. This enjoyable, well thought-out video will certainly help you in choosing a few wines (there’s more than just malbec available) from the newsletter and the following link to our Wines of Argentina Feature; it’s something you do not want pass by.
Salut! at Home 2021 Event Information for Ottawa winecurrent readers
Salut! at Home Event – On Wednesday, May 19, 2021, the Children’s Aid Foundation of Ottawa is hosting an evening of good food, good wine, and good company. Each set of two guests will receive two three-course meals created and prepared by Thyme & Again, as well as a bespoke collection of three bottles of Ontario VQA wines paired by renowned Chef Michael Moffatt and Vic Harradine, with wine and food delivered to your home.
Proceeds from this event will go to supporting children and youth at the Children’s Aid Society of Ottawa. Some of their initiatives include providing post-secondary bursaries for former youth in foster care and providing essential items like beds and clothing for families in need.
Registration is now open! Visit www.HelpOttawaKids.ca now to purchase tickets. You can order a dinner for two, or make a group booking for a virtual table of four sets of two (8 people) at a considerable discount – friends, business acquaintances, clients, neighbours. You will be connected much of the evening with just your virtual table of eight via Zoom.
Hope to meet up with you on Zoom that evening!
Newsletter Highlights:
- Lots of wine reviews - The following Newsletter has over 60 wines reviewed.
- 95 points and over – There are four wines that rang the 95 points and over bell. They are found throughout the newsletter.
- Exceptional-value wine – Nineteen wines earned the coveted icon. They’re found throughout the newsletter and easily spotted by the icon checkmark in the April 17, 2021 Vintages Release and in categories following the release. Happy hunting!
- Limited Time Offers –There are 26 wines that are being discounted at the LCBO for up to $5.00 a bottle from March 29 to April 25, 2021 found at the end of the newsletter.
April 17, 2021 Vintages Release
Sparkling Wine
91
Cave Spring Blanc de Blancs Brut Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara Escarpment $29.95 (213983) 12.0% alcohol
Apple, pear and floral aromas introduce this; it’s flavourful and oozing with charm and elegance. Lemon/grapefruit acidity electrifies the palate riding a serious profusion of fine-bead bubbles. Green apple and melon join the palate flavours just before the monumentally long finish and aftertaste clicks in—crisp, refreshing and lip-smacking good. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
87
Charles Baker ‘B-Side’ Riesling 2017
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment $21.95 (523845) 10.3% alcohol
This medium-light bodied slightly petrol-scented white offers a shy nose of yellow orchard fruit. It flows on the palate nicely carrying flavours of ripe pear, golden apple, green apple acidity and mineral notes typical of the varietal. The fruity-mineral finish is clean and dryer than expected considering the alcohol level. Pour now with salty appetizers. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2017 Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Grand Clos’ Chardonnay is about as close as it gets to Burgundy-style premium chardonnay that’s not from Burgundy. It was accomplished when outstanding fruit quality, unique terroir and highly skilled winemaker, Thomas Bachelder, coalesced like angels dancing on the head of a pin.
95 
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Grand Clos’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $44.95 (184549) 13.0% alcohol
The rich aromas of ripe peach, apricot, light butterscotch, vanilla and a freshly cut fennel note announce a treat for the palate. No deception here, with a creamy-textured flow of exquisite flavours— ripe orchard fruit, lemon curd and crème brûlée—traveling the palate without heaviness and developing a comforting warmth on the back palate before offering marzipan, vanilla and savoury notes in the long delectable finish. This is a delight to sip on its own now and will only improve over the next ten years. Coquille St-Jacques or baked Brie are inspired pairings. (Louise Boutin)
Ontario: Red Wine
• The following 2019 Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Gamay was sourced from estate-grown 26 year-old, low-yielding vines—3 tonnes per acre—fermented in stainless steel tanks then matured in a combination of French and American oak for up to 10 months.
91
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Gamay 2019
VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (19903) 13.0% alcohol
Light-purple hued, almost translucent, it offers up delightful aromas of red cherry, black plum and wisps of passionfruit. It’s medium bodied with excellent texture and deft balance and a profusion of palate flavours with pie cherry and red raspberry mingling with mixed spice. There’s a balanced and delectable finish and aftertaste. This has the oomph and pizzazz to be poured with roast chicken or crown roast of pork. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
• This chardonnay from the Stewart family, pioneer west coast winemakers, is sourced from premium Napa Valley vineyards. It was aged four months in French oak, 25% new.
95
Plume Chardonnay 2018
Napa Valley $29.95 (368050) 14.4% alcohol
The first sniff tells you that something great is about to unveil—delicate orchard fruits, a hint of sweet brioche and exotic spice aromas open the door to a full-bodied yet elegant flow of flavours—white peach, yellow apple, papaya, marzipan, creamy lemon curd and cardamom—expertly wrapped in just enough oak to provide perfect balance of flavours and body. This is a true elegant gem that will pair exquisitely with prawn risotto, grilled halibut with lemon butter or simply on its own as a slow sipper. (Louise Boutin)
California: Red Wine
• The following 2017 Parker Station Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from 100% cabernet sauvignon carefully selected in the AVA of Paso Robles, then aged six months in 100% French oak before bottling.
92
Parker Station Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
Paso Robles, Central Coast, California $24.95 (17684) 14.0% alcohol
Intense aromas of black juicy cherry and bramble berry intertwine with exotic spice and black licorice. A medium-full weight, nicely textured river of crème de cassis and kirsch liqueur decorated with sweet vanilla, mouth-watering tang and savoury herbs that blanket the palate and infuse the balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. This sips well on its own and pours well with grilled steak, grilled burgers or pasta, tomato sauce and spiced Italian sausage. (Vic Harradine
Oregon: Red Wine
94
River’s Edge Winery ‘Barrel Select’ Pinot Noir 2016
Elkton, Oregon $31.95 (456764) 15.6% alcohol
This pinot is sourced from hand-harvested fruit and the result of blending the 28 best barrels, out of 140, after 11 months of French and American oak barrel maturation, 36% new. A nice medium-ruby shaded robe with a garnet rim showcases sweet smoke aromas of dry cherry, rose petal and cedar. This is expertly crafted with an impressive alcohol integration, leaving all the space to ripe red cherry and sweet blackberry surfing on a peppery and savoury silky-textured wave of flavours. Bolder than your usual pinot, without losing its varietal identity, it offers a long delectable balanced savoury and peppery finish. This will further evolve but it’s a real treat now alongside slowly-simmered pork osso buco served on a bed of gnocchi. (Louise Boutin)
Argentina: Red Wine
94
Cicchitti ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2012
Mendoza $27.95 (155713) 14.0% alcohol
Don’t be fooled by this 100% malbec from 31-year-old vines, disguised as a mature Italian sangiovese. The family ancestor from Ancona who moved to Argentina at the end of the 19th century continues to influence the Cicchitti winemaking style. The evolved medium-garnet robe along with complex aromas—dry fruit, cedar, all spice, tobacco and balsamic notes are aligned with the maturation approach—12 months in barriques and 18 months in bottle. This full-bodied beauty with fine-grained tannin, delights the palate with date, dry fig, baking spice, savoury dry herb flavours and a balsamic reduction note trailing into the dry, never-ending finish. Aerate/decant one hour and pour now to 2024 with a slow-cooked, beef pot-roast and save some for after-dinner sipping. (Louise Boutin)
France: White Wine
• The following 2018 Domaine Agnés et Didier Dauvissat Petit Chablis was sourced from estate vineyards with rocky, fossil-rich and limestone-streaked soils.
93
Domaine Agnés et Didier Dauvissat Petit Chablis 2018
AOC Petit Chablis, France $26.95 (18675) 13.0% alcohol
This is the most expressive Chablis I’ve tasted—it leaps from the glass with alluring aromas of caramel, poached pear and wisps of minerality before dazzling the palate with a myriad of delicious flavours with baked apple and ripe pear juxtaposed and deftly balanced with a racy rendition of lemon pie filling and a boatload of lip-smacking, mouth-watering tang and pizzazz that runs from the first drop to the final stop. Pour this value-laden gem with mussels steamed in white wine, garlic and leeks or try breaded and grilled calamari. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
• ‘An 806’ is a reference to the year in which Château de Peyrepertuse was traced back. Its citadels are still dominating the vineyard where this GSM grape blend was sourced. The syrah portion goes through carbonic maceration and the blend is matured in French oak for eight months plus a few additional months of bottle ageing before release.
89
Gérard Bertrand ‘An 806’ Corbières 2018
AOP Corbières $17.95 (394288) 14.5% alcohol
This hand-harvested blend of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre shows-up with fresh aromas of blackberry compote, strawberry, pepper and dry bush. Medium-full-bodied on the palate, it carries flavours of black plum, mocha and tobacco notes enveloped in fine grippy tannin. The alcohol is well integrated and the finish and aftertaste are defined with nice tang and an herbaceous flair. Aerate/decant one hour and pour alongside juicy flank steak and grilled mixed bell peppers. (Louise Boutin)
Upstream in Winecurrent
Vintages Release May, 2021
• The following 2018 Tawse ‘Sketches’ Cabernet-Merlot is a blend of 43% cabernet sauvignon/36% cabernet franc/23% merlot that was sourced from a variety of select Niagara vineyards that matured for 14 months in French oak.
91
Tawse ‘Sketches’ Cabernet - Merlot 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (130252) 12.5% alcohol
Red cherry, bell pepper, mixed berry and black peppercorn aromas mingle together harmoniously in this pretty red blend. It flows easily on the palate with fresh crunchy red fruit flavours coupled with dark cherry and a hint of jalapeno. This is medium-bodied with medium tannin structure and the perfect partner to juicy flank steak with grilled bell peppers or gourmet red sauce pizza. (Louise Boutin)
Vintages Release: January 8, 2022
• The following 2019 Sidewood ‘Stablemate’ Pinot Noir was sourced from hand-harvested fruit from the estate Oakbank Vineyard and is a selected blend of Oberlin, 777, MV6 and Abel pinot noir clones. Grapes were chilled for 24 hours pre-fermentation and then separated by clonal variety and fermented separately. There were whole-bunch and non, whole-bunch batches fermented by native yeasts with approximately 30% whole bunch in the final blend. It was then matured in French oak barrels for 10 months before a careful barrel selection was made for the final blend.
92
Sidewood ‘Stablemate’ Pinot Noir 2019
GI Adelaide Hills, Australia $18.95 (20878) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of red berry fruit—currants, strawberry—and piquant spice abound on the nose intertwined with mulberry and black plum. It’s medium-bodied with creamy smooth mouthfeel and oodles of lip-smacking tang and crunchy red fruit palate flavours—passionfruit and pie cherry. It finishes in a blaze with the finish and aftertaste revealing a lovely dollop of cherry cordial and a hint of vanilla and spice. Pour with your favourite meat pie, a rich, beef stew or a simple meatloaf. This punches well over its price tag. Pick up a few and drink into 2023. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: TBD
• The following 2020 Labouré-Roi ‘Le Beaunois’ Chablis is sourced from 100% hand-harvested chardonnay. The ‘Le Beaunois’ is what Chablis winemakers call the chardonnay grape. Chardonnay yields are approximately 50 hl/ha.
90
Labouré-Roi ‘Le Beaunois’ Chablis 2020
AOC Chablis, France $24.95 12.5% alcohol
Orchard fruit aromas—apple pear and yellow plum—interweave with notions of flinty minerality and floral notes. It streaks over the palate with a blaze of nerve, verve and pizzazz riding piquant flavours of lemon zest, lime-drizzled tropical fruit and a gorgeous array of minerality and acidity that persists through the finish and aftertaste. This pours well on its own on a warm day and also pours well with steamed mussels in a cream, garlic and leek sauce or Coquilles St. Jacques. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: TBD
• The following 2020 Labouré-Roi Bourgogne Chardonnay was sourced from 100% hand-picked chardonnay yielding approximately 50 hl/ha.
91
Labouré-Roi Bourgogne Chardonnay 2020
AOC Bourgogne, France $20.95 13.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of vanilla, baking spice and pit fruit abound —apricot, peach and Mirabelle plum. It captures the palate with a creamy-smooth river of palate flavours—apple, ripe pear and oodles of tang-infused citrus fruit. It’s medium bodied with great mouthfeel and a clean refreshing finish. The aftertaste layers on notions of minerality and lemon zest. Pour with sushi, roast chicken or pan-seared white fish. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: TBD
• The following 2020 Cave du Marmandais ‘Keep Cool’ Colombard is an accredited Sustainable winery. Fruit was sourced from 100% Colombard grapes that matured for three months in stainless steel vats before bottling.
88
Cave du Marmandais ‘Keep Cool’ Colombard 2020
IGP Comte Tolosan, France $15.95 9.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of floral notes and lemon citrus precede a light-bodied wash of tang-laden acidity riding a laser-like stream of tingling acidity that streaks across the palate riding a wave of tang and mouth-watering palate flavours of Key lime and white grapefruit from twist top to last drop. Pour with prawn ceviche or arugula salad dressed with olive oil and decorated with crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: TBD
• The following 2020 Bodegas Pazo de Villarei Albariño was sourced from 100% Albariño fruit grown in vineyards from 100 to 300 metres above sea level. The grapes were fermented with native yeasts and settled in stainless steel, no oak.
90
Bodegas Pazo de Villarei Albariño 2020
DO Rías Baixas, Spain $16.95 (14054)13.0% alcohol
Voluminous aromas abound—tropical fruit, floral notes, casaba melon and buckwheat honey to the fore. It dishes up a fabulous stream of deftly balanced palate flavours with lemon-lime cordial, mandarin orange and plenty of lip-smacking tang. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with plenty to like about flavour and even more to like about the price-quality ratio. Pour on its own after taking it out of the fridge for twenty minutes before serving. You can also match this with summer salads, a deli platter or charcuterie board. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO (available now in LCBO retail Stores)
• The following 2019 Fantini ‘Casale Vecchio – Lot 23 - Organic’ Montepulciano was sourced from Montepulciano vineyards near the coastal area of Abruzzo. Many on steep slopes gaining extra sunlight while the day-night temperature swings provide deft balance between the flavours and the acidity. Grapes are harvested early October softly de-stemmed and undergo a crushing and cold-soak maceration in stainless steel tanks for four days then fermentation at a controlled 24 to 26 °C for 15 days, Once malo-lactic fermentation takes place the wine then matures for six to seven months in American and French oak.
90
Fantini ‘Casale Vecchio – Lot 23 - Organic’ Montepulciano 2019
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy $9.95 (612788) 13.5% alcohol
Ruby-red hued in the glass, aromas of black raspberry, red cherry and piquant peppery spice abound with the most gentle of swirls. It blankets the palate with a surge of mellow and smooth palate flavours—cassis, bramble berry and notions of ripe and juicy black Bing cherry. This is medium-bodied with satin-smooth mouthfeel, good structure ripe tannin and plenty of pizzazz on the palate, finish and aftertaste. After a two-hour aeration/decant, pour alongside a spicy China Sichuan eggplant with minced pork dish. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Order the following two wines online from this link to 2027 Cellars. If you haven’t noticed, the Provincial rules change often and quickly. Follow online instructions when you place your order. What you order will be shipped to your office, home or restaurant. It’s all very straightforward and you’ll be supporting a family-run Ontario business that makes premium wine—their expertise, heart and soul are all in it and it certainly shows in the following two wines. These two wines both reflect the dazzling 2020 vintage in Ontario.
• The following 2020 2027 Cellars ‘Contrary’ White Blend is sourced from pinot gris and unoaked chardonnay that together, went against what 2027 Cellars stood for—‘premium wines made from a single grape variety’. In 2019 winemaker Kevin Panagapka tried a white blend to see what it would taste like. And the rest, as they say, is history. The 2019 vintage sold out quickly and this will, too.
92
2027 Cellars ‘Contrary’ White Blend 2020
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.00 12.6% alcohol
Pale-yellow hued in the glass, aromas of floral notes, grilled pineapple and honeydew melon leap from this pinot gris and chardonnay blend. It’s medium-plus bodied with creamy smooth mouthfeel and plenty of palate flavours to discover—lemon drop candy, baked apple pie and notions of blood orange to the fore. This is a delightful sipper on its own and pours extremely well with white cream sauce with garlic, sliced and fried-in-butter mushrooms, minced onions and pieces of smoked ham all heated together and poured over al dente-cooked bow-tie pasta. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard-Fox Croft Block’ Gamay Rosé 2020 was hand-harvested then crushed and destemmed and the grapes cold settled for 12 hours before pressing for colour extraction. It was pressed to 600 Litre/Tonne, then racked off ‘juice lees’ after 24-hours cold settling. It was fermented to dry at 12° C for three weeks by a commercial yeast strain and bottled late February 2021.
91
2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard-Fox Croft Block’ Gamay Rosé 2020
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $22.00 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of strawberries, red cherry and mixed spice rip from the glass. It rides a laser-like stream of spicy, tang-infused flavours of strawberry, watermelon and blood orange across the palate persisting through the dry finish and aftertaste. It’s medium weight and full of nerve, verve and pizzazz. Give this a go with freshly shucked oysters with a dot or two of hot sauce, a smidgeon of horseradish and a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
• Order the following three wines by the case for daily office, home or restaurant delivery direct by toll-free phone 1-888-399-1183 from 10 am to 5 pm daily, online from the winery using this link - Rosehall Run - or pick it up from the cellar door on your next visit to the winery 1243 Greer Rd, Wellington, Ontario K0K 3L0 in Prince Edward County – it’s an easy two-hour drive, or less, from the GTA or Ottawa via the 401 Their Take-Away Bottle Shop (no inside access) is still available 7 days a week, 11-5 for those that wish. You may call your orders in, order online or simply walk up and one of their tasting associates will be happy to help - Here’s a map.
• Pét-Nat wine, aka Pétillant Natural vin, aka Sparkling Natural wine. It’s also considered, especially in France, to be an ancient way of making wine, or ‘méthode ancestrale’. The original concept was to make wine with as little human interference—taking out and putting in the least possible—both in the vineyard and in the winery. As an example, this wine is put into the bottle and stoppered before it has finished fermenting from ambient yeast so that the bubbles are now captured in the bottle you have in your hand from its first fermentation; unlike Champagne as it usually has a commercial-yeast, along with a winemaker-induced 2nd fermentation in the bottle you purchase.
• The following 2020 Pét-Nat Sparkling Wine and Cider was sourced from a unique blend of 40% estate-grown muscat ottonel grapes and 60% of apples purchased from a neighbour’s orchard—Cheer Family Farms. This was un-fined, unfiltered and bottled within a month of harvest without preservatives other than natural effervescence from fermentation and is meant to be consumed upon purchase. Don’t dally… only 100 cases produced.
90
Rosehall Run Pét-Nat 2020
Product of Canada $20.00 9.5% alcohol
This unique unfiltered fizzy blend of wine and cider is quite charming on the nose—mandarin, ginger, yellow apple and floral notes. Light-bodied and slightly foamy, it tingles the tongue with flavours of apple, pithy citrus, a note of lychee and mouth-watering minerality. The refreshing acidity keeps all elements in balance and inspires another sip. This trendy, ancestral method, natural bubbly is great as a patio sipper, served with breaded zucchini sticks or with sea salt potato chips. Drink now. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2019 ‘Hungry Point – ‘Estate Grown and Bottled’ Pinot Gris was sourced from a patient Rosehall Run winemaker, Dan Sullivan who barrel fermented this estate-grown fruit then left it on its lees for nine months to smooth out the nerve and verve of Hungry Point fruit from the 2019 vintage. This is to be released in summer of 2021.
92
Rosehall Run ‘Estate Grown and Bottled - Hungry Point’ Pinot Gris 2019
VQA Prince Edward County $28.00 12.5% alcohol
This is a lovely dry pinot gris displaying pale golden hues and attractive aromas—tropical fruit, fennel, lemon lozenge and a crushed stone mineral character. Nine months of lees contact carefully tendered, achieved a round and enveloping mouthfeel offering flavours of honeyed pear and lemon curd joined with chalky mineral texture adding weight and complexity to this medium-bodied beauty. Try with lemon and garlic steamed mussels. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2018 Rosehall Run ‘JCR – Rosehall Vineyard – Estate Grown & Bottled’ Chardonnay showcases the soil and vines from Rosehall’s North Block in Prince Edward County. Although matured 17 months in 500 L French oak puncheons, none were new—they all previously held past vintages of this wine. The vines were planted in 2001 and 2002 from a variety of Dijon-numbered clones—76, 95 and 96.
95
Rosehall Run ‘JCR – Rosehall Vineyard – Estate Grown & Bottled’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Prince Edward County $36.00 13.0% alcohol
Baked apple with flecks of steely/mineral notes and caramel aromas precede bountiful mouthfuls of tang-laden flavour with sharp spice, passion fruit and tart lemon curd to the fore and plenty of nerve and verve throughout making it redolent of top-drawer Chablis. This showcases good complexity and depth, persistent purity of fruit and subtle nuances of elegance and excellence. Pour alongside escargot served in a mushroom cap or Tarragon chicken. Winemaker extraordinaire, Dan Sullivan, waved his magic wand over this phenomenal gem… Bravo. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wine from Tawse Winery can be purchased by the bottle(s) case (s) for home, office or restaurant delivery online at Tawse Winery, by Email @ This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or by phone +1 905 562 9500 or for pick up by bottle(s) or case(s) directly at the winery 3955 Cherry Ave, Vineland ON. They are open 7 days a week, 11am-5pm – Due to lockdown, there is Curbside Pickup Only - Here’s a map.
• The following 2018 Tawse ‘Quarry Road’ Pinot Noir was sourced from the Quarry Road estate vineyard. It matured for 14 months in French oak. It will be released at the winery late May or June, 2021.
91
Tawse Quarry Road Pinot Noir 2018
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.95 (307686) 13.0% alcohol
Expect a classic pale-ruby colour with aromas of crunchy red fruit, beetroot and a pretty floral note in the backdrop. A softly textured tart and juicy stream of sour cherry, cranberry and earthy flavours delights the palate before showing a nice grip of tannin mid-way through adding structure and character to this medium-light bodied elegant pinot. Aged 14 months in French oak, it adds a fine layer of mixed spices to the tart and dry finish. Pour with duck confit for a delightful pairing. (Louise Boutin)
LCBO ‘Limited Time Offers’ – March 29 to April 25, 2021
Regardless of the vintage you purchase from the LCBO, you’ll receive the discount shown for each bottle of wine reviewed below that’s purchased March 29 to April 25, 2021.
White Wine
• The following two white wines receive a $3.00 discount on each bottle purchased March 29 to April 25, 202.
• There’s very good value in the following premium Beringer Napa chardonnay. Grapes sourced from multiple vineyard parcels were fermented in 25% stainless steel and 75% French oak followed by eight months barrel aging before bottling.
89
Beringer Vineyards Napa Valley Chardonnay
Napa Valley (84988) $25.95 14.1% alcohol
The nose leads with lemon, lime zest and red apple adorned with a pleasant floral note, hints of spice and toast. Dry and medium bodied with balancing acidity, the generous mouthfeel transports flavours of Meyer lemon, pear and Gala apple through the medium-long finish before a mineral note appears on the aftertaste. Sip on its own or alongside simply-prepared roast chicken. (Lisa Isabelle)
• The following Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Chardonnay is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select LCBO stores.
91
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Chardonnay
VQA Short Hills Bench $21.95 (268342) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of baking spice, apple, pear and wisps of citrus capture the essence of this fabulous chardonnay. It bathes the palate with flavours of green apple, ripe pear and lemon curd adorned with racy tang. This is medium bodied with good mouthfeel and a lingering, juicy finish and aftertaste. It showcases mixed spice, deft balance, persistent purity of fruit and a boatload of charm. Pour with roast chicken or crown roast of pork. (Vic Harradine)
• The following eight white wines receive a $2.00 discount on each bottle purchased March 29 to April 25, 2021.
• The following ‘2018 Flat Rock Cellars ‘Twisted’ is the #1 selling white wine in LCBO’s ‘Vintages Essentials’ category. This vintage, the grape blend is 69% riesling/17% gewürztraminer/14% chardonnay.
91
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Twisted – White’
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (1578) 11.0% alcohol
There are aromas of green apple, ripe pear with wisps of lychee fruit and minerality on the nose of this lovely white blend. On the palate it’s medium bodied and generously textured with flavours galore—lime cordial, ripe pineapple, apple and scads of tangy pizzazz. It’s a tad off-dry and quite nicely balanced with complexity and persistent purity of fruit. The finish is crisp and refreshing with each sip bringing you back for more. There’s enough interest here to drink on its own, but a pairing with spicy chicken masala or General Tso’s chicken are inspired choices. (Vic Harradine)
90
Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (35386) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of gooseberry, canned peas and piquant spices/herbs jump from the glass. It’s racy and tang-laden showcasing quintessential Marlborough flavours with passion fruit, citrus, gooseberry and tropical fruit interwoven on the palate persisting through the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Mid weight with good mouth feel, pour alongside olive-oiled mesclun under crumbled chèvre or sea food—mussels, fish or calamari. (Vic Harradine)
• The following J. Lohr ‘Riverstone is a Vintages Essentials wines always available in select LCBO stores.
90
J. Lohr ‘Riverstone Chardonnay
Arroyo Seco, Monterey County, California $19.95 (258699) 14.0% alcohol
There’s excellent value here. It opens with baking spice, ripe red apple and vanilla aromas. A medium-full bodied, well-textured stream of piquant spice and lemon zest captures the palate persisting through the finish and aftertaste along with notions of grilled pineapple and tang laden white grapefruit persisting through the finish and aftertaste. Pour with lemon chicken or pan-seared fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
88
La Crema Chardonnay
Sonoma Coast $29.95 (962886) 13.5% alcohol
This is an elegant chardonnay with subtle oak aromas on the nose combined with notes of apple and minerality. It’s medium-full bodied with zesty acidity delivering green apple and citrus flavours on the palate. The finish is tangy and underlined with clean minerality. This will evolve nicely in the cellar for a few years, and can be enjoyed with shrimp parmesan pasta. (Dave Isaacs)
90
Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Chardonnay
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (350900) 12.5% alcohol
Powerful aromas of toasty oak and spice on the nose precede a balanced and beautiful flow of sweet-tinged Golden Delicious apple, ripe pear and Mirabelle plum nicely juxtaposed with a glorious rush of racy lemon acidity on the back palate and persisting through the long finish—clean, crisp and refreshing. This is medium-full bodied with good texture and delivers a price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. Pour with roast bird and all the extras. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Susana Balbo ‘Crios’ Torrontés is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores. This wine was sourced from hand-harvested 100% Torrontés fruit from Salta and Uco Valley in Mendoza at an elevation of 1700 meters above sea level. It was fermented at a maximum of 13 °C and left on its lees for three months in oak to enhance structure in the wine. Susana Balbo is one of the planet’s premier wine makers. This white gem punches well above its price.
91
Susana Balbo ‘Crios’ Torrontés
Cafayate Valley, Salta, Valle de Uco, Argentina $14.95 (1834) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of rosewater, piquant spice and tropical fruit provide segue to a crisp, clean and refreshing wash of tang-infused flavour with lemon curd, white grapefruit and hints of blood orange and mineral notes to the fore. It’s medium bodied with firm mouthfeel and plenty of acidity and pizzazz from twist top to last drop. Pour on its own over the next 12 or so months or alongside pan-seared fish or grilled calamari, both under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
91
Tawse ‘Quarry Road Vineyard’ Riesling
VQA Vinemount Ridge $24.95 (198853) 10.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of lemon rind, pink grapefruit and nectarine with traces of honeysuckle, ginger and this grape’s characteristic petrol aroma open this well-balanced riesling. Sweet citrus flavours—tangerine and lemon-lime—merge with ripe peach and a mineral note on the palate. Medium sweet, balanced with vibrant acidity, it delivers a creamy, mouth-coating texture and a long, flavourful finish. Enjoy with a spicy chicken curry. (Lisa Isabelle)
93
Vineland Estates ‘Elevation - St. Urban Vineyard’ Riesling
VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (38117) 9.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of lemony citrus, buckwheat honey and notions of petrol precede a dazzling off-dry surge of lemon-lime cordial, a bowl of tropical fruit—pineapple, mango, rambutan—along with oodles of tangy pizzazz persisting from the first drop through the palate to the delicious, balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. This is quite special. Pour on its own or with spicy Asian dishes—General Tso’s chicken, moo shu pork or tikka masala. Drink now to 2028. (Vic Harradine)
Red Wine
• The following two red wines are $5.00 per bottle off the price shown below for each bottle purchased March 29 to April 25, 2021.
95
Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi ‘Castelgiocondo’ Brunello di Montalcino
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino, Italy $53.95 (650432) 14.5% alcohol
This showcases purity of fruit, a deft tang/fruit balance and plenty of years ahead to mature—pop corks now, after a three-hour aeration/decant, or 2019 to 2026. Alluring, sexy aromas of baking spice, smoky notes, berry fruit, floral and cedar abound. A supple flow of full-flavoured ambrosia envelops the palate with crunchy red fruit—pomegranate and cranberry—interlaced with black currant, dark plum, spice and juicy Bing cherry. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouthfeel and a lingering finish underpinned by still-evolving ripe tannin. (Vic Harradine)
91
Beringer ‘Knights Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon
Knights Valley, California $44.95 (352583) 14.8% alcohol
This blend of predominantly cabernet sauvignon with a splash of cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot, matured 16 months in French oak, 30% new. Dark cherry, plum compote, chipotle, baking spice and violet aromas showcase the complex nose. Silky soft on palate entry with flavours of ripe black cherry, clove and vanilla, it shows a firmer profile mid palate with tight tannin and flavours of cocoa powder, freshly cracked black peppercorn and a wisp of red plum acidity through the finish and aftertaste. This is full-bodied with cellaring potential; enjoy now to 2024 with juicy rare prime rib after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Louise Boutin)
• The following three red wines are $3.00 per bottle off the price shown below from March 29 to April 25, 2021.
88
Concha y Toro ‘Winemaker’s Lot 148’ Carmenère
Rapel Valley, Chile $18.95 (30957) 14.0% alcohol
This is good value and it’s rich, ripe and rarin’ to go now. A beautifully balanced river of juicy black Bing cherry and black plum interweave with racy pomegranate and herbal notes on the creamy smooth palate along with mixed spice and mocha. It’s a bit funky on the nose with some bell pepper and strong herbal notes, but that melts away and you’re left with a creamy-smooth, hedonistic offering. It pours and pairs well with burgers, red pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)
91
Hidden Bench Estate ‘Organic’ Pinot Noir
VQA Beamsville Bench $34.95 (274753) 12.7% alcohol
A subdued nose of red berry fruit and spice provide segue for a gorgeous mouthful of deftly balanced racy tang—pie cherry and red currant—and ripe juicy fruit—black plum and dark Bing cherry. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and a delectable lingering finish of mixed spice with wisps of toasty oak and soft tannin. Pour this organic gem with rack of lamb, roast turkey or crown roast of pork. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wine from Rocca delle Macie is a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO retail stores.
• The ‘Classico’ on the wine label in the following Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico below alerts you this wine is from the heartland and original homeland of Chianti with ‘Chianti Classico’ considered the premium growing and winemaking sub-zone of the seven sub-zones in the now, quite large Chianti region in Tuscany.
90
Rocca delle Macie ‘Famiglia Zingarelli’ Chianti Classico
DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $18.95 (741769) 13.5% alcohol
Cedar, floral notes and mixed field berry fruit aromas precede a racy line of red currant and pie cherry palate flavours adorned with savory herbs and a lick of red licorice and hints of mocha. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and a lengthy dry, mouth-watering finish. Give this a go with pasta Bolognese or meat-laden lasagna. (Vic Harradine)
• The following nine red wines are $2.00 per bottle off the price shown below from March 29 to April 25, 2021.
89
13th Street Gamay Noir
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (177824) 13.0% alcohol
Smoke, spice and gamy notes roll from this juicy, lively, rustic gamay. The palate’s treated to a medium-bodied, nicely textured mouthful of red and dark berry fruit robed in excellent racy acidity along with mixed spice and bacon notes persisting through the dry finish. For full enjoyment, aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)
90
Dandelion Vineyards ‘Lionheart of the Barossa’ Shiraz
Barossa, Australia $21.95 (167189) 14.5 % alcohol
Produced from old-vine shiraz, many over 100 years of age, this value-laden beauty spent 18 months in French oak barrel and was left unfiltered before bottling. Abundant dark fruit aromas—blackberry, cassis and black currant—sprinkled with anise and baking spices rise easily from the glass. Dry, full bodied with velvety tannin, succulent dark fruit flavours dominate the palate adorned with spice and earthy notes while a note of mint permeates the long finish. Pair with herb-encrusted rack of lamb. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Kaiken ‘Selección Especial’ Malbec
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $15.95 (58339) 14.0% alcohol
High-spirited aromas of black pepper, black plum compote and mixed spice provide segue for a tang-laden flow of red currant, black cherry and sprigs of savoury herbs blanketing the palate and persisting through the dry, warm finish. This is medium-plus bodied with good texture and an underpinning of tannin for structure and interest and framed by excellent acidity. Pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden red pizza. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Bodegas Lan Crianza is a Vintages Essentials wine always found in select LCBO stores. It’s also an inexpensive way to taste what will be a $30 or $40 wine when released from the winery some five or more years from now as a ‘Reserva’ or a ‘Gran Reserva’ wine.
92
Bodegas Lan Crianza
DOCa Rioja, Spain $16.95 (166538) 13.5% alcohol
Sexy aromas of exotic spice and incense interweave with soft, ripe, dark berry fruit and flecks of mocha. It bathes the palate with a rich and balanced wash of black raspberry and dark cherry flavours underpinned by ripe chalky tannin and framed by excellent acidity and purity of fruit. It’s medium-plus bodied with deft balance and a lengthy finish. Pour on its own, after a two-hour aeration/decant or alongside prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)
• The trademark for the following Meiomi Pinot Noir is—regardless of vintage—‘it doesn’t taste much like Pinot Noir’; and this turns some people away. If you expect a pinot noir to taste like pinot noir, the Meiomi may not be for you. However, if you like rich, jammy red wines and don’t care much if it’s zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon or pinot noir, you will want to give the following serious consideration.
88
Meiomi Pinot Noir
Monterey/Santa Barbara/Sonoma, California $21.95 (130138) 13.7% alcohol
Ripe, black and red fruit and espresso roast aromas swirl from this medium-plus bodied, full-Monty, well-textured red. It envelops the palate with a river of sweet jammy flavours—black currant, ripe mulberry and Bing cherry—intertwined with kirsch liqueur, sweet vanilla and toasty/oaky bits. Palate flavours persist through the mocha-laden finish and aftertaste with a slight bit of tang. Pour with grilled pork back ribs brushed with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
89
Monte Zovo ‘Sa’ Solin’ Ripasso Valpolicella 2014
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso, Italy $19.95 (650713) 14.0% alcohol
Campfire aromas mingle with gamy notes and dark berry fruit on the nose of this rich, ripe Ripasso. A surge of sweet ripe fruit and toasty/oaky notes blanket the palate adorned with spice, still-evolving tannin and crunchy red fruit—cranberry, currant and raspberry. It finishes dry with good tang and acidity. Paired and poured well with manicotti or pasta puttanesca sauce with garlic toast. (Vic Harradine)
88
Penfolds ‘Koonunga Hill’ Shiraz – Cabernet
South Australia $19.95 (285544) 13.5% alcohol
This is rich and perfumed on the nose releasing dark dusty aromas of cherry, mint and mixed dark berry fruit. On the palate there’s a delicious wave of flavour with mouth-coating succulent Bing cherry mingling with ripe mulberry and lip-smacking tart cranberry. It finishes balanced, lingering and delicious. Leaving little to be desired, it’s full value, and then some. (Vic Harradine)
88
Rodney Strong ‘Sonoma County’ Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma County $27.95 (226944) 13.5% alcohol
Savoury herbs and red berry fruit aromas precede medium-plus bodied, well-textured mouthfuls of black and red cherry/berry flavours adorned with grilled savoury herbs and charred toast. It’s fruit-filled and pours well with grilled rack of lamb or grilled striploin after a one- or two-hour aeration/decant. As California cab goes, this is certainly attractively priced. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Tawse ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. This is a blend from hand-harvested fruit from select vineyards across the Niagara wine region matured 14 months in French oak barrels before bottling and release.
90
Tawse ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 (130989) 13.0% alcohol
A lightly-hued red in the glass, it offers delicate aromas of piquant spice, cedar and raspberry on the nose. It streaks over the palate with tart tang and acidity borne of crunchy red fruit flavours—currant, pie cherry and passionfruit—along with wisps of sharp spice. I enjoyed the tart acidity and am confident that with a pasta in tomato sauce, red pizza or lasagne pairing, most others will. (Vic Harradine)
Dessert Wines
• You will receive a $5.00 discount per bottle for the following two wines off the price shown below in each of the reviews from March 29 to April 5, 2021.
89
Inniskillin Vidal Icewine
VQA Ontario $49.95 (388306) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol
This vidal icewine from Niagara expresses itself without reservation starting with lifted aromas of apricot, lemon and earthy notes. It blankets the palate with a textured wash of apricot tart, lime-soaked guava and orange marmalade. Lemon zest and grilled pineapple provide semblance balance on the finish and aftertaste. Serve well chilled on its own or paired with fruit flan or blue cheese. (Vic Harradine)
88
Jackson-Triggs ‘Reserve’ Vidal Icewine
VQA Ontario $39.95 (389411) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol
Mango and ripe yellow peach aromas unleash a gusher of sweet, honeyed flavour on the palate with honey-drizzled peach pie and candied apricot coating the palate and persisting through the finish. It’s full bodied and generously textured delivering a sticky, sweet aftertaste. Pour with quality blue cheese or fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers and stay safe; Lisa, Louise, Dave, Vic