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January 20, 2007 Release

The January 20 Vintages release starts with a selection of South African wines, many of which are excellent quality and value.

South Africa Feature

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2002
WO Western Region $16.95 (561142)
This reveals itself with a beguiling involved and lifted nose of tar and black licorice. The flavour profile shows robust dollops of spicy oak, savoury cherry, black currant and sweet vanilla. The texture is creamy smooth with ripe tannin and moderating tang, all providing deft balance and a wonderful tasting experience. A long sweet fruit-forward finish is fruit-forward and rewarding. Good now to 2012 - snag a half dozen or so. (VH)

**** drink now
Beaumont Shiraz 2003
WO Walker Bay $25.95 (714303)
Spiced black fruit and mocha aromas blast from the glass of this medium-bodied blend. Expect a mélange of flavours that showcases bramble berry, coffee and bacon. Satin smooth in texture, there is barely a hint of tannin and tang. This was fashioned for early drinking and would be a wonderful accompaniment to osso bucco and a Portobello mushroom risotto. (VH)

**** drink now
Delheim Shiraz 2003
WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $19.95 (959080)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent)

Tar and floral notes dominate the aromas of this 100% Shiraz while the flavours are rich and redolent of spiced black plums and Bing cherry. Lots going on in this medium to full-bodied red with lashings of oak, a balancing spine of acidity and a lengthy peppery finish that is fruit forward and sweet. Try now to 2011 with grilled red meats. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Hill & Dale Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2003
WO Stellenbosch $12.95 (595702)
Smoky, tarry aromatics and flavours dominate this medium-bodied blend. Cherry compote and spice box flavours also intermingle nicely with the plush texture and touch of zesty tang. An honest wine at a good price point that would pour well with pizza or burgers. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Groot Constantia Merlot 2004
WO Constantia $24.95 (007450)
Red licorice and plum aromatics curl from the glass of this light to medium-bodied red. It has great balance and offers smooth mellow flavours of black plum and cigar box that are nicely underpinned with a zesty tang and toasty notes. Try with beef daube. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Môreson Pinotage 2004
WO Coastal Region $17.95 (009241)
A stunning new-style Pinotage that delivers layers of complex, fine fruit. Look for rich plum and dark berries, along with dried fruit, chocolate, and hints of toasty oak. This is not your father's Pinotage, but a beautifully made example that's silky smooth in texture and rich in structure. It's a real bargain at this price. Pair it with grilled red meats. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Frog Hill Rana 2005
WO Western Cape $15.95 (008987)
An exotic nose of creosote, brioche and juicy black berry greet the lucky imbiber of this rich and complex offering. A cornucopia of sweet (14% alcohol) fruit flavours - cherry, raspberry and assorted red and black berry - are dominant throughout. There are perceptible, but acceptable tannins to give structure while the finish is lengthy and layers on herb and spice highlights. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Eikendal Semillon 2005
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (017053)
An intriguing aromatic profile of smoke, honey and floral notes drift from the glass of this gorgeous medium to full-textured white. The gloriously creamy mouth feel is enhanced by an almost perfect balance of sweet, exotic up-front fruit flavours of pomegranate and spice-infused apple and tangy citrus. The finish is lengthy and luxurious adding hints of honeysuckle and key lime. An outstanding wine; a top producer. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Whalehaven Viognier/Chardonnay 2006
WO Western Cape $18.95 (017095)
This opens with a ripper of a nose offering sweet tropical fruit then motors into the palate with oodles more of the same with an emphasis on citrus and pineapple. It provides an amazing sensation with its sweet and tangy flavours, silky texture and luxurious warm (14.5% alcohol) finish. Outstanding on its own, pours well alongside chicken Kiev. (VH)

**** drink now
Delheim Pinotage Rosé 2006
WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $12.95 (721670)
It's so good to see a rosé in winter-just the sort of thing to remind you that the cold, grey days will pass. And besides, rosé is perfect for so many dishes that are eaten all year round. This pale pink rosé is dry with attractive aromas and flavours of red berries (strawberries, cranberries) and red plums. It's medium bodied and crisp-textured and goes well with baked ham. Or just kick back and sip it for simple pleasure. (RP)

Canada: red

**** drink now
Angels Gate Cabernet Franc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (027433)
A well-made Cabernet Franc that delivers complex fruit flavours like black cherry, blackberries, and black pepper, with a hint of bell pepper and cedar. The fruit is solid throughout this medium-bodied wine, and you can pair it successfully with a roast veal chop with garlic mash. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Malivoire Pinot Noir 2004
$27.95 (996777)
Burgundy-like in appearance and style; light red with some orange characteristics, exhibiting elegance and charm. An aromatic profile of smoke, oak and Montmorency cherry is a lovely segue to this light to medium-bodied red. A ribbon of cherry and cranberry flavours runs throughout while a dollop of zest and drying tannins provide structure, interest and enjoyment. A mighty fine Pinot from a winemaker whose first name is Shiraz. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs Proprietors' Grand Reserve Meritage 2004
VQA Okanagan Valley $20.95 (643460)
Spice, toast and oak drift from the glass of this medium-bodied multi-blend. The predominance (50%) of the ripe, juicy Merlot shines through in the dark plum and spice box flavours, smooth mellow texture and barely perceptible tannins or acidity. This offers judicious use of oak, great balance and a spicy finish. Would be the perfect foil to a mess of smoked then bar b qued ribs. (VH)

USA: red

***1/2 drink now
Ironstone Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Sierra Foothills $17.95 (537597)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a well-made, straightforward medium-weight Cabernet that delivers quality and value. Expect to enjoy ripe dark fruit flavours with good complexity, good balance and soft tannins. It finishes well and will pair nicely with a broad range of well-flavoured red meat dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Ironstone Vineyards Merlot 2003
Lodi $16.95 (704353)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A Merlot for food. This is a nice change from the heavy, fruity Merlots that clog your taste buds and render food tasteless. Look for bight, clear fruit here, with good complexity and nice balance. It has enough weight to handle a medium-rare steak and you'll taste every mouthful. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sebasiani Pinot Noir 2005
Sonoma Coast $24.95 (014233)
This is a delicious, well-made Pinot Noir from a region that produces notable Pinots. The fruit is rich and ripe and full of layered cherry with scattered notes of spice and a hint of coffee and earthiness. Solid and complex right through, it's a great partner to a grilled rack of lamb. (RP)

Argentina: red

***** drink now two glasses
Finca Flichman Expresiones Reserve Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Mendoza $15.95 (017111)
This blend - 60% Shiraz, 40% Cab., packs an incredible punch and has it all, complexity, richness and delicate balance. It opens with a perfumed nose of black ripe juicy berry fruit, currant and nuances of spice - cloves and nutmeg. Flavours of bramble berry, creosote and kirsch drench the palate. The monumental finish adds complexity and structure with ripe tannins, moderating acidity and warm savoury notes. At this price point, go for the gusto with a multiple purchase, drinking now to 2010. (VH)

Australia: red

**** drink or cellar
Cuttaway Hill Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Southern Highlands, New South Wales $14.95 (004945)
One of those big Aussie crowd-pleasers with rich, ripe, jammy up-front fruit that coats and dazzles the palate and senses. You will experience toasty oak aromas and flavours, as well as ripe, juicy black cherry and black currant flavours in this smooth, round and ready medium-textured fruit bomb. Clean and fruity with a moderate finish, this is very well-priced. Enjoy now to 2011 (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Grant Burge Filsell Shiraz 2004
Barossa, South Australia $29.95 (987453)
Tantalizing aromas oak, spice and black licorice waft from the glass of this complex Shiraz. Gorgeous and robust flavours of black juicy Bing cherry, tar and black plum attack in waves while a generous dollop of tang balances it deftly, keeping it safe from jammy. Enough ripe fleshy tannin and oomph to keep this at optimum drinking now to 2014. One of those Wow! wines with elegant charm and structure. Will be divine poured alongside bar b qued backstrap of lamb. (VH)

**** drink now
Nepenthe Gum Bank Merlot 2004
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $13.95 (020701)
Aromas of toasty oak and spice waft off the glass of this medium-bodied gem from a prime Aussie wine region. Lip-smacking flavours of Montmorency cherry and pomegranate abound in this exceptionally tangy offering. The finish is moderate in length and complex, expect more sour cherry plus tarry and spiced black plum notes. This would pair well with red meat; why not try a tenderloin of kangaroo, now available in Canada, done rare to medium rare as it has very little marbling. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
South Australia $19.95 (634113)
This is a real delight to drink, and you can enjoy it now and over the next two years or so. It's characterized by lovely sweet fruit that has a very decent level of complexity, a smooth texture, and medium tannins. Just well made, as you expect from Penfolds, and it pairs so well with grilled lamb chops. (RP)

New Zealand: white

****1/2 drink now
Babich Black Label Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (009142)
An all-star producer that never fails to impress, this continues on in that tradition. Perfumed aromas of nettles, freshly-mowed grass and floral nuances form the segue to this plush, medium-textured beauty. Inviting flavours of ripe peach and nectarine intermingle with lemon zest. This was fashioned for restaurants in NZ. It finishes clean and zesty and will be perfect with another 4 or 5 months of bottle age, just in time for spring and summer days with mesculan salad under grilled and crumbled chèvre. (VH)

France: white

****1/2 drink now
Pfaffenheim Pinot Gris Cuvée Rabelais 2005
AOC Alsace $19.95 (999342)
You are first drawn in by the medium-gold colour and lifted involved nose of apple compote, toast and floral aromas from this gorgeous white from a well-respected co-operative. The creamy texture is absolutely glorious and is entwined with robust flavours of apple pie spice plus ripe stone fruit. The lengthy finish exhibits a touch of residual sugar and balancing tang. Pair to spicy Asian cuisine with confidence. (VH)

France: red

***1/2 drink now
Pujol Côtes du Roussillon 2001
AOC Côtes du Roussillon $16.95 (013516)
A well-constructed, dry red that delivers good, sweet dark fruit and berry flavours with a touch of spice and herbs. It has medium tannins and is ready for drinking now and over the next year, so save some for the barbecue. This is certified organic. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Domaine Courbis St-Joseph 2003
AOC St-Joseph $24.95 (007914)
For my money, St-Joseph turns out some of the most delicious Rhône wines, and this is enriched by the torrid conditions of 2003. Look for hugely concentrated flavour that retain all the structure you expect in a wine of this pedigree. It's still dense and very tannic and I'd hold this for another two years, then drink it over the next three or four. Pair it with full-flavoured red meat dishes. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Perrin "Nature" Côtes-du-Rhône 2004
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $9.95 (010363) for 375ml and $16.95 (948059) for 750ml
This is a very well-priced Côtes-du-Rhône that shows what the region can do at a very affordable price. It has big texture, intense dark fruit (plum, cherry) flavours with accents of black pepper and spice, and a fine seam of sweet fruit at the centre. The tannins are pretty firm and this will show best in a couple of years. But if you must drink it soon, pair it with red meat grilled medium-rare. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Domaine Capmartin "Cuvée du Couvent" Madiran 2002
AOC Madiran $16.95 (010736)
This is terrific value and great as an inexpensive addition to your cellar. Let it rest for three year so that the fruit has a fighting chance against the tannins, and you'll be rewarded with an exceptional drop. You can smell and taste the complexity now, but give it time and a hunk of grilled red meat or Portobello mushrooms, and you'll be in gastro-heaven. (RP)

Italy: white

**** drink now
Terra d'Aligi Pecorino 2005
IGT Terre di Chieti $16.95 (019554)
Mineral, earthy and steely aromas a-plenty here in this fully-textured white. Deft balance and oodles of ripe sweet fruit - peach and mango to the fore - mark this as a wonderful quaffing wine and versatile enough to handle lightly-herbed and spiced chicken and veal dishes. Very good value here. (VH)

**** drink now
A. Mano Primitivo 2003
IGT Puglia $15.95 (972588)
Many wine-lovers eagerly await each vintage of this top value red. Smoke and oak drift off the glass of this medium to full-bodied sweet (14% alcohol) flavourful, bramble berry spiced cherry and plum, gem. It is rich and complex with good tang and ripe soft tannins. The lengthy finish sports Bing cherry and spice box flavours. Stock up. (VH)

Italy: red

**** drink or cellar
Allegrini La Grola 2003
IGT Veronese $26.95 (476598)
Strawberry and toasty aromas open up this sweet and juicy fruit bomb hailing from the searing hot '03 vintage. A lovely mouth feel showcases the black ripe cherry fruit that is nicely supported by interesting tarry and black licorice notes on the luxurious finish. This is good to go now to 2010 on its own or with veal shank. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Tenuta S. Anna Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
DOC Lison-Pramaggiore $17.95 (617423)
Lifted plum and floral notes form the perfumed nose of this creamy smooth, medium-textured Cab. The flavours are a cornucopia of red fruit - cherry, plum and currant. Has quite a lengthy finish and, surprisingly barely perceptible tannins. Drink on its own, now to 2011 or pour with marinated and grilled rare flank steak. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Tommasi Vigneto Rafael Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2004
DOC Veneto $17.95 (023259)
This is a gorgeous wine from a producer that has gained world-wide and much-deserved recognition for fine wines at good value. This gorgeous offering begins with aromas redolent of Bing cherry and black raspberry. The flavour profile has cherry to the fore, ably supported by oodles of tangy zest and a ripe tannin structure. This meaty red best served with lasagna or pasta in a rich tomato sauce. (VH)

Portugal: red

**** drink now
Quinta de Cabriz Reserva 2003
DOC Dão $16.95 (21410)
Black and brooding in the glass, this is from a respected wine region that is gaining recognition for its rich and robust reds. Spice and sweet berry aromas waft from the glass of this medium-bodied blend. Bramble berry and spice come to the fore in the flavour profile on the palate, as well as on the lengthy finish which brushes on moderating tang. Serve proudly alongside beef or lamb daube and garlic and herbed roasted potatoes. (VH)

Upstream in Vintages

Look for these wines in forthcoming releases:

March 3 2007

***** drink or cellar
Finca Flichman Paisaje de Barrancas 2002
Argentina - Mendoza $16.95 (017129)

This is a super wine at a remarkable price. A blend of 70% Syrah, 25% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, it delivers concentrated and focused flavours of black berries and plums with loads of complexity. Look for pepper and spices, mint and coffee, but you'll track even more as the wine evolves in your glass. It's one of those wines that's kaleidoscopic in its complexity. The tannins are still firm, so it's better held for a year or two. Drink it as you would in Argentina, with roasted or grilled red meats. (RP)

New in LCBO
Australia

***1/2 drink now
Black Opal Chardonnay 2005
South Eastern Australia $13.95 (309450)
Not much going in the aromas, but it comes to life on the palate. There you'll find solid fruit flavours (tropical fruit, pear and some toasty vanilla notes), all wrapped in a medium body with good crisp, food-friendly texture. Good with a wide range of chicken and pork dishes. (RP)

*** drink now
Black Swan Vineyards Shiraz 2004
South Eastern Australia $13.00 (610709)
Spiced berry and plum aromas open up this light-bodied red. Expect cherry compote, crushed cranberry and strawberry jam flavours with imperceptible tannins on the palate and finish. Try this on its own, slightly chilled or alongside a lightly-seasoned chicken dish. (VH)

California

***1/2 drink now
Ernest and Julio Gallo "Sierra Valley" Chardonnay 2005
California $9.95 (235598)
This is a good price for a pretty nice Chardonnay-one of the best in this price range. You get good complexity in the aromas and flavours (tropical fruit, pear, peach, citrus, toasty vanilla), good balance and dry texture. A general-purpose Chardonnay in the best sense of the term. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Baron Herzog Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
California $16.15 (89856)
This Kosher red opens with dusty plum compote and spice box aromas. The palate is treated to a medium to full-bodied mouthful of rich and concentrated flavours that include plum jam and a rich, sweet treat, redolent of cherry clafouti. This is very well balanced and offers a lengthy finish. (VH)

France

*** drink now
Barton and Guestier 'French Tom' Chardonnay 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc $14.95 (619270)
A refreshing nose of apple and floral notes forms the segue to this light to medium-bodied quaffing white. Tropical fruit with hints of mineral and earthy notes form the flavour profile on the palate while the fairly short finish is clean and refreshing with balancing citrus tang. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Remy Pannier Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2005
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine $9.95 (13821)
Quite attractive aromas of peach, apricot and citrus start you off, while the flavours are led by the citrus zone (lemon, white grapefruit). It's light-medium bodied and makes a perfect partner to simply-prepared white fish and seafood dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Bouchard Aine et Fils Pinot Noir 2004
AOC Bourgogne $16.95 (665406)
Looking for a quality Pinot from Burgundy offering value for money? Look no further. Luxuriate in the glorious aromas of cranberry and red currant then be captivated as those same aromas play back as flavours that meld perfectly with Montmorency cherry along with spice and savoury notes. Expect a lengthy finish with perfectly balancing tang. Pair to smoked duck breast. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Chantovent Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Vin de Pays d'Oc $9.95 (621987)
Gooseberry, grass and sharp nettles form the aromas on the lifted nose of this light to medium-bodied white. Oodles of tang - citrus and white grapefruit - right from the get go to the lengthy clean and refreshing finish. This cries out for pan-seared white fish and generous squirts of freshly-squeezed lemon. Wonderful price point. (VH)

Italy

**** drink or cellar
Cesari Amarone Classico 2003
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $33.05 (426718)
Possesses all the attributes of what one would expect from a well-made Amarone. The nose, palate and finish are replete with aromas and flavours of rich and concentrated, dried and crushed raisin and cranberry. Layers of sweet berry and black cherry fruit - the 2003 scorching hot vintage shining through - and that gorgeous bitter chocolate finish. This very well-balanced and good to go now to 2012. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Farnese 'Casale Vecchio' 2005
DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo $12.25 (612788)
Dark, almost opaque in the glass, the aromatic profile is of dark, crushed fruit - currant and cherry - with a hint of spice box. Loads of sweet cherry and berry fruit on the palate with perceptible, but acceptable, tannins and a moderate squirt of tang to keep it all honest. Not complex, but not pricey, either. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Secco-Bertani Ripasso 2003
DOC Valpolicello Valpantena $14.15 (12443)
This deserves consideration as one of the best bargains available on General List wines. It opens with a beguiling nose of fig, dark raisin and toasty oak. The palate is soaked with rich concentrated flavours of black berry fruit, especially currant, and Bing cherry. The texture is smooth and medium to full-bodied. It finishes well-balanced, lengthy and luxurious with stewed prunes and spice notes. (VH)

South Africa

***1/2 drink now
Fleur Du Cap Merlot 2003
WO Coastal Region $13.00 (340414)
If you love those tarry, smoky reds from SA, this is your cup of tarry, smoky tea. The lifted nose opens with, you guessed it, smoke and tar notes. Look for red berry and medicinal cherry flavours along with some pleasant oaky nuances. This finishes quite tangy and would be a wonderful accompaniment to pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

Spain

**** drink now
Bodegas Riscal Tempranillo 2004
Tierra de Castilla Léon $11.60 (620898)
The quality to price balance is tipped heavily, and heavenly, in your favour. Rich, dark berry aromas ooze from the glass of this medium-bodied red. Expect a mélange of black cherry and sweet (14% alcohol) black berry flavours that are deliciously entwined with black licorice and the slightest hint of oak, smoke and chocolate. The lengthy finish replays the flavours. A meaty wine that punches well above its price point. (VH)

Cheers!

Rod and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar