Winecurrent
November 22, 2020 Newsletter

Newsletter Highlights:

  • 95 points and over – no wine in this newsletter rang the ‘95 points and over bell’.
  • Lisa Likes – Marie-Pierre Manciat Brut Crémant de Bourgogne Non-Vintage earned 92 points @ $26.95 found under Sparkling Wine; Hidden Bench Estate Winery Chardonnay earned 92 points @ $27.95 (includes discount) found under Limited Time Offers and, of course all her exceptional-value wines.
  • Louise Loves – 2018 Cave Spring Cellars ‘Estate Grown’ Chardonnay earned 91 points @ $19.95 found under Ontario: White Wine; 2016 First Press Cabernet Sauvignon earned 90 points @ $26.95 (includes discount) found under Limited Time Offers and, of course all her exceptional-value wines.
  • Vic Picks – 2015 Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ earned 93 points @ $49.95 found under Sparkling Wine; 2018 Flat Rock Cellars ‘The Rusty Shed’ Chardonnay earned 91 points @ 26.95 found under Ontario White Wine; 2017 Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Red Tail’ Merlot earned 92 points @ $18.95 (with discount) and 2019 Henry of Pelham ‘Bin 106 – Lost Boys – Limited Edition’ Baco Noir with both found under Ontario: Red Wine; 2017 3 – Rings ‘It’s Magic’ Shiraz earned 90 points @ $17.95 found under Australian: Red Wine; Wits End ‘Luna’ Shiraz earned 91 points @ $14.95 (includes discount) found under ‘Limited Time Offers’ and, of course, all his exceptional-value wines.
  • Exceptional-value wine – Many wines earned the coveted icon. They’re found throughout the newsletter and easily spotted by the icon checkmark in the November 28, 2020 Vintages Release and in categories following the release… Happy hunting!

Vintages Release: November 28, 2020

Fortified Wine: Port

91drink or cellar

Messias 10 Anos Tawny Port

Portugal $26.95 (87205) 20.0% alcohol

This 10-year-old Tawny is structured, complex and value packed; it warrants your consideration. It's chockfull of spice, caramel, marmalade, nutty and fig flavours. Wonderfully viscous and warm on the palate, it delivers a fully textured and well-structured river of treacle-like flavours that pair perfectly with spice cake, crème brûlée or a salty aged hard cheese like Parmigiano Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: Sherry

94drink now

Bodegas Hidalgo ‘Faraon’ Oloroso Sherry Non-Vintage

DO Jerez, Spain $19.95 500 mL (471078) 18.0% alcohol

This mahogany-hued gem is alluring and irresistible; it got that way after twenty or so years maturing in oak casks. Aromas of walnuts, dried fruit, dried orange peel and caramel replay on the palate along with sharp spice, tea leaves, drying acidity and more nutty notes. It’s aromatic and flavourful with a drying, spice-laden aftertaste. Pour as an aperitif, with game dishes, hearty stew or mature Gouda or mimolette cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Dessert Wine: Mead

90drink now
The Lyme Bay ‘Moniack Mead’ Non-Vintage

United Kingdom $19.95 (987263) 14.5% alcohol

The history of mead—made by fermenting honey and water—goes back as far as 8000 years. This particular brand is wildly popular and extremely sought after around the world. In the glass, it has hues of deep golden brown. There are predominant aromas of honey and beeswax with secondary notions of honeydew melon, clover and burnt sugar. It’s full bodied, sweet in the mouth—stops well short of being cloying—with flavours of caramel, honey, and apple. Enjoy by itself after dinner or with home-baked apple pie. (Dave Isaacs)

Sparkling Wine

• The following méthode traditionnelle, vintage-dated, 2015 Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ is named for family matriarch Catherine Smith—Henry of Pelham’s wife. It was hand harvested and bunch selected from 100% chardonnay, then whole-cluster pressed, 20% barrel fermented, maturing four and one-half years in bottle on its lees before disgorgement. The 2nd fermentation of this Vintage-dated sparkling wine took place in the bottle(s) you purchase and take home.

93drink or cellar Oh Canada!

Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ 2015

VQA Short Hills Bench $49.95 (315200) 12.5% alcohol

A profusion of mousse forms in the glass when poured followed by seemingly endless streams of fine-bead bubbles winding their way from the bottom of the glass to the top amidst glorious aromas of leesy yeast, crisp Granny Smith apple and wisps of buttered toast and baking brioche. This bathes the palate with tang-laden pizzazz of lemon curd and white grapefruit adorned with ripe pear. It finishes clean, crisp and refreshing. There’s plenty of time for this to mature and evolve between now and 2025 when it’s ten years of age. I’d suggest a multiple purchase careful cellaring and opening a bottle now and trying another whenever the urge arises, but keeping at least one bottle until 2025 reaping the rewards of patience and wine maturity. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar

Domaine Ste-Michelle Brut Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage

Columbia Valley, Washington $21.95 (557637) 12.5% alcohol

Sharp-edged aromas of racy citrus, leesy notes and orange zest bubble from the glass with gusto. It explodes on the glass with myriad fruit flavours—Granny Smith apple, tropical fruit, white nectarine and pear—mingling with saline-tinged minerality and a boatload of tang and charm. It has good depth, deft balance and persistent purity of fruit from cork pop to last drop. Give it a go with seafood appetizers or lemon chicken. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar

Marie-Pierre Manciat Brut Crémant de Bourgogne Non-Vintage
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $26.95 (402362) 12.5% alcohol
This traditional-method sparkling wine from southern Burgundy entices the nose with caramel apple, lemon zest and toasty biscuit notes from time spent on its lees in the bottle. It has a generous palate of zesty citrus, ripe apple and brioche leading to a long, full and frothy finish. A good value Crémant, it’s well balanced with lively acidity and a delicate effervescence. (Lisa Isabelle)

89drink now

Belcanto Di Bellussi Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene Superiore Non-Vintage

DOCG Valdobbiadene $19.95 (53215) 11.5% alcohol
This is crisp, clean and refreshing with notes of minerality and lemon acidity streaking across the palate preceded by a quiet nose of crisp green apple and minerality. There’s a solid line of acidity throughout with lime and pineapple peeking through on the finish. A lovely welcoming wine or serve with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

• Low-yielding chardonnay vines averaging 30 years old provided excellent fruit for the following 2018 Cave Spring Cellars ‘Estate Grown’ Chardonnay. It matured in older oak casks before bottling. 

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!

Cave Spring Cellars ‘Estate Grown’ Chardonnay 2018

VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (256552) 13.5% alcohol

This presents with a rich nose of orchard fruit, anise and vanilla notes opening the door to a medium-full bodied wash of delicious ripe pear and peach flavours lifted with tangy and slightly pithy citrus. It is perfectly balanced with an enjoyable warm and lasting dry finish, replaying anise and vanilla notes. Pour alongside prawn risotto. (Louise Boutin)

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!

Flat Rock Cellars ‘The Rusty Shed’ Chardonnay 2018

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $26.95 (1552) 13.5% alcohol

A light golden hue, it offers a cornucopia of aromas with baking spice, vanilla and bits of biscuit and caramel to the fore. It dazzles the palate with a gusher of smooth texture, medium-full body and plenty of palate flavours—red apple, crème caramel, piquant spice, oaky notes and tart grapefruit tang on the back palate and lengthy aftertaste. This has good bones and should improve even by the time it’s released; it needs only time to meld—and it’s very good value. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!    
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (131540) 13.0% alcohol 
Mixed spice, rich dark berry fruit and notions of cassis aromas on the nose, this value-packed gem envelops the palate with rich, ripe and rarin’ to go creamy-smooth fruit flavours—black plum, black currant and racy pie cherry—robed in lip-smacking tang and baking spice, underpinned by soft tannin, It’s medium bodied with good mouthfeel and plenty to like about the finish and aftertaste, as well, it’s lengthy, dry with deft balance of tang, ripe fruit and soft tannin. Pour with a prime cut of beef with grilled Portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2019 Henry of Pelham ‘Bin 106 – Lost Boys – Limited Edition’ Baco Noir was sourced from a single vineyard of accredited sustainably grown fruit on vines that were shovel planted by hand by the three Speck Brothers thirty-five years before these grapes were harvested. The wine was barrel-selected after maturing in American 225L barriques—50% one-year old/50% new—followed by 12 months in a foudre—a foudre is a very large oak container (3000L) that is significantly larger than a barrique.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Bin 106 – Lost Boys – Limited Edition’ Baco Noir 2019
VQA Ontario $29.95 (13421) 13.0% alcohol

Gamey notes, tobacco, vanillin and mixed field berry fruit aromas introduce this fabulous baco noir. It envelops the palate with a gusher of palate flavours—lip-smacking crunchy red fruit melding beautifully with sweet-tinged black Bing cherry and wisps of Kirsch liqueur. It’s medium-plus bodied, generously textured and presents with good complexity and plenty of pizzazz. Give this a go with osso buco, cassoulet or lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  
3 – Rings ‘It’s Magic’ Shiraz 2017
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (15495) 14.9% alcohol
This hi-octane shiraz—almost 15.0% alcohol—wafts from the glass with alluring aromas of dark berry fruit—currant and raspberry—interlaced with mixed spice and grilled savoury herbs. It coats the palate with gusher of flavour—black currant jam, bittersweet dark chocolate and notions of kirsch liqueur. It finishes in a balanced, lengthy and warm finish with persistent palate-replays and hints of gamey bits. You won’t go wrong pouring it with oven-baked or barbecued back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2017 Jim Barry Wines ‘Barry Bros.’ Shiraz was sourced from the family-owned estate vineyards in the cool-climate Geographical Indication (GI) of Clare Valley located north of the city of Adelaide in the state of South Australia.

• Jim Barry Wines—on the winery’s 60th anniversary—captured the prestigious 2020 James Halliday Wine Companion, ‘Australia’s Winery of the Year Award’!

93drink or cellar
Jim Barry Wines ‘Barry Bros.’ Shiraz 2017
Clare Valley, Australia $19.95 (16036) 14.0% alcohol
Black bramble berry fruit aromas—raspberry and blackberry—intertwine with violet flowers and red cherry on the nose of this medium-plus weight, gorgeously textured, value-infused shiraz. It flows over the palate with a lovely wash of delicious flavours—black plum compote, juicy black cherry and grilled herbs interwoven with excellent tang and acidity and a balanced and beautiful finish, all underpinned with soft, ripe tannin. Drink now or cellar short term pouring with well-trimmed, low- and slow-cooked lamb shoulder. The price-quality ratio skews wildly in your favour; pick up a few (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

• The following 2018 Palliser Estate Wines ‘Pencarrow’ Chardonnay was fashioned from fruit grown on two estate vineyards—Om Santi and Clouston. It was barrel fermented in French oak using 50% ambient and 50% cultivated yeasts with 20% being new oak then aged ten months on its lees with occasional stirring.

91drink or cellar

Palliser Estate Wines ‘Pencarrow’ Chardonnay 2018

Martinborough, North Island, New Zealand $23.95 (16028) 13.0% alcohol

Alluring, delicate aromas of tropical fruit, toasty notes and pit fruit provide segue for a medium-weight, nicely textured river of palate flavours with buttered toast, crisp apple and wisps of minerality to the fore. This is deftly balanced with good purity of fruit and a lengthy, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour. What’s not to like. Pour with mussels steamed in leeks, cream and white wine or scallops pan-seared in butter. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

• The following 2017 Gérard Bertrand ‘Grand Terroir - Les Aspres’ is a syrah/mourvèdre/grenache blend. Aspres translates to ‘arid’ in Catalan; an appropriate descriptor for this unique scrubland boasting a sunny Mediterranean climate in a region that borders Catalonia. Fruit was picked primarily by hand before being sorted in the vineyard and then again when they reach the winery. After a traditional fermentation they are de-stemmed prior to a three to four week maceration then pressed followed by malolactic fermentation then 33% of the wine matures in oak barrels for nine months while the balance settles and rests in vats.

93drink or cellar   
Gérard Bertrand ‘Grand Terroir - Les Aspres’ 2017
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres $19.95 (413245) 14.5% alcohol

Alluring aromas of cassis, savoury herbs, black plum and dark chocolate set the mood for a crescendo of bountiful, deftly balanced and smooth-as-silk palate flavours—cassis, black bramble berry and dark bittersweet chocolate to the fore. This showcases fabulous palate flavours, excellent balance, creamy-smooth texture and a finish and aftertaste that’s luscious and lengthy. Don’t hesitate to pick up a few for drinking now to 2025. Pour with roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, mushroom gravy and carrots, onions and potatoes cooked around the roast. (Vic Harradine)

Greece: White Wine

87drink now Exceptional Value!

Kechris ‘Kechribari’ Retsina Non-Vintage

Greece $8.95 (581942) 500 mL 11.5% alcohol

This is fermented in stainless steel tanks with high-quality resin infused during the fermentation process. The result is a wine that‘s light golden-yellow in appearance with a nose of pine, eucalyptus and roses. It’s medium-to-full bodied and dry on the palate with flavours of lemon and pine that linger through the finish. This is well paired with olives and anchovies. (Dave Isaacs)

Spain: Red Wine

• The following 2018 Alvear Palacio Quemado ‘Vendimia Seleccionada’ was sourced from select vineyards of tempranillo and garnacha tintorera vines—the latter—aka Alicante Bouschet—a rare teinturier grape variety setting it aside from other Vitis vinifera varieties—most wine grapes are Vitis vinifera—as it has a dark skin and also dark pulp. Virtually all other varieties of Vitis vinifera—both white and dark grapes—have white pulp.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!   

Alvear Palacio Quemado ‘Vendimia Seleccionada’ 2018

DO Ribera Del Guadiana $13.95 (16588) 13.5% alcohol

Opaque black and brooding in the glass, shy aromas of grilled herbs, mixed spice and dark cherry/berry fruit can be coaxed after a serious swirl. It blankets the palate with a medium- bodied, sweet-tinged and tang-laden wash of cherry, plum and vanilla flavours leading to a lip-smacking and drying finish. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours serving with pasta in tomato sauce—try pasta puttanesca. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Les Vins Bonhomme ‘El Petite Bonhomme’ is a blend of 55% old-vine monastrell, plus garnacha and syrah bush vines. The winemaking is entrusted to the Bodega Juan Gill. The fruit was handpicked, cold soaked then fermented at 23 °C for 14 days in small stainless steel vats followed by malolactic fermentation in 225L French oak barrels for the monastrell and syrah while the garnacha was in 300L American oak. The total maturation was 6 months in oak. Owner Nathalie Bonhomme was born in Montreal, Québec then immigrated to Spain some thirty years ago having now built for herself, her winery and her portfolio of artisanal Spanish wines, sterling reputations. Give this value-laden red blend a go with the suggested pasta recipe below.

88drink or cellar
Les Vins Bonhomme ‘El Petite Bonhomme’ 2018
DOP Jumilla, Spain $16.95 (16578) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of exotic spice, berry fruit and peppery notes abound. It bathes the palate with a bountiful flavoured wash of tangy red cherry and ripe blueberry laced with plenty of pizzazz in the form of crunchy acidity. It’s light on its feet with a medium-length finish and a hint of tannin. Pour alongside pasta puttanesca after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: December 12, 2020

• The following 2017 Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Shiraz was sourced from two South Australia, Geographical Indications—Clare Valley (where Wakefield winery is located) and McLaren Vale, with both highly acclaimed for their individual terroir.

89drink or cellar
Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Shiraz 2017
Clare Valley / McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (377036) 14.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of deep, rich, dark berry fruit cocktail leap from the glass interwoven with notions of tar and medicinal notes. It blankets the palate with a surge of piquant spice and oodles of acidity mingling with ripe mulberry fruit and tang-laden passion fruit all underpinned by still-evolving tannin. A three-hour aeration/decant will go a long way to enhancing your imbibing experience, popping corks in three years after careful cellaring will take it even further. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: January, 2020

• The following 2018 Buena Vista Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from vineyards in Lake County and Sonoma County in the North Coast AVA then matured in French oak for 11 months, 10% new.

89drink or cellar
Buena Vista Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
North Coast, California $19.95 (254458) 14.5% alcohol
Expect a fresh nose of black cherry, raspberry and a touch of cedar aromas with this classic California cab. It flows softly on the palate with flavours of cherry, blackberry, cassis, a vegetal note and a peppery touch in the dry finish and aftertaste. The alcohol is quite well integrated in this medium-full bodied red that will please your guests around an outdoor BBQ. (Louise Boutin)

Vintages Release: January, 2020

• The following 2018 Quail’s Gate Dry Riesling was sourced in East and West Okanagan estate-owned vineyards with fruit pressed and racked, with long, cool, temperature-controlled fermentation over four weeks—enhancing aromatics and preserving crisp and vibrant fruit flavours. This family-owned winery is managed by a 4th generation Okanagan wine family.

90drink now Oh Canada!
Quail’s Gate Dry Riesling 2018
VQA Okanagan Valley, BC $19.95 (308312) 12.5% alcohol
Lemon-lime and green apple aromas surge from the glass joined by delicate whiffs of orchard blossoms and petrol. The tangy palate is bathed in an array of citrus flavours, Granny Smith apple, and a defined mineral note with a hint of honey. Dry, medium-light bodied with bright acidity, vivid citrus flavours endure on the lengthy finish while accents of lime zest emerge on the aftertaste. Enjoy with pan-seared snapper. (Lisa Isabelle)

Vintages Release: TBD 2021

• The following 2020 André Brunel ‘la Bécassonne’ Blanc is a blend of 50% roussanne/30% grenache blanc/20% clairette hand-harvested from vines averaging over 40 years old. It was vinified in concrete vats at 18° C and settled for six months in vats before bottling.

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value! 
André Brunel ‘la Bécassonne’ Blanc 2020
AOP Côtes du Rhone, France $16.95 13.5% alcohol
This young, white southern-Rhône blend will make you smile with its exquisite aromas of ripe pear, fresh sweet honeydew melon, white freesia flower and a backdrop of minerality.
Uber soft and ample on the palate, it carries flavours of pear and fresh apricot immediately followed with white grapefruit zest. The finish is slightly pithy with a white pepper and saline note providing excellent balance and length. It’s delicious paired with fish and chips or bacon-wrapped scallops. (Louise Boutin)

• The following 2017 Bodegas Ugalde ‘Casa Centimaria’ Crianza—in Rioja, red wines identified as ‘Crianza’ signify they were aged for one year in oak barrels. This particular vintage is a blend of 85% tempranillo/15% garnacha that was matured twelve months in American oak followed by at least six months in bottle prior to release.  

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value! 
Bodegas Ugalde ‘Casa Centimaria’ Crianza 2017
DOCa Rioja, Spain $16.95 14.0% alcohol 
The nose offers an abundance of pleasing aromas—cherry, blackberry and strawberry—backed by notes of tobacco, bay leaf and violet. Dry, medium bodied with fresh acidity, apparent tannin and well-integrated alcohol, the juicy palate features berries and plums with nuances of herbs and spice. This exceptional-value wine showcases a remarkably fresh texture, a lengthy fruit-infused finish, and would complement grilled chorizo sausages. (Lisa Isabelle)

• The following 2015 Bodegas Ugalde ‘Casa Centimaria’ Reserva was sourced from vines over 50 years of age on the Sierra de Cantabria slopes and another estate vineyard of 15 year old vines and is a blend of 85% tempranillo/10% graciano/5% mazuelo that spent 10 days in alcoholic fermentation at 29 °C and eight days of skin-contact maceration then malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks.

91drink or cellar 
Bodegas Ugalde ‘Casa Centimaria’ Reserva 2015
DOCa Rioja, Spain $19.95 13.5% alcohol 
Lifted aromas of dark cherry, plums and red currant are enhanced with notes of leather, sandalwood, anise and dark chocolate. Red and dark fruit flavours surge over the tasty palate with savoury herbs, a touch of vanilla and a dusty mineral note persisting on the extended finish. Medium-full bodied, and well balanced with fine-grained tannins and enlivening acidity, this is a terrific value to enjoy with braised lamb shanks. (Lisa Isabelle)

• The following 2015 Provolo ‘Campotorbian’ Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore was sourced from a blend of grape varieties—60% corvina/25% rondinella/10% corvinone/5% oseleta—the latter an ancient grape that was ‘re-discovered’ fairly recently. Grape harvest occurred end of September with the 1st fermentation at 10 to 15 °C for 10 days and the 2nd fermentation carried out in mid-April—the ‘Ripasso’—at 15 to 23 °C for 17 days followed by spontaneous malolactic fermentation in oak barriques. The wine then matured for 24 months in oak barriques followed by six months in bottle before release.

92drink or cellar 
Provolo ‘Campotorbian’ Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2015 
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso, Italy $19.95 14.5% alcohol 
The nose offers intriguing notes of dried cherries, cooked plums, and fig aromas melding with hints of paprika, rose petal, pipe tobacco and cedar. Fresh cherry and plum flavours coat the palate garnished with classic notions of dried fruit, baking spice and vanilla. Medium-full bodied and well-crafted with lively fruit underpinned by perceptible tannin and vibrant acidity. Suggestions of figs and sweet spice linger on the generous finish. Versatile and very well-priced, this would complement grilled meats with a side of root vegetables. (Lisa Isabelle)

• The following 2014 Bodegas Ugalde ‘Gran Reserva’ is a blend of autochthonous vines—75% tempranillo/20% graciano/5% mazuelo—that average over 30 years old in estate vineyards at 400m above sea level. Grape varieties were fermented separately for 10 days at a maximum of 29 °C then macerated with skin contact for 15 days at 18 °C. Wine was then blended and matured for three years in American oak then settled a further two years in bottle before release.

93drink or cellar 
Bodegas Ugalde ‘Gran Reserva’ 2014 
DOCa, Rioja, Spain $24.95 14.0% alcohol
Time and patience has paid off with this gorgeous Rioja blend. Starting with profound and complex aromas—dry cherry, cooked brown sugar, sweet tobacco, violet and a hint of pencil shaving—introducing a velvety wash of evolved flavours—prune, ripe plum, dry herb, a touch of black pepper and a bright blackberry note lifting the persistent, delectable finish. Keep this harmonious, medium-full bodied red in mind, it will pair beautifully with lamb-stuffed bell pepper or a hearty lentil stew. (Louise Boutin)

New in Vintages - in LCBO Vintages now

• The following 2018 Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Shiraz is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in many LCBO stores.

• Clare Valley is a relatively cool-climate region in South Australia, a couple hours from the Barossa Valley. It’s also the spiritual and physical home of the Taylor family who own and manage this fabulous winery. The price-quality balance tips wildly in your favour; it punches well above its price.

93drink or cellar
Wakefield ‘Estate Label’ Shiraz 2018
Clare Valley, South Australia $19.95 (943787) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of black cherry, berry and plum intertwine with baking spice and cocoa on the nose of this value-packed shiraz. It spreads over the palate creamy smooth and medium-plus bodied while unleashing a gusher of fruit-forward flavour of ripe mulberry, black plum and ripe Bing cherry adorned with balancing tang and a boatload of pizzazz. It showcases persistent purity of fruit, is balanced on a pin and sports a dry, delectable finish with palate replays plus a hint of cassis and dark, bittersweet chocolate. Pour with friends and slow-cooked lamb shoulder or grilled rack of lamb. Pick up a few and drink over the next seven or eight years. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Lungarotti ‘Ilbio’ Rosso was sourced from accredited-organic, estate-grown, sagrantino fruit and is also in Vintages now.

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Lungarotti ‘Ilbio’ Rosso 2016
IGT Umbria, Italy $23.95 (16573) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of wood smoke, gamy notes, black licorice and black plum compote provide segue to a medium-bodied, tang-laced river of palate flavours with passion fruit, pomegranate and plenty of pizzazz. It’s consistent from cork pop to last drop with an added dry, puckering sensation from still-evolving tannin on the rough and ready finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside hearty fare—cassoulet, chilli con carne or meat-laden lasagna. (Vic Harradine) 


New in Ontario Wineries

• For daily home, office or restaurant delivery for the following two wines order online from this link Malivoire Wine Company with FREE shipping on orders of $100. or more, or $20 credited next business day towards delivery outside Ontario and Québec. Phone 905-563-9253 Monday to Saturday 10 am - 4 pm for information and for locals to access curbside pickup instructions. Their retail shop is now open - 10 am - 5 pm, 7 days a week. There are guidelines due to COVID-19, best to phone or email first (the website has a space to type and is linked to their email).

• The following 2019 Malivoire Wine Company Pinot Gris 2019 is, as are all their wines, certified sustainable. Fruit was hand-harvested from mature vines in the Malivoire Estate Vineyard in late September. Once crushed and destemmed, the crushed berries underwent a six-hour cold soak before pressing. A cool primary fermentation followed in stainless steel tanks and after five months clarification the finished wine was bottled in February, 2020. This is only available at the winery or shipped to your home, office, or restaurant.

91drink now Oh Canada!
Malivoire Wine Pinot Gris 2019
VQA Beamsville Bench $21.95 12.0% alcohol
Slightly yellow-hued in the glass, aromas of apricot, pie dough and peach along with notions of pear round out the nose on this lovely, sustainably grown and produced gris. It bathes the palate with flavours of Meyer lemon, Bosc pear, green apple and blood orange. This is medium weight with good mouthfeel, deft balance and plenty of pizzazz from cork pop to last drop. Lovely sipped on its own, it really shines alongside spiced Asian cuisine like pad Thai, or hot and sour soup. (Vic Harradine)

• The following limited-production Gamay—fewer than 100 cases—is available only at the winery. The 2019 Malivoire Wine ‘Genova’ Gamay is single-vineyard sourced from a notable site – the VQA Vinemount Ridge. A quick look at this particular sub-region reveals a moderately wide diurnal temperature range, early season warming and hot summers along with one of the shortest growing seasons in the Niagara Peninsula. Grape clusters gaining the winemaker’s approval were hand-picked, then hand-sorted at the winery. The largest portion (70%) were crushed and poured into a limestone-concrete tank between layers of the remaining 30% that remained whole clusters. After fermentation and pressing, 87% of the wine matured in neutral oak barrels with the balance in stainless steel tanks with both remaining in their respective enclosures for seven months before blending and bottling.

93drink now Oh Canada!
Malivoire Wine ‘Genova’ Gamay 2019
VQA Vinemount Ridge $27.95 11.5% alcohol
Twenty seconds resting in the glass then a good swirl reveals aromas of red raspberry, hints of strawberry and piquant spice. It bathes the front palate on entry with sweet-tinged ripe, dark cherry and follows up with a mid-palate infusion of crunchy red fruit—pomegranate, pie cherry and blood orange—persisting through the finish and tangy lip-smacking aftertaste that also offers considerable length. This showcases persistent purity of fruit flavour and excellent balance of ripe fruit flavour and mouth-watering tang. Pour alongside a barbecued, premium cut of beefsteak or grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

LCBO ‘Limited Time Offers’ – November 9 to November 29, 2020

• Regardless of the vintage you purchase from the LCBO, you’ll receive the discount shown for each bottle of wine reviewed below that’s purchased November 9 to November 29, 2020.
White Wine

• The following five wines receive a $2.00 discount on each bottle purchased from the regular price shown below.

87 drink or cellar
Bollino Pinot Grigio

DOC Trentino, Italy $18.95 (951319) 14.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of straw and floral notes open the door to a medium-bodied, nicely textured wash of crisp refreshing white grapefruit intertwining with Granny Smith apple and mineral notes bathing the palate infusing the clean, zippy-dry finish and aftertaste. Pour this clean, mouth-watering pinot grigio with grilled fish or seafood under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

85drink now
Anselmi ‘San Vincenzo’
IGT Veneto, Italy $17.95 (948158) 12.5% alcohol
An über-savory nose of grassy notes and sprigs of savory herbs dressed in piquant spice provide segue to this garganega blend. The mid-weight, lightly textured stream of palate-pleasing flavour skips over the palate with flavours of lemongrass, pear and wisps of apple persisting through the mid-length finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own as a pleasant pre-dinner sipper. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Hidden Bench Estate Winery Chardonnay
VQA Beamsville Bench $29.95 (68817) 13.0% alcohol
This is an outstanding expression of certified-organic Niagara chardonnay. Pronounced aromas of red apple, white grapefruit, butterscotch and vanilla segue to a creamy-textured wash of apple, tangy citrus and spice notes on the palate. Dry, medium bodied, it’s well-balanced with a long, mouth-watering, mineral-laden finish. Delicious on its own or enjoy with almond-crusted halibut fillets. (Lisa Isabel)

88drink now
Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner's Reserve’ Chardonnay
California $21.95 (369686) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of butter cream and toasted oak meld with hints of tropical fruit. It is medium-to-full bodied on the palate, with a refreshing acidity. Flavours of oak and pineapple are carried through the finish, where they are joined with a hint of grapefruit. This is a nice match for baked cod. (Dave Isaacs)

90drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Malivoire ‘Estate Grown’ Chardonnay
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (573147) 12.5% alcohol A shy nose of Granny Smith apple and hints of baking spice aromas provide segue to a delightful array of deftly balanced palate flavours with honey-drizzled apple interwoven with lemon curd and sweet Bosc pear that persists throughout. This is medium weight, nicely textured and well balanced with a good seam of tang, persistent purity of fruit, plenty of charm and a delightfully lingering finish. It also offers a price-quality ratio tipped well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

• The following two wines receive a $3.00 discount on each bottle purchased from the regular price shown below.

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Mission Hill ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay
VQA Okanagan Valley $23.95 (545004) 13.5% alcohol
Displaying aromas of tropical and tree fruit, custard and spice, this is beautifully crafted showing exemplary balance. Dry, on the full side of medium-bodied, there’s intensity to the flavours of grilled pear and pineapple. The warmth of spiced nuances, nutty toasty notes of well-integrated oak and the subtle yet refreshing acidity bringing poise to the wine and length to the finish. (Susan Desjardins)

• The following Sonoma Cutrer ‘Russian River Ranches’ Chardonnay is a Vintages Essentials wine—always available in select LCBO stores.

89drink or cellar
Sonoma Cutrer ‘Russian River Ranches’ Chardonnay 2015
Sonoma Coast, California (608653) $27.95 14.2% alcohol
Baking spice, oak, pear and apple aromas abound. A medium-full bodied, generously textured surge of tangy lemon curd and Key lime interweave with baked apple and spice along with hints of grapefruit pith on finish and aftertaste. It’ll all come together with another 12 months in bottle, rewarding patience handsomely. Pour with fall squash soup. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine receives a $4.00 discount on each bottle purchased from the regular price shown below.

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Palliser Estate Wines ‘Pencarrow’ Chardonnay
Martinborough, North Island, New Zealand $21.95 (16028) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring, delicate aromas of tropical fruit, toasty notes and pit fruit provide segue for a medium-weight, nicely textured river of palate flavours with buttered toast, crisp apple and wisps of minerality to the fore. This is deftly balanced with good purity of fruit and a lengthy, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour. What’s not to like. Pour with mussels steamed in leeks, cream and white wine or scallops pan-seared in butter. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine receives a $6.00 discount on each bottle purchased from the regular price shown below.

92drink or cellar
Artesa Los Carneros Chardonnay
Los Carneros $30.00 (657585) 14.3% alcohol

The grapes for this gorgeously balanced chardonnay were hand-harvested, with 70% of the juice fermented in French oak barrels—30% new—and the remainder fermented in stainless steel. Only half the wine underwent malolactic fermentation. The result is a wine that is brilliant brass in appearance, with aromas of whipped cream, oak, and a medley of summer meadow flowers. It’s full-bodied on the palate, with lively mouth-watering acidity. The flavours of apple and clementine linger so delightfully in the finish that you’ll want it to last forever. This can lay in your cellar for another year or two, but it is a joy just to sit and sip now, along with a plate of soft cheeses. (Dave Isaacs)

Red Wine and Specialty Wine

• The following wine receives a $1.00 discount on each bottle purchased from the regular price shown below.

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (64618) 12.9% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour here. Floral notes, graphite and hints of incense mingle with bramble berry on the nose of this medium-bodied, silky-smooth textured, delightful cab franc. It caresses the palate with a deftly balanced and immensely flavourful stream showcasing balance of tang and acidity, soft ripe tannin and delectable flavour with ripe red plum and cherry playing off good tang and a lengthy crisp and mouth-watering finish. Give this a go with comfort food off the grill—gourmet sausage, beer-can chicken. (Vic Harradine)
 
• The following five wines receive a $2.00 discount on each bottle purchased from the regular price shown below.

90drink now Exceptional Value!
Borsao ‘Tres Picos’ Garnacha
DO Campo de Borja, Spain $19.95 (273748) 15.0% alcohol
This gem has developed quite the following. Aromas of black plum, fig and savory herbs set the tone for a rich, hedonistic river of bramble berry and black currant robed in lip-smacking acidity adorned with peppery notes and fennel. There are ripe fine-grained tannin adding structure and interest. It’s nicely balanced with a fruit and tang-filled finish. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Catena Cabernet Sauvignon is a Vintages Essential wine always available in select LCBO stores. This 100% cabernet sauvignon is sourced across Catena’s high-mountain vines located in Primera Zona, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco.

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Catena ‘High Mountain Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon
Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (985002) 13.5% alcohol
The price-quality ratio swings wildly in your favour here. Tobacco, dark cherry/berry fruit and grilled savoury herb aromas abound. This gorgeous cab envelops the palate with a plush, full-bodied swath of ripe black plum, juicy black cherry and hints of cassis and mocha. It’s complex, deftly balanced and dense with a lengthy finish enhanced by lip-smacking tang and acidity. Give this a go with grilled gourmet sausage, steak or backyard burgers. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2018 Vicente Faria ‘Gloria’ is a blend of über-premium Port grapes—40% tinta roriz/30% touriga franca/30% touriga nacional—with both this table wine and all Port wine sourced from the historic, friendly and picturesque Douro wine region. The winemaker opines that the fruit was hand-harvested at or near the apex of its organoleptic perfection. It matured 12 months in oak barrels before bottling. It shouldn’t be around LCBO shelves long at this quality-price ratio, pick up a few; if you’re flush, and pick up a case.

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Vicente Faria ‘Gloria – Reserva’
DOC Douro, Portugal $16.95 (146522) 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, cherry/berry fruit and wisps of earthy and gamy note aromas abound. It blankets the palate with a full-bodied, full-flavoured, full-Monty surge of palate flavours—rich, ripe black raspberry and cassis robed in spice, herbs and lip-smacking tang persisting through the lengthy finish and aftertaste. There’s deft balance, depth, concentration of flavours and careful cellaring potential—drink now to 2030 with a thick, prime cut of beef, grilled to (your) perfection. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellarOh Canada! 
The Foreign Affair ‘The Conspiracy’ 
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (149237) 13.8% alcohol 
This cabernet, Ripasso-inspired red—the wine was ‘passed over’ cab sauv and cab franc skins from dried wines—highlights aromas of raisin, fig and red cherry. It flows over the palate with tannin-infused waves of dark berry fruit and red cherry that are spice laden and framed with good moderating acidity. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a long finish laced with still-evolving tannin. Pop corks now-2025 after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

88drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Pelee Island ‘Lola’ Cabernet Franc Rosé
VQA South Island, Lake Erie North Shore $15.95 (552497) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas and flavours of freshly picked strawberry, tangy cranberry and ruby red grapefruit dominate the nose and palate intertwined with notions of mixed spice and excellent acidity prevailing through the palate and infusing the finish then aftertaste. Pour well chilled on its own or with a mixed deli board. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

• The following six wines receive a $3.00 discount on each bottle purchased from the regular price shown below.

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Wits End ‘Luna’ Shiraz
McLaren Vale, South Australia $17.95 (311258) 14.0% alcohol
This is developing a following as each vintage cements its reputation as delivering value and great taste. Savory herbs and dark ripe fruit aromas—plum, bramble berry and cherry—herald smooth and mellow mouthfuls of juicy tang and oodles of flavour with pie cherry and ripe black currant melding with an underpinning of soft, ripe tannin. This is mid-full weight and nicely textured with good balance and charm. It’s good to go now served with well-seasoned, grilled medium-rare striploin. (Vic Harradine)

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First Press Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Napa Valley $29.95 (188110) 14.5% alcohol
Expect dark cherry, strawberry, black peppercorn and baking spice on the nose of this excellent Napa red, aged sixteen months in a combination of French and American oak. A velvety textured wash of concentrated flavours—ripe black cherry, raspberry, blackberry and red pepper—treats the palate while lively acidity and fine-grained tannin provide structure and enhance the lengthy fruit forward, spicy finish. Aerate/decant one hour and enjoy with braised beef short-ribs. (Louise Boutin)

88drink or cellar
Concha y Toro ‘Winemaker’s Lot 148’ Carmenère
Rapel Valley, Chile $18.95 (30957) 14.0% alcohol
This is good value and it’s rich, ripe and rarin’ to go now. A beautifully balanced river of juicy black Bing cherry and black plum interweave with racy pomegranate and herbal notes on the creamy smooth palate along with mixed spice and mocha. It’s a bit funky on the nose with some bell pepper and strong herbal notes, but that melts away and you’re left with a creamy-smooth, hedonistic offering. It pours and pairs well with burgers, red pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Hidden Bench Estate ‘Organic’ Pinot Noir
VQA Beamsville Bench $34.95 (274753) 12.7% alcohol
A subdued nose of red berry fruit and spice provide segue for a gorgeous mouthful of deftly balanced racy tang—pie cherry and red currant—and ripe juicy fruit—black plum and dark Bing cherry. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and a delectable lingering finish of mixed spice with wisps of toasty oak and soft tannin. Pour this organic gem with rack of lamb, roast turkey or crown roast of pork. (Vic Harradine)

92drink now
Domaine Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Aurore’ Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $22.95 (48793) 12.0% alcohol
Pale-salmon hued, this is absolutely delightful—a medium-bodied sparkler that’s fruity and dry. From subtle aromas of summer berries, spice and brioche through to the delicate creamy mousse that refreshes the palate, it offers light, red berry flavours and a lengthy mouth-watering finish. Great value, enjoy it whiling away an afternoon or with smoked salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

89drink now Oh Canada!
Peller ‘Private Reserve’ Vidal Icewine
VQA Ontario $27.30 (18564) 200 mL 11.5% alcohol
Deep golden-yellow in the glass, the nose offers up whispers of buckwheat honey, spice and orange peel marmalade aromas. It bursts onto the palate with an intense surge of sweet flavour—honey-soaked, baked apple, treacle, sweet ripe mango and poached pear. This is full bodied and creamy smooth on the palate with lengthy, reasonably balanced aftertaste. Pour with foie gras, soft white cheese or spiced honey cake. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine receives a six dollar discount for every bottle purchased from the regular price shown below.

88drink now Oh Canada!
Jackson-Triggs ‘Reserve’ Vidal Icewine
VQA Ontario $39.95 (389411) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol
Mango and ripe yellow peach aromas unleash a gusher of sweet, honeyed flavour on the palate with honey-drizzled peach pie and candied apricot coating the palate and persisting through the finish. It’s full bodied and generously textured delivering a sticky, sweet aftertaste. Pour with quality blue cheese or fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine will be discounted $10.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.

94drink or cellar
Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $102.95 (158550) 12.0% alcohol
Made from 100% Pinot Noir, this was vinified saignée—using only red grapes, not red wine mixed with white as is usually done in Champagne—capturing tantalizing spice, red licorice and berry fruit aromas and an alluring salmon-pink colour. It attacks the palate with mid weight, generous texture and a groundswell of flavour with black currant, strawberry and spiced Damson plum to the fore. This is lovely sipped on its own with the oomph to pair well with pan-seared salmon or festive bird. (Vic Harradine)
 
Cheers, Louise, Lisa, Dave, Vic