Winecurrent
March 15, 2020 Newsletter

Newsletter Highlights

Louise Boutin  Lisa Isabelle 
 Louise Boutin  Lisa Isabelle


Taste Ontario
passed through Ottawa on March 2 providing an excellent opportunity for trade and media to taste a wide selection of Ontario wines. Two of winecurrent’s intrepid wine critics—Lisa Isabelle and Louise Boutin—braved the winter elements to taste and review the wines presented. Read those reviews and how/where you can purchase by clicking here.

Australia FlagWinecurrent’s journey continues taking you to iconic wineries and iconic winemakers in Australia. This focuses on the Barossa Valley. Vic tasted with iconic winemaker John Duval who was Penfold’s trophy-winning winemaker for 29 years. Winecurrent also tasted with Yalumba Family Winemakers, who are members of the vaunted, ‘Australian First Families of Wine’, 5th generation vignerons and recognized as Australia’s oldest family-owned winery. Read wine reviews and see photos, and much, much more for John Duval and Yalumba

  • Exceptional-value wine Exceptional Value – 15 of the 62 wines in this newsletter meet strict quality-price guidelines. The wines range from $12.95 to $18.95 and are easily identified throughout the newsletter via the value checkmark above.
  • Lisa Likes – All the following wines are found under the Ontario Taste Feature: 2016 Creekside ‘Broken Press’ Syrah earned 92 points @ $55.00; 2018 Flat Rock Cellars Riesling earned 89 points @ $17.95; 2018 Meldville Wines Chardonnay earned 91 points @ $20.00.
  • Louise Loves – 2018 Alba Vega Albariño earned 90 points @ $15.95 found under Spain: White Wine with a Exceptional Value ; Henry of Pelham Estate Riesling 2018 earned 90 points at $19.95 and 2018 Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay earned 91 points at $29.95 with both found under Upstream in winecurrent; and 2016 Meldville Cabernet Franc earned 92 points at $27.00
  • Vic Picks – 2018 Wakefield ‘Estate’ Chardonnay earned 93 points @ $16.95 found under Australia: White Wine with a Exceptional Value ; 2018 Wakefield ‘Estate’ Chardonnay earned 92 points @ $17.95 found under Australia: Red Wine with a Exceptional Value ; 2017 John Duval Wines ‘Entity’ Shiraz earned 96 points at $59.95 found under Classics Catalogue Release: April 2, 2020.

Vintages Release: March 21, 2020

Fortified Wine

88drink or cellar
Generations Wine Company ‘Forté’ 2007

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (361758) 500 mL 18.0% alcohol

Aromas of dark cherry and mixed spice herald a warm, sweet river of kirsch liqueur and cranberry mingling with red licorice and peppery spice. This was fashioned from Cabernet Franc and Merlot with a spoonful of Syrah—it rested six years in oak barrel. More versatile than you might expect—sip on its own after dinner, with or without a cigar or try blue-veined cheese or death-by-chocolate dessert. Always consume in moderation, it’s quite high octane. (Vic Harradine) 

Sparkling Wine

There are various ways to put bubbles in wine. Four common methods (highly simplified) are listed below in order of expense, and what ‘wine-lovers’ (modestly including yours truly) generally think as the method producing the highest-quality Sparkling Wine:

  1. Traditional Method, aka Méthode Traditionelle aka Methode Cap Classique in South Africa, Tasmanoise in Tasmania, etc. - requires one to first make ‘still’ wine (no bubbles) then place this already once-fermented wine in a bottle and add yeast, yeast nutrient and sugar (aka tirage) and stopper the bottle immediately, usually with a crown cap (like beer), causing a 2nd fermentation to occur in that bottle. After some months of time, you then remove the yeast cells aka lees (aka disgorge) and top it up by adding a small amount of still wine and cane sugar (aka liqueur d’expédition) in which a carefully titrated amount of cane sugar determines the eventual sweetness level of the wine you drink. Some wine regions are restricted to only making sparkling wines in this method, e.g. Cava (Spain) and Champagne (France).
  2. Transfer Method - same as above until the disgorging process, in this method the bottles are disgorged (wine, bubbles and lees) into a sealed tank under pressure, filtered (remove lees) re-bottled and sold with the 2nd fermentation having occurred in ‘a bottle’, but not in the bottle you purchase. Not as involved or as expensive as the Traditional Method and considered to not produce wines as superior as the Traditional Method.
  3. Tank Method, aka Charmat Method or Cuvée Close Method – a still base wine is placed in a sealed tank to which yeast, yeast nutrient, and clarifying agent are added. The 2nd fermentation then takes place in the tank with resulting sediment filtered out and remaining wine and bubbles transferred under pressure to the bottle you purchase. Again considerably less expensive and considered a notch down in quality. 
  4. Carbonated Method, aka Bicycle Pump Method - CO2 is injected into wine that is in a sealed tank, then wine, now with bubbles, fill bottles that are then stoppered and sold. Although inexpensive, popular and acceptable in soft drinks, it’s considered an inferior method to produce bubbles in wine and incapable of producing superior product. 

90drink nowOh Canada!
Thirty Bench Sparkling Riesling Non-Vintage

VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $38.95 (469478) 12.0% alcohol

An involved nose of minerality, lime, crisp apple and leesy/yeasty notes—it spent almost a year on its lees, made Méthode Traditionnelle, precede fine-bead mousse and a laser-like line of bracing acidity. Flavours of citrus, passion fruit and flecks of gooseberry ride the riveting tang on the palate and finish. It’s an appealing match with freshly shucked oysters under a dot of hot sauce and squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

92drink now
Charme d’Aliénor Crémant de Bordeaux Non-Vintage

AOC Crémant de Bordeaux, France $16.95 (483008) 12.0% alcohol

Slight leesy aromas—produced Méthode Traditionnelle—interweave with citrus, ginger and wisps of nutty notes on the nose. It’s creamy smooth and quite expressive on the palate, brimming with texture and ripe, fruit flavour tinged slightly off-dry —honeydew melon, juicy nectarine and blood orange meld into a delectable mouthful of pure joy persisting through the balanced, refreshing, finish and aftertaste. Pick up a few on release day; it’s not to be missed. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar
Louis Bouillot ‘Perle Rare Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne 2015

AOC Bourgogne, France $21.95 (178137) 12.0% alcohol

Apple, pear and citrus aromas mingle with wisps of yeast and nutty notes on the nose of this lovely vintage-dated, Méthode Traditionnelle sparkler. Look for more of those orchard fruits on the palate, tangy lemon yoghurt, crisp green apple and a lovely dollop of poached pear sweetness for balance. It finishes in a crisp, refreshing blaze on the tangy aftertaste. This is stylish and classy with the price-quality balance tipped in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

• This Méthode Traditionnelle 2016 Castillo Perelada ‘Stars’ Brut Nature Reserva Cava is a vintage-dated, value-laden blend of mostly indigenous varieties including the holy trinity of Cava —38% xarel-lo/26% parellada/21% macabeo—along with chardonnay and pinot noir splitting the final 15%. It’s been served by this premium producer every summer since 1987 at one of Europe’s most prestigious music festivals.

89drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Castillo Perelada ‘Stars’ Brut Nature Reserva Cava 2016

DO Cava, Spain $16.95 (515221) 11.5% alcohol

This is vintage-dated and was fashioned Méthode Traditionnelle. A fragrant nose of lime and green apple is complemented with yeasty brioche and honeysuckle aromas. The bubbles are mouth filling, they flood the palate with refreshing zesty flavours accompanied with ripe pear and nice minerality then a crisp, lip-smacking finish. It’s delicious on its own or paired with tapas and it offers plenty of value for money. (Louise Boutin)

Australia: White Wine

93drink or cellar Exceptional Value!

Wakefield ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2018

Clare Valley $16.95 (711556) 13.0% alcohol

The price-quality balance in this gem tips wildly in your favour. Delicate aromas of mixed spice, caramel and pit fruit precede a balanced and beautiful wash of palate flavours with a bowl of tropical fruit with grilled pineapple and mango to the fore interweaving with white peach, lemon zest and wisps of grapefruit. There’s persistent purity of fruit, creamy texture and lengthy delectable finish and aftertaste. Don’t be afraid to pick up an armful; it’s food friendly and a crowd pleaser. Give it a go with beer-can roast chicken or pan-seared pork cutlets. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

90drink or cellar

Pirathon by Kalleske Shiraz 2013

Barossa Valley $29.95 (130278) 14.5% alcohol

Pronounced aromas of blackberry and dark plum meld with notions of tobacco, black olives, spice and vanilla on the nose then replay on the rich, mouth-coating palate. It’s dry, full bodied and robust with a long finish of dark berry fruit, spice and vanilla. Pour this approachable, fully-flavoured red with your favourite barbecued meats. (Lisa Isabelle)

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘Organic’ Shiraz 2018
South Australia $17.95 (280883) 13.5% alcohol
Fruit was sourced from four family-owned, organically certified vineyards then wild yeast fermented and is vegan friendly. Aromas of violets, spice, savory notes and mixed field berry fruit introduce this lively, fresh shiraz. It races over the palate with oodles of tangy red fruit—plum, pie cherry and cranberry—intertwined with savoury, earthy notes and ripe blueberry peeking through on the dry, lip-smacking finish. Drink now with lightly spiced Asian cuisine or thin-crust three-cheese—Brie, Gouda, mozzarella—white pizza drizzled with spicy olive oil and arugula. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

89drink or cellar  

Gérard Bertrand ‘Terroir Fitou’ 2018

AOP Fitou $17.95 (403683) 14.5% alcohol

Carbonic maceration is used for the carignan portion of this red blend completed with grenache then aged in large barriques for 12 months. Plum compote and fresh raspberry with a touch dusty stone introduce a flow of tart fruit flavours—red cherry, raspberry and cranberry followed with a nice dry herb profile trailing in the finish and aftertaste. This is medium-full bodied with a great dose of acidity and soft tannin making it a great partner for grilled artisan sausages and ratatouille. Aerate/decant one hour before meal time. (Louise Boutin)

Portugal: White Wine

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  

Quinta de Curvos Loureiro 2019

DOC Vinho Verde $12.95 (471284) 12.0% alcohol

Often blended with its Portuguese partner alvarinho, the loureiro grape shines solo in this bright refreshing white. Look for green apple, lime juice and delicate white flower aromas. A light fizz tingles the tongue and carries zesty fruit flavours complemented with notes of green apple, honeydew melon and a mouth-watering saline note encouraging the next sip. This medium-light bodied crisp white will bring a ray of sunshine to your day. Pair with fried calamari or arugula salad with crumbled feta cheese. (Louise Boutin)

Spain: White Wine

90drink now Exceptional Value!

Alba Vega Albariño 2018

DO Rias Baixas, Spain $15.95 (488973) 13.5% alcohol

Saline breeze and seaweed come to mind when nosing this medium-bodied white from the Spanish Atlantic coast. This is deliciously briny and mouth-watering with honeydew melon and citron-confit flavours on the palate carried all the way to the satisfying long tart and mineral finish. This is a food-friendly wine and it’s perfect with fried calamari. (Louise Boutin)

Spain: Red Wine

90drink now   

Balbás ‘Reserva’ 2006

DO Ribera del Duero $24.95 (85183) 15.0% alcohol
The perfumed nose gives up aromas of dark berry fruit, leather and spice. The well-defined palate flavours of black currant, cherry and cassis flow creamy smooth while decorated with tang, soft tannin and balanced on a pin. Twelve years on, this still has lively fresh flavour and excellent acidity. Drink in the short term. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: April 4, 2020

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Luigi Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Reserve’ 2017
Mendoza, Argentina $18.95 (128629) 13.8% alcohol
This mellow 100% cabernet sauvignon, from vines averaging 40 years-old and aged 14 months in French and American oak, opens the door to an intense nose of ripe blackberry, blueberry, green pepper, black peppercorn and graphite. Silky soft on the palate, it showcases concentrated flavours of dark ripe fruit, dry cherry, kirsch liqueur, dry sage and a heartwarming peppery note showing up mid-palate persisting in the splendid dry savoury finish. It’s totally enjoyable to sip on its own or poured alongside herb-marinated, grilled flank steak. (Louise Boutin)

Vintages release: April 18, 2020

90drink or cellar Oh Canada! 
Culmina R&D Red Blend 2016
VQA Golden Mile Bench $23.00 (445494) 14.0% alcohol
R&D for Ron and Don, Triggs twin brothers, and also for research and development which led to the crafting of this terroir-driven, medium-full bodied estate-grown Bordeaux blend—merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. Expect an expressive nose of ripe blackberry, dark cherry, cassis, black peppercorn and a hint of green bell pepper and cigar box. A well-dosed ageing in a combination of new and used French oak barrels softened tannin while adding a layer of cedar and vanilla to the ripe dark fruit and savoury flavours. This is a value-packed wine to savour with pizza topped with sun-dried tomato and arugula. (Louise Boutin)

Vintages release: April 18, 2020

90drink now Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling 2018
VQA Short Bench Hills $19.95 (557165) 10.5% alcohol
This is the off-dry wine to serve to your, ‘I don’t like sweet wine’ friend. Once passed the petroleum whiff, poached pear, ginger and honey aromas charm the nose, There’s good weight on the palate lifted with bright pink grapefruit acidity and pickled ginger zing, delighting the most sceptical palate all the way to the honey-tinged yummy finish. This is a value-laden treat on its own or when paired with a vegetarian red curry. (Louise Boutin)

Vintages Release: April 18, 2020

92drink or cellar
Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘Samuel’s Collection’ Shiraz 2017
Barossa $24.95 (12907) 14.5% alcohol
This is an easy-going, crowd- and food-friendly shiraz that’ll please novice and connoisseur red-wine lovers alike and it’s great value. Aromas of red and dark cherry/berry fruit dressed with savoury spice, pencil shavings and licorice abound. It flows over the palate with delightful flavours of red plum and black raspberry with peppery notes and dollops of racy tang and acidity providing balance throughout the lengthy, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Delightful on its own, sublime with burgers, pizza or grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: May 2, 2020

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2018
VQA Short Hills Bench $29.95 (616466) 13.0% alcohol
This is a well-crafted, oaked chardonnay sourced from hand-harvested fruit, fermented and aged in French oak barrel, 40% new. Expect a complex nose of baked apple, dry pear, cardamom, butterscotch and vanilla. This is medium-bodied with refreshing texture and offers orchard fruit, caramel and vanilla flavours all balanced with lemon curd notes in the clean medium-long finish. This is a treat with sea-salt dusted, roasted almond or baked brie on toasted baguette. (Louise Boutin)

Vintages Release: TBD

• The following 2018 John Duval Wines ‘Plexus – White Blend’ is a northern Rhône-inspired blend—48% marsanne from Marananga region/43% roussanne from Kalimna region/9% viognier from Eden Valley.

95drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
John Duval Wines ‘Plexus – White Blend’ 2018
Barossa, South Australia $40.00 12.5% alcohol
This leaps from the glass with alluring, complex aromas of ginger root, mandarin peel, nectarine and wisps of honeysuckle. It showcases deft balance, excellent value, generous mouthfeel, purity of fruit and plenty of pizzazz. It’s crisp and refreshing from twist top to last drop providing segue to a fruit bowl of flavours with honey-drizzled nectarine and quince jelly mingling on the mid-palate with piquant spice, lemon curd and blood orange. These compatible flavours persist through the mouth-watering finish. Good now and for the next 5 years, pour with pan-seared freshwater fish or mussels steamed in white wine, leeks and garlic. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBD

• The following 2017 John Duval Wines ‘Plexus – Red Blend’ is a blend of two wine regions—87% Barossa Valley with the balance from Eden Valley—and three grape varieties—51% Shiraz sourced from old vineyards in sub-regions of Krondorf and Ebenezer, and Eden Valley region/32% grenache from Tanunda and Ebenezer sub-regions/17% Mourvèdre from the Light Pass sub-region. 2017 was an excellent vintage in these parts with exceptionally long hang time for the fruit. Picking began in Light Pass on March 10 and ended in Eden Valley on April 30 allowing fruit to attain optimum Baume level (sugar level in unfermented grape)—as well as organaleptical ripeness—taste, smell, sight and touch. The 2017 has all its stars aligned with a near-perfect previous winter and 2017 growing season from which the stunning fruit used in this wine was allowed to find much of its own way to bottle with very little human intervention.

98drink or cellar
John Duval Wines ‘Plexus – Red Blend’ 2017
Barossa, South Australia $54.95 (73049) 14.5% alcohol
This showcases persistent purity of fruit, deft balance, elegance, complexity, value for money and fabulous flavour. Aromas of violets, sprigs of savoury herbs and spice-infused red cherry/berry fruit abound. It bathes the palate with an elegant, balanced and delectable flow of crunchy red currant meeting ripe, sweet-tinged mulberry and blueberry decorated with savory notes, soft, ripe tannin and enhanced by mouth-watering tang. Medium-plus bodied with creamy smooth mouthfeel, you can enjoy now with a grilled rack of lamb or tuck away for seven or eight years to experience and enjoy all it has to offer. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBD

• The following 2018 Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘Samuel’s Collection – Eden Valley’ Viognier was 60% pressed into small and large, old French oak barrel with the balance in stainless steel tank then left 10 months on its fine lees and stirred regularly.

92drink or cellar
Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘Samuel’s Collection – Eden Valley’ Viognier 2018
Eden Valley $24.95 13.5% alcohol
A perfumed nose of honeysuckle and pit fruit—yellow plum, nectarine and apple—ushers in a glorious gusher of palate flavours all creamy smooth with excellent mouthfeel—sugared and grilled pink grapefruit juxtaposed to ripe, sweet grilled pineapple, ripe apricot and great balancing tang from lemon curd. It finishes lengthy and balanced on a pin with ripe palate flavours and racy citrus tang. Pour with roast chicken or breaded veal cutlets. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBD

• Fruit for the following 2017 Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘Virgilius’ Viognier was hand harvested and whole-bunch pressed to small and large seasoned French oak barrels, none new, before being ambient-yeast fermented in the old barrels then maturing ten months on its lees (spent yeast cells) with regular stirring to enhance many aspects in the wine; e.g. increase mouthfeel, heighten palate weight, increase complexity and flavour generosity.

95drink or cellar
Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘Virgilius’ Viognier 2017
Eden Valley $59.95 13.5% alcohol
This is Yalumba’s flagship white wine, kudos to winemaker, Louisa Rose, for waving her magic wand over this stunning Virgilius viognier. It’s naturally dressed in Australia’s colours—gold and green-hued in the glass. Lifted aromas of Indian cooking spice, quince jelly and wisps of honeysuckle abound. The palate’s treated to a medium-plus bodied, generously textured flow of balanced and beautiful ambrosia—lemon curd, quince jelly, white peach and sharp ginger root—persisting through the monumentally long, delectable finish. Food friendly, pour with beef tagine, curried lamb or your favourite spicy lentil recipe. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBD

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘Sanctum’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
South Australia $18.95 (460667) 13.0% alcohol
Earthy, smoky aromas give way to black berry and blueberry and baking spice on the nose of this beauty. A profusion of cranberry and red currant mingles with black pepper-infused, juicy black currant adorned with juicy tang and underpinned by soft ripe tannin. This is medium-full bodied with silky smooth mouthfeel, deft balance, complexity and racy pizzazz. It finishes long and luxurious. It's drinking well now and will on to 2026. Pour with thick, grilled medium-rare, premium-cut beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBD

• Thirty-six percent of the following 2014 Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘The Menzies’ Cabernet Sauvignon matured 20 months in new French 300L hogsheads with the balance in one year and older small and large American, French and Hungarian barrels.

96drink or cellar
Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘The Menzies’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Coonawarra $70.00 14.0% alcohol
The fruit for this wine was sourced from a vineyard of mostly 29-year-old vines found in the heart of Coonawarra’s iconic terra rossa soils and it shows up in the dazzling aromas and delectable flavours. Aromas of peppery spice, floral notes and hints of mint precede a balanced and beautiful shower of palate-flavours—dark bramble berry interwoven with crunchy pomegranate and dark bittersweet chocolate. This showcases persistent purity of fruit, deft balance, a firm structure and a long, dry, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Drink now after a three-hour decant and for the next decade. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBD

• The following 2014 Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘The Octavius – Old Vine’ Shiraz was sourced from vines averaging 71 years with 63% sourced from Barossa Valley, 37% from Eden Valley. Finished wine was matured in 38% new French and American octaves (100 L barrels coopered by Yalumba at their winery cooperage) and 19% one-year-old French barriques (250 L), hogsheads (300 L) and octaves (100 L). Vines from which fruit was sourced for this wine average 100 years old with 61% sourced from Eden Valley and the balance from Barossa Valley.

96cellar
Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘The Octavius – Old Vine’ Shiraz 2015
Barossa $155.00 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of grilled savory herbs, red fruit—plum and currant—interlace with mocha, vanillin and baking spice on the nose. A surge of ripe boysenberry and passionfruit mingle with exotic spice and aniseed on entry meeting up with good weight and generous texture mid-palate and persisting through the extended, balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. This is firmly structured and delectable from cork pop to last drop after a four-hour aeration/decant and poured with seasoned and grilled medium-rare, beef tenderloin steak. This can be easily cellared until 2035. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBD

• Cabernet Sauvignon fruit was sourced for the following 2014 Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘The Caley’ Cabernet Sauvignon – Shiraz from a 2.7 Ha plot of an estate Coonawarra vineyard planted in 1972 now supplying 82% of total fruit for this wine while the 18% Shiraz was sourced from two, old-vine Barossa vineyards with one planted in Eden Valley in 1972 by the late Helen Hill-Smith and the other from a vineyard in the Krondorf area planted 1974.

97drink or cellar
Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘The Caley’ Cabernet Sauvignon - Shiraz 2014
Coonawarra & Barossa $500.00 (537316) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of sprigs of savory herbs, medicinal notes, red and dark berry fruit leap from the glass. It coats the palate with a powerfully structured wash of black currant, dark plum. mint and a ripe, linear streak of tannin framed by tangy acidity. This showcases persistent purity of fruit, good balance, elegance and ageability; good to go now to 2045. It will take years for this to fully reveal itself; patience should be highly rewarded. (Vic Harradine)

Classics Catalogue Release: April 2, 2020

• The following 2017 John Duval Wines ‘Entity’ Shiraz was sourced from 100% old-vine shiraz found in the Krondorf, Eden Valley, Light Pass, Moppa and Ebenezer areas then barrel matured for 15 months, with 32% new, fine-grain 300 L French oak hogsheads and the balance in two-, three- and four-year-old French oak 300L hogsheads.

96drink or cellar
John Duval Wines ‘Entity’ Shiraz 2017
Barossa, South Australia $59.95 (73056) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of red cherry/berry fruit intertwined with mixed spice and floral notes abound on the nose of this fabulous, value-laden shiraz. It wraps around the palate with a medium-bodied, generously textured swath of flavour showcasing crème de cassis, juicy blueberry and wisps of black licorice persisting through the lingering, luscious, balanced and beautiful, finish and aftertaste. Drinking well now and with careful cellaring, good to 2027. (Vic Harradine)

Classics Catalogue Release: September 3, 2020

• The following 2015 John Duval Wines ‘Plexus – Red Blend’ was sourced from old shiraz vines in the in Ebenezer and Krondorf regions, grenache from the Tanunda, Eden valley and Ebenezer regions and mourvèdre from the Light Pass and Ebenezer regions. Fermentation was accomplished with submerged cap in small open-top stainless steel fermenters before 100% barrel maturation for 15 months in 300L French oak fine-grained hogsheads with only 10% new and 90% in well-seasoned, three to six-year-old hogsheads allowing wine to express its lively red and black fruit, crisp tang and fine-grained tannin.

96drink or cellar
John Duval Wines ‘Plexus – Red Blend’ 2015
Barossa Valley, South Australia $54.95 (73049) 14.5% alcohol
This delectable red blend—52% shiraz/32%/grenache/16% mourvèdre—surges over the palate with flavour galore preceded by aromas of floral notes, savoury herbs and red and black berry. Palate flavours of black bramble berry, red currant and pie cherry are underpinned by ripe fine-grained tannin and framed by lip-smacking tang with all persisting through the balanced and beautiful exceptionally lengthy finish and aftertaste. It’s medium bodied with good mouthfeel and good to go now with grilled beef tenderloin or, after careful cellaring, enjoyed after another seven or eight years. (Vic Harradine)

Classics Catalogue Release: October 1, 2020

• The following 2016 John Duval Wines ‘Eligo’ Shiraz is inextricably entwined with its iconic winemaker. This is the best wine that John Duval could fashion after sourcing and then further selecting the best shiraz that Barossa Valley and Eden Valley had to offer this vintage. Meticulous vine and barrel selection and masterful wine blending coalesced with the highly talented John Duval in this, his flagship red wine. It’s 100% shiraz with approximately 65% sourced from Barossa Valley floor and 35% from cooler Eden Valley. It was fermented with submerged cap in small stainless steel fermenters with some batches remaining up to two weeks on their skins. It was then matured in 100% French oak 300L hogsheads for 20 months—50% new and 50% in two and three-year-old hogsheads. A doff of the cap to winemaker extraordinaire, John Duval.

98drink or cellar
John Duval Wines ‘Eligo’ Shiraz 2016
Barossa, South Australia $125.00 (399642) 14.5% alcohol
Dark, almost opaque in the glass, aromas of black Bing cherry, juicy black currant and grilled savoury herbs proliferate on the nose. It cuts a wide swath of balanced, medium-full bodied, generously textured palate flavours—black raspberry, blueberry and wisps of vanilla, charcuterie and earthy notes soaked in delightful tangy acidity and underpinned by still-evolving ripe tannin. This is both graceful and powerful at the same time, it’s drinking beautifully now and will provide additional delightful aromas and flavours with controlled cellaring now to +2025. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

90drink now Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ 2017
VQA St. David’s Bench $19.95 (346742) 13.7% alcohol
This gamay noir ‘droit’ is from the first vinifera vine born in Canada about 40 years ago. This is quite different from a Beaujolais-styled red with a lovely mix of dark and red fruit aromas, a whisper of dry rose petal, sweet smoke and a hint of spice, all without any oak contact. A palate-bathing fresh and smooth wash of dark cherry and blackberry flavours meet mushroom, kirsch notes and a melange of dry herb to frame the savoury dry medium-long finish. This intriguing red is worth every penny for its singular story and enjoyment when paired with roast duck or mushroom risotto. (Louise Boutin)

New in LCBO Portfolio

90drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes ‘Cuvée Michèle’ Pinot Noir 2018
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (454967) 13.0% alcohol
A tribute to Michèle Bosc’s memory—along with her favourite white grape, Aligoté—this new-world styled pinot noir offers an aromatic nose of strawberry coulis, Swedish berry and a bit of earthy tone in the backdrop. This is medium-light bodied with crunchy red fruit acidity a nice little grip of tannin and a dry fruity-savoury finish. There’s excellent value in this pleasing wine. It’s lovely poured with grilled salmon or red tuna sashimi. (Louise Boutin)

91drink now Exceptional Value!
Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘Y series’ Viognier 2017
South Australia $14.95 (470062) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of mixed spice, floral notes, apricot and peel marmalade provide segue to a medium-weight, generously textured wash of delectable flavour coating the palate with apricot, white peach and hints of ginger root persisting through long, luxurious finish. The aftertaste is adorned with grilled pineapple and excellent citrus—lemon curd and Key lime tang. Pour this vegan-friendly beauty on its own or alongside vegan lentil curry or pan-seared freshwater pickerel. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment

To order the following 2017 John Duval Wines ‘Annexus’ Grenache by the case for delivery to your home, office or restaurant, simply order from Breakthru Beverage Group. For assistance with locating or ordering their wines available by the bottle or by the case, you can contact their office at any time at 647-790-0550 option #2 or send an email to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. .

• The following 2017 John Duval Wines ‘Annexus’ Grenache was 90% sourced from ‘ancestor’ vines—over 150 years old—in the Eden Valley with the balance harvested from gnarled, old bush vines on the floor of the northern Barossa Valley. Fruit, including a small number of whole bunches, was fermented in small open-top fermenters then 100% barrel matured in older 300L hogshead French oak barrels. The making and raison d’être of this wine are easily assessed—it’s sourced from some of the best and oldest grenache vines in Barossa… period. Only 250 cases were made.

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John Duval Wines ‘Annexus’ Grenache 2017
Barossa, South Australia $84.95 13.5% alcohol
This juicy delectable gem is sourced from some of the best, oldest grenache vines in the Barossa that were made into wine by one of Australia’s iconic winemakers, John Duval. Aromas of roses, fennel and spice waft easily from this medium-weight, satin-smooth grenache. It captures the palate with a lively, juicy stream of palate flavours with bramble berry, red cherry and crunchy red currant to the fore adorned with baking spice, savoury and gamy notes. It replays palate flavours on the dry, lengthy, mouth-watering finish. Pour with slow- and low-cooked lamb shoulder and roasted root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Taste Ontario March 2, 2020

• Order wines online from Bachelder for delivery to your home, office or restaurant.

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Bachelder ‘Les Villages’ Gamay Noir 2017
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $22.95 12.5% alcohol
On the nose, a pleasant hint of violet mingles with aromas of blackberry, raspberry, earthy mushroom and spice. Dry, medium-light bodied with a soft, juicy mouthfeel, ripe dark cherry and strawberry jam flavours are lifted by lively acidity while delicate floral and mineral notes persist through the medium-long finish. Enjoy with a charcuterie platter. (Lisa Isabelle)

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Bachelder ‘Les Villages’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.00 12.5 % alcohol
This cool-climate pinot noir layers tart red fruit with sweet pipe tobacco, leather and spice aromas. Dry, medium bodied, the delicate palate gently offers tangy cranberry and raspberry flavours framed by bright acidity and gentle tannins. A hint of spice appears on the mid-length finish. Pair with roasted pork tenderloin. (Lisa Isabelle)

• Order wine online from Charles Baker for delivery to your home, office or restaurant

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Charles Baker ‘B-Side’ Riesling 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.00 10.5% alcohol
Aromas of lime zest, red apple, petrol and floral notes unleash a wave of tart citrus, orchard fruit and mineral flavours on the palate. This dry, light bodied, good-value offering has a crisp and clean texture and finishes long with mouth-cleansing tang. A refreshing hit of lime appears on the aftertaste. Serve with fish tacos. (Lisa Isabelle)

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Charles Baker ‘Ivan Vineyard’ Riesling 2017
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $27.00 11.4% alcohol
A shy nose slowly reveals aromas of Granny Smith apple, tart citrus, petrol and a mineral note. Dry, medium-light bodied and nicely balanced with well-defined acidity, ripe yellow apple, lime and mineral flavours are carried into the clean-tasting finish. Enjoy with a ham and Gruyere grilled cheese sandwich. (Lisa Isabelle)

• Purchase the following by the case for home, office or restaurant delivery online from Between the Lines Winery

88drink now Oh Canada!
Between the Lines ‘Outset’ Sparkling Wine Non Vintage
VQA Ontario $4.65 (493304) 250 mL 10.0% alcohol
Here’s a different approach to traditional sparkling. This 100% vidal was fashioned charmat method with a kiss of ice wine and comes in a convenient 250 ml festive can. Easy to drink with pear, peach and honey aromas and flavours, it takes a nice dry twist on the thirst-quenching finish and mineral aftertaste. Delicious to sip on its own or to use in cocktails, it’s sure to please the most diverse crowd. Custom private-labelling is also available through GenesisWineGroup. (Louise Boutin)

• Order wine online by the case from Creekside Estate Winery for delivery to your home, office or restaurant.

88drink now Oh Canada!
Creekside ‘Backyard Sauvignon Blanc’ Bubbly 2018
VQA Creek Shores $25.00 13.5% alcohol
This sparkling sauvignon blanc was made in the Charmat method with a second fermentation in a tank prior to bottling. The grape’s varietal character is preserved with green apple, pink grapefruit, guava and fresh grass aromas tickling the nose before surging over the fresh and fruity palate. Medium-light bodied and barely off-dry, enjoy this refreshing sparkler on the patio this summer. (Lisa Isabelle)

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Creekside ‘Broken Press’ Syrah 2016
VQA St. David’s Bench $55.00 13.5 % alcohol
Primarily syrah, co-fermented with a touch of viognier, all sourced from the Queenston Road vineyard, spent 10 months in new French oak barrels prior to release. Dark fruit aromas adorned with tobacco, violet, baking spice and black pepper waft easily from the glass. Waves of rich, well-ripened plum and blackberry flavours wash over the palate before mingling with anise and a touch of piquant spice. Dry, medium-full bodied with fine-grained tannins, pure dark fruit flavours linger on the impressive finish. (Lisa Isabelle)

• Order the following two wines for delivery to your home, office or restaurant by the case online from Flat Rock Cellars.

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2018
VQA Twenty Mile Bench (286278) $19.95 13.0% alcohol
This Vintages Essentials, cool-climate chardonnay is produced with hand-picked and hand-sorted grapes, fermented with natural yeast in barrel and spent about 12 months in French oak, 23% new, prior to bottling. Aromas of red apple, peach and pear with hints of honeysuckle and spice repeat on the tasty palate. Dry, medium-light bodied with a clean texture, ripe orchard fruit flavours and a citrus note flow into the medium-long finish. Enjoy this value-laden white with roast chicken. (Lisa Isabelle)

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2018
VQA Twenty Mile Bench (43281) $17.95 11.1% alcohol (on sale for $15.95 until March 29)
There’s great value in this Vintages Essentials riesling. The expressive nose opens with apple, nectarine and tangy citrus aromas adorned with ginger and a pleasant floral note. Medium-light bodied, crisp and nicely-textured, vibrant acidity is tamed with a touch of sweetness giving the impression it’s barely off-dry. Stone fruit and ripe apple flavours infuse the medium-long, lip-smacking finish. Pair with spicy grilled sausages. (Lisa Isabelle)

Order the following two wines for delivery to your home, office or restaurant by the case online from Hidden Bench Estate Winery.

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Hidden Bench Estate Winery ‘Estate’ Riesling 2017
VQA Beamsville Bench $24.95 10.5% alcohol
Tart citrus, orchard fruit, white flowers and a defined mineral note emerge from the glass of this well-balanced, slightly off-dry, certified-organic riesling. The palate features riper fruit flavours—apple, pear and lemon—balanced by mouth-watering acidity. Grapefruit and lime zest flavours last into the medium-long, vibrant finish. Enjoy with curried chicken kebabs. (Lisa Isabelle)

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Hidden Bench Fumé Blanc 2017
VQA Beamsville Bench (68825) $29.95 13.0% alcohol
This tasty sauvignon blanc, fermented in both French oak barrel, 23% new, and stainless steel, displays enticing aromas of tart green apple, lemon zest, hay and a flinty mineral note. Citrus fruit and apple flavours bathe the lively palate joined by subtle mineral and spice notes. Dry, medium-light bodied, it’s nicely textured and offers a lengthy, refreshing finish. This would complement a smoked salmon appetizer. (Lisa Isabelle)

• Order the following two wines by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario online from Huff Estates or pick up from the winery in Bloomfield, Prince Edward County.

90drink now Oh Canada!
Huff Estates ‘Cuvée Janine’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $30.00 12.5% alcohol
This 100% pinot noir traditional-method sparkling is a treat for the senses. Strawberry, raspberry, rhubarb and bread crumb aromas on the nose, it follows with tart red cherry, cranberry and laurel on the palate. Twenty months of ageing on its lees adds complexity and texture to the dry, tart and savoury long finish. Pour alongside a tomato-watermelon and feta cheese salad. (Louise Boutin)

89drink now Oh Canada!
Huff Estates ‘Off dry’ Riesling 2018
VQA Ontario $18.00 (155606) 11.5% alcohol
This is an expressive off-dry riesling with petroleum aromas taking the lead and discrete orchard fruit notes peeking through. A pleasant round mouthfeel carries flavours of ripe pear, peach, pink grapefruit and exotic spice transitioning mid-palate to an almost dry finish with lots of tanginess and minerality. Save this one for your sushi night. (Louise Boutin)

• You can order this wine by the case for delivery to your home, office or restaurant online from Karlo Estates Winery.

89drink now Oh Canada!
Karlo Estates ‘Patio Reserve’ Rosé 2017
VQA Ontario $20.00 11.5% alcohol
This is an interesting blend of 94% sémillon and 6% estate grown malbec presented in a curvy bottle dressed with a feminine sash-like label. The nose is a harmonious mélange of sweet orchard and red fruit with floral and savoury notes. Despite its small proportion in the blend, malbec seems to take the lead on the palate as tart cherry and strawberry with a sweet touch of residual sugar transitions to a dry finish with savoury herb aftertaste. Easy to sip on its own, it’s also a great match with tomato and fresh basil bruschetta. (Louise Boutin)

• The following four Meldville wines are available by the case for delivery to your home, office or restaurant by contacting owner/winemaker Derek Barnett directly by email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

92drink now Oh Canada!
Meldville Cabernet Franc 2016
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $27.00 13.5% alcohol
Ontario cabernet franc shines in all its splendor in this wine from skilled winemaker Derek Barnett’s own label. A complex nose—ripe black fruit, anise, tobacco and charred green bell pepper—set the table for palate-bathing flavours of ripe dark cherry, blackberry, bright raspberry and bay leaf wrapped in noticeable, acceptable polished tannin. There’s 20 months of French old-barrel maturation in this medium-full bodied beauty and it will only get better with a few more years of cellaring or pour now after two hours of aeration/decant. Pour alongside grilled gourmet sausage or stuffed eggplant. (Louise Boutin)

92drink now Oh Canada!
Meldville Cabernet Franc 2016
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $27.00 13.5% alcohol
Ontario cabernet franc shines in all its splendor in this wine from skilled winemaker Derek Barnett’s own label. A complex nose—ripe black fruit, anise, tobacco and charred green bell pepper—set the table for palate-bathing flavours of ripe dark cherry, blackberry, bright raspberry and bay leaf wrapped in noticeable, acceptable polished tannin. There’s 20 months of French old-barrel maturation in this medium-full bodied beauty and it will only get better with a few more years of cellaring or pour now after two hours of aeration/decant. Pour alongside grilled gourmet sausage or stuffed eggplant. (Louise Boutin)

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2018
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $20.00 12.5 % alcohol
Lifted aromas of lemon-lime, apple peel, hay and a mineral note introduce a pleasant wash of citrus and orchard fruit seasoned with fresh, savoury herbs. Dry, medium-light bodied and nicely weighted, it spent 2 and a half month on its lees, apple, tangy citrus and mineral flavours unfold into the prolonged finish. (Lisa Isabelle)

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Meldville Wines Chardonnay 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.00 13.0 % alcohol
Aged ten and a half months in old French oak barrels before bottling, this fine offering opens with aromas of apple, spice, toasted brioche, a hint of caramel and a mineral note which replay, gently coating the nicely-textured palate. Dry, medium bodied and well-balanced, it finishes medium long with a pleasant suggestion of grapefruit pith appearing in the aftertaste. Enjoy with pan-seared rainbow trout. (Lisa Isabelle)

• Order these wines by the case online at Reif Estate Winery for delivery to your home, office or restaurant.

88drink now Oh Canada!
Reif Pinot Grigio 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.15 13.0% alcohol
This is a medium-light bodied white with pear, yellow apple, powdery sugar and floral aromas to the fore. There are fruit aroma replays on the palate with an addition of honey notes and mild almond bitterness in the finish and aftertaste making this an excellent partner to light fare and salted munchies. Drink now. (Louise Boutin)

90drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Reif Sauvignon Blanc 2017
VQA Niagara River $14.95 13.0% alcohol
Very mineral on the first sniff then more complex aromas—fresh thyme, starfruit, hay and mild flint—show up after a good swirl. It’s fresh and crisp on the palate with the starfruit acidity affirming its presence, along with green apple flavour and delicious mineral notes trailing in the dry zesty finish. Pair with pan-fried calamari sprinkled with fleur de sel. (Louise Boutin)

91drink now Oh Canada!
Reif ‘Magician’ Pinot Shiraz 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.15 14.5% alcohol
This is a deep-ruby unusual blend of 80% shiraz (20% kiln-dried) and 20% kiln-dried pinot noir, It’s all hand-harvested then fermented in new and old French oak for eight months. The end result is complex and highly aromatic bwith ripe dark fruit, licorice, tobacco, mocha and peppery notes introduce juicy flavours of ripe blackberry, dark cherry, bitter chocolate and a trail of savoury and peppery notes painting the dry and long delicious finish. Excellent integration of alcohol and firm, yet fine-grained tannin add to the enjoyment of this medium-full bodied appassimento-inspired red. This is a treat to pair with braised beef short-ribs or a selection of aged cheese. Aerate/decant two hours before service. (Louise Boutin)

• Available through Reif Estate Winery, these wines are from Andrea Kaiser—Reif’s longtime marketing director—whose wish to honour her father’s legacy becomes a reality under Drea’s wine label.

89drink now Oh Canada!
Drea’s Sauvignon Blanc 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.70 12.5% alcohol
There are loads of ripe gooseberry aromas along with citrus and a hint of flinty charm on the nose of this cool-climate sauvignon blanc. It’s bright and crisp on the palate with more gooseberry, juicy white grapefruit and a beautiful white pepper note emerging and adding interest to the clean and dry, yummy finish. Excellent on its own, it’s also delicious matched with prosciutto-wrapped asparagus on the grill. (Louise Boutin)

88drink now Oh Canada!
Drea’s Rosé 2019
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.70 12.5% alcohol
This is 100% dornfelder, a German-born grape commonly used in red blends and happily growing in Ontario. An attractive nose—candied red fruit—strawberry and blackberry—introduces a refreshing wave of palate-flavours with red tart cherry, sweet raspberry and a delicious astringent rhubarb note offering a dry lip-smacking pleasant finish. This medium-light bodied rosé calls for a charcuterie board with pickled onions and gourmet mustards. (Louise Boutin)

• You can order this wine by the case for delivery to your home, office or restaurant online from Rockway Vineyards.

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot’ Riesling 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.00 10.5% alcohol
Aromas of peach, pear, tangerine and a mineral note bound from the glass before cascading over the tangy palate. It’s medium-light bodied and off-dry with an abundance of sweet citrus and fleshy orchard fruit flavours which are enjoyed into the generous, mouth-watering finish. Serve alongside a spicy shrimp stir-fry. (Lisa Isabelle)

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $25.00 13.5 % alcohol
This chardonnay was fermented in barrel with wild yeast and spent 9 months in French oak, 10% new, before bottling. The nose reveals Gala apple and lemon aromas adorned with accents of buttered brioche, white flowers and spice. Dry, medium-light bodied and nicely-textured, flavours of lemon curd, baked apple and spice endure though the mid-plus length finish. Enjoy with pumpkin ravioli in a light cream sauce. (Lisa Isabelle)

• Order wine online by the case from Sue Ann Staff for delivery to your home, office or restaurant.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Sue Ann Staff ‘Chestnut Tree’ Cabernet Franc 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 13.0 % alcohol
This delicious cabernet franc spent 22 months in French and American oak before bottling. The fragrant nose presents plums, blackberry and cherry aromas entwined with cocoa, herbs, spice and a hint of graphite. Dry, medium-full bodied with silky tannins, the fruit-focused palate displays ripe dark fruit backed by bay leaves and nuances of smoke and vanilla. Enjoy with roasted guinea fowl or eggplant parmesan. (Lisa Isabelle)

Cheers, Lisa, Louise, Dave, Vic