February 18, 2020 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights include:
Louise Boutin and Lisa Isabelle attended the Canadian Culinary Championship in Ottawa and we hope you did, too. If you did or you didn’t, their comments and wine reviews are not to be missed. There is even a ‘behind-the-scenes’ kitchen video of the 12 chefs preparing their dish for the competition. Read and see much more here.
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The final winery visited by Vic in New Zealand was the iconic Felton Road Wines in the Central Otago wine region. They were amongst early pioneers in this now well-known pinot noir wine region and are a Demeter-certified organic/bio dynamic winery and grower. 
Vic tasted most recently in Australia in the cool-climate Adelaide Hills at the family-owned winery of Sidewood Estate. Vic was shown through their pristine vineyards after tasting a superb selection of their fine wines, chosen and poured by owner, Owen Inglis. They are a much heralded winery with high praise, medals and trophies from around the globe. - Exceptional-value wine
– 8 of the 31 wines in this newsletter meet strict quality-price guidelines. The wines range from $14.95 to $44.95 and are easily identified throughout the newsletter via the value checkmark above with even more found in the New Zealand Feature and the Australia Feature. - 95 points and over – Five wines rang the 95 points and over bell with two from Felton Road Wines in Central Otago, New Zealand—their 2018 Felton Road Wines ‘Calvert’ Pinot Noir earned 95 points at $68.00 and their 2018 Felton Road Wines ‘Block 5’ Pinot Noir earned 96 points at $89.00 while Sidewood Estates had three; their vintage-dated 2015 ‘Cassandra – Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine earned 97 points at $49.95; their 2017 Sidewood Estate ‘Mappinga Vineyard’ Chardonnay earned 96 points at $34.95 and their 2018 Sidewood Estate ‘777’ Pinot Noir earned 95 points at $37.95. These five wine reviews can all be accessed through the New Zealand Feature and the Australia Feature.
- Louise Loves – 2016 Malivoire ‘Stouck’ Merlot earned 91 points at $34.95 found under ‘New in Ontario Wineries’; 2017 Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le grand Clos’ Chardonnay earned 95 points @ $44.95; 2018 KIN Carp Ridge Chardonnay earned 92 points @ $39.95 with both found under ‘Wines Tasted at Canadian Culinary Championship’.
- Vic Picks – 2015 Beringer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon earned 93 points at $59.95 found under California: Red Wine; 2017 Sidewood Estate Shiraz earned 93 points at $18.95 found under ‘Upstream in Winecurrent’.
Vintages Release: February 22, 2020
Fortified Wine: Port
90
Burmester 10-Year-Old Tawny Port Non-Vintage
DOC Douro $29.95 (223958) 20.0% alcohol
Aromatic and extremely versatile, this is also food friendly with a long, delicious, sweet aftertaste. Spice cake, iodine and orange marmalade on the nose, it bathes the palate with round fleshy flavours—toffee apple, crème caramel and toasted almonds. Tawny Port gains its name from the tawny colour from many years aged in barrel—resolving tannin and imparting a silky-smooth, lip-smacking experience. Lovely on its own, serve slightly chilled with consommé, fruit cake or amarelo cheese. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
91
Megalomaniac ‘Bubblehead’ Sparkling Rosé Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (363655) 13.0% alcohol
Attractive aromas of freshly sliced strawberry and baking bread introduce this dry, Pinot Noir-based, traditional-method sparkler. It slashes across the palate and infuses the aftertaste with a sleek and austere line of racy, ruby red grapefruit and red currant tang. Give it a go with ceviche or poached oysters. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
93
Beringer ‘Luminus’ Chardonnay 2017
Oak Knoll, California $44.95 (395699) 14.0% alcohol
Tropical fruit and mixed spice aromas open this medium-plus bodied, generously textured beauty. A palate-enveloping surge of spice-infused melon and lemon-lime with sharp mineral notes keep this tangy, crisp and refreshing from cork pop to last drop. A monumentally long finish replays palate flavours. Give this a go with pan-seared or grilled seafood or beer-can chicken. (Vic Harradine)
89
Conundrum White 2016
California $18.95 (694653) 13.2%
The exact blend in this value-packed fun and refreshing wine is a closely held secret, but winemaker, Jon Bolta, claims that each vintage contains, at least, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, semillon and muscat canelli. The nose is dominated by aromas of lychee and peach and underpinned with a layer of minerality. It’s medium bodied on the palate with juicy flavours of apple and orange. It’s a great summer sipper. (Dave Isaacs)
California: Red Wine
93
Beringer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Oak Knoll, California $59.95 (91058) 14.0% alcohol
Dark cherry, caramel and black plum aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of palate flavours showcasing rich, ripe and beautifully balanced red cherry and black bramble berry decorated with notions of mint, blueberry and cassis that’s underpinned by soft ripe tannin. This is medium-full bodied with satin smooth mouthfeel and delightful tang. It’s drinking beautifully now and is looking for a dance partner at the table… give it a go with rare-grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
90
Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (164228) 13.0% alcohol
Plenty of grassy character plus ripe pineapple, mango and celery aromas with this classic kiwi sauvignon blanc. You’ll find lots of zesty lime acidity with green apple and lemongrass flavours to enjoy. True to its style, this medium-bodied white is a hit with scallop ceviche or fresh asparagus wrapped in prosciutto and cooked on the grill. (Louise Boutin)
South Africa: Red Wine
91 
Avondale ‘Jonty's Ducks Pekin’ Red 2014
WO Paarl $16.95 (383547) 14.0% alcohol
Made from organically grown vines, using ducks to control pests and fermented using natural yeasts, this wine is pure pleasure. It’s dark cherry, almost opaque, with an enticing nose of pepper, dried herbs and cassis aromas. It’s medium bodied on the palate with juicy flavours of cherry, plum and raspberry. There’s good balance of acidity and strong but smoothly integrated tannins. It’s ready to enjoy today along with stewed meats and hard cheese or keep in the cellar until 2022. (Dave Isaacs)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: Summer or early fall, 2020
• The following 2017 Sidewood Estate Shiraz was sourced from premium, cool-climate estate fruit at approximately 380 meters a.s.l., yielding approximately 3.2 tonnes per acre and almost immediately chilled in the winery cool room with partial whole bunch and whole berry extended maceration of two to three weeks. It was wild yeast and barrel fermented in 100% French oak, 25% new, then matured 18 months before meticulous barrel tastings and selection before bottling.
93
Sidewood Estate Shiraz 2017
Adelaide Hills, Australia $18.95 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark cherry/berry fruit, mocha, vanilla and wisps of gamy notes waft easily from this medium-plus bodied, divinely flavoured gem. It coats the palate with full-Monty flavours of black cherry and bramble berry interwoven with white pepper, sweet vanilla and nuances of dark, bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium-full bodied with deft balance of sweet, ripe fruit and excellent tang and acidity, especially apparent mid palate, along with another surge of ripe dark cherry/berry fruit persisting through the lingering, luscious, balanced and creamy-smooth finish. In a word… delicious. Sip now to 2027 or pour with grilled rack of lamb or medium-rare grilled New York striploin. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release Dates TBD
90
Domaine Courtois ‘La Source’ Côtes-du-Rhône 2019
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $14.95 (526640) 14.5% alcohol
This is another very good vintage for this youthful bright purple-shaded blend of 85% grenache and 15% syrah fresh out of the stainless steel tank. It’s an explosion of mixed berry character both on the nose and palate with a zesty tang, lots of young fine-grained tannin and graphite minerality. Medium-full bodied with excellent alcohol integration, it’s good to go now with braised beef and carrot roast or rare-grilled steak and will get better with a few more months of careful cellaring. Aerate/decant one hour before meal time. (Louise Boutin)
90
Domaine Jaume Côtes-du-Rhône 2019
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $14.95 14.0% alcohol
There was no oak contact in this 70% grenache/20% syrah/10% mourvèdre blend. It fills the air with aromas of black plum, raspberry, rose water and a hint of cinnamon. Nice and soft on the palate, this medium-full bodied red is aligned on flavours and aromas and offers a good backbone of chalky tannin leading to a dry, fruit-forward and piquant finish. Aerate/decant an hour or two then enjoy with tourtière or ratatouille. (Louise Boutin)
92
Courtois ‘La Grange’ Vinsobres 2016
AOC Vinsobres $16.95 (526632) 14.5% alcohol
This is a blend of 55% grenache and 45% syrah was hand-harvested from 30-year-old vines and partially matured four months in used oak barrels. Black plum and blueberry fraternize with potpourri and cedar aromas on the nose. A fresh wash of ripe black fruit flavour floods the palate along with notes of kirsch liqueur before morphing into a full savoury delight with dry sage and peppery notes. Polished tannin and excellent alcohol integration ensure an elegant finish, mouthfeel and aftertaste. Pair with eggplant parmigiana. Aerate/decant one hour before service. (Louise Boutin)
90
Vaucher Père et Fils Fleurie 2018
AOC Fleurie, Beaujolais $17.95 (534339) 13.0% alcohol
Don’t expect bubble gum or banana aromas from this medium-bodied Beaujolais cru, but rather red cherry compote, raspberry, fresh rose petal and a peppery note. It is fresh and vivid on the palate with tangy flavours of cherry, cranberry and pomegranate toned down with an earthy note and mellow, medium tannin. This is a perfect match with baked ham or red tuna sashimi. (Louise Boutin)
90
Valpanera Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso 2018
DOC Friuli $15.95 (10080) 12.5% alcohol
This is medium bodied and it’s crafted with the red-stem Refosco grape that thrives in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region of northern Italy. Black fruit, tobacco leaf and a subtle floral note peek through the alluring nose. The mouthfeel is pleasantly fresh and soft with sappy ripe blackberry and black plum flavours followed with a suggestion of dry sage and oregano, painting a delicious savoury finish. This food-friendly red will shine next to a traditional lasagna or spaghetti Bolognese. (Louise Boutin)
90
Agriverde ‘Eikos’ 2017
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 13.5% alcohol
There’s plenty to say about this organic- and vegan-certified, deep-ruby coloured gem from southern Italy; it’s vegan because no animal product—such as albumin or casein—was used to fine the wine before bottling; it’s made from 100% montepulciano grape growing almost exclusively in the Abruzzo region, nothing to do with the picturesque commune of Montepulciano in Tuscany; but most importantly, it’s delicious. A nose of ripe blackberry, sweet date, baking spice and tobacco leaf introduces a silky soft flow of mixed berry and black plum flavours joined with fine chalky tannin, savoury herb and an earthy character in the finish. Enjoy with tomato-based pasta or gourmet pizza. (Louise Boutin)
New in Ontario Wineries
• For daily home, office or restaurant delivery for the following two wines, order online from Malivoire Wine Company or visit the winery to purchase by the bottle or case at 4260 King Street East, Beamsville, ON. Here’s a map.
92
Malivoire ‘Mottiar’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Beamsville Bench $34.95 12.0% alcohol
Sourced from hand-harvested fruit grown on a former pear orchard and a tribute to Shiraz Mottiar, Malivoire’s winemaker, this medium-bodied chardonnay fills the air with aromas of yellow plum, white peach, fresh fennel and flinty-minerality notes. Expect delicious flavours of ripe pear, yellow apple wrapped in a round mouthfeel, quickly caught-up with lemon curd notes and chalky minerality prolonging the perfectly balanced, vanilla-flavoured dry finish. Pour now to 2022 alongside a cheese fondue. (Louise Boutin)
91
Malivoire ‘Stouck’ Merlot 2016
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $34.95 13.5% alcohol
This 100% merlot, sourced from mature vines, offers an intense nose of ripe dark cherry and blueberry, layered with notes of tobacco, wild mushroom and dry mint. A cool flow of juicy ripe black fruit flavours shuffles to a delicious savoury profile—dry herb, green bell pepper, cocoa powder and a soft peppery note shining in the dry finish and aftertaste. This food-friendly medium-bodied red aged 18 months in a combination of new and used French and American oak barrels and is delicious with roast duck or pot roast. Aerate/decant an hour or two before service. (Louise Boutin)
Wines Tasted at Canadian Culinary Championship
Louise Boutin and Lisa Isabelle attended the Canadian Culinary Championship in Ottawa and we hope you did, too. If you did or you didn’t, their comments and wine reviews are not to be missed. There is even a ‘behind-the-scenes’ kitchen video of the 12 chefs preparing their dish for the competition. Read and see much more here.
• Order the following Huff Estates wine by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario online from Huff Estates or pick up from the winery in Bloomfield, Prince Edward County.
91
Huff Estates ‘South Bay’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $40.00 12.0% alcohol
This is a gorgeous medium-light bodied pinot presenting with fragrant red cherry compote aromas mingling with baking spice and dry laurel. Twelve months of French oak maturation with only 10% new, was just enough to bring all elements together. The result is harmonious with red fruit tartness and savoury flavours framed in polished tannin pleasing the palate all the way to the dry medium-long finish. Pour alongside seared red tuna. (Louise Boutin)
Order the following Le Clos Jordanne wine online from the winery or pick up a case from the winery at 2738 King Street, Jordan Station, at the T-junction of Jordan Road and Highway 81.
• The following 2017 Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Grand Clos’ Chardonnay is about as close as it gets to Burgundy-style premium chardonnay that’s not from Burgundy. It was accomplished when outstanding fruit quality, unique terroir and highly skilled winemaker, Thomas Bachelder, coalesced like angels dancing on the head of a pin.
95
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Grand Clos’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $44.95 (184549) 13.0% alcohol
The rich aromas of ripe peach, apricot, light butterscotch, vanilla and a freshly cut fennel note announce a treat for the palate. No deception here, with a creamy-textured flow of exquisite flavours— ripe orchard fruit, lemon curd and crème brûlée—traveling the palate without heaviness and developing a comforting warmth on the back palate before offering marzipan, vanilla and savoury notes in the long delectable finish. This is a delight to sip on its own now and will only improve over the next ten years. Coquille St-Jacques or baked Brie are inspired pairings. (Louise Boutin)
• Order the following Karlo Estates wine directly online for home, restaurant or office delivery.
90
Karlo Estates ‘Three Witches’ 2018
VQA Ontario $20.00 12.5% alcohol
This blend of 50% sauvignon blanc and 25% of each sémillon and gewürztraminer, showcases lovely floral aromas—sweet pear, tropical fruit and honeydew melon. It coats the palate with delicious creamy ripe pineapple and peach flavours before switching gears with tangy passionfruit and crisp green apple along with a chalky minerality extending in the pleasant, dry and balanced finish. This is medium bodied and totally enjoyable on its own or with a variety of dishes such as butternut squash ravioli or ham, asparagus and cheese crepes. (Louise Boutin)
• Order directly online from KIN Vineyards and have wines delivered to your home, office or restaurant door.
92
KIN ‘Carp Ridge’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Ontario $39.95 13.0% alcohol
A blend of three different chardonnay clones grown on the Carp ridge, fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged 10 months in French oak, 18% new, make-up the second vintage of this elegant white. A lactic whiff fills the air before a good swirl unveils a cocktail of beautiful peach, ripe pear, buttered popcorn and white flower aromas. This is medium-bodied and it glides on the palate carrying delicious flavours of stone fruit, lemon yogurt, roasted almond, vanilla and a nice saline note showing-up in the dry and clean finish. Perfectly balanced with an excellent dose of acidity, it will improve over the next eight to ten years. Pair with baked, lemon-butter cod loin. (Louise Boutin)
90
KIN ‘Carp Ridge’ Pinot Noir 2018
VQA Ontario $44.95 11.5% alcohol
This is KIN’s first pinot noir vintage crafted with 100% hand-harvested fruit grown on the Carp ridge, neighbour of the famous Diefenbunker museum. This is a pale-garnet shaded and medium-light bodied red with loads of red cherry and cranberry aromas plus savoury herb and hint of spice in the background. In addition to red fruit flavours, notes of rhubarb show up mid-palate along with a nice grip of tannin bringing desired structure to a mouth-watering tart and savoury balanced finish. Nine months of maturation in a combination of new and neutral French oak with a portion of the blend aged in stainless steel, added complexity and softness while preserving the fruit liveliness in the wine. It has about five years of ageing potential and it’s beautiful and versatile now paired with grilled salmon, turkey meat pie with pickled beets, or charcuterie board. (Louise Boutin)
• Order the following two wines directly online from Stratus and have them delivered to your home, office or restaurant.
90
Stratus White 2016
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $39.00 13.1% alcohol
This is a medium-full bodied blend of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier, sémillon and gewürztraminer getting along perfectly after a cohabitation of 627 days in French oak, 11% new. A combination of orchard and tropical fruit plus buttered-popcorn aromas draped in delicate vanilla scent charms the nose. Flavours of peach, yellow apple, pineapple and baking spice glide over the palate with harmony developing a comforting warmth and balancing citrus acidity before ending on subtle vanilla and honey notes. This is good to go now to 2030 on its own or with sea-salt dusted almonds or with butter chicken. (Louise Boutin)
91
Stratus ‘Weather Report’ Cabernet Franc 2016
VQA Niagara-on-the Lake $29.00 12.7% alcohol
Cabernet franc thrives in the Niagara and this one, from an excellent vintage, is a perfect example. Loads of ripe red cherry aromas, plus cassis, tobacco leaf, green bell pepper and a whiff of licorice float in the air. Palate and nose are aligned here in a medium-bodied red, aged almost 18 months in French oak, 19% new, offering an excellent dose of red fruit acidity and chalky tannin. The finish is deliciously savoury with a mineral touch making it an ideal partner to pork osso buco or stuffed bell pepper. Aerate/decant one hour before service. (Louise Boutin)
• Purchase the following four wines online from Domaine Quelus for delivery to your home, office or restaurant or pick up from the winery at 3651 Sixteen Rd, Saint Anns, ON L0R 1Y0, Phone first +1 905-562-7474 … here’s a map.
91
Domaine Queylus ‘Tradition’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $27.95 13.0% alcohol
This wine is fermented with indigenous yeast and aged in French oak barrels, 20% new, for about 18 months before bottling. Pronounced aromas of tangerine, poached pear and peach garnished with baking spice, vanilla and a mineral note leap from the glass. Dry, medium bodied with bright acidity, flavours of tangy citrus and Gala apple coat the nicely-textured palate, joined by a hint of spice and a chalky mineral note on the extended finish. Pair with poached salmon with a lemon-butter sauce. (Lisa Isabelle)
93
Domaine Queylus ‘Limited Edition’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $75.00 13.5% alcohol
Two carefully selected barrels were blended to produce this special offering. The wine was fermented with indigenous yeast and aged approximately 18 months in French oak, 20% new, prior to bottling. The subtle nose slowly reveals an array of enticing aromas: red apple, grapefruit rind, Asian pear with hints of baking spice and marzipan. Flavours of apple and pear envelope the palate while a mineral note and a hint of wildflower honey permeate the medium-long finish. Enjoy this dry, medium-light bodied, well-crafted chardonnay with pistachio-crusted halibut. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Domaine Queylus Cabernet Franc ‘Reserve’ 2017
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $37.95 13.0% alcohol
Predominantly cabernet franc with a touch of merlot, dark plum and blackberry aromas unite with nuances of tobacco leaf, rosemary, spice and smoke on the nose of this dry, medium-full bodied red. Plums, redcurrant, dried herbs and spice flavours bathe the palate and extend into the medium-long finish. Well balanced with refreshing acidity and pleasantly grippy tannins, enjoy with grilled leg of lamb. (Lisa Isabelle)
92
Domaine Queylus Merlot ‘La Grande Reserve’ 2017
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $49.95 13.5% alcohol
Red and dark plums, cherry and blueberry aromas garnished with notions of sweet pipe tobacco, chocolate and rose petal notes open this dry, medium-full bodied blend of 86% merlot and 14% cabernet franc. Dry, medium-full bodied with silky tannins, the palate boasts juicy, ripe plums and cherries, savoury herbs, earth and spice notes. Enjoy this well-structured red with grilled venison filet. (Lisa Isabelle)
• Purchase the following two wines online from Two Sisters Vineyards for delivery to your home, office or restaurant or pick up from the winery at 240 John Street East, Niagara-on-the-Lake ... here’s a map.
91
Two Sisters Vineyards ‘Unoaked Chardonnay’ 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $38.80 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of lemon curd, peach, orchard blossom and red apple skin are showcased on the nose of this pleasing chardonnay, fermented and aged in stainless steel. Dry, medium-light bodied with a slightly creamy texture, orchard fruit and citrus flavours prevail on the palate while a touch of honeysuckle appears on the lengthy finish. Pour this well-crafted white alongside pan-seared scallops with a spritz of lemon. (Lisa Isabelle)
92
Two Sisters Vineyards ‘Eleventh Post’ 2016
VQA Niagara River $42.80 14.0% alcohol
This blend of 72% merlot, 16% cabernet sauvignon and 12% cabernet franc estate-grown grapes spent 3.5 years in predominantly French oak barrels, 15% new, and opens with an intense nose of dark cherry-berry aromas with notions of chocolate, leather, mint and thyme. Dry, medium bodied with apparent tannins, pure dark fruit flavours of blackberry, cherry and plum shine on the mouth-watering palate adorned with savoury herbs, earth and mineral notes. Pair with beef pot pie. (Lisa Isabelle)
• Purchase the following two wines online from Potters Settlement for delivery to your home, office or restaurant or pick up from the winery at 1445 Potter Settlement Rd, Tweed, ON. , Phone first: +1 613 478 1478 here’s a map.
90
Potter Settlement Marquette 2017
Product of Canada $50.00 12.0% alcohol
Produced with the winter-hardy, disease- and pest-resistant marquette grape, this wine was fashioned with a Tasmanian yeast stain and 10% of the wine was aged in American oak, the remainder in stainless steel. The nose offers dark cherry, blackberry jam and raspberry aromas adorned with dark chocolate, tea leaves, piquant spice and earth. Dry, medium bodied and silky smooth, enlivened with balancing acidity, there’s an abundance of red and dark fruit flavours on the palate joined by hints of earth and spice which extend through the leisurely finish. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Potter Settlement Cabernet Franc 2018
Product of Canada $40.00 12.1% alcohol
Made with a particular yeast stain sourced from Bordeaux, the nose gently unfolds with aromas of black raspberry, plum and red currant garnished with accents of sweet pipe tobacco, dark chocolate and bay leaf and a mineral underpinning. The palate features juicy red fruit, with hints of herbs and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied and nicely structured, the refreshing red fruit flavours and a mineral note last into the medium-long finish. (Lisa Isabelle)
Cheers, Louise, Lisa, Dave, Vic