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December 9th, 2006 Vintage Release 

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

This is the only Vintages Release this month. It starts with a selection of Champagnes and sparkling wines and a few sweet treats before going to country-by-country listings.

Vintage Champagne

 

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bollinger "La Grande Année" Champagne 1997
AOC Champagne $136.95 (145169)
This icon of Champagne has earned its status. This 1997 vintage delivers classic aromas, flavours and texture. It's complex through and through, and you'll easily identify bread/brioche with a heady mix of ginger, nuts, almonds, and licorice. The mousse is fine and pleasant. This lies on the fuller bodied end of the Champagne spectrum, so pair it with full-flavoured and weighty dishes. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Nicolas Feuilatte Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs Brut 1999
AOC Champagne $44.95 (009761)
The yeasty, toasty nose opens up to a light to medium-bodied vintage sparkler with oodles of citrussy notes and deft balance. You'll delight in the clean attack on the palate with enough pear and apple flavours to add interest. This would be well-served to arriving guests, either on its own or with seafood canapés. Extremely well-priced. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pol Roger 'Extra Cuvée de Réserve' 1998
AOC Champagne $74.95 (989137)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent in 2005, it has risen ½ star and five dollars since) Buttered toast and lemon lime aromatics are the precursor to this medium to full-bodied vintage white. This has lots of heft with white peach, lemon and mineral flavours that seamlessly integrate into the long clean finish. A persistent stream of small bubbles give rise to the notion this is very well made and will continue to please now to 2010. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Tatittinger Brut Millésimé Champagne 1999
AOC Champagne $69.95 (989905)
An elegant vintage offering, this opens with a lovely golden hue from which aromas of toast, smoke and freshly cut apple emanate. A vigorous mousse provides a citrus, peach and tropical fruit mélange of flavours. The finish is reminiscent of almonds. It would pair well to breaded and salted fish or seafood e.g. squid. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rich Champagne 1999
AOC Champagne $84.95 (532903)
This is one rich, luscious Champagne. It's full bodied, with layers of aromas and flavours. Look for a sweet, tropical centre with nuanced white peach and apricot pit, with the aromas of a bakery. Enjoy this with rich dishes, and there's enough fruit richness here to deal with quite spicy cuisine. (RP)

Non-Vintage Champagne

**** drink now
Ayala Brut Majeur Champagne
AOC Champagne $46.95 (004143)
This lies at the crisp, even tart, end of the Champagne spectrum. It has bright citrus flavours with notes of green apple and under-ripe pear and some minerality. The texture is quite lean. This is a Champagne for seafood (oysters, especially) and fish served with a squeeze of lemon. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve Champagne
AOC Champagne $54.95
A nicely complex Champagne with good mineral quality and flavours of ripe pear and apple, hints of tropical fruit, and accents of brioche. It's medium bodied with a fine mousse and pairs nicely with roast fowl with baked root vegetables. (RP)

**** drink now
Jacquart Brut Mosaïque Champagne
AOC Champagne $39.95 (664672)
You certainly cannot argue with the price. The lifted nose offers brioche and nutty nuances while the palate is treated to a tangy dollop of lemon zest and white grapefruit flavours. This has good texture, a medium-body with a velvety mouth feel, and delicate balance that all mark this as a wine offering markedly good value. (VH)

Rosé Champagnes

**** drink now
Piper Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $64.95 (680868)
A quite lovely rosé Champagne that helps explain the growing popularity of this style. Here you get surprisingly intense flavours of summer red fruit and berries (plum, cherry, raspberry, cranberry). The texture is crisp and the mousse is quite fine, and this makes a great partner to baked ham or to melon and Serrano ham. (RP)

Sparkling Wines

*** drink now
Nino Franco Prosecco Brut
DOC Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene $10.95 (738161) 375 ml or $16.95 (349662) 750 ml
Apple and citrus aromas and flavours flow through this light-bodied sparkler. The flavours are tight and tangy while the finish has oodles of cleansing citrus flavours that portend a gorgeous match to all manner of fish and sea food appetizers. Good, of course, to quaff on its own. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Yarrabank Cuvée Sparkling Wine 2001
Victoria, Traditional Method $25.95 (015222)
Buttered toast and yeasty notes waft off the nose of this medium-bodied Aussie gem. Expect brioche and Asian pear flavours on the palate, joined by mineral and citrus notes on the finish. Cool climate Yarra Valley provides the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir fruit while the partnership with the Champagne house Veuve A. Devaux provides additional expertise. (VH)

**** drink now
Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Brut 2001
WO Robertson (South Africa) $20.95 (907568)
Made 100% from Chardonnay, this sparkling delivers good complexity in aromas and flavours. Dominated by apples and brioche, with well-integrated citrus (red grapefruit) acidity, this is well-enough balanced to make a pre-dinner aperitif or to serve with an appetizer like freshly-shucked oysters or grilled shrimp with a squeeze of lemon. (RP)

**** drink now
Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine
California $21.95 (100693)
Made from the three Champagne varieties, and made in the Méthode Traditionnelle, this has impressive complexity and texture. Pear and apple dominate the flavours, and there's an intriguing hint of almond that intensifies in the finish. Pair this with pan-fried trout with slivered almonds. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Traditional Method $29.95 (616441)
This earns my vote as the top sparkling wine in this release. Brioche and citrussy aromas form the lifted nose of this well-balanced and beautifully structured offering. The mousse is vigorous and infused with stone fruit and mineral flavours. Has enough charm to go on its own and enough oomph to pair to lightly seasoned and herbed white meats e.g. chicken and veal. (VH)

Fruit and Fortified

***** drink or cellar
Gonzales Byass "Noe" Muy Viejo Pedro Ximénez
DOC Jerez $24.95/375ml (721159)
How do you describe PX-that black, viscous, unctuous, sweet wine that coats your mouth with seemingly indelible flavours of raisins, stewed prunes and melted chocolate? Well, that just about does it. PX is how you spell "hedonistic" in wine-language. You have to experience it, but don't bother pairing it with anything but your palate. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Fonseca LBV Port 2000
DOC Porto, Late Bottled Vintage, Btld. 2005 $22.95 (467894)
It's the time of year to think of cold nights and warm evening drinks. You won't go far wrong with this. Aromas of spice and currant drift off the glass of this medium-bodied well-balanced beauty. Flavours of black currant, allspice and dark juicy cherry abound from the palate to the warm (20% alcohol) finish. Better with a good friend and a chunk of well-aged cheddar or Stilton. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Smith Woodhouse 10 Years Old Tawny Port
DOC Porto, Btld. 2006 $29.95 (012146)
One is drawn in by the copper-coloured liquid in the glass and the magnificent aromas of Christmas cake spice wafting from it. The layered and rich flavours consist of sweet (20% alcohol) and spicy caramel plus mocha fudge with a balance of near-perfect moderating acidity. Look for nuances of nuts, coffee and mandarin orange on the lengthy and luxurious finish. A delicious taste treat. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ruffino Serelle Vin Santo del Chianti 2000
DOC Vin Santo del Chianti $18.95/375ml (001008)
Such a lovely sweet wine! The aromas are all caramel, sweet peach and apricot fruit, with highlights of nuts, and they replay smoothly in the flavours. It's lightly viscous, has just the right acidity to keep cloyingness at bay, and it makes a good partner to crème caramel. (RP)

Canada: white wine

**** drink or cellar
Sandhill Chardonnay 2004
VQA Okanagan Valley $17.95 (541193)
A quite stylish Chardonnay that goes well with quite rich chicken and pork dishes. Look for complex flavours peach, red apple, and some tropical notes, with notes of butterscotch and almond. It has a fairly rich texture with good balance. (RP)

Canada: red wine

**** drink now
Colio CEV Reserve Merlot 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $24.95 (500447)
A juicy and nicely-paced Merlot from a very good year in LENS. The fruit is solid right through, with dark plum and cherry to the fore, with hints of spice and pepper. It's dry and very manageably tannic now, just right for drinking with grilled red meat. (RP)

USA: white wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
La Crema Chardonnay 2005
Sonoma Coast $26.95 (962886) or $15.95/375ml (728352)
This is consistently one of the best Chardonnay (and Pinot Noir) producers in California. This is in a rich and complex style with flavours of pear, apple and bright citrus and hints of butterscotch. Pair it with roasted pork tenderloin stuffed with apricots. (RP)

USA: red wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre 2003
Contra Costa County $19.95 (704387)
Full-bore fruit flavours mark this wine. Look for rich, deep, black berry and fruit with highlights of mint and chocolate. It's moderately tannic with a good, tangy texture, and it's perfect now for game, grilled medium-rare. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Carneros 'Avant-Garde' Pinot Noir 2004
Carneros $25.95 (011528)
This light-bodied wine has alluring aromas of spice and red berry. Flavours of sweet cherry and black plum intermingle with spice and toasty notes. This shows good balance and would be lovely served on its own or with smoked duck breasts over a mess of greens drizzled with a light vinaigrette. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Ironstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Lodi $8.95 (571380)
This round and ready to go Cab offers a quiet nose of earthy and black currant aromas. Light-bodied and fresh, expect subdued flavours of berry fruit and a touch of vanilla. This is a quaffing wine that would pour well on its own or when paired with lighter fare, perhaps a chicken or veal dish. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Sonoma County $19.95 (226944)
(This review was published earlier in Winecurrent) You could drink this now in a pinch, but why, when you can hold it two or three years and get more out of it when the tannins are more integrated? Big and dry, with generous dark fruit and spice, it's a great match for a steak, grilled to medium-rare perfection. (RP)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Sterling Reserve Merlot 2002
Napa Valley $85.95 (011578)
Spice box and vanilla aromas open up this medium-bodied effort from one of California's premium wineries. Cherry and black plum flavours are predominant and provide a rich and layered taste treat. The grippy tannins are still quite noticeable while the finish is medium in length with a touch green. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Testarossa Palazzio Pinot Noir 2004
Central Coast $47.95 (662783)
Testarossa or Pinot Noir with testosterone? This is a big, full-bodied style of Pinot Noir, with quite dense flavours of red fruit and nice notes of spice. It's quite rich and heady, without losng sight of the variety, and has a little warmth from the 14.2% alcohol. This is a Pinot for grilled rack of lamb. (RP)

Argentina: red wine

****1/2 cellar two glasses
Gran Lurton Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Mendoza $19.95 (980334)
The Lurton Boys do it again. Here they give us a rich, juicy, generous Cab that has impressive breadth. Black plum, cherry and black currant dominate the complex range of flavours. It's dry and still very tannic, and best held for two or three years, but you could test-drive a bottle now with rare beef. (RP)

Chile: red wine

**** drink or cellar
Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Carmenère 2004
Rapel Valley $14.95 (640888)
I love Carmenère, and this is a very nice example. It's got the full, ripe fruit flavours you get from Carmenère grown in the right location, and all the spicy complexity (look for coffee and chocolate in here, too) that's the hallmark of the variety. (RP)

Australia: white wine

**** drink or cellar
Hugh Hamilton "The Scallywag" Unwooded Chardonnay 2006
McLaren Vale $14.95 (007435)
This is an attractive Chardonnay that signals the direction many Australian winemakers have taken with Chardonnay-away from the big, fruity, oaked style toward more nuanced, lean style that's still intensely flavoured. This one shows quite pure peach, pear and citrus, and it partners well with grilled firm white fish. (RP)

Australia: red wine

****1/2 cellar
d'Arenberg 'The Coppermine Road' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia, Basket Pressed $49.95 (943399)
Inky-dark and brooding in the glass, this tightly-wound cellar-dweller gives off lifted aromas of coffee, currant and smoke. Tannins have a tight grip on the flavours for now, but the flavours are there - tar, black juicy sweet (14.5% alcohol) cherry and black currant - and will come to the fore in 5 or 6 years. This has the guts to drink well from 2012 to 2020. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Elderton Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Barossa, South Australia $28.95 (009175)
These folks continue to roll out premium wine at virtually every price point, always providing good value. This medium-bodied gem opens with spice, mocha and toasty aromas. The flavours are layered with juicy rich Bing cherry and black berry to the fore. The tannins are still quite grippy and will need time to soften. When they do, you will have a beautifully-balanced drop with a luxurious finish to reward your patience. Drink 2010 to 2018 with medium-rare grilled strip loin. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Elderton "Command" Single Vineyard Shiraz
Barossa Valley $72.95 (716142)
This is a huge, classic Shiraz, rich and luscious, juicy, powerful and power-packed. Really, this is a terrific Shiraz that's chock full of flavour complexity. You'll find a compote of black fruit and berries studded with gamy, earthy and spicy notes. Not inexpensive, but it's a worthwhile experience. You can age this ten or more years or drink it now with medium-rare red meats. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Greg Norman Estates Shiraz/Cabernet 2002
Limestone Coast, South Australia $24.95 (586156)
Cigar smoke and oak aromas pour from the glass of this medium-bodied blend. Cherry, currant and cranberry flavours abound and they are more than matched with generous dollops of tang. Ripe tannins on the medium-length finish round this out and make it approachable now. It will drink well on into 2010 and would well-served with rack of lamb. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz 2002
South Australia $53.95 (510875)
This is the latest in a long line of fine St. Henri's to be released from Penfolds' super premium range. Spice box and leather form the aromatic profile whilst the flavours are in the red cherry and tangy cranberry zones. Taut and deftly balanced, this has a touch of class and generous tang that exhibits right through the flavour profile on into the lengthy finish. One of those wonders of new world wines that is drinking well now and could be cellared for up to 10 years. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann "The Futures" Shiraz 2003
Barossa Valley $31.95 (606780)
A very impressive Shiraz from the amazing Peter Lehmann. It's all about concentrated dark fruit (cherry and plum) with highlights of mint, pepper and spice. There's a subtle hint of oak, too. This is big and smooth and downing a bottle of this with a rack of lamb would be fairly effortless. (RP)
***** drink now
St Hallett Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Barossa, South Australia $19.95 (015164)
Eucalyptus and bramble berry aromas blast from the glass of this rich and concentrated effort from one of the Barossa's top wineries. The flavours are robust and layered; they wash over the palate in waves of chocolate, black coffee and cassis. You will find lovely balance via the tangy finish and ripe tannins. Rod and I found it irresistible. Drink now to 2012. A few bottles will make their way to my cellar, resting alongside other fine St. Hallett wines. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Yangarra Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale $29.95 (911974)
This is a beautiful Shiraz, stylish and sleek. The broad but focused flavours are all dark berries and fruit with some notes of black pepper and spice. It's quite a heavyweight, with a tangy texture and sweet tannins, and it's a natural for big-flavoured red meat dishes. (RP)

New Zealand: white

**** drink or cellar
Waimea Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Nelson, South Island $17.95 (714295)
An exuberant nose of grassy nettles and mineral notes form the segue to this gorgeously-textured medium-bodied Kiwi. The flavours are sweet (13.5% alcohol plus residual sugar) and fruit-forward - gooseberry and ripe peach. Expect beautiful balance, a sweet/dry tanginess and a satin-smooth texture. This would be the perfect foil to spicy Asian dishes - sweet and sour soup or spicy pork balls. (VH)

New Zealand: rosé

*** drink now
Kim Crawford Pansy! Rosé 2004
New Zealand $17.95 (650325)
The first vintage of this wine, 2002, was dedicated to Auckland's gay community. Erica Crawford, marketing manager and Kim's wife, is reported as describing the name as, "tongue in cheek" and the wine, "fruity, fleshy and fun." This opens with freshly sliced strawberry and cranberry aromas and these follow through to the light-bodied, slightly candied and tangy flavours. Serve well-chilled with spicy Asian cuisine. (VH)

South Africa: red wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cathedral Cellar Merlot 2002
WO Coastal Region $16.95 (522219)
This is really very good value. What you get for your money is a full-flavoured and complex Merlot that's packed with layered dark fruit that's peppered with spice. It all holds together very well now, and will improve a little over the next two or three years. Pour it with flavoursome red meat dishes, like a well-seasoned lamb daube. (RP)

France: red wine

**** drink now
Jean Manin "La Madone" Fleurie
AOC Fleurie $18.95 (005660)
This is a stylish Fleurie. It delivers surprisingly deep flavours (plum, cherry, red berries) with an almost polished texture. Overall it's an elegant wine that will pair very nicely with roast game hen. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Château Peyrabon 1996
AOC Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois $27.95 (010538)
Smoke and burnt toast aromas swirl from this medium-bodied red blend. Expect tart flavours of cranberry and cherry along with perceptible tannins and a generous streak of raciness. Try with tomato-based sauce in a hearty stew or pasta over the next year. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Christian Moueix Saint-Émilion 2003
AOC Saint-Émilion $11.45 375 ml (008227)
This opens with a lovely nose of bramble berry and a mélange of spice. The flavours are tightly focussed and in the pomegranate and Montmorency cherry zones. It's light to medium-bodied with a pleasant medium-length finish. Offered in a convenient size at a fair price. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Charles Allexant Premier Cru Beaune Bressandes 2003
AOC Beaune Premier cru les Bressandes $56.95 (006783)
A lifted nose of crushed dark berries and toast opens up this medium-bodied and well balanced gem. The flavours and texture are taut with spiced black plum and currant flavours throughout. The lengthy finish is fruit-forward with a good balancing zing and enough ripe tannin to offer structure and a touch of class. This would be the perfect foil to boeuf bourguignon, now to 2011. (VH)

**** drink now
Drouhin Savigny-les-Beaune Serpentières 2003
AOC Savigny-les-Beaune Serpentières $42.95 (726083)
This is well-priced and well, delicious. Oodles of herbs and savoury notes intertwined with red currant aromas form the segue to this round and ready-to-go Pinot Noir. Fruit flavours abound - cherry, cranberry and sweet strawberry - on the palate and the medium length finish. Fine-grained tannins and moderate acidity provide deft balance and structure. This would pour proudly alongside your holiday bird. (VH)

**** cellar
Jean-Claude Boisset Gevrey-Chambertin 2002
AOC Gevrey-Chambertin $51.95 (006916)
Blueberry and strawberry aromas waft from the glass of this medium-textured red. Still a touch austere, it offers sour cherry and pomegranate flavours on the mid-palate then finishes off entwined in perceptible tannins. This has the oomph and character to go some distance; it will have knitted together by 2008 and will pour well until 2014. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de Saint-Just 2004
AOC Saumur Champigny $15.95 (007146)
An involved aromatic profile of black licorice, berry and earthiness curls from the glass. The flavours are robust - ripe red berry and spice box - and carry through to a well-balanced and richly textured finish. Enough tannin and acidity to provide balance, this is a well made wine that should demand your attention. Well paced and well priced. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de la Solitude Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $37.95 (984419)
A quiet nose of floral and berry notes is the segue to this gorgeous Rhone red. Robust fruit flavours abound here and they include cherry pie, black plum and bramble berry. The texture is medium-bodied, almost creamy, tannins are barely perceptible, the finish is lengthy and luxurious and the price is certainly fair. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Perrin & Fils Vacqueyras les Christins 2004
AOC Vacqueyras, Rhône $21.95 (973453)
This cellar dweller will handsomely repay patience. Leather and black currant aromas blow off the lifted nose while the cornucopia of rich and concentrated flavours includes black raspberry and cassis. The perceptible tannins, good balance and lengthy finish portend a drinking window 2008 to 2014. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $48.95 (700922)
After the torrid, flavour-intensifying 2003 vintage, 2004 is more restrained but lacks none of the depth of the year before. This is all perfumed black fruit and berries, with medium-full body and sweet, full tannins. It needs a couple of years to knit, then will hold nicely for another ten. (RP)

Greece: white wine

**** drink now
Enoteca Emery Villaré Blanc de Blancs 2005
VQPRD Rhodes $15.95 (013094)
If you're a big fan of the Athiri grape, this wine's for you! You'll know to expect a medium-bodied white that's redolent of lemon, pear, licorice and minerality. Drink it with oysters or grilled calamari with a squeeze of lemon. (RP)

Hungary: white

**** drink or cellar
Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2000
Tokaji Aszú $33.95 (012203)
Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum aka the wine of kings, the king of wines, is how King Louis X1V described this in the early 18th C. And now you can try it, with or without a kingdom. This (Toke-eye As-zoo) zooms from the glass with a cascade of mushroom and caramel aromas. The flavours are redolent of sweet candied fruit, pineapple and peach marmalade, with gobs of honeyed apple on the sweet luxurious finish. This is medium-bodied and is to be served well chilled. Serve as the dessert or with crème caramel. (VH)

Italy: white

***1/2 drink now
Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio 2005
DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige $14.95 (627159)
A subdued nose of floral and citrus notes opens up this light to medium-bodied white. This is dry on the palate, displaying well proportioned flavours of honeycomb and key lime zest. It provides a tangy taste treat that would marry well to grilled tuna under a drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

Italy: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Terra d'Aligi Tolos Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2002
DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo $29.95 (019166)
At its best, Montepulciano is a grape that produces robust, tannic wines of excellent value. This is one. The nose is involved, offering coffee and medicinal cherry notes. The flavours are fruit-forward with black currant to the fore. The finish piles on layers of coffee and spice along with generous tang. The tannins are still apparent and this will improve with short term cellaring. Try now, after a four hour decant, to 2012. (VH)

***1/2 cellar
Massolino Barolo 2001
DOCG Barolo $49.95 (011205)
Quintessential aromas of black plum, mushroom and toast blow off the glass of this cellar dweller. You will find black currant and licorice flavours with a hint of gamey-ness on the palate. The tannins are still very grippy and you will also discover generous amounts of bracing acidity. Try this 2009 to 2015 with osso bucco and mushroom risotto. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Principiano Boscareto Barolo 1999
DOCG Barolo $64.95 (015149)
A tantalizing nose of dark fruit, garrigue and tar greets the lucky taster of this full-bodied Nebbiolo. The rich flavours of currant, truffle and Montmorency cherry are underpinned by a robust tannic structure and moderating acidity that will give this the guts to drink well to 2020. The finish is monumental, lasting 30 or more seconds and exhibiting juicy red cherry and red licorice notes. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ornellaia le Volte 2004
IGT Toscana $24.95 (964221)
This Super Tuscan, from the fabled producer of Ornellaia, is a blend of 50% Sangiovese, 35% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Gorgeous aromatics of rich dark fruit and red currant transfer seamlessly to the palate with juicy Bing cherry and tangy red currant flavours to the fore. The finish is lengthy and extremely well balanced in this plush and crowd-pleasing red. You could not go wrong placing this under the tree of a wine-lover. The price to quality ratio is in your favour. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Rocca delle Macìe Riserva di Fizzano Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
DOCG Chianti Classico Riserva $31.95 (699454)
A full-bodied, full-fruit Chianti. It's rich and dense, with forward flavours of black plum and blueberry and a host of spicy notes. The tannins are manageable now, and this is a great partner for meat in a rich, spicy red wine-based sauce. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Masi "Brolo di Campofiorin" 2003
IGT Rosso del Veronese $24.95 (976092)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Brolo is the equivalent of Clos, a small, walled vineyard. Expect ladles full of rich dark cherry fruit that is concentrated and layered. You will find spice, ripe tannin, a zesty tang and cooked fruit nuances that carry through to the luxurious and well-balanced finish. Round and ready to drink, this medium-textured gem will pour well to 2012. (VH)

***** two glasses drink or cellar
Montresor Capitel Della Crosara Amarone 2000
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $59.95 (013326)
Dark and brooding in the glass, this explodes with a lifted nose of black currant, cigar box and coffee. This full-bodied beauty is classic Amarone; dried fruit flavours drench the senses along with mushroom, sweet juicy black berry fruit and spice. The sweet long finish and exceptional balance mark this an outstanding wine that Rod and I both loved. Savour now to 2018; it is worth every penny. (VH)

Switzerland: white

*** drink now
Château d'Auvernier Blanc 2005
AOC Neuchâtel $17.95 (012153)
This Swiss white opens up like a Sauvignon Blanc with loads of grassy and mineral notes in the aromatic profile. It is very clean, fresh and markedly light-bodied. Would pair well to a grilled bass or pickerel with a light drizzle of lemon. (VH)

Cheers Rod and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar