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An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

The lucky winner of the winecurrent.com new subscriber draw contest at the 2006 Ottawa Wine and Food Show is Sharon Spicer. She is the recipient of a pair of Riedel "O" series wine tasting glasses. Congratulations, Sharon!

This release begins with a 'Hosting the Holidays' theme of magnums (1500 ml bottles) then small, various sized bottles followed by 'Just Desserts' aka sweet dessert wines.

Rod did not attend this tasting as he conserves strength for when he will be tasting and spitting the Vintages Releases solo as Vic works his way across Australia visiting wineries this winter.

Hosting the Holidays - 1500 ml

***** drink or cellar
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone $84.95 1500 mL (957266)
Blueberry and dried cherry aromatics blow off the glass of this gem. Fruit forward flavours of black currant and spiced cherry drench the palate and are indicative of the blistering '03 vintage. However, there is good balance, as well, with a nice spine of acidity and ripe tannin to provide deft balance and a lovely finish. Magnums will age longer than 750 ml, but this one is also ready now. It would be the perfect foil to the holiday bird if you do yours with a savoury dressing. Great value offered here. (VH)

**** drink now
J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Paso Robles, California $39.95 1500 mL (016915)
Sweet berry fruit aromas form the segue to this round and ready, plush red. You will discover ripe plum and sweet jammy currant flavours with barely perceptible tannins or acidity. The finish is nicely balanced with notes of red licorice and hints of plum compote. Drink now with pork tenderloin stuffed with dried sweet fruits. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Perez Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005
Maipo Valley, Chile $29.95 1500 mL (9589)
This perennial favourite delivers dark and rich berry fruit from start to finish. Tantalizing aromas of kirsch, toast and oak lead one to copious amounts of Bing cherry and cassis flavours that are ably supported by ripe tannin and balancing zest. The finish highlights a lovely layer of fruity tang, keeping it far away from jammy. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Miguel Torres Mas la Plana Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
DO Penedès, Spain $79.95 1500 mL (652032) /750 ml $39.95 (617456)
An involved and lifted nose of leather and tobacco opens up a glorious attack of sweet flavours that include spiced cherry and cassis. No rough edges here with everything in check and balance. The finish is lengthy, warm and redolent of Christmas cake spices. Always ready to drink when released, this will also age gracefully until 2012. (VH)

Small bottles - various sizes

***** drink now
Gonzalez Byass Matusalem Oloroso Dulce Muy Viejo
DO Jerez, Spain $24.95 375 mL (694323)
Thirty years in the making, this is one of the great treasures of the dessert wine world. It coats your glass with its honey-amber hue and treacle-like nectar. The nose offers beguiling aromas of spiced orange and raisins. It gets into overdrive on the palate with a beautiful creamy texture and flavours of toffee and sweet mincemeat. The finish is monumental and luxurious. Serve chilled, either on its own as dessert, or with dark fruit cake or pecan pie. (VH)

**** drink now
Real Companhia Velha "Stocking Stuffer" Tawny 10-Year-Old Port
Do Douro, Portugal $12.95 200 mL 661223)
These cask-aged Ports are ready to drink and do not improve in the bottle. It opens with gorgeous aromas of caramel and fig and these follow through to the flavour profile with the addition of some spice, nutty notes and dried fruit. The lengthy finish is very warm with a hint of spiced walnuts. This would be the perfect foil to dark fruit cake. As the catalogue suggests, the perfect size for a stocking stuffer. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Pillitteri Vidal Icewine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 200 mL (401448)
Sue-Ann Staff, dessert wine maker extraordinaire, fashioned this fabulous wine. The rich and vibrant nose offers orange blossom and candied citrus peel aromas. The texture is creamy, the balance is perfect and the overall experience is divine. There are copious amounts of sweet fruit, nectarine and pineapple, and dollops of zest for balance. Served well chilled, this drink-now offering stands on its own as a gorgeous dessert. (VH)

Dessert wines

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 200 mL (565861)
Layered, rich and complex, this opens with a lifted and exotic nose of caramel, rosewood and spice box aromas. It offers considerable oomph and body with rich fruit flavours of pit fruit and toffee apple all held in check and safe from cloying with good zest and tang. The lengthy finish offers more of the same and begs to be served well chilled with crème brûlée. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Castellani Sommavite Vin Santo
IGT Toscana, Italy $9.95 500 mL (000927)
Apricot and spice aromas waft from the glass of this racy Vin Santo aka Holy wine. Traditionally left to ferment until around Easter it was then served at Mass. Lucky Italians! It now is aged at least 3 years in barrel after the semi-dried grapes are crushed and fermented. The involved and interesting flavours include strong tea, almond and dried black currant. This medium-bodied gem ends on a sweet and nutty note. Serve well chilled. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Lenz Moser Trockenbeerenauslese "Prestige" 2004
Prädikatswein, Burgenland, Austria $18.95 375 mL (729657)
Trockenbeerenauslese, TBA to those in the know, refers to individual dried berries affected by 'noble rot' (a good thing, despite the name) being painstakingly hand-selected from bunches to make this wine. You will nose earthy and mushroom aromas, a result of the noble rot (botrytis cinera), then enjoy a huge and mouth filling attack of candy-like flavours including marmalade and caramel. The lengthy sweet finish begs for this wine to be served well chilled. (VH)

Sparkling Wine
California

**** drink now
Roederer Estate Brut Rosé
Anderson Valley, Estate Btld. $32.95 (479758)
Just the slightest tinge of pink here, but the flavours are lively and racy. The bouquet is lifted and zesty with generous helpings of citrus and spice. There is a huge mousse attack on the medium-textured palate delivering zingy flavours of green apple and white grapefruit. The lengthy finish is reminiscent of Granny Smith apple. This would pair very well to seafood and pasta in a creamy white sauce. (VH)

Australia

**** drink now
Banrock Station Sparkling Shiraz
Southeastern Australia $13.95 (971507)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Sparkling Shiraz, so cruelly denigrated by some wine-lovers who ought to know better, is an Australian heritage wine. It might look like a novelty seeking a niche, but it's been around for more than a hundred years. This well-priced version is chock full of dark berry and tree fruit, with spicy and peppery notes. The bubbles cut the fruit sweetness and it makes a fine sipping wine or a partner to blackberry pie or tart, as long as you hold back on the sugar. (RP)

Canada: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Inniskillin Riesling Icewine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $69.965 375 mL (558288)
This wonderfully balanced wine opens with lifted aromas of sweet apricot compote and floral notes. The unctuous texture is layered with honeyed orange and candied tropical fruit flavours. There is good zest to keep it all in balance. Served well chilled, this would perform beautifully as the dessert and would also match up to fruit flan. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Southbrook Vidal Icewine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 375 mL (018481)
This lighter-styled offering will appeal to those who may find ice wine a bit over the top for their palate. Copious amounts of tropical fruit aromas (pineapple, apricot) drift from the energetic nose. The sweet flavours, peach, pear and apple, are also clean and refreshing and the finish offers more of the same. The delightful balance and cleansing nature of this wine would be the perfect cap on a hearty holiday dinner. (VH)

California: red

***** drink or cellar
"Andretti Selections" Merlot 2004
California $18.95 (011700)
This rips from the pole position with spiced, sweet black fruit aromatics. It corners the first turn at warp speed with gargantuan rich and concentrated Bing cherry and cassis flavours that are wrapped in ripe tannins and excellent zest. The victory lap is earned with a lengthy and luxurious finish of bramble berry and mocha flavours. Certainly worth taking for a spin at this price. Will take the chequered flag now to 2012. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Big House Red 2004
California $18.95 (308999)
This international blend opens with spiced plum and red cherry aromas. The flavours are a mix of spicy, zesty red berry fruit layered over touches of warm black currant. This is a lighter-styled and medium-textured red that finishes with a zesty Montmorency cherry flavour. Would pour well alongside pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Cline "Los Carneros" Syrah 2003
Carneros $19.95 (955435)
Wild black berry and cedar aromas form the racy nose in this lovely red. You will discover a solid core of black plum fruit along with generous helpings of zesty tang and grippy tannins. Lots going on here and in the tangy finish. Good to go now to 2011 alongside grilled rare to medium-rare lamb tenderloin. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ironstone "Old Vine" Zinfandel 2005
Lodi $16.95 (951889)
Respected producer, lovely wine, excellent price; what's not to like? From the chalky, spicy red cherry nose to the long involved and luxurious finish of bramble berry flavours, this Ironstone rocks. In between, enjoy a medium-bodied Zin with dollops of tang and perceptible, but acceptable tannins. Enjoy now to 2012 and pick a up cartful to do it. (VH)

Argentina: red

**** drink now
Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2005
Mendoza $13.95 (640490)
This is a classy number, partial 9 month small French oak barrel ageing and bottled unfiltered, for a pittance of what one might expect to pay. Deep purple in the glass, the aromas are dusty and cherry-like. The palate is treated to a huge mouthful of black berry and sweet juicy black cherry flavours within a structure of ripe tannins and moderate acidity. The sweet (13.9% alcohol) berry fruit lingers on the finish. Warrants a case purchase. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cristobal 1492 "Oak Reserve" Merlot 2004
Mendoza $13.95 (663096)
This is a crowd-pleaser from stem to stern. Discover your own new world fruit-forward rich and concentrated flavours of spicy black currant and black berry. The texture is plush, almost creamy, Aunt Isabella will love it. The voyage ends with berry fruit and hints of mocha and toasty oak. This would pour well with your Chris-tmas bird. At this price, stow a case on board. (VH)

Chile: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Rapel Valley, Estate Btld., $16.95 (398800)
No mere happenstance that bargain reds are clustered in Chile and Argentina, offering a price to quality balance that is weighted heavily in your favour. Cedar notes and black cherry aromas form a segue to this ripe and richly concentrated beauty. It drips with black raspberry and kirsch flavours and offers a grippy tannin structure. The medium-length finish offers more of the same along with good zest and tang. This has the guts to go to 2012 and would pair well with grilled steaks or smoked and bar b qued ribs. This offers outstanding value. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle Merlot 2005
Rapel Valley, Estate Btld., $16.95 (405712)
Aromatics of sharp Montmorency cherry juice plus hints of toasty oak greet the taster. Lots of red and black berry fruit in this medium-textured red along with spicy black plum. It finishes with a medicinal cherry flavour and a touch of iodine. Round and ready, you will find no edges on this drink-now Merlot. Pair to tomato-based sauces in pasta dishes. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Segú Carmenère Unfiltered Reserve 2003
Maule Valley $14.95 (663013)
We owe Chilean Carmenère to an 1850 mix-up of cuttings within what was thought to be a shipment of Cabernet and Merlot. Sorted out in 1994, it has become the basis for outstanding wines. This one is all about juicy fruit from ripe berries and cherries, producing a sweet and jammy, satin smooth red. There is good zest for balance and a lovely finish that adds tobacco and spice box notes. Difficult to argue the price. (VH)

Australia: white

**** drink now
d'Arenberg 'The Money Spider' Roussanne 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (656710)
This opens with lifted, racy lemon zest and green tea aromatics. Layered flavours of tropical and stone fruit, especially sweet peach and yellow plum, abound on the palate of this medium-bodied beauty. The finish incorporates some lemony notes producing a clean and refreshing tang. This should develop, with 4 or 5 years ageing, into a magnificent drop by adding honeyed tones and a creamier texture, much in the style of a fine Hunter Semillon. Pick up a few for yourself and gift to someone special. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Devil's Lair Chardonnay 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $39.95 (543447)
Tropical fruit, pineapple and melon, abound in the aromatic profile of this rich and layered gem. Very approachable now, with its medium-bodied satiny texture, this has the character and structure to go another 5 years. A mélange of pit frit and melon flavours on the palate carry through to the lengthy finish adding a lovely dollop of citrussy zest along the journey. The perfect foil to the holiday bird served without overpowering sauces or savoury dressing. (VH)

Australia: red

**** cellar
Devil's Lair Red 2003
Margaret River, Western Australia $49.95 (543454)
Margaret River boasts more quality wine, in proportion to its small production, than any other appellation in Australia. This opens with a lifted and perfumed nose of cedar box and spice. Ripe dark berry fruit simply oozes from this medium to full-bodied blend. It's warm (15% alcohol), tannic (will soften over time) and offers a moderate spine of racy acidity. Drink to 2014 with good friends and a T-bone, grilled rare to medium-rare. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kaesler "Stonehorse" Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (006551)
This GSM crowd-pleaser is round and ready to go or can easily cellar another 6 years. Expect a medium-bodied blend with ripe juicy berry and Bing cherry fruit balanced off with only an hint of acidity and ripe, acceptable tannins for structure. The finish adds dollops of stewed, jammy black berry fruit. Earned its final half star on the attractive price. Try with backstraps of lamb. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Penfolds "Bin 407" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
South Australia $29.95 (414987)
This opens with a very quiet nose of subtle berry fruit aromas, but do not be fooled. This has the structure and character to drink well into 2012. The palate is treated to waves of spicy, juicy black currant, mint and oaky nuances, all still held in the grip of noticeable tannins. The medium-length finish provides a solid replay of flavours and texture. A very good wine fashioned from a challenging vintage. Pour alongside grilled rare to medium-rare red meat now, or hold for 3 years and drink to 2014. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Two Hands "Gnarly Dudes" Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $27.95 (660043)
The "Two Hands" refer to the owners. They are 'negociants', much like Georges Duboeuf of Beaujolais fame, in that they purchase grapes, rather than grow, then make into wine at their own facility in the Barossa. The opaque and deeply coloured liquid in the glass gains your attention. Aromas of ripe black plum and cherry blast from the glass of this medium to full-bodied gem. You will find generous tannins and zest to balance it all off and to keep this drinking well for another 5 years. The finish adds tantalizing nuances of black pepper, tar and licorice. Certainly worth a punt. (VH)

New Zealand: white

***1/2 drink now
Coopers Creek Unoaked Chardonnay 2004
Gisborne, North Island $16.95 (009035)
Citrus and mineral are predominant in the nose with hints of tropical fruit. The fruit really comes to the fore on the palate with copious amounts of lemon, green apple and Bosc pear. It finishes smartly with sweet tropical fruit and a lovely zest. It has been wisely closed by screw cap to keep it tasting this way when you open it. (VH)

New Zealand: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Oyster Bay Merlot 2005
Hawkes Bay, North Island $19.95 (692343)
Opening with an interesting barnyard and savoury nose, you will find this Merlot medium-bodied and still quite tannic. Good red currant and cranberry flavours abound on the palate and the medium-length finish. You could drink now with grilled rare meat or hard cheeses, but this will benefit 2 or 3 years careful cellaring. (VH)

South Africa: red

**** drink or cellar
La Motte Shiraz 2003
WO Western Cape $22.95 (652685)
A distinctively tarry nose with no hint of the unpleasantness that may accompany it. Layered flavours of ripe dark Bing cherry fruit, bramble berry with notes of gamey-ness attack the palate in delicious waves. The drying finish on this is equally as involved with spice, bracing zestiness and noticeable tannins intermingling with the replay of fruit. Expect good balance, good value and 7 more good years of life. (VH)

France: red

***1/2 drink now
Cave de Tain Crozes Hermitage 2003
AOC Crozes Hermitage, Rhône $16.95 (572230)
Smoke, oak and muted fruit aromas blow from the nose of this light-bodied red. Not as round and plush as many from this vintage, it is nonetheless approachable now. You will find delicate flavours of red plum, cranberry and spice on the palate. It finishes well balanced and clean. Try with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Mathieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône $31.95 (971564) /375 ml $17.95 (655175)
This opens divinely with a heavily-perfumed and sharp nose of spice box and cherry aromatics. Gobs of red currant and fresh red cherry fruit drip from this medium-bodied red blend with an absolutely gorgeous texture. There are gobs of fruit and great balance on the finish making this a sterling candidate for that holiday bird, matching up superbly to pungent, tangy cranberry sauce. (VH)

Germany: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Furst Löwenstein Riesling Kabinett 2005
QmP Hallgartener Schönhell, Estate Btld. $17.95 (505461)
Tantalizing pit fruit aromatics waft from the lifted nose. Riesling lovers will revel in the lemon zest and white peach flavours. The structured wine is delivered with enough residual sugar and spine of acidity to create that glorious yin and yang, sweet and sour effect that makes this a perfect match to spicy Asian food. Good to go now and well into 2015. Try this with butter chicken and steamed Basmati rice. (VH)

**** drink now
P.J. Valckenberg Riesling Kabinett 2004
QmP Wormser Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstuck, Estate Btld. $19.95 (010462)
From the attractive, unique and quite sensible glass seal to the clean and refreshing finish that will stay that way until you open it, this is soft round and refreshing. Gorgeous nectarine aromas waft from the glass whilst the flavours add more pit fruit and a zesty spoonful of citrus tang. This cries out for a lightly-seasoned roast pork dish. (VH)

Italy: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Aurelio Settimo Dolcetto d'Alba 2004
DOC Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont $18.95 (640334)
Smoke and cherry aromas blast from the lifted nose of this light to medium-bodied tangy red. Montmorency cherry, cranberry and spicy red plum flavours are tightly wound and underpinned by a bracing spine of acidity and still grippy tannins. Would marry beautifully to lasagna or veal parmigiano, now to 2011. (VH)

***** cellar
Roberto Voerzio Barolo Vigneto Brunate 2001
DOCG Barolo, Piedmont $199.95 (720813)
This was very tough to spit! Licorice, violets and berry fruit aromatics are the segue to this rich and concentrated cellar dweller. One of the best vintages in twenty, all the great ones will require time. Rich, black bramble berry fruit drenches the senses and the finish is lengthy and luxurious, portending a great future. Copious amounts of still grippy tannins hold this elegant offering firmly in their grasp for now. Drink 2012 to 2025. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Antinori Pèppoli Chianti Classico 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico, Tuscany $19.95 (606541) /375 mL $11.95 (677328)
A crowd-pleasing, lip-smacking gem that opens smartly with a fragrant nose of spicy plum and mocha aromas. From then on it's ripe, sweet, juicy black cherry fruit and oodles of bramble berry flavours. This has very good balance as the tannins and acidity are certainly not shy, keeping it safe from jammy. A full-bodied effort that will separate the women from the girls. Drink to 2012 and purchase an armful to do it. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Castello d'Albola Chianti Classico 2003
DOCG Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Estate Btld. $19.95 (339937)
A quiet nose of floral and red berry notes opens this light to medium-bodied Tuscan. Sour cherry, cranberry and red currant flavours come to the fore and replay on the zesty finish. You might want to try it with pasta in a tomato sauce to best show off this wine. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Isole E Olena Chianti Classico 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Estate Btld. $25.95 (704346)
Smoke, oak and charcoal blow off the nose of this tangy and zesty Chianti. The fruit is tightly packed, red cherry and cranberry, while the spine of acidity predominates. The medium-length finish offers Montmorency cherry and some lovely leathery notes. Drink now to 2011 with any manner of hearty stew with tomatoes included - e.g. osso bucco. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Luce Della Vite 2003
IGT Toscana $99.95 (685263) /375 mL $54.95 (651000)
The review that appears in the Vintages catalogue is not from a tasting of this wine, but rather of Lucente, the little brother to this. What follows is a review of this wine - Dark and brooding in the glass, you will find this cellar dweller a rare treat. Juicy and ripe black cherry and licorice flavours drench the palate and carry through to the lengthy, luxurious and warm (14.5% alcohol) finish, adding on layers of dark Belgian chocolate and mint along the journey. A 50/50 blend of Merlot and Sangiovese, it is beautifully structured and still in the early stages of development, this will drink well 2009 to 2015 once the tannins tame. The 375 mL is a candidate for 2008 to 2010. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2001
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $49.95 (356220) /375 mL $26.95 (980128)
The ripe and partially-desiccated fruit shines through here. The aromas and flavours are all in the fig, raisin and prune zones with beautiful nuances of floral, spice and tarry notes. The finish is plush, lengthy and redolent of plum compote. You will experience that wonderful bitter nuance on the finish; the name Amarone comes from an Italian word, meaning bitter. Drinking well now and on into 2015. (VH)

Portugal: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta dos Carvalhais Colheita 2002
DOC Dão $19.95 (013474)
This medium bodied blend of hand-picked Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Alfrocheiro grapes opens with a quiet nose of violets and savoury notes. The fruit flavours are sharp rhubarb pie and strawberry while the finish adds on a generous dollop of zesty tang, keeping it very clean and refreshing. (VH)

Spain: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Julian Chivite Gran Feudo "Old Vines" Reserva 2001
DO Navarra $19.95 (948067)
Spicy black plum runs the entire length of this light to medium-bodied blend. The palate is treated to red currant flavours, as well, laced with spice and it finishes dry and zesty with hints of more plum and tobacco. This would pour well with beef and pepper sauerbraten stew. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar