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Winecurrent October 28 release

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Rod was unable to attend this release tasting as he was in Toronto, leading a seminar on Chilean wines. He expects to be back in stride for the November releases.

This release begins with a special selection of California wines, then 2001 Barolo followed by the usual selection of wines by country.

California - white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cuvaison Chardonnay 2004
Carneros, Napa Valley $27.95 (988261)
An early 2004 harvest - already early by August, then exacerbated by heat spikes, produced a light-yielding, high quality Chardonnay crop. This is quality from the lifted nose of perfumed floral notes and toasted oak through to the citrussy clean and dry finish. The flavours of this medium to full-bodied gem include a mélange of tropical fruit and citrus notes that produce good balance and a lovely texture. (VH)

California - red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Caymus "Special Selection" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Napa Valley $149.95 (711663)
Look for a monumental red from a fabulous vintage; the real deal. Aromatics of leather, black licorice and mint waft from the glass of this medium to full-bodied classy Cab. Layers of flavours include spoonfuls of rich, black berry fruit intertwined with notes of currants and tar, all underpinned by supple tannin and moderate acidity. Drink now, after a 4 hour decant, to 2015 with your best friend. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot 2003
Napa Valley $74.95 (992529)
A gregarious offering that is warm (14.5% alcohol), robust and meaty. Plum and black currant aromatics drift off the glass of this medium-bodied sweet (picked at 26.5 degrees Brix - aka very ripe grapes) tasting red. The flavours are complex - dark chocolate, cassis and raspberry - while the finish echoes this, adding grip and intensity. With 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, it has heft. Drink now to 2013 with grilled pepper steak. (VH)

**** drink now
Diamond Ridge Merlot 2002
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $15.95 (994533)
This value wine delivers the goods. It begins with black plum aromatics then washes the palate with juicy and ripe cherry flavours and a hint of oaky spice. Medium-bodied, it exhibits deft balance, grip, good acidity and lovely structure. The lengthy fruit-forward finish portends a match with stuffed pork tenderloin. The quality to price balance tipped in your favour. Stock up. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Macrostie Pinot Noir 2003
Carneros, Sonoma County $33.95 (674911) or/375 ml $17.95 (674903)
Toasty oak and tar on the nose, this has the guts to go another 6 or 7 years. The flavour profile is a-typical and gargantuan. You will experience a huge attack of rich, black, juicy fruit flavours intertwined with moderate acidity and supple tannins - not all that common in Pinot. This would go well with hearty beef stew or Cassoulet. (VH)
**** drink now
Ridge "Three Valleys" Red 2004
Sonoma County $29.95 (652875)
A tantalizing nose of spicy red cherry and jammy sweet cassis form the segue to this value-priced Zin. Ridge has fashioned this in an early drinking style, but not without depth or structure. Oodles of sweet strawberry and bramble berry flavours enhanced by a balancing zest and imperceptible tannins. Very well-priced from a top producer. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Calera Chardonnay 2002
Central Coast $19.95 (713313)
You will love this, from the floral and toasty nose to the lengthy and luxurious finish it is a classy effort. The creamy, medium-weight texture is amazing. There is gorgeous apple pie spice, oodles of tropical fruit and all held together by a lovely citrus tang. The gorgeous finish offers ripe peach and a bit of citrus to keep it dry and clean. At an attractive price point for a wine delivering such a delicious mouthful of flavour. (VH)

**** drink now
Bonny Doon "Cardinal Zin" Beastly Old Vines Zinfandel 2004
California $26.95 (903245)
The zany and iconic (one of the original Rhone rangers) Randall Graham has fashioned another winner here. It's spicy, rich and concentrated delivering ladles of sweet, juicy black berry fruit on the palate and the moderately-lengthy finish. You will experience a plush texture with enough zest and tang to keep it from jammy. Easy drinking and ready to go now to 2009 alongside lamb daube (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Joseph Phelps "Pastiche" Red 2004
California $22.95 (970863)
Another Rhone ranger offering, this time with Grenache and Syrah in the mix. This exotic blend is well rounded, smooth, silky and a guaranteed crowd-pleaser. Plush flavours of sweet black berry fruit are gently held in the hands of a ripe tannin base and imperceptible acidity. This is wrapped in cotton batten and delivered on a pillow. Well-handled ripe black fruit and a soft tangy finish complete the experience. (VH)

Barolo - a selection from the 2001 vintage

***** drink or cellar
Andrea Oberto Barolo 2001
DOCG Barolo $49.95 (717264)
Meticulous vine management (triple triage green harvesting), sustainable agriculture, hand picking and low yields coalesce in this stunning wine. This is ripe, rich and concentrated. Aromas of lilac and toasty oak burst from the glass while flavours of currant, cassis, coffee and spice drench the palate. This is round and ready now with a long decant; will also drink well into 2015. A superb wine that is also good value. (VH)

**** cellar
Ceretto Barolo Zonchera 2001
DOCG Barolo $41.95 (903229)
From a fabulous producer and a great vintage for Barolo, this offers a lifted nose of dates and red currant then launches a fruit-forward flavour profile of cherry, spice and licorice. The lengthy finish offers figs and raisins. There are discernible tannins and good balancing acidity, portending a lovely window of drinking 2008 to 2015. This will match up well to osso bucco. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Paolo Scavino Barolo 2001
DOCG Barolo $51.95 (907592)
Aromatics of toasty oak and rose petal notes form the segue to this full-bodied red. Layers of rich juicy bramble berry and black cherry are underpinned by a ripe tannin structure and moderate acidity. A well balanced finish adds more ripe fruit plus spice box and gamey notes. Drink now, after a 4 hour decant, to 2012. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo 2001
DOCG Barolo $69.95 (007799)
Dried cherry and raisin aromas waft from the glass of this lovely wine. Gorgeous flavours redolent of spiced plum and dark chocolate wash over the palate while the moderately-lengthy finish adds notes of black licorice and tar. This achieves balance, depth, structure and you can enjoy now to 2011 with a hearty stew. (VH)

***** cellar
Pio Cesare Barolo 2001
DOCG Barolo $59.95 (736587)
Lilac and sweet berry fruit aromatics open the door to this gorgeously round and plush offering. Spicy black plum and Bing cherry flavours attack the palate in this medium- to full-bodied gem. The luxurious finish adds cedar and coffee. You will experience perceptible tannins on the palate suggesting cellaring until 2010 then drinking to 2018. The overall experience approaches elegance. (VH)

***1/2 cellar
Prunotto Barolo 2001
DOCG Barolo $59.95 (928721)
This opens with cedar and spice aromas. The flavours are a mélange of sweet, dark berry fruit with notes of fig and raisin. Expect to put this medium-bodied red in the cellar as it exhibits copious amounts of grippy tannin and bracing acidity. Drink 2010 to 2015 with a thick slab of beefsteak, grilled rare to medium-rare. (VH)

Fortified wine: Sherry

****1/2 drink now
Lustau "Peninsula" Solera Reserva Palo Cortado
DO Jerez $15.95 (375 mL) (677856)
Another exotic offering from Emilio Lustau, the vaunted producer of quality Sherry. Nutty and spicy on the nose and palate, you will find this medium-bodied, copper-coloured glorious nectar simply stunning. This is tangy, yet offers a generous texture and diversity of structure and character that was gained from its age and multi-vintage roots. It finishes clean with hints of coffee and chocolate. Serve slightly chilled as a welcoming wine or dinner aperitif for very special guests; also the perfect match to consommé. (VH)

Fortified wine: Port

**** drink now
Quinta do Noval 10 Years Old Tawny Port
DOC Duoro $32.95 (954503)
The bronze-coloured liquid is certain to catch your eye whilst the sweet, rich flavours and lengthy finish will catch your interest. Robust aromas and flavours of spice, caramel and raisin abound in this medium-bodied, well-balanced Port. The lengthy and luxurious finish offers more of the same flavours then finishes surprisingly clean. A versatile food wine, try this with Fois gras or dessert e.g. crème caramel. (VH)

Ontario: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs "Delaine Vineyard" Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.95 (623454)
Beguiling aromatics of flowers, honey and spice waft from the glass of this medium-bodied, gorgeously-textured Chardonnay. Oodles of rich concentrated flavours on the palate with apple compote, cinnamon and citrus to the fore. The finish is lip-smacking good delivering a mélange of tropical fruit and zesty tang. Well-made, well-priced. (VH)

California: white

***1/2 drink now
Cline Cellars "White Truck" 2004
California $14.95 (657999)
No Cab in this truck, but a bit of everything else on board. You will find this quaffing wine clean and refreshing. Light to medium-bodied, there are aromas and flavours of citrus and green apple. Nice balance and a zesty finish mark this a candidate for grilled white fish. (VH)

California: red

**** drink now
Cline Cellars "Red Truck" 2004
California $14.95 (693903)
A crowd-pleasing, ready-to-go red blend (Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Mourvèdre) offering very good value. Luscious, sweet, black, juicy berry fruit is found on the palate and the lovely finish. Drink on its own, it is round and polished, or pair to your favourite Friday evening pizza. (VH)

Chile: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle "Cuvée Alexandre" Atalayas Vineyard Chardonnay 2005
Casablanca Valley $33.95 (947937)
This has character, depth and charm. Alluring aromas of toasty oak and honey pot form the nose of this medium to full-bodied beauty. There are layers of tropical fruit and citrus flavours on a lovely-textured frame. The spicy and lengthy finish is astounding. Save for the upcoming holiday season and serve with the bird alongside traditional fixings. (VH)

**** drink now
Casa Lapostolle "Cuvée Alexandre" Apalta Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Colchagua Valley $34.95 (947929)
Aromas of raspberry and plum drift off the glass of this medium to full-bodied approachable red. The rich and smooth texture is augmented by concentrated berry fruit flavours with lovely hints of spice box and chocolate. The finish displays good fruit, deft balance and perceptible, but acceptable, tannins. Pair with veal shanks, after a 3 or 4 hour decant, or cellar and drink 2008 to 2012. (VH)

Australia: white

**** drink or cellar
Wolf Blass "Gold Label" Riesling 2005
Clare & Eden Valley, South Australia $19.95 (606269)
You will find a lifted and involved nose of mineral, slate and pronounced citrussy notes. This medium-bodied zinger is all about clean and refreshing on the palate and finish. There are notes of peach and apple in the flavour profile, as well. Try this up against seared scallops or mussels steamed in a white wine broth. Well priced. (VH)

**** drink now
Wolf Blass "Premium Selection" Chardonnay 2004
South Australia $19.95 (394908)
An in-your-face buttery, oaky, toasty Chardonnay that really delivers the goods. It opens with an involved and intricate nose of brioche, vanilla and honey aromatics. Sweet tropical fruit flavours predominate with ripe melon and pineapple to the fore. The finish is well balanced and lengthy adding citrus and nuances of spice and nutty flavours. (VH)

Australia: red

**** drink or cellar
Penfolds "Bin 128" Shiraz 2004
Coonawarra, South Australia $29.95 (509919)
Unique, in that this Aussie Shiraz was aged in French, rather than the usual American oak. Prepare yourself for a sweet, fruit-forward thing of beauty. This shows elegance and charm with its medium-weight frame, spiced black plum and peppery cherry flavours, ripe tannin, balancing squirt of acidity and lengthy finish. Drink now to 2012. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Torbreck "Old Vines" Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2004
Barossa Valley $19.95 (010223)
David Powell, owner and wine maker, makes his mark by sourcing and regenerating ancient, derelict vineyards in the Barossa. The result here is a rich and concentrated red blend that delivers full black cherry and bramble berry fruit. The sweet (14.5% alcohol) finish is jammy and luscious. With only hints of oak, tannin and tang, this is a round and ready, drink-now drop. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Yalumba "Bush Vine" Grenache 2004
Barossa, South Australia $19.95 (531228)
Never a misstep with Yalumba, this opens with a perfumed nose of sweet black berry fruit and spice box. Concentrated flavours wash over the palate in waves with black licorice, tar and Bing cherry to the fore. The lengthy finish offers more of the same with ripe tannins and a dollop of acidity thrown in, keeping this full-bodied beauty interesting and in balance. Drink now to 2012 and pick up a few to do it. (VH)

New Zealand: white

***** drink now
Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (677450)
Wow! I invite you to try this crème de la crème of Kiwi SB. The herbaceous, lifted nose is a lovely segue to this tangy, medium to full-bodied offering. Gooseberry, lime and peach burst upon the palate whilst the texture is plush and silky smooth. The laser-like finish adds white grapefruit and is zesty clean. Wisely under screw cap to keep it fresh, try on its own, for the experience, then with a chèvre salad. Very well-priced. (VH)

France: white

**** drink or cellar
Cave de Turckheim Gewürztraminer Reserve 2004
AOC Alsace $19.95 (010397)
A-typical, appetizing and from a well-respected cooperative, this opens with spiced apple and pear aromatics. The gorgeous golden colour in the glass carries through to the flavours with rich and luscious peach and pear flavours with a noticeable spicy component within the creamily-textured frame. The hint of residual sugar suggests a magical pairing with spicy Asian cuisine, like Tom Yung Gung soup. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Leon Beyer Gewürztraminer 2004
AOC Alsace $19.95 (718015)
The nose of this lighter-styled Gewürzt shows great typicity with highly perfumed rosewater and lychee aromatics. Faint fruit flavours of spiced apple and pear follow through from the palate to the finish. A quaffing wine served best on its own. (VH)

France: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Saint-Gemmed 2000
AOC Haut-Medoc, Cru Bourgeois $32.95 (994343)
From the highly-rated 2000 vintage, this delivers a round, plush red at terrific value. Aromatics of sweet red berry and cedar waft from the glass. These are followed by a luscious fruit-forward flavour attack of cherry and cassis. There is great balance as all is held together by supple tannin and moderated acidity. Drinking now and on to 2012. (VH)

**** drink now
Georges Duboeuf "Clos des Quatre Vents" Fleurie 2003
AOC Beaujolais $22.95 (002378)
Duboeuf, a negotiant - he purchases grapes, sometimes wine - is the doyen of Beaujolais. This is a special single-site Cru from Fleurie, one of only ten premium Beaujolais sub-appellations and definitely not a Nouveau. Expect beautiful aromas of lilac and berry fruit along with rich, concentrated fruit flavours - bramble berry and currant - that wash over the palate. The finish adds layers of licorice and ripe tannin. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Frederic Mabileau St-Nicolas de Bourgueil 2005
AOC Loire, Les Rouillères $17.95 (007211)
Spiced black plum aromas drift off this medium to full-bodied gem. It is round and supple in texture exhibiting sweet, ripe black fruit flavours and a ripe tannin structure. The finish adds moderating acidity giving good balance and tang. Drink now to 2010 with beefsteak, grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Domain d'Aumières "Les Loupiots" 2001
Vin de Pays d'Oc $17.95 (009613)
This medium to full-bodied crowd-pleaser offers aromas of raspberry and spiced red berry plus plenty of oomph in its structure. Sweet black currant and spiced cherry flavours massage the palate with good balance, achieved by moderate acidity and soft tannins. Would pour very well alongside gourmet burgers or grilled steak. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine la Casenove "La Garrigue" 2004
Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $16.95 (956888)
A perennial choice delivering a gorgeously-textured blend with the guts to go another five to six years. The lifted and involved nose offers blueberry and floral notes whilst the flavours explode on the palate with kirsch, tar and licorice. The lengthy finish adds touches of sweet cherry and spice box along with noticeable tannins. Drink 2008 to 2012 after picking up an armful. (VH)

**** cellar
Coudolet de Beaucastel Rouge 2003
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $29.95 (641548)
Often thought of as the 2nd label of Chateau de Beaucastel, this is from the blistering 03 vintage yet possesses the heft and balance to be a candidate for drinking 2008 to 2015. Leather and tar off the nose, the flavours are redolent of Bing cherry, black currant and black licorice. The moderately-lengthy finish layers on considerable tannins and balancing tang. Pour alongside a filet of venison or elk. Just ran out? A strip loin would be perfect, as well. (VH)

Italy: white wine

****1/2 drink now
Elena Walch "Castel Ringberg" Pinot Grigio 2005
DOC Alto Adige $24.95 (937904)
Pinot Grigio at its best. This is a gorgeous effort with the yin and yang of a dry crisp wine coupled with a fleshy texture. Green apple and mineral tones form the beguiling nose while the fruit bomb flavours are citrus zest, grapefruit and pineapple. The medium-bodied frame supports the endless citrus and mineral flavours on the finish. (VH)

Italy: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Antinori Pian Delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2000
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $61.95 (651441)
A gem from the wine world's überfamily. Leather, tar and black licorice on the nose, the fully textured-frame easily supports the layers of juicy, sweet black fruit flavours, moderating tang and perceptible tannins. The lengthy finish echoes the flavours, piling on gamey notes and hints of leather. Gutsy and good now to 2012. (VH)

**** drink now
Banfi "Cum Laude" 2003
DOC Sant'Antimo $33.95 (723551)
Leaning more toward new world-style than old, this delivers a fruit-forward richly-concentrated red. Expect cassis and bramble berry aromatics and flavours that are underpinned by a ripe tannin structure. The mouth feel is highly textured while the finish is lengthy and luxurious with its powerful display of ripe fruit, soft tannin and moderating acidity. Drink over the next 5 years. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Colognole Chianti Rufina 2003
DOCG Chianti Rufina $16.95 (974501)
This is a lighter-styled Chianti from the searing hot 03 vintage. There are ladles of zesty tang along with balancing fruit - Montmorency cherry, red currant and cranberry - to keep it interesting. This would pour well alongside pizza or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva "Ducale" Gold Label 2001
DOCG Chianti Classico $44.95 (353201)
A superlative producer and this wine, only produced in the best years, is testament to that. The funky aroma is reminiscent of iodine while the flavours of this full-bodied red are sweet cherry and cassis beautifully intertwined with spice and red licorice. There are perceptible, but acceptable, tannins and the lengthy finish is well balanced and clean. Drink now to 2012 with a good friend.

**** cellar
Tenuta Lodola Nuova Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2003
DOCG Vino Nobile de Montepulciano $24.95 (332411)
Leather aromas with hints of pomegranate waft from the nose of this medium-bodied gem. The palate is treated to a gusher of sweet, black, juicy fruit - cherry and currant to the fore - that attacks in waves and is ably supported by supple tannins and moderate acidity. This deft balance and structure holds true for the lengthy finish, as well, portending a drinking window 2008 - 2014. A lovely wine at an attractive price. (VH)

**** drink now
Tenuta Santedame Chianti Classico 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (523076) or/375 ml $11.95 (008342)
Quiet aromatics of lilac and strawberry open the door to this medium-bodied red. You will discover flavours of cranberry and plum intertwined with a light touch of toasty oak from 6 months in the barrel. There are dollops of zesty tang throughout. It finishes with a sweet and sour blast of red cherries. Go with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Masi "Campolongo di Torbe" Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 1999
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $79.95 (548677)
Rich, lush and plush, this is an outstanding Amarone. Fig, raisin and black plum aromatics gush off the nose. The palate is washed with dried, crushed cherry and spiced plum flavours that are set within a creamy texture. The finish is all about sweet (16% alcohol) black fruit with balancing zest and a firm tannin structure. Drinking beautifully now and should do so on into 2015. Pair with hearty meats and stews. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Masi "Campolongo di Torbe" Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2000
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $79.95 (008300)
The aromatic profile is predominantly spice box, black currant and truffles. There is strength and depth here with sweet, bold licorice and black cherry flavours that are layered and concentrated. They are also glorious, drenching the palate alongside ripe soft tannins and moderating acidity. The overall effect is both powerful and elegant, especially the finish. It is stunning in intensity, monumental in length. Drink this tour de force in wine making now to 2018. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Zenato Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2001
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $42.95 (413179)
This producer is well-known and well-respected for wines like this. Dark and brooding in the glass, kirsch and sweet raspberry aromas form the lifted nose. The flavours are similar with some interesting notes of cigar box and Christmas cake spice. The deft balance and round smooth delivery suggest an optimum drinking window now to 2012. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Mähler-Besse "Taja" Reserva 2001
DO Jumilla $14.95 (243329)
Mähler-Besse is a Bordeaux-based company owning, amongst others, Chateau Palmer, a third growth Margaux property. Depending upon the vintage, their Taja line produces some great bargains. This opens with a medicinal nose then provides reasonable zest and fruit, black currant and cherry to the fore. It is well balanced and still has the heft to go until 2010. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Seleccion de Torres "Celeste" Tinto 2004
DO Ribera del Duero $19.95 (672691)
This outstanding cellar selection, from a top shelf Spanish producer, is most worthy of your attention. Leather, tar and red currant aromas form the lively and lifted nose. Bramble berry, licorice and dark chocolate flavours are still firmly wrapped in supple tannins for now. The finish adds moderating acidity and generous lashings of oak suggesting a lengthy drinking window 2009 to 2015. Pair this Tempranillo with rich stews, osso bucco, Cassoulet or a beef daube Provençal. (VH)

New in LCBO

***1/2 drink now
Calama Merlot 2005
Central Valley, Chile $9.40 (612440)
It opens with a subdued nose of rich ripe plums. More of the same fruit on the palate and finish forming a medium-body to this well-balanced red. The finish adds a note of zest suggesting this would be the perfect foil to pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

**** drink now
Dow's Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
DOC Douro $16.95 (613927)
Aged six years (regulations are a minimum of 4) in older barrels, ensuring your immediate drinking enjoyment. Silver medal winner at the 2006 Ottawa Wine and Food Show, this offers a spicy warm nose and glorious rich flavours of raisin, fig and deep rich cherry. The long and layered finish offers more of the same with deft balance, luxurious texture and spicy notes. Extremely versatile, you can quaff on its own après dinner or pair to chocolate desserts or hard cheeses. 6 bonus AIR MILES offer to Nov. 4. (VH)

**** drink now
Masi Masianco Pinot Grigio / Verduzzo 2005
IGT Pinot Grigio e Verduzzo delle Venezie $14.95 (620773)
An aromatic beauty with an involved and perfumed nose of floral, honeycomb and citrus notes. The brilliant blending of 25% over-ripe Verduzzo (traditional Veneto variety) adds complexity and lushness not always found in Pinot Grigio. This offers a clean citrus finish that would marry well to sautéed and garlicky shell fish. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Masi Costasera Amarone 2001
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $35.05 (317057)
Dark ripe fruit (raspberry and cherry) waft form the glass of this outstanding wine. You will find copious amounts of sweet, cooked fruit that is incredibly well balanced with supple tannin and good tang. A special yeast strain utilized to ferment without the oxidisation one often finds in these wines. The quintessential Amarone bite is present on the finish. It cries out for a match with veal shanks in a tomato sauce, now to 2020. (VH)

**** drink now
MezzaCorona Fuedo Arancio Syrah 2004
IGT Sicily, Italy $12.00 (621730)
Starts out with a quiet nose of rich cherry and earthy notes then belies its price point by delivering an astonishing mouthful of ripe, rich, black brambleberry fruit flavours that are layered and dense. The overall experience is enhanced by good balance and a lovely finish. Garnered a bronze medal at the 2006 Ottawa Wine and Food Show. Classy. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Kopke Full Rich Ruby Port
DOC Douro $14.10 (35766)
Gold Medal winner at the 2006 Ottawa Wine and Food Show. From the House of Kopke, one of the few (only?) remaining Portuguese family-owned Port houses, this opens with lifted aromatics of Christmas cake spice. It drenches the palate with viscous, plush, ripe black fruit then offers a lengthy and luxurious finish. This has a price to quality ratio that is tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Tribal African Terroir Merlot 2003
Western Cape, South Africa $8.95 (623702)
Pleasing spice and ripe black plum aromas and flavours abound on this medium-weight super value red. Winner of a bronze medal at the Ottawa Wine and Food Show in October 2006. The finish is well balanced with lovely fruit and a delightful tang, albeit short. Would pair up well to pizza. (VH)

**** drink now
Viña Cono Sur Merlot 2006
Central Valley, Chile $10.05 (457176)
An aromatic and lifted nose of cherry and black plum wafts from the glass of this classy, medium-textured red. The palate is treated to a fruit-forward (red and black berry) attack that is nicely balanced off with ripe tannin and a dollop of zesty tang. Hard to conceive how a wine of this stature sells for as little as it does. (VH)

Upstream In Winecurrent
Vintages Release November 25, 2006

**** cellar
Masi Mazzano Amarone
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $89.95 (8276)
Not for the faint of heart, this blasts from the glass with toasty oak and cherry aromas. The rich and concentrated flavours are a mélange of all the elegant things to come, chocolate, figs, raisins and sour cherry. For now they are wound tightly by the supple tannin structure and spine of acidity. Cellar 2012 - 2020 then revel in the richly concentrated nectar as you pour alongside osso bucco and a mushroom risotto. (VH)

Vintages Release December, 2006 (Wine of the Month)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Masi "Brolo di Campofiorin" 2003
IGT Rosso del Veronese $24.95 (976092)
Brolo is the equivalent of Clos, a small, walled vineyard. Expect ladles full of rich dark cherry fruit that is concentrated and layered. You will find spice, ripe tannin, a zesty tang and cooked fruit nuances that carry through to the luxurious and well-balanced finish. Round and ready to drink, this medium-textured gem will pour well to 2012. (VH)

Vintages Release January, 2007

****1/2 drink or cellar
Masi Amarone "Serego Alighieri Vaio Amaron" 2000
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $74.95 (462812)
Super rich sweet aromatics of Bing cherry blast from the glass of this stunning wine. Unique, in that it has been aged in cherry wood casks, it offers a traditional-styled Amarone with soft tannins, a silky smooth texture, and gobs of sweet (15.5% alcohol) red berry fruit flavours. The perfectly balanced finish, with that desirable bite, lasts 30 or more seconds signalling a drinking window now to 2020. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod 

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar