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October 14th, 2006 Release

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Rod was unable to attend this release tasting as he was in Toronto, leading a seminar on Chilean wines. He expects to be back in stride for the November releases.

Dessert wine

***1/2 drink now
Miguel Torres Moscatel Oro
DO Catalunya, Spain $15.95 (642173) 500 ml
This opens with fragrant aromatics of orange and honey followed by palate-coating candied fruit - pineapple, orange and apricot - and hints of cigar box. It is quite sweet, almost treacle-like, but is held together on the finish with enough zest and tang to keep it from becoming cloying. Serve it well chilled, as dessert or with crème caramel. (VH)

Canada: white

**** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham "Barrel Fermented" Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (268342)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) ... this is a quite opulent Chardonnay that's full-bodied and richly textured and flavoured. Look for peach and tropical fruit, with light toastiness from the barrel-fermentation and aging. The balance makes it a great match for roast chicken or grilled salmon. Drink or now or in the next three years. (RP)
****1/2 drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs "Delaine Vineyard" Riesling 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (017509)
A dazzler from Niagara that is a top shelf offering. Beguiling aromas of citrus, mineral and pineapple drift from the glass whilst the riveting flavours of stone fruit and zesty key lime burst on the palate. Light to medium-bodied, flavours are layered and delicious while the finish is dry and refreshing. Try this superb offering now to 2012 with ceviche. (VH)

Canada: red

**** drink or cellar
Château des Charmes Merlot "St. David's Bench" 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (453431)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) An involved nose of Bing cherry and mint wafts from this full to medium-bodied charmer. There are ladles full of ripe black raspberry and spiced black plum flavours plus nice cassis notes that are wrapped around a firm tannin structure. The finish is more of the same with a dollop of zest to keep it well balanced. Drink now to 2012 with rack of lamb. (VH)

California: white

**** drink or cellar
Clos du Val Chardonnay 2004
Carneros, Napa Valley $23.95 (297499)
Brioche and nectarine aromas waft from this fleshy and plush gem. Complementing the silky smooth delivery are luscious flavours of spiced apple (cinnamon, nutmeg) and a mélange of tropical fruit. Beautifully balanced, this medium-weight offering has the heft to go another 5 years, the perfect foil to steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter. (VH)

Washington State: white

****1/2 drink now
Hedges Family Estate "CMS White" Chardonnay/Marsanne/Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Columbia Valley $16.95 (008680)
A unique blend for white wine lovers. The lifted nose offers vanilla and tropical fruit. There is an explosion of ripe sweet flavours on the palate that include spiced pear, apple and ripe peach. The lengthy and luxurious, fruit-driven finish shows deft balance with apple compote juxtaposed to cleansing zestiness. Well made, well priced, stock up. (VH)

California: red

**** drink or cellar
Beringer Merlot 2003
Napa Valley $29.95 (919647)
This hedonistic red is all about round, velvety, lip-smacking pleasure. You will experience, black plum and sweet, black berry fruit aromas and similar flavours delivered on a medium-weight and beautifully textured frame. The finish is lengthy and seamless in replaying the concentrated and rich berry fruit. Enough tannin and zest here to give it interest and life. Drink now to 2012 with a hearty stew like a lamb daube. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Renwood "Sierra Series" Zinfandel 2003
Sierra Foothills $19.95 (942581)
This has 12% Syrah, 3% Merlot and 1% Alicante in the blend and was aged in American and French oak, both adding to structure and complexity. Discerning Zin aficionados will admire the celestial aromas and flavours of spice, cigar box and sweet, ripe bramble berry fruit. Medium-bodied, it exudes a wonderful balance, being held from jammy by a ripe tannin underpinning and a measure of zest and tang. Very attractively priced. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Rodney Strong Merlot 2002
Sonoma County $19.95 (497933)
Juicy black plum and spiced black currant aromas form the nose and follow through to the richly textured palate and luxurious, lengthy finish. There are perceptible, but acceptable, tannins and acidity (keeping it from jammy) and these, along with ripe succulent fruit flavours, provide impeccable balance, structure and complexity. The quality to price balance tips heavily in your favour. Throw a few in the cellar and consume now to 2010 with rack of lamb. (VH)

Mexico: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
L.A. Cetto Petite Sirah 2003
Valle de Guadalupe, Baja Peninsula $9.95 (983742)
One of those perennial favourites that provide an easy drinking well made wine at an attractive price point. Look for a round and pleasant quaffing red that offers red currant and plum aromas and flavours. Medium-bodied, it has a fruit-forward and medicinal finish that is a-typical, yet pleasant. Great party wine when you must foot the bill. (VH)

Australia: white

**** drink now
Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2005
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (458885)
SB typicity reigns here (they are a sister company to Cloudy Bay) as the pungently perfumed nose explodes from the glass with sharp grassy nettle and gooseberry aromas. It offers a mouth feel that is plush and textured while the flavours stay in the tangy citrus zone. The medium-length finish is dry and edgy, suggesting a pairing with a quiche crumbled generously with goat cheese. (VH)

Australia: red

**** drink or cellar
Cape Mentelle Cabernet/Merlot 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $21.95 (452508)
A lovely drop of red showing cassis and spice on the aromatic nose. Fleshy in texture, you will delight in the intense, concentrated flavours of currants and other black, ripe and juicy black berry fruit. Oodles going on here with dusty tannins and toasty oak nuances providing firm structure, good balance and lots of interest. Marry this to marinated and grilled flank steak, sliced thinly and served with herbed and roasted potatoes. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Torbreck "Woodcutter's" Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $23.95 (927533)
An involved and powerful nose offers a mélange of inviting aromas including spice box, dried fruit and lilac. This has depth and concentration of fruit redolent of Amarone. Cassis and bramble berry flavours are ably supported and enhanced by rich raisin and spicy fig nuances. It finishes silky smooth with a replay of flavours and a hint of cigar box. If you prefer wines with strength of character and flavour - stock up with this. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Margaret River, Western Australia $34.95 (686543)
It appears Margaret River did not entirely escape Europe's scorching 03 vintage and this ripe and ready Cab attests to that. This richly concentrated gem offers beguiling aromas and flavours of blueberry, eucalyptus, black licorice and tar. The ripe tannin structure is good underpinning to a wine that is oozing with flavour balanced by moderate acidity. Drink now to 2011 with a serious slab of garlicky and grilled rare strip loin. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Vasse Felix Shiraz 2003
Margaret River, Western Australia $36.95 (686550)
Sixteen months in French and American small oak barrels, meticulous vine and wine management and almost two decades of loving stewardship by the iconic Holmes à Court family have coalesced to fashion this heavenly wine. Expect lifted aromas of currant and roasted herbs from the opaque liquid. The flamboyant flavours, intense black cherry and spiced plum, exhibit depth and concentration as they attack in layers. Medium to full-bodied and deftly balanced, this would marry well to grilled back straps of lamb. (VH)

New Zealand: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Grove Mill Pinot Gris 2005
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (001693)
An idiosyncratic Pinot Gris that was wisely sealed under screw cap, ensuring that you will enjoy a similar experience. Beguiling aromatics of nutmeg, honey and floral notes drift off the glass of this creamy, medium to full-bodied gem. The flavour profile is of honeyed and sweet tropical fruit with a sweet and tangy lengthy finish. This has beautiful balance. Spicy Asian cuisine would be a perfect match. Superb! (VH)

**** drink now
Riversleigh Estate "Kotare" Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (697780)
This dazzler, with its pungent aromas and zingy flavour profile, will quickly separate the women from the girls. Nettles, gooseberry and sharp mineral aromatics open up this fruit-forward - savoury citrus and sharp green apple - gem. The finish is dry and cleansing, adding key lime zestiness. Tame this well-priced Kiwi with seared scallops. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (686675)
Good typicity here with grassy and gooseberry aromas that form the segue to this medium-bodied, well balanced SB. An action-packed flavour section delivers pineapple, peach and yellow plum. You will enjoy the prolonged finish as it adds citrus zest to the mix, ending refreshing and clean. Pour this with a green salad under light vinaigrette, sprinkled generously with crumbled chèvre. (VH)

New Zealand: red

**** drink now
Te Mania Pinot Noir Reserve 2004
Nelson, South Island $21.95 (000810)
Highly recommended their SB in October 05 and will do the same for this Pinot. Red plum and spicy notes form the nose of this light to medium-weight red. Flavours include cranberry and red currant whilst it is held together nicely with moderate acidity and very soft tannin. The overall effect is well balanced, well rounded and well priced. The silky smooth finish begs for a smoked duck breast appetizer. Drinking well now. (VH)

South Africa: red

**** drink now
Boekenhoutskloof Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2005
WO Coastal Region $14.95 (595280)
SA red wine lovers will flock to this. A crowd pleaser that opens with typical tar, leather and black fruit then offers a well balanced attack of fruit, cherry and plum, moderate acidity and soft tannin. Medium-bodied, well rounded and ready to quaff. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Stellenzicht "Golden Triangle" Shiraz 2004
WO Stellenbosch $21.95 (919597)
If you are a fan of those dark chocolate and tarry notes found often in SA wine - they form the robust nose of this one - look no further. 100% Shiraz from 25 year old vines; look for varietal character with peppery spiced plum and cherry flavours underpinned by good acidity and imperceptible tannin. The finish adds back the chocolate and tar notes. Serve at a braai aka bar b que or with boboti - a SA curried lamb dish. (VH)

**** drink now
Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap 2005
WO Western Cape $13.95 (626333)
The talented Marc Kent makes Boekenhoutskloof and Porcupine Ridge wines. The nose is tar and Bing cherry whilst the flavours are dark berry and spice-driven. This is round, creamy and silky smooth with enough acidity, toasted oak and tannin to add interest and structure to this well-priced red. Drink now with pasta in a Bolognese sauce. (VH)

France: white

**** drink now
Albert Mann Riesling "Cuvée Albert" 2004
AOC Alsace $25.95 (987073)
A blend of Grand Cru grapes here and the quality is evident. Tantalizing floral, mineral and peach notes float off the glass of this light to medium-textured white. You will uncover ladles of zesty citrus tang balanced nicely with pineapple and pear flavours. The finish is tangy and medium in length. Pour with smoked salmon appetizers. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Léon Beyer Riesling "Les Ecaillers" 2001
AOC Alsace $29.95 (955401)
From the fragrant nose of petrol, slate and stone fruit to the lengthy finish of lemon-lime zest, this is gorgeous. It is beautifully textured - creamy and oily - with apple, peach and pineapple flavours galore. It is also dry, clean and refreshing, suggesting a perfect pairing with a pork roast or choucroute garni. You might cellar another 5 years to enjoy enhanced fruit flavours and the late-developing pungent petrol aromas. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jean Chartron Puligny-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes 2004
AOC Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy $62.95 (525097)
Smoke, oak and spice blow off the lifted aromatic profile of this old vines Chardonnay. Gobs of tropical fruit and spicy stone fruit flavours wash over the palate in waves while the medium-bodied texture adds a gloriously creamy sensation. The finish is lengthy and luxurious while the balance and structure are elegant. Worth every penny. (VH)

***1/2 cellar
Maison Champy Pernand-Vergelesses 2004
AOC Pernand-Vergelesses, Burgundy $28.95 (008151)
Aromas of vanilla and toasty oak form the segue to this medium-textured white that begs for time to develop the presently astringent flavours. There are nuances of apple and pear that will develop and put flesh on the wine. The zesty and citrussy finish portends a wine that will easily match to Caesar salad, lightly dressed and topped with grilled chicken strips. Drink 2008 to 2012. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
"Marie-Antoinette Vincent" Pouilly-Fuissé 2004
AOC Pouilly-Fuissé, Burgundy $22.95 (525113)
Brioche and leesy aromas lead one to this medium-weight, nicely textured wine. Expect green apple and vanilla flavours on the palate that adds a nice touch of spicy apple compote to the dry finish. This is well-priced and would pour nicely alongside a lightly herbed chicken or veal dish. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Jean Pabiot et Fils Domaine des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fumé 2004
AOC Pouilly-Fumé, Loire $24.95 (695908)
This is a gorgeous effort from the former benchmark region for world class Sauvignon Blanc, before Marlborough, New Zealand dethroned them. The beguiling aromas are freshly sliced peaches and citrussy notes. Expect a creamily-textured, full-bodied tangy white with layers of flavours including Granny Smith apple, slate and lemon zest. The long dry finish suggests a perfect pairing with grilled white fish. (VH)

**** drink now
Fournier "Les Maulins Bâles" Sancerre 2004
AOC Sancerre, Loire $22.95 (651091)
From the left bank of the Upper Loire, just across from Pouilly-Fumé, these wines are racy, sometimes pungent, and built for early consumption. Quintessential SB aromas of gooseberry and nettles with a hint of minerality mark this light to medium-bodied charmer. Spoonfuls of citrus and zest fill the mouth and infuse the long cleansing finish. Would be the perfect foil to green lip mussels steamed in this white wine. (VH)

France: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Vincent Girardin Bourgogne Pinot Noir "Cuveé Saint-Vincent" 2004
AOC Burgundy $19.95 (717966)
Pleasing aromas of red currant with nutty nuances drift from this well-priced, light-bodied red. The flavours are redolent of cranberry and blueberry whilst the dry finish adds a touch of earthiness and zest. Pour, slightly chilled, alongside roast chicken. (VH)

*** drink now
Domaine Bassac Merlot 2004
Vin de Pays des Côtes de Thongue $12.95 (730978)
Cherry and red berry aromas and flavours run the entire length of this light-bodied quaffer. It is dry, nicely balanced and worth a punt, given the price point. The tangy finish speaks to a pairing with lightly herbed and spiced veal or chicken dishes. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Santa Duc Cuvée Tradition 2003
AOC Gigondas, Rhône $32.95 (011601)
This Grenache/Mourvèdre/Syrah/Cinsault blend is the real deal. Hand picked, 14 months in large oak casks and bottled unfiltered, it offers powerful aromas of tar, leather and licorice. The flavours drench the palate with sweet (15% alcohol) black, ripe, juicy, concentrated fruit. Cassis and spicy bramble berry are to the fore. The finish is monumental, lasting +25 seconds. Drink now - 2015 with a holiday game bird. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Mas des Bressades Cabernet/Syrah 2004
Vin de Pays du Gard $16.95 (712174)
Surely, one of the most consistent red wine bargains in the wine world. Black licorice, toast (14 months in new oak) and leather aromas drift off the glass of this 70% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Flavours - Bing cherry and sweet cassis - explode on the palate. This medium to full-bodied red delivers a prolonged finish as a variation on a theme adding spice and gamey notes. Pick up a case, drink on its own or with hearty stews. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Mas de Boislauzon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône $39.95 (004333)
Wonderful depth and balance here, it manages to incorporate ripe fruit from the blistering 03 vintage with moderate acidity and character. It opens with a lifted nose of sweet berries plus notes of cedar. The fruit flavours, black raspberry and spicy plum, are rich and concentrated, not jammy or overblown. It is all held in delicate balance by the moderate acidity and ripe tannin structure. Good to go another 7 or 8 years. (VH)

Germany - white

**** drink or cellar
Geil Gewürztraminer Spätlese Feinherb 2004
QmP Rheinhessen $16.95 (010249)
This late harvest beauty delivers quintessential Gewürzt aromas of rosewater and spice. Medium to full-bodied, it offers a satiny smooth mouthful of rich and sweet stone fruit coupled with cinnamon and nutmeg. The luxurious finish has that classic lime zest bite along with a heavenly sweet and sour sensation that marries so well to spicy Asian cuisine, say tandoori chicken. At a marvellous price point for wine of this quality. (VH)
Italy: white

**** drink now
Pieropan Soave Classico 2005
DOC Soave Classico, Veneto $15.95 (946848)
A superior Soave that opens with tantalizing floral aromatics. The flavours are primarily citrus, but it manages considerable texture and structure to provide both balance and interest. This is refreshingly delicious and adds mineral notes on the lengthy and dry finish. Lovely for sipping on its own, would certainly pair well to grilled shellfish drizzled with freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

Italy: red

**** drink or cellar
Terra d'Aligi "Tatone" Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2002
DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo $15.95 (994616)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This has really lovely flavours, full of rich, textured dark fruit with herbal and spicy notes. Medium bodied with light tannins, it's ready for drinking now with osso bucco or cellaring another two or three years. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Cantina Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2001
DOCG Barbaresco, Piedmont $28.95 (708826)
From a large cooperative possessing a reputation for producing fine wine. This offering is light to medium-bodied with delicate aromas, lilacs and leather, and flavours that are redolent of cranberry and dried cherry. There is considerable tannin and acidity in this providing a drying finish. Drink now with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

**** cellar
Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d'Alba 2001
DOCG Barolo, Piedmont $39.95 (943290)
Plush and pleasing, this smoothly textured N. Italian red has lots to offer in the way of structure and charm. The aromatic profile delivers fragrances of lilacs and leather, while the flavours that treat the palate include black currant, raisin and ladles of zesty tang. The tannins are also quite supple. The medium-length finish has more black fruit, fig plus generous zest. Tuck this away until 2009 then drink over the following 6 years. (VH)

***1/2 cellar
Antinori Solaia "Annata Diversa" 2002
IGT Toscana $129.95 (987586)
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc, this red blend was aged 14 months in oak before aging another 12 in the bottle before release. 2002 was a very wet and not-so-great year for the region. Lovely floral, minty and berry aromas form the segue to this medium-textured, still tightly wound cellar dweller. The fruit is still overpowered by the tannin and a bit out of sorts with the acidity. Try 2010 to 2015 (VH)

**** drink now
Banfi "Centine" 2004
IGT Toscana $16.95 (947440) or 375mL $9.95 (980649)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Leather and red currant aromatics open the door to this mellow and smooth offering. Banfi is one of the most respected producers in the world and this Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot blend shows why. Silky on the palate, there are fruit flavours of crushed black currants and spicy cherries while tannins are imperceptible. Drink now with curried goat or spicy beef dishes. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 1999
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino, Toscana $54.95 (651588)
This is sublime. It is showing a bit of age on the orange-bricky rim whilst the captivating aromas include sweaty saddle leather and bramble berry. The Herculean flavours attack the palate with layers of currant, raisin and a hint of gaminess. Overall, it is rich, elegant, well structured, deftly balanced and divine. The lengthy finish seamlessly echoes the flavourful experience. Drink now to 2012 following a 3 hour decant. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 1999
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino, Toscana $59.95 (579086)
A quiet nose of lilac, forest floor and cranberry aromas lead the way to this light to medium-bodied Brunello aka Sangiovese Grosso. This is very approachable now with flavours of soft red berry and spice. This would match well to veal shanks. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Vicchiomaggio "San Jacopo" Chianti Classico 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico, Toscana $17.95 (710194)
John Matta is a meticulous owner/wine maker and he seldom misses the mark. This, no exception, opens with a forward bouquet of floral and cherry then gets into gear with oodles of rich, ripe, fruit-forward flavours that include black berry and rich cherry. The lengthy finish shows more rich fruit. It earned its final half star on price. Stock up. (VH)

***** drink now
Corte Zovo "Sa Solin" Ripasso 2003
DOC Valpolicella $15.95 (650713)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a ripper. Sour cherry and spicy black plum aromatics drift off the glass from this medium weight crowd pleaser. It is well structured with balancing acidity and supple tannin while delivering copious amounts of fresh, juicy ripe red fruit on the palate and finish. There is a delightful seam of tar and black licorice that adds interest to the fruit flavours. Worthy of a case purchase to be consumed over the next 2 years. (VH)

**** drink now
Santa Margherita "Versato" Merlot 2002
IGT Veneto $16.95 (933333)
Toasty oak and red berry aromas flit from the glass of this medium-bodied red. Rich flavours include currant and cranberry with a slight hint of red licorice. The tannins are imperceptible whilst the finish is lengthy with a spine of zesty acidity. Well balanced, it would marry well to lasagne or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tommasi Valpolicella Classico Superior "Ripasso" 2003
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superior, Veneto $19.95 (910430)
A quiet nose of sweet black berry fruit opens up a glorious experience for lucky tasters. The fruit-forward nature of this wine unleashes a salvo of flavours including rich and concentrated cherry and bramble berry infused with fruit cake spice and dark chocolate. The memorable finish has gobs of black sweet fruit and black pepper with a hint of cigar box. At this price, flip open the trunk and toss in a case. (VH)
**** drink or cellar
Valpantena Amarone Della Valpolicella 2003
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella, Veneto $33.95 (981316)
An embarrassment of riches here with beguiling aromatics of fig and raisin that bring on a barrage of flavours in the rich and concentrated, dried currant and plum zone. This medium-bodied gem has balance, depth of flavour and is well structured. A lengthy and luxurious fruit forward finish ties a ribbon around the package. Drink now to 2012. (VH)

Spain: white

***1/2 drink now
Miguel Torres "Gran Viña Sol" Chardonnay 2005
DO Penedès $15.45 (064774)
This perennial crowd pleaser, from a respected producer, shows floral notes on the nose and lovely tropical fruit, peach and nectarine, on its medium-bodied frame. The finish is clean and refreshing adding generous amounts of pear and green apple flavour to the mix. A lovely wine to quaff on its own, it also works well with seafood appetizers. (VH)

Spain: red


****1/2 drink or cellar
Condado de Haza Crianza 2003
DO Ribera del Duero $24.95 (963348)
Iconic owner, Alejandro Fernández, is Spain's most avid proponent of Tempranillo; you do not have to wonder which grape is in here. Lifted aromas of cassis, leather and raspberry blast from the glass. Robust, deeply concentrated flavours of cassis, red licorice and spicy notes are beautifully balanced off with fine grained tannin and moderate acidity. Finishing with a rich fruit attack, the overall effect is quite delightful. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar