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September 30, 2006 Release

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

This release features some very good to excellent wines from Bordeaux. It then carries on in the usual fashion.

France: red Bordeaux

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Haut-Bergey 2002
AOC Pessac-Léognan $54.95 (002667)

This left bank gem, softer and more approachable than most, shows its stuff with a lifted nose of smoke and spiced plums. Rich currant and spice box flavours are underpinned by ripe tannin and good acidity all contributing to its deft balance. It is richly textured and provides a lengthy finish of blueberry, cherry and sweet tobacco flavours. Pricey, it still offers pretty good value. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château Lalande-Borie 2001
AOC Saint-Julien, Cru Bourgeois $28.95 (584227)
Aromas of toast and red cherry waft from the glass of this medium-weight, predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, red. It offers an up front fruit attack that wanes a bit mid-palate, but returns on the well balanced finish. The tannins are soft and acidity has been held well in check. This is a good quaffing wine at a reasonable price point. Pair with chicken tikka masala from now to 2010. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron "Les Tourelles de Longueville" 2002
AOC Paulliac $49.95 (733055)

No accident that 3 First Growths (Lafite, Latour, Mouton) hail from Paulliac. A toasty, spicy nose is the lovely segue to this full-bodied and very assertive red. There is a glorious black cherry fruit attack that flirts with flavours of black licorice and cedar. The finish is long and luxurious and sports black berry, chocolate and tar flavours. It offers great balance and will drink optimally 2008 - 2012. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château Brondelle "Cuvée Damien" 2000
AOC Graves $28.95 (902973)

This, from a wonderful vintage, offers a smoky tarry nose to get you started. It is quite fruit forward (cherry and currant plus some lingering spicy notes), offers good acidity and is quite well balanced on its medium-weight frame. Good to go now and for another 5 years, this would be a nice match to boeuf bourguignon. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
"Christian Moueix" Pomerol 2004
AOC Pomerol $24.95 (903013)
Oak and toasty notes blow off the nose of this richly flavoured medium-weight gem. Gobs of black currant and black cherry flavours are present while dollops of acidity serve to balance it all out. This is a straightforward wine at an attractive price point. I suggest drinking this over the next 3 to 4 years with a lamb daube. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Château Peychaud "Maisonneuve" 2003
AOC Côtes de Bourg, Vieilles Vignes $19.95 (002246)

This is an easy drinking well priced red with enough heft and grip to give it another 2 or 3 years life. Fruit forward (cherry and red currant), it has good balance and smoky nuances from the nose to the medium length finish. Good to quaff on its own, you might try with pasta in a veal cream sauce. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Fontenil 2003
AOC Fronsac $39.95 (591107)

The ubiquitous M. Rolland presents his own wine here and it delivers what he is famous for - full-bodied with a forward fruit attack, deft balance and good grip. What's not to like? Savoury and toasty aromas drift from the very quiet nose, but this is rich and concentrated on the palate with its bramble berry and cassis flavours. Ample acidity and perceptible tannin help make this a keeper. At its best 2008 to 2015 or now, if you decant 4 hours. Extremely well priced and worthy of a multiple purchase. (VH)

**** cellar
Château du Courlat "Cuvée Jean-Baptiste" 2003
AOC Lussac-Saint-Émilion $26.95 (002238)

Drink 2008 to 2014, an a-typically long-lived wine for this appellation. The nose is quite subdued with its charcoal and tobacco nuances then it springs to life as a medium-weight red with good cassis and berry fruit flavours. There are perceptible tannins and excellent acidity to provide delicate balance and good structure. If you must drink now, decant for 4 or 5 hours and pair with a strip loin, grilled medium rare. Very good value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château St. Georges 2001
AOC St-Georges-St-Émilion $38.95 (960310)

Vintage after vintage, this offers good value. Beguiling leather and toasty notes on the nose lead the taster into a medium to full-bodied gem that offers layers of richly textured fruit (black currant, with some licorice) with underlying mint tones. The lengthy finish offers a balanced delivery of fruit (more currants and cranberry), acidity and fine grained tannin. Pour 2008 - 2012 alongside beef carpaccio with a Cipriani sauce. (VH)


****1/2 drink now
Château Gigault "Cuvée Viva" 2003
AOC Premières Côtes de Blaye $29.95 (579318)

Showing characteristics of the hot 2003 vintage, you will find a port-like nose of warm spiced cherry compote coupled with tarry notes. It is dark and brooding in the glass and offers a sweet (14.5% alcohol) new world, fruit forward (bramble berry and hints of fig) attack that also reflects the softer blend (90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon). All that to say, it is not jammy, has good structure and balance, offers a lengthy rich finish and is exceptionally well priced. (VH)

France: white Bordeaux

**** drink now
Château Thieuley Blanc  2005
AOC Bordeaux, Sauvignon/Sémillon $15.95 (002170)

Slate, floral and mineral aromas form the nose of this dry and refreshing white blend. There are zesty, tangy pit fruit and citrus flavours galore on the palate and the cleansing finish. They all serve to mark this medium-weight gem as a candidate for seafood. Try with seared scallops drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon. Good value. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château Haut-Mayne 2003
AOC Sauternes $22.95 (592626)

This rich Sauternes, from the hot 2003 vintage, over-delivers on fruit. Look for yellow plum, apricot and peach with a veneer of bitter honey. There's a lovely seam of acidity running through it, making it an excellent partner for food. (RP)

Sparkling wine

**** drink now
Cloudy Bay Pelorus NV
Marlborough, South Island $29.95 (942417)
This, from the iconic Marlborough producer of SB, delivers a leesy nose and an energetic, yet finely streamed, mousse in the glass. You will savour a robust initial attack of Granny Smith apple and pear flavours on a lovely textured and medium-weight body. This has enough heft and character to easily stand alone as a welcoming wine for special friends or be paired with a variety of fish, chicken or veal dishes. (VH)

California: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Artezin Zinfandel 2003
Napa/Amador/Mendocino Counties $21.95 (004887)

This is for Zinfandel wine lovers and those who want to dip their toe in the waters of great wine and terrible play on words. From the gargantuan nose of berries, tar and mint to the lengthy luxurious finish of black raspberry and spiced black plum, this will separate the woman from the girls. The palate is treated to waves of deep, rich, concentrated, sweet (15.5% alcohol) black fruit, balanced and held from jammy by ripe tannin and tangy acidity. All in all, Zinfully delicious and offering great value. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Bonterra Merlot 2003
Mendocino County $19.95 (984724)
This starts off with a subdued nose of red berry fruit and delicate spice, but delivers in spades with a round, mellow and smooth mouthful of sweet (15.5% alcohol) black plum and Bing cherry flavours on a medium-weight frame. The finish is equally as interesting with more ripe fruit intertwined with chocolate and cinnamon notes. Lovely on its own or would pour proudly alongside a Thanksgiving bird stuffed with dried fruit. (VH)

**** drink now
Chateau St. Jean Pinot Noir 2004
Sonoma County $25.95 (687970)

Beguiling on the nose, lilac, rich black currant and earthy tones, it offers gorgeously sweet ripe fruit (blackberry and cranberry) in a medium-bodied texture. There is good balance and a fairly lengthy finish that delivers more dark berry fruit, including blueberry, and a dollop of zest. Drink over the next 3 years with smoked duck. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Murphy-Goode Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Alexander Valley $32.95 (995142)

There are 1% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot in this Cabernet, which delivers rich, sweet, ripe fruit in layers of wild berries, black cherries and dark plum, with scattered notes of spice. The tannins are firm and sweet. This is a natural with steak. (RP)

Australia: white

****1/2 drink now
Elderton "Unwooded" Chardonnay 2006
Barossa, South Australia $14.95 (906453)

This is a ripper! The lifted nose of tropical fruit sets up this medium-textured white that over-delivers on the palate and price to quality ratio. You will be treated to a huge fruit attack of ripe peach, pineapple and nectarine. More of the same as the lively finish also delivers zesty citrus to keep it clean and refreshing. Rare to experience this much heft and texture without oak. Good balance, good structure and a good idea to stock up. (VH)  

Australia: red

****1/2 drink now
Elderton "Friends" Shiraz 2003
Barossa, South Australia $19.95 (660480)

There is smoke and oak on the somewhat funky nose, but the flavour profile is clean and neat. Flavours of sweet, rich and concentrated black fruit (cherry and plum) abound in this medium-weight offering. The finish is lengthy and offers more fruit, a hint of coffee and almost perfect balance. These folks have won the Jimmy Watson and know how to make wine; always offering value for money, this earned its final half star on price. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Lindemans "Limestone Ridge Vineyard" Shiraz/Cabernet 2001
Coonawarra, South Australia $49.95 (353573)

A trio that has been on my radar screen for years and this Limestone doesn't disappoint. An involved nose and palate is first revealed by eucalyptus and ripe black cherry aromas. It explodes in the mouth with robustly textured fruit, including black plum and bramble berry, generously complemented with chocolate, mint and gamey flavours. The luxurious finish echoes this along with a generous touch of oak. Drink 2010 to 2018. (VH)
 
***1/2 drink now
Lindemans "St. George Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Coonawarra, South Australia $47.95 (353581)

This opens with an interesting aromatic profile of currants, tar and notes of forest floor. The flavours are all up front and offer black ripe cherry, concentrated cassis and the ubiquitous cherry. This has a pleasant and lengthy finish. Quite surprisingly, this is drinking well now. Match to grilled red meats or rich and hearty stew. (VH)

***** drink or cellar two glasses
Lindemans "Pyrus" Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc  2001
Coonawarra, South Australia $49.95 (353565)

I remember the first Pyrus I drank. It was late at night at a friend's house in Sydney (Australia). We'd already emptied a couple of bottles, and he opened another as a nightcap. Our first sips stopped us in our tracks and my friend exclaimed, "Shit! I had no idea what I was opening." I've never looked back; Pyrus has been one of my favourite drops ever since. The 2001 is another winner, an elegant, concentrated beauty with layers of flavour, huge complexity and marvellous balance. It's ready to drink now with a medium-rare rack of lamb and a good friend. (RP)

***** drink now
Water Wheel "Memsie" Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2004
Bendingo, Victoria $15.95 (656637)

This red blend is an Aussie fruit bomb with structure and balance. The aromas include the usual suspects of black cherry and spiced plum then it steps into overdrive with ladles of ripe, sweet (14.8% alcohol), juicy, bramble berry fruit and cassis. This richly concentrated behemoth is held in balance with enough zesty tang and generous tannin structure to avoid jammy. Its finish is monumental adding cloves, tar and licorice tones. The price to quality balance weighs heavily in your favour. Pick up a cartful. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Yalumba "The Signature" Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2001
Barossa, South Australia $44.95 (528356)

A bottle of delicious, fruit-forward wine that shows sweet black fruit and berries with notes of spice, pepper and eucalyptus. Everything is well integrated here-the sweet tannins included-and this is ready to drink now (with grilled red meat) or over the next two or three years. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Yalumba "Tricentenary Vines" Grenache 2002
Barossa, South Australia $39.95 (588186)

This is a superb wine. The aromatic nose offers spicy, tarry notes with loads of red berry fruit. The flavours are simply magnificent, layers and layers of juicy black plum and cassis that are carefully wrapped in a ripe tannin structure and good zesty acidity. Surprisingly low alcohol -14.0%, given the varietal, whilst the elegant depth and delicate balance shown here are seldom found in Grenache. (VH)

New Zealand: white

***1/2 drink or cellar
Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2004
Marlborough, South Island $29.95 (359513)
This is a well-made Chardonnay from the maker of New Zealand's iconic Sauvignon Blanc. Expect to find solid fruit from front to back here, with attractive flavours of peach and some tropical notes. The texture is crisp and clean and this makes a very good partner to herbed roast chicken. (RP)

**** drink now
Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc  2005
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (919514)
A quiet herbaceous (grass and nettles) nose opens this light to medium-bodied Kiwi. You will discover gooseberry and slate on the palate along with some zingy lemon-lime zest. This is dry, clean and refreshing suggesting a pairing with any manner of chèvre or pasta in a generous (pine nut, parsley, parmesan) pesto sauce. (VH)

South Africa: white

**** drink now
Robertson Winery "Retreat" Sauvignon Blanc  2005
WO Robertson $14.95 (933085)
The intriguing nose of tropical fruit and bell pepper is the perfect segue to this medium-bodied SA beauty. There is a glorious fruit (apple, pear and zesty citrus) attack on the palate that leads to a cleansing finish that adds on another layer of flavour with lively spicy notes. Serve with mussels steamed in a, or this, white wine sauce. (VH)

South Africa: red

****1/2 drink now
Graham Beck "The William" Cabernet Sauvignon/Pinotage 2001
WO Coastal Region $22.95 (593467)

This Cape Blend is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Pinotage, and carries its 14% alcohol effortlessly. It's already more than five years old (remember, they harvest six months earlier in the Southern Hemisphere) and it's showing some age in its deep brick colour. The fruit is shifting to the dried variety, too, with some prune and dried fig flavours among the dark fruit and berries. I really like this, and it's a great partner for a grilled veal chop with garlic mash. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Lammershoek "Barrique" Pinotage 2004
WO Swartland $17.95 (954594)

This is a great Pinotage from the sun-baked Swartland region. It delivers huge, concentrated black fruit flavours, firm tannins and a finish that goes on and on. If Pinotage means bitter and burnt flavours to you, test drive this one. Have a piece of grilled red meat handy. (RP)

**** drink now
Robertson Winery "Prospect Hill" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
WO Robertson $18.95 (687814)

An easy quaffing, well-priced offering that is drinking beautifully now. Rounded and plush, this Cab has lovely aromatics of mint and plum with generous flavours of black cherry and cinnamon on its medium-weight frame. The lingering finish is redolent of toasty oak and ripe berry fruit. Pair this with veal shanks and garlic mashed. (VH)

**** drink now
Robertson Winery Wolfkloof Shiraz 2004
WO Robertson $19.95 (626341)

The unobtrusive nose has spicy black plum and sweet floral notes. However, the flavour profile is attractively lively and robust with gobs of peppery black plum and cola. This is well balanced with good zest, a well handled oak regimen and enough ripe tannin to give it reasonable structure. Pour with grilled lamb tenderloins, garlicked and herbed. (VH)

France: red

**** drink now
Mas Janeil Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2003
AOC Midi $15.95 (992800)

Spice box aromas drift off the nose while the flavours are all sweet ripe berry fruit - raspberry and blackberry. The texture is medium-weight while the perceptible tannins are ripe, providing structure and interest. Overall, a richly concentrated, low acid effort from the blistering '03 vintage. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de l'Ameillaud Cairanne 2004
AOC Cairanne Côtes-du-Rhône Villages $14.95 (660605)

Cairanne is a geographical village and a special designation on Côtes-du-Rhône wine to signify wines considered to be of high quality. This gem, from 40+ year old vines, is rich and concentrated, showing rich sweet black fruit (blackberry, currant) flavours with nuances of leather, loads of spice and deft balance. It also has good grip, giving it at least another 3 years ageing potential. This earned its final half star on price, stock up. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône $55.95 (951475)

A classy offering that shows well most vintages; this one is no exception. A richly textured and flavoured wine that drenches the palate, expect layers of creamily textured, spiced and herbed Bing cherry and bramble berry fruit nicely underpinned by supple tannins and moderate acidity. All is in balance, not overly oaked or jammy, portending an optimum drinking window now, with a 4 hour decant, to 2014. (VH)

Italy: red

****1/2 cellar
Fontanafredda Barbaresco Coste Rubin 2001
DOCG Barbaresco, Piedmont $39.95 (500827)

Showing its age and the Nebbiolo colouring with its orange-bricky rim, this has lots of life remaining. The aromatics are beguiling, lilac and licorice predominant, while the flavours are in the ripe berry, cherry and cranberry zones. The medium-length finish is dry, shows considerable tannin and is simply gorgeous with its fruit and spicy overtones. Drink 2008 to 2014 with osso bucco and porcini risotto. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Spadina Una Rosa "Signature" Nero d'Avola 2002
IGT Sicilia $19.95 (010330)

This offers an earthy, gamey nose and a flavour profile of sweet black cherry and berry fruit on a medium-weight frame. The finish is medium in length, delivering a serious dollop of zesty tang along with good sweet fruit. This would pair extremely well with pasta in a tomato and herb-based sauce. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fontodi Chianti Classico 2003
DOCG Chianti Classico, Tuscany $27.95 (933317)

It all begins with a lifted nose of compelling lilac and strawberry aromas. The texture of this wine is medium, while the fruit profile is sweet and dazzling - blueberry, strawberry and spice. There is bracing acidity, yet it blends perfectly with the rich fruit and barely perceptible tannin. The lengthy finish is dry and cleansing. Drink on its own, from now to 2014, to appreciate the experience. (VH)
***** drink or cellar
Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
DOCG Chianti Classico, Tuscany $34.95 (512384)

This magnificent wine benefits from the addition of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, a 14 month French oak regimen and the meticulous viticulture and viniculture practices of a pristine estate. Licorice and tar aromas waft from this elegant effort. Black berry and currant flavours are bolstered by chocolate and coffee notes on the palate. The lengthy finish echoes these, adding a hint of tobacco. Chianti-lovers miss this at their peril. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2001
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella, Veneto $34.95 (995910)

Anisette and berry aromas form the segue to this beautifully crafted Amarone. Full-bodied and robust, the fruit forward flavours of berry and cherry intermingle with interesting nuances of kreosote and leather. The finish is not shy either, offering more of the same fruit, herbed and spiced, and enough grip and zest to offer nice balance. Difficult to find better Amarone at this price point. (VH)

Spain: white

**** drink now
"Esencia Diviñia" Albariño 2005
DO Rias Baixas $16.95 (581900)

I wish the LCBO/Vintages would carry Albariño more consistently, because it's so often a delicious, refreshing wine that complements grilled seafood and fish. This one has attractive soft flavours of white peach and apricot pit, with hints of white pepper. It has good, refreshing acidity that's in great balance with the fruit. This is a very good buy. (RP)

Spain: red

***1/2 cellar
Alejandro Fernández Pesquera Crianza 2003
DO Ribera del Duero $26.95 (341461)

Returns to the spotlight with a good effort. Strawberry, blueberry and cherry flavours abound in the medium-bodied dry red. The fruit carries through to the lengthy finish, adding spice along the way, where dollops of acidity keep this clean and refreshing. Enough tannin present to keep it interesting, provide structure and they will need time to tame. Pour alongside Paella. Drink 2008 to 2012. (VH)

**** drink now
Lan Gran Reserva 1998
DOC Rioja $27.95 (928662)

Toasty oak and spiced plum aromas drift from this zesty medium-bodied red. Montmorency cherry and cranberry flavours combine with generous acidity. The lengthy finish offers more of the same with a well balanced addition of ripe tannins. Already 8 years old, this is at its peak. Drink now with pasta in a bolognaise sauce (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Muga Reserva 2002
DOC Rioja $19.95 (177345)

This is really great value. The Muga name carries its own reputation and this vintage of the Reserva is in line with the tradition of quality. It's full of concentrated dark fruit and berries with notes of spice and bitter chocolate and has a tangy texture. Buy a couple for drinking now and a few more to put away for three-four years. (RP)

Upstream

Vintages release TBA

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rockford "Basket Press" Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $71.95 (736488)
Always popular and for good reason, this is one of the most elegant Shirazes to come out of Australia. It offers a mélange of dark fruit and berry flavours that are ripe and sweet without a hint of jamminess. The texture is vibrant and the tannins are fine and sweet. This is a terrific drop that's drinking well now and will improve over the next five years. (RP)

Vintages release late Fall 2006

****1/2 drink or cellar
d'Arenberg Cadenzia GSM 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (661587)

Big, bold and beautiful, this is full of dense black fruit and is impressive in its complexity. They've got the blend just right here. The texture is smooth, the tannins are sweet, and the finish is a long experience of complex fruit. (RP)

Vintages release November 2006

****1/2 drink or cellar
DeBortoli Pinot Noir 2003
Yarra Valley, Victoria $39.95 (10744)

This is a substantial Pinot Noir in a definitive New World style. Look for concentrated fruit, notably sweet cherry, with herbal and spicy accents. It's all wrapped in a plush texture with an attractive edge, and finishes with spicy dark fruit. Pour it alongside a plate of grilled duck breast or lamb chops. (RP)

Vintages release November 2006

**** drink or cellar
d'Arenberg "Sticks and Stones" Tempranillo-Grenache-Souzão 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $29.95 (685909)

A blend of three Iberian grape varieties (Souzão is one of the less-known Port grapes), this delivers rich flavours of plum, blackberry, and mulberry with some raisiny, spicy and earthy notes. It has an attractive tangy texture and good tannins, and goes very well with well-seasoned grilled lamb. (RP)

Vintages release November 2006

****1/2 drink or cellar
DeBortoli "Noble One" Botrytis Semillon 2003
Riverina, New South Wales $29.95/375ml (917252)

A regular in Vintages, and always a popular arrival. Look for rich, honeyed apricot and peach flavours wrapped in a softly viscous texture. A good seam of acidity cuts through the sweetness and makes this a wonderful partner for sweet, fruit-based desserts. (RP)

Vintages release March 2007

**** drink or cellar
Mesh Riesling 2005
Eden Valley, South Australia $30.95 (627877)

A delicious dry Riesling that delivers concentrated and focused fruit with crisp and zesty acidity. Look for flavours of pear and sweet apple with a seam of white grapefruit, and pair this with lightly spicy grilled seafood. (RP)

Vintages release May 2007

****1/2 drink or cellar
Thorn-Clarke "Shotfire Ridge Quartage" 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $27.00

This elegant, rich red is a blend of five Bordeaux varieties (only the Carmenère is missing). It's in a clear New World style that's fruit-dominant, but it's well structured and complex and very well balanced for food. Look for concentrated dark fruit and berry flavours, firm tannins and a rich fruit finish. (RP)

New in Vintages

California

**** cellar
Groth Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Oakville, Napa Valley (606517) $74.95
This cellar dweller has lovely aromatics of mint and cherry from its subdued nose. The tannins are tightly wound at this point and need considerable time to tame. There is fruit, Montmorency cherry and cranberry, but difficult to appreciate now. The finish adds spice and cassis. Don't look at this until 2012 then drink to 2020 and beyond. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Whitehall Lane Winery Merlot 2003
Napa Valley (4408) $37.95

There is interest and depth in this beautifully built red. The mere touch of 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc  give it a generous roundness to the mid-palate. The flavours are lively, earthy, spicy and full and fruit - currants and berries. The 18 months in small American and French barrels was not overdone The drying tannin on the lengthy finish portends ageability. Drinking beautifully, now to 2012. (VH)

New Zealand

****1/2 drink now
Coopers Creek Sauvignon Blanc  2005
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (957407)
Expect great typicity with gooseberry and grassy aromas then wonderfully robust tropical fruit and citrus flavours that wash over the palate in waves. This is clean, dry and refreshing throughout. The finish is citrus and tang, calling for seared tuna with a slice of lemon drizzled over. Even more attractive being only $15.95 until Oct. 8. (VH)

New in LCBO
California

**** drink now
Gallo Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc  2005
Sierra Valley $10.05 (009373

Fresh and zingy, it begins with a lifted nose of gooseberry and nettles. There are outstanding fruit flavours (citrus, pineapple and peach) that gush from the glass and treat the palate to a beautifully textured taste and tangy treat. The lingering finish is clean and refreshing, just begging for grilled fish with a drizzle of lemon. An outstanding purchase to be made here. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Gallo "Turning Leaf" Chardonnay 2004
California $12.05 (409805)

The peach and tropical fruit flavours are very attractive, as is the smooth, round texture. This is simply a well-made Chardonnay that will pair well with many foods such as seared, roasted pork tenderloin with a fruit compote. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve Particuliere Multi-Vintage
AOC Champagne $40.55 (537605)

All yeasty and toasty on the nose, the steady stream of tiny bubbles signals character. This is followed by a wonderful attack of apple compote, nectarine and citrus flavours. All in all, it is zesty, refreshing and simply delightful. Has the charm to go it alone as an aperitif plus the body and structure to pair with light cuisine. Wonderful Non Vintage Champagne that you can serve proudly and that earned its final half star on price. (VH)

France

***1/2 drink now
Lulu B. Pinot Noir 2005
Vin de Pays d'Oc $12.85 (669010)

This southern French Pinot delivers good value. It's dry with solid fruit (tart and sweet cherry) flavours, some complexity and very good balance. Drink it with grilled lamb chops. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Red Bicyclette Chardonnay 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc $14.95 (621789)

This offers quite intense and attractive aromas and flavours of peach and tropical fruit, smooth texture and good balance. Drink it with pork tenderloin or herbed chicken breast. (RP)

Germany

***1/2 drink now
Drathen Piesporter Michelsbourg Riesling 2005
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Qba (042713) $9.05

Slate and a slight hint of petrol on the nose, there are sweet nectarine and other tropical fruit flavours on the light to medium-bodied frame. You can expect that wonderful sweet and sour, yin and yang tanginess that lingers on the finish and matches so well to food with some heat, like a spicy eggplant and ground veal dish. Good value. (VH)

Ontario

Vic tasted the following wines with Sue-Ann Staff, internationally-acclaimed winemaker now with 20 Bees. One of the newest wineries in Niagara, exclusively VQA, it is owned and operated by 19 well known local growers (plus one winemaker) who have come together to provide premium grapes to this new venture. These '05s were made before Sue-Ann came on board. Given the forecasts for an excellent '06 harvest and Sue-Anne's winemaking magic, winecurrent.com can't wait to taste them. No need to wait for these as they have good distribution in the LCBO now.

**** drink now
Niagara Vintners 20 Bees Baco Noir 2005
VQA Ontario (6452) $12.95

Dark plum and brooding in the glass, it shows good typicity. The intriguing nose exhibits aromas of spice, leather and tobacco while the flavour profile offers spiced cherry and plum, good zest with a hint of those Baco tarry notes in the background. It is all nicely balanced on a medium-bodied frame and well priced. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Niagara Vintners 20 Bees Chardonnay 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula (4705) $12.95

This - as have all 20 Bees' wines - is wisely sealed under screwcap to ensure freshness. There are pleasant tropical fruit aromas that form a lovely segue to this light to medium-bodied white. You will taste good tropical fruit, along with apples and pears plus a generous dollop of citrussy zing. There is more citrus on the medium-length finish suggesting a perfect pairing to seared scallops with a drizzle of lemon. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Niagara Vintners 20 Bees Late Harvest Vidal 2005
VQA Ontario $18.95 (18499) 375 mL

A stunning wine. It was picked at 34 Brix, a hair under the regulation for ice wine. This helps explain the generous 12.8% alcohol. The aromatic nose is honeyed and beguiling. This medium to full-bodied dazzler offers caramel, toffee, raisins with desiccated nectarine and peach. Great balance and a lengthy luxurious finish make this tasting a special experience. The price to quality ratio is tipped heavily in your favour. Sip on its own, well chilled, with your best friend. (VH)

Portugal

****1/2 drink now two glasses
Sogrape Vila Regia Reserva 2001
DOC Douro $8.05 (464388)

Rod and I were amazed at this; one of the most outstanding buys in General List! Hand-picked grapes, fermented and aged in new French oak hogsheads for 18 months, it was then filtered, but not fined. We found sediment in our bottle, you may have to decant, or strain before serving. A red blend, it is made from 4 of the best Port grapes. The wine offers copious amounts of deep, sweet, rich flavours - cassis, black plum and juicy black cherry. There are ripe and supple tannins, excellent balancing zest and a wonderful earthy tone throughout. Stock up, drink now to 2009. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

**** drink now
Château des Charmes St. David's Bench Vineyard Gamay Droit 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95

This label sports a newly propagated vinifera varietal, by owner Paul Bosc, as well as one of the new VQA sub-appellations. A glorious wine that offers deep earthy and bramble berry flavours that are complimented by spice and peppery notes. It has structure and longevity. The finish is lengthy and well balanced. Try with a game bird now to 2010. Order on-line www.chateaudescharmes.com at a corporate retail store or in fine restaurants. (VH)

New in Restaurants

****1/2 drink now
Lammershoek Zinfandel LBV Cape Vintage 2002
WO Coastal $18.50

This fortified (16.5%) Port-like red would be the perfect foil to chunks of aged cheddar, parmigan reggiano or any 'death by chocolate' dessert. It offers a glorious nose of cinnamon, fig and dark ripe berry fruit. The texture is creamy and full-bodied with robust flavours of spiced black plum and bramble berry infused with sweet cassis. It has a lengthy warm finish as well as generous acidity to give balance and take away from cloying. Order by the case of 12 via e-mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod 

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar