Winecurrent
November 17, 2018 Newsletter

Newsletter Highlights Include:

Fine Wine Tasting

The Vine AgencyThe Vine Agency once again invited winecurrent to attend a carefully curated collection of wines via the LCBO Consignment program with many presented that are not available in LCBO retail stores. Louise and Vic attended and you can read their reviews and purchase wine by the case (6s and 12s) to be delivered to your home, office or restaurant. There’s a listing of those wines found at the very end of the newsletter. Like dessert, we saved something sweet for last. 

  • Exceptional-value wine Exceptional Value!  – 11 wines, from a total of 102 wines in this newsletter that are, or will be available, meet strict quality-price guidelines. Only three are found in the following Vintages Release with eight found after the Vintages release under various categories. The wines range from $12.95 to $34.95 and are found throughout the newsletter identified via the value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here.
  • 95 and over – five wines earned 95 points and over: 2005 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé Brut earned 95 points @ $338.95 found under Champagne; 2010 Ségla earned 95 points @ $65.95 found under France: Red Wine; 2016 Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Silver Fox Block – Nedelko Vineyard’ Pinot Noir earned 95 points @ $34.95 found under New in Ontario Wineries; 2016 Cave Spring Cellars ‘CSV’ Riesling earned 96 points @ $29.75 found under New in Consignment Wines; 2016 Baker & Brain Pinot Noir earned 95 points @ $56.95 found under New in Consignment Wines.
  • Louise Loves – 2005 Dom Pérignon Brut Rosé earned 95 points at $338.95 found under Champagne; 2016 Palatine Hills ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Chardonnay earned 92 points at $24.95 found under Ontario: White Wine and 2016 J.J. Vincent Marie-Antoinette Pouilly-Fuissé earned 90 points at $37.95 found under France: White Wine and, of course, all her exceptional-value wines.
  • Vic Picks – 2016 Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Riesling earned 91 points @ $21.95 found under Ontario: White Wine; 2014 Michael David Winery ‘Earthquake’ Zinfandel earned 93 points @ $43.95 found under California: Red Wine; 2014 Allegrini ‘Palazzo Della Torre’ @ $24.95 found under Italy: Red Wine and, of course, all his exceptional-value wines.

Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed as well as online—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores across Ontario. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages section) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone the store before making a trip.

Vintages Release: November 24, 2018

Champagne

90drink or cellar
Boizel ‘Grand Vintage’ Champagne Brut 2007
AOC Champagne $94.95 (484071) 12.0% alcohol
Despite a difficult year, this family’s savoir-faire and long experience—they’ve been making champagne since 1834—was key in pulling a Vintage Champagne in 2007. The assemblage is 50% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir, 10% pinot meunier, patiently aged in oak casks and spent seven years on its lees. The nose is complex—leesy, crusty bread, roasted almond, apricot, licorice, white flower and flinty notes. An unctuous mousse charms the palate with flavours of ripe pear, biscuit, fresh citrus, almond and delicious mineral notes extended in the long, dry and crisp finish. Dare to pair with a main such as Pan-roasted scallops with hazelnut gremolata (Louise Boutin)

95drink or cellar
Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé Brut 2005
AOC Champagne $338.95 (91777) 12.5% alcohol
Add this to your bucket list—name is mystical, the bottle and label command attention and the pour is intriguing. It’s a mature, wild-salmon shaded blend of 60% chardonnay / 40% pinot noir offering unique aromas—fresh rose petal, pomegranate, ripe red plum, a hint of marshmallow and flinty minerality that captivate the nose. It hits the glass creating a rich, pinkish mousse that quickly disappears leaving microscopic-bead bubbles hardly perceivable until they tingle the tongue. A profusion of fine and aerial bubbles fill the palate with a delicate froth carrying delectable flavours—ripe stone fruit, crusty baguette, strawberry, tart dried cherry and persistent mineral notes exposing an exceptional and elegant balance of the two grapes. This is delectable on its own with enough structure, complexity and length to make an outstanding companion to langoustine or a red-tuna sashimi feast. (Louise Boutin)

89drink or cellar
Moët & Chandon Champagne Extra Brut ‘Grand Vintage’ 2009
AOC Champagne $97.95 (69831) 12.5% alcohol
This is an interesting blend of 59% pinot noir, 19% of which is red wine, 30% chardonnay and 11% pinot meunier with 5g/L of residual sugar. The pretty pinkish-coral colour is the backdrop to fine beads of bubbles slowly swimming to the top of the glass. Aromas of lees, bread crumbs, crunchy cherry and a wisp of cotton candy fill the air. A fine foam coats the palate carrying flavours of tart cherry, green apple a touch of nutmeg and mineral notes defining the dry lip-smacking medium-long finish. Enjoy on its own or with salted appetizers. (Louise Boutin)

Sparkling Wine

85drink now
Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Rosé Non-Vintage

New Zealand $22.95 (280172) 12.0% alcohol

This attractive pink-hued sparkler is fashioned from 20% hand-harvested pinot noir and 80% low-yielding chardonnay, fermented in the Charmat, a.k.a. Cuve Close, method. It hustles from the bottle with an energetic mousse and aromas of red berry fruit and spice with hints of brioche. It delivers spirited and lively flavours of citrus and red currant interwoven with sweeter and riper cherry on the lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

89drink now
Belcanto Di Bellussi Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene Superiore Non-Vintage

DOCG Valdobbiadene $18.95 (53215) 11.5% alcohol

This is crisp, clean and refreshing with notes of minerality and lemon acidity streaking across the palate preceded by a quiet nose of crisp green apple and minerality. There’s a solid line of acidity throughout with lime and pineapple peeking through on the finish. A lovely welcoming wine or serve with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Charles Baker ‘Picone Vineyard’ Riesling 2015
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Escarpment $37.20 (241182) 11.8% alcohol
This Niagara classic, produced under the CB label since 2005, showcases unmistakable petrol aromas leaving some room for tropical fruit, citrus and honeysuckle notes. It opens up beautifully on the palate with ripe Bosc pear, candied lemon rind, green apple flavours and a complement of salinity in the medium-long finish. This is medium bodied with depth and fleshiness. Pour with your favourite vegetarian curry. (Louise Boutin)

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Riesling 2016

VQA Short Hills Bench $24.95 (643361) 11.5% alcohol

This was sourced from some of their oldest, estate, riesling vines. Sharp mineral and petrol aromas introduce a gorgeous flow of spice- and tang-infused notes that streak across the palate with great élan adorned with ripe orchard fruit—Granny Smith apple, Bosc pear, yellow plum—and a lip-smacking, tang-laden, mouth-watering finish. This is medium weight, slightly off dry on the palate with good mouthfeel and plenty of pizzazz on the finish. Pour with chicken piccata, sushi or a deli platter of pate and cured meats with a baguette. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Palatine Hills ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara-on-the-lake $24.95 (577742) 14.5% alcohol
This offers a generous, interlaced cocktail of aromas—white flower, roasted almond, ripe mango, fresh celery, a hint of fennel and light smoky oak. 100% malolactic conversion and twelve month ageing in French oak with lees stirring result in an extra-creamy-textured wash of delicious flavours—apricots, apple butter and marzipan perfectly balanced with green apple tartness and mineral notes persisting into the long, dry, heart-warming finish. This is medium-full bodied, has excellent structure with well-integrated alcohol and shows finesse from first sip to finish. Pour now to 2020 with pan-seared scallops with a dollop of seasoned crème-fraîche. (Louise Boutin)

88drink now Oh Canada!
Tzafona Cellars ‘Cold Climate’ Riesling 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (445569) 12.0% alcohol
This kosher-certified, aromatic, cold-climate white can’t hide its identity—intense petrol aromas shading ripe pear, mature apple and mineral notes. It’s just on the cusp of off-dry with 15g/L of residual sugar and medium acidity, this flows on the palate with flavours of ripe orchard fruit, honey, a hint of ginger and an interesting saline note showing on the finish and aftertaste. Medium-bodied, pour now alongside quiche Lorraine. (Louise Boutin)

Ontario: Red Wine

89cellar Oh Canada!
Hidden Bench ‘Terroir Caché’ Unfiltered 2015
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment $44.95 13.0% alcohol
This organic-certified, unfiltered, deep-purple Meritage—36% cabernet franc, 34% merlot, 24% malbec, 6% cabernet sauvignon is aged in French oak, 25% new, for 20 months and has a complex nose—ripe dark fruit, green bell pepper, violet, mocha, tobacco, baking spice and graphite. The palate is flooded with a medium-full bodied, generous, high-tannin, cocktail of dark plum, black cherry, cassis, bitter chocolate and warm peppery flavours. It needs time for the flavours to further merge with the chewy tannins. Additional cellaring will make this a great red and much more approachable. Pour in 2021-2025. (Louise Boutin)

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Queylus ‘Tradition’ Pinot Noir 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (392738) 13.0% alcohol
This is not a gamy pinot, it boasts fresh aromas of pomegranate, red cherry, lovely rose petal, laurel and freshly cracked peppercorn. This is full of life on the palate with tart flavours—red cherry, cranberry and ripe raspberry wrapped into fine, yet firm, tannin supporting a fresh fruit and peppery, delicious finish. This is medium bodied with excellent structure and acidity; it will further evolve with additional cellaring. Pour now to 2022 with boeuf bourguignon. (Louise Boutin)

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Tzafona Cellars ‘Cold Climate’ Cabernet Sauvignon KP 2014

VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (493981) 13.0% alcohol

This well-balanced Cab is part of the lineup of certified Kosher for Passover wines produced by Tzafona Cellars. It's medium-red with a tinge of orange around the edges. It has a striking nose of green leaf, grape stems, mushrooms, and earth with notes of clove in the background. It's medium bodied with dry chalky tannin, cherry flavour and a lingering finish. (Dave Isaacs)

California: Red Wine

93drink or cellar
Caymus ‘Special Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Napa Valley $199.95 (711663) 14.0% alcohol

Very dark, almost opaque, aromas of raspberry jam, spice and wisps of blueberry fill the air and lead to an array of flavour bringing unbridled enjoyment. A full-bodied, generously textured stream of black raspberry and juicy, dark Bing cherry interwoven with dark chocolate, kirsch liqueur, elegance and charm coat the palate persisting through the lingering, balanced finish. Aerate/decant three hours for maximum enjoyment. (Vic Harradine)

93drink or cellar
Michael David Winery ‘Earthquake’ Zinfandel 2014

Lodi $43.95 (59717) 15.0% alcohol

Fruit for this explosive zin was sourced from vines planted in Lodi around the time of the 1906 San Francisco earthquake—it then spent 14 months in American oak before bottling. Aromas of piquant spice and briary berry abound. It erupts on the palate with a shower of medium-full bodied, generously textured savory herbs, peppery spice, oaky notes, sweet, juicy black cherry and hints of black licorice and espresso roast—absolutely delicious. This replays on the finish with good balance, structure and a boatload of charm. Good to go now, pour with pepper steak or rare-grilled hanger steak. (Vic Harradine)

94drink or cellar
Stag’s Leap ‘Artemis’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Napa Valley, California $84.95 (708982) 14.5% alcohol

This is rich, ripe and raring to go. Aromas of black currant and dark cherry interplay with hints of mint and savoury notes on the nose. It blankets the palate with a silky-smooth wash of briary berry and juicy black plum flavours along with cassis and kirsch liqueur. This showcases good balance, density and plenty of pizzazz. It’s lively throughout with excellent tang, good structure, purity of fruit and charm. Drinking well now after a two-hour decant, especially when paired with grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar
Francis Ford Coppola ‘Director’s Cut’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $42.95 (61002) 14.5% alcohol
Charred toast, dark berry fruit and cedar aromas herald a charming, flavour-filled surge of black currant, black juicy plum and kirsch liqueur blanketing the palate and mingling with wisps of black licorice and espresso roast. This is medium-plus weight and well textured with good balance, persistent purity of fruit and plenty of alluring charm. The finish is dry, flavourful and lengthy. It’s drinking well now and complements grilled-rare steak with Portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

93drink or cellar
Domaine Drouhin ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir 2015
Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley $49.95 (961284) 14.1% alcohol
Floral and dark cherry/berry fruit aromas abound on the nose of this gorgeous, Oregon pinot. Palate-coating flavours of ripe juicy black cherry and dark bramble berry intertwine with excellent acidity, purity of fruit and an abundance of charisma. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured throughout. It finishes balanced and beautiful with depth, complexity, excellent length and a mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour now after a two-hour aeration/decant with smoked duck breasts or roast turkey. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar
Elk Cove Pinot Noir 2013
Willamette Valley $36.95 (234534) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of grilled herbs, exotic spice and mineral notes open this medium bodied, nicely textured, delicious pinot. A tangy river of pie cherry, passionfruit and softer black plum envelop the palate interlaced with racy tang and acidity. It finishes dry and mouth-watering with persistent fruit flavour, smooth, polished tannin and plenty of pizzazz. Give this an hour or two aeration/decant and pour alongside chicken/duck pot pie or red wine braised beef shanks. Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

89drink or cellar
Columbia Crest ‘H3 Les Chevaux’ Red Blend 2014
Horse Heaven Hills, Columbia Valley $19.95 (287425) 14.5% alcohol
A rich lifted nose of sappy, ripe fruit, grilled herbs and exotic spice aromas introduce tang-infused stream of racy pie cherry and juicy black plum saturate the palate. It finishes with palate flavour replays on the lingering finish adorned with mocha and vanilla. This is mid-plus weight with good texture and a long, balanced and dry finish and aftertaste. It’s good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and pour with a grilled-rare flank steak with oven-roasted fries. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellar
Lone Birch Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Yakima Valley $19.95 (446971) 14.1% alcohol
Attractive aromas of dark berry fruit, mocha and pipe tobacco precede a persistent flow of teeth-staining flavour on the palate with milk chocolate, kirsch liqueur and cassis to the fore. This is medium-plus bodied with creamy-smooth mouthfeel and a supple tannin underpinning. The finish is lengthy, balanced, dry and lip-smacking good. Give this a go after three-hour aeration/decant with a hearty meat stew or lamb tagine with root vegetables. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar
Seven Falls Cellars Merlot 2014
Wahluke Slope, Columbia Valley $21.95 (420711) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark cherry/berry fruit and mixed spice aromas open this 100% merlot beauty. Mighty waves of dark cherry and black briary berry crash over the palate interwoven with bittersweet chocolate and espresso roast galore. It then infuses the finish and aftertaste with gorgeously balanced replays along with a smooth, ripe tannin underpinning. This is medium-full bodied with creamy smooth texture and is very good value. Pair with brisket of beef. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

87drink now
La Posta ‘Estela Armando’ Bonarda 2017
Mendoza $15.95 (261586) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of floral and earthy notes lead to persistent stream of palate- bathing flavours with pie cherry and spice mingling nicely with dark chocolate, sweet vanilla and wisps of tarry notes. This is medium-plus weight with good texture and a dry, medium-length finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside meat-laden pizza, lasagna or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar
Mendel Malbec 2015
Mendoza $27.95 (108225) 14.5% alcohol
This malbec showcases rich, sweet-tinged fruit, good acidity to balance and a mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Aromas of black plum, dark cherry and notions of mocha pave the way for medium-full bodied, nicely flavoured, palate fruit with ripe, almost jammy, mulberry and tangy passionfruit nicely juxtaposed throughout while intertwined with mixed spice and grilled herbs. Pour with grilled rib eye steak. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2015 SonVida ‘Reserve’ Malbec truly is a special ‘Reserve’ wine. Premium fruit was sourced from a premium zone—Altamira—from two special plots singled out by winemakers as making superb wine over the years with only tight clusters of the best malbec selected for fermentation in a newly built state-of-the-art small winery on the vineyard. It then matured beautifully, 24 months in French and American oak barrel.

94drink or cellar
SonVida ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2015

Altimira, Mendoza, Argentina $29.95 14.0% alcohol

This showcases complexity, succulent flavour, persistent purity of fruit, well-integrated oak, deft balance and satin-smooth texture throughout. Piquant spice aromas mingle with dark berry fruit and pencil shavings on the nose of this full-bodied, full-fruited malbec. It coats the palate with flavours of spice-laden, ripe dark Bing cherry, black currant and juicy tang. It finishes in a blaze of red crunchy fruit—currant and cherry—deftly balanced with the dark fruit of palate replays. (Vic Harradine)

88drink now
Terrazas De Los Andes ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2015

Mendoza $19.95 (29280) 14.0% alcohol

A lifted nose of floral notes, tar and charred toast aromas set the stage for a boisterous wash of dark fruit—cherry black currant and plum—joined by tangy red currant, piquant spice, mocha and savory herbs blanketing the palate infusing the lengthy aftertaste. It’s mid-full weight with interesting complexity and loads of tang. Pour with curried, lamb tajine. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar
Versado Malbec 2014
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $22.95 (317008) 14.5% alcohol
Inky black in the glass, this blossoms with lifted aromas of floral notes, grilled herbs and mixed spice. It’s rich and sumptuous on the palate with flavours of black currant and dark cherry with both melding nicely with wisps of aromatic bitters. It’s framed by racy, lip-smacking acidity and underpinned by firm tannin. This showcases deft balance, complexity, depth and is just simply delicious. The finish lingers, you shouldn’t, pick up a few bottles; the price-quality balance tips in your favour. Aerate/decant two hours to enhance your imbibing pleasure. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

90drink or cellar
Dandelion ‘Lioness of McLaren Vale’ Shiraz 2016

McLaren Vale, South Australia $21.95 (357475) 14.5% alcohol

Dark cherry/berry fruit and mixed spice aromas coalesce on the nose of this full bodied well-textured Aussie shiraz. It showers a rich flow of bramble berry, mulberry, peppery spice and sweet vanilla on the palate persisting from first drop to the balanced, delightful aftertaste. This is good to go now and on to 2026. It’s particularly tasty paired with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

87drink or cellar
Small Gully ‘Mr. Black’s Little Book’ Shiraz 2015

Barossa Valley $18.95 (287979) 15.0% alcohol

Appealing notes of herbs, spice, vanilla and black pepper pair with dark plum, blackberry and cassis aromas on the nose of this dry, medium-full bodied gem. A silky wash of well-ripened dark fruit flavours surge over the palate layered with anise, sweet vanilla and peppery notes. It’s well balanced with a lingering fruit-driven finish. Pair with sticky barbecued ribs. (Lisa Isabelle)

New Zealand: White Wine

93drink or cellar
Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough, South Island $26.95 (677450) 12.5% alcohol
There’s absolutely nothing shy or retiring about this sauvignon blanc. An explosion of aromas jump from the glass revealing grassy notes, citrus zest, gooseberry and canned peas followed by a tang-laden gusher of gooseberry jelly, lime zest, flinty minerality and a boatload of snappy tang and pizzazz. It’s medium-bodied with generous mouthfeel and an über-lengthy finish decorated with excellent acidity and wisps of pear and apple. Pour alongside olive-oil-dressed arugula under crumbled chèvre or a heap of mussels steamed in a cup of white wine… this white wine, if you wish. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc 2017
WO Groenekloof $17.95 (673913) 13.0% alcohol
Piquant spice, herbal notes and soft citrus aromas open this nicely paced white wine. It rolls over the palate with a tang-flavoured wash of palate-bathing ambrosia—peppery spice, lemon curd and Key lime pie robed in oodles of nerve, verve and lip-smacking charm. Medium bodied and nicely textured, palate flavour replay on the lingering, dry, balanced finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled calamari or sushi. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

89drink or cellar
Joseph Cattin Riesling 2015

AOC Alsace $15.95 (259788) 13.0% alcohol

Aromas of floral notes citrus and spice make way for a value-packed, lighter-styled Riesling that will certainly appeal to those looking for a crisp, refreshing white wine. Soft flavours of Key lime pie and lemongrass caress the palate infusing the dry, mouth-watering finish. Pour on its own as a delightful sipper or alongside pan-seared or grilled fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

• Winemaking in the Vincent family goes back to 1862. They own 40 hectares in southern-Burgundy, 25 of which are Pouilly-Fuissé. The 2016 J.J. Vincent Marie-Antoinette Pouilly-Fuissé featured below is one of their signature collection and a tribute to their grandmother.

90drink or cellar
J.J. Vincent ‘Marie-Antoinette’ Pouilly-Fuissé 2016
AOC Pouilly-Fuissé $37.95 (525113) 13.0% alcohol
This is pale-yellow hued and quite oaky on the first nose. A good swirl helps dig deeper to find complex aromas—ripe orchard fruit, freshly sliced bread, melted butter and mineral notes. A creamy-textured wash charms the palate with elegance and finesse offering flavours of apple butter, white peach, a slight almond bitterness and sweet vanilla perfectly balanced with tangy green apple and minerality. This is medium bodied with an extra-fine, tannin-like mouthfeel that will soften over the next eight years or so, yet is delicious now with a lemon butter cod or halibut filet. (Louise Boutin)

89drink or cellar
Château de Fontaine-Audon ‘Terroir Silex’ Sancerre 2016
AOC Sancerre $32.95 (745893) 12.5% alcohol
This slightly green-hued, water-white wine displays intense aromas—lime, green pineapple, thyme, fennel and flinty minerality. The palate is treated to a fresh, crisp, mouth-watering wash led by lime zest, green grape and a hint of white pepper flavour until the mineral character of silex terroir expresses itself in a delicious manner. This lively, medium-bodied white offers a citrus and mineral, medium-length finish and is perfect for a traditional goat cheese appetizer pairing. (Louise Boutin)

France: Red Wine

87drink or cellar
Jean-Pierre Moueix Bordeaux 2015
AOC Bordeaux $17.95 (516765) 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc—shows signs of evolution with its medium-garnet color. The nose offers aromas of green bell pepper followed by ripe blackberry, dark cherry and dry tobacco. The fruit flavours are replayed on the palate with a sustained tang and grippy tannin. This is dry, medium-bodied with a tart fruity and peppery finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant two hours and enjoy with gourmet juicy burgers. (Louise Boutin)

• The following wine is from Château Rauzan-Ségla, a 2nd growth wine. In 1855, the great red wine estates of the Gironde in Bordeaux, France were judged to be in five categories (referred to as ‘Crus’ or ‘Growths’ with originally only four wineries (now five, but that’s another story) in the first category, 12 in the second category (there have been alterations/splits and one wine jumping from this category to the one above). The following, Ségla 2010—along with others of similar status—is often referred to as a ‘second label’ or ‘second wine’ of one of these great premium wineries that made it into one of the exclusive groups—after the winemaker selects, in his opinion, the ideal barrels for the famed ‘Growth’ label—in this case, 2nd Growth, Château Rauzan-Ségla—the best of the rest was chosen for this particular wine – hence, ‘second label’. Some have a third and fourth label. This estate is owned by Chanel, who have gone to great lengths and invested scads of Euros to improve quality.

95drink or cellar   

Ségla 2010

AOC Margaux $65.95 (359810) 13.5% alcohol

Perfumed aromas of sweet ripe fruit and floral notes provide segue to a dense, intense red blend—approximately 2/3rds Cabernet Sauvignon, 1/3rd Merlot with a dash of Petit Verdot and a dot of Cabernet Franc. A stunning wash of sweet, ripe black currant, crème de cassis and vanilla with hints of mint and mocha coat the palate along with moderating tang. This full-bodied beauty has great sense of purpose, stunning purity, is deftly balanced and bursting with promise. The rich fruit flavour, balancing acidity and profound tannin underpinning all portend long life—pop corks 2025 to 2035. (Vic Harradine)

88drink now
Marchand-Tawse Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2015
AOC Bourgogne $32.95 (285601) 13.0% alcohol
The nose is classic—gamy and forest floor notes with red cherry and rose petal. The palate’s treated to a fresh wash of juicy cherry, pomegranate, cranberry and earthy notes framed in medium tannin trailing a mild licorice aftertaste in the medium-length finish. Aged 14 months in neutral French oak, no new and without fining or filtration, this is a versatile pinot with good acidity and will stand nicely alongside chicken cacciatore. (Louise Boutin)

89drink or cellar
Gabriel Meffre ‘Saint-Barthélémy’ Vacqueyras 2015
AOP Vacqueyras $24.95 (479691) 14.0% alcohol
This blend of predominantly grenache and syrah opens on a funky nose before leaving the stage to black plum, prune, mushroom and dry herbs. Dark fruit sweetness and velvety textured on the tip of the tongue, it quickly turns to a fleshy, warm, tart wash of spicy, crunchy cherry, blackberry a touch of charred herb and still-evolving tannin. Matured eight months in vats and six months in bottle, it’ll benefit from an additional five to eight years of cellaring. If poured now, aerate/decant three hours and pair with juicy red meat. (Louise Boutin)

88drink now
Famille Brunier ‘Télégramme’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $52.95 14.5% alcohol
This is from the iconic sixth-generation winemakers at Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. The blend—80% grenache, 10% syrah, 6% Mourvèdre, 4% cinsault—is hand-harvested from a mix of young and old vines, vinified and aged in vats for ten months and transferred to French oak foudres for an additional seven months. The result displays a pale-ruby bowl with a garnet rim and a predominantly dry, herbal nose—sage, thyme, marjoram with tart red cherry and blackberry peeking through. Warm, silky-textured juice floods the palate slowly vanishing to reveal flavours of fresh crunchy red cherry, raspberry, dry savoury herb, porcini mushroom and firm tannin. This is medium-full-bodied and is best enjoyed in its youth. Aerate/decant two hours and pour with slowly-braised pork roast with a medley of mushrooms. (Louise Boutin)

87drink or cellar
Domaine Lafage ‘Tessellae - Vieilles Vignes’ Carignan 2015

IGP Côtes Catalanes $18.95 (343509) 14.5% alcohol

This was sourced from 70-year-old vines of 100% indigenous carignan delivering loads of ripe black fruit aromas—freshly homemade black plum jam, blackberry, blueberry and a fresh whisper of licorice. The fruity palate is charming while the spicy pepper notes and grippy tannins make their presence known later to reveal this full-bodied red’s true structured and muscular personality. Aerate/decant three hours to enjoy now and on to 2024 with a juicy, rare-grilled prime rib. (Louise Boutin)

Italy: White Wine

90drink or cellar
Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio 2017
IGT Vignetti delle Dolomiti $19.95 (474742) 13.5% alcohol
Ripe pear, floral and lemon pie aromas precede gorgeous mouthfuls of blood orange, lemon curd and white grapefruit interwoven with pear and apple flavours. It’s good value for the money, medium weight with good mouthfeel, deft balance and plenty of flavour and tang—not all that common from this varietal. You can sip on its own or pour with roast chicken, roast pork or white pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

91drink or cellar
Fontanafredda ‘Ebbio’ Nebbiolo 2014
DOC Langhe $21.95 (397448) 13.5% alcohol
There’s quite good value in this nebbiolo. Earthy, red fruit and floral note aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of palate-bathing flavour of crunchy red fruit—raspberry, cranberry and passionfruit—interlaced and balanced with über-ripe bramble berry and mixed spice. The lengthy finish layers on still-evolving tannin and mouth-watering tang and acidity. This is mid-full bodied with generous mouthfeel, a long finish and plenty of racy pizzazz. Pour with pasta puttanesca or spaghetti Bolognese after a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

88drink or cellar
Balica Cafaggio ‘Single Estate’ Chianti Classico 2015
DOCG Chianti Classico $17.95 (421107) 13.0% alcohol Exotic spice and earthy aromas provide segue for a tang-infused line of red currant and sour cherry streaking across the palate with hints of fine-grained tannin and dollops of black juicy plum. This is medium weight with decent texture and a lean, mouth-watering, tang-laden demeanour. Look for more of the same on the finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside lasagna or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

92cellar
Pietranera Brunello Di Montalcino 2013
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $45.95 (189761) 14.0% alcohol
This is bursting with ripe, fruit flavour, racy tang and plenty of appeal. A bouquet of floral notes and cherry/berry aromas on the nose, it blankets the palate with strawberry, raspberry and red cherry flavour adorned with racy blood orange acidity and wisps of minerality. This is full bodied and firm with creamy-smooth mouthfeel. The finish is lengthy and lip-smacking good with replays of pie cherry and tang. Pour now after a two-hour aeration/decant and with careful cellaring on to +2030. (Vic Harradine) 

• When a corporation—in our world, a winery—provides information on a label, some is substantiated by a regulatory body and some is carefully worded by the marketing department (the latter usually found on the back label). In the case of the following 2013 Castello Di Ama ‘San Lorenzo - Gran Selezione’ Chianti Classico 2013, the ‘Gran Selezione’ is certainly worth noting, it’s regulated and is only applicable to ‘Chianti Classico’ wines… Read more.

92cellar
Castello Di Ama ‘San Lorenzo - Gran Selezione’ Chianti Classico 2013

DOCG Chianti Classico $55.95 (418897) 13.0% alcohol

Cedar, red cherry and exotic spice aromas pave the way for a taut and racy, tang-infused, tannin-laced gusher of pie cherry and piquant spice on the palate. The lengthy finish showers racy red fruit—currant and plum—with a solid underpinning of still-evolving tannin. Pop corks 2021 to 2027 for a patience-rewarding experience. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellar
Tenuta Sette Ponti ‘Crognolo’ 2015

IGT Toscana $33.95 (727636) 14.0% alcohol

Aromas of red and dark berry fruit swirl from the glass with notions of spice and herbs before the palate’s treated to a rich, fruit-driven flow of briary berry, juicy black Bing cherry and piquant/peppery spice blanketing the palate. This is medium-full bodied with firm texture and a finish and aftertaste displaying a sharp herbal bite along with drying tannins. Aerate/decant for three hours or pop corks 2019-2023. (Vic Harradine)

92drink or cellar
Allegrini ‘Palazzo Della Torre’ 2014

IGT Veronese $24.95 (672931) 13.5% alcohol

Toast/oaky aromas mingle with raisin and bright, evergreen needles on the nose before releasing a tangy line of red currant and cranberry flavour on the palate intertwined with soft, ripe black cherry and dried currant. This is medium-plus bodied with smooth texture, balance, complexity and structure with good purity of fruit and oodles of charm. It lingers luxuriously on the finish. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

86drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Quinta de Cabriz ‘Colheita Selecionada’ 2015
DOC Dão $13.95 (247973) 13.0% alcohol
This blend of alfrocherio, tinta roriz and touriga nacional offers notes of smoke, tobacco and spice behind a core of red fruit aromas. Dry, medium bodied with firm tannins, the palate showcases savoury notions of charred red pepper and herbs with ripe red cherry and dark plum flavour before finishing mid-length with a slight, sweet vanilla aftertaste. Enjoy this exceptional-value red with grilled burgers. (Lisa Isabelle)

Spain: Red Wine

90drink or cellar
Bodegas Balbás Crianza 2013
DO Ribera del Duero $21.95 (437673) 14.5% alcohol
Deep-ruby coloured, this tasty blend of 90% tempranillo and 10% cabernet sauvignon opens with an intense nose of blackberry, dark plum, chocolate-mint, spice and cedar. Dry, medium-full bodied with perceptible tannin, it delivers a nicely-textured mouthful of succulent dark fruit, blackberry compote, vanilla and spice flavours to be savoured through the lasting, warming finish. Pair with steak au poivre. (Lisa Isabelle)

91drink or cellar
Bodegas Corral ‘Don Jacobo’ Gran Reserva 2004
DOCa Rioja $39.95 (923748) 13.5% alcohol
Garnet-tinged ruby in colour, this tempranillo-dominant blend was aged two years in oak barrels and a further three years in bottle prior to release. Appealing cherry and plum aromas, layered with leather, vanilla, mint and cedar, appear vividly on the nose. The rich, savoury palate offers notions of bay leaf, baking spices and fig supported by red and dark cherry flavours which linger on the finish. Try this dry, medium-full bodied, well-structured red with grilled leg of lamb. (Lisa Isabelle)

90drink or cellar
Bodegas Altanza ‘Hacienda Valvarés’ 2015
DOCa Rioja $20.95 (423509) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of strawberry and blackberry meld with chocolate-covered cherry, black pepper, an earthy note and a hint of rose petal on the nose of this dry, mid-weight crianza. Smooth and well-balanced with fine-grained tannin, ripe red fruit flavours, sprinkled with dark chocolate, savoury herbs and a balsamic note, coat the nicely-textured palate and extend into the medium-long, mouth-watering finish. Serve with grilled chorizo sausages or a cheese and charcuterie platter. (Lisa Isabelle)

86drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Monasterio de las Viñas ‘San José de Aguarón’ Reserva 2012

DO Cariñena $14.95 (166579) 13.5% alcohol

This was hand harvested from vines with an average age of 40 years—70% garnacha/20% tempranillo/10% carignan—showing off its garnacha with racy tang and acidity throughout and a drying finish and aftertaste. A tight, tart wash of sour cherry and red currant streaks over the palate persisting through the aftertaste with great élan. A great food wine, this pours well with lasagna or spaghetti and meat balls in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: December 8. 2018

• The following méthode traditionelle, vintage-dated, 2013 Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ is named for family matriarch Catherine Smith—Henry of Pelham’s wife. It was hand harvested, bunch selected from 100% chardonnay, whole-cluster pressed, 20% barrel fermented, maturing more than four years in bottle on its lees before disgorgement.

93drink or cellar Oh Canada!

Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ 2013

VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (315200) 12.5% alcohol

As always, one of the top traditional-method, vintage-dated sparkling wines on the market, regardless of country of origin. Aromas of leesy notes, buttered toast and flinty minerality make way for a profusion of fine-bead bubbles that endlessly wind their way to the top of your glass. This has complexity, purity of fruit, good tension, is balanced on a pin with a painter’s palette of lively flavour—a surge of racy lemon and lime tang adorned with white nectarine, nutty and mineral notes dazzle the palate infusing the lingering finish. This is classy, elegant and wired for sipping on its own for two or with food when entertaining. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Non-Vintage Taittinger ‘Nocturne’ Champagne is dressed for a special occasion with the purple-hued bottle all glitter and glam. However, the contents reflect studious blending with the fruit—40% chardonnay and a 60% mix of pinot noir and pinot meunier—carefully chosen from over thirty different villages within Champagne and from multi, past vintages. It’s also off-dry from an elevated dosage of 17.5 g/l of sugar cane. It’s at the very lower end of ‘Sec’ or Dry in Champagne regulations, but your taste buds may alert you it’s somewhat off-dry, but still far from sweet or cloying.

91drink now
Taittinger ‘Nocturne’ Champagne Non-Vintage
Champagne, France $69.95 (618389) 12.5% alcohol
Pale-yellow hued in the glass, fine-bead bubbles carry delicate aromas of nectarine, brioche and lemon. It bathes the palate with round, creamy-smooth flavours of ripe Mirabelle plum, honeyed melon and wisps of lemon pie filling. There’s tang on the finish balancing the off-dry ripe flavours and leaves you enjoying the yin and yang of the sweet and tang. Pour on its own or with foie gras or creamy cheese like Stilton, Brie or Camembert. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: January 5, 2019

• The following 2017 Curvos Loureiro was sourced from 100% loureiro (low ray roe) fruit, the most widely planted variety in the Vinho Verde region of northern Portugal.

88drink now Exceptional Value!
Curvos Loureiro 2017
DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal $12.95 (471284)
Lifted aromas of floral notes, melon and citrus open this lively, fully flavoured gem. It dazzles the palate with a burst of lemon curd and racy grapefruit tang. It’s light on its feet with a mouth-watering, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Give this a go with pan-seared or grilled seafood, sushi or ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: January 19, 2019

88drink now Exceptional Value!
Gérard Bertrand ‘Réserve Spéciale’ Viognier 2016
IGT Pays d’Oc, France $14.95 (147975) 13.5% alcohol
Honeyed stone fruit and orange blossom aromas on the nose, this envelops the palate with a medium-full bodied, creamy-smooth wash of palate-coating flavour—ripe Bosc pear, lemon pie filling and Mirabelle plum. It finishes with palate replays and wisps soft acidity. This pairs well with lightly spiced Asian dishes like pad Thai or Chicken Chow Mein. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release, January, 2019

91drink now
La Guardiense ‘Janare Cru Pietralata’ Greco 2016
DOP Sannio Greco, Campania, Italy $22.95 13.5% alcohol
This offers good value and was sourced from 100% greco fruit, a grape indigenous to the area. This leaps from the glass with vibrant aromas of citrus, mineral and orchard fruit—pear, apple and nectarine. There’s plenty of razzle/dazzle on the palate with a crisp refreshing surge of palate-tingling flavour from lemon curd, grilled pineapple and white grapefruit tang. It softens on the delicious, mouth-watering finish adding lemon pie filling notes galore. Pour on its own or with appetizers like grilled and breaded calamari or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: Spring, 2019

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard – Foxcroft Block’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake $22.95 12.8% alcohol
This is very good value. Baking spice, cedar and mineral note aromas waft from this delectable chardonnay before treating the palate to mouthfuls of medium weight, well-textured ripe pear, apple and lemon zest. From twist top to last drop this showcases alluring aromas, deft balance, persistent purity of fruit and lengthy mouth-watering, mineral-infused finish. Excellent when tasted, even better with a bit more time in bottle. Pour with chicken, pork or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

90drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
2027 Cellars ‘Falls Vineyard’ Riesling 2017
VQA Vinemount Ridge $18.95 10.0% alcohol
Aromas of lemon-lime and wisps of minerality herald a medley of off-dry flavours on the palate with lime cordial interwoven with yellow plum and wisps of grilled, sugared grapefruit. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and lengthy, refreshing finish and aftertaste. It’s a treat to sip on its own, and shows off its versatility at the table paired with baked ham, steamed lobster, pan-seared scallops or firm fish, pad Thai or Gruyere-stuffed French toast. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBD, 2019

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir ‘Speck Family Reserve’ 2017
VQA Short Hills Bench $34.95 (657874) 13.5% alcohol
This bright-ruby, Burgundy-styled pinot was hand-harvested from 35-year-old, estate vines. It enchants with aromas of cranberry juice, raspberry, cherry, fresh rose petal and a wisp of laurel. On the palate, crunchy ripe red cherry mingles with tart cranberry, cassis and oak spices developing into a comforting peppery note in the medium-long finish. Fermented in stainless-steel tank before a ten-month maturation in European oak, 30% new, the result is deliciously fresh and elegant with good structure and character typical of beautifully crafted pinot noir. This has cellaring potential and is also delicious now with wild-mushroom risotto. (Louise Boutin)

• The following 2016 Redstone Pinot Noir Rosé’ Sparkling Wine is vintage dated and crafted Méthode Tradionnelle from 100% Pinot Noir having four-day skin contact then kept on its lees for 12 months before disgorging.

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Redstone Pinot Noir Sparkling Rosé 2016
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.95 12.0% alcohol
This deep-pink-hued rosé offers aromas of strawberry, mineral notes and citrus. A frothy mousse when poured, the fine-bead bubbles wind to the top of the glass in seemingly endless lines. Flavours of ruby red grapefruit, blood orange and citrus pith bathe the palate infusing the lip-smacking dry finish, Look for ripe pear on the aftertaste. This sips well on its own and pours particularly well with pan-seared salmon, steamed mussels Provençal or paella. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Tawse ‘Redfoot Vineyard’ Gamay Noir was sourced from hand-picked, single-vineyard fruit matured eight months in French oak barrels before bottling.

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Redfoot Vineyard’ Gamay Noir 2016
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $28.95 12.5% alcohol
Dark cherry, spice, cedar and savory herb aromas abound on the nose of this balanced, lively and tangy gamay noir. It bathes the palate with tart cranberry and red plum on entry then ripe bramble berry and blueberry on the back palate and finish. It’s quite firm, flavourful and pleasant sipping from twist top to final drop. It also pairs well with a mixed deli platter or a variety of cheese and baguette board. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2014 ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc was sourced from single-vineyard, organically grown grapes. Tawse has sourced cabernet franc grapes from Heather Laundry’s vineyard for over a decade. This matured 18 months in French oak barrels.

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2014
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $34.95 13.5% alcohol
Rich aromas of rosewood, peppery spice and blackberry fruit precede a medium-plus, nicely textured wash of red cherry, red plum and tangy acidity underpinned by a firm framework of ripe tannin. The finish adds replays of palate flavours along with flinty minerality. This is drinking well now, though enhanced by a three-hour aeration/decant and served with an oiled and grilled, marbled and well-seasoned, slab of beef. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

• The following 2016 Tawse ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. This is a blend from hand-harvested fruit from select vineyards across the Niagara wine region matured 14 months in French oak barrels before bottling and release.

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 (130989) 13.0% alcohol
A lightly-hued red in the glass, it offers delicate aromas of piquant spice, cedar and raspberry on the nose. It streaks over the palate with tang, tart and acidity borne of crunchy red fruit flavours—currant, pie cherry and passionfruit—along with wisps of sharp spice. I enjoyed the tart acidity and am confident that with a pasta in tomato sauce, red pizza or lasagne pairing, most others will, too. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

The following three wines from Calamus Estate Winery can be purchased by the case for daily home, office or restaurant delivery online at Calamus Estate Winery or by phone +1 905-562-9303 or toll free 1-888-225-9866 or for personal pick up by the bottle or case on your next stop at the winery 3100 Glen Road, Jordan, ON L0R 1S0. Here’s a map.

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Calamus Estate Winery Meritage 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 13.0% alcohol
This offers very good value. Black cherry/berry fruit, cedar and grilled herb aromas dominate the nose of this brawny red blend. It blankets the palate with a full-bore river of delicious flavour with sweet, ripe cherry and bramble berry to the fore. It’s full bodied and fully textured with swashbuckling finish and aftertaste of cassis, excellent tang and acidity and an underpinning of supple tannin. Aerate/decant for three-hours pouring with a thick slab of grilled and well-seasoned, prime cut of beef. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Calamus Estate Winery ‘Balls Falls Red’ 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 13.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of rich, dark berry fruit, dark chocolate and cassis abound on the nose of this deftly balanced, gorgeously flavoured red. It dishes up mouthfuls of sweet-tinged fruit—dark cherry and ripe bramble berry interwoven with excellent tang and acidity and mixed spice. It’s medium bodied with good mouthfeel and a lengthy finish oozing with flavour, tangy acidity and plenty of charm. Pour with steak, burgers or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Calamus Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13.0% alcohol
Sexy aromas of ripe berry fruit, white pepper and exotic spice billow from this lovely cab. It rolls over the palate with a firm tannin underpinning and plenty of ripe fruit and tangy acidity. Palate flavours of racy pie cherry and red currant find good balance mingling with riper, darker black currant and mulberry plus savory herbs. It’s medium-plus bodied with textured mouthfeel and finish that layers on tang and tannin. Patience will be rewarded at a very good price; pour after a three-hour aeration/decant or twist tops in 2020 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following by the case for daily office, home or restaurant delivery direct by toll-free phone 1-888-399-1183, from the winery using this link - Rosehall Run - or pick it up from the cellar door on your next visit to the winery 1243 Greer Rd, Wellington, Ontario K0K 3L0 in Prince Edward County – it’s an easy two-hour drive, or less, from the GTA or Ottawa via the 401 - Here’s a map.

• The following 2017 Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Indigo’ Sparkling Wine was sourced from Rosehall Run estate vineyards with a blend of 64% chardonnay musqué and 36% muscat ottonel and the bottle closed by easily removed, crown cap. The artwork on the label was done by Alex Simon, a Tasting Room Associate at the winery and former Guelph U. Visual Arts student.

90drink now Oh Canada!
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Indigo’ Sparkling Wine 2017
VQA Ontario $24.95 10.5% alcohol
This vintage-dated, Charmat method, sparkling wine delivers aromas of honey, citrus, floral notes and exotic spice then mouthfuls of palate flavour with grilled pineapple, honeydew melon and lemon chiffon pie dominant. This is crisp and refreshing, balanced and bountiful with fine-bead bubbles tingling on the palate from flip top to last drop. It finishes dry and delicious, lip-smacking good. Pour when welcoming guests, keep pouring with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

• The following two wines represent co-owner/winemaker Dan Sullivan’s newest mission, vision and venture – Small Lots. Dan is on a quest to explore interesting varietals from well-matched terroirs. The following 2016 Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Silver Fox Block – Nedelko Vineyard’ Pinot Noir began when Dan was harvesting merlot from this Niagara vineyard in 1966. The pinot noir for this wine was planted ten-years ago. He employed minimalist winemaking intervention letting the fruit and wild yeasts do their thing. This is the very first vineyard-designated wine from these vines and one couldn’t imagine a better first effort. It was indigenous-yeast fermented, matured 19 months primarily in 2nd- and 3rd-fill French oak, less than 20% new, with minimal sulphites added. Only 270 cases were produced.

95drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Silver Fox Block – Nedelko Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 12.5% alcohol
This opens with an alluring nose of exotic spice, red berry fruit and pipe tobacco aromas. It envelops the palate with a stunning array of complex flavours—tangy, ripe, bramble berry fruit robed in piquant spices and black currant jelly with racy pie cherry appearing on the back palate. It’s medium-bodied with good mouthfeel and showcases dazzling fruit flavour, excellent acidity and deft balance. It’s stylish and charming while the monumentally long, balanced and beautiful finish adds to its allure. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

• The following ‘Small Lots’ 2016 Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Edgerock Vineyard’ Petit Verdot was sourced from a rare south-facing vineyard in Niagara in an ideal, sun-blessed vintage that easily ripened the usually, stubbornly late-ripening, petit verdot, Winemaker Dan Sullivan has captured the raison d’être of this grape in a bottle. Kudos! A mere 270 cases were produced.

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Edgerock Vineyard’ Petit Verdot 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 13.0% alcohol
This ‘Small Lots’ petit verdot offers aromas of wood smoke, cassis and dark, briary-berry fruit. It captures the palate with swashbuckling flavours of tang-laden, black, juicy cherry and black plum intertwined with racy red currant and notions of passionfruit infused with piquant spice. It’s full bodied and fully textured with good balance, structure and depth. It finishes with lots of tang and oomph, lengthy and luscious. Let this breathe a couple of hours before pouring via an aeration/decant. This deserves hearty fare—osso buco, boeuf Bourguignon or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘The Certain Ratio’ is a blend of grapes and terroir. The fruit was sourced from select vineyards from both Niagara and The County. The grape blend is 33% merlot/28% cabernet franc/26% cabernet sauvignon/13% petit verdot. It was aged in new and used, French and American, large and small barrels, 500L and 228L, respectively.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘The Certain Ratio’ Red Blend 2016
VQA Ontario $34.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of charred cedar, dark berry fruit and floral notes waft easily from this red blend—33% merlot/28% cabernet franc/26% cabernet sauvignon/13% petit verdot—followed by a gusher of ripe, luscious, teeth-staining fruit flavour coating the palate—black currant, raspberry and black Bing cherry—interlaced with racy tang and supple tannin. It’s medium-plus bodied with generous texture and a firm structure. Palate-flavours replay on the finish and aftertaste, Aerate/decant two-hours before service and pour with grilled, well-seasoned, medium-rare striploin. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wine by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario online from Southbrook Vineyards or phone toll free: 1 888 581-1581 or pick up a bottle or case directly from the winery at 581 Niagara Stone Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON. Here’s a map.

• The following 2017 Southbrook Vineyards ‘Small Lot – Natural Wine’ ‘Skin Fermented White’ Vidal is an excellent example of the wave of so-called ‘orange wine’, now referred to as ‘skin fermented white. This is hand picked, foot trodden and then indigenous-yeast fermented followed by a malolactic conversion—converting malic acid to lactic acid—with grape juice, skins, seeds and stems present over 30 days. After gentle pressing it was naturally chilled outdoors, allowed to settle and bottled without filter or fining—hence the cloudy appearance—or any additives. There was no sulphur added.

90drink now Oh Canada!
Southbrook Vineyards ‘Small Lot – Natural Wine’ ‘Skin Fermented White’ Vidal 2017
VQA Ontario $29.95 10.5% alcohol
This is ProCert certified—organic and biodynamic, suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Citrus and floral aromas on the nose, pave the way to a light-on-its-feet, tart wash of orange peel with citrus pith and notions of the Italian, bitter liqueur, ‘Aperol’ on the palate and persisting through the drying finish and aftertaste. Give this 100% vidal a go with arugula salad dressed with verjus. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2017 Southbrook Vineyards ‘heather’s home vineyard’ organic Riesling was sourced from 100%, clone 21, riesling vines, organically farmed. Fruit was stem and skin soaked then gently bladder pressed and cold settled before being fermented to 8 g/L residual sugar which tastes, to my palate, quite dry, especially on the finish and aftertaste.

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Southbrook Vineyards ‘heather’s home vineyard’ organic Riesling 2017
VQA Vinemount Ridge $22.95 11.2% alcohol
This is certified organic and suitable for vegans and vegetarians. There are aromas of pit fruit, citrus and mineral notes on the nose of this tang-laden riesling. It streaks over the palate with a laser-like, electrifying line of stony minerality, racy lime juice and green pear. This is medium weight with oodles of nerve and verve from twist top to last drop. It’s dry on the finish and pairs exceptionally well with sushi or freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Southbrook Vineyards ‘Organic - Triomphe’ Chardonnay 2016

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13.0% alcohol

Certified organic by ProCert, this is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Exotic spice, wisps of smoky oak and sweet vanilla aromas provide segue to a racy river of lime-drizzled crab apple jelly and notions of Mirabelle plum caressing the palate infusing the lengthy, mouth-watering finish. This is medium-weight with creamy-smooth mouthfeel and plenty of tang throughout. Pour with pan-seared seafood, roast chicken or breaded pork cutlets. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Southbrook Vineyards ‘Wild Ferment’ Chardonnay is the first bottling to not contain Southbrook estate-grown fruit. It was sourced in the home vineyard of the noted Saunders family in Beamsville. 100% chardonnay was barrel fermented with wild yeast in French oak. After maturation and a scrupulous selection of the best barrels, only those were used in the bottling of this wine.

94drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Southbrook Vineyards ‘Wild Ferment’ Chardonnay 2017

VQA Niagara Peninsula $40.00 13.0% alcohol

This is ProCert certified—organic and biodynamic, suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Alluring aromas of baking spice, vanilla and toasty oak mingle with wisps of yellow plum and green pear on the nose of this medium-full bodied stunning chardonnay. Sweet-tinged entry flavours of yellow peach and plum meld nicely with back-palate flavours of green apple and lemon curd. The finish and aftertaste tingle with ripe-fruit flavour and racy tang decorated with deft balance and charm. Delicious now, short to medium-term cellaring will enhance even this fine wine. Pour alongside roast fowl with all the fixings, steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter or firm, pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2017 Southbrook Vineyards ‘laundry vineyard’ organic Gamay was 40% crushed and destemmed while the balance was 60% whole-cluster fermented with indigenous yeasts and underwent natural malolactic conversion completing 25 days of fermentation on skins then gently pressed and barrel matured for 7 months in small, oak, 225 L barriques.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Southbrook Vineyards ‘laundry vineyard’ organic Gamay 2017
VQA Vinemount Ridge $24.95 13.0% alcohol
This is ProCert certified—organic and biodynamic, suitable for vegans and vegetarians. The lifted nose of red and black berry fruit, mocha and wisps of smoke waft easily from the glass of this medium bodied, nicely textured and deftly balanced gamay. It envelops the palate with a delicious wash of dark Bing cherry and red currant flavours decorated with excellent acidity, good stucture and exquisite balance. Purity of palate-flavoured fruit persists through the long, mineral-infused finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Southbrook Vineyards ‘laundry vineyard’ organic Pinot Noir was meticulously fashioned not with contemporary practices, but with time-proven, traditional methods: after hand-harvesting and hand-sorting, 40% whole-cluster fruit was put in the bottom of an oak vat then 60% de-stemmed grapes were gravity fed over top. After an indigenous yeast ferment—gravity forced open the berries—and natural malolactic fermentation, it was pressed and settled then spent 17 months maturing in French barrel.

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Southbrook Vineyards ‘laundry vineyard’ organic Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.00 13.0% alcohol
Certified organic by ProCert, this is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Earthy notes, exotic spice and red raspberry aromas provide segue to a medium-bodied, satin-smooth, balanced and beautiful wash of palate-bathing flavours with the sweet and tang of a cranberry/cherry/bramble berry fruit cocktail adorned with spice, charred toast, complexity and delicate elegance. The long racy finish is dry, crisp and refreshing with palate-flavour replays. This is stylish and graceful throughout. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wines from Tawse Winery and Redstone can be purchased by the case for home, office or restaurant delivery online at Tawse Winery, by email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. by phone +1 (905) 562 9500 or for pick up by the bottle or case directly at the winery 3955 Cherry Ave, Vineland ON. Here’s a map.

• The following 2016 Tawse ‘Quarry Road Vineyard, Rosé’ Sparkling Wine is vintage dated and crafted Méthode Tradionnelle from single-vineyard, 100% Pinot Noir and kept on its lees for 12 months before disgorging.

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Quarry Road Vineyard, Rosé’ Sparkling Wine 2016
VQA Vinemount Ridge $29.95 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of red berry fruit, flinty minerality and cherry provide segue to a lighter-hued, bubbly wash of palate-bathing ripe red fruit—cherry, plum and raspberry—well textured with good mouthfeel. The dry, mouth-watering finish layers on good acidity and notions of chalky minerality. This is made in the traditional method and layers on citrus notes and chalky minerality on the lingering aftertaste. Pour alongside sushi, ceviche or bouillabaisse. (Vic Harradine)

92drink now Oh Canada!
Tawse Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.95 200 mL 10.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of ripe strawberry and cherry clafoutie drift from this nicely paced, far from cloying, icewine. It coats the palate with a viscous flow of spice-infused nectar of the gods delivered with sweet flavours of red raspberry jelly and hints of cherry cordial along with enough acidity on the finish to be sipped on its own or poured with a fruit flan or chocolate dessert. Drink up now with a good friend on a special occasion, it’s delicious. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Redstone Pinot Noir Rosé’ Sparkling Wine is vintage dated and crafted Méthode Tradionnelle from 100% Pinot Noir having four-day skin contact and kept on its lees for 12 months before disgorging.

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Redstone Pinot Noir Sparkling Rosé 2016
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.95 12.0% alcohol
This deep-pink-hued rosé offers aromas of strawberry, mineral notes and citrus. A frothy mousse when poured, the fine-bead bubbles wind to the top of the glass in seemingly endless lines. Flavours of ruby red grapefruit, blood orange and citrus pith bathe the palate infusing the lip-smacking dry finish and aftertaste. This sips well on its own and pours particularly well with pan-seared salmon, steamed mussels Provençal or paella. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2012 Redstone Meritage is a red blend—60% merlot from Redstone Vineyard/20% cabernet sauvignon from Redstone Vineyard/20% cabernet franc from Van Bers Vineyard—that matured 18 months in French oak barrels.

92drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Redstone Meritage 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $45.95 14.0% alcohol
This red Bordeaux blend showcases persistent purity of fruit, good balance and gorgeous flavour. It opens with lively aromas of exotic spice, black currant and blueberry. This bathes the palate with a gusher of tang-infused, crunchy red fruit—pie cherry and passionfruit—intertwined with ripe briary berry, mocha and wisps of soft, ripe tannin. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy smooth texture, balanced on a pin and has a lengthy, dry, mouth-watering finish. Pour alongside crisp pork bellies and grilled root veggies after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2015 Redstone ‘Redstone Vineyard’ Cabernet – Merlot is a tangy red blend of 68% cabernet sauvignon and 32% merlot, both from Redstone Vineyard. It matured 18 months in French oak barrels.

89drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Redstone ‘Redfoot Vineyard’ Cabernet - Merlot 2015
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $28.95 13.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of floral notes, spice and dark cherry set the table for a spice-laden, tang-infused stream of crunchy red fruit—sour cherry and red currant—streaking across the palate with wild abandon, red fruit acidity and traces of savory herbs and minerality. The finish lingers with palate replays and a firm structure of still-evolving tannin. Best to pop corks 2021 and beyond or, if impatient, aerate/decant three-hours and pour with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment Wine

• The following is a carefully curated collection of fine wines via the LCBOs Consignment program with many not available at LCBO retail stores. Order and purchase arrangements are handled through Account Manager, Lauren Hayes-Van den Weghe at the following coordinates:
• Order the following wines by the case—some 6 bottles, others 12—by contacting Lauren Hayes-Van den Weghe by email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or by phone 613 240 3667 for restaurant, home or office delivery via The Vine Agency.

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Champagne Collet ‘Art Deco’ Brut Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $66.95 12.5% alcohol
Matured for at least four years in their chalk cellars, this blend—40% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir and 20% pinot meunier is sourced from Grand Cru and Premier Cru villages vineyards including Aÿ where Collet was founded in 1921. Delicate rosary-like bubbles dance in the glass releasing beautiful aromas of yeast, bread crumbs, green apple, candied pineapple, white flower and chalky minerality. A fine foam expands in the mouth and with it, aromas of crusty bread, citrus rind, fennel and mineral notes delight the palate. The rich, yet crisp, dry, long finish invites you back for another sip. Enjoy with salted nuts or coquille Saint-Jacques. (Louise Boutin)

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Domaine Corinne et Jean-Pierre Grossot ‘Les Fourneaux’ Chablis 1er Cru 2015
AOC Chablis $52.95 13.0% alcohol
This sustainably farmed, classic Chablis is sourced from 15-year-old vines. Fermented and matured mainly on lees in stainless steel tanks, French barriques are also used for the slow fermentation both, alcoholic and malolactic, of 25% of the juice. The nose is treated to fresh and crisp aromas—white grapefruit, apple, floral notes, Golden delicious apple and seashell minerality. It greets the palate with a sharp stream of fresh citrus and green apple flavours moving mid-way to a creamier texture unveiling lactic notes, pink grapefruit sweetness and a mouth-watering saline note in the delectable, lingering finish. Pair with your favourite seafood dish. (Louise Boutin)

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Château Pesquié ‘Les Terrasses’ Blanc 2016
Vin de France $21.95 12.5% alcohol
The 70% viognier, 15% roussanne, 15% clairette in this white blend makes itself very discrete on the nose with delicate aromas of white grapefruit, lime zest and white flower notes. A partial malolactic conversion adds roundness and texture to this medium-bodied, dry white as it delivers flavours of citrus rind, white peach, fresh apricot and a good dose of wet-rock minerality. This is a very nice white to enjoy at the apéro. (Louise Boutin)

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Château Pesquié ‘Les Terrasses’ Rouge 2016
AOC Côtes de Ventoux $21.95 (652313) 14.0% alcohol
This beautiful blend of 60% grenache / 40% syrah proposes notes of ripe plum, candied cherry and kirsch liqueur aromas toned down with a nice smoky whiff on the nose. There is plenty of freshness and balance on the palate with delicious flavours of crunchy red cherry, red and black plum, blackberry and a touch of licorice wrapped in soft tannin muffling the unexpected high octane. This is a versatile, medium-full bodied red with a fruity and slightly peppery persistent finish. Pour with mixed grill and roasted vegetables. (Louise Boutin)

96drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Cave Spring Cellars ‘CSV’ Riesling 2016
VQA Beamsville Bench $29.75
This is stunning wine sourced from the estate’s oldest, lowest-yielding riesling vines with roots anchored deep in the limestone-rich soil of the Beamsville Bench. Aromas of exotic spice, citrus and flinty minerality provide entry to an explosion of palate-tingling flavour with pineapple, blood orange and lemon curd to the fore joined by riveting tang and acidity along with mineral notes on the lingering, crisp, refreshing finish and aftertaste—this was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Dolomite’ Riesling 2016
VQA Niagara Escarpment $17.75 11.5% alcohol
This is for riesling-lovers, connisseurs and folks, like me and many of you, who love a great glass of wine at an exceptional price. This gets attention on the nose with aromas of piquant spice and flinty/mineral notes intertwined with grapefruit zest. It bathes the palate with a medium-weight, satin-smooth flow of spice, stone fruit and citrus. It finishes clean and lip-smacking good with plenty of pizzazz. Pour with Alsatian onion tart. (Vic Harradine)

92drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Dolomite’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Niagara Escarpment $17.75 11.5% alcohol
This was fermented in 65% stainless steel tank and 35% well-seasoned French oak barriques with all undergoing partial malolactic conversion and matured 4 months sur lie. It showcases ripe fruit, excellent balancing acidity, oodles of charm and a lengthy finish and aftertaste. Aromas of toasty/yeasty notes interweave with orchard fruit and spice. A medium-bodied, nicely textured river of balanced and beautiful flavours—ripe red apple, pear and blood orange tang—envelop the palate persisting through the lengthy mouth-watering finish joined by minerality. Pour with pan-seared freshwater fish, steamed mussels or supermarket rotiserie roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

91drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Dolomite’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.75 12.5% alcohol
This is quite good value and an interesting blend of fruit—94% pinot noir/6 % gamay—and VQA terroir—92% Beamsville Bench/6% Creek Shores/2% St. Davids Bench. It wafts from the glass with red berry fruit, piquant spice and earthy aromas before treating the palate to a medium-weight, creamy-smooth wash of tangy fruit—red currant, black cherry and dark plum—interlaced with wood smoke, excellent acidity and underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. It finishes with tasty replays and pours well with the usual suspects—smoked duck breasts, roast fowl or pork, spiced paté or charcuterie board. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2017 Cave Spring Cellars ‘Dolomite’ Cabernet Franc is a blend of grapes—88% cabernet franc and 12% cabernet sauvignon that underwent a 14-day maceration then gently pressed and matured 9 months in predominantly older barrique—French, Hungarian and American. There’s also a 4% dollop of 2014 cabernet franc appassimento in here.

90drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Dolomite’ Cabernet Franc 2017
VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.75 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of cherry/berry fruit mingling with grilled savory herbs, gamy notes and peppery spice abound. It coats the palate with a well-flavoured, well-textured surge of black currant and cassis intertwined with baking spice, savory bits and a polished tannin underpinning. The finish lingers, balanced and beautiful, sporting ripe dark berry fruit and excellent tang. It’s good to go now after a two-hour aeration decant and poured with a thick, well-seasoned steak or rich stew like boeuf Bourgignon. (Vic Harradine)

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Valdibella ‘Munir Catarratto’ Bianco 2017
IGT Sicily $19.95 12.0% alcohol
This organic aromatic Sicilian indigenous white gives up aromas that tease the senses— ripe pear, juicy pineapple, grapefruit, honeysuckle and vanilla. Round and ample on the palate it opens the door to a tangy wash of citrus and tropical-fruit flavours coated with loads of minerality and a nice bitter-almond and unpredictable smoky finish. This is medium-bodied, an excellent value and will pair perfectly with fish on the grill or smoked salmon appetizers. (Louise Boutin)

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Valdibella ‘Kerasos’ Nero D’Avola 2016
IGT Sicily $20.95 13.5% alcohol
This sustainably farmed, cooperative-produced, 100% Nero d’Avola is matured half and half in wood barrels and stainless steel tanks for eight months. The nose shows intense gamy notes shielding ripe red cherry, red plum, raspberry and pencil-shaving aromas. Medium-bodied with soft tannin, it bathes the palate with flavours of tangy red cherry and blackberry, evolving to kirsch liquor, balsamic notes and black peppercorn in the finish and aftertaste. Give this a go with a fresh tomato and black olive pizza. (Louise Boutin)

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La Guardiense ‘Janare Cru Pietralata’ Greco 2016
DOP Sannio Greco, Campania, Italy $22.95 13.5% alcohol
This offers good value and was sourced from 100% greco fruit, a grape indigenous to the area. This leaps from the glass with vibrant aromas of citrus, mineral and orchard fruit—pear, apple and nectarine. There’s plenty of razzle/dazzle on the palate with a crisp refreshing surge of palate-tingling flavour from lemon curd, grilled pineapple and white grapefruit tang. It softens on the delicious, mouth-watering finish adding lemon pie filling notes galore. Pour on its own or with appetizers like grilled and breaded calamari or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

• The highest vineyard in the Apennine hills of Emilia-Romagna, Villa Papiano’s history goes back to the 15th century and the Medici family but the current vineyard was re-launched in 2001 under the careful eye of Francesco Bordini PhD in œnology. Intensive work aiming at rebuilding the 1960 old-vine terraces set the new beginning of this burgeoning, small vineyard. Blessed with poor soil where sangiovese thrives, the 2017 Villa Pappiano ‘Le Papesse’ featured below has consistently received accolades since 2014 and truly represents the expression of this traditional terroir.

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Villa Pappiano ‘Le Papesse’ 2017
DOC Romagna Sangiovese Superiore $29.95 13.5% alcohol
This single-vineyard, organically-farmed blend—95% sangiovese/5% balsamina, aka alicante, is aged in concrete vats for six months preserving the freshness of the bright fruit—ripe red cherry, plum, blackberry, raspberry and a suggestion of pine aroma teases the imagination. A juicy stream of flavours—crunchy red cherry, pomegranate, plum with more evolved balsamic notes plus salinity, in the otherwise fruity, medium-long finish, enchants the palate. A perfect balance of structure and softness calling for a traditional pairing— spaghetti Bolognese. Pour now to 2025. (Louise Boutin)

• Pâcina is a 10th century convent on a family-owned property bordering the Chianti Classico area in the Siena region. Biodiversity, sustainable farming and non-interventionist practices are some of the guiding principles put forward by 6th generation winemaker, Giovanna Tiezzi, in the wine production but also in other crops — olives, chick peas, lentils amongst others. The wines featured below—2012 Pâcina di Giovanna Tiezze Pâcina and 2015 Pâcina di Giovanna Tiezze La Malena—are two examples of the signature style where passion and savoir-faire are also found in the bottle.

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Pâcina di Giovanna ‘Tiezze Pâcina’ 2012
IGT Toscana $48.95 14.5% alcohol
This is a blend of 95% sangiovese and 5% ciliegiolo, a grape believed to be one of the sangiovese’s progenitors, offers a captivating nose—smoky ripe cherry, balsamic reduction, dry tobacco and savoury herb replayed on the palate with richness and perfect balance. Patiently matured in French oak for 14 months with an additional 12 months of refining in bottle, this full-bodied food wine boasts medium-high acidity and grippy, yet fine tannin. This has at least ten years of cellaring potential but can be enjoyed now with a slowly simmered beef and wild mushroom ragoût. Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Louise Boutin)

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Pâcina di Giovanna ‘Tiezze La Malena’ 2015
IGT Toscana $56.95 14.0% alcohol
Only 2000 bottles of this organic 50% syrah and 50% ciliegiolo blend are produced most years. Fermented in concrete vats to preserve fruit quality, it matured 15 months in 225L Allier oak barrels and another six months in bottle. The remarkable smokiness combined with ripe black plum, prune and forest floor aromas, is a delight for the nose. The enjoyment continues on the palate with a generous flow of fresh blackberry, tart dry cherry, dry prune, mocha and balsamic notes in the endless, delicious, finish and aftertaste. This robust full-bodied Italian red will further evolve with five to ten years of cellaring but is excellent now with a rare, well-seasoned prime-rib roast. Aerate/decant two to three hours before pouring. (Louise Boutin)

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Baker & Brain Pinot Noir 2016
Central Coast, California $56.95 13.9% alcohol
There were only 150 cases of this gorgeous pinot produced. It showcases persistent purity of fruit, complexity, deft balance and plenty of grace and style. Aromas of red berry fruit, piquant spice and toasty oak waft from this medium-bodied, silky-smooth textured, fabulous pinot. It bathes the palate with a line of bracing acidity borne on a delightful stream of tart red currant and crunchy pie cherry decorated with savory herbs and mocha interwoven with a supple tannin underpinning and framed by crisp, refreshing, lip-smacking tang persisting through the long, dry finish. (Vic Harradine)

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La Guardiense ‘Janare Cru Pietralata’ Greco 2016
DOP Sannio Greco, Campania, Italy $22.95 13.5% alcohol
This offers good value and was sourced from 100% greco fruit, a grape indigenous to the area. This leaps from the glass with vibrant aromas of citrus, mineral and orchard fruit—pear, apple and nectarine. There’s plenty of razzle/dazzle on the palate with a crisp refreshing surge of palate-tingling flavour from lemon curd, grilled pineapple and white grapefruit tang. It softens on the delicious, mouth-watering finish adding lemon pie filling notes galore. Pour on its own or with appetizers like grilled and breaded calamari or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

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McManis Family Vineyards Viognier 2017
River Junction, California $20.95 13.5% alcohol
This was sourced from estate-grown viognier, fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks, it saw no oak. Aromas of peach, apricot and honeyed notes provide segue to a medium-plus bodied, well-textured wash of pleasing palate flavours with ripe tropical fruit—honeydew melon, pineapple and mango—intertwined with balancing acidity from Meyer lemon and hints of mandarin orange. This is well balanced with persistent purity of fruit and just plain, lip-smacking delicious at an excellent price. (Vic Harradine)

Restaurants/Hotels Only 

• The following 2027 wines from The Vine Agency are available only to Restaurants and Hotels with a valid liqour license.

92drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard – Foxcroft Block’ Riesling 2017
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 10.0% alcohol
A rich, luscious nose of lime and honeydew melon aromas precede a medium-bodied, nicely textured stream of stunning flavour—Key lime, apple, pear and stony minerality on the palate framed by juicy tang. It’s vibrant and lively on the finish with crisp and refreshing flavours of white grapefruit and persistent, tangy Key lime. There’s plenty of ripe pear and apple on the palate while the finish is dry and mouth-watering. This sips well on its own and pairs extremely well with fish, seafood, poultry or pork especially when in a cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)

• The following single-vineyard, 2017 2027 Cellars ‘Edgerock Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was hand harvested, cold soaked, wild-yeast fermented and matured in ‘bespoke’ French oak barrels, 40% new.

94drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
2027 Cellars ‘Edgerock Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $22.95 13.0% alcohol
This has been bottled only recently, but it’s exquisite now and will improve with short- to medium-term cellaring. Red berry fruit and piquant spice billow from the nose of this satin-smooth, well-textured pinot. It’s balanced almost perfectly with juxtaposition of black currant and dark cherry fruit flavours with the racy tang and acidity—perfect for matching with food. The price point for a wine of this off-the-charts quality swings wildly in your favour and allows pours by the glass. (Vic Harradine)

• The following single-vineyard 2017 2027 Cellars ‘Stonebridge Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a new offering from 2027 winemaker extraordinaire, Kevin Panagapka. It was sourced from hand-picked, hand-pressed, 100% chardonnay then 100% barrel fermented and matured 14 months in French oak barrel, 30% new. Purchase in cases of 6.

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2027 Cellars ‘Stonebridge Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.95 13.0% alcohol
Piquant baking spice aromas of cloves and ginger mingle with toasty notes on the nose of this medium-plus weight, value-laden, generously textured chardonnay. Palate flavours—green apple, peach, ripe pear and citrus—persist through the lengthy finish and aftertaste. It’s good to go now, better in a couple of months, pairing exceptionally well with roast chicken or pork, chicken salads or pot pies—lobster or chicken. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2014 2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard – Foxcroft Block’ ‘Natur’ Sparkling Wine is Méthode Traditionnelle, single vineyard, 100% Chardonnay with zero dosage, no malolactic conversion and having rested 36 months on its lees before disgorgement.

95drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard – Foxcroft Block’ ‘Natur’ Sparkling Wine 2014
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.14 12.0% alcohol
This offers baking brioche, and wisps of vanilla and spice on the nose and a smorgasbord of fine-bead bubbles and barely off-dry, yet refreshing flavour on the palate—lemon citrus, juicy apple and ripe pear interwoven with flinty mineral notes on the back palate along with replays on the crisp, lip-smacking finish. Kevin Panagapka’s vineyard/fruit-selection and winemaking skills truly shine in this stunning sparkling wine. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Louise, Lisa, Dave