August 26, 2018 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights include:
- Exceptional-value wine
– from a total of 67 wines in this newsletter—7 of 48 wines in this release and 6 of 19 wines following—that are available now at LCBO retail or Ontario wineries meet strict quality-price guidelines. They’re all found in the following Vintages Release. These wines range from $8.95 to $18.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here. - 95 and over – no wine scored 95 points and over.
- Vic Picks – 2015 Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Indian Wells’ Merlot earned 92 points at $26.95 found under Washington State: Red Wine; 2016 Concha Y Toro ‘Marqués de Casa Concha’ Syrah earned 92 points at $21.95 found under Chile: Red Wine; 2015 Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett earned 92 points at $25.95 and, of course, all his reviews of exceptional-value wines.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed as well as online—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone the store before making a trip.
September 1, 2018 Vintages Release
Fortified Wine: Port
92
Quinta Do Portal ‘LBV’ Port 2011
DOP Porto $32.95 (473041) 20.5% alcohol
Sourced from three top-drawer Port grapes—35% touriga nacional, 35% tinta roriz, 30%
touriga franca—this delicious Late Bottled Vintage Port, aka LBV Port, reveals structure, balance and purity of fruit. Aromas of black currant, fig and baking spice provide segue to a full-bodied, fully textured stream of cassis, kirsch liqueur juxtaposed with red currant and excellent tang coating the palate infusing the long finish. Pour with chunks of dark chocolate or chocolate dessert as an after-dinner treat. (Vic Harradine)
Champagne
91
Moutard Père & Fils ‘Rosé de Cuvaison’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $52.95 (340091) 12.0% alcohol
Lifted, alluring aromas of strawberry, mineral and orange marmalade abound, It streaks over the palate with great élan—pie cherry tang, lemon curd and freshly picked strawberry flavour—and skates persistently through the lingering, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour with sushi, ceviche or freshly shucked oysters under a couple of dots of tabasco and a squirt of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
89
Chandon ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine
California $32.95 (100693) 13.0% alcohol
This classy party starter—it’s made from pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes and in the same manner as Champagne—delivers enough oomph to pair with hors d’oeuvres and has ample charm to be sipped on its own. Leesy, earthy aromas introduce a profusion of fine-streamed bubbles laced with freshly picked strawberry and spice-infused tangy red grapefruit flavour. The lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste is crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)
89
Foss Marai ‘Roös’ Brut Spumante Rosé
IGT Veneto $19.95 (435610) 11.5% alcohol
This is value-packed, delicate and delicious with a crisp, refreshing spray of glorious bubbles and balanced flavours from cork pop to last drop. Red cherry, cranberry and pomegranate robed in excellent acidity and flecks of spice interlace with ruby red grapefruit throughout. Pour with sushi and zucchini tempura. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
88 
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Four Feathers’ 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (341586) 12.7% alcohol
Delicate aromas of ripe pineapple, floral notes and soft spice introduce a sweet-tinged wash of ripe apple, peach and pear followed by a racy streak of tang with white grapefruit and wisps of mandarin orange to the fore. This is nicely balanced with lots of pizzazz. It’s medium-weight with texture, good focus and a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with grilled or skillet-seared seafood. (Vic Harradine)
89
Henry of Pelham Chardonnay ‘Speck Family Reserve’ 2016
VQA Short Hills Bench $29.95 (616466) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of baking spice, toasty oak and flinty mineral notes abound on this well-textured, medium-full bodied, cool-climate chardonnay. It blankets the palate with piquant spice, lemon zest, apple and oaky notes galore. It finishes with wonderful citrussy tang. Expect this to mature gracefully in bottle over the next two years gaining in balance, unity and melding of what are now stand-alone flavours, much enhancing its charm and elegance. Pop corks 2020 to 2026. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Rosé Wine
88
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (172643) 12.0% alcohol
This salmon-pink hued blend—85% pinot noir/9% pinot gris/3% gamay/3% cabernet franc—presents delicate aromas of floral notes, spice and strawberry. Medium bodied with good texture, it dishes up a tang-laced river of strawberry/rhubarb flavour adorned with ruby red grapefruit and wisps of cranberry cordial. It really shines with ceviche, freshly shucked oysters or pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
93
13th Street Cabernet/Merlot 2016
VQA Creek Shores $19.95 (56598) 13.5% alcohol
A blend of 55% cabernet sauvignon/45% merlot, this is attractively priced. It’s still in its youth, as indicated by the purple edges on the otherwise opaque black plum colour and the perceptible, almost fully integrated tannins. The nose is wonderfully complex with notes of tobacco, strawberry jam, toasted walnuts and nutmeg aromas. It’s full bodied on the palate with juicy tang and flavours of blueberry, cherry, and spice. Keep in the cellar until 2024 or enjoy now with a medium-rare, grilled steak. (Dave Isaacs)
Okanagan Valley: Red Wine
90
Burrowing Owl Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Okanagan Valley $39.95 (556613) 14.0% alcohol
Red berry fruit, savory herbs and mineral note aromas abound on this well-paced, creamy-smooth pinot. Tangy flavour washes over the palate driven by a wave of racy pie cherry and ripe black currant flavour adorned with herbs and notions of mixed spice. It’s medium bodied with great balance, good structure and a lingering, tang-infused, mouth-watering finish. Pour with smoked duck breasts glazed with peel marmalade. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
91
Cannonball Chardonnay 2016
Sonoma County $24.95 (311563) 13.7% alcohol
This puts forward very appetizing aromas of ripe pear, vanilla, mild oak and a fresh tropical twist of pineapple and banana notes. The palate is treated to a rich mouthfeel and flavours of red apple, vanilla and poached pear lifted by persistent tangy pineapple defining the delightful finish. This medium-full bodied beauty inspires a roasted chicken and grilled-pineapple pairing. (Louise Boutin)
91
Ryder Chardonnay 2016
Central Coast $17.95 (458638) 13.5% alcohol
Baking spice and toasty notes on the nose, this dishes up a nicely balanced river of ripe apple, caramel and sweet vanilla interwoven with racy lemon and notions of pineapple. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and fairly lengthy, crisp refreshing finish. Pour with clay-baked chicken or pork roast. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
88
Ironstone Petite Sirah 2016
Lodi $17.95 (361915) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of milk chocolate and spice provide segue for a sweet-tinged, palate-coating stream of red cherry and vanilla mingling with milk chocolate throughout. This is medium weight with good texture and a sweet-infused finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
91
Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Napa Valley $39.95 (73817) 13.5% alcohol
This unique red blend—85% cabernet sauvignon, 9% petit verdot, 3% malbec, 2% petite sirah, 1% malbec—spent 12 months in French and American oak. This offers up aromas of sandalwood, dark berry fruit and mocha. It blankets the palate with a full-bodied wash of black currant and black plum intertwined with mint, dark bittersweet chocolate and good tangy acidity. It’s balanced on the lengthy finish and underpinned with soft, ripe tannin providing structure and interest. (Vic Harradine)
Oregon: Red Wine
• The owner/winemaker for the following 2015 Elouan Pinot Noir is Joseph Wagner, a 5th generation California winemaker who, at 19, began the iconic, single-vineyard pinot noir winery, Belle Glos, and also Meiomi that’s now owned by Constellation.
90
Elouan Pinot Noir 2015
Oregon $29.95 (420760) 13.7% alcohol
Smoky notes mingle with mixed field berry aromas and exotic spice on the nose of this full-bodied, full-textured, fully fruited pinot. An intense, complex stream of concentrated flavours envelop the palate with black currant jam intertwined with ripe strawberry and dark bittersweet chocolate and hints of sweet vanilla capturing all the attention. It finishes with replays, lengthy and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)
Washington State: Red Wine
92
Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Indian Wells’ Merlot 2015
Columbia Valley $26.95 (408864) 14.5% alcohol
This merlot-dominant red is a beauty—it’s juicy and lively throughout with good balance, structure and plenty of flavour. Aromas of mixed spice, vanilla and dark berry fruit are followed by a chocolate-infused stream of black currant and juicy black cherry interwoven with savory herbs and sweet vanilla blanketing the palate. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and lively, lip-smacking finish. Pour with beef fajitas or simple meatloaf. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
90
Zuccardi ‘Serie A’ Malbec 2016
Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina $16.95 (167619) 13.5% alcohol
This is partially aged in French oak barrels demonstrated by the slight smoky note aromas present on the nose. It’s a young wine with hints of green leaves and stemmy bits on the nose and relatively aggressive tannins on the palate. Peel back the tannins and you’ll discover enticing flavours of tart raspberry, spice, and thyme and a long tangy, herb-like finish. This’ll keep in the cellar to at least 2022. If you want to enjoy today, pair with a medium-rare, grilled pepper steak following a three-hour aeration/decant. (Dave Isaacs)
Chile: Red Wine
92
Concha Y Toro ‘Marqués de Casa Concha’ Syrah 2016
DO Buin, Maipo Valley $21.95 (19042) 14.0% alcohol
Potent aromas of earthy notes, balsamic and dark berry fruit aromas are clarion call for a luscious and fruit-laden flow of palate-coating flavour—black cherry and tangy black currant interwoven with tarry notes, dark coffee and black licorice. This is very well priced, full bodied and fully textured with a lingering finish of palate replays joined by excellent tang on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
91
Primus Carmenère 2016
Apalta, Colchagua Valley $19.95 (439356) 14.0% alcohol
This provides very good value, balance, velvety mouthfeel and a lengthy, delectable finish and aftertaste. Spice, savory herbs and red berry fruit on the nose, it unleashes a concentrated gusher of kirsch liqueur, piquant spice and bramble berry jam juxtaposed with pie cherry and racy tang on the palate as well as infusing the finish and lengthy aftertaste. It’s medium weight with good texture and persistent purity of fruit throughout. Pour with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
90
Santa Ema ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Maipo Valley $18.95 (485557) 13.5% alcohol
Grilled savory herbs and sharp spice aromas introduce a laser-like torrent of spice-laden flavour with sour cherry, racy cranberry and passionfruit streaking across the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and a drying aftertaste accompanied by still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant for three hours pouring with meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
92
Sister’s Run ‘Calvary Hill’ Shiraz 2016
Lyndoch, Barossa, South Australia $19.95 (222018) 14.5% alcohol
A quiet nose of savory herbs and field berry fruit on this value-laden gem precedes fruit-laden mouthfuls of blueberry, red and black cherry framed by juicy tang and intertwined with notions of dark bittersweet chocolate and espresso roast. This is full bodied and quite smooth on the palate with supple tannin infusing the monumentally long and gorgeously flavoured finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant an hour or so pouring with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
91
Yalumba ‘The Strapper – GSM’ 2015
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (295873) 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—grenache/syrah/mourvèdre—dishes up good structure, deft balance and lip-smacking flavour at a very good price. Savory herb aromas are first up on the nose followed by dark berry fruit and mocha. It blankets the palate with a nicely textured, smooth-as-silk river of bramble berry jam and juicy black cherry framed by vibrant, tangy, mouth-watering acidity and underpinned by supple tannin. The luscious, lingering finish is lip-smacking good. Aerate/decant a couple of hours and pour with a thick slab of grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
90
Forest ‘The Doctors’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (317842) 9.5% alcohol
This is a light-on-its-feet sauvignon blanc that’s highly flavoured throughout. Aromas of piquant spice and racy citrus jump from the glass preceding a linear, tang-laden stream of lime, white grapefruit and lemongrass streaking across the palate like a laser beam. It finishes with palate replays, mouth-watering, crisp, clean and refreshing. Give it a go with fish tacos. (Vic Harradine)
90
Invivo ‘Graham Norton’s Own’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (560284) 13.0% alcohol
Grassy, mineral and citrus on the nose, palate flavours include savoury herbs, piquant spice, gooseberry jelly and lemon pie filling. This showcases intense, tangy acidity, medium weight, good texture and a lengthy dry, crisp finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside prawn ceviche or mussels steamed in white wine and garlic. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: White Wine
• Fruit for the following 2016 Bellingham ‘Homestead Series The Orchards’ Chenin Blanc was hand-picked from 25-year-old, dry-farmed, bush vines, whole-bunch pressed and cold settled, fermented by indigenous yeast and barrel fermented in 2nd- and 3rd-fill French oak barrel.
90
Bellingham ‘Homestead Series The Orchards’ Chenin Blanc 2016
WO Paarl $15.95 (484055) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of honey, tropical fruit and buttered toast provide segue for a fairly bold river of peel marmalade, honey-drizzled lime and nutty notes blanketing the palate with oodles of tang, nerve and verve. It’s medium-plus weight with good mouthfeel and dry, racy, lingering finish and aftertaste. Pours well alongside pan-seared fish or grilled prawns. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
89
Gustave Lorentz ‘Réserve’ Gewürztraminer 2016
AOC Alsace $22.95 (408195) 13.5% alcohol
There are highly perfumed rosewater, floral and exotic spice aromas galore on this off-dry gem. It blankets the palate with a delightful sweet and tang personality delivered on a wash of sweet-tinged pit fruit and grilled pineapple juxtaposed with tang-laden lemon curd flavour. This pairs exceptionally well with a marmalade-glazed, baked ham dotted with cloves. (Vic Harradine)
92
Domaine les Vieux Murs Pouilly-Fuissé 2016
AOC Pouilly-Fuissé $33.95 (241117) 13.4% alcohol
Ripe apple and toasty note aromas introduce this medium-plus bodied, well-textured chardonnay. It’s smooth and delicious on the palate showcasing flavours of baked apple and racy lemon zest along with baking spice and wisps of vanilla and mineral notes. The finish is crisp and refreshing, clean and mouth-watering good. (Vic Harradine)
90
Château de Tracy ‘Mademoiselle de T’ Pouilly-Fumé 2016
AOP Pouilly-Fumé $27.95 (106773) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of grassy notes, piquant spice and floral notes open this tang-laden sauvignon blanc. Lemon curd and racy lime zest ride a laser-like steam of bracing acidity from first to last drop across the palate accompanied by chalky texture on the finish and aftertaste. This is mid weight with a mineral-laced, lip-smacking, dry aftertaste. Pour with white pizza dressed with olive-oiled arugula. (Vic Harradine)
France: Rosé Wine
91
La Cadiérenne ‘Cuvée Grande Tradition’ Bandol Rosé 2017
AOC Bandol $22.95 (119453) 14.0% alcohol
A highly perfumed nose of strawberry, raspberry and savory herb aromas open the door to gorgeous mouthfuls of pie cherry and black currant interwoven with spice and minerality. This is medium bodied with good texture and lively finish of tang and racy, red berry fruit flavour. Pour with pasta Bolognese or meat-lovers pizza. (Vic Harradine)
90
Lavau Tavel Rosé 2107
AOC Tavel $18.95 (556175) 13.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of strawberry, piquant spice and floral notes mingle on the nose of this 50% grenache noir/45% cinsault/5% syrah blend. It blankets the palate with tang-infused flavours of red raspberry and red currant persisting through the lengthy finish and aftertaste. This shows good weight and plenty of texture along with balance and charm. Versatile at the table, pour with a charcuterie board, blue-veined cheese or pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)
89
Château La Négly ‘La Natice’ 2017
AOP Languedoc $24.95 (492199) 13.5% alcohol
Strawberry, red currant and spice aromas in this mourvèdre/syrah/cinsault/grenache red blend lead the way to a tang-infused, shimmering, palate-wash of delicate red fruit—currant, cherry and plum—racing over the palate framed in tart tang and bracing acidity. This is light-medium bodied with a tang-laden finish and pours well on its own or with freshly shucked oysters dotted with tabasco sauce and a generous squeeze of fresh lemon, sushi or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
90
Château Carpena 2010
AOC Côtes de Bourg $18.95 (466599) 14.0% alcohol
This is a great wine to test your palate’s reaction to an eight-year-old Bordeaux red at an exceptional price, and… you didn’t have to cellar it. There’s spice, black licorice and dark berry fruit aromas on the nose. The balanced palate flavours showcase a medium-plus bodied, nicely textured stream of black plum, black cherry and red currant intertwined with earthy notes and Asian spice. It finishes with replays and juicy acidity. Serve alongside grilled beef or grilled vegetable kebabs. (Vic Harradine)
91
Château Larose-Trintaudon Cru Bourgeois 2009
AOC Haut-Médoc $26.95 (297945) 13.7% alcohol
This Bordeaux red blend—60% cabernet sauvignon/40% merlot—is from vines with an average age of 28 years and is smooth as silk from cork pop to last drop. Aromas of pipe tobacco and gamy notes flourish on the nose. The palate showcases fully ripened fruit flavours with black currant and dark cherry mingling with peppery spice and wisps of tannin and mineral notes. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and a lengthy dry finish and aftertaste. This is classy, almost elegant, and full of charm. Aerate a half hour before serving with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
90
Jean-Claude Boisset ‘Les Ursulines’ Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2016
AOC Bourgogne $24.95 (408310) 12.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, forest floor and wisps of charred toast aromas proliferate on the nose of this light-medium bodied, Burgundian pinot. It bathes the palate with persistent purity of crunchy red fruit—currant and passionfruit—intertwined with tangy acidity and very soft, ripe tannin. With replays of palate flavours persisting through the back palate and mouth-watering aftertaste, this is balanced, structured and tasty. (Vic Harradine)
89
Gérard Bertrand ‘Fitou’ Grenache/Carignan 2015
AOP Fitou $16.95 (403683) 13.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance in this tips well in your favour, pick up a few; it’s smooth and mellow throughout with well-paced, well-balanced flavours and juicy tang. Lifted aromas of raspberry, piquant spice and baked prunes unleash a torrent of palate-bathing flavour with bramble berry and blueberry interweaving with crunchy tang and peppery spice. This is medium bodied with spice-infused, red and dark fruit on the finish. (Vic Harradine)
89
Jeff Carrel ‘Les Darons’ 2015
AOP Languedoc $16.95 (448464) 13.5% alcohol
This unoaked, southern-Rhône red blend—75% grenache/20% syrah/5% carignan—was sourced from vines with an average age of forty years old. It leaps from the glass with perfumed floral and spicy aromas of red and black berry fruit then blankets the palate with a medium-weight, nicely textured gusher of crunchy red fruit—currant and cherry—adorned with excellent tang and a long finish and aftertaste. Pour with roast chicken and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)
86
Château Le Grand Retour Plan de Dieu 2016
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages – Plan de Dieu $15.95 (224592) 14.5% alcohol
This entry-level grenache/mourvèdre/syrah blend offers aromas of cherry, raspberry, savory herbs and freshly cracked, black pepper aromas on the nose. The first sip is round and mellow on the palate until joined by peppery, tart juicy cherry flavours and young tannins. It’s a medium-bodied red that may need a couple of years to fully reveal its intriguing personality or you can aerate/decant a few hours before pouring a glass while digging into a gourmand charcuterie board. (Louise Boutin)
90
Château Pesquié ‘Terrasses’ 2015
AOC Ventoux $19.95 (652313) 14.0% alcohol
This is well priced, well paced and well… delicious. Exotic spice, wood smoke and red and black cherry/berry fruit aromas waft easily from this medium-bodied, well-textured red blend—60% grenache/40% syrah. A creamy-smooth river of delectable dark fruit—cherry, currant and plum—bathe the palate framed by tangy acidity, underpinned by soft, ripe tannin. Give it a go with burgers, steak, pizza or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
93
Domaine Chante ‘Cigale’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015
AOP Châteauneuf-du-Pape $51.95 (194993) 15.0% alcohol
This is structured, balanced and full of delicious flavour; my highest compliment… it was awfully tough to spit. Spirited aromas of grilled savory herbs, Asian and baking spice mingle with dark berry fruit on the nose. A rich, sumptuous stream of flavour blankets the palate with cassis, kirsch liqueur and dark Bing cherry to the fore. This is full bodied with excellent mouthfeel and a firm underpinning of ripe tannin fully revealing itself on the creamy-smooth finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving now, or drink over the next decade. (Vic Harradine)
Germany: White Wine
• The ‘Grosse Lage’ designation in the following 2015 Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett is a regulated, elite rating for hand-harvested wine with site-specific attributes, cellaring potential and residual sweetness.
92
Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 2015
Prädikatswein, VDP Grosse Lage $25.95 (282343) 10.0% alcohol
Lime-drizzled pit fruit aromas precede off-dry, sweet and tang flavours on the palate with lemon curd and lime cordial nicely paired with ripe white nectarine, notions of honey and grilled pineapple. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it finishes balanced and refreshing. Pour now and on to 2028 with a spicy Asian dish. (Vic Harradine)
88
Louis Guntrum Nierstein Bergkirche Riesling Kabinett 2015
Prädikatswein $20.95 (160671) 13.0% alcohol
Petrol and citrus aromas precede a juicy, line of passionfruit, lemon tang and notions of grapefruit skipping across the palate infusing the crisp, refreshing finish. This is lighter-styled and uncomplicated yet offers good tang throughout. Pour with pan-seared fish, mussels steamed in white wine or pan-fried, breaded calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
• The following 2012 Villa Raiano Taurasi was sourced from 100% aglianico grapes, stainless-steel fermented, maturing in seasoned oak barrel 24 months then 12 additional months in bottle before release.
91
Villa Raiano Taurasi 2012
DOCG Campania $39.95 (344234) 13.5% alcohol
This offers aromas of peppery spice, dark chocolate and cured meat notes intertwined with berry fruit. The highly structured palate flavours include bramble berry and ripe juicy black currant melding with balsamic notes, tangy acidity and ripe tannin. It finishes with palate replays on the lingering, dry finish and aftertaste. Drink now and over the next decade after a three-hour aeration/decant—it’ll improve with careful cellaring. Serve with hearty meat stews like osso buco. (Vic Harradine)
89
Antinori ‘Tormaresca’ Trentangeli Rosso 2015
DOC Castel del Monte $19.95 (435529) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of cedar, berry fruit and mocha spill from this organically produced red blend—65% aglianico/25% cabernet sauvignon/10% syrah. Deep, dark, intense fruit flavours blanket the palate with briary berry and cherry mingling with white pepper and cassis. This is full bodied and well textured with a lengthy dry finish wrapped in a supple tannin cloak. Aerate/decant two hours and pour with grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)
• The sagrantino grape is indigenous to Umbria, Italy and grown extensively around the village of Montefalco. Although the growing area and overall production is quite small, it did gain DOCG status in the early 1990s due to its general high quality. It’s known as one of the most tannic red grapes—regulations require at least 29 months aging before release—and is often inky/black/opaque in the glass.
92
Villa Mora Montefalco Sagrantino 2009
DOCG Montefalco, Umbria $24.95 (342394) 14.5% alcohol
Dark and brooding in the glass, mixed spice and savoury herb aromas unleash a firm torrent of ripe, dark berry fruit and black plum compote interwoven with sharp spice and espresso roast coating the palate with excellent acidity and fine-grained tannin underpinning. This is full bodied and well textured with oodles of appeal, keen balance and long delicious aftertaste brimming with ripe fruit and delicious acidity. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with hearty game stew, osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)
92
Masi ‘Toar’ Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2014
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $21.95 (342444) 13.0 alcohol
Dark purple, almost opaque in the glass, aromas of spice and dark fruit introduce this medium-bodied, lively flavoured red blend—corvina/rondinella/oseleta. Flavours of cherry and black raspberry dominate the palate adorned with mixed spice and excellent tang. This is full bodied and generously textured with a lengthy finish that’s dry and mouth-watering, balanced and beautiful. Aerate/decant two hours pouring with grilled rib eye. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
90
Balbás ‘Reserva’ 2006
DO Ribera del Duero $23.95 (85183) 15.0% alcohol
The perfumed nose gives up aromas of dark berry fruit, leather and spice. The well-defined palate flavours of black currant, cherry and cassis flow creamy smooth while decorated with tang, soft tannin and balanced on a pin. Twelve years on, this still has lively fresh flavour and excellent acidity. Drink in the short term. (Vic Harradine)
90
Bodega Jesùs Romero ‘Rubus’ 2016
DO Aragón $18.95 (575944) 14.5% alcohol
This red blend—40% garnacha/40% syrah/20% tempranillo—offers a fruit-filled nose of über-ripe bramble berry, plum compote and black cherry aromas. It’s medium bodied with good texture coating the palate with black currant jelly, cassis and kirsch liqueur while managing to provide acidity and balance on the lengthy finish via hints of red currant. Pour alongside grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
88
Hacienda López de Haro ‘Reserva’ 2012
DOCa Rioja $19.95 (357335) 13.0% alcohol
This is a lively red blend of 90% tempranillo, 5% garnacha, 5% graciano. It bathes the palate with lively red cherry and racy cranberry robed in racy tang and sweet vanilla. It’s mid weight with good mouthfeel and a lengthy luxurious finish. This spent 20 months in American and French oak and further 24 months in bottle before release. It’s drinking well now with ripe tannin building slowly on the aftertaste—aerate/decant a couple of hours before service. (Vic Harradine)
91
Lealtanza ‘Reserva’ 2012
DOCa Rioja $22.95 (208223) 14.0% alcohol
Savory, leafy herbs, spice and pipe tobacco aromas provide segue for a well-paced and deftly balanced, smooth, mellow surge of red currant and black plum on the palate while marrying well with sprigs of herbs and red licorice. This is medium bodied with oodles of pizzazz and glamour, and is drinking well now. Pour alongside prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
• The following 2017 Gérard Bertrand ‘Gris Blanc’ Rosé was sourced from 100% grenache gris grapes, hand-picked and left to rest on its lees for several weeks before bottling.
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Gérard Bertrand ‘Gris Blanc’ Rosé 2017
IGP Pays d’Oc $16.95 (409870) + 1500 mL $32.95 (451138) 13.0% alcohol
Mineral/yeasty note aromas mingle with hints of strawberry on the nose of this lighter-styled Rosé. It bathes the palate with delicate flavours of cherry and strawberry adorned with herbs and spice. Pour with goat cheese salad or an assortment of mild cheese. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled – Old Vines’ Riesling was not showing on the LCBO.com website at time of publishing. However, you should be able to find if a store near you has stock by phoning 1-800 668-5226 or in the GTA at 416 365-5900.
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Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled – Old Vines’ Riesling 2015
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.95 (277228) 12.0% alcohol
Riesling lovers take note; sourced from vines approximately 20 years old, this is delicious and quite special. It offers cool-climate, dry-riesling aromas of sharp citrus notes, gun-flint minerality and notions of petrol. There’s a bracing line of laser-like flavour streaking over the palate with tangy lime, passionfruit and saline mineral notes to the fore. This has time on its side to evolve, although you can easily drink now; try with pan-seared fish or mussels steamed in white wine and leeks. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Pencarrow Pinot Noir was wild-yeast fermented with 5% whole clusters then matured 10 months in small oak barrel, 24% new.
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Pencarrow Pinot Noir 2016
Martinborough, North Island $24.95 (692301) 14.0% alcohol
This is quite special and value pack; stock up. It’s lightly hued and heavily perfumed with aromas of piquant spice, sprigs of savoury herbs and floral notes. It spreads over the palate with excellent sweet fruit and balancing tangy acidity as fresh red cherry and lively ripe raspberry intertwine with racy passionfruit persisting through the balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel, soft tannin, purity of fruit and a boatload of allure. Pour on its own or with duck confit. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Gérard Bertrand ‘Terroir Minervois’ Syrah/Carignan was hand-harvested, de-stemmed, underwent alcoholic fermentation and malolactic conversion separately before being blended and maturing in French oak barrique for approximately eight months.
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Gérard Bertrand ‘Terroir Minervois’ Syrah/Carignan 2015
AOC Minervois $16.95 (952804) 14.0% alcohol
Two staple grape varieties from this warm region of France, syrah and carignan, come together in this red after individual fermentation and malolactic conversion. Agitation is required to get chemical and fermentation notes out of the way and discover a fruity nose—dark cherry, purple plum, blackberry plus dry savoury herb and a distant oaky note. The ripe plum and blackberry replay on the palate along with piquant peppercorn enrobed in mellow tannin closing in a warm fruity and spicy finish. Crostini with olive tapenade is perfectly suited for this medium-full bodied, crowd pleaser. (Louise Boutin)
New in the LCBO Portfolio
Red Wine
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Sogrape ‘Mateus – Signature’ Red 2016
DOC Douro, Portugal $9.95 (308643) 12.5% alcohol
A spirited nose of raisin, fig and mixed spice introduce a tangy, fruit-driven flow of sour cherry, cranberry and piquant spice careening over the palate infusing the lengthy, drying finish. There are wisps of still-evolving tannin that will easily be ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. This is medium bodied with decent mouthfeel and plenty to like about the price-quality balance that tips well in your favour. Good to go with burgers, gourmet sausage, red pizza, wings or beef fajitas (Vic Harradine)
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Vicente Faria ‘Animus’ 2016
DOC Douro, Portugal $11.95 (535641) 13.0% alcohol
Sourced from a blend of grapes used in the production of premium Port—tinta roriz, touriga nacional, touriga franca—this dishes up aromas of wood smoke and dark berry fruit galore. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a balanced river of ripe black currant and dark cherry adorned with mixed spice and espresso-roast palate flavours followed by replays on the lingering finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
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Food Truck Winery Shiraz 2017
South Australia $14.95 (545608) 14.5% alcohol
This punches well above the price, is nicely balanced and structured with a lengthy aftertaste. Aromas of dark berry fruit and medicinal cherry notes on the nose, this sports a balanced stream of ripe dark cherry and black currant on the palate framed by excellent tangy acidity and underpinned by soft supple tannin. Well priced and well paced, give it a go with grilled beef kebabs. (Vic Harradine)
White Wine
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Bouchard Père et Fils Chardonnay 2016
Macon-Lugny, Saint-Pierre, France $19.35 (51573) 12.5% alcohol
Ripe apple and pear aromas provide segue for a sweet-tinged wash of yellow peach and tropical fruit flavour that coats the palate balanced and bountiful. It’s medium bodied with smooth mouthfeel and a lingering lip-smacking finish that’s clean, crisp and awash with lemony tang on the aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared fish or roasted, beer-can chicken. (Vic Harradine)
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LeftField Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Nelson, New Zealand $19.15 (487496) 12.0% alcohol
This is very good value. Nettles, herbal notes and tropical fruit aromas leap from the glass. It’s light-medium weight with excellent mouthfuls of gooseberry, lemon zest and Key lime pie racing over the palate with piquant spice and oodles of tang. The long mouth-watering finish is clean, crisp and refreshing. Pour in its own as a delightful sipper or with olive-oiled mesclun salad under crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
Rosé Wine
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Bacalhô ‘JP’ Azeotão/Syrah Rosé 2017
Vinho Regional Peninsula de Setubal, Portugal $8.95 13.0% alcohol
Spice, floral and strawberry aromas waft easily from this lip-smacking good Rosé. A gorgeous gusher of bright, red fruit—watermelon, strawberry and currant—washes over the palate infusing the finish with mouth-watering replays. Light-medium styled with creamy texture, this finishes in a blaze of fruit flavour and tangy acidity. Pour alongside a deli platter or a pan-seared, Atlantic salmon fillet. Why pay more? (Vic Harradine)
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Sogrape Gazella Rosé 2017
DOC Douro, Portugal $8.95 (404533) 12.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of floral notes and berry fruit set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour. An explosion of spritz and red fruit flavour—plum, raspberry and strawberry—dazzle the palate accompanied by wisps of herbs and spice and framed by juicy tang. It finishes crisp and dry with a boatload of charm. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
• Purchase the following two wines online from the winery for daily home, restaurant or office delivery or by email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or visit their Ottawa retail store in Minto Place at Laurier and Lyon or buy at their winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake -1025 York Rd, St. David’s Ontario L0S 1P0. Here’s a map.
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Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled – Old Vines’ Riesling 2015
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.95 (277228) 12.0% alcohol
Riesling lovers take note; sourced from vines approximately 20 years old, this is delicious and quite special. It offers classic, cool-climate, dry-riesling aromas of sharp citrus notes, gun-flint minerality and notions of petrol. There’s a bracing line of laser-like flavour streaking over the palate with tangy lime, passionfruit and saline mineral notes to the fore. This has time on its side to evolve, although you can easily drink now; try with pan-seared fish or mussels steamed in white wine and leeks. (Vic Harradine)
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Château des Charmes ‘St-David’s Vineyard’ Gewürztraminer 2016
VQA St-David’s Bench $21.95 (453472) 12.6 % alcohol
Orange marmalade, exotic spice and notions of rosewater aromas abound on the perfumed nose of this spice-laden, generously textured beauty. It coats the palate with heavenly scented nectarine and pear decorated with ginger snap, honeyed notes and tangy lime and pineapple flavours. This is medium weight with a dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Delightful sipped on its own, it pairs well with fish tacos, crab cakes or paella. (Vic Harradine)
New in Private Order
• Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via VinoLuna website, by Email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or, in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.
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Château la Vieille Eglise 2017
AOP Côtes du Marmandais, France $14.95 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—89% malbec/11% merlot—matured 6 months in stainless steel tank. Alluring aromas of rosewood, dark cherry and exotic spice provide segue for a fully fruited, palate-bathing wash of red berry fruit and cassis mingling with tang-laden acidity and wisps of soft supple tannin. Palate flavours replay and persist through the lengthy finish. This is medium weight with generous mouthfeel and a lip-smacking good aftertaste. The quality-price balance tips wildly in your favour. Pour with beef or chicken fajitas, just-off-the-grill burgers or grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Fattoria La Torre ‘Rosso delle Chiacchere’ red blend—45% cabernet sauvignon/35% merlot/20% sangiovese—was sourced from hand-picked fruit and matured 24 months in large and small French oak barrels and settled a further 12 months in bottle before release.
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Fattoria La Torre ‘Rosso delle Chiacchere’ 2015
IGT Toscano Rosso, Italy $16.95 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of exotic spice, iodine and berry fruit abound. A racy, tang-laden wash of red currant and sour cherry race over the palate decorated with still-evolving tannin followed by a dry and drying finish and aftertaste. Tuck this way for an additional 12 months or aerate/decant for three hours pouring alongside pasta Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2014 Faustino Rivero Ulecia ‘Silver Label’ Reserva was sourced from 85% tempranillo/15% garnacha fruit from vines averaging 25 years old. Grapes were fermented by wild yeast with the wine spending 24 months in medium-toast American oak casks and at least 12 months in bottle before release.
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Faustino Rivero Ulecia ‘Silver Label’ Reserva 2014
DOCa Rioja, Spain $16.95 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of forest floor, earthy notes and black plum make way for a spirited, fresh stream of palate-streaking, crunchy red fruit—currant, cherry and raspberry—framed by racy acidity and underpinned by ripe supple tannin. This is straightforward, medium bodied and nicely textured with a dry, lengthy, nicely balanced finish. Pour with pasta puttanesca now and over the next five years. (Vic Harradine)
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Alberto Bartali Chianti Riserva 2015
DOCG Chianti, Italy $18.95 13.0% alcohol
This is sourced from 100% sangiovese grapes, kept on lees a couple of weeks after fermentation and malolactic conversion enhancing mouthfeel and flavours. It opens with aromas of earthy, savoury, gamy notes robed in red berry fruit. It bathes the palate with ripe, medium-bodied flavours of dark cherry and black plum interwoven with spice, excellent racy tang and wisps of supple tannin. This finishes balanced, tangy and quite smooth. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving with your favourite pasta and meat dish in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Château Sainte-Marie ‘Alios’ was sourced from vines with an average age of 24 years. After fermentation, the red blend—74% merlot/21% cabernet sauvignon/5% petit verdot—matured 12 months in French oak.
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Château Sainte-Marie ‘Alios’ 2015
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux, France $15.95 13.5% alcohol
This punches well above the price showcasing lively, fresh red and dark cherry/berry fruit flavour persisting throughout, deft balance, good weight and structure, soft ripe tannin and lingering finish. On the nose, aromas of piquant spice, floral notes and grilled savoury herbs make way for a medium-plus bodied, nicely textured river of juicy briary berry and black Bing cherry interlaced with peppery spice and notions of fig and mocha. This is drinking well now and on to, at least, 2024. Aerate/decant two hours before serving with roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Vaucher Pere & Fils Fleurie is 100% gamay and underwent full carbonic maceration—a unique type of fermentation (anaerobic) used in virtually all red wines in Beaujolais and occasionally in other parts of the wine world—before settling in 100% stainless steel tank—no oak. Fleurie is one of ten special Cru areas in Beaujolais and, perhaps, the best known and most highly regarded; it’s not to be confused with, or thought of as similar to, the much lighter, less age-worthy, less structured, Beaujolais Nouveau.
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Vaucher Pere & Fils Fleurie 2016
AOC Fleurie, France $16.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of violets, dark berry fruit and mixed spice spill from this medium-bodied, lively gem. It glides over the palate, creamy smooth and well textured revealing fresh flavours of red currant and sweet-tinged cherry/berry fruit intertwined with excellent tangy acidity. This pours exceptionally well with a selection of sliced deli meat, pate, assorted cheese along with sliced tomato, baguette and condiments. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic