August 12, 2018 Newsletter
Newsletter Highlights include:
- Exceptional-value wine
– 11 of 57 wines will soon be available at LCBO retail meeting strict quality-price guidelines. They’re found in the following Vintages Release. These wines range from $10.15 to $29.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here. - 95 and over – this scored 95 points – 2016 Villa Maria ‘Southern Clays - Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc @ $29.95 found under New Zealand: White Wine.
- Vic Picks – 2016 Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Pinot Noir scored 92 points @ $34.95 is found under Ontario: Red Wine; 2014 El Enemigo Malbec scored 93 points @ $25.95 is found under Argentina: Red Wine; 2015 Diffonty ‘Cuvée du Vatican’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape earned 93 points at $38.95 is found under France: Red Wine; 2016 Carpineto Chianti Classico earned 92 points at $19.95 is found under Italy: Red Wine and, of course, all his exceptional value wines.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed as well as online—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone the store before making a trip.
August 18, 2018 Vintages Release
Whisky
93
Caribou Crossing ‘Single Barrel’ Canadian Whisky
Quebec $93.95 (205906) 40.0% alcohol
Aromas of spice, honey cake and mocha unfurl from this full-flavoured gem. It rolls over the palate, smooth and mellow with flavours of peel marmalade, marzipan and peppery notes intertwined with baking spice. This is reported to be Canada’s first single-barrel effort from a large producer in this century, resulting in each barrel offering its own nuanced set of aromas and flavours; it’s certainly worth a try for aficionados and whisky-lovers alike. (Vic Harradine)
Champagne
92
Château de Bligny ‘Brut Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $54.95 (385112) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of toast, baking bread and flinty minerality abound on the nose of this non-vintage gem. It dishes up a profusion of mousse when poured, aka lots of bubbles, and persistent streams of fine-bead bubbles while sitting in the glass. There’s good sweet and tang on the palate with sweet-tinged fruit flavour—apple, nectarine and ripe pear—meeting up with citrus tang and mineral notes on the back palate and mouth-watering aftertaste. In a word… delicious. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
92
Jansz Sparkling Rosé Brut Non-Vintage
Tasmania, Australia $27.95 (37499) 12.0% alcohol
This is produced by one of Australia’s top sparkling wine producers in the traditional method with top-drawer fruit and just a hint of pink hue. It delivers a profusion of mousse and is bursting with racy flavour. Aromas of strawberry and mineral notes make way for a lip-smacking mouthful of red currant and lemon-lime tang streaking over the palate infusing the crisp, refreshing finish and aftertaste. It pours well on its own and pairs with pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
91
Organized Crime Chardonnay 2016
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment $18.95 (408435) 13.0% alcohol
Lemon zest and orange marmalade aromas precede an excellent wash of palate-enveloping flavours of racy lemon-lime, green apple and pear that’s clean, crisp and refreshing and interlaced with softer wisps of tropical fruit. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouthfeel and a lingering, balanced finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside roast chicken or breaded pork cutlets. (Vic Harradine)
91
Redstone Chardonnay 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.70 (398966) 12.5% alcohol
Citrus, floral notes and orchard fruit aromas precede a racy flow of lemon and Key lime citrus streaking across the palate garnished with Granny Smith apple and notions of flint/minerality. It’s medium weight with good mouthfeel and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste of apple skin and lemony tang. Pour alongside pan-seared fish or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)
89
Vineland Estates Gewürztraminer 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (434779) 13.0% alcohol
This is lighter styled with luscious, sweet-tinged flavour and a tell-tale gewürzt bite on the dry finish and aftertaste. Exotic spice and rosewater aromas introduce an intensely flavoured, palate-bathing stream of ripe pineapple, honeyed pit fruit and ginger snap. It finishes dry with a mid-length aftertaste and pleasing spicy bite. Pour with Asian cuisine or baked ham. (Vic Harradine)
90
Westcott ‘Lillias - Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (425322) 12.9% alcohol
Aromas of apple and pear dominate the nose of this medium-weight, nicely textured chardonnay. It sports a clean, crisp flow of minerality and orchard fruit on the palate with pear, apple and lemon curd flavours to the fore. The finish is long and lively with good balance and lip-smacking freshness. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
• Fruit for the following 2016 Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was sourced from two separate, premium, estate vineyards—90% Churchside/10% South Clos. It saw minimal time in French oak, only 10% new.
92
Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 (145888) 12.3% alcohol
Lightly hued in the glass, aromas of cherry cola, beetroot and mixed spice abound. It bathes the palate with a fruit-forward, balanced wash of raspberry/rhubarb flavours adorned with ripe sweet red plum, mixed Indian spice and pleasant tang and acidity throughout. It has good mouthfeel, shows finesse and elegance, has persistent purity of fruit, is delicious from twist top to last drop and has great appeal when sipped on its own or poured with smoked duck breasts or pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)
89
Keint-He ‘Portage’ Pinot Noir 2014
VQA Prince Edward County $25.00 (373415) 12.7% alcohol
Piquant spice and mixed cherry/berry fruit waft from this well-paced, light-on-its-feet Pinot. An enticing, light-medium bodied wave of tangy and truly delicious flavours blanket the palate with dark juicy Bing cherry entwined with grilled savory herbs and a dollop of charm. The finish with replays and fairly good length. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Rosé Wine
90
Three of Hearts Rosé 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (552562) 12.0% alcohol
This is a classy, very well-priced blend of 62% pinot noir, 38% pinot gris with aromas of strawberry and floral notes on the nose. It washes over the palate with good yin and yang via balanced sweet and tang on the palate expressed by flavours of tangy red grapefruit citrus notes nicely partnered with ripe freshly picked strawberries. It finishes crisp and refreshing. Pour on its own as a delightful sipper or with a charcuterie board or white pizza adorned with olive-oiled arugula and chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
Okanagan Valley: White Wine
93
Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2015
VQA Okanagan Valley $23.95 (377770) 14.0% alcohol
Quiet aromas of sandalwood, citrus and apple introduce a sleek and lean flow of tang-infused lemon and grapefruit racing across the palate with Granny Smith apple and ripe pear flavours. This is mid-weight with decent texture and crisp, clean mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared salmon under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
91
Cambria ‘Katherine’s Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2015
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara $29.95 (980490) 14.5% alcohol
Powerful aromas of toasty oak dominate the nose along with lesser notes of pit fruit and citrus. A full-bodied, fully textured gusher of flavour coat the palate—ripe apple and oaky notes interplaying with baking spice, hazelnut and white nectarine—before infusing the lengthy finish and aftertaste with persistent replays. Pour with crown roast of pork or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2013 Madrone Estate Winery ‘Valley of the Moon – Blend 41’ is a white blend of 85% Pinot Blanc and 15% Viognier that was cool fermented in stainless steel and was not allowed to go through malolactic conversion thereby retaining its crisp freshness and high appeal.
92
Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc/Viognier 2015
Sonoma Country $19.95 (577775) 14.1% alcohol
Quiet aromas of mixed spice and floral notes provide segue to a well-paced, extremely well-priced swath of blood orange, honeyed pit fruit, piquant spice, racy lemon zest and Key lime bathing the palate, invigorating the taste buds. This is balanced on a pin with creamy-smooth texture and good weight. It finishes luscious, lingering and lip-smacking good. Pour with fish tacos or crab cakes. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
89
Ravenswood ‘Old Vine’ Lodi Zinfandel 2015
Lodi, California $19.95 (942599) 14.5% alcohol
This is classic Californian, irresistible, fruit-forward Zin with aromas of raspberry jam, blackberry, stewed black plum covered with baking spice, vanilla and a note of burnt sugar. This Lodi-trademarked, full-bodied zin delivers a wash of ripe, sappy black fruit, racy fresh raspberry draped in extra-sexy tannins ending on a long dry finish robed in mocha. This is crowd friendly and the perfect dance partner to your favourite spicy, grilled, pork back-ribs. (Louise Boutin)
88
White Oak ‘Mighty Oak’ Red Blend 2013
Napa Valley $28.95 (570853) 14.1% alcohol
Grilled savoury herbs, mocha and mixed spice aromas open this malbec/merlot/syrah red blend. It blankets the palate with red and black fruit—red cherry, red currant and black raspberry—decorated with sprigs of herbs and espresso roast. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy smooth mouthfeel and a lingering, dry and balanced finish. Pour with grilled steak, burgers or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
89
Chakana Estate ‘Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza $19.95 (555540) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of dark cherry and dark chocolate on the nose precede a tang-laden river of pie cherry and passionfruit intertwined with savoury herbs and piquant spice on the palate. It’s medium-full weight with good texture and a lengthy dry finish laced with herbs and excellent tang. Pour with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Malbec was sourced from hand-picked, late-ripening fruit at approx. 700 m to 1200 m a.s.l. in the semi-desert, premium growing areas of Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco. It was fermented with native and commercial yeasts in closed-top stainless tanks and bottled unfined.
92
Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Malbec 2016
Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (118067) 14.0% alcohol
This is quite elegant and excellent value. Aromas of fresh red berry fruit, dark plum, pencil shavings and vanilla abound. It bathes the palate with a lively fresh, high-toned flow of pie cherry and red currant interlaced with bramble berry, blueberry and kirsch liqueur adorned with white pepper notes, mocha and oodles of tang. This is mid-full bodied with textured mouthfeel and a lingering, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. It’s deftly balanced with good depth and plenty of charm. (Vic Harradine)
93
El Enemigo Malbec 2014
Mendoza $25.95 (400150) 13.5% alcohol
This 85% malbec/15% cabernet franc is quite special; it’s fully flavoured, fully textured with structure, purity of fruit and a profoundly pleasing overall ambiance. Aromas of mixed spice, earthiness, savory herbs and dark berry fruit provide segue to a structured wash of cassis, black cherry and bramble berry fruit interwoven with black licorice and excellent tang on the palate. It’s medium-plus bodied, well balanced, underpinned by supple tannin and adorned with finesse and elegance. Aerate/decant for three hours; pour the first glass for sipping then pair the balance with your favourite cut of grilled lamb or beef. (Vic Harradine)
87
La Posta ‘Pizzella’ Malbec 2016
Mendoza $15.95 (166298) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of red cherry/berry fruit, herbs and red licorice herald an über-tangy line of bracing acidity expressed as racy sour cherry and cranberry on the palate of this mid-weight malbec. Palate flavours replay underpinned by perceptible chalky tannin and robed with baking spice. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or Swiss steak after a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: White Wine
91
Chalk Hill ‘Alpha Crucis’ Fiano 2017
McLaren Vale, South Australia $21.95 (571158) 12.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of honeydew melon and sprigs of savoury herbs herald a balanced and beautiful wash of ripe pit fruit—yellow plum, peach and nectarine—framed by excellent tang and acidity. This is deftly balanced and medium bodied with a refreshing quality that reverberates throughout. Definitely a candidate for pouring with seafood; give it a go with pan-seared fish, steam mussels or seafood chowder. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Brokenwood Semillon has an interesting history. Brokenwood was founded in 1970 by three Sydney-based lawyers who were also amateur winemakers with one of them being James Halliday, who now dominates the reviews on Australian wine in Vintages catalogues. The winery is now recognized as producing premium wine with their top shiraz, the ‘Graveyard Vineyard’. It’s included in the top category of Langton’s classification of Australian fine wines along with 20 others including Penfold’s Grange and Henschke’s Hill of Grace.
90
Brokenwood Semillon 2016
Hunter Valley, New South Wales $22.95 (657726) 10.5% alcohol
Pear, apple and herbs on the nose, this streaks over the palate with bracing acidity and flavours of lemon-lime and white grapefruit. At present it’s clean, crisp and refreshing from twist top to last drop. Medium weight and nicely textured, this requires another seven or eight years in bottle to develop full texture and the wonderful honeyed tones of aged Hunter Valley semillon. (Vic Harradine)
91
Watershed ‘Senses’ Chardonnay 2016
Margaret River, Western Australia $26.95 (570150) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring pit fruit, nutty notes and tropical fruit aromas abound. A spice-laden wash of toasty notes, racy white grapefruit and softer Key lime hurries over the palate, medium-full bodied, full flavoured, fully textured and full of interest and charm. Chicken Kiev or pork chops pair nicely. (Vic Harradine)
89
Chalk Hill ‘Wits End’ Vermentino 2017
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (572545) 13.0% alcohol
Lifted, assertive aromas of piquant spice, lime and flinty/mineral notes attack the olfactory system. This is medium weight with bracing acidity on the palate riding a wave of flavour with gooseberry, mineral notes, white grapefruit and lemon zest leading the way. Palate flavours replay on the finish and aftertaste making this a perfect candidate to be poured alongside prawn ceviche, briny, freshly shucked oysters or sushi. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
91
De Bortoli ‘G.S.’ Pinot Noir 2017
Yarra Valley, Victoria $19.95 (15511) 13.0% alcohol
Delicate, intricate aromas of savoury herbs, mixed spice and mixed field berry fruit waft easily from this well-paced, well-made pinot from one of Australia’s leading family-owned wineries. This medium bodied, balanced and beautiful throughout. A lively stream of piquant spice and racy acidity bathe the palate expressed as delectable flavours of passionfruit and tart cranberry. They’re joined on the back palate and mouth-watering finish with ripe red cherry and black plum. The price-quality balance here tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
92
The Lackey Shiraz 2016
Australia $17.95 (5199) 14.5% alcohol
Mocha, mulberry and ripe black plum aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of palate flavours that coat the palate with gusto—black currant, juicy black cherry, dark chocolate, peppery spice and a boatload of charm. It’s full bodied and generously textured with lengthy finish of dark berry fruit, mocha and sweet vanilla. Pour with grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
88
Pepper Tree ‘Estate Grown’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Wrattonbully, South Australia $22.95 (570713) 14.0% alcohol
Unique aromas of mint, black pepper and aromatic bitters lead the way to a tang-laced flow of red currant and sour cherry decorated with piquant spice and wisps of espresso roast and excellent tang on the palate. It finishes with a solid underpinning of grainy tannin in need of a three-hour aeration/decant or a couple of years more of careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)
91
Schild Estate Shiraz 2015
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (66555) 14.5% alcohol
Inky-black hued in the glass, this is fruit forward, nicely balanced and well-priced with a long, lively finish. Aromas of wood smoke, savoury herbs and black plum set the table for a smorgasbord of palate flavours with baking spice, black fruit—currant, plum and cherry—mingling with mocha and wisps of dark bittersweet chocolate. The lengthy finish captures most palate flavours while delivering a clean dry aftertaste. Pour with meat-laden pizza, burgers or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
92
Torbreck ‘Woodcutter’s’ Shiraz 2016
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (927533) 15.0% alcohol
The fruit-forward nose of black currant and grilled savoury herbs precede a medium-full bodied, palate-coating, creamy-smooth, fully textured gusher of bramble berry jam along with adornments of tarry notes and black licorice. It finishes balanced and lengthy with palate replays along with sprigs of mixed herbs. Pour with roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
89
Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Coonawarra/Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (142398) 14.5% alcohol
Earthy notes, dark berry fruit, mint and sprigs of savoury herb aromas leap from the glass. It showers the palate with a medium-plus bodied, nicely textured and concentrated river of spice box, tangy red cherry and hints of fennel. Dark, juicy berry fruit appears on the finish and aftertaste framed by lip-smacking acidity and underpinned by soft ripe tannin. Pour alongside grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
92
Coopers Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (957407) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of piquant spice, grassy notes and citrus show the way for a trio of tangy flavours—lemon zest, white grapefruit and gooseberry—that dominate the tang-laden palate flavours and persist with replays through the lengthy finish that’s somewhat balanced with riper orchard fruit—pear and apple. This is very good value and pours well with olive-oiled mesclun under crumbled goat cheese. (Vic Harradine)
90
Mokoblack Sauvignon Blanc 2016
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (554576) 13.0% alcohol
Citrus, mineral and pineapple aromas lead the way to an intense line of searing acidity on the palate with flavours of mouth-watering lemon, racy passionfruit and tangy grapefruit to the fore. This is light-medium weight with good texture and the finish and aftertaste replay palate flavours with great élan. Pour with mussels steamed in white wine or pan-fried calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)
95
Villa Maria ‘Southern Clays - Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2016
Marlborough, South Island $29.95 (447474) 13.0% alcohol
Bell pepper, piquant gun flint and savory herb aromas capture interest on the nose. It surges over the front palate with a gusher of ripe melon and peach then delivers taut, cleansing tang—passionfruit, white grapefruit and lemongrass—on the back palate and finish. It’s medium bodied with satin-smooth texture and lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with toasted bagel smeared with cream cheese and topped with smoked salmon and capers. (Vic Harradine)
Austria: White Wine
88
Esterházy Galántha Grüner Veltliner 2017
Qualitätswein, Burgenland $16.95 (568501) 12.5% alcohol
This is very well priced, barely off-dry on the palate with a clean, dry and refreshing finish. Aromas of peppery spice and citrus portend a light-medium weight river of orchard fruit—pear, apple and green plum—juxtaposed with tasty, tang-laden lemon along with peppery notes on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared salmon or whitefish. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
88
Cave de Hunawhir ‘Kuhlmann-Platz’ - Vieilles Vignes’ Riesling 2016
AOC Alsace $17.95 (196741) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of orchard fruit and floral notes on the nose, it sports palate-bathing flavours of crisp lemon-lime and ripe pineapple interlace with piquant spice and excellent tang. It’s pretty straightforward from a trusted co-operative with medium weight, good mouthfeel and a long mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This pours well as an aperitif or with lighter-styled sea food or white-meat appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
92
Alain Geoffroy ‘Beauroy’ Chablis 1er Cru 2016
AOC Chablis $36.95 (733501) 13.0% alcohol
A highly perfumed nose of floral notes, apple and pear waft from this premiere cru Chablis. It’s crisp and clean from cork pop to last drop with oodles of flavour—apple, pear and lemongrass carried along a racy line of citrus acidity and steely minerality. This medium-bodied, nicely textured chardonnay pairs well with all the usual suspects—fresh or cooked oysters, pan-seared or grilled sea food, sushi or ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
93
l’Expression de Margaux’ 2014
AOC Margaux $40.95 (431734) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit, earthy notes and baking spice portend a well-structured Margaux. This bathes the palate with rich, luscious flavours—red and black currant, cassis and kirsch liqueur—interlaced with black licorice and spice box. It’s medium-plus bodied with gorgeous mouthfeel, a dollop of charm and a lengthy, balanced and beautiful finish. (Vic Harradine)
93
Diffonty ‘Cuvée du Vatican’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $38.95 (560946) 15.0% alcohol
As wines from C-d-P go, this is top tier and very well priced. It’s a 65% grenache/25% syrah/10% mourvèdre blend with exotic aromas, polished fruit flavours, is balanced on a pin with persistent purity of fruit and racy tang. Aromas of cedar, garrigue and dark cherry/berry fruit jump from the glass. It envelops the palate with creamy smooth layers of black currant, black Bing cherry and tang-laced cranberry interwoven with savory herbs, vanilla and sharp spice. It’s full bodied and nicely structured with a monumentally long finish. It was also tough to spit. Drink now and over the next decade. A two-hour aeration/decant never hurts a red wine. (Vic Harradine)
91
La Ferme du Mont ‘Première Côte - Côtes du Rhône 2016
AOP Côtes du Rhône $18.95 (251645) 14.0% alcohol
Spice box and mixed field berry aromas mingle with floral notes and leafy herbs on the nose of this smooth and mellow grenache/syrah/mourvèdre blend. It rolls over the palate in well-balanced waves with red and black currant, black plum, vanilla and mixed spice flavours framed by excellent tangy acidity tang and bolstered by soft, ripe tannin. It’s just shy of full bodied with good mouthfeel and a long dry finish. It’s good to go now and pours well alongside what you grill on your barbecue. (Vic Harradine)
89
Les Amouriers ‘Signature’ Vacqueyras 2015
AOC Vacqueyras $28.95 (381038) 14.5% alcohol
Grilled savory herbs and red berry fruit aromas give way to a medium-plus bodied, spirited wash of tang and tannin streaking across the palate riding a wave of pie cherry, passionfruit and local, leafy herbs. This finishes in a lingering, dry and mouth-drying feeling. A three-hour aeration/decant is called for; two more years of careful cellaring, if you have such a space, would be advisable. (Vic Harradine)
91
Gemma ‘Colarej’ Barolo 2013
DOCG Barolo $39.95 (232447) 14.0% alcohol
This has a considerable life span ahead, but is also drinking well now. Aromas of floral notes, tar and mixed cherry/berry fruit set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with crunchy red fruit—currant, cranberry and cherry—interwoven with ripe dark cherry and juicy black plum all infused with juicy, mouth-watering tang. The finish and aftertaste feature excellent acidity, red berry fruit and ripe juicy cherry flavours along with supple tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before service. (Vic Harradine)
92
Carpineto Chianti Classico 2016
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (356048) 13.0% alcohol
The perfumed nose of this 80% sangiovese/20% canaiolo red blend offers up aromas of sandalwood, piquant spice and berry fruit. On the palate it delivers persistent purity of fruit—lively red cherry and red currant flavours dominate throughout—deft balance and a profoundly tang-laden and delicious finish and aftertaste. This is medium bodied and well textured with a generous amount of finesse and charm. Pour with rare-grilled striploin. (Vic Harradine)
89
Azienda Agricola Lanciola ‘Le Masse Di Greve’ Chianti Classico 2013
DOCG Chianti Classico $23.95 (395152) 14.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, floral notes and spice introduce this medium-weight nicely textured red with generous, delightful tang and fruit-forward flavour. It rides a wave of bracing tang on the palate delivered via cranberry, red currant and notes of pomegranate. On the back palate and finish there’s wisps of ripe dark fruit—plum and cherry—providing a lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or meat lasagna. (Vic Harradine)
92
Tommasi ‘Arele Parziale’ Appassimento 2015
IGT Della Venezie $18.95 (224188) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of campfire smoke and spice box open this delicious value-laden appassimento—70% Corvina and 10% each of Rondinella, Oseleta, Merlot. A satin-smooth flowing river of spice, black cherry, black currant and dark plum coat the palate infusing the deftly balanced finish and aftertaste. This is medium-plus bodied with good weight and a dry, lingering aftertaste—what’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
88
El Coto Crianza 2014
DOCa Rioja $16.95 (190504) 13.0% alcohol
Look for sweet-tinged candied flavour. Aromas of spice, berry fruit and vanilla abound. A sweet and candied wash of cherry and strawberry coat the palate infusing the finish and aftertaste. This is light-medium bodied with slight tang on the finish. Pour with grilled ribs mopped with lightly spiced barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Rosé Wine
88
Gérard Bertrand Gris Blanc Rosé 2017
IGP Pays d’Oc $16.95 (409870) + 1500 mL $32.95 (451138) 13.0% alcohol
Mineral/yeasty note aromas mingle with hints of strawberry on the nose of this lighter-styled Rosé. It bathes the palate with delicate flavours of cherry and strawberry adorned with herbs and spice. Pour with goat cheese salad or an assortment of mild cheese. (Vic Harradine)
90
Barón de Ley Rosé 2017
DOCa Rioja $14.95 (117283) 13.5% alcohol
A full-Monty Rosé, it barrels from the glass with aromas galore—red raspberry, pomegranate and plum intertwined with leafy herbal notes and piquant spice. This is medium weight with good mouthfeel and plenty of pizzazz on the nose, palate and aftertaste. Go for the gusto and serve with a deli board, crab cakes or grilled kebabs. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: October 13, 2018
• Fruit for the following 2015 Gérard Bertrand ‘GrandTerroir – La Clape’ Syrah/Carignan/Mourvèdre was hand-harvested, de-stemmed and left to macerate in stainless steel tanks for approximately three weeks before being decanted into seasoned barrels for eight months maturation.
89
Gérard Bertrand ‘GrandTerroir – La Clape’ Syrah/Carignan/Mourvèdre 2015
AOC La Clape, France $18.95 (370262) 14.0% alcohol
Fresh, intense and lively aromas of piquant spice, minerality and dark berry fruit abound. A rich flow of crunchy red fruit—currant and cherry—hustles across the palate infused with excellent tangy acidity and wisps of soft, supple tannin. This is medium bodied with good texture and a dry, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce or spaghetti in Bolognese sauce. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
91
Madrone Estate Winery ‘Valley of the Moon – Blend 41’ 2013
Sonoma County, California $26.95 (570838) 14.8% alcohol
This red blend, an ode to its Italian heritage,—zinfandel/syrah/barbera/merlot/petite sirah/sangiovese—is all about ripe, dark fruit, excellent balance and a gorgeous gusher of flavour from cork pop to last drop. Aromas of cassis, Italian bitters and bramble berry jam precede medium-plus bodied, well-textured mouthfuls of piquant spice interlaced with racy acidity and tang with generous dollops of black plum, dark Bing cherry and red currant. It finishes lengthy with palate replays, soft wisps of tannin and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)
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Adega Mãe ‘Dory’ Tinto 2016
Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal $16.95 (570085) 13.5% alcohol
Forest floor, cedar and grilled herb aromas on the nose, this launches a tart, spirited attack on the palate with piquant spice, racy tang and red and black berry fruit leading the charge. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouthfeel and a lingering finish of piquant tang and spice mingling with red and black currant. Aerate/decant this red blend—touriga national, tinta roriz, merlot, syrah—for a couple of hours pouring with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
New in LCBO Portfolio Wine
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Josh Cellars Chardonnay 2016
California $17.95 (561100) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit, pear and apple abound on this medium-weight, nicely textured, well-balanced beauty. It rolls over the palate with a creamy smooth wash of fruit flavour with nectarine, apple, racy grapefruit and lemon curd to the fore. The crisp, refreshing, mid-length finish is deftly balanced making it versatile at the table. Give it a go with chicken, roast pork or sea food. (Vic Harradine)
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Food Truck Wines ‘Big n’ Buttery” Chardonnay 2017
Australia $14.90 (545590) 13.5% alcohol
The ripe orchard fruit aromas on the nose give way to crisp lemon and racy lime on the palate, medium-bodied, well-textured and tang infused. Palate flavours replay on the lingering finish and aftertaste. It pairs well with pan-seared fish under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon or grilled, breaded calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)
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Canyon Road Chardonnay 2016
California $10.15 (552513) 13.0% alcohol
A subdued nose can be coaxed with vigorous swirls to give up aromas of citrus, mixed spice and floral notes. A lovely river of ripe apple and pear are joined by lemon pie-filling and grapefruit pith on the back palate and finish. This is a lighter-styled chardonnay that’s light-medium weight and softly textured with balanced aftertaste. Pour on its own as a sipper before dinner or pair with light seafood appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
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La Chasse Vacqueyras 2015
AOP Vacqueyras, France $19.95 (543868) 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour here. This is medium-full bodied and nicely balanced with good fruit flavour, structure, excellent acidity and a lengthy finish. A rich, luscious flow of fully textured, ripe, dark berry fruit—raspberry, cherry, currant—mingles with dark chocolate, spice, grilled herbs and dark coffee on the palate. These flavours replay on the lengthy aftertaste along with wisps of soft tannin. This is drinking well now and enhanced by a two-hour aeration/decant. Pour with grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)
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Dachshund Pinot Grigio 2017
Qualitätswein, Rheinhessen, Germany $12.10 (539536) 12.0% alcohol
Pit fruit and floral aromas on the nose make way for racy streak of citrus on the palate—white grapefruit and lemon-lime—interwoven with ripe pineapple and passionfruit flavours. There’s a grapefruit pith taste on the finish and aftertaste. This is mid weight and lightly textured with opportunities to pour well with sushi or mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)
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Deinhard Riesling/Moscato 2017
Qualitätswein, Württemberg, Germany $12.95 (543975) 10.0% alcohol
Aromas of floral notes, minerality and spice introduce a palate-bathing, sweet flow of flavour—peach, white nectarine and lime cordial—that dominates this light-on-its-feet riesling/moscato blend. The finish and aftertaste are sweet-tinged and somewhat brief, but not many wines at this price. Pour on its own or with spicy Asian cuisine or a fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Sandbanks ‘Sleeping Giant’ Foch/Baco Noir has a limited-time offer of $2.00 off the price shown below, now to August 19, 2018. That makes this an ‘exceptional buy’ at $17.95 during that period. Stock up.
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Sandbanks ‘Sleeping Giant’ Foch/Baco Noir 2017
VQA Ontario $19.95 (164087) 12.8% alcohol
Über-ripe dark fruit and raisin aromas abound on the nose of this tang-infused, red blend. A racy river of pie cherry and cranberry race over the palate and infuse the finish and aftertaste underpinned by soft subtle tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving with meat-laden pizza with spicy tomato sauce or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)
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Artisan Wine ‘Fern Walk’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (575639) 12.3% alcohol
This lighter-styled sauvignon blanc offers aromas of gassy notes, piquant spice and sprigs of mixed herbs. Flavours of sweet nectarine and ripe pear meet up with lemon curd and gooseberry tang on the palate replaying on the balanced finish. This is medium bodied with good mouthfeel and a clean, crisp, mouth-watering aftertaste. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic