June 18, 2018 Newsletter
July 1 weekend is certainly a time to wave the flag. This is not in the nature of many Canadians, but perhaps should be. For anyone who travels to other countries, watches the news or reads a newspaper, it becomes obvious, in spite of shortcomings, that Canada rates near the top of places to live… not perfect, but on balance, much better than the vast majority.
And now to wine—it’s time to give our collective heads a shake. Canada makes world-class wines, mediocre wines and some that make you wonder how on earth they came to market—that places us right on par with all other wine-making countries including France, Italy, Australia, USA et al. Why not give wines from Canada a chance this Canada Day weekend? There are over thirty Canadian wines and one sparkling, hard apple cider to choose from in this newsletter, all marked with our flag. If you’re matching with food, most reviews have suggestions. If you’re unsure, or have any questions about any aspect of wine, send an email to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
• If you’re on board with drinking or trying Canadian wine, why not forward this winecurrent.com to a few of your friends.
Newsletter Highlights include:
- New in Wineries – there are myriad interesting, value-laden wines in the latter half of the newsletter. Many are bespoke, limited-production wines that will never make their way to LCBO shelves. These are wines sold through Canadian wineries and will be delivered to your home or office.
- Exceptional-value wine
– 6 of 72 wines will soon be available at LCBO retail meeting strict quality-price guidelines. They’re found in and after the Vintages Release. These wines range from $12.25 to $24.95 and are found throughout the newsletter easily identified via the exceptional-value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here. - 95 and over – only one wine scored 95 points or over – 2016 Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Shiraz @ $24.95 and found under Australia: Red Wine’
- Lisa Likes – 2017 Hidden Bench ‘Locust Lane’ Rosé earned 90 points @ $22.95 found under Ontario: Rosé Wine; 2017 Thirty Bench ‘Small Lot’ earned 90 points @ $29.95 found under Ontario: Rosé Wine; and, of course, all the exceptional-value wines.
- Vic Picks – Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Baco Noir 2016 earned 92 points @ $24.95 found under Ontario: Red Wines; Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling earned 91 points @ $16.95 found under New in Vintages; 2017 Rosehall Run ‘Defiant’ Pinot Noir earned 90 points @ $19.95 founder New in LCBO; and, of course, all the exceptional-value wines.
Identify the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on ‘Select Stores’ and entering your postal code—the number of bottles available in stores near you is displayed—or by clicking ‘Check all stores’ where you’ll see stock available in all LCBO stores. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO wines (wine not in Vintages) should always closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone the store before making a trip.
June 23, 2018 Release
Sake
91
Homare Nigori Strawberry Sake
Fukushima Prefecture, Japan $21.75 500 mL (384776) 7.0% alcohol
A blend of low-alcohol sake and strawberry fruit coats the palate with a delightful mouthful of strawberry milkshake. One would be hard-pressed, if tasting blind, to detect the alcohol; it’s simply delicious. Serve chilled or over ice, making certain to shake the bottle well before pouring. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
89 
Benjamin Bridge ‘Nova 7’ 2016
Nova Scotia $24.95 (256289) 6.5% alcohol
This is light-pink hued in the glass with aromas of exotic spice, muscat grapes—floral, spicy and grapey—and mandarin orange galore. A surge of sweet ambrosia blankets the palate with piquant spice, minerality and tropical fruit drizzled with lime juice to the fore. It finishes fairly clean and pours well as an aperitif; it also pairs well with prawn bisque or lemon curd cake.
Ontario: White Wine
• The following 2017 Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc was hand harvested, hand sorted, whole-bunch pressed and 20% barrel fermented; the balance in stainless steel tank and held a short 36 hours on gross lees. Initial aromas of rosewater and tropical fruit belie the fact this is 100% cool-climate, sauvignon blanc. However, bottom line is… it’s exceptional value and delicious wine.
90 
Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (89011) 13.0% alcohol
Tropical fruit and rosewater aromas interweave with notions of melon and gooseberry before dishing up a lovely river of ripe pit fruit—nectarine, peach and yellow plum—and a racy line of delectable lemon-lime tang. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouthfeel, persistent purity of fruit and a superb crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own or with sushi or olive-oiled arugula under cubed chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
91
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Riesling 2016
VQA Short Hills Bench $24.95 (643361) 11.5% alcohol
This was sourced from some of their oldest, estate riesling vines. Sharp mineral and petrol aromas introduce a gorgeous flow of spice- and tang-infused notes that streak across the palate with great élan adorned with ripe orchard fruit—Granny Smith apple, Bosc pear, yellow plum—and a lip-smacking, tang-laden, mouth-watering finish. This is medium weight, slightly off dry on the palate with good mouthfeel and plenty of pizzazz on the finish. Pour with chicken piccata, sushi or a deli platter of patè and cured meats with baguette. (Vic Harradine)
88
Megalomaniac ‘My Way’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (142646) 13.3% alcohol
This is medium-full bodied with fleshy texture, good balance and plenty of tang. Aromas of citrus baking spice and wisps of oak abound. It spreads over the palate creamy smooth and full of flavour delivered on a wash of apple, nectarine and racy lemon curd. Flavours replay on the aftertaste along with wisps of oaky notes and peach skin. Pour with roast chicken pork roast or poached salmon under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Okanagan Valley: White Wine
• Fruit for the following 2015 Culmina Family Estate Winery ‘Dilemma’ Chardonnay was sourced from four-year-old, estate vines grown on Margaret’s Bench. Forty percent of the wine underwent malolactic conversion. All wine was then matured for 9 months before bottling—35% in new French oak barrel, 35% in used, and 30% in stainless steel.
91
Culmina Family Estate Winery ‘Dilemma’ Chardonnay 2015
VQA Okanagan Valley $47.95 (568204) 14.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of burnt butter, baked apple and nutty notes abound on the nose of this full-bodied, generously textured chardonnay. This showcases excellent tang and noticeable minerality. It streaks over the palate with a bracing line of tangy acidity carried on flavours of racy white grapefruit, crisp Granny Smith apple and high-toned saline/minerality. These replay on the monumentally long finish and aftertaste joined by piquant spice and pleasing wisps of oak. Pour alongside cedar-planked, grilled salmon topped with lemon slices, dill and garlic. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
• The release of the following 2016 Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Baco Noir is widely and highly anticipated having developed somewhat of a cult following over the past couple of decades. This 2016 vintage does not disappoint. It was aged 18-plus months in premium American oak barrel.
92
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Baco Noir 2016
VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 13.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, gamy notes and mocha aromas billow from the nose before spilling onto the palate with wild abandon with flavours of black currant jam, ripe black cherry and black licorice coating the palate interwoven with baking spice, kirsch liqueur and balancing tang. This is medium-plus bodied, loaded with value, fully flavoured and generously textured with good balance and a boatload of charm. Pour with wild game, hearty stew and grilled meat—lamb kebabs, sausage, burgers, steak. (Vic Harradine)
92
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Cabernet-Merlot 2012
VQA Short Hills Bench $39.95 (616433) 14.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of baking spice, dark chocolate and espresso roast mingle with black, juicy cherry on the nose of this medium-plus weight, generously textured beauty. It bathes the palate well balanced and elegant with juicy, black briary berry and piquant spice robed in excellent tang bolstered by an underpinning of soft tannin structure. Pour now with grilled rack of lamb or enjoy further development 2019-2022. (Vic Harradine)
89
Megalomaniac ‘Sonofabitch’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment $27.95 (85134) 13.0% alcohol
A quiet nose of mixed spice, red and black berry fruit and charred toast provides segue to this medium-weight, nicely textured pinot. A balanced-on-a-pin river of a delightful mix of red berry tang and sweet, ripe, berry fruit flavour coalesce on the palate persisting through the finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside duck and chicken pot pie or roast fowl. (Vic Harradine)
Okanagan Valley: Red Wine
94
Culmina ‘Hypothesis’ 2013
VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC $47.95 (414243) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of black currant, mineral notes and sweet vanilla mingle with cedar and savory herbs on the nose of this flagship red blend—38% merlot/36% cabernet franc/26% cabernet sauvignon. It cuts a wide swath across the palate that’s fully fruited—bramble berry, cassis and black plum—and all nicely balanced with tangy acidity and soft, ripe tannin galore; these synergies provide refinement and sophistication on the palate and aftertaste. Quite good now, bottle age should be handsomely rewarded. This warrants a multiple purchase pulling corks 2020 and well beyond for optimum enjoyment. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Rosé Wine
88
Flat Rock ‘Pink Twisted’ Rosé 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (39974) 12.5% alcohol
A perfumed bouquet opens this blend of pinot noir, gewürztraminer and riesling with aromas of gardenia, peony, orchard fruit and citrus. Medium-light bodied and slightly off-dry, the palate is crisp and juicy in texture, offering ripe strawberry, peach and lemon flavours. It finishes with a mid-length, mouth-watering citrus tang and calls for fresh spring rolls with a spicy chili sauce. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Hidden Bench ‘Locust Lane’ Rosé 2017
VQA Beamsville Bench $22.95 (68833) 12.5% alcohol
Estate grown, certified organic grapes—93% pinot noir and 7% viognier—were used to produce this pale-salmon hued rosé in the saignée method. Aromas of crushed strawberries, apricot jam, apple blossoms and a mineral note gently rise from the glass. Dry, medium-light bodied and softly textured with lively acidity, cherry, strawberry and blood orange flavours flood the palate and persist through the medium-long finish. Enjoy alongside strawberry/avocado couscous salad. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Thirty Bench ‘Small Lot’ Rosé 2017
VQA Beamsville Bench $29.95 (414227) 13.1% alcohol
Sweet peach, red berry, zesty citrus and subtle floral notes introduce this very-pale coral pink-coloured rosé. The palate is fruity and savoury offering flavours of strawberry, white peach, grapefruit and herbs. Dry, medium-light bodied and well-structured, tangy citrus notes refresh the palate through the lengthy finish. This could stand up to heartier summer dishes; try with grilled salmon filets. (Lisa Isabelle)
88
Wildass Rosé 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (71712) 12.3% alcohol
Red apple and strawberry aromas are joined by hints of lavender and thyme on the nose of this easy-going rosé. Mid weight and well balanced, crisp acidity is balanced with a touch of sweetness on the mid-palate. Orchard fruit and red berry flavours, underscored with notions of savoury herbs, are enjoyed through the pleasing finish. Pair with sushi rolls and wasabi dipping sauce. (Lisa Isabelle)
Okanagan Valley: Rosé Wine
87
Quail’s Gate Rosé 2017
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (275842) 13.5% alcohol
50% gamay, 40% pinot noir and 10% pinot gris, fermented separately, were blended to produce this versatile rosé. The pale-pink colour hints at aromas of strawberry, rhurbarb, tart citrus and orchard blossom. Dry, medium-light bodied with fresh acidity, flavours of strawberry-rhubarb jam, pink grapefruit and a mineral note persist through the mid-length finish. Enjoy with salad Nicoise. (Lisa Isabelle)
California: White Wine
92
McManis Family Vineyards Viognier 2016
River Junction $19.95 (658112) 13.5% alcohol
Honeysuckle, tropical fruit and apple aromas introduce this value-packed viognier with its spice-laden gusher of honey-drizzled guava, a bowl of tropical fruit, citrus notes and no end of deft balance, charm and a lengthy finish of citrus and spice. This is medium bodied with good mouthfeel and a touch of class. Pour on its own as a friendly sipper or alongside a mound of steamed mussels or chicken kebabs. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
88
Ironstone ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2016
Lodi $17.00 (951889) 14.5% alcohol
Lively aromas of piquant spice, herbs and red berry fruit introduce a palate-blanketing stream of grilled savory herbs, sweet milk chocolate and bramble berry jam. This is mid-full bodied with good texture and a lengthy finish and aftertaste of sweet vanilla and hints of mocha. Serve with smoked, grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
93
Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Sonoma County $22.95 (331603) 13.5% alcohol
Charred toast and black currant aromas precede rich, complex and balanced waves of cassis, bramble berry and dark cherry interlaced with fresh mint, savory herbs and oodles of juicy tang. This showcases persistent purity of fruit with good depth, balance and complexity. It finishes with rich fruit and juicy, tangy replays. (Vic Harradine)
92
Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Napa Valley $69.96 (60020) 14.8% alcohol
Aromas of black raspberry, black currant and savory herbs mingle with notions of oaky notes on the nose of this Napa cab. It captures the palate with a creamy smooth flow of black cherry/berry fruit and cassis intertwined with racy tang and piquant spice while underpinned with soft, ripe tannin. This is full bodied and fully textured showcasing deft balance, depth, complexity, purity of fruit and a long dry, mouth-watering finish. When casting bait in these pricey waters, reel in a few of these. (Vic Harradine)
Oregon: Red Wine
91
R. Stuart & Co. ‘Big Fire’ Pinot Noir 2014
Willamette Valley, Oregon $27.95 (54841) 13.0% alcohol
Grilled herbaceous notes and red berry fruit aromas are prelude to a medium-bodied, nicely textured mouthful of excellent Oregon pinot. Crunchy red fruit—currant and pie cherry—with oodles of tang liven up the palate along with savory herbs and fresh strawberry flavour on the back palate and finish. This has good sense of purpose without being linear; it has lots to offer and is pretty good value. Pour with roast chicken or pork fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
87
Fabre Montmayou ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Franc 2015
Mendoza $19.95 (492736) 14.0% alcohol
Herbaceous, spice and cedar aromas make way for a medium-plus bodied cab franc that washes over the palate with a rush of green herbs infusing flavours of dark berry fruit and drying tannin. There’s tomato leaf and grilled herbs on the finish and aftertaste. Give this another year in the cellar or aerate/decant three hours serving with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: White Wine
89
Arboleda ‘Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2016
DO Aconcagua Costa $18.95 (510339) 13.0% alcohol
An intriguing nose of citrus, savory herbs and exotic spice aromas open the door to a value-laden, lime-infused, a-typical sauvignon blanc. It streaks over the palate bristling with verve and tang carried on a laser-like line of lime zest, piquant spice and soft bite of white grapefruit pith. It finishes dry and lip-smacking tangy. A small 10% of this wine was whole-cluster crushed and fermented—and then matured for five months—in French barrique on its fine lees. Give this a go with olive-oiled mesclun under crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
89
La Joya ‘Gran Reserva’ Viognier 2017
DO Colchagua Valley $16.95 (168542) 13.5% alcohol
Spice, honeyed-tropical fruit and peach aromas swirl from this well-paced, well-priced beauty. It bathes the palate with a smorgasbord of flavour—nectarine, ripe pear and pineapple—well-balanced with soft lemon-lime tanginess. This is light-medium bodied with good mouthfeel and lingering, delightful finish. Pour alongside steamed-in-wine clams or mussels. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
87
Antu Syrah 2016
DO Colchagua Valley $17.95 (675371) 14.5% alcohol
This showcases MontGras experimental brand, ‘Antu’, with fruit sourced from 16-year-old vines at 600 M a.b.s.. It blankets the palate with sweet black plum compote and stewed prune flavours interwoven with sweet vanilla and supple tannin. It’s smooth and mellow on the palate with an abundance of sweet, ripe and über-ripe flavours. Pair with smoked and grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce.
91
Concha Y Toro ‘Terrunyo Peumo Vineyard - Block 27’ Carmenère 2016
DO Peumo, Cachapoal Valley $34.95 (562892) 13.5% alcohol
This is smooth and mellow on the palate with lively, fresh fruit flavours nicely matched with delicious tang. A subdued nose of red berry fruit, mixed spice and grilled savory herbs provide segue to a balanced flow of black and red fruits—black currant, black Bing cherry and red currant—covers the palate robed in soft acidity and supple tannin. It finishes with palate-replays along with notions of mocha and sprigs of savory herbs. This is medium-plus bodied with a mid-length finish and aftertaste and plenty to offer red-wine lovers. (Vic Harradine)
88
Echeverría Family ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
DO Curicó Valley, Molina $21.95 (737) 14.0% alcohol
This showcases good depth and complexity with deft fruit and acid in balance. It opens with aromas of spice box, red and dark cherry/berry fruit and wood smoke then spreads over the palate with mid-plus weight and good mouthfeel carried along on a bed of spice-infused, tang-laden flavour with red currant, cranberry and cassis to the fore. The finish ends on a drying note from still-evolving tannin—aerate/decant a couple of hours before service. (Vic Harradine)
88
Santa Carolina ‘Specialities - Dry Farming’ Carignan 2013
DO Cauquenes Valley $18.95 (213520) 14.5% alcohol
As one would expect from the cooler 2013 vintage, the aroma and flavour profile leans toward the savory green herbaceous notes, along with notions of chalky tannin. Red crunchy fruit and savory herb aromas abound. A medium-full bodied wash of pie cherry and passionfruit streak over the palate with laser-like focus interlaced with mint and hints of mocha. It’s quite dry on the finish with touches of still-evolving tannin and herbaceous notes. Pour with grilled lamb and mint jelly. (Vic Harradine)
88
Tabalí ‘Talud’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
DO Maipo Valley $23.95 (513960) 14.0% alcohol
This cool-climate cab opens with sprigs of herbs and red berry fruit aromas preceding a balanced, full-bodied nicely textured wash of black currant and cranberry mingling with menthol notes and piquant spice. These replay on the finish and aftertaste robed in good acidity and underpinned by firm tannin structure. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring with beef kebabs or Moroccan lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
90
Dandelion ‘Lioness of McLaren Vale’ Shiraz 2016
McLaren Vale, South Australia $21.95 (357475) 14.5% alcohol
Dark cherry/berry fruit and mixed spice aromas coalesce on the nose of this full bodied well-textured Aussie shiraz. It showers a rich flow of bramble berry, mulberry, peppery spice and sweet vanilla on the palate persisting from first drop to the balanced, delightful aftertaste. This is good to go now and on to 2026. It’s particularly tasty paired with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
91
Jim Barry ‘The Cover Drive’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Coonawarra, South Australia $19.95 (677476) 13.5% alcohol
This never fails to deliver flavour, balance and very good value. There are aromas of mineral notes and piquant spice galore. It envelops the palate with a full-bodied stream of tang-laden black cherry and juicy black raspberry decorated with white pepper and minty notes. It finishes in a blaze of racy tang, crisp, refreshing and lip-smacking good. The balance, purity of fruit and complexity add to the allure. Pour with burgers, fajitas, grilled sausage or steak. (Vic Harradine)
90
Sister’s Run ‘Old Testament’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Coonawarra, South Australia $16.95 (478271) 14.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance in this Coonawarra cab tips well in your favour. Baking spice, earthy notes and dark berry fruit herald a palate-coating river of tang-laced briary berry and blueberry flavour joined by piquant spice and still-evolving tannin. This is medium-full weight with good texture and a long finish showcasing purity of fruit and plenty of tang and pizzazz. Aerate/decant a couple of hours serving with grilled skirt steak. (Vic Harradine)
89
Thorn-Clarke ‘Terra Barossa’ Shiraz 2016
Barossa, South Australia $17.95 (595306) 14.5% alcohol
Highly perfumed aromas of peppery spice, black plum and black licorice abound. This captures the palate with a medium-full bodied, nicely textured run of juicy mulberry, crunchy red currant and ripe, delectable black berry fruit robed in racy pie cherry tang and supported by a firm tannin base. It finishes with rich, ripe cassis and black currant flavours. Aerate/decant two hours pouring with grilled pepper steak. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Shiraz is from one of Australia’s prominent and premium family wineries, they are a charter member of Australia’s First Families of Wine. Due to trademark restrictions abroad they are known by Wakefield in Canada and other countries, and by their family name, ‘Taylors’ now and for the past three generations in Australia.
95
Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Shiraz 2016
McLaren Vale/Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (377036) 14.5% alcohol
This has excellent depth, complexity and balance throughout. Exotic incense, and red berry fruit aromas precede a glorious wash of tang-laden ambrosia delivered by luscious mouthfuls of ripe mulberry fruit, black cherry, cassis and kirsch liqueur flavour adorned with dark bittersweet chocolate and notes of espresso roast. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a lengthy mouth-watering finish. It’s drinking well now and will to 2025. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
90
Babich ‘Black Label’ Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (9142) 13.0% alcohol
This punches well over its price delivering a crisp refreshing white with laser-like focus and oodles of zest and élan. Intense aromas of gooseberry, citrus and grassy notes peg this as sauvignon blanc from Marlborough. Palate flavours of passionfruit, lemon citrus and minerality persist throughout—delivered with focus and purity of fruit. This is mid-weight with good mouthfeel and clean, crisp and refreshing finish. Pour with grilled calamari, steamed mussels or freshly shucked, briny oysters. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: White Wine
87
Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2017
WO Western Cape $15.95 (126797) 12.5% alcohol
The retail price and price-quality ratio of this wine are very compelling. Gooseberry, citrus and grassy aromas mark this a sauvignon blanc. It’s quite focused, tight and taut, with racy tang from passionfruit, lime zest and grapefruit providing plenty of nerve and verve on the palate along with a welcomed and balancing wash of ripe pineapple and nectarine. It ends on a crisp refreshing note—mouth-watering and lip-smacking good. Pour with pan-seared or steamed seafood, tuna tartare or ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
90
William Fèvre ‘Champs Royaux’ Chablis 2016
AOC Chablis $26.95 (461640) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of lemon zest, grapefruit and white pepper with a subtle floral note introduce this good-value Chablis. Dry, light bodied and mouth-watering, the fresh-tasting palate offers tangy citrus flavours and a grounding mineral undertone through the lengthy finish. Enjoy this classic Chablis with crab cakes, oysters or simply prepared white fish. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Jean-Max Roger ‘Cuvée Genèse’ Sancerre 2016
AOC Sancerre $29.95 (189126) 12.5% alcohol
Green apple and gooseberry aromas adorned with fresh cut grass and a flinty mineral note lift easily from the glass before replaying on the lively palate. This well-balanced sauvignon blanc is dry, medium-light bodied and nicely textured due to time spent on its lees. It finishes medium long with a crisp, green apple aftertaste. Pair with a fresh, summer gazpacho. (Lisa Isabelle)
France: Red Wine
89
Manoir de Mercey ‘Chateaubeau’ Mercurey 2015
AOC Mercurey $31.95 (508002) 12.5% alcohol
Sourced from 48-year-old vines, it matured 12-14 months in cask, 25% new. Aromas of dark berry fruit and spice-infused beetroot waft easily from the glass. It showers the palate with a tang-laden river of sour cherry, vanillin and juicy red plum. This is medium weight with decent texture and a drying finish. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring alongside cassoulet or grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
90
Roger & Didier Raimbault Sancerre Rouge 2015
AOC Sancerre $31.95 (446401) 13.0% alcohol
Very pale ruby in colour, this pinot noir from the Loire Valley offers red cherry-berry aromas entwined with notions of dry leaves and spice. Subtle flavours on the palate hint at raspberry and strawberry mingling with a savoury mineral note. It’s dry, medium-light bodied with barely discernable tannin and finishes mid-length, crisp and refreshing. Enjoy as an aperitif with charcuterie. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
M. Chapoutier ‘Les Vignes de Bila-Haut’ Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2016
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages $15.95 (168716) 14.5% alcohol
Concentrated aromas of blackberry preserves and fresh strawberries layered with notions of violet, black pepper and leather waft from the glass of this well-priced blend of syrah, grenache and carignan. Dry, full bodied and well balanced with uplifting acidity and firm tannins, dark fruit flavours dominate the palate while a subtle earthy note lasts into the long finish. This offers great value—stock up to enjoy during summer barbeque season. (Lisa Isabelle)
France: Rosé Wine
89
Gérard Bertrand ‘Perles de Grenache’ Rosé 2017
IGP Pays D’Oc $18.95 (556209) 12.0% alcohol
Barely pink-hued in the glass it throws off alluring aromas of rose petals, strawberry and fragrant, savoury herb. A spice- and tang-infused tang blankets the palate and dazzles the senses as ruby red grapefruit, sharp spice and saline minerality coalesce on the crisp, clean and refreshing finish and aftertaste. This is a match made in heaven with skillet-seared salmon under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon, and excellent with grilled calamari or steamed clams. (Vic Harradine)
89
Mimi en Provence ‘Grande Réserve’ Rosé 2017
AOP Côtes de Provence $18.95 (452573) 13.0% alcohol
Pretty floral notes and red fruit aromas abound on the nose of this very pale salmon-hued rosé—red currants, strawberries and raspberries—replaying on the tangy palate and persisting through the lengthy finish. Dry, medium-light bodied, clean and fresh textured, this versatile wine can be enjoyed on its own or with an array of light, summer fare. (Lisa Isabelle)
Italy: White Wine
88
Schreckbichl Colterenzio Pinot Grigio 2016
DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige $20.95 (293399) 14.0% alcohol
Hailing from the hills of North-eastern Italy, this concentrated pinot grigio was fermented in stainless steel and spent several months on its lees before bottling. Abundant aromas of yellow apple, pineapple, lemon and a mineral note on the nose segue to flavours of sweet citrus and ripe orchard fruit on the palate. Dry, medium-light bodied, this well-balanced white finishes with a lengthy fruit-driven finish and would pair nicely with a mixed greens salad topped with grilled prawns. (Lisa Isabelle)
Italy: Red Wine
90
Tornatore Nerello Mascalese/Nerello Cappuccio 2015
DOC Etna Rosso $22.95 (487090) 14.0% alcohol
Don’t let the pale ruby colour of this wine mislead you—this medium-bodied blend of indigenous grapes from the volcanic soils of Mount Etna packs some weight. The nose offers red fruit aromas adorned with exotic spice, lavender, earth and mineral notes while a slight balsamic note adds interest. Dry, with fresh acidity and drying tannins, crunchy cherry and red plum flavours wash over the palate grounded by a vein of minerality through the medium-long finish. Enjoy with a hearty meat-based tomato sauce over pasta. (Lisa Isabelle)
• The following 2009 Infinity is a ‘Bordeaux blend’ of grape varieties—35% merlot/25% cabernet sauvignon—as well as 20% sangiovese/20% alicante bouschet that was aged two years in French oak casks—adding complexity—and three years in small stainless tanks before bottling—preserving freshness.
92
Infinity 2009
IGT Toscana $25.95 (540906)
This is dark and brooding in the glass, fully flavoured on the palate, balanced and beautiful on the finish and aftertaste. High-toned aromas of cedar, red berry fruit and graphite abound on the nose. A lively spice-laden flow of red cherry and red currant mingling with ripe black raspberry and cassis blanket the palate decorated with grilled savory herbs and black licorice, This is medium-full bodied with good mouth feel, persistent purity of fruit, complexity and a long, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
90
San Felice ‘Il Grigio’ Chianti Classico Reserva 2014
DOCG Chianti Classico $28.95 (716266) 13.0% alcohol
From the heart of the Chianti region, this wine spent 24 months in oak and 12 months in bottle before release. It balances pure fruit aromas and flavours of cherry and red currant with savoury notes of spice, earth, tea and violet. Medium-full bodied, it’s well-structured with mouth-watering acidity and a long, dry finish. Pair with grilled bison medallions. (Lisa Isabelle)
Portugal: White Wine
89
Muralhas de Monção Vinho Verde 2016
DOC Monção e Melgaço $15.95 (80374) 12.5% alcohol
This value-laden, white blend—Alvarinho and Trajadura—is well worth a multiple purchase for consuming now and over the next 12 months. Lemon-lime aromas on the nose, it dishes up a soft crowd-friendly river of lemon pudding and Key lime pie infused with minerality and pit fruit then framed by good racy tang. This is straightforward and the perfect dance partner for seafood or most anything else you’re drinking now with dry riesling or sauvignon blanc. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
• The following 2014 Senorio de Barahonda ‘Campo Arriba’ Monastrell/Syrah/Tintorera 2014 is both delicious and an interesting blend. While Monastrell is more commonly known as Mourvèdre, Tintorera is known as Garnacha Tintorera and Alicante Bouschet with none being all that well known. However, Tintorera, Garnacha Tintorera or Alicante Bouschet—take your pick of names, is one of a couple of dozen ‘teinturier’ wine grapes—the flesh and juice from the grapes is red, whereas with the vast majority of red grapes—cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah et al—the flesh and juice is white with colour being extracted from skins during the winemaking process.
92
Senorio de Barahonda ‘Campo Arriba’ Monastrell/Syrah/Tintorera 2014
DO Yecla $17.95 (511519) 14.5% alcohol
Dark purple/black, almost opaque, this hedonistic red blend dishes up aromas of mixed spice and chalky mineral notes before releasing a flavourful mouthful of blue and black fruit—dark cherry, blueberry and bramble berry jam—intertwined with piquant spice, vanilla and mixed herbs, This is medium-plus weight with good texture and lingering, ripe, sweet aftertaste. It’s approachable now and particularly crowd-friendly. (Vic Harradine)
89
Casa Manila ‘Cachito Mio Toro’ 2014
DO Toro $17.95 (546028) 14.5% alcohol
This is 100% Tinta de Toro—aka Tempranillo—sourced from vines over 50 years old while wine was aged eight months in 80% American/20% French oak barrique. Highly perfumed aromas of rosewood and exotic spice herald an intense, piquant spice-infused wash of red currant and cranberry intertwined with ripe black currant and wisps of maraschino cherry on the back palate. It finishes dry and balanced with wisps of manageable tannin—aerate-decant for two hours before serving with prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: July 7, 2018
• Fruit for the following 2016 Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay was hand-harvested from 2 vineyards—75% South Clos/25% Churchside sourced from low-yielding, hand harvested vines, barrel fermented and matured in French oak, only 10% new. Twist caps now to 2022.
91
Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 (148866) 13.3% alcohol
Baked custard, an oaky note or two and exotic spice aromas provide segue to a medium-weight, beautifully textured stream of pure ambrosia with apple pie spice, lemon curd and orchard fruit flavours—yellow peach, white nectarine and ripe pear—gliding over the palate mellow and smooth. It finishes with replays adorned with ginger snap and lip-smacking tang and acidity. Gorgeous now, will improve over the short term and pours well with roast chicken or pork, or duck confit. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: September 15, 2018
92
Closson Chase ‘K.J. Watson Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2017
VQA Four Mile Creek $22.95 (469445) 12.0% alcohol
Honey-dipped pear, apricot and exotic spice aromas are precursors to a luscious balanced and beautiful gusher of racy lemon curd and pineapple interwoven with tingly spice on the palate and a dry, lip-smacking finish. This is medium weight and unoaked with plenty of creamy-smooth mouthfeel and mouth-watering, mineral-laced aftertaste; it’s crisp, clean and refreshing. Pour with prawn ceviche or mussels steamed in white wine and leeks. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: October 2018
89
Featherstone ‘Premium Cuvée Joy’ Rosé 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (450700) 12.5% alcohol
For ease of opening, this is sealed under crown cap. This méthode traditionelle, 100% pinot noir was hand harvested, whole-cluster pressed and rested on its lees for 12 months before disgorgement. It bubbles over with frothy mousse and a delightful array of barely off-dry palate flavours with bright red currant, ripe strawberry and oodles of tang to the fore. It’s medium weight and showcases a monumentally lengthy lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour with an assortment of appetizers on the patio. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: TBD, 2018
• The following méthode traditionelle, vintage-dated, 2013 Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ is named for family matriarch Catherine Smith—Henry of Pelham’s wife. It was hand harvested, bunch selected from 100% chardonnay, whole-cluster pressed, 20% barrel fermented, maturing more than four years in bottle on its lees before disgorgement.
93
Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ 2013
VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (315200) 12.5% alcohol
As always, one of the top traditional-method, vintage-dated sparkling wines on the market, regardless of country of origin. Aromas of leesy notes, buttered toast and flinty minerality make way for a profusion of fine-bead bubbles that endlessly wind their way to the top of your glass. This has complexity, purity of fruit, good tension, is balanced on a pin with a painter’s palette of lively flavour—a surge of racy lemon and lime tang adorned with white nectarine, nutty and mineral notes dazzle the palate infusing the lingering finish. This is classy, elegant and wired for sipping on its own for two or with food when entertaining. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
• The following über-popular 2017 Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling gains it’s moniker from the sheep that are kept to nibble leaves, exposing fruit to sunlight as Featherstone farms sustainably. The hand-picked, hand-sorted fruit was whole-bunch pressed transferred to stainless steel tanks, allowed to settle 36 hours then racked off its gross lees. By fall, 2018, this will be found more consistently in more LCBO stores as it moves to becoming a Vintages Essentials wine, always found in select stores.
91
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (80234) 10.0% alcohol
Whiffs of petrol joined by citrus and mineral notes dominate aromas on the nose of this perennial favourite. It’s always marked by low alcohol, high acidity and high residual sugar balancing each other in a crescendo of pure ambrosia. It bathes the palate with a fully textured flow of green apple, ripe pear and lime cordial. It’s medium bodied and slightly off-dry with a solid line of nerve and verve acidity running from twist top to final drop. Pour with a deli board or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Featherstone Cabernet Franc is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores.
89
Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (64618) 13.0% alcohol
Earthy notes, graphite and medicinal cherry aromas abound. A lively fruit-forward shower of dark Bing cherry, cassis and dark bramble berry intertwine with tart tang and ripe tannin on the palate, infusing the finish and aftertaste. This is medium bodied with good texture and framed by good acidity. Pour after a two-hour aeration/decant alongside beef fajitas, red pizza or grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 J. Lohr ‘October Night’ Chardonnay was hand-harvested at night, whole-cluster pressed, barrel fermented 15 days, underwent full malolactic conversion and weekly lees stirring for 10 months in tight-grain and very tight-grain French oak barrel, 50% new. Much of this, 56%, was sourced from Dijon clone 809, also known as the highly aromatic, ‘Musqué’ clone.
93
J. Lohr ‘October Night’ Chardonnay 2015
Arroyo Seco, Monterey County $34.95 (225375) 14.9% alcohol
Baking spice, nutty notes, floral and ripe apple aromas introduce a medium-plus bodied fully textured, rich and luscious flow of apple pie, ginger snap, mixed spice and bosc pear. This is creamy smooth on the palate with still-evolving oaky notes, balance and a long, long finish. The aftertaste if flecked with blood orange and piquant spice; this absolutely delectable. (Vic Harradine)
• Fruit for the following 2016 Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Chardonnay was sourced from 100% low-yielding chardonnay from several estate vineyards with 90% barrel fermented in French oak.
90
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Short Hills Bench $21.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol
This was barrel fermented and aged 8 months in primarily French oak barrel. Toasty notes, baking spice and ripe apple aromas provide segue for a lively line of bitter/sweet tang interlaced with ripe orchard fruit, racy lemon and notions of flinty minerality. It’s nicely textured with good weight, depth and lengthy finish and aftertaste, Pour alongside pan-seared fish or supermarket rotisserie chicken with home-baked oven fries. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2014 Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Chardonnay is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select LCBO stores.
89
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (89037) 13.0% alcohol
High-toned aromas of nutmeg and ginger are interwoven with ripe apple and pear. Aromas replay on the palate with the addition of oaky bits and piquant spice. This was barrel fermented by native yeasts then barrel matured, 20% new, for 12 months. It’s medium-plus weight with smooth texture and a long, long finish and aftertaste—crisp and mouth-watering. Give this a go with roast chicken or a pork roast. (Vic Harradine)
88
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (172643) 12.0% alcohol
This salmon-pink hued blend—85% pinot noir/9% pinot gris/3% gamay/3% cabernet franc—presents delicate aromas of floral notes, spice and strawberry. Medium bodied with good texture, it dishes up a tang-laced river of strawberry/rhubarb flavour adorned with ruby red grapefruit and wisps of cranberry cordial. It really shines with ceviche, freshly shucked oysters or pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine
• In its relatively short wine life, the following 2016 Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon has been awarded nine Gold medals, one double Gold and a swag of Silver and Bronze in national and international competitions.
88
Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Clare Valley, Australia $19.95 (744235) 14.0% alcohol
Ripe and uber-ripe dark fruit aromas—mulberry and black currant dominate the nose with hints of spice and espresso roast. It floods the palate with flavours of dark bittersweet chocolate and mint robed in black plum compote, blackberry jam and sweet kirsch liqueur. It finishes long and luscious with notions of cherry clafoutie and piquant spice. Pour with grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
• Pasqua recently lowered the yield of their grapes and tightened the area from where they source the following 2017 Pinot Grigio della Venezie in order to meet stringent DOC guidelines—this wine reflects it in the most positive ways. While $12.25 now, it will be increasing slightly—when purchasing, be certain to check the label and pick up the 2017.
87
Pasqua Pinot Grigio della Venezie 2017
DOC Pinot Grigio della Venezie $12.25 (213496) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of honeysuckle, nutty notes and orchard fruit swirl from the glass. It bathes the palate with zippy mouthfuls of flavour with lime cordial and Granny Smith apple predominant. It finishes clean and crisp with easy pairings of fish and seafood, salads with olive oil and vinegar dressing or simply sip on its own. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Rosehall Run ‘Defiant’ Pinot Noir was sourced from 50% Prince Edward County and 50% Niagara maturing primarily in French oak barrel.
90
Rosehall Run ‘Defiant’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $19.95 (307769) 12.3% alcohol
There’s very good value here. Smoke/oak and cola aromas stream from the glass. It envelops the palate with piquant spice and delectable tang carried on the crest of a river of dark bramble berry, sour cherry and passionfruit intertwined with grilled savoury herbs and wisps of oak. This is nicely balanced with medium weight, good mouthfeel, depth and plenty of oomph with a dry, lingering finish and aftertaste. Pour with roasts, stew and fowl. (Vic Harradine)
87
Tawse Sparkling Apple Cider
$3.25 (569350) 473 mL can 5% alcohol
This has lightly charged effervescence, is delicately flavoured and low alcohol. It was produced using 100% Ontario-grown apples—McIntosh, Crispin, Ambrosia, Spy, Ida Red, Gala. It spreads over the palate with ripe apple and baked apple pie flavour and persists through the lingering finish and aftertaste; it’s a friendly, barely off-dry sipper, smooth and mellow. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
• Order the following by the case for daily office, home or restaurant delivery direct from the winery, along with others in the previous June 3 newsletter, either by using this link Closson Chase, by phone 1.888.201.2300 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or pick them up from the winery 629 Closson Road, Hillier, Ontario K0K 2J0 – it’s an easy 2 or so hour drive, or less, from the GTA or Ottawa and environs - Here’s a map.
• The following 2016 Closson Chase ‘Churchside’ Pinot Noir was sourced 100% from this vineyard from hand-picked fruit and low-yielding vines – 1.3 tonnes/acre. It was fermented in wood fermenters and matured in French oak barrel, 20% new.
92
Closson Chase ‘Churchside’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Prince Edward County $39.95 12.5% alcohol
Spirited aromas of exotic incense, cola, red cherry and slate/minerality provide segue to a lightly hued, lightly textured stream of absolute ambrosia showcasing persistent purity of fruit, deft balance, finesse and elegance. Palate flavours of ripe, juicy red fruit—raspberry, cranberry, plum—intertwine with spice and mouth-watering acidity. This adds up to more than the sum of its parts and it’s seriously delicious. (Vic Harradine)
• This is the first vintage that the following ‘South Clos’ pinot noir has been bottled on its own – hats off to winemaker, Keith Tyers, for this excellent first bottling. All fruit was treated exactly as the above ‘Churchside’ pinot including harvest and bottling dates with the only difference being fruit was sourced from these two separate estate vineyards at Closson Chase. Interested in seeing and hearing Keith share his outlook on making wine in general and Prince Edward County specifically? Keith shares that with you here.
91
Closson Chase ‘South Clos’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Prince Edward County $44.95 12.3% alcohol
This is a lovely pinot with everything in sync—delicate aromas of beetroot, spice and black plum set the table for a smorgasbord of flavours. Tangy cranberry, strawberry/rhubarb pie and ripe juicy cherry envelop the palate interlaced with piquant spice and wisps of soft tannin. It’s medium bodied with very good mouthfeel and near-perfect balance throughout. It pours well on its own and has the oomph to pour with hearty stews and grilled red meats such as beef tenderloin and venison. (Vic Harradine)
• Order the following wine by the case for delivery to home, office or restaurant in Ontario online from Featherstone Estate Winery or pick up a bottle or case at the winery at 3678 Victoria Ave, Vineland, ON. Here’s a map.
89
Featherstone ‘Premium Cuvée Joy’ Rosé 2016
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 12.5% alcohol
For ease of opening, this is sealed under crown cap. This méthode traditionelle, 100% pinot noir was hand harvested, whole-cluster pressed and rested on its lees for 12 months before disgorgement. It bubbles over with frothy mousse and a delightful array of barely off-dry palate flavours with bright red currant, ripe strawberry and oodles of tang to the fore. It’s medium weight and showcases a monumentally lengthy lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour with an assortment of appetizers on the patio. (Vic Harradine)
• Order the following by the case for daily office, home or restaurant delivery direct from the winery, along with others in the previous June 3 newsletter, using this link - Rosehall Run - or pick it up from the cellar door at on your next visit to the winery 1243 Greer Rd, Wellington, Ontario K0K 3L0 in Prince Edward County – it’s an easy two-hour drive, or less, from the GTA or Ottawa via the 401 - Here’s a map.
• Fruit for the following 2016 Rosehall Run ‘Estate – Hungry Point’ Pinot Noir was sourced from 12 and 13-year-old, dry-farmed vines with Dijon numbered clones - 115, 667, 777, 114, 459, 828. After pre-ferment maceration in open- and closed-top fermenters using punch downs and pump overs respectively, it matured in 80% seasoned/20% new French oak barrel and was recently bottled with minimal filtration and no fining.
92
Rosehall Run ‘Estate – Hungry Point’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $24.95 12.0% alcohol
This showcases superb value, complexity, low alcohol, purity of fruit, near-perfect balance of sweet and tang flavours and a lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste. Floral notes, piquant spice and berry fruit aromas precede a balanced and beautiful mouthful of spice-infused flavour with ripe red raspberry, strawberry and crunchy pie cherry melding with hints of minerality. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a lip-smacking finish. Grand to sip on its own, it pours well with duck confit, coq au vin or prawn and chorizo paella. Kudos to winemaker Dan Sullivan and his magic touch. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Rosehall Run ‘Rosehall Vineyard – JCR’ Pinot Noir was sourced from 14- to 15-year-old vines of predominantly Dijon numbered clone 115 with smatterings of 667, 777, 828. Matured in 265 L French oak hogsheads, approx. 60% new, for 18 months on fine lees with no racking, the final selection was made from the top barrels that were bottled with no fining and minimum handling.
91
Rosehall Run ‘Rosehall Vineyard – JCR’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Prince Edward County $39.95 12.3% alcohol
Beguiling aromas of rose petal, cherry pastille and baking spice herald a drying swath of pie cherry, black currant and passionfruit interwoven with delightful cranberry tang, This is underpinned by fine-grained, ripe tannin and wisps of minerality. This is medium-plus weight with good texture, complexity, depth and focus throughout. Palate flavours replay on the dry finish and aftertaste along with oaky notes and wisps of tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before pairing with pork roast, grilled, smoked duck breast or roast Cornish game hen. (Vic Harradine)
• The following two wines from Redstone Winery and the following Tawse wines can all be purchased through Tawse Winery by the case for daily home, office or restaurant delivery online at Tawse Winery, by email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or by phone +1 (905) 562 9500 or for pick up by the bottle or case at the winery 3955 Cherry Ave, Vineland ON. Here’s a map.
90
Redstone ‘Limestone Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $24.95 12.0% alcohol
Sandalwood, lime and mineral notes abound on the nose of this medium-weight, generously textured riesling. It coats the palate with grapefruit pith, bracing lime tang and nuances of oak; this was aged eight months in French oak barrels. The finish reveals more flinty minerality while the aftertaste showcases a crisp, clean and refreshing character. Pour alongside a deli platter, crab cakes or fish tacos. (Vic Harradine)
91
Redstone ‘Redfoot Vineyard’ Viognier 2016
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $22.95 13.0% alcohol
Honeysuckle and oaky aromas provide segue to a medium-full bodied, fully textured mouthful of honey-drizzled lemon and lime intertwined with ripe apricot, ginger snap and notes of buttered toast; this was aged eight months in French oak barrels. This dishes up purity of fruit, deft balance, depth, complexity elegance and charm. Pour with pan-seared pork chops and apple sauce or chicken pot pie. (Vic Harradine)
90
Tawse ‘Quarry Road Vineyard’ Rosé 2017
VQA Vinemount Ridge $28.15 11.0% alcohol
Pale-pink hued, this method saignée—from free-run juice—organic/biodynamic, 100% pinot noir wafts easily from the glass with perfumed aromas of floral and citrus notes. It glides over the palate riding a crest of tang-laden flavour—red grapefruit and strawberry with flinty/saline minerality. This is medium weight with good mouth feel and a long finish that’s dry and mouth-watering good. Pour alongside fish, shellfish or sushi. (Vic Harradine)
89
Tawse ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Apple, white peach, struck-flint notes and wisps of tropical fruit aromas spin from this lively and lean chardonnay. A bracing line of tang streaks across the palate borne on a laser-like line of lime, minerality, white grapefruit and pineapple. It’s medium weight on the palate with a dry, mouth-watering, tang-laced finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside pan-seared fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon or mussels steamed in white wine, garlic and leeks. (Vic Harradine)
90
Tawse ‘Cuddy by Tawse – Spark – Limestone Ridge Vineyard’ Non-Vintage
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $24.95 12.0% alcohol
This was made with 100% organic, riesling grapes. Bright and lively aromas and flavours coalesce on the nose and palate with lime cordial, slate/mineral notes and orchard fruit—green apple, yellow plum and pear—all making their debut on centre stage. This showcases a solid line of acidity from cork pop to last drop with citrus fruit flavour to the fore along with a dry, lengthy finish. Pour with steamed clams, lemon chicken or scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic, Lisa, Louise