winecurrent.com

August 5, 2006 Vintages Release


An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

This release starts with a parcel of organic wines and then branches out to a country and regional approach.

Organic

France (Bordeaux): red


**** drink or cellar
Château Chavrignac Rouge 2004
AOC Bordeaux $15.95 (002436)
A blend of two-thirds Merlot and Cabernet Franc, a quarter Cabernet Sauvignon and a pinch of Malbec, this is just a well-made Bordeaux at a very good price. Look for solid fruit (black cherry and plum) with spicy and earthy notes, medium body and firm but easily managed tannins. Drink it now with a red meat dish or set a few bottles aside for three or four years. (RP)

France (Provence): rosé

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Terres Blanches Rosé 2005
AOC Les Baux de Provence $15.95 (684993)
This rosé makes a lovely summer sipper or a successful partner to a spicy beef salad. It's just off-dry and delivers aromas and bright flavours of red fruit and berries. It's balanced, it's crisp, and if you're looking for organic, it's that, too. (RP)

Spain (Penedès): red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Albet I Noya "Lignum" Negre 2003
DO Penedès $15.95 (001313)
A well-made medium-bodied red that gives solid flavours of dark fruit (cherry, plum) with attractive spicy notes. The tannins are quite firm still and you might want to hold it for two or three years, but you can also enjoy it now with red meat grilled rare to medium-rare. (RP)

Non organic

Fortified wine

****1/2 drink now
Manual D. Pocas Colheita Port 1988
DO Douro $29.95 (581140)
Port might evoke images of a roaring winter fire, but it's much more versatile than that. Chill it very slightly and pair it with roasted nuts or, as the Vintages catalogue suggests, a summer berry/fruit flan, as long as it's rich and sweet-which is what this Port is. You'll find it's concentrated, dense and complex, with flavours that range from dried fruit to bitter orange peel. If you can't make the mental stretch to drinking Port in summer, buy a bottle or two anyway. It's a great price and roaring winter fires are only five months off. (RP)

California: red

**** drink or cellar
Robert Hall "Rhone de Robles" 2003
Central Coast $29.95 (687517)
Quickly, tell me all you know about Counoise (Coon-wahz) one of 3 grapes (Syrah, Grenache, Counoise) in this delightful red blend. It is highly prized as a partner to Syrah in Châteauneuf-du-pape blends. A perfumed and spicy nose drifts off this hedonistic, medium-bodied gem. Gobs of sweet cherry and black plum flavours are neatly played off ripe tannins and oaky nuances. The lengthy finish echoes the ripe fruit flavours. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Robert Hall Syrah 2003
Paso Robles $29.95 (687509)
Structure and power exude from this medium to full-bodied ripper. Sweet black berry fruit, tar and licorice flavours explode on the palate while the finish is spice laden, tangy, lengthy and just plain delicious. Has enough grip and verve to warrant medium term cellaring. Pour this with grilled rack of lamb slathered in cracked black pepper and garlic. Drink now to 2012. (VH)

Argentina: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Del Fin del Mundo Malbec 2004
Patagonia $12.95 (681197)
This is a terrific bargain, and worth stocking up on if your summer diet includes a lot of grilled red meat-the staple of the Argentinean diet. The fruit is ripe and concentrated, with black cherry and berry to the fore. It's well balanced with good tannic grip, and the finish is long, long, long. Drink it this summer and over the next two or three. (RP)

Chile: white

**** drink or cellar
Cono Sur "Single Vineyard Visión" Sauvignon Blanc 2005
DO Casablanca Valley $14.95 (684522)
Look to Chile's Casablanca Valley for marvellous Sauvignon Blancs, like this single vineyard example from the Loma Roja Vineyard. The cooling winds off the Pacific give the grapes a good level of acidity and the relatively late harvest in the region allows them to develop rich flavours. The winning combination is in this screwcap-sealed bottle, which delivers crisp raciness with concentrated grassy, grapefruit and lemon-lime flavours. It's finely balanced and great value. Pair it with grilled seafood or dense white fish with a squeeze of lemon. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Viña La Rosa "La Capitana" Chardonnay 2004
DO Cachapoal Valley $13.95 (685834)
And yet another reason to look to Chile for top shelf wine at bargain basement prices. Cachapoal Valley, with its warmer climate, is better known for full-bodied reds, pity! Sweet and spicy baked apple pie aromatics form the beguiling nose on this medium-bodied beauty. Huge tropical fruit flavours attack the palate while there is enough tang and structure to give it good balance. The finish is plump and lengthy. Pick up a case then enjoy with all manner of grilled chicken, veal and fish. (VH)

Chile: red

****1/2 drink now
Cono Sur "Visión" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
DO Maipo Valley $17.95 (976381)
This is very good quality and excellent value. The complex fruit flavours (black fruit and berries with notes of spice) are concentrated and well-focused, the ripe tannins are firm, and the balance is excellent and food-friendly. This is a natural for grilled red meat, whether it's lamb or beef. (RP)

Australia: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domain Day Riesling 2004
Mt. Crawford, South Australia $18.95 (685768)
This is an "In-Store Discovery" not listed in the catalogue, but seek it out if you can. It's a luscious off-dry Riesling with gorgeous aromas of petrol, peach and tropical fruit. They all replay in the flavours, where they're joined by brisk acidity in a near-perfect balance. Enjoy this with a rich dish like seared scallops. (RP)

Australia: red

**** drink or cellar
Annvers Shiraz 2002
McLaren Vale, South Australia $27.95 (598862)
A big, fine Shiraz with loads of sweet dark fruit flavours that stay this side of jammy. Look for back berries and tree fruit with notes of coffee and spice, and easy-going tannins. At nearly 15%, the alcohol is high, but it's not perceptible. Pair this with well-seasoned, grilled lamb chops. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Beelgara Estate "The Gun Shearer" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Coonawarra, South Australia $17.95 (684167)
This is a well-priced Coonawarra Cab that delivers rich, dense, dark fruit and berry flavours. It's soft textured and well structured and has ripe, drying tannins. Pair it with richly-flavoured red meat dishes. (RP)

New Zealand: white

**** drink or cellar
Allan Scott Chardonnay 2004
Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (694836)
There's a lot more than Sauvignon Blanc successfully growing in Marlborough, as this quite stylish Chardonnay shows. Look for focused peach and tropical fruit with notes of toasty oak, all delivered with a smooth, almost creamy texture and a good finish of bright tropical fruit. You can cellar it four or five years or drink it now with grilled pork tenderloin stuffed with apricots and prunes. (RP)

New Zealand: red

***1/2 drink now
Framingham Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough, South Island $28.95 (699322)
This is a solid Pinot with good typicity and all critical elements in careful balance. It is wisely sealed under screw cap to keep it this way. You will find spicy currants and dried berry fruit on the nose and in the well textured flavours. The sweet berry and underbrush finish has good verve and is pleasingly long. It would be divine poured alongside smoked duck breasts over mesculan greens drizzled with light raspberry vinaigrette. (VH)

France: white

Alsace

**** drink now
André Blanck (Tokay) Pinot Gris Clos Schwendi 2004
AOC Alsace $17.95 (686311)
Gorgeous sweet apple and Bosc pear aromas form the lifted nose while the medium-textured mouth feel, almost creamy, delivers layers of tropical fruit (peach and nectarine) flavours. There is deft balance here with the powerful, sweet fruit flavours nicely juxtaposed to a lovely spine of verve and tang. The finish is clean, dry and lengthy. Match to roast chicken stuffed with a dried fruit dressing. (VH)

Bordeaux

***1/2 drink now
Château Reynon Sauvignon Blanc 2004
AOC Bordeaux $17.95 (525220)
Has all the elements of a Kiwi SB, without pronounced acidity. Grassy and herbaceous on the nose, the flavour profile includes mineral, citrus and apple. It is medium-bodied and offers a zippy clean finish that would suggest a lovely pairing with greens dotted with crumbled, grilled chèvre. (VH)

Loire

***1/2 drink now
Lacheteau "Les Loges" Vouvray 2004
AOC Loire $13.95 (525105)
The lifted nose offers honeycomb, toast and pit fruit aromatics. The candy sweet flavours include spiced apple compote and pear. This is medium-bodied with a lengthy rich and unctuous finish. I found this is a tad sweeter than 'off dry' and it would be well suited to fruit (apple, pear or citrus) desserts. (VH)

Midi

**** drink now
Terre à Verre, "Les Roches" Picpoul de Pinet 2005
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $14.95 (525444)
Vanilla and tropical fruit aromas greet the lucky imbiber. More tropical fruit (pineapple, peaches and spiced yellow plum) flavours appear in the medium weight, creamy frame. The pleasant finish, while not lengthy, offers more of the same with a generous dash of tang. This would pour proud beside grilled and herbed chicken strips. (VH)

France: red

Bordeaux


****1/2 cellar two glasses
Château Potensac 2003
AOC Médoc, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel $35.95 (594747/587279)
This is an excellent candidate for cellaring up to ten years. From the hot 2003 vintage that intensified the fruit, it delivers concentrated flavours of sweet fruit and berries (cherry, cassis, plum) with notes of spice, pepper and coffee. It's an elegant wine with firm tannins that are best left to integrate. When it's ready, pair it with a well-seasoned, grilled rack of lamb. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Château Saint-Hilaire 2003
AOC Médoc, Cru Bourgeois $21.95/750 ml (002568) or $12.95/375ml (002550)
Expect solid fruit flavours from this well-priced Bordeaux. It's ready for drinking now and gives you a good juicy texture with flavours of sweet berries and dark red fruit. Nicely balanced, it goes well with red meat dishes. (RP)

Midi

**** drink or cellar
Château la Bouriette 2001
AOC Cabardès $15.95 (654582)
The ubiquitous Brothers Lurton have fashioned another winner, this time from the south of France. Spice box, earth and berry aromas are a lovely segue to this medium-bodied extremely well balanced red. Gorgeous sweet berry fruit flavours are the perfect foil to a dollop of spiced sour cherries that provide interest and keep it from jammy. The long and balanced finish cries out for a rich tomato-based pasta dish. (VH)

Rhône

****1/2 cellar
Cuvée du Vatican 2003
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $38.95 (719120)
This red blend (70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Carignan) is outstanding. The first two grapes are considered perfect blending partners and this wine supports that. Smoke, oak and rich, sweet berry fruit blow off the lifted nose. The gobs of ripe black fruit flavours are still quite tightly wound up with noticeable tannin in need of some ageing. The black sweet fruit flavours carry over to the finish along with good grip and balancing acidity. Drink 2010 to 2020. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine des Coteaux de Travers Cairanne 2004
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône Villages, Cairanne $17.95 (626648)
This is a hedonistic fruit-forward red with considerable tannin incorporated into its structure. There is a mid-palate core of sweet black cherry and black raspberry flavours that are rich and jammy. It is medium-bodied and offers a finish that is medium in length, but long on sweet, juicy fruit. Will drink well from now to 2012. (VH)

Germany: white

**** drink now
Königschaffhauser Pinot Gris Trocken 2004
QbA Baden $13.95 (597500)
A rich, complex Pinot Gris that delivers layers of tropical fruit and the marked flavour of feijoa (unknown to most Canadians, so it's a pretty useless descriptor), along with notes of dark honey. Well-balanced and nicely-structured, it goes well with grilled chicken breast or pork tenderloin with a tropical fruit salsa. (RP)

Italy: white

Lombardy

***1/2 drink now
"Casa Fosca" Verdicchio di Matelica "Sotto le Querce" 2005
DOC Marche $14.95 (531723)
An interesting and lifted nose of quince jelly and apple compote drifts from the glass of this medium-bodied white. The flavour profile offers intense spice box, green apple and a mélange of tropical fruit. The medium length finish is dry and crisp. Would be nicely paired to tzatziky and German pumpernickel. (VH)

Italy: red

Basilicata

**** cellar
D'Angelo "Canneto" 2001
IGT Basilicata $22.95 (739185)
Aglianico, aka "The Barolo of the south," is typically powerful, tannic and high in acidity. This southern Italian wine scores highly on all points. Spiced plum and cherry aromas lead to this robust red that will certainly separate the women from the girls. You will enjoy tart red cherry flavours and a serious tannic structure. The finish is lengthy, grippy and ends with a zesty bite. Drink 2010 to 2018 with venison or elk. (VH)

Tuscany

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sensi "Mantello" Sangiovese/Syrah 2000
IGT Toscana $25.95 (683706)
Oak and smoke aromas greet the fortunate taster of this opulent, full-bodied gem. The generous ladles of rich black fruit flavours are underpinned by a ripe but perceptible tannin structure. The lengthy finish is marked by black bramble berry flavours and balancing verve. It's ready to go now and will still be drinking beautifully in 2012. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
"Val di Suga" Brunello di Montalcino 2000
DOCG Toscana $24.95/375 mL (687244) or $45.95/750 mL (713719)
This Tuscan red (Sangiovese Grosso is the grape) is huge and powerful on the palate. You will find spice and herbs along with prunes and currants on the nose with black licorice, raisins and black ripe fruit (plum and cherry) flavours. It is well balanced with ripe supple tannins and good acidity. This stunner is pricey, but still offers good value. It will drink beautifully for the next decade. Pair with grilled and garlicked back ribs. (VH)

Portugal: white

***1/2 drink now
"Portal da Águia" Vinho Branco 2005
DOC Ribatejo $11.95 (688846)
A wine that was fashioned for summer sipping at a price to be purchased in quantity. The gorgeous and lifted nose is spiced apple and pear while the flavours are all over the map with pineapple, honey, mineral and citrus. The result is a refreshing, sweet and sour white that offers medium texture and good balance of fruit and acidity. Would be the perfect foil to spicy Thai and curried Asian cuisine. (VH)

Spain: white

**** drink now
Bodegas Martin Codax "Salterio" Albariño 2004
DO Riax Baixas $15.45 (002774)
A beauty from the doyen of wine makers in this little-known Spanish wine region. It is somewhat of a mystery that this region of too much rain and too little sunshine can produce a wine of this character, but it does. This has grapefruit, kiwi and citrus flavours plus a bracing spine of acidity. Surprisingly, it also delivers an almost creamy texture. You need to experience this alongside seared scallops. A wine to be consumed shortly after purchase. (VH)

Spain: rosé

***1/2 drink now
"Hermanos Lurton" Rosado 2005
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León $10.95 (684985)
The ubiquitous Lurton brothers surface again; this time in sunny Spain. This fresh and easy rosé offers a red berry nose and flavours of cranberry and spicy Montmorency cherries. It is cleansing, refreshing and bone dry. Buy this in quantity to drink over the next couple of months. Serve well chilled on its own or pair to light seafood appetizers. Good value. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Chile

****1/2 drink now
Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Carmenére 2005
Central Valley $11.85 (620666)
Someone at the LCBO had a devilishly keen sense of irony in assigning this (666) number. Cigar box and spiced black cherry on the nose, it really revs up with rich, concentrated currant and bramble berry flavours, forming a spicy gusher on the palate. Beautifully textured and sporting a lengthy finish, it is one the best fruit forward red wine bargains on the General List. Gained its final half star on a price to quality imbalance tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Casillero del Diablo Merlot 2004
Central Valley $11.85 (427088)

Many Chilean producers had to reinvent Merlot after separating Carmenère, which had long been thought to be a clone of Merlot. The Merlot alone lacked some of the spiciness that Carmenère contributed. Concha y Toro has found its Merlot feet with this well-priced bottle. The flavours are rich (ripe dark plum predominant) and there are good spicy notes and gentle tannins. It's well made, well priced, and goes well with spicy (as in barbecue sauce) red meat dishes. (RP)

France

**** drink now
Louis Bernard Côtes-du-Rhône White 2004
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $10.85 (589432)
This is very good value. You get a blend of five southern Rhône grapes that offers attractive aromas of white peach and apricot pit with the merest hint of honey. It's all there in the intense flavours, too, where you'll find a mouth-filling texture and very good balance. Pair this with grilled herbed chicken or with grilled garlicky pork tenderloin. (RP)

*** drink now
Bouchard Aîné & Fils "Pinossimo" Pinot Noir 2004
Vin de Pays d'Oc $13.85/1 litre Tetra Pak (669176)
With one of the least-attractive brand names I've seen for some time, this light-medium-bodied wine gives decent cherry fruit, light spiciness and good acidity. It's not very complex but it would make a very good partner to seasoned grilled chicken dishes. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Cuvée Mythique Shiraz-Grenache "Duo" Rosé 2005
Vin de Pays d'Oc $12.85 (622100)
The Cuvée Mythique red blend has been a popular item in Vintages for years, and now the producer has come out with a series labelled "Duo," because each is a blend of two varieties. This Shiraz-Grenache rosé is richly coloured and delivers ripe red berry and tree fruit flavours. It's dry and crisp and pairs well with summer salads but has the flavour to cope with a steak frites. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Jean Jean "Arabesque" Syrah Rosé 2005
Vin de Pays d'Oc $9.90 (355347)
Sweltering heat and chilled rosé were made for each other and here's another for your consideration. It has freshly picked and sliced strawberry on the nose of this light to medium-bodied dazzler. It is quite tart and tangy with more strawberry and sour cherry flavours. A refreshing way to greet friends or pair to all manner of hors d'oeuvres. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Kressman "Solo" Shiraz 2004
Vin de Pays d'Oc $11.95 (619700)
"Shiraz" on the label signals a New World style, and this southern French wine speaks with a bit of an antipodean accent. It's fruit-forward (cherry, berries to the fore) with spicy notes. Not too complex, but it works very well with grilled red meats and hamburgers. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Château Lamargue Rosé 2005
AOC Costières de Nîmes $10.90 (622167)
This is a Syrah-Grenache blend that delivers attractive rich sweet fruit and berries (cherry, strawberry, raspberry). It's crisp but with a soft texture and pairs nicely with salads with a sweet component, like dried cranberries. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
La Vieille Ferme "Lasira" 2004
Costières de Nîmes $10.80 (669184)
The back label describes the wine as "75% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 0% Cork," a nifty way of bringing the screwcap to your attention. This is a fruity number with flavours of ripe cherry and plum, some spicy notes and a tangy texture. Smooth and juicy, it pairs nicely with traditional burgers and other red meat dishes. (RP)

Italy

***1/2 drink now
Botter "Alex" Sangiovese 2005
IGT Marche $12.85/1 litre Tetra Pak (613612)
Good things come in some of the Tetra Paks that have started to populate LCBO shelves. This is an organically-grown Sangiovese that gives very good flavours of bright red fruit (cherry, plum, raspberry) with big spicy notes. It's medium bodied, and has the vibrant Sangiovese acidity that makes it a great partner to tomato-laden pizza and tomato-based pasta dishes. (RP)

New Zealand

**** drink now
Matua Valley Merlot / Cabernet 2004
Hawke's Bay $15.85 610964)
Now part of the Fosters group, this premium winery is an icon after producing NZ's first Sauvignon Blanc. Spiced black currant and dark plum aromas waft from the glass of this medium-bodied gem. There is a rich sweet core of bramble berry fruit and balancing tang to fashion a harmonious drop. This is well structured, well balanced and well priced. The lengthy and powerful finish suggests a pairing with grilled lamb. (VH)

South Africa

***1/2 drink now
Bellingham "Our Founders" Sauvignon Blanc 2005
WO Coastal Region $13.85 (665315)
Herbaceous on the nose, this medium-weight white delivers a mélange of flavours including gooseberries and tropical fruit. The lengthy finish is clean and refreshing with tangy fruit flavours that are redolent of lemon and lime zest. Lovely to sip on its own, it would match particularly well to seared scallops. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

***1/2 drink now
Château des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc 2005
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (4534323)
This is the first vintage of the winery's estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc, and it's labelled for the Niagara-on-the-Lake sub-appellation. Get used to seeing more and more of the sub-appellations on Niagara Peninsula wines. Very light in colour, this delivers solid fruit flavours in the gooseberry-green apple-citrus zones. It's dry, with a zesty texture and makes a great partner to fresh oysters and grilled seafood with a squeeze of lemon. If there's none left in Vintages, you can buy it from the winery or from Château des Charmes retail stores. (RP)

**** drink now
Château des Charmes "St. Davids Bench Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
VQA St. Davids Bench $25.00 (935957)
A dry, medium-bodied Cabernet that delivers dark red fruit and berry aromas and flavours. Look for cherry, plum and cassis, with notes of spice and cigar box. It's nicely structured, well balanced, and expresses the very good 2002 vintage well. It's drinking very nicely now (pair it with red meat) but you can safely hold it a year or two. Try Vintages for this, but if they're out, buy it from the winery direct or from one of their retail stores. (RP)

**** drink now
Vineland Estates Pinot Gris 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95
Brace yourself for a welcome wave of flavour in a wine world drowning in watery Pinot Gris. A beguiling nose of spice and honey is the segue to this medium-bodied gem. Expect flavours of peaches and honey while the lengthy finish delivers a sweet and sour tang that provides deft balance between a spine of citrussy zest and residual sugar. It cries out for spicy Asian cuisine. Contact Blayne at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or Blayne Bonfoco toll free 1-888 846-3526 ext. 29 for no minimum, direct home delivery. (VH)

New in restaurants

**** drink now
Marc Kreydenweiss "Barbabelle" 2002
AOC Costières de Nîmes $12.95 retail
This is a very attractive and well-priced blend of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache. It delivers solid aromas and flavours of bright red fruit (cherry, berries) with notes of spice. Medium-bodied with complex structure and well-balanced in a food-friendly way, it pairs successfully with a well-seasoned grilled veal chop or with richly-flavoured osso bucco. The grapes in this wine were grown according to biodynamic principles. Order by the case from www.wineonline.ca . (RP)

Cheers,

Vic and Rod,

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar