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July 8, 2006 Release

 

This release starts off with a feature on wines from Alsace, France. It continues with a line up of wines from various countries. Wines are reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages catalogue.

***1/2 drink now
Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Herrenweg De Turckheim 2004
AOC Alsace $38.95 (680348)
Parker fairly gushes over every release and the wines are usually massive. However, this is a medium weight offering with a lifted nose of toast and nectarine while the flavours are peaches and honey. Bracing acidity flows through this, providing a finish that is clean and refreshing. Drink now to 2010. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Gérard Neumeyer Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes 2005
AOC Alsace $14.95 (686329)
Muted slate and mineral notes form the nose while the flavours are in the pear and green apple zones. Light to medium-bodied, this has great verve (unusual, in that Sylvaner is known for its low acidity) that runs the entire length of the wine. Grilled fish with a drizzle of lemon or seared scallops would pair well. (VH)

**** drink now
Hugel Muscat "Tradition" 2004
AOC Alsace $15.95 (956771)
If you don't know what Muscat smells and tastes like, describing it as "Muscat" won't help much. But if you like aromatic, spicy whites, the sort that go with somewhat spicy Asian dishes, try this. Besides the Muscat, you'll find flavours of peach and apricot, notes of white pepper, and a smooth texture. A slight bitter note at the end cleans up this well-made, crisp white. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Willm Gewürztraminer Reserve 2004
AOC Alsace $15.95 (686303)
Typical Gewürtz aromas of rosewater are predominant in this medium to full-bodied offering. Subtle peach and orange flavours are intermingled with a core of sweetness that carries through to the pleasant finish. More 'off dry' than dry, it would pour beautifully with spicy Thai or hot Indian curry dishes. (VH)

**** drink now
Cave De Turckheim Pinot Gris Dry 2004
AOC Alsace $16.95 (686287)
A gorgeous nose of honey and baked apple wafts from the glass of this medium to full-bodied offering from a top notch producer. This starts out with sweet pit fruit flavours then ends with a clean dry finish of lingering citrus. Wisely secured under screw cap, it will remain this way. Try with lemon veal. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Pierre Sparr "Prestige" Pinot Noir 2003
AOC Alsace $28.95 (960484)
The sweet 'grapey' nose forms a nice entry to this medium -bodied somewhat atypical Pinot. Sweet red berry fruit and minty, milk chocolate flavours come to the fore while the finish is spicy, sweet and lengthy. This would work well chilled slightly and served with grilled pork tenderloin in a teriyaki sauce. (VH)

Canada: red

**** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (268391)
Henry of Pelham has a strong line of red wines, and this fits in very well. It delivers good, solid fruit with a sweet cherry and strawberry core and caramel notes. Medium weight with smooth texture, it's well balanced and pairs very well with grilled lamb chops. (RP)

USA: white

***1/2 drink now
Kenwood Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Sonoma County $16.95 (971754)
A crisp, lively, vibrant Sauv Blanc that offers lemon-lime flavours with contributions from white grapefruit and green grass. It's a pre-dinner sipper that will transition well to an appetizer of grilled seafood. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Ravenswood "Vintner's Blend" Chardonnay 2004
California $19.95 (683847)
A classic, crowd-pleasing New World Chardonnay, this delivers full fruit and texture. Look for peach and tropical fruit to dominate the flavours. Overall it's well made and well balanced, and pairs well with roast chicken or turkey. (RP)

USA: red

**** drink or cellar
Clos du Bois Merlot 2002
Sonoma County $22.95 (124883)
Sunny California is infused into this silky smooth red. The aromatic profile consists of spicy black plums while the flavours are ripe, rich black berry fruit and ripe plum. This is medium-bodied, offering a layered and complex palate coupled with a mellow fruity finish. Lovely on its own or with roast duck from now to 2010. (VH)

**** drink now
Five Rivers Pinot Noir 2004
Santa Barbara County $19.95 (684514)
(From Winecurrent.com, April 15, 2006) A well-priced Pinot that offers bright cherry flavours with a core of sweet cherry fruit. It's nicely nuanced with spicy notes, has a tangy texture, is medium bodied, and finishes well. (RP)

Chile: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Albamar Merlot Reserve 2004
Central Valley $14.95 (928309)
A well-priced Merlot, this offers a juicy texture and concentrated flavours of dark fruit. It's not too complicated, but it's solid through and through, and makes an excellent partner to grilled red meats. (RP)

Australia: white

***1/2 drink now
Margan Semillon 2003
Hunter Valley, New South Wales $15.95 (961516)
Pit fruit (peach, green plum) and earthy aromas blast from the glass of this light to medium-bodied Aussie. Tangy flavours of apples and pears on the palate are joined by pink grapefruit on the cleansing finish. This is well-priced and well worth a punt. Drink now with all manner of grilled seafood drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

Australia: red

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Barossa Valley Estates "Ebenezer" Shiraz 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (971705)
We both loved this 'beaut' from the folks that bring you E&E Black Pepper Shiraz. Coconut and ripe bramble berry aromas fashion the vibrant nose of this hugely concentrated, full-bodied red. Black plum and spice abound with ripe tannins providing good grip and structure. Well balanced and seamless in its fruit forward profile, this has the guts to go another 10 years. Try with rack of lamb and your very best friend. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz-Mourvèdre 2004
South Australia $20.95 (468629)
This is very good value for a wine of this quality. Look for a well-structured, elegant blend that delivers pure fruit in the dark tree fruit and berry zones with notes of spice, coffee and black pepper. This one's a natural for flavoursome red meat dishes. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Wits End "The Procrastinator" 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $14.95 (684100)
The nose is funky with leather and gamey notes, but the flavours are pure and fruit-driven. This Cabernet Franc (95%) Shiraz (5%) blend is extremely well priced. Juicy black berry fruit to the fore, it has a sweet core (14.5% alcohol) and a fairly mellow disposition. It finishes smooth and silky, with licorice and berry fruit notes, and will drink well now to 2011. Stock up. (VH)

South Africa: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Dornier "Donatus" White 2004
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (597278)
A plush, flavourful blend of Chenin Blanc (60%), Semillon (30%) and Sauvignon Blanc (10%) from a very reliable producer. It delivers a layered profile of citrus, gooseberries and green apple with a slight honeyed note. The balancing acidity contributes a bracing texture and the finish is long. Pair this with seared scallops with a squeeze of fresh lemon. (RP)

South Africa: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Dornier Merlot 2003
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 (694224)
This delivers intriguing aromas of dark fruit, spice, smoke and mint. The balance has a food-friendly tilt, the texture is full, round and generous, and the tannins are ripe and slightly dusty with a good but manageable grip. Decant this for drinking now, or tuck it away for up to eight years. Then enjoy it with grilled lamb or game. (RP)

France: white

*** drink now
André Lurton Château de Quantin Blanc 2004
AOC Pessac-Léognan $18.95 (525402)
The lifted nose of honey and beeswax turns into a light-bodied quaffer on the palate. Green apple and citrus make up the flavours while the short finish is fresh, zesty and clean. Try it alongside mussels steamed in this wine. (VH)

France: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Les Vign. de la Méditerranée "Cuvée Mythique" Réserve 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc $17.95 (352468) 750 ml and $9.95 (655019) 375 ml
Always a favourite, it turns into a knockout wine partially due to the blistering '03 vintage. It is ripe, rich and concentrated with ladles full of sweet berry fruit flavours. Displaying good balance and structure, the juicy fruit and ripe tannins play off a lovely streak of verve. Couple that with the warm, long and mellow finish and this will be drinking well from purchase to 2012. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Féraud-Brunel Rasteau Rouge 2001
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône Villages $21.95 (653006)
Kirsch, black pepper and currants rip from the nose of this layered and delightfully complex offering. There are firm tannins and good acidity to offer balance and ageability plus sweet ripe berry fruit flavours to provide pleasure in the short term. Drink now to 2012 with grilled rognon de veau in a red wine sauce. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Caves des Vignerons de Gigondas "Signature" 2001
AOC Gigondas $21.95 (957878)
A lifted nose of spice and leather sets up this medium to full-bodied beauty. Lots going on here with oodles of fruit (cherry and spiced plum) flavours, well handled oak, good grip from ripe tannins and a balancing spine of verve to keep it from becoming jammy. The finish, as with this entire wine, is fruit forward and pleasing. Pour this alongside grilled and garlicky lamb chops. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
M. Chapoutier "Petite Ruche" 2003
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $22.95 (684746)
This medium-bodied beauty opens with plum jam and cherry pie aromas before washing the palate with Bing cherry and red currant flavours. Many single out innovative Michel Chapoutier as the Rhône's top wine maker. The balanced and lengthy finish of ripe fruit, good grip and bracing tang portend another 5 years of life and a gorgeous pairing to grilled or roast pork tenderloin marinated in hoi sin and soya sauce. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Raymond Usseglio 2003
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $36.95 (685206)
Spiced plum and smoky notes form the nose of this medium-bodied beauty. A well made wine showing excellent balance and steering clear of jammy from what was, for some, a difficult vintage. Chunky and vibrant on the palate, it displays verve and depth from ripe tannin, lively flavours of red berry and herbs and a generous dollop of balancing tang. Drink now to 2015 with confidence and cassoulet.

***1/2 drink or cellar
Vignerons de Rabastens "Baron de Lyssart" Rouge 2003
AOC Gaillac $13.95 (682740)
From a less than well known region (also holds true for their local grapes, Duras and Braucol) of SW France, this value red would provide a suitable introduction. Tar and leather on the nose, it offers tangy flavours of Montmorency cherry and cranberry. This would show well with spicy tomato-based cuisine. Why not a pizza? (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Domaine Delaunay Merlot 2003
Vin de Pays Charentais $15.45 (684886)
Look for spicy, peppery and fruit forward flavours of currant and ripe black cherry that wash over the palate in waves. The finish offers more of the same. This region is certainly more famous for its cognac and Pineau des Charantes, but if this wine is any indication, that is soon to change. It is well balanced, rich, supple and certainly worth a multiple purchase. You can drink now with pleasure or cellar for the next couple of years. (VH)

**** drink now
Cyril Marès Mas des Bressades "Cuvée Tradition" Rosé 2005
AOC Costières de Nîmes $11.95 (950576)
Great summer drinking and wonderful value here from a recognized and respected producer. This has strawberry notes on the nose, good texture and fruit (cherry and cranberry) on its medium-bodied frame and a lovely tang to keep it clean and fresh on the finish. Rosé is an extremely versatile and food friendly wine, pairing with smoked salmon, grilled chicken and all manner of summer time fare. Serve well chilled (VH)

Germany: white

***1/2 drink or cellar
Josef Leitz Riesling Kabinett 2004
QmP Rheingau $15.45 (662189)
Slate and mineral on the nose, this offers sweet pit fruit flavours of peach and nectarine played off against balancing acidity. It produces that wonderful sweet and sour, yin and yang experience that is surprisingly clean and refreshing and incredibly food friendly. Try this with spicy Asian, say pot stickers dipped in a hot sauce. Very well priced. (VH)

Italy: white

**** drink now
Montresor "Capitel Alto" Soave Classico 2004
DOC Soave Classico $15.45 (531673)
This rises like an island from the lake of bland whites bearing the Soave appellation. Look for quite intense and interesting flavours of tropical fruit and sweet apple, all accented with spice and white pepper. It's on the dry side of off-dry, and makes a good partner for lightly spiced Asian dishes. (RP)

Italy: red

**** drink or cellar
Pio Cesare Barbera d'Alba 2003
DOC Piedmont $22.95 (938886)
Leather and tar on the nose, this plays out as a firm fist in a velvet glove. It is big on ripe fruit flavour (plum, cherry and black currant) and ripe tannin. Offering character and structure, it is not at all jammy. Medium textured, you should expect cellaring potential, good acidity (the nature of the Barbera grape) and wonderful value. Drink now to 2012. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Inycon Nero d'Avola 2004
IGT Rossodi Sicilia $12.95 (685123)
Smooth and easy drinking, this starts off with spiced fruit and smoke on the nose while the flavour profile provides pleasant red berry fruit. This is an honest and straightforward wine delivering good value. There is enough weight and balance to suggest a pairing, served slightly chilled, with a summer time buffet of smoked cold cuts. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Santa Margherita Terrelíade "Nirà" Nero d'Avola 2003
IGT Sicilia $15.95 (688762)
A vibrant nose of floral notes and spicy red currant opens the door to this medium-bodied red. There are gobs of sweet cherry and raspberry jam flavours that carry through to the medium length finish. More new world than old, this reflects the hot '03 vintage. A crowd pleaser at your next back yard barbie. (VH)

***** cellar
Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore 1998
DOC Veneto $71.95 (986117)
Full bore, hedonistic and elegant come to mind while tasting this stunning wine. And, yes, it was tough to spit. The rich perfumed nose of tar, black licorice and leather provides the segue to rich and concentrated flavours of chocolate, mint and berry fruit. They attack the palate in waves and carry through to the layered and lengthy finish. Good to go another fifteen years, tuck away for at least five before trying. (VH)

Spain: white

***1/2 drink now
Miguel Torres "Gran Viña Sol" Chardonnay 2004
DO Penedès $15.45 (64774)
Beguiling floral, vanilla and tropical fruit flavours spin off the glass of this medium-bodied refreshing white. From one of Spain's premiere Catalonian producers, this is a perennial favourite. There is good balance between the pit fruit, green apple flavours and the refreshing tang. A delightful welcoming wine or would marry well to how they enjoy it in Spain, with mounds of grilled calamari. (VH)

Spain: rosé

****1/2 two glasses drink now
Bodegas Muga Rosé 2005
DOC Rioja $13.95 (603795)
Rod and I both enthused over this medium to full-bodied treasure from a premiere producer of Rioja reds. From the intriguing nose (herbs and strawberry) to the lengthy warm (13.5% alcohol) finish, it offers value, complexity and a mouth watering treat. The beautiful structure of this wine, especially the flavours of red berries and spine of tang, allow it to be served on its own or with a variety of cuisine. Try well chilled and paired to seared and lightly buttered scallops and prawns. (VH)

New in the LCBO
Argentina

**** drink now
Masi Passo Doble 2004
Tupungato, Mendoza $14.85 (620880)
Fashioned from 60% Malbec and 40% Corvina, a small percentage of the Corvina were partially dried and added to the already fermented Malbec, igniting a second fermentation that added complexity and structure to this lovely red. Rich black currant and red berry aromas and flavours run wild through this medium-bodied gem. The finish is lengthy and redolent of raisined berries. (VH)

Australia

***1/2 drink now
Peter Lehmann "Weighbridge" Semillon Chardonnay 2003
Barossa Valley $11.85 (610717)
The aromas are all lemon-lime, and they come through as flavours with added layers of peach and grapefruit. Nicely structured, medium bodied, clean and crisp, this is great with grilled seafood and a squeeze of lemon. (RP)

Canada

***1/2 drink or cellar
Hillebrand "Trius" Red 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (303800)
A Niagara blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this has a solid fruit profile (dark plum, cherry, berries) with notes of spice and pencil shavings. Pair it with grilled red meats or gourmet pizza. (RP)

Chile

***1/2 drink now
Viña Santa Carolina Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
DO Valle De Colchagua $12.95 (275925)
Spice and berry fruit notes waft from the glass of this light to medium-bodied red. There are candied cherry and plum flavours that intermingle with the carefully handled oak nuances and soft tannins. This is an easy drinking honest offering that would pair well with gourmet burgers and grilled red meats. (VH)

**** drink now
Viña Santa Carolina Reserva Chardonnay 2004
DO Valle De Casablanca $10.85 (304022)
A gorgeous wine at a terrific price point, it opens with tropical fruit aromatics then washes over the palate with layers of ripe sweet peach and melon flavours. Medium-bodied and complex, it finishes up clean and tangy. A pleasing touch of oak adds complexity to a wine that tips the scales of price and quality heavily in your favour. (VH)
France

**** drink now
M. Chapoutier "Belleruche" Côtes-du-Rhône 2004
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $14.95 (665422)
From a well-known producer, this delivers aromas of spicy dark fruit (cherry, plum) that change up to intense flavours of sweet, dark fruit with firm accents of spice and pepper. Try it with grilled lamb chops. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Château Bonnet 2002
AOC Bordeaux $16.75 (99044)
A terrific find with very few Bordeaux red wines under twenty dollars and even fewer with the class of this. 20 year old Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vines (a 50 / 50 blend), egg white fining and deft oak handling give this character and finesse. It starts with a gorgeous nose of ripe, black fruit, washes over the palate with nicely textured ripe berry fruit and finishes lengthy and balanced. Good now to 2010. (VH)

Italy

***1/2 drink now
Masi Campofiorin 2003
IGT Rosso del Veronese $16.80 (155051)
Those looking for a lighter style, when compared to past vintages, will love this. It offers freshly picked cherry and cranberry flavours. All is in balance and the finish is clean and fruit forward with notes of blueberry and a hint of mocha. By harvesting the classic blend of local grapes (Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara) early, it avoided any jammy tones. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Masi Levarie Soave Classico 2005
DOC Soave Classico $11.85 (266221)
A benchmark Soave from a premium producer. This has a number of assets - 20% Trebbiano has been blended to the Garganega to add complexity, 20% of the wine saw a touch of oak to add character and it underwent partial malolactic to add texture. However, it loses none of its zingy freshness in the process and would be the perfect foil to all manner of seafood. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Masi Modello Delle Venezie 2005
IGT Bianco Delle Venezie $9.90 (564674)
Predominantly Garganega, this has Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco in the blend, producing a light to medium-bodied zinger. You will discover mineral and floral notes off the nose while the taste is redolent of Sauvignon Blanc with oodles of herbaceous and citrus flavours. The finish is clean, refreshing and would pair well with grilled white fish. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Masi "Toar" 2001
IGT Rosso del Veronese $21.80 (342444)
Two indigenous grapes, Corvina (75%) and the rare and ancient Oseleta (25%) were blended to produce this rich and concentrated red. Licorice, tar and leather blow from the lifted nose while the flavour profile includes bramble berry and sour cherry that is layered and complex. The finish is memorable with tar, cherry and black licorice notes.

South Africa

***1/2 drink now
KWV Chenin Blanc 2006
WO Western Cape $7.40 (18689)
Nettles and mineral on the nose, this light to medium-bodied quaffer has a great mid palate of tropical fruit and citrus. The herbaceous aromas from the nose reappear on the finish with distinctive grassy and lime notes that help the wine clean up with a refreshing zing. Hard to go wrong at this price point. (VH)

**** drink now
KWV Rooderberg 2003
WO Western Cape $11.85 (7187)
The most recognizable brand from KWV, it is highly sought after by SA ex-pats all over the world. From the interesting nose of bell pepper and black ripe fruit to the lengthy finish of spiced cherries and cranberry tang, this is gorgeous. Sweet ripe berry fruit flavours abound as it takes the best from each grape in the blend (predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot) and delivers a well balanced, medium textured red at a terrific price. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Robert's Rock Chenin Blanc / Chardonnay 2005
WO Western Cape $7.95 (501304)
Quince and vanilla waft from the glass of this medium-bodied white. There are vibrant flavours of apple and peach with a subtle hint of licorice. It finishes clean, lengthy and fruit forward, providing the perfect foil to lemon chicken or veal dishes. Extremely well priced as is, there is a one dollar discount ($6.95) until July 16. Pick up a few. (VH)

**** drink now
Ubuntu Shiraz 2004
WO Western Cape $10.90 (665281)
This attractively labelled line was recently released into the Canadian market. The smoke and tar nose is an interesting segue to this peppery, medium weight, fruit forward (spiced black plum) beauty. It's tangy and fresh and provides enough fruit, structure and grip to earn its 'well balanced' tag. The incredible price helped earn its final half star. Give it a go. (VH)

Spain

**** drink now
Campo Viejo Rioja Crianza 2003
DOC Rioja $13.95 (620997)
A blend that's mainly Tempranillo, this Rioja delivers very nice aromas and flavours of red fruit (plums, cherry) with some spiciness and a hint of vanilla. It's medium bodied and well balanced and goes well with pork tenderloin. (RP)

Upstream
Classics Catalogue August, 2006

***** drink or cellar
KWV Jean Taillefert 2002
WO Paarl, South Africa $59.95 (2295)
An opaque and brooding dark red in the glass, this 100% Shiraz turns elegant, complex and memorable on the palate. The spice and coconut (from the American oak regimen) aromatics are joined by a sweet core of black plum flavours that carry seamlessly through the lengthy and luxurious finish. Well balanced, well structured and well? damn delicious. Drink now to 2014. (VH)

Classics Catalogue August, 2006

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tyrrell's Vat 47 Chardonnay 2003
Hunter Valley, Australia $39.95 (912287)
A world class Chardonnay that has garnered a swag of show medals. This has great verve and crispness with white peach, lime zest and green plum flavours to the fore. It has a tad of spice from deftly handled oak and the finish is a ripper with fruit (peach, quince) and acidity in perfect balance. Drinking extremely well now and good to go another 5 years.

Vintages Release November, 2006

****1/2 drink or cellar
Torres Mas La Plana 2001
DO Penedes, Spain $39.95 (617456)
Smoke, oak and spiced cherries blow off this satiny smooth Cabernet Sauvignon. Offering layers of ripe red berry fruit, caressed by soft ripe tannins, there is barely perceptible balancing tang. Mark this an easy and early drinking wine that is gorgeous now and will be over the next 4 to 5 years. Medium-bodied, fruit forward and softly textured, it would pour well alongside lamb daube. (VH)

Vintages Release December 9, 2006

**** drink now
Viña Santa Carolina "Barrica Selection" Petit Verdot 2004
DO Valle De Rapel $14.95 (7484)
Intriguing aromas of brioche and cherry set up this medium-bodied red. The addition of 15% Syrah gives it oomph as the palate is treated to structure and grip along with the rich sweet (14.5% alcohol) black fruit flavours. Deftly handled oak, fairly low acidity and the fruit forward flavours coalesce into another of wine maker, Sven Bruchfeld's trade mark gems. This offers good value and suggests a multiple purchase. (VH)

Rating System 

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar

Cheers!

Vic and Rod