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Vintages Release, June 24, 2006

This release starts with a feature on Portuguese wines and a collection of whites made from various varieties.

Portugal: white

***1/2 drink now
Quinta Do Portal Branco 2005
DOC Douro $15.95 (642371)
Muscat aromatics off the lifted nose (floral, grapey, orange blossom) lead one into this light to medium-bodied quaffer. There is a delicious sweet and sour tanginess along with a short, but clean and refreshing finish. A splendid candidate for serving, well chilled, to arriving guests or as a lovely accompaniment to a mildly spiced seafood appetizer. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Real Companhia Velha "Porca de Murça" Reserva Branco 2004
DOC Douro $15.95 (684761)
A blend of Moscatel and two Portuguese varieties, this is a tangy-textured white that makes an excellent summer sipper, but goes well, too, with slightly spicy grilled seafood. Look for ripe peach flavours to the fore, with mineral and citrus notes. (RP)

**** drink now
Sogrape Quinta De Azevedo Vinho Verde 2005
DOC Vinho Verde $11.95 (727115)
Lemon and mineral notes fashion the aromas of this light-bodied zinger. Zippy and zesty key lime flavours abound in the flavour profile while the finish is quite cleansing. The Portuguese enjoy this with all manner of seafood while lounging outside in the warm summer sun. You can, as well, as it is very well priced. (VH)

**** drink now
Sogrape Duque De Viseu Branco 2004
DOC Dão $11.95 (980227)
Floral and vanilla bean aromatics drift off this lovely white. You will revel in the sweet ripe stone fruit flavours and the supple texture this medium weight gem offers. The entire wine, right to the lengthy finish, is very well balanced. Lovely on its own, it is a risk-free choice with grilled fish. The price to quality balance is tipped in your favour. (VH)

Portugal: red

**** drink now
Aliança Garrafeira Bairrada 1997
DOC Bairrada $12.95 (950220)
It's not often you can buy an eight-year-old red for $12.95, unless it well over the hill. Here's an exception, because this one is holding on well. It's dry and medium bodied with ripe berry flavours dominant, some dried fruit and earthy notes that show age, and good tannins. Pair it with grilled lamb chops that are not eight years old. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Vinhos D. Joana "Encostas de Estemoz" Touriga Nacional 2003
Vinho Regional Alentejano $17.95 (684936)
There's an unusual floral note among the aromas-not unpleasant, but unusual-and it's there in the flavours, too. The dominant flavours though, are red and black berries and overall it delivers a sweet tangy texture with good body. It's a great partner to grilled lamb. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Esporão Tinto Reserve 2003
DOC Alentejo $25.95 (606590)
This is a big, luscious red that will work wonders with a chunk of medium-rare steak off the grill. Look for full body, substantial sweet fruit (cherry, plum, black berry) with ripe and supple tannins. (RP)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Herdade Grande Tinto 2003
Vinho Regional Alentejano $14.95 (685073)
This is an excellent buy for the barbecue season; it goes well with all manner of red meats, ribs and well-herbed grilled chicken. The concentrated sweet fruit flavours are dominated by red berries, and there's some complexity. (RP)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta de Camarate Tinto 2003
Vinho Regional Terras do Sado $13.95 (357962)
Try this with food that has a little acidity from, say, tomatoes. A braised lamb shank in a tomato-rich sauce would be perfect. The wine has bright red fruit (plums, berries), is dry and has quite firm tannins, and is very well priced. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Real Companhia Velha "Porca de Murça" Reserva Tinto 2001
DOC Douro $17.95 (684753)
Look for a glass full of rich, concentrated dark fruit here. It's almost full bodied, with focused flavours of cherry, plum and spice, and has ripe, drying tannins. Very good value and a great partner for hearty red meat dishes. (RP)

Port

**** drink now
Smith Woodhouse Fine White Port
DOC Douro $15.95 (684670)
Add this to your summer repertoire of welcoming guests. After recently attending a Portuguese Wine Society event in Ottawa, I highly recommend the following: 3 ounces of White Port, 3 ounces of tonic, a large sprig of mint, over ice in a tall glass. Floral and slightly oxidative on the nose, the nutty sweet flavours deliver a thirst quenching and refreshing summer sipper. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Krohn Colheita Port 1994
DOC Douro $35.95 (915108)
This is drinking beautifully now, but it will be delicious next winter, so snag a few to see you through the hard winter nights. You'll get a mouthful of complex flavours that include fig, dried fruit and roasted nuts, all presented with fine, rich, dark texture. This is an excellent price for a Port you can sip alone or pair with rich fruit cake, sharp cheese, or mixed roasted nuts. (RP)

Madeira

****1/2 drink now
Blandy's "Alvada" 5 Year Old Rich Madeira
Madeira $19.95 (674259)
Malmsey and Bual grapes are blended here and that is a radical departure from traditional single varietal bottlings. Toffee and caramel aromas blast from the glass of this unctuous gem. The flavours are pronounced and smooth, including, as the Vintages catalogue points out, maple syrup. You will also find fig and raisin in the deliciously long and sweet finish. Best served with crème caramel or a spiced dark fruit cake. (VH)

Chardonnay: Australia

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ashbrook Chardonnay 2003
Margaret River, Western Australia $21.95 (684076)
The expressive nose offers toasty oak and sweet apple pie. Full-bodied and concentrated, this gorgeously constructed white offers Gala apple and stone fruit on the palate while the finish is lengthy, crisp and luxurious. This would be stunning served with lobster or prawns, grilled and then smothered in a garlic and butter sauce. (VH)

Riesling: Germany

**** drink now
J & H Selbach Riesling Kabinett 2003
QMP, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Zeltinger Himmelreich $14.95 (682864)
An involved and lifted nose (slate, mineral, orange blossom) greets the lucky taster. Oodles of fruit-driven flavours (peach and tropical fruit) abound in this off dry medium-bodied beauty. Low alcohol (10%) and a delicate sweet/sour tang on the finish mark this a lovely aperitif and well matched to meat dishes (pork, veal or chicken) with some spiciness in them. (VH)

Sauvignon Blanc: New Zealand

***1/2 drink now
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough $29.95 (304469)
(From a previous winecurrent newsletter) The pleasant nose offers grassy and green apple aromatics while the palate is treated to expressive tropical fruit and citrus flavours in this iconic Kiwi SB. The medium finish has hints of peach with generous herbaceous acidity and a zesty bite to clean it all up. Fine to sip on its own, it would also pair well to mussels steamed in white wine. (VH)

**** drink now
Sileni "Cellar Selection" Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough $14.95 (662882)
Clouds of tropical fruit waft from the forward nose of this medium-bodied Kiwi. While round and easy drinking, it doesn't deliver quintessential Marlborough SB notes until the nervy finish when it cleans up with lemon zest and green apples. Expect luscious stone fruit and yellow plum flavours. Very well priced and well matched to grilled white fish with a drizzle of lemon. (VH)

**** drink now
West Brook Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough $17.95 (985994)
Opening with an aromatic nose of nettles and slate, it then gushes with passion fruit and grapefruit flavours. This is a medium-weight, very focused wine. The fruit flavours are clean and citrussy and they lend themselves to a lovely finish. Try this with mussels steamed in a white wine broth. (VH)

Sylvaner: France

***1/2 drink now
Ruhlmann Sylvaner "Bouquet Printanier" 2004
AOC Alsace $11.95 (686345)
Sweet honey and floral dominate the aromas while the flavours feature sweet apple and pear. This is dry with good balancing acidity for a clean, refreshing white. Sip it alone or pair it with grilled freshwater fish like trout. (RP)

Italy: Falanghina

***1/2 drink now
Rami Falanghina del Molise 2005
DOC Falanghina del Molise $13.95 (531814)
Made from the well-known Falanghina grape (with a little help from the ubiquitous Fiano variety), this delivers fresh peach and apricot flavours with a good citrus spine. It's crisp and refreshing. And goes well with slightly spicy seafood or chicken, or makes an excellent sipping wine. (RP)

Fortified Wine: Sherry

**** drink now
Williams & Humbert "Walnut Brown" Rare Old Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $11.95 (437467)
This amber-coloured, green tinged liquid is pure ambrosia in a glass. Three grapes, Palomino, Moscatel and Pedro Ximinez, coalesce to deliver a scrumptious mouthful of toffee, nut and raisin flavours. The balancing acidity is well in the background, but does prevent it from becoming flabby. This is a great buy from a premium Sherry producer. Serve chilled with confidence and crème caramel. At an extremely attractive price. (VH)

USA: red

**** drink or cellar
Courtney Benham Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Napa Valley, California $29.95 (673772)
An intriguing nose of currant and bramble berry forms the segue to this juicy fruit-forward red. It provides tarry black cherry and red licorice flavours all wrapped around supple tannins and enough verve to keep it honest and clean. Well balanced and layered, it finishes with dark chocolate and berry fruit. Drink now to 2010 with all manner of grilled red meat. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
J. Lohr "Seven Oaks" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Paso Robles $19.95 (656561)
Paso (as those in the know call it) is becoming famous for its Rhône-style wines, and this Cab has a little Rhône in it, in the form of small percentages of Syrah and Carignan. The result is a gorgeous blend that delivers a whole raft of dark fruit flavours along with notes of tobacco, spice and coffee. Full-bodied and smooth-textured, it's excellent with full-flavoured red meats. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Sonoma County $24.95 (226944)
You could drink this now in a pinch, but why, when you can hold it two or three years and get more out of it when the tannins are more integrated? Big and dry, with generous dark fruit and spice, it's a great match for a steak, grilled to medium-rare perfection. (RP)

Argentina: red

**** drink or cellar
Famiglia Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
San Rafael, Mendoza $16.95 (677567)
A delicious blend of 86% Cabernet with smaller parts of Merlot, Malbec and Syrah, this delivers dark fruit and spice with quite perceptible accents of herbs, rich chocolate and coffee. It's medium-full in weight with drying tannins that let you hold this two-three years if you want to. Or drink it now with grilled lamb chops. (RP)

Chile: red

**** drink or cellar
Santa Carolina "Reserva de Familia" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Maipo Valley $19.95 (684597)
A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that offers some elegance. Aged for 12 months in French oak, it delivers complex aromas and flavours of red and dark fruit with notes of spice, pepper and licorice. It's smooth textured, well structured and mediujm weight, with sweet manageable tannins and a good complex finish. In all, well made and well priced. (RP)

Australia: white

**** drink now
D'Arenberg 'The Olive Grove" Chardonnay 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $15.95 (702845)
(From a previous winecurrent newsletter) The generous nose gives off spiced apples and vanilla. This medium-bodied white attacks the palate with full tropical fruit flavours (pineapple, melon, citrus) and a lovely cleansing citrussy finish. It is well balanced and well priced. Would be a winner poured with grilled pork tenderloin marinated in soy, garlic and ginger. (VH)

Australia: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Craneford "John Zilm" Grenache 2005
Barossa Valley $26.95 (915660)
This is a "wow!" wine. The flavours are vibrant and pure, here. Look for sweet cherry and berries with spicy herbal accents. It's high in alcohol (15.5%) as Grenache often is, but you don't perceive it: it's well balanced and refined. Pair this with grilled red meat dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Glendonbrook Shiraz 2002
Hunter Valley/Mudgee, New South Wales $16.95 (684050)
Pepper and spice blast from the glass of this medium-weight Shiraz. It also has a deft balance. It is not simply a monochromatic fruit bomb. The robust and juicy ripe fruit (currant and bramble berry) plays off ripe tannins and acidity that hold it all together. Hints of mint and dark chocolate add interest. A crowd pleaser at your next neighbourhood gathering. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Lindemans "Reserve" Merlot 2004
South Australia $15.95 (588715)
This gorgeous Merlot, from a super premium Aussie producer, offers a lifted nose of spiced plum and cherry then hits its stride with a wondrous explosion of fruit flavours that include ripe black berries infused with coffee and spice. There are noticeable, but acceptable tannins and a sweet core of ripe juicy fruit that carries on to the medium length finish. Serve proudly beside smoked and grilled back ribs, now to 2012. (VH)

**** cellar
Mount Langi Ghiran "Cliff Edge" Shiraz 2001
Grampians, Victoria $23.95 (683003)
The nose is earthy and funky, but the wine is concentrated, rich and complex. The Grampians are a stunningly beautiful cooler climate wine region in the state of Victoria. The flavours, more racy than jammy, are cherry and plum with hints of pepper and spice. The finish offers more of the same with a note of coconut lingering in the background. Tuck this away until 2009 then drink over 5 years with good friends. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Parker Coonawarra Estate "Terra Rossa" Merlot 2001
Coonawarra, South Australia $33.95 (678581)
This bruiser of a red is not for the faint of heart. It pools dark and brooding while smoky oak, tar and leather blow off the glass. The palate is then attacked with an array of flavours (plum, spice, mocha and chocolate) that are underpinned by a grainy tannin structure and excellent verve. The robust finish is lengthy, elegant, fruity and marked by drying tannins. Hide this deep in the cellar until 2010 then enjoy until 2015. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Sandalford "Element" Merlot 2004
Western Australia $15.95 (683961)
The "Element" range delivers great fruit across the board: ripe, focused, but never jammy. This Merlot gives you delicious flavours of plum and cherry, with a tangy texture and good balance. If you're confidence in New World Merlot is slipping, test drive this one, and pair it with grilled red meat. (RP)

South Africa: white

**** drink now
Amani Chardonnay 2003
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (687442)
It's the texture I picked up on, first: it's plush and heading in the direction of viscous, without actually getting there. The flavours are plush, too. They're all peach and tropical fruit and it appears that a fig Newton was briefly marinated in it. This full-bodied Chard will go very well with a grilled pork tenderloin with apricot salsa. (RP)

France: white

**** drink or cellar
Château d'Arche 2002
AOC Sauternes Grand Cru Classé $17.95/375ml (525303)
Rich and luscious and well-priced for a Sauternes of this quality. It delivers concentrated flavours of melon and pineapple with a hint of strawberry, and the sweetness is nicely countered with a good acid spine. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Marc Brédif Vouvray 2003
AOC Vouvray $17.95 (685362)
An excellent Vouvray from a premier producer, this offers plush, rich, intense fruit (peach and melon with a veneer of honey) that's keenly balanced by clean acidity. Drink it with something sweet-flavoured, like lobster or seared scallops. (RP)

France: red

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Magellan Syrah/Grenache Vieilles Vignes 2003
Vin de Pays des Côtes de Thongue $15.95 (683722)
This expresses 2003s long hot summer. From the grapey nose to the ripe, juicy and kirsch-like flavours, it is fruit-forward. Expect some spice and savoury notes, as well. However, there is structure and balance fashioned from the supple tannins and dollop of acidity. Idiosyncratic in profile, it nevertheless delivers a crowd pleasing value red. (VH)

France: rosé

***1/2 drink now
Marigny-Neuf Rosé 2005
VDQS Haut-Poitou $12.95 (685032)
Just off-dry, this is great as a summer sipper or to accompany a spicy beef salad. Look for flavours of strawberry, cranberry and red plums. (RP)

**** drink now
Domaine Maby "La Forcadière" Tavel 2005
AOC Tavel $15.95 (701318)
An elegant rosé that rich in fruit and structure. Look for flavours of ripe red fruit and berries and excellent balance, and serve this to any snob who says he/she doesn't drink rosé. Pair it with poached salmon or any dish with baked ham. (RP)

Italy red:
Calabria


***1/2 drink now
Lento Lamezia Riserva 1999
DOC Calabria $17.95 (972208)
An interesting nose of savoury, spice and medicinal cherry notes open up this chunky red from Italy's far SW and mountainous wine region. It is clean and dry, exhibiting flavours of sour cherry, hints of rhubarb and spicy plum. The medium length tangy finish suggests a pairing with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

Tuscany

**** drink or cellar
Salcheto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2001
DOCG Tuscany $23.95 (685180)
Perfumed and lifted, the nose offers savoury, cherry and licorice notes. The robust flavours of sour cherry and spicy plum wash over the palate and linger on the finish. The lengthy finish reveals supple tannins. This powerful red is structured and well balanced. Serve now, beside rognon de veau, sautéed in a red wine sauce, and on until 2012. (VH)

Veneto

***** drink now
Corte Zovo "Sa Solin" Ripasso 2003
DOC Valpolicella $15.95 (650713)
This is a ripper. Sour cherry and spicy black plum aromatics drift off the glass from this medium weight crowd pleaser. It is well structured with balancing acidity and supple tannin while delivering copious amounts of fresh, juicy ripe red fruit on the palate and finish. There is a delightful seam of tar and black licorice that adds interest to the fruit flavours. Worthy of a case purchase to be consumed over the next 2 years. (VH)

Rating System 

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar

Cheers, Rod and Vic