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Vintages Release June 10


Rod was away for this Vintages tasting, spitting his way through France and Germany, but has returned and contributes reviews to various other categories in the following newsletter. This release begins with a good selection of Rosés from around the world. All wines are reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages catalogue.

Ontario

****1/2 drink now
Château des Charmes Cuvée d'Andrée Rosé 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (333260)
A gorgeous nose of freshly cut strawberries drifts from this medium-bodied beauty. It delivers sweet cranberry and pomegranate flavours that are nicely balanced with a fresh and nervy spine of zest. The medium-length finish offers more of the same. Best drunk chilled, pair with gazpacho or bruschetta. Extremely well priced. (VH)

California

****1/2 drink now
Bonny Doon "Vin Gris de Cigare" Rosé 2005
California $17.95 (707018)
Spicy pink grapefruit aromatics emanate from the nose while the flavour profile includes Montmorency cherries and red plums. This is a light to medium-bodied sipper with lots of racy tones to provide a fresh and cleansing taste and finish. Pour with lemon chicken, lightly herbed, served with seasonal veggies. (VH)

Chile

**** drink now
Torres "Santa Digna" Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2005
Curico Valley $11.95 (207035)
The dark and rich colouring sets this medium to full-bodied rosé apart. A very quiet nose of berry fruit forms a segue to cherry and currant flavours complemented by a delightful sweet / sour tang on the zippy and spicy finish. Go for the gusto by pairing with a spicy Asian dish. Well priced from a premiere producer of Spanish and Chilean wine. (VH)

Spain

***1/2 drink now
Julian Chivite "Gran Fuedo" Rosado 2005
DO Navarra $10.95 (256149)
A pleasant nose of strawberry and red cherry opens the door for this light-bodied rosé. It is quite dry and offers red currant and cranberry flavours. The finish is nicely balanced and it all cleans up with a touch of spice and tang. Try with salad, lightly sprinkled with vinaigrette and crumbled chèvre. (VH)

France

*** drink now
Château d'Aqueria Tavel Rosé 2005
AOC Rhône $18.95 (319368)
A very expressive nose of spice and berry fruit explodes from the glass of this light to medium-bodied summer quaffer. The flavours include cherry and strawberry while there is considerable tang and a bit of a bite on the medium length finish (VH)

Port

**** drink now
Graham's Fine White Port
$16.95 (192377)
The golden yellow colour and intriguing aromas of figs and honey help make this a 'must serve' summer wine by discerning hosts. It is the perfect aperitif, served chilled with a splash of soda or tonic and a twist of citrus. At 19% alcohol serve responsibly; it tends to sneak up on you. Look for apple and pear flavours, but the treat is in the overall effect - it's unique, tangy and thirst quenching. (VH)

Canada: white

**** drink now
Flat Rock Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (681247)
A lifted nose of brioche and smoke introduces one to a zesty and refreshing white. The texture is medium weight with flavours of white peach, green apple and citrus along with oodles of nutty and yeasty notes. The finish is clean with citrus and mineral predominant. Lovely on its own or served with grilled chicken strips over greens. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Flat Rock "The Rusty Shed" Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (1552)
Toasty aromas blow off this tangy offering. There are Granny Smith and slate-like flavours that have been well balanced with a bracing spine of zest. Similar flavours replay on the medium length finish. Flat Rock hand picks and sorts its fruit, employs gravity flow and strives for cool climate Chardonnay - textured, fruit focussed and never over-oaked or flabby. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Flat Rock "Twisted" 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (1578)
Beguiling rose water and spicy aromas form the opening to this white blend. The flavours all lie in the citrus and mineral area with a lemon zest bite to the front. The thirst-quenching, laser-like finish offers more of the same. Grilled white fish with a squirt of fresh lemon would pair well. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars Vidal Icewine 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 (672410) 375 ml
(From a previous winecurrent newsletter) Flat Rock's wines are very good across the board, and they've made the right decision to bottle them all under screw cap. This icewine has all the typical flavours-honey, apricot, peach-with some edgy notes of ground cherry. It's less sweet than many icewines and has the acidity that's needed to carry the sugar off successfully. Pair it with seared foie gras or with blue cheese with a bite. (RP)

Canada: red

**** drink or cellar
Cave Spring Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Estate Btld. $29.95 (316943)
The delicate nose of licorice and spice opens up to a lovely mouthful of ripe sweet berry fruit and grippy tannins, all delivering a medium-bodied red. This is complemented by a fruity (black plum and Bing cherry) finish. Drink now 2012 with confidence and a steak grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Flat Rock "Gravity" Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (1560)
A lilac and earthy nose introduce this beautifully balanced red. Round and smooth flavours of spiced plums and black cherry fruit abound on the mid palate and it has been carefully complemented with deftly handled oak and well integrated acidity. Enough ripe and smooth tannin to help it cellar until 2010, but why wait? Boeuf bourguignon would be proud to be served alongside. (VH)

**** drink now
Flat Rock Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (1545)
If you are looking for one of those difficult to find Pinots - well made, great taste, under $20 - you've found it. Smoky gamy aromatics open up this light to medium-bodied drop that sports delicious fruit (black cherry and currant) flavours. It is held together with silky tannins and well integrated oak. The lengthy finish ends with a pleasing fruit tang. (VH)

California: white

**** drink or cellar
Arrowood "Grand Archer" Chardonnay 2002
Sonoma County $26.95 (674879)
Iconic wine maker, Richard Arrowood, and his Timmins, Ontario-born wife, Alis, seldom miss the mark with their wine; this is no exception. You will discern vanilla and tropical fruit aromas followed by a mélange of ripe flavours (peach, pineapple and apple) in this satin-textured white. The finish is lengthy and luxurious with fruit and verve in perfect harmony. Drink now to 2010 with Sunday roast chicken. (VH)

California: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Blackstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
California $19.95 (714816)
Pleasing aromas of black currants and mint, followed by strong berry fruit flavours, mark this as worthy of some attention. There is sufficient grip and a spine of verve to add some complexity and interest. The finish is medium in length and intensity. Pour with burgers and other grilled meats (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Geyser Peak "Block Collection" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Kuimelis Vineyard, Alexander Valley $39.95 (904490)
Smoke, oak and bramble berry aromatics open the door wide for a fruit-driven (cassis and plum) beauty. Noticeable, but acceptable, tannin with a nice dash of zest and some herbaceous notes round this off into a wine that is well-structured and worthy of cellaring. The finish offers hints of chocolate Try now to 2010 with a slab of rare grilled steak. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Geyser Peak Merlot 2002
Alexander Valley $19.95 (490649)
Silky smooth and laden with pure fruit flavours, this medium-bodied gem is a crowd pleaser. Cigar box and cherry aromas drift from the nose whilst the flavours are juicy, black, ripe cherry and plum. It's held together nicely with a touch of oak and pleasant tanginess on the palate and finish. Veal shanks would be a nice match. (VH)

Argentina: white

***1/2 drink now
Casa de Campo "Cepas Privadas" Chardonnay 2004
Mendoza $11.95 (683946)
This cool climate offering sacrifices nothing in very ripe fruit flavours or silky smooth texture. The nose has hints of green apple and melon. Medium-bodied, it displays tropical fruit flavours complemented by a lovely spine of zesty tang that keeps it fresh and clean. Drink on its own or with any manner of lightly herbed chicken or veal. At an attractive price point for Chardonnay lovers. (VH)

Australia: white

***1/2 drink or cellar
Evans & Tate "Classic" Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Margaret River, Western Australia $15.95 (684027)
One of the pioneers in WA, these folks deliver quality wine at a fair price. Lots of herbaceous notes off the nose while the palate delivers peach and lemon zest flavours. It is light to medium-bodied and built for summer quaffing. The finish is clean, dry and wisely sealed under screw cap to keep it this way. A lovely drop alongside buttered and garlic prawns off the barbie. (VH)

Australia: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Juniper Crossing Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2003
Margaret River, Western Australia $15.95 (684019)
The nose brims over with black currant and smoky aromas while the glass explodes with bramble berry and cassis. This is one gutsy (supple tannin) and zesty (deftly handled acidity) well balanced red. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Roast beef , especially that pink slice, would be the go here, from now to 2010. The price to quality ratio is tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Richard Hamilton "Gumprs" Shiraz 2002
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (600122)
Ripe berry fruit and spicy black plum aromas drift from this medium-bodied offering of a perennial favourite. Blackberry and raspberry flavours abound on the palate while all else (tannin, oak, acidity) play a supportive role. The long finish delivers more ripe fruit and a dollop of racy acidity. Rack of lamb seasoned with garlic and rosemary would match well. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Richard Hamilton "Hut Block" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (567917)
A wine that many eagerly await, year after year. Expect plum and mint off the quiet nose then let the spicy plum, chocolate and tarry flavours wash over your palate. It is medium-bodied, nicely textured and well-balanced with a fairly short finish. Drink now with all manner of grilled red meat. (VH)

France: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris Réserve 2004
AOC Alsace $17.95 (983395)
The nose is all about sweet ripe fruit - peaches, yellow plums and pears. The wine is highly textured and fleshy on the palate with more sweet ripe flavours - peach, nectarine and melon. There is a lovely spine of acidity to balance, and it runs through to the tangy zesty finish. This well-structured off-dry beauty would be the perfect foil to spicy Asian dishes. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Servin 2004
AOC Chablis $19.95 (525394)
Textbook Chablis at a fabulous price point. A forward nose of tropical fruit and minerality leads the way to a medium-bodied, dry and racy white. Lots of citrus and green apple flavours to get the juices flowing and the finish offers more of the same - all in great balance. Match to avocado and scallop ceviche. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine de Grand Maison Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine 2003
AOC Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie $13.95 (525279)
Toasty, yeasty notes form the aromatic profile of the expressive nose while the palate is treated to spicy apple and lemon zest flavours. This is medium-bodied and extremely well balanced. The medium finish is very clean with citrus and mineral tones complementing the green apple flavour. The price to quality ratio suggests a multiple purchase for summer and fall sipping. (VH)

France: red

**** drink or cellar
Comtes de Neipperg Clos de l'Oratoire 2003
AOC St-Émilion Grand Cru $69.95 (590919)
Reflecting the very hot 2003 vintage, this is fruity, fleshy and approachable. Spiced cherry on the nose, it delivers a juicy ripe mouthful of cassis and black licorice. The ripe tannins are barely perceptible, but enough to provide balance and structure. Drink now to 2010 with good friends and veal shanks. (VH)

**** drink now
Château l'Hospitalet "La Réserve" Rouge 2003
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $18.95 (682492)
The spiced plum and cherry nose opens up into a mélange of flavours including currant, black plum and medicinal notes. The texture is silky smooth and mellow with all elements well integrated. It is delicately balanced with a medium finish of tar and bramble berry. Well priced, this would set up nicely alongside rich stews, like a lamb daube. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Gérard Bertrand "Terroir" Syrah/Carignan 2003
AOC Minervois $14.95 (952804)
This gutsy red will separate the women from the girls. The expressive nose offers savoury and black ripe fruit aromas that blast from the glass. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is startled with raspberry, tar and spicy flavours that are complemented by supple tannins and a generous, but pleasing, dollop of acidity. Well-priced, this would be a treat served with pasta puttenesca. (VH)

Italy: white

***1/2 drink now
Frescobaldi "Castello di Pomino" 2004
DOC Pomino Bianco $16.95 (65086)
Muted floral and mineral aromatics can be coaxed from this light to medium-bodied crisp and zippy sipper. The flavours include citrus and green apple. While the finish is medium in length, it is long on lemon zest and melon flavour. This would be the perfect foil served with a creamy chicken dish or pasta in a cream sauce. (VH)

Italy: red

***1/2 drink now
Poderi Colla Dolcetto d'Alba 2004
DOC Pian Balbo $14.95 (685156)
This nicely balanced N. Italian red delivers value for money. Violet and red currant aromas greet the taster while the flavours in this medium-weight dry wine consist of sour cherry and cranberry. Given its (by nature) acidity, this is quite smooth on the palate. An honest wine at an attractive price to match your grilled red meats over summer. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
DOCG Tuscany $34.95 (910281)
Dark chocolate and floral notes form the aromatics on this bruiser of a red. Gobs of cherry flavour that is still tightly wound in a grippy tannic structure mark this as a departure from most Chiantis. This also has layers of berry fruit and zippy acidity on the finish. Drink 2008 to 2012. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Australia

***1/2 drink now
Alice White Chardonnay 2005
South Eastern Australia $12.80 (550491)
The pleasing and expressive tropical fruit and vanilla aromas open up to peach, nectarine and green apple flavours in this well-priced, medium-bodied Chard. Everything is in balance. Mark it as well made and delicious. The medium length fruity and clean finish begs for a warm, lazy summer day on the patio. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Banrock Station Unwooded Chardonnay 2005
Australia $12.60 (668954) 1 L Tetra
It's easy - easy opening, easy drinking and easy on the wallet. Pleasant tropical fruit flavours give way to a light-bodied quaffer offering apple and sweet pit fruit flavours complemented by more of the same on the finish. These folks are spearheading the "Bring Back the Salmon to Lake Ontario" initiative. Good on them. (VH)

California

*** drink now
Trinity Oaks Merlot 2002
California $12.00 (610865)
A straightforward Merlot that delivers ripe dark fruit flavours (plum to the fore) with hints of spice. It's medium bodied, dry, slightly tannic, and well balanced. It won't knock your socks off, but it's well made and ideal for grilled red meats from the barbecue. (RP)

France

**** drink or cellar
M. Chapoutier "Belleruche" Côtes-du-Rhône 2004
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $14.95 (665422)
Too many Côtes-du-Rhônes are mediocre (taste them at countless Paris bistros as house wine), but there are many quality expressions, too. Here's one of them, from a well-known producer. It delivers aromas of spicy dark fruit (cherry, plum) that change up to intense flavours of sweet, dark fruit with firm accents of spice and pepper. Try this with grilled lamb chops. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Bouchard Père & Fils Beaujolais-Villages 2004
AOC Beaujolais-Villages $12.95 (665448)
After the rich, intense Beaujolais of 2003, we return to the more typical styles in 2004. This is medium bodied and dry with lovely aromas and flavours of red plum and berries, with hints of spice and earthiness. It's nicely balanced and an excellent partner to summer salads featuring ham or salmon. (RP)

New Zealand

**** drink now
Sacred Hill "Whitecliff" Merlot 2004
Hawke's Bay $14.40 (610980)
This Merlot from the east coast of the North Island (New Zealand's "Right Bank," if you like) delivers quite powerful aromas and intense flavours of dark fruit (plums dominant) with notes of spice and vanilla. Medium-plus in weight, it's well balanced, has a nice structure, and pairs well with grilled lamb. (RP)

Ontario

**** drink now
Birchwood Estate Wines Gewürztraminer/Riesling 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $10.95 (572156)
A mouth watering 'off dry' blend that opens with wispy rosewater aromas. The palate offers zesty citrus and sweet peach flavours that echo off each other to provide a glorious yin and yang, sweet and sour experience. It's fresh, clean and tangy, begging for spicy Asian cuisine, but is still delicious on its own. The price to quality balance is tipped in your favour. (VH)

**** drink now
Cave Spring Cellars Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (228551)
Ripe peach and mineral notes carry right through this tangy and zesty light to medium-bodied gem. There are also spice and citrus flavours that wash over the palate then get into high gear on the balanced finish. It's tasty, refreshing and great value. Pour with lightly herbed veal or chicken dishes. (VH)

**** drink now
Henry of Pelham Dry Riesling 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (268375)
Rich, concentrated fruit is the hallmark of this low-yield white. Mineral and floral notes drift from the glass while the flavours are crisp lemon and sharp yellow plum. Plenty of verve, spice and flavour to drink with pasta in a pesto sauce sprinkled with chèvre. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Hillebrand "Trius" Red 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (303800)
Quite intense aromas of dark fruit and spice lead into a solid fruit-packed flavour profile that features dark plum, cherry, berries and notes of spice and pencil shavings. This is medium bodied, dry, lightly tannic, and very well balanced. It's an excellent partner for many dishes, including grilled red meats, and gourmet pizza that's rich in mushrooms. (RP)

**** drink now
Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95
A very nicely-paced Cab Franc. There's a quite delicious core of sweet red fruit (plum and berries), with notes of tobacco and cedar. It's light-medium in body so won't stand up to heavy dishes, but it's terrific with grilled pork tenderloin with a fruit salsa or with seared scallops. (RP)

Spain

***1/2 drink or cellar
Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva 2000
DOC Rioja $17.95 (137810)
A well-priced Rioja that offers attractive aromas of red and dark fruit with notes of spice and vanilla. The flavours are dominated by dark fruit with an undercurrent of dried fruit, again accented by spice and vanilla. Medium bodied and dry, this goes well with grilled red meats. (RP)

Upstream

Vintages Release June 24, 2006

***1/2 drink now
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, New Zealand (304469) $29.95
The pleasant nose offers grassy and green apple aromatics while the palate is treated to expressive tropical fruit and citrus flavours in this iconic Kiwi SB. The medium finish has hints of peach with generous herbaceous acidity and a zesty bite to clean it all up. Fine to sip on its own, it would also pair well to mussels steamed in white wine. (VH)

Vintages Release July 2006

**** drink now
Isabel Estate Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough (554881) $19.95
High density estate vine plantings - equalling lower yields - and hand harvested fruit are two of the keys to this outstanding SB. The pungent nose of nettles and passion fruit are the segue to a medium-bodied zinger that offers a lovely texture, citrus and white peach fruit and a spine of verve that forms the backbone of this well-priced Kiwi. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Sileni "Cellar Selection" Pinot Noir 2005
Hawke's Bay $17.95
Look for attractive aromas of herbs and sweet fruit, leading to flavours that blend sweet and sour cherry, red berries and red plum, all accented with spice and herbs. Very well balanced, this offers light tannins and pairs well with grilled salmon. (RP)

Vintages Release August 9, 2006

**** drink now
Trumpour's Mill Cabernet/Merlot 2004
VQA Ontario $16.95
A blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot. Beguiling aromas of spiced black plum, savoury and licorice form the segue to a rich and muscular red. Flavours include savoury spice and red cherry. The well balanced finish and terrific price point help make this an attractive buy. (VH)

Vintages Release September 2006 "Wine of the Month"

**** drink or cellar
Babich Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough $19.95
A quite classy New Zealand Pinot Noir, with a fairly intense core of sweet and tart cherry accented with spicy and herbal notes. It's medium weight with light tannins and is a versatile food wine. You can happily pair this with rich vegetarian (mushroom-prominent) dishes, grilled lamb chops, or seared tuna. (RP)

Vintages Release October 2006

****1/2 drink now
Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough $17.95
A very powerful nose of citrus, nettles and minerality sets up this mouth-watering Kiwi. The leesy passion fruit and gooseberry flavours fairly burst upon the palate. The texture is surprisingly smooth, given its lively tanginess, pointing to almost perfect balance between the lively acidity and beautifully ripened and meticulously handled fruit. It finishes with a flavourful burst of pink grapefruit. Very well priced. (VH)

**** drink now
Spy Valley Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough $27.95
Hand picking the ripe fruit, a short cold soak, wild yeast fermentation and deft handling of oak set this up for success. From the lifted nose of spicy plums to the luxurious finish of tarry black currant, this medium-bodied Pinot offers elegance and charm. The flavours of plum and cranberry are generous, a portend of cellaring potential to 2010. (VH)

Vintages Release Fall, 2006

**** drink now
Tohu Unoaked Chardonnay 2005
Marlborough $15.95
Tohu is a Maori-owned winery producing exceptional wines. This one is about gorgeous texture plus tropical fruit flavours of peach and nectarine complemented by Granny Smith apple. Light to medium-bodied on the palate, it relies on ripe fruit and delicate balance to produce a juicy mouthful of fresh fruit flavours. Well priced for a wine of this character. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Tohu Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough $29.95
The delicate nose gives up currant and earthy aromas. Soft and mellow sweet berry fruit wash over the palate alongside ripe tannin and a splash of verve that are all in perfect harmony. It saves its best for last with a lengthy, luxurious finish of currants and savoury spice. The price to quality balance is tipped in your favour. (VH)

Vintages Release November 2006

**** drink now
Konrad Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough $18.95
This is one of those "pure passion fruit" Sauvignon Blancs. Passion fruit is the overwhelming aroma and it dominates the flavours as well, although other tropical fruit play supporting roles. (If you haven't tasted passion fruit, you can sometimes buy them at supermarkets: they're oval, purple, and the skin should be slightly wrinkled.) It's well balanced with just the right acidity to make this a good sipping wine and a successful partner to food. Try it with ceviche. (RP)

Vintages Release January, 2007

***** drink or cellar
Babich 'The Patriarch' 2002
Hawke's Bay $39.95
From the famous 'Gimblett Gravels' area of Hawke's Bay, this is superb. Meticulous fruit selection through hand picking and sorting plus 17 months in oak have fashioned a gorgeously textured red blend in perfect balance. Savoury spice and black berry fruit aromas give way to a juicy mouthful of ripe cherry, black licorice and spicy black plum flavours. The finish is fruit forward, tangy, elegant and lengthy. Drink now to 2012. (VH)

Vintages Release Spring 2007

**** drink or cellar
Konrad Pinot Noir
Marlborough $29.95
This starts with attractive aromas of sweet dark fruit with an herbal overlay, then moves to what's becoming an identifiable New Zealand style of Pinot Noir: layered fruit with strong herbal notes cutting through the fruit sweetness. This is an excellent partner to smoked duck breast. (RP)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink now
Legends Estates Winery Riesling 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.80
An amazing wine that got this way by: whole cluster, lightly pressed grapes, 20 to 25 year old vines, Beamsville Bench fruit and the best vintage since 1998. This rich and concentrated zinger has 17g of residual sugar that is the perfect foil to the spine of balancing zest that run through it. Minerality, citrus and peaches form the flavour profile while the finish is clean and refreshing. Order at www.legendsestates.com . (VH)

**** drink now
Stratus Riesling 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.00
Hand harvested estate grown fruit and a focus on wines with verve coalesce in this superb white. Gobs of minerality is coupled with a subtle hint of petrol to fashion the aromatic profile. It is light-bodied, but packs a considerable punch with zingy acidity, lemon zest plus a very long and cleansing finish. Order directly from www.stratus.com then pair to sushi or grilled firm white fish with a squirt of lemon. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Stratus Cabernet Franc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.00
This opens up with savoury cherry aromas then sets you on your ear with spectacular flavours of currants, tar and licorice. The still grippy tannins and bracing zestiness need a just a shade more time to become integrated, but by then the few cases remaining will be gone, so order now. This is a concentrated, rich and luxurious Cab Franc. Drink 2007 to 2012 with great confidence. Order directly from www.stratus.com. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Vineland Estates Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95

You might find this in some Vintages stores but, if not, order it direct from the winery. It delivers rich, concentrated aromas of dark fruit (plum, cherries, berries) with layered notes of spice, pepper, and green tobacco. It has a rich, plush texture and drying tannins, and will keep nicely for another three-four years. Pair it with grilled red meat dishes. (RP)

New in Restaurants

****1/2 drink now
Staete Landt 'Estate Grown' Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough $41.55
Sweet plums and smoky notes blow off the nose of the medium-bodied beauty. Expect to be treated to a mélange of fruit flavours in the strawberry, raspberry range. By its nature, Pinot Noir has acidity, but with such powerful fruit characteristics, you barely notice its presence here. Order from Lifford Estates via www.liffordwineagency.com where a handy order form can be accessed. (VH)

Rating System 

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar

Cheers, Vic and Rod