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Rod missed this month's Vintages tasting as he was in southern France and Germany, tasting and spitting his way through vineyards and wineries. He will be back for next month's Vintages Release tasting and will also contribute to the upcoming newsletter.

May 27, 2006 Vintages Release


This release begins with a number of wines from New Zealand. As one would expect, there are a number of excellent Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. Wines are reviewed in the order they appear in the catalogue.

New Zealand: red

*** drink now
Delta Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough, South Island $22.95 (675231)
Sour cherries and cranberries on the nose, this is one of those lean and taut Pinots that has a well balanced, but muted profile of fruit and texture. More Burgundian than new world, this would be well matched to a green salad with a light vinaigrette and chèvre. (VH)

**** drink now
Kim Crawford Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (626390)
Light-bodied and lightly-coloured, this is not light on aromas or flavour. It offers up spicy plum and hints of oak on the nose with flavours in the cherry and black plum spectrum. Well balanced, it delivers a lengthy finish and a touch of elegance. Not many Pinots of this calibre for under $20. Try with planked salmon and dilled potatoes. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Seresin "Leah" Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough, South Island $39.95 (655167)
"Leah" is Seresin's daughter. A lovely and lifted nose of spicy, barnyard and earthy tones leads one into a wine with lots of spunk. Spiced plum and sweet cherry (13.5% alc.) flavours abound while the balance is perfect with ripe tannins and well handled acidity. The finish offers more of the same. This is one classy Kiwi and the price quality ratio is more than fair. This begs for Boeuf Bourgignon, now to 2010. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Te Kairanga Pinot Noir 2004
Martinborough, North Island $22.95 (744946)
Savoury and spicy, this will appeal to those who prefer their Pinot in an "old world" style. Engaging aromas of leather and cranberry waft from the glass of this light-bodied red. Well balanced fruit (cherry and strawberry) flavours intermingle with zesty acidity and drying tannins. The finish is quite stunning and lengthy. This would be the perfect foil to roast chicken or turkey with cranberry sauce. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Wild Earth Pinot Noir 2004
Central Otago, South Island $39.95 (675348)
Rustic and funky, this has endearing characteristics. Lots going on with ripe cherries and tobacco on the nose and layers of fruit (spiced plum, cherry) and savoury notes. This is light to medium-bodied with noticeable tannin and lots of zing on the palate and the lengthy finish. Wild game, venison, would match this satisfactorily. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Wither Hills Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough, South Island $45.95 (919829)
I am certain this would be a "2 glass" wine if Rod were here to taste. Hand harvested, 14 months in French oak, hand plunged and a double trophy winner. A beguiling nose of smoke and ripe fruit is the segue into rich and concentrated fruit flavours of ripe Bing cherry and spicy black plum. There is perfect balance, a lengthy and involved finish and enough verve to keep this going another five years, if you can wait. Drinking deliciously now with smoked duck breasts carved over a green salad and fresh mango. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Oyster Bay Merlot 2005
Hawkes Bay, North Island $19.95 (692343)
Currants and toasty notes form the aromas for this medium-bodied red from Merlot country - Hawkes Bay. Ripe fruit (black currant and black raspberry) has been balanced off with ripe tannins and enough zest to keep it from becoming at all sweet or jammy. The lengthy finish offers up more of the same. Try matched to a beef roast marinated in soy, Worcestershire and garlic. (VH)

New Zealand: white

**** drink now
Gunn Estate Unoaked Chardonnay 2005
Hawkes Bay, North Island $17.95 (694885)
This was fashioned for summer sipping. It is refreshing, clean and delicious. Fresh peach aromatics waft from this medium-bodied white. The flavours are an alluring mélange of tropical fruit, apples with citrus undertones. The finish is zippy, cleansing and irresistible. Quaff on its own or match up to lightly spiced grilled chicken or lemon veal. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Coopers Creek Viognier 2005
Hawkes Bay/Gisborne, North Island $22.95 (694828)
Pleasant floral and honey notes form the aromatic profile while the flavours include rosewater, red licorice and spicy apple. This is medium-bodied with an almost fleshy texture and the dry finish is surprisingly lengthy. This would pair well with grilled and Asian-spiced white fish or spicy prawns. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Babich Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (560144)
The quintessential nose of passion fruit and minerality sets up this medium-bodied SB nicely. The flavour profile is all about ripe fruit flavours (guava, melon and pineapple) that are balanced off with zingy (lemon) acidity. This has excellent structure and balance right through to the clean, laser-like finish. Sip on its own or try with smoked salmon with cream cheese and caper berries. From one of NZs largest family-owned wineries, it now has a 3rd generation Babich at work. The founder, Josip Babich, first planted vines in 1912. Quality to price ratio tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Culley Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (695155)
Mineral and slate on the nose, this medium-bodied quaffer offers lots of herbaceous flavours (canned peas, grass and fresh asparagus) along with fruit in the citrus zone. The tangy finish offers citrus and passion fruit, suggesting a match with pan grilled trout drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

**** drink now
Drylands Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (675405)
The nose of nettles and gooseberry is quite pungent and sets up a SB that has layers of fruit (kiwi, white grapefruit and citrus) and oodles of zest (lemon and lime). This medium-bodied white gets into gear on the lengthy and cleansing finish. It would enjoy being poured with freshly shucked oysters and a squirt of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (963124)
Loved the herbaceous '04, this is riper and richer with a 43% price hike. A lovely nose of passion fruit and pea pods opens the door for a delicious, medium-bodied mouth full of tropical fruit (pineapple and melon) and tangy citrus flavours. This has it all, delicate balance, a lengthy finish and zesty tang coupled with ripe fruit flavours. (VH)

*** drink now
Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (694752)
One of the 'Wines of the Month' in this Vintages Release. Nettles and passion fruit form the aromatic profile of this taut, light-bodied SB. Loads of lemon zest on the palate with a touch of green apple. The finish offers more of the same with a bit of a lime bite at the very end. Try with a salad that is topped with grilled and crumbled chèvre. (VH)

**** drink now
Seifried Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Nelson, South Island $18.95 (957670)
An involved nose of floral and mineral notes set up this light to medium-bodied quaffer. A strong flavour profile of passion fruit and citrus is replayed on the medium finish. Fresh and zingy, this would be a great as a sipper on the patio or a partner to seafood or shell fish aperitifs. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (735043)
The grapes are estate grown, a portion of the wine was barrel fermented, left on the lees and subjected to batonage (lees stirring) then a dash of Semillon was blended in. There is a brioche, nettles and passion fruit nose in this beautifully textured fruit-filled (tangy citrus and tropical fruit) white. This has balance, verve and a zippy finish. Deserves to be enjoyed with mussels steamed in a white wine and garlic broth, now until 2009. (VH)

**** drink now
Tohu Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (723221)
Not unlike Okanagan's Nk'Mip, this is the first winery owned and operated by Maoris, the indigenous tribes of NZ. The nose is lifted, sassy and grassy. This light to medium-bodied SB possesses pleasant passion fruit and gooseberry flavours and simply shines in a unique and lovely finish offering flavours of mint, flint and zesty citrus. Try with pasta and pesto sauce along with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. (VH)

U.S.A.: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kistler Chardonnay 2004
Sonoma Coast $79.95 (642710)
This is as good as anything that Burgundy can offer. Toasty oak and spiced apple blow off the fragrant nose of this perfectly balanced, medium-bodied gem. It is beautifully structured with layers of tropical fruit, citrus and vanilla flavours that are complemented by a creamy texture and zesty spine of tang. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Gorgeous now, it will improve over the next 3 years and hold for 3 more. (VH)

U.S.A.: red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Rodney Strong Merlot 2002
Sonoma County $24.95 (497933)
Spicy plum and vanilla aromas lead the taster to a nicely built, medium-bodied red. Cranberry and sour cherry flavours predominate and the overall impression is clean and refreshing. Try it with lightly herbed and spiced roast beef au jus. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tin Barn Vineyards "Dalraddy Vineyard" Zinfandel 2003
Napa Valley $41.95 (682997)
From 30 year old vines, this is a ripper. Spicy brambleberry and vanilla (from 40% new American oak barrels) aromas blast from this sweet (15.1% alc.) fruit bomb. Layers of black cherry and dark chocolate flavours cascade from the glass. The lengthy and luxurious finish is a variation on the theme. Very rich and dense, not for the faint of heart. 310 cases made. Needs something big, try Creole-spiced jambalaya now to 2009. (VH)

Australia: white

**** drink now
Ninth Island Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Tasmania $19.95 (606897)
Aromas of passion fruit, mineral and grassy notes mark this a cool climate offering. On the beautifully textured palate there is a full fruit-forward attack of sweet melon, Bosc pear and mint. The finish is clean and well balanced. Pair this to lightly buttered and sautéed asparagus spears wrapped in prosciutto. (VH)

Australia: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Elderton Vineyard Series "Friends" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Barossa $17.95 (595389)
Elderton, better known for Shiraz - "Best Shiraz in the World - 1996", also know how to make Cab. They won the Jimmy Watson for their 1992. The plum and vanilla notes off the nose quickly dissolve into rich, racy, complex flavours of sweet (14.5% alc.) ripe cherries, savoury and tobacco. The luxurious finish has mocha and berry fruit. Drink now to 2010 with grilled medium-rare beef steak. After I get mine, you can stock up. (VH)

**** drink now
Heath Wines "Lizard Flat" Shiraz 2003
South Australia $11.95 (678755)
A fairly subdued nose of plums and mint, but the palate opens up nicely to a crowd pleaser with sweet, ripe cherry and berry fruit along with a spicy long sweet berry finish. This won't be accused of being elegant, but it is straightforward and a perfect match for pizza, pasta in a tomato-based sauce or burgers. A great price - purchase a few. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Redbank "The Fugitive" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Victoria $20.95 (678227)
We need to see more reds from Victoria and this wine makes that argument a strong one. From the warm, sweet fruity (minty cherry) nose through to the well balanced finish, this is a lovely textured, beautifully structured wine. More restrained than robust, it offers a medium-bodied drop with good grip from ripe tannins and layers of deftly balanced fruit (more cherry and black currant) and acidity. Drink now to 2012 with confidence or with a grilled medium-rare strip loin. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Sandalford "Element" Shiraz/Cabernet 2004
Western Australia $15.95 (683904)
From a respected and premium WA winery, this is a "well" wine - well made, well priced and well worth a purchase. It is one delicious mouthful of juicy, ripe black fruit with a sprig of mint blended in. It is smooth and approachable, but also has a bit of oomph from deftly handled oak, ripe tannins and nice dash of tang. The lengthy finish suggests rack of lamb with mint sauce on the side. At this price you can stock up. (VH)

France: white

**** drink now
Les Vignerons de Pfaffenheim "Cuvée Bacchus" Gewürztraminer 2004
AOC Alsace $19.95 (996017)
This opens with a beguiling and involved nose of rosewater, spiced apple and orange notes. It is medium-bodied, racy, full of sweet (13.5% alc.) fruit flavours of spiced pear and nectarine.  It possesses that spectacular sweet/sour, yin and yang synergy that matches spicy Asian dishes so perfectly, keeping you coming back for more. Good value. (VH)

France: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château d'Aiguilhe 2003
AOC Côtes de Castillon $47.95 (593418) (594119) (594051) (594697)
This may be found under multiple LCBO numbers. It opens with a medicinal cherry nose then revs it up with a huge concentration of flavours (black currant, mocha and vanilla). The grippy tannins will welcome additional time in the cellar, but there is ample fruit (black cherry and plum) to balance. The overall effect now is a delicious, but drying mouthful of red that delivers a stunning mid-palate experience. The lengthy and luxurious finish is a portend of great drinking now, with grilled rare steak, and onward to 2015. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château Haut-Carles 2003
AOC Fronsac $44.95 (587626)
A lovely perfumed nose opens up this medium to full-bodied beauty. This wine, and others in this release, showcase a scorching hot '03 vintage that some wine makers handled very well. Floral and spice aromas waft from the glass of this full-bodied keeper. Layers of sweet cherry, vanilla, milk chocolate and tarry flavours wash over the palate while ripe tannins give it structure and balance. The lengthy finish offers more of the same. Drinking now to 2015. (VH)

***1/2 cellar
Château Sénéjac "Karolus" 2003
AOC Haut-Médoc $55.95 (599530)
Cassis and mint aromas form the nose of this medium-bodied red that needs some time in the cellar. Flavours are on the sour cherry and tart cranberry side while the tannins are noticeable and grippy. It delivers a medium to full-bodied red with a medium length finish of strawberry and earthy tones. Drink 2010 to 2015. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Château de Gourgazaud Réserve 2002
AOC Minervois la Livinière $16.95 (986083)
Sweet ripe fruit and spicy aromas form the segue to a soft and easy drinking red. The flavours are rich and sweet with strawberry and raspberry compote to the fore. This has no rough edges and would be a good choice for a large gathering where you are serving grilled meats. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Pesquie "Les Terrasses" 2003
AOC Côtes du Ventoux $13.95 (652313)
Toasty oak and spicy fruit aromas set up this full-bodied red. It delivers full bore fruit flavours of juicy, black cherry, spicy plum and cassis. The tannins are firm, ripe and prevent the wine from becoming a monochromatic fruit bomb. It has balance, delicious fruit, deftly handled oak and a spine of zest that coalesce into a lengthy finish. Worthy of a case or more purchase as the quality to price ratio is tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret 2003
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $16.95 (682476) 375 mL
A fragrant nose of spice and tar greet the taster while the flavours are a cornucopia of ripe, sweet berry, currant and garrigue. This medium-bodied red is silky smooth, even hedonistic. It delivers more of the same - good balance, ripe fruit, supple and ripe tannin - on the lovely finish. Try now to 2010 with a lamb daube. (VH)

**** drink now
Perrin Réserve Rosé 2004
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $13.95 (719062)
This iridescent pink multi-blend rosé (60% Cinsault, 20% Syrah, 15% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre) delivers an aromatic and lifted nose of strawberry and sour cherry. It is a classy number that offers layers of flavour (currant and sweet cranberry) on the medium-bodied palate and has enough grip and texture to make it a serious candidate for spiced grilled chicken or cold cuts. A lot of wine for the money. (VH)

Italy: red

**** drink or cellar
Carpineto "Dogajolo" 2004
IGT Toscano $19.95 (461897)
One of the 'Wines of the Month' in this Vintages Release. Oak, smoke and blackberry aromas form the lifted nose on this medium-bodied Sangiovese, Cab. Sauv. blend.. The melange of flavours include cherry, tar and dark chocolate and they are held together nicely with still noticeable tannins. The finish is just as involved and medium in length. Drink now to 2010 with a rich and creamy osso bucco. (VH)

**** drink now
Castello di Querceto Riserva 2001
DOCG Chianti Classico $27.95 (650754)
Lots of aromatics (coffee, mocha, currant) drift from the lifted nose of this medium to full-bodied red. It has the deft touch of a well made wine with everything in balance - ripe fruit flavours of spiced plum and red currant, nicely handled oak, and a spine of acidity that adds to the wine, but does not overpower it. The finish is equally delicious with ripe berry fruit showing through. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Ornellaia 2002
DOC Bolgheri $139.95 (722470)
Lots of oak and smoke off the nose coupled with fruit aromas of cassis and minty black cherry. Drying tannins, a fruit forward attack of black raspberry and licorice and a streak of reasonable acidity mark this a Herculean effort in a cool and damp vintage. Drink 2008 to 2015 with any manner of grilled steak. (VH)

**** drink now
Selvole Sangiovese 2003
IGT Toscana $13.95 (682377)
It begins with a quiet nose of violets and spiced plum then takes off with gorgeous fruit flavours of cranberry, tar and black licorice. Well balanced and nicely structured, it is well made with a fruity (black currant) finish. Worth a multiple bottle buy. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Brigaldara Valpolicella Classico 2003
DOC Valpolicella Classico $11.95 (917864)
This is sweet, jammy and very easy to drink. It has no pretensions to greatness or elegance, but is a wine for serving to large crowds of friends at a backyard burger party when you are footing the bill. Or just for yourself, if it rains and the party is cancelled. Just when you thought the days of quaffable red wine for under $12 were gone. (VH)

Portugal: red

**** drink or cellar
Aliança Quinta da Garrida 2000
DOC Dão $15.95 (683698)
From one of the better Portuguese red wine regions, this offers cassis and raspberry aromas, followed by black, juicy, sweet fruit flavours on the medium-bodied palate. Although the fruit is certainly sweet, it is not jammy and the nervy finish is glorious with berry fruit, licorice and tar notes. Great value for this classy wine. (VH)

Spain: white

***1/2 drink now
Val de Vid Condesa EyloVerdejo 2004
DO Rueda $13.95 (673525)
Aromas reminiscent of a NZ Sauvignon Blanc (nettles, mineral, gooseberry) set up this light to medium-bodied white. The flavours are pleasing and in the white peach, pear and Granny Smith apple zones. The finish is unique, lengthy and I detected more grassiness and a bit of black licorice to match the fruit. Well priced to pair with lighter fare such as chicken and veal dishes. (VH)

Spain: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bodegas Luzón "Altos de Luzón" 2003
DO Jumilla $22.95 (685214)
A candidate for "2 glasses" were Rod here to taste. Descriptors like huge, spectacular and delicious roll around your mind while this beauty rolls around your palate. It is opaque and inky in the glass. Black currant and smoky notes drift from this medium-bodied, silky smooth red. Flavours include black currant, tar and garrigue while the finish is a replay of these along with ripe tannin. Well made, gutsy and extremely well priced. (VH)

Rating System 

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar

Cheers, Vic and Rod