Wolf Blass Shiraz 2001
South Australia $24.95 (348540)
Eucalyptus and black currant aromas gush from the glass. There are gobs of rich black cherries, tar and peppery plums on the palate plus good grip from ripe, but perceptible tannins. Yes, it’s a hedonistic fruit explosion, but it also displays some elegance, good structure and wonderful balance. No wild boar on hand? Rack of lamb or grilled pepper steak should work well. (VH/RP)

Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Reserva 1999
DOCG Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy $32.95 (650754)
Aromatics suggestive of blueberries, currants and leather provide a smooth entry into the deep rich flavours of cassis laced with black pepper. The structure is somewhat taut and brisk suggesting it would marry extremely well with pasta and a bolognaise sauce. Well priced. (VH)

Dufouleur Père et Fils “Clos du Chapitre” Fixin 1er Cru 2000
AOC Fixin 1er Cru, Burgundy, France $57.95 (641746)
Fixin (pronounced ‘fee-sung’) is a small commune, in the northern half of Burgundy’s famed Côte de Nuits, that produces well-structured, well-focused Pinot Noirs. This one is very elegant, with characteristic ripe cherry and plum flavours with light spice, and earthy/gamey notes. The fruit forms a pure core that’s lifted by good acidity, the tannins are light and fine, and the finish is good. This is for drinking now (with duck breast, I think) and over the next three or four years. (RP)

Eos Estate “The French Connection” 2001
Paso Robles, California $23.95 (642256)
A lovely, elegant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%), Cabernet Franc (30%) and Merlot (18%), which is probably the French connection. (You can’t mention the word “Bordeaux” now.). It’s full-on complex dark fruit, with a generous texture, drying tannins, and a long finish. Very well made and a good partner for nothing less than rich red meat dishes. (RP)

Henry of Pelham Unfiltered Pinot Noir 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (28391)
Another elegant red from this highly-regarded Niagara winery. This Pinot Noir has lovely flavours of sweet, ripe cherries, set of with spicy, earthy notes. It’s medium bodied and the fruit is lifted by good acidity. Well-made and well-priced, this calls out for flavourful food, and goes very well with medium-rare grilled lamb. (RP)

Ironstone “Leaping Horse Vineyards” Chardonnay 2003
Lodi, California $13.05 (909796)
Growers for almost 50 years and owning 5000 acres in Lodi, puts these folks at the top of the heap in this AVA. Intriguing aromatics of apple compote, poached pear and vanilla segue into huge Granny Smith apple and peel marmalade flavours. A likeable medium-bodied white with a scrumptious finish that is well made, well balanced and well… incredible value. (VH)

Ironstone “Leaping Horse Vineyards” Merlot 2002
Lodi, California $13.05 (909812)
A robust nose of raspberry jam and black plums leads the way to a concentrated fruit bomb of flavours including cassis, mocha and licorice. This crowd pleaser has silky tannins and a lengthy warm finish reminiscent of dark spiced fruit cake. Is alluring enough to sip on its own, yet has enough character to match spiced and herbed red meat. Superb value. (VH/RP)

Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Grand Reserve 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (587691)
A classy sparkling wine displaying quite forward aromatics of brioche and apple dumpling underpinned by leesy nuances. Strong attack of mousse characterized by lemon zest and bracing acidity. Elegant and extremely well balanced, this Méthode Classique (made in the manner of Champagne ) is vinified using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. (VH)

Jacuzzi Family Vineyard Merlot 2002
Los Carneros, California $36.95 (958819)
A delicious Merlot with concentrated, dense dark fruit (crushed berries and plum to the fore) with complex notes of spice, pepper, coffee and chocolate. It’s full bodied, generous, and has a long, long finish. Pair this with hefty food, like grilled rack of lamb and a berry salsa. (RP)

Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages 2003
AOC Beaujolais-Villages, France $15.95 (365924)
Gamay at its best in a Beaujolais with breeding. Red currant, cranberry and grapey aromatics set up this light-to-medium-bodied, well structured red. From select vineyards, the fruit yields lovely red currant and cranberry flavours plus good acidity, making it a natural for fowl with cranberry sauce. Serve slightly chilled. (VH)

Matakana Estate Pinot Gris 2003
Auckland, New Zealand $23.95 (904243)
One of the foremost wineries in the emerging region north of Auckland, Matakana Estate has quickly established a reputation for doing things right. This is a luscious, mouth-filling Pinot Gris, with pungent peach and apricot flavours in elegant equilibrium with the acidity. It’s screwcap-sealed for freshness. I’m always fascinated by the detailed food-pairings on Matakana’s back labels. This one suggests Golden Bay scallops wrapped in prosciutto, lightly sautéed and served on a bed of lime-scented cous-cous or a salmon and crayfish terrine. Either sounds good to me. (RP)

Perrin & Fils Rasteau 2002
AOC Rasteau, Côtes du Rhône Villages, France $16.95 (976845)
An extremely perfumed nose of, well... perfume. This is a guaranteed crowd pleaser from the musky, floral nose through to the lengthy luxuriating finish of plums with a good dollop of balancing acidity. It offers a generous helping of full fruit flavours (raspberry jam, black cherries and plums) in a beautifully textured delivery. Great to quaff or try with Shepherd’s Pie. Well priced. (VH)

Cesar Pisano ‘RPF’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Coastal Region, Uruguay $24.95 (642231)
Is Uruguay the next Chile for wine lovers? With fruit sourced near Montevideo, this red is quite aromatic and typicity abounds with cassis and mint wafting from the glass. The palate is quite warm and sweet, but there is considerable structure along with perceptible, smooth, ripe tannins. It’s about what you’d pay for a decent California Cab and although it is a nuance or two behind in overall delivery, it is a unique experience and worth every penny. (VH)

Rocca delle Macie ‘Riserva di Fizzano’ Chianti Classico 1998
DOCG Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy $42.95 (650564)
You will have to wait a bit for this one as the firm, dusty tannins will take time to smooth out. The bramble-fruit lifted nose includes tar and leather. There is a hint of the future is in this hugely textured fruit friendly bruiser. The long rustic finish is a great sign. Fairly pricey, but priced fairly. (VH)

Bodega Salentein Malbec 2002
Alto Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina $16.95 (640854)
Smoke and oak are the first aromas up before the cherries and red licorice kick in. Originally from Bordeaux, Malbec has certainly found its niche in Argentina . This medium-bodied offering has no angles or corners with its smooth, creamy texture, soft pit fruit flavours and silky finish. This fruity red would be a wonderful entry point for a novice Malbec imbiber. (VH)