***1/2 drink or cellar

Calamus Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.00 12.9% alcohol
This opens with aromas of mint, dark berry fruit and savoury spice leading to a racy mouthful of flavour—sour cherry and exotic Asian spice. This is medium bodied with a firm tannin structure. The finish layers on some delightful ripe berry tones. Aerate / decant for two hours then pour with rare to medium-rare grilled red meat. Two more years of age will boost this up the star ladder. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Calamus Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $23.00 12.6% alcohol
The quiet nose offers berry fruit and tobacco aromas while the palate’s treated to a fresh and lively stream of red berry fruit flavour underpinned by a racy spine of acidity. Everything’s wrapped in a firm tannin structure at present—18 months in French oak barrels, but there’s enough fruit to predict this softening up to provide good drinking after 2010; be patient. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Calamus Estate Winery ‘Barrel Aged’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.00 12.6% alcohol
Alluring aromas of lemon-lime sherbet and floral nuances drift from the nose of this medium-bodied silky-smooth, almost creamy, wine. It’s from a very good vintage and the ultra-ripe flavours showcase it—caramel apple, sweet succulent pear and ripe citrussy acidity—while the 18 months in French oak has been well integrated. It finishes nicely balanced with solid fruit flavours and mouth-watering tang. Pour it alongside prawns, pan-seared in butter and garlic. Purchase by the mixed case of six, with daily home or office delivery, from Calamus. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Calamus Estate Winery Pinot Gris 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.50 12.2% alcohol
(Previously, and mistakenly, reviewed as a 2007 in winecurrent) A plethora of lifted aromas jump from the glass of this full-bodied, generously textured silver medal winner at the All Canadian Wine Championship. Exotic Asian spice, honeydew melon and honeyed pear aromas provide segue to sweet fruit flavours exploding on the palate—Mirabelle plum, poached pear and lemon drop candy among them. It finishes sweet and spicy with a bit of spritz. Purchase by the mixed case of six, with daily home or office delivery, from Calamus. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Colio Estate Wines ‘CEV Lily’ Pinot Noir Sparkling 2007
VQA Ontario $16.35 11.5% alcohol
This is a pleasing and colourful—almost ruby red—sparkling wine that delivers delightful mouthfuls of bubbles and fun. There’s a load of flavour in the fizz—strawberry, raspberry and candy floss. It finishes dry with a clean and refreshing crispness. Serve as an aperitif or pair with chicken or veal appetizers. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Colio or pick up a bottle from one of their 14 Ontario retail stores. (Vic Harradine)

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Colio Estate Wines ‘CEV Reserve’ Riesling 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $15.35 11.5% alcohol
Tantalizing green apple, mineral and honeyed pear aromas waft from this medium-bodied very generously textured gem. There’s an explosion of flavours on the palate with tropical fruit, lemon-lime sherbet and sweet succulent yellow peach among them. The finish turns crisp and refreshing with a lovely surge of ripe citrussy tang. This is well focused and deftly balanced making it a willing partner with spicy Asian cuisine like pad Thai and green curry chicken. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Colio or pick up a bottle from one of their 14 Ontario retail stores. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Coyote’s Run Pinot Blanc 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.00 13% alcohol
Only 270 cases produced, less remain. There’s a roomful of spice and floral aromas as it gets in gear to treat the palate to a lip-smacking array of tang and flavour with nectarine, mango, sweet pear and moderating citrus acidity to the fore. It’s slightly off-dry, medium bodied and silky smooth. The finish delivers that sweet and tang that pairs so well with friends on the deck during the day and with spicy Asian cuisine during the evening meal. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Coyote’s Run or Winery to Home. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Coyote’s Run ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2008
VQA Four Mile Creek $18.00 13% alcohol
From a very limited production, less than 300 cases remain; you’ll need to be quick off the mark to snag some. Spice box, mineral and floral on the nose, this provides a delicious imbibing experience with mouth-filling flavours of succulent peach, pear and honeyed apple. It’s light to medium bodied, nicely textured and delivers a crisp bone-dry finish of ripe citrussy tang. Give this a go with a creamy cheese like brie. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Coyote’s Run or Winery to Home. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Coyote’s Run ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Syrah 2007
VQA Four Mile Creek $24.00 12.5%% alcohol
This is aptly named ‘Syrah’ rather than ‘Shiraz’ as it has the structure and elegance Syrah from the northern Rhône often displays. Look for a lifted nose of toasty notes, black pepper and mixed spice. The flavours wash over the palate and provide a steady stream through the well-balanced lengthy finish—ripe mulberry, red cherry and spiced black plum. The oak treatment—14 months in French and American barrels—has been deftly integrated and the ripe supple tannin adds underpinning and structure. Pair with grilled lamb tenderloins rubbed with garlic butter. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Coyote’s Run or Winery to Home. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Lailey Vineyard ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 13% alcohol
There’s a sense of purpose and purity of flavour displayed in this wine—it’s the level to which well-made Chardonnay, without the usual adornment of oak ageing, can aspire. There’s a lovely array of aromas and flavours including crisp green apple, sweet ripe pear, tropical fruit and crisp lemony tang. The texture is satiny smooth and the finish lingering, clean and refreshing. Pour this alongside lightly breaded and skillet-seared calamari under a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Lailey Vineyard ‘Canadian Oak’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara River $35.00 13% alcohol
Aged in Canadian white oak, this Pinot is complex and compelling with a subtle nose of earthiness, floral and fennel notes. The stream of fruit-driven flavour includes fresh red cherry, tangy cranberry and strawberry—there’s a ton of fruit without being jammy. It’s quite nicely textured and sports a clean refreshing finish redolent of cherry clafoutie. This really shines in the light of the dinner table; for a treat, pour it alongside coq au vin. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)