**** drink now
Cave Spring Cellars Estate Gamay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (228569) 13.5% alcohol
Deeply hued, this is a Gamay of character. The ripe fruit aromas are overlaid with vegetal and smoky nuances. There’s depth of fruit and complexity on the palate—cherry and pomegranate—with spicy, peppery notes and a smoky, vegetal note. Dry, medium bodied, the wine is nicely balanced with fresh acidity, perceptible tannin and a warm, peppery, lengthy finish. It earns an extra half star for value—a great match with BBQ chicken or pizza. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Union ‘White’ 2009
VQA Ontario $13.95 (197145) 12.0% alcohol
Pale straw with some green hues, this blend of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay is from Generations Wine Company, a venture of Dr. Allan Jackson, of Jackson-Triggs and Vincor renown, and Andrew von Teichmann, sommelier, formerly of Pelee Island Winery and Vincor. This is a virtual winery with Dr. Jackson blending select wines from a short list of Niagara VQA wineries. He’s crafted a blend that combines delicate notes of citrus and nettle with crisp, spicy, lip-smacking fresh fruit—green apple, grapefruit and lemon-lime. Medium bodied with good length and a refreshing finish, this wine delivers. (Susan Desjardins)