**** drink now
Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris 2003
VQA Okanagan Valley $32 (approx.) (585745)
From one of BC's premier producers, this Pinot Gris shows all the best traits of the breed. It's a little quiet on the nose, but the palate opens up into a variety of quite luscious fruit in the apricot-peach zones. There's that touch of spiciness to keep it interesting, fine balance, and a long, clean finish. It's beautiful with lightly-spiced seafood, chicken or pork dishes. Order from MCO Wines at www.mcowines.com. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Lammershoek Roulette Rouge 2003
WO Swartland, South Africa
A Shiraz/Carignan/Grenache blend from low yields, greater than usual day-night temperature gradients and extraordinary long hours of sunshine produced this stunner. A lifted nose of cedar and berries leads the way to a fruit forward attack of bramble berry, mint and chocolate. The finish is gorgeous, going for 30 or more seconds, with pronounced red licorice, tar and coffee flavours. Order from Bokke Inc. at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. .(VH)

**** drink or cellar
Lammershoek "Barrique" Pinotage 2003
WO Coastal Region, South Africa $23.50
I'm not a big fan of many Pinotages: those charry-tarry notes can be overpowering. But here's a Pinotage for the likes of me. It's finely-layered, reasonably complex, and characterized by rich, dark and spicy plum and berry flavours. The balance is very good, and I would happily down a bottle of this with a good cut of red meat, grilled medium-rare. Contact Bokke Inc. at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Viljoensdrift "River Grandeur" Shiraz 2003
WO Robertson, South Africa $24.50
Another terrific Shiraz from South Africa. This is full bodied with concentrated, pungent, dark fruit (berry, cherry) flavours enlivened by peppery spiciness. Well structured and nicely balanced, it's a great partner for well-seasoned grilled lamb. Contact Bokke Inc. at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..(RP)