by Vic Harradine
Winecurrent recently attended a tasting of South African wines at SOIF wine bar and eatery in Gatineau, Québec. The tasting of 12 wines was led by Will Predhomme, the 2010 Best Sommelier in Ontario Award winner and current candidate for Master Sommelier, with able assistance from a group of South African winemakers and winery principals. There were prominent Sommeliers from the National Capital Region in attendance at the event arranged by Wines of South Africa.
Will shared his well-researched views on the incredible strides South African wine has taken in the last decade, especially the last three to five years, in diversity, quality and value for money—the wines we tasted overwhelmingly bore out his analysis.
He referenced the present, mind-numbing diversity of South Africa winegrowing regions, districts and wards. He and the winemakers present had a much better idea for those, including yours truly, who struggle to make sense of the complexity. Pour yourself a glass and make your own judgments, free of restrictive and preconceived ideas. One might take that advice for all wine, and no better place to start than the next paragraph.
The recently opened SOIF Bar à Vin, 88 rue Montcalm, Gatineau, Québec accepts reservations 819-600-7643 open Mon.-Thur. 11:30 am – 10:00 pm; Fri. 11:30 am – 11:00 pm; Saturday 4:00 pm – 11:00 pm; Sunday 4:00 pm – 10:00 pm. The wine bar and eatery is the brainchild of sommelier extraordinaire, Véronique Rivest. Véronique placed second at the most recent ‘Best Sommelier in The World’ competition. She oversaw the restaurant’s renovation; it’s wine-themed and contemporary. There are compelling reasons to drop by soon. SOIF, translated as thirst or thirsty, conveys a convivial ambiance—in the evening, quite romantic—with a meticulously chosen wine list and many wines by the glass. There’s well-trained, friendly staff and a perfectly managed menu of creative dishes and small plates—beautifully presented, delicious and seductive.
The following four, value-laden wines were amongst those tasted, the first two available at the SAQ, the Glen Carlou has limited availability by the case by Private Order for Québec residents via the wine agency Societe Commerciale Clement and the Nederburg by the case of 6 for Ontario residents from Mark Anthony Brands wine agency.
M.A.N. Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
WO Western Cape $14.95 (10802832) 14.0% alcohol
This is an outstanding red punching well above the price and delivering a steady stream of balanced fruit with structure and charm. Aromas of black briary berry, spice and mocha open the floodgates for a mid-plus weight, balanced and beautiful stream of cassis, mulberry and dark cherry flavour bathing the palate, gracing the lingering, lip-smacking finish. It’s ready to drink and pairs well with grilled steak, burgers and roasted red meats. (Vic Harradine)
Ricardo Larivée Shiraz 2012
WO Western Cape $16.95 (12231682) 14.0% alcohol
This dishes up an amalgam of flavours with excellent tang and rich luscious fruit to the fore. Dark berry fruit and pomegranate interweave with notions of roasted herbs and fennel on the palate. It’s medium bodied with creamy smooth texture and lengthy aftertaste replaying flavours framed with excellent mouth-watering acidity. It’s nicely balanced with oodles of fruit and leaves one wishing for more—each sip is as good, or better, than the previous. (Vic Harradine)
Glen Carlou ‘Quartz Stone’ Chardonnay 2012
WO Paarl $32.00 13.0% alcohol
Fashioned from a single vineyard and 25-year-old vines, this flagship Chardonnay’s named for the unique soils of quartz and decomposed granite. It’s barrel fermented and aged in 90% new French oak with the remainder in an avant garde Nomblot concrete, egg-shaped vessel. Aromas of caramel apple and spiced lemon curd herald a creamy smooth wash of baked apple, nutty notes and vibrant acidity—balanced, delicious and mouth-watering. It’s medium-plus bodied with a monumental aftertaste. This was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)
Nederburgh ‘Manor House’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
WO Paarl $16.95 14.5% alcohol
This was sourced from two, prime, dry-farmed sites in Paarl— hand picked, low-yielding, small-berried fruit. Aromas of black currant, baking spice and mocha introduce a stylish river of dark berry fruit, cassis and black, juicy Bing cherry robed in bittersweet chocolate. Medium-full bodied with good structure and satin-smooth texture the finish is fruit-forward, dry and lingering. There’s purity of fruit and hours of pleasure here. (Vic Harradine)