April 7, 2014 Newsletter

Highlights include:

• Exceptional value wines – 8 of 38 wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines; 4 in the Main Release, the balance follow, identified by the icon. What are the strict, quality-price guidelines? Go to www.winecurrent.com and click on the ‘Rating System’ tab. 
• Susan’s Selections – Lailey Chardonnay 2012, 4½ stars @ $19.95, under Ontario: White Wine; Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2013, 4 stars @ $14.95 under New in Vintages following Main Release; Château des Charmes ‘Cuvée d’Andrée’ Rosé 2013, 4 stars @ $14.95 under New in Ontario Wineries after Main Release. 
• Vic’s Picks – Donatoni Massenà ‘Appassimento’ 2010, 4 stars @ $15.95 in the Appassimento Feature; Perrin & Fils ‘Réserve’ Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2012, 4 stars @ $14.95 under France: White Wine. 
• 5-star wines – None managed to ring the 5-star bell in this newsletter. 

Susan Desjardins recently traveled to South Africa tasting and spitting her way through wineries and wine regions. She advises, ‘If the opportunity to visit South Africa and the wineries of the Western Cape presents, don't let it pass you by. The winemakers, the wines, the scenery and the chefs are all impressive, as you’ll see from the tales and tasting notes from my trip.’ Read about it here…

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

Apr 12, 2014 Vintages Release

Feature: Appassimento Wine

Bertani ‘Villa Novare’ Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010
DOC Valpolicella $19.95 (95810) 13.5% alcohol
Let the subtle aromas of campfire smoke, cedar, cherries and berries tantalize while the nice fresh texture delights. Dry, medium-full bodied, supple tannins underpin the berries and cherries garnished with notes of chocolate and dried herbs. Very tasty, generous and flavourful, the wine finishes long and dry. Enjoy with mushroom arrosto. (Susan Desjardins)


Donatoni Massenà ‘Appassimento’ 2010
IGT Rosso Veneto $15.95 (332403) 14.5% alcohol
For my money, this is terrific value for a drink-me-now red—it’s nicely textured, balanced and bursting with fruit. Cherry and currant aromas on the nose, it coats the palate with a river of ripe, dark, bramble berry, fig and black plum compote mingling with kitchen spice and roasted herbs. Good weight and the balanced and beautiful aftertaste is icing on the cake—pick up a few for summer and fall barbecues. (Vic Harradine)


Lena di Mezzo Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010
DOC Valpolicella $18.95 (165662) 14.0% alcohol
Ruby purple, this classic blend showcases menthol, dried herbs, earth, smoke and red fruits. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s subtle underpinnings create a firm yet satiny texture, the lovely lush, ripe fruit paired with smoky toast, spice and a touch of licorice. The flavourful fruit and toasty notes persist on the lasting finish. Enjoy with grilled sausages or barbecued chicken with a zesty tomato sauce. (Susan Desjardins)


Michele Castellani ‘Colle Cristi’ Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2008
DOC Valpolicella $45.95 (222109) 15.5% alcohol
Principally Corvina, blended with Rondinella and Molinara, this beautifully crafted Amarone offers up floral notes and aromas of ripe fruit, spice, mineral and earth. Dry, full bodied, generous yet structured with ripe tannins, there’s depth of juicy ripe fruit, notions of dry fruit and hints of dark chocolate and toast. Long and dry on the finish, it’s beautifully balanced and a candidate for long-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Sherry

Williams & Humbert ‘Walnut Brown Rare Old Brown’ Oloroso

Jerez, Spain $13.95 (437467) 19.5% alcohol
What a treat - what a bargain. Dark amber with tinges of green on the edges; the aromas are divine with dark raisin, caramel and fig predominant. Warm and sweet on the palate, look for the aromas to follow through to flavours plus some lovely spice and nutty notes. The long sweet finish of this dessert wine cries out for spiced nut cake or ginger snaps. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Domaine Allimant-Laugner ‘Brut’ Crémant d’Alsace

AOC Alsace $17.95 (30593) 12.5% alcohol
A pretty straw hue, this lively engaging blend of Auxerrois and Riesling offers a trace of yeast and fresh fruity aromas of pear and citrus. The mousse is fine and refreshing, the fruit replaying on the palate and extending through a clean tangy finish. This is a great aperitif wine. (Susan Desjardins)


Cathedral Cellars 'Methode Cap Classique' Brut

WO Western Cape $16.95 (296426 ) 11.5% alcohol
Produced from a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this refined sparkling wine spent 24 months on the lees and offers a clean, crisp profile and fine, persistent mousse. Dry, light-medium bodied, it's defined by notes of almond biscuit, green apple, citrus and mineral. There's a tangy note of lemon zest on the extended, refreshingly dry finish. This is a great choice to celebrate with friends or enjoy with a light meal. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

Lailey Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (193482) 13.5% alcohol
Pale gold, this is a lovely, well-balanced Chardonnay showcasing appealing aromas of toasted hazelnut, vanilla, spice, citrus and stone fruit. Dry, on the full side of medium bodied, lush fruit combines with a finely honed backbone of citrus acidity and nutty, toasty notes to create a balanced and well-integrated wine. The finish is creamy, tasty and long. Enjoy with your Easter ham or roast turkey. (Susan Desjardins)


Malivoire Gewürztraminer 2012
VQA Beamsville Bench $24.95 (542522) 13.0% alcohol
A pale gold-green, this off-dry, medium-bodied wine offers aromas and flavours of tropical fruit, sweet spice, citrus and rosewater. Bright acidity dances harmoniously with the fruit, while the finish is rich and delightfully spicy. A great match for East Asian cuisine, or roast ham with a pineapple glaze. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

Featherstone Rosé 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (117861) 13.0% alcohol
Salmon pink, this is a classic, dry, light-medium bodied Niagara rosé with a juicy fresh texture. Lively, tasty red fruits grace the nose and palate—strawberry-rhubarb compote and cherry—while an attractive note of herb-infused roasted red pepper tantalizes. Clean, refreshing and fruity on the finish, you can enjoy this versatile wine chilled on its own or with salads, grilled fish, pork or chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

Rosewood Estates ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $39.95 (318345) 13.5% alcohol
Red and black berry aromas merge seamlessly with herbal notes, spice and a whiff of mineral. Dry, on the full side of medium bodied, exhibiting the warm vintage in the intense flavours of blackberry, raspberry and currant, the wine offers great impact and intensity. Notions of cinnamon toast come through on the warm, tasty finish. Well paced and balanced, you’ll enjoy this wine with pork tenderloin with a burgundy sauce. (Susan Desjardins)


Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Cabernet/Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.95 (130252) 13.0% alcohol
Tawse wines consistently offer quality and value and here’s another example with floral notes garnishing aromas of berries, spice, earth and herbs. Dry, medium bodied, the wine combines a clean, lively texture with subtle tannins and tasty fresh berry and plum flavours. Spice, pepper and attractive notes of toast overlay the fruit and linger on the dry finish. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

First Press Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Napa Valley $22.95 (188110) 14.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this dry, full-bodied Cabernet offers classic aromas of cassis, cedar, spice and herbs. The structure is subtle, balancing the ripe black fruit, while a touch of dark chocolate and hints of smoke and toast add complexity. Very tasty and flavourful, this is an appealing, approachable wine. (Susan Desjardins)

Oregon: White Wine

Bachelder ‘Oregon’ Chardonnay 2011
Willamette Valley $29.95 (273334) 13.0% alcohol
Subtle nutty notes blend with beguiling notions of peach cobbler, apple tart and vanilla. Dry, medium bodied, this wine is finely balanced with a touch of spice paired with toasty notes and ripe orchard fruit. The refined backbone comes through in a trace of zesty lime through the finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

Dominio del Plata ‘Crios’ Malbec 2012
Mendoza $13.95 (162529) 14.0% alcohol
Opaque purple, this wine displays lovely menthol notes mingling with dark fruit and notions of smoke, earth and spice. Dry, full bodied, subtle structure frames quite lush dark berry and plum fruit. The smoky, spicy notes replay with hints of coffee lingering on the finish. It’s a good match for grilled back ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

Montes ‘Limited Selection’ Carmenère 2011
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley $14.95 (256685) 13.5% alcohol
This is another intensely purple wine exhibiting lifted aromas that include pepper, dried herbs, black berry and spice. Dry, full bodied, the core of black fruit is accented by smoke, coffee, earth and spice. Well framed and showing good complexity, the wine has a lasting dry, tasty, fruity finish. It’s a match for grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)


Perez Cruz ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Maipo Valley $8.95 (311753) 13.5% alcohol (375ml)
A half bottle of this wine may not be enough! On the nose, enjoy the aromas of coffee, cedar, dried herbs, pepper and that oh-so-ripe black fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine displays a firm structure, with perceptible tannins and fine acidity. There’s good complexity in the flavours—juicy blackberry, tasty spice, herbal notes and toasty oak. Well framed and balanced, the wine is toasty and dry on the finish. Enjoy with robust meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Jim Barry ‘The Cover Drive’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Coonawarra $26.95 (677476) 14.5% alcohol
Opaque and dense, this fine Cabernet showcases menthol and ripe black fruit complemented by notions of sweet spice and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, the herbal notes replay and mingle with cassis and berry fruit, warm pudding spice and attractive toasty notes. Well underpinned and finely balanced, the wine offers a long, warm, toasty finish that will bring you back for sip after sip. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2012 

Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (009167) 13.5% alcohol 

This opens with a sharp nose of piquant spice and racy lemon-lime aromas. There’s lively nerve and verve throughout with good tension from flavours of Key lime pie, lemon drop and sweeter, mellow, grilled pineapple. Crisp, fresh and mouth-watering on the aftertaste, it pours well with spicy Asian cuisine or Cape Malay bobotie. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2013
WO Western Cape $13.95 (126797) 12.0% alcohol
Straw hued, this Sauvignon Blanc combines lovely herbaceous notes (you can almost smell the sage-like scent of the South African fynbos) with citrus and crisp green apple. Dry, medium bodied, it’s round yet crisp, pithy citrus mingling with accents of steamed asparagus and grilled sage. With its clean, lively structure and fresh, tangy finish, it’s good value and a match for seafood, trout or a goat cheese and arugula salad. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

Newton Johnson Pinot Noir 2012
WO Upper Hemel en Aarde Valley $26.95 (660878) 13.5% alcohol
Transparent ruby-garnet, the aromas in this wine are red berry, black currant, earth and herbs. Dry, light-mid weight, it showcases a silky texture, restrained tannins, a fine backbone of fresh acidity and lovely red fruit flavours—cherry, strawberry and red currant. Flavourful and finely balanced, it’s pleasantly fruity yet fresh on the finish. Enjoy with grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Perrin & Fils ‘Réserve’ Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2012 

AOC Côtes du Rhône $14.95 (499509) 13.0% alcohol 

Bold, aromatic and alluring on the nose, it dishes up floral notes, sweet vanilla and exotic spice aromas. Persistent waves of lemon zest and blood orange interwoven with tropical fruit bathe the palate, infusing the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Medium bodied with good texture, the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Caparzo Rosso di Montalcino 2011
DOC Montalcino $19.95 (333575) 13.5% alcohol
Transparent ruby, this wine offers appealing aromas of fresh red fruits accented by spice and dried herbs. Dry, medium bodied, the lively texture and perceptible tannins are complemented with vibrant red fruit—cherry and currant to the fore. Spicy, savoury notes evolve on the palate and persist on the extended, dry finish. A great food wine, especially with meat-based pasta dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Club Lealtanza Reserva 2005
DOCa Rioja $29.95 (293852) 13.5% alcohol
Produced from the fruit of old vines then aged 18 months in French oak, this lovely wine offers subtle floral aromas, berry, black cherry and spice. Dry, yet round in texture, it’s medium-full bodied and finely balanced. There’s great complexity on the palate, notes of vanilla, sweet spice and earth mingling with black berry and hints of dried fruits. Beautifully evolved and elegant, it finishes smooth and lengthy. (Susan Desjardins)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: June, 2014 

Delheim Pinotage Rosé 2013
Coastal Region $15.95 (721670) 12.5% alcohol

Pinotage with a touch of Muscat Ottonel, this rosé's pale-salmon hue reflects minimum skin contact. It offers aromas and flavours of ripe red fruits and hints of spice. There's a bit of spritz on the palate and the touch of residual sugar delivers a lasting fruity finish.  A crowd-pleaser to be enjoyed well chilled. (Susan Desjardins)



Delheim 'Simonsberg' Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

WO Simonsberg $18.95 (981357) 14.5% alcohol 

This was produced from declassified fruit that would normally go into their Grand Reserve. Aged in French oak for 17 months, this is a beautifully crafted, well integrated, substantial wine. Inky purple, the complexity starts on the nose—aromas of cassis and plum emerge and mingle with mint, dried herbs, cedar, smoke and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, the firm frame of tannins and fine acidity accent the ripe flavours of black currant, berry and plum. Notions of exotic spice and dark chocolate tantalize with subtle notes of toast manifesting on the extended finish. A restrained, elegant yet powerful wine that's an outstanding value. Pick up a few bottles to enjoy now with grilled meats and over the next few years. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: July, 2014

Cathedral Cellars Merlot 2011 

WO Western Cape $15.95 (522219) 14.3%
 alcohol
The fruit for this ruby-hued wine came mostly from the warm vineyards of Swartland, it was fermented at a low temperature to capture that ripe fruit then aged 16 months in a combination of new and seasoned oak. It offers complex aromas and flavours of black cherry, plum, roasted red pepper, spice and a touch of cedar. Dry, medium bodied, the ripe spicy fruit explodes on the palate framed by subtle tannins and well-integrated oak. Fine toasty notes carry through the remarkably fresh, fruity finish. A well-crafted, savoury wine. (Susan Desjardins)


Vintages Release: TBD

Bellingham Bernard Series 'Old Vines' Chenin Blanc 2013
Western Cape $22.95 (12724) 14.0% alcohol
Produced from the fruit of 95-year-old vines and aged 8-12 months in French oak, this golden gem offers beguiling aromas of butter cream, vanilla, orchard fruit and toasted nut. Dry, medium-full bodied, it's creamy and fruity, the oak well integrated, notions of citrus, apricot, pear and nut mingling on the palate. There's good balance on the long full-flavoured finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Boschendal '1685' Shiraz 2012
Groot Drakenstein $19.95 (96511) 14.0% alcohol

This semi-opaque Shiraz spent 14 months in  new and seasoned French oak, notes of vanilla and sweet spice accenting the intense aromas of red and black berry and ripe plum. Dry, medium bodied, it's appealingly smooth and round with a rousing dose of pepper that unfurls on the palate, accenting the rich flavours of black berry and cherry. Harmonious, well structured with refined acidity and tannins and finishing clean, fruity and fresh, this wine is an ideal partner for grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)


Cathedral Cellars Shiraz
WO Western Cape $15.95 (561142) 14.0% alcohol

This opaque, purple Shiraz was aged 16 months in oak, principally French. The aromas rush from the glass—intense ripe black fruit, sweet spice, red rose, vanilla and a hint of licorice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it balances lots of black plum and berry flavours with the tang of currants and red berries. There's a firm structure, good acidity and freshness to the texture along with tasty notes of spice, white pepper and cinnamon toast on the lasting finish. Great balance and mouth feel! Pair with steak or ribs. (Susan Desjardins)


Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2013 

WO Stellenbosch $12.95 (981167 ) 13.5% alcohol

Golden-hued and richly fruity, the lifted aromas include floral notes, stone and tropical fruit with a whiff of spice. Dry, yet fruit forward, it has a fine creamy texture, partly as a result of time on the lees, and sufficient acidity to balance the fruit basket on the palate—peach, pear, pineapple, kiwi. On the finish, the fruit is emphasized by a touch of residual sugar. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages – a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores

Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2013
WO Swartland $14.95 (595280) 14.0% alcohol

Only a portion of this deep-purple Syrah was aged in oak, ensuring the sweet ripe fruit aromas and flavours shine. Red and black fruit aromas abound; there's a notion of candied fruit along with spice and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine is quite round and plush, deliciously fruity and peppery. Delivering a long warm finish, this wine shows great integration, balance and finesse. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Boschendal ‘The Pavillion’ Chenin Blanc Viognier 2013

South Africa  $10.95 (281311) 13.5% alcohol

Unoaked, offering lifted aromas of ripe fruit—kiwi, melon, peach—and a whiff of spice, this is a dry, medium-bodied wine with an almost spritzy texture. The richness of ripe stone fruit shines on the palate, mingling with exotic spice and a touch of citrus pith. Clean and tangy on the finish, it's a match for grilled chicken or fish. (Susan Desjardins)



Boschendal ‘The Pavillion’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

South Africa $12.00 (222299) 14.0% alcohol

Intense purple, the limited oak aging of this wine creates a subtle frame for waves of ripe fruit and spice. Black fruits, cassis, peppery notes and a whiff of vanilla create a lovely bouquet. The ripe black fruit is lifted by a rush of spice and pepper framed by subtle tannins and fine acidity. Fruity, but dry, there's a tang of red raspberry and lingering peppery notes on the finish. This is an approachable, well-made medium-bodied wine that's a match for veggie or lamb burgers. (Susan Desjardins)


Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (370320) 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, the fruit for this inaugural vintage was hand-sorted on the estate, aged 10 months in French oak. It showcases an alluring nose of bright red berries and ripe black cherry, cedar, mineral, dried herbs and spice. Dry, tangy and spicy, it’s medium-full bodied, blending a lively texture with ripe tannin, chocolate-coated coffee bean and a touch of vanilla mingling with cassis, black cherry and raspberry. Well structured, offering good complexity and balance, this wine finishes dry and long. It pairs well with roast beef and Yorkshire pudding. (Susan Desjardins)


Wolftrap Viognier Chenin Blanc Grenache Blanc 2013

WO Western Cape $13.95 (292532) 13.5% alcohol

Lifted floral, tropical and stone fruit aromas mingle with sweet spice. Dry, medium bodied, the wine is round yet crisp, displaying a fine seam of acidity and a touch of tannins to complement delicious flavours of stone fruit, pineapple, tangerine, spice and white pepper. There's great balance to this wine, and a nice tangy finish. (Susan Desjardins)



Wolftrap Syrah Mourvèdre Viognier 2013

Western Cape $13.95 (292557) 14.0% alcohol

Deep-purple hued, this blend offers complex aromas of herbs, smoke, red rose, black fruits and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it has good structure of ripe tannins and fresh acidity, the texture round yet fresh. Loads of black fruit wash across the palate garnished with notes of spice, dried herbs and pepper. Well balanced and flavourful, it finishes with a touch of spicy warmth. This red twin of Wolftrap white blend is a party pleaser! (Susan Desjardins)


New in Ontario Wineries

Château des Charmes ‘Cuvée d’Andrée’ Rosé 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (333260) 13.0% alcohol
A vibrant tawny rose, this Pinot Noir Rosé proffers a lovely nose of red fruit, a touch of mineral and a hint of sweet citrus. Dry and medium bodied, it’s juicy and refreshing. Red cherries, berries and tangy cranberries play through eventually garnished by a lively touch of pepper on the tasty, fruit-filled finish. A great sipper or match for salmon with strawberry spinach salad—good value. This also available in CdC Boutique stores in Toronto and Hamilton as well as for daily home or office delivery from Château des Charmes. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan