Tudernum Sagrantino di Montefalco 2003
DOCG Sagrantino di Montefalco $39.95 (52340)
This is an "In-Store Discovery," released on December 8, and available in small volumes in larger Vintages stores. But it's well worth looking for. The Sagrantino variety makes rich, robust, complex and well-structured reds that are often much sought-after. This is one (the hit of a tasting of a number of impressive reds), and it's that much bolder for being a product of the hot 2003 vintage. Look for a plush texture and flavours of black fruit and berries, with accents of coffee, mocha, spice and black pepper. Right now the fruit is in the grip of the tannins, and I recommend putting this away for another three years to get the best of the flavours. If you can't wait, drink it with red meat cooked medium-rare at most. (RP)