d'Arenberg "The Footbolt" Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale, Australia $20.95 (984021)
The first wine in the world (1980's) to be labelled "Old Vine", the name was changed to Footbolt in 1996. Full-bodied and powerful flavours of spiced plum, gamey notes and mocha are underpinned by lashings of oak and moderate acidity. This has considerable oomph from a grainy tannic structure. Confirm the vintage as stores may have both the 03 and 04 on shelves. Drink 2008 to 2014 with rack of lamb. (VH)