Inniskillin Braeburn Vineyard Shiraz 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95

You'll find a warm debate about Niagara Shiraz. There are the nay-sayers, who insist that it's an impossible grape for the region, and the supporters who are putting their faith in it. Inniskillin is increasing plantings of the variety. The best way to find your position is to try a few, and this is a good one to start with. It's quite big and fruity-not in an Australian style, of course, but in a cool-climate way. Look for dark fruit (cherry, plum) with hints of vanilla, spice and chocolate. The tannins are firm. Test-drive this with well-seasoned grilled lamb. You can order this directly from the winery, and there's a handy link on winecurrent.com. (RP)


Inniskillin Founders' Reserve Meritage 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95

This blend includes a whopping 28% Petit Verdot. No, not 2.8%, 28%. As a lover of Petit Verdot, I really like its contribution to this big blend, with a core of ripe, sweet fruit. The texture is remarkably smooth, given the wine's age, but the tannins need time to soften. Put this away for at least three years, then drink it over the next five to seven. Order from the winery via the link on winecurrent.com, (RP)


Inniskillin Dornfelder Icewine 1999
VQA Niagara Peninsula $200

The retail store at the winery has fewer than a hundred bottles of this, and even with this price tag, they're likely to disappear fairly quickly. This was one of the experiments tried in the late 90s by Inniskillin's icewine winemaker, Karl Kaiser. It has rich, black fruit and berry flavours. Kaiser suggests "it's like a Port, but without the alcohol." (The alcohol is 10%.) Just delicious and a real treat. Order direct from Inniskillin via the link at winecurrent.com.(RP)


Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95

One of Ontario's cult wines. It sells out quickly, so hurry if you want to get your bottles for delicious summer drinking. It's Sauvignon Blanc in a tight, lean style, with brisk, deep acidity, and lovely flavours of green apple and citrus fruit, with mineral notes. A great partner for briny oysters on the shell. Order from the winery using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)