Brumont Gros Manseng-Sauvignon 2011
IGP Côtes de Gascogne $12.95 (297734) 12.5% alcohol
Coming to the LCBO, possibly December—the best-selling French white wine in the SAQ. Gros Manseng, a little-known grape, is grown principally in SW France. Vic and I loved it; enjoy fairly intense floral aromas and scents of stone fruit and lemon-lime. Dry and light-mid weight, it’s round, smooth and lively with notes of citrus, ripe apple and a clean, crisp, lemon pith finish. Try it with your favourite seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

Château des Charmes – The adventure for the visitor begins in Niagara-on-the-Lake, driving down York Road with a stunning, Loire Valley-like Château looming ever larger, ever more grand. The adventure for the owners, the Bosc family, began in Algeria, eventually making their way to Canada and Niagara, purchasing land and planting vines in the 70’s at a vineyard which was to become the largest planting of vitis vinifera vines in Canada at the time. Going from strength to strength, they’re hardly a best-kept secret, their wines are acclaimed locally, nationally and internationally and Paul Bosc Sr. is a recipient of many honors and awards for his contributions to the wine industry including the Order of Ontario and the Order of Canada.

Family owned and operated, Madame Andrée Bosc, the congenial family matriarch, is involved with the executive decisions of the business and a true partner to Paul Bosc Sr. Their son, Paul-André is involved in the running of the winery and acts as Chair of the Canadian Vintners Association. His wife, Michèle, is their tireless Director of Marketing with myriad responsibilities from advertising and trade relations to handling their hospitality functions and guest experiences at the Château. The entire family lives their motto, ‘Making wine is not what we do, it’s who we are.’ And, the next generation has arrived. Michèle and Paul-André’s young son, Alex, can’t be too far away from making his mark on this thriving winery. The four wines reviewed below attest to why they thrive.


Château des Charmes Sparkling Brut Non-vintage
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $22.95 (224766) 13.0% alcohol
Trivial differences between this and Champagne other than one—this is one-third the price. It’s made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the traditional method and spent over 24 months in bottle on its lees. The fine-bead bubbles are persistent with the mouth-watering aftertaste flavour-laden, crisp and refreshing. The nose and palate are treated to a gorgeous attack of lemon-grapefruit citrus, baking brioche and succulent white peach. (Vic Harradine)


Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled – Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (81653) 13.0% alcohol
Seeing Château des Charmes on the label, allows you to choose the wine with great confidence. A salad bowl of tropical fruit and floral notes on the nose herald nicely balanced, palate-bathing flavours of succulent white peach, green apple and lemon chiffon pie. It’s mid weight with good texture and a lengthy, lip-smacking, delicious finish. (Vic Harradine)


Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (195511) 13.0% alcohol
Well priced; from one of Niagara’s elite producers. Aromas of exotic spice and herbs, cedar and spiced black plum presage a medium-bodied, creamy-textured river of Bing cherry, ripe black berry and racy cranberry to the fore. It showcases a balanced aftertaste that’s brimming with spiced, dark berry fruit, plummy notes and plenty of charm. This pours well alongside white pizza, roast chicken or smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)


Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (061499) 12.5% alcohol
This has incredible purity of fruit and over-delivers an all counts—mineral/slate, lemon-lime and whiffs of petrol introduce this gem. It’s tingling with acidity, dishing up a mouthful of crisp, white grapefruit and Granny Smith apple mingling with hints of white peach and nectarine. It’s deep-yellow hued, mid weight and surprisingly well textured, sporting a crisp, refreshing finish of lemon-lime tang and zest—it’s what dry Riesling aspires to be. (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Cabernet-Merlot 2010
VQA Short Hills Bench $14.95 (504241) 13.5% alcohol
Charred toast and savory herb aromas mingle with briary berry on the nose. Rich, luscious mulberry and black pepper mingle with spice and dark plum on the palate. This is medium weight, nicely textured with a blaze of balanced ripe cherry/berry and mixed spice on the mouth-watering delicious aftertaste. There’s a lot going on, pick up a bottle; enjoy the show. Grilled rib eye and giant Portobellos match well. (Vic Harradine)

Konzelmann Estate Winery – Herbert Konzelmann celebrates his 54th this year, his 54th year in the wine business. Prescient and an early adopter of the Niagara wine region and vitis vinifera vines, he formed his winery in the mid-eighties alongside others who also forged success in becoming the leaders and shakers in Niagara—Len Pennachetti of Cave Spring Cellars (1986) and Jim Warren of Stoney Ridge Cellars (1985).

Herbert is still going strong; winecurrent visited recently to find him handling a tractor amongst the vines. He’s been named winemaker of the year and has fashioned myriad wines garnering local, national and international awards, medals and acclaim. The public portion of the winery has undergone a dazzling remodeling making it a must-visit spot when in Niagara-on-the Lake. Not surprisingly, given his German roots, he excels with white varieties and Pinot Noir. Their mantra is ‘low-yield, high-quality premium wines’. A number are reviewed below with more than their fair share singled out as providing exceptional value.


Konzelmann Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (112946) 12.5% alcohol
Dill weed, roasted herbs and red berry fruit aromas waft from this mid-weight, mid-textured red. Tangy, crisp and lively, it showers the palate with sprigs of savory herbs interlaced with sour cherry and red plum. The aftertaste is dry and tangy with wisps of tannin and tobacco. Good to go now with spaghetti Bolognese decked with spicy Italian sausage. (Vic Harradine)


Konzelmann Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (439281) 12.5% alcohol
Light-ruby hued, aromas of spiced berry fruit and black plum intro a light-on-its-feet wash of charred wood smoke interwoven with Montmorency cherry and red currant. It’s lightly textured with good balance and tangy moderating acidity and racy red fruit—cranberry and pomegranate—on the dry, crisp finish. Good to go now with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-layered pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Konzelmann Pinot Blanc 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.15 (219279) 12.5% alcohol
Floral, citrus and honeyed pit fruit aromas on the nose, this gorgeously textured gem is off-dry and beautifully balanced throughout. Succulent white peach, crisp Granny Smith apple and ripe pineapple interlace with tangy lemon on the palate and the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. The perfect aperitif or welcoming wine, it pours well with chicken or veal in Madeira sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Konzelmann Pinot Noir ‘Spaetburgunder’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (200584) 12.5% alcohol
Hard to believe there’s this much flavour, balance, and pure imbibing pleasure for this mere pittance. Usually spelled, Spätburgunder, it’s German for Pinot Noir. Woodsy notes, ripe, red cherry and nuances of kirsch liqueur aromas herald a lovely mouthful of tangy black currant, sweet, ripe mulberry and spice-laden black plum. Its mid weight, nicely textured with a delectable aftertaste of red cherry and mulberry. (Vic Harradine)


Konzelmann Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (200501) 11.5% alcohol
Ripe tropical fruit, lemongrass and zesty pineapple aromas precede a racy river of lemon-lime, white grapefruit and oodles of crisp Granny Smith apple bathing the palate infusing the refreshing, lengthy aftertaste. This is mid weight with good mouth feel brimming with excellent acidity and a boatload of charm. Balanced and beautiful, sip on its own or pour with pan-fried seafood or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)


Konzelmann ‘fresco secco’ ‘Frizzante’ Riesling 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (193565) 12.0% alcohol
The term ‘frizzante’ refers to sparkling wine with less than half the atmospheres of pressure compared to Champagne or wines made méthode traditionelle. Honeysuckle and tropical fruit aromas intro off-dry fizz and flavours—ripe pit fruit and melon mingling with tangy lemony notes and green apple. This is nicely balanced with good acidity and just the right amount of ripe fruit. It’s a bright and lively party starter made for fun and easy times. (Vic Harradine)


Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery ‘Lady in Red’ 2010
VQA Ontario $14.95 (266486) 12.5% alcohol
This multi-blend red is primarily the two Cabernets with a splash of Pinot Noir and Merlot. Involved aromas of red cherry/berry, dark toast and mixed spice herald a light-medium-bodied, sweet, ripe wash of kirsch liqueur, briary berry and piquant spice. It dishes up a persistent and balanced finish that’s fruit-laden and garnished with a tangy bite on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)