| February 5, 2005 Vintages Release | | Print | |
 Vic Harradine will be visiting wineries in Australia and New Zealand for the next few weeks and, while he is away, Rod Phillips will write all the Vintages release reviews. Vic will file reviews in the other categories in the next newsletter. All the wines in this release are from France. Consult our rating system for a description of the symbols we use when rating a wine. White
Wines   Henry de Fontenay Vouvray 2003 AOC Vouvray, Loire $13.95 (653576) Made from Chenin Blanc, Vouvray comes in a range of styles. This one offers plush ripe fruit (stewed pears, ripe red apple) flavours with good acidity. Its off-dry in texture and makes a good partner for spicy chicken dishes. (RP) Fournier Père et Fils Les Maulins Bâles Sancerre 2002 AOC Sancerre, Loire $24.95 (651091) The Vintages catalog reminds us that Sancerre inspired New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and adds, Kiwi wine lovers take note. But this and good New Zealand SB are as far apart stylistically as, well, Sancerre and Marlborough. This is much more restrained in fruit and acidity, more understated, and delicious in its own style. Serve it with briny seafood. (RP)   Verget St-Romain 2002 AOC St Romain, Burgundy $29.95 (652040) St-Romain is off the beaten track in Burgundy, not along the famous Côte dOr, and as is so often true, you get the best value from lesser-known appellations. This is a stunning Chardonnay, with finely-honed fruit, poised acidity, and gorgeous texture. Do I like it? Pair it with something elegant or something simple, like herbed sea bass or grilled chicken in a white wine sauce. (RP)  Bouchard Père et Fils Montagny 1er Cru 2003 AOC Montagny 1er Cru, Burgundy $24.95 (653683) A superbly-made wine that shows elegance and style. The fruit is focused and pure, the acidity is balanced, and the oak is so deftly handled that you feel it in the texture but it doesnt interfere with the fruit. This is one for delicately-flavoured food, like poached salmon with a light lemon sauce. (RP) Mas de Daumas Gassac Réserve de Gassac Blanc 2003 Vin de Pays de lHérault, Languedoc $18.95 (608778) From the icon winery of Languedoc, a delicate but full-fruit white with attractive floral, apple and pear aromas and flavours, all set off with good citrus acidity. Its medium bodied and just well made, an ideal and versatile food wine. Think of it for grilled snapper. (RP) Martin Schaetzel Riesling 2003 AOC Alsace $17.95 (641647) A mouth-filling, dry Riesling with all the acidity you expect of the variety, along with full-flavoured fruit (apple and pear to the fore). Despite its dryness, it has a richness that will carry it through to a pairing with seared foie gras without any problem. (RP) Red
wines  Guy Saget Domaine dArtois Rouge 2002 AOC Touraine-Mesland, Loire $11.95 (694018) A very well-priced red from a region associated with white wine. This is predominantly Cabernet Franc, and it has flavours of spicy, bright red fruit with a hint of candied fruit. Very lightly tannic, dry textured, and light to medium bodied, its easy-drinking and versatile for dishes from pasta to pizza. (RP) Château de Brézé Saumur Rouge 2002 AOC Saumur, Loire $14.95 (590554) A light- to medium-bodied Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon blend that has bright red cherry and berry with some spice and earthy notes. It has quite a good tannic grip, a bit of depth on the palate, and comes through thoroughly dry. Versatile with food, it can be paired well with tomato and mushroom-based vegetarian dishes. (RP) Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves 2002 AOC Beaune 1er Cru, Burgundy $52.95 (680413) A beautifully-made Pinot Noir that takes advantage of the quality of the years fruit. Theres a seam of fruit purity here, with stunning flavours of ripe red cherry and sweet berry. Throw in some peppery spice, fine tannins and loooooong length, and you have it. Pair this up with duck and a cherry coulis. (RP) Joseph Drouhin Ladoix 2002 AOC Ladoix, Burgundy $26.95 (966200) This is stylish and flavoursome, with lovely cherry and red berry fruit, the merest hint of earthiness and a scattering of spice, and brisk acidity. It verges on being elegant, but its a now wine, not one to put aside. So enjoy it anytime in the next year or two with grilled lamb and root vegetables. (RP)  Château Clos Dubreuil 2001 AOC St-Emilion, Bordeaux $74.95 (603993) An amazing wine thats worth putting away for five to ten years. Its inky appearance prepares you for the dense, concentrated aromas and flavours. Look for complex dark fruit flavours and notes like tar, coffee and leather, but right now the tannins, while integrating, are too firm and drying. Hold off buying the steak for another five to ten years, too. (RP) Château du Glana 2000 AOC St-Julien, Bordeaux $44.95 (592881) Dense and intense. No, its not a politician, but a Bordeaux from the much-vaunted 2000 vintage. This has well-focused dark fruit (cherry, plum, black currant) with herbal and spice notes, food-friendly acidity, and good length. The tannins are firm but approachable, so you can drink it now and over the next eight years. Pair it with rare roast lamb. (RP) Château Coucheroy 2000 AOC Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux $17.95 (944983) Apparently Coucheroy means the king (roi) slept (coucha) there. The king in question, Henri IV, was one of Frances most popular, and he took refuge at the château in a storm. Fortunately, no storms spoiled the great 2000 vintage, and here you have plush cherry and plum backed by good acidity, and approachable tannins. Its well made and very good value for the appellation. Pair it with grilled game or red meat. (RP) Château Moulin de Curat 2001 AOC Puisseguin St-Emilion, Bordeaux $18.95 (653162) A well-priced Bordeaux that you can drink now or cellar another six years. Predominantly Merlot, this has good fruit intensity, long and firm tannins, and a very good finish. Just well made and affordable, and a great match for lamb stew. (RP) Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2001 AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône $41.95 (728014) How great is this? A superb, full-flavoured, well-structured, complex words escaped me as I tasted this. Just gorgeous fruit, up-front tannins, and an elongated finish. This is one for cellaring, at least for another three years, but it will drink for a decade after that. Hitch it up to a grilled rack of well-seasoned (lots of garlic) lamb. (RP) Michel Gassier Les Piliers Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Vin de Pays du Gard $17.95 (653725) Michel Gassier is an iconoclastic winemaker who turns out great wines at affordable prices. This is a real bargainunder-priced, but only because its a vin de pays. Its totally delicious, with terrific fruit concentration, perfect balance, firm, sweet tannins . And its wine of the month, so it wont be around long, and youd better get in quickly. Pair it with rich red meat dishes. (RP) Domaine de la Croze 2003 AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $14.95 (736371) The Côtes-du-Rhône appellation is one of those big hit-and-miss regions. You can get terrific wine and really mediocre stuff. This is one of the former (we dont bother with the other kind here). It has very complex fruit (raspberry, plum, cherry) with a host of secondaries, firm tannic structure, and good length. How can you let it go by at this price? Its a natural for a grilled veal chop. (RP) Mas des Bressades 2002 Vin de Pays du Gard $18.95 (712174) A Cabernet-Syrah blend thats always popular, so dont wait too long if you want some of this. It has everything in excellent balance: plush fruit, firm drink-me-now-or-later tannins, and food-friendly acid balance. Pair it with sweet red meat dishes, like lamb with parsnips and carrots. (RP) Mas de Daumas Gassac Réserve de Gassac Rouge 2003 Vin de Pays de lHérault, Languedoc $18.95 (608760) A blend of too many varieties to list, this is a sort of second label of the winerys Rouge, which has been called Languedocs First Growth wine. The fruit is complex and generous, beautifully balanced, and its a marvelous partner to lamb stew flavoured with dried lavender. (RP) Château de Haute-Serre 2001 AOC Cahors $20.95 (693952) Malbec makes wines with amazing intensity, structure and flavour, and Cahors is a benchmark region for them. This one is packed with rich, dark fruit, still in the shadow of firm, drying tannins that will need at least five years to soften. Its great value as a cellaring wine. (RP) Château Bouissel 2001 AOC Côtes du Frontonnais $12.95 (693986) Made predominantly from Négrette, a grape variety indigenous to south western France and the variety that distinguishes this little-known appellation. Here it makes a rich, fleshy wine with some beet and game flavours and good acidity. Its great value. Try it with a hamburger that includes slices of freshly-boiled beets. (RP) Château de Sérame 2002 AOC Minervois $18.95 (651125) A juicy, ripe fruit-forward Syrah-Grenache blend with lots of complexity and character. Look for notes of mint, pepper and spice, soft tannins, and excellent acid balance. Well made and well priced, its a good partner for roast or grilled duck. (RP) Vintages Release
February 19, 2005 White wines Inniskillin Dark Horse Estate Vineyard Chardonnay 2002 VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $17.95 (590372) A rich, creamy-textured Chardonnay with up-front fruit (peach, pear, tropical) and well-balanced acidity. Its quite stylish and shows the excellence that comes from the West. Pair this with grilled chicken with a tropical fruit salsa. (RP) Barossa Valley Estates Ebenezer Chardonnay 2001 Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (976324) Wine-lovers may be more familiar with the Ebenezer reds from Barossa Estates, a company owned by the grape-growers who provide the fruit. This white reaches the same quality, with elegant and complex floral and peach aromas, excellent balance, and good structure. Try it with grilled swordfish. (RP) Esk Valley Estate Black Label Chardonnay 2003 Hawkes Bay, New Zealand $19.95 (595538) Lovely fruit complexity here, with the balance more toward peach and pear than toward the tropical spectrum. Theres a pleasant warm toastiness to the aromas, too, but the oak is well-enough handled that it doesnt cloud the purity of the fruit. Good balance, smooth in the mouth, this pairs well with grilled white fish. (RP) Sacred Hill Whitecliff Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Hawkes Bay, New Zealand $14.95 (651802) This is very well priced and shows that Marlborough doesnt have a stranglehold on Sauvignon Blanc. The aromas and flavours are all passion fruit. (If you dont know passion fruit, Loblaws has them from time to time: make sure you buy one that has wrinkled skin.) The fruit is as pungent and the acidity as zesty as you expect from a NZ Sauvignon Blanc. Screwcap-sealed for freshness. Great with oysters, of course. (RP) Fairview Viognier 2003 WO Paarl, South Africa $19.95 (906487) Just a very fine Viognier from one of South Africas best wineries. It has focused ripe fruit, elegant structure, clean acidity and a hint of warmth from the 14.5% alcohol. Vintages suggests spiced shrimp, and I second that. (RP) St Donatus Muscat Ottonel 2003 Balaton, Transdanubia, Hungary $10.95 (608497) Lovely flora and Muscat aromas with hints of peach and apricot. The texture is smooth, and this is made in an off-dry style that works very well with spicy seafood dishes. (RP) Red Wine Thomas & Vaughan Marechal Foch 2002 VQA Ontario $14.95 (585968) Funny how hybrids like Marechal Foch were reviled not so long ago as varieties that Canadian wineries should say good riddance to. But in the hands of a good winemaker, they make very good wine like this one. It has rich meaty, beet flavours that shade into sweet berry and plum. The texture is fleshy and its well balanced. Try it with spicy beef dishes. (RP) Quails Gate Estate Family Reserve Gamay Noir 2002 VQA Okanagan Valley, B.C. $29.95 (590679) If you think all Gamay tastes like the fresh, fruity, lighter styles of Beaujolais, try this full-fruit wonder from one of Okanagans best wineries. Lovely intense dark fruit here, with good acidity, fine balance, and good weight. The alcohol is 15%, but you wouldnt know it. Pair this with a veal chop in a rich, spicy tomato sauce. (RP) Gray Monk Pinot Noir 2002 VQA Okanagan Valley $15.95 (251835) The hospitable folk at Gray Monk have produced a very stylish and well-priced Pinot here. Look for aromas and flavours of sweet and tart cherries, with soft tannins and good length. Overall, very successful and ideal for lighter dishes like grilled salmon. (RP) Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Paso Robles, California $19.95 (680835) A California Cab, but not from the Napa. Paso Robles is attracting a lot of attention these days, and with wine like this, no wonder. It shows concentrated, complex dark fruit with firm but approachable tannins and good acidity. Its beautifully made and will pair well now with rare steak or lamb. (RP) Estancia Estates Meritage 2000 Alexander Valley, California $35.95 (975920) The soft texture is one of the attractive features of this wine. The others include the rich, complex flavours (plum, cherry, cassis) and the perfect balance of fruit and acidity. It makes for a marvelous package, and this will enhance all manner of red meat dishes. (RP) Francis Coppola Blue Label Merlot 2002 California $27.95 (595686) Heres a wine that shouts New World in the best sense. The fruit is luscious and forward, the acidity is balanced, and the tannins are bulky and prominent. Somehow it manages to achieve equilibrium between in-your-face and under-stated/brooding. Pair it with nothing less than a hunk of rare-grilled red meat. (RP) Firestone Estate Merlot 2001 Santa Ynez Valley, California $22.95 (982744) This contains 14 per cent Cabernet Franc, which adds a little structure and complexity to the Merlot. The flavours (cherry, berry, plum) are concentrated and plush, and the tannins are firm but drinking now. Pair it with roast game. (RP) Amity Pinot Noir 2000 Willamette Valley, Oregon $22.95 (965756] Myron Redford is one of the characters of the Oregon wine scene, and makes wine in an idiosyncratic winery on top of a hill. Whatever he does, it works. Here he gives us a good-value Pinot Noir (a Willamette Valley specialty) with a seam of pure, sweet fruit running right through its core. The tannins are grippy, the finish is long, and the whole thing is well made. Try this with a rack of lamb. Medium rare. (RP) Ravenswood Old Vines Zinfandel 2001 Amador County, Sierra Foothills, California $23.95 (7325030) This stands out above most of the Zins available. Its a big, hearty, in-your-face sort of Zin, with hefty dark fruit, firm sweet tannins, and good acid balance. In-your-face but not in your way if you want to dine while drinking it. It goes well with spicy beef dishes, like well-seasoned beef stew. (RP) Goundrey Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Mt Barker, Western Australia $21.95 (922195) Goundrey (owned by Canadas Vincor) makes excellent wines and heres another. The dark fruit is pure, concentrated and saturated, with complexity a-plenty. The tannins are firm but manageable now if you just cant wait to taste it, and the length is very good. Its stylish and very well priced. Pair it with grilled/roast game. (RP) Tyrrells Lost Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Victorian Alps, Australia $17.5 (595678) Excellent value. For under $18 you get a bottle of well-structured Cab, with intense, complex dark fruit flavours, great balance, and good length. The tannins are sweet and softening, but you can still hold this for a few years if you want to buy a few bottles. Its screwcap-sealed to keep the fruit fresh. Drink it with rich red meat dishes. (RP) DArenberg The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 McLaren Vale, South Australia $48.95 (943399) Step away from the corkscrew! Dont even think about opening this until the end of the decade at the earliest. Its a huge, tannic, high alcohol (14.5%) fruit-bomb, black and inky, that needs time to integrate and develop a little refinement. Once it does that, itll be a beautiful wine. You could put this down for a child born in 2001. (RP) Wolf Blass Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc 2001 Adelaide Hills, South Australia $29.95 (590265) The Gold Label is notable (a) because nearly all the wines are under screwcap and (b) the wines are consistently successful. This Cabernet blend shows a really elegant texture and deft handling of oak. The purity of the fruit has been maintained, and the tannins are fine and supple. Drink it now and to the end of the decade. With red meat. (RP) Rosemount Estate Traditional Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot 2001 McLaren Vale, South Australia $35.95 (484097) Its not often we get to taste a winner of the Jimmy Watson Trophy, Australias most prestigious wine award. And to taste at this price is even better. You get a simply gorgeous blend with full-on fruit, smooth texture, elegant structure, and firm tannins. Drink t now and for the next en years, perhaps with richly-seasoned lamb. (RP) Angoves Red Belly Black Shiraz 2002 South Australia $16.95 (640557) This is the first vintage of Red Belly Black, named after an unpleasant-looking, two-toned, venomous snake, which is found in various parts of Australiaincluding Sydney, where Vic Harradine is spending February. Ill stick to the vinous, rather than venomous, variety. This is great value, with intense black (of course!) fruit aromas and flavours and good, food-friendly acidity. Great with rare steak. (RP) Chateau Reynella Basket Pressed Shiraz 2001 McLaren Vale, South Australia $29.95 (510628) Beautiful toasty black fruit on the nose, with the oak retreating to a more subtle note on the palate and giving way to vanilla and spice nuances. Just lovely flavours and a silky texture make this a winner in every way. Pair it up with well garlicked medium-rare grilled lamb. (RP) Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Shiraz 2001 Barossa Valley, South Australia $38.95 (971705) Many people wait for this every year, so dont wait too long if you want some. This has elegant dark fruit with eucalyptus and pepper notes, full, smooth texture, and firm tannins. Drink it now with rare red meat or stash it away for up to ten years. (RP) Yalumba The Signature Cabernet/Shiraz 1999 Barossa Valley, South Australia $44.95 (528356) Best to hide this one quickly, because it would be a total pity to open it this side of 2010. This has what youd call brooding depth. Its all dark fruit, tightly wound and astringently tannic. Given it peace and quiet for five years, and it will relax, round out, soften, and reward your patience a hundred-fold. (RP) Vidal Estate Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2002 Hawkes Bay, New Zealand $19.95 (700617) Another screwcap-sealed wine from Kiwi-land, where the corkscrews are rusting through lack of use. Sweet dark fruit are to the fore here, with good structure, firm tannins and good acidity. Lamb is the natural food suggestion. (RP) Fairview Goats do Roam in Villages Red 2003 WO Paarl, South Africa $14.95 (566851) The Vintages catalogue (page 60) has an amusing account of Fairviews struggle with the wine associations in Frances Rhône region over their use of the Goats do Roam brand. All theyre doing is providing him with publicity for the very good wines, like this well-made, very well-priced blend. Its got good fruit, good structure, good everything, and it gets a very good rating for its price. (RP) Tittarelli Finca El Retiro Syrah 2001 Mendoza, Argentina $11.95 (928283) Wines from Argentina offer exceptional value, but this one just about beats them all. Its a fruit-bomb with saturated black fruit, good structure, nice tannins, very good balance all for under $12. The only excuse not to buy lots of this is that its sold out. Drink it with anything from hamburgers to steak to beef stew to hearty vegetarian dishes. (RP) Concha y Toro Trio Merlot 2003 Rapel Valley, Chile $13.95 (433920) Its called Trio because there are three varieties here: Merlot (65%), Carmenère (20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). How can they call it Merlot if its only 65% Merlot? I dont know, because a Chilean wine must contain at least 75% of the label variety. I suspect they can combine Merlot and Carmenère (which was thought to be Merlot for many decades). Anyway, this is wonderful value, given that the wine has a soft texture, concentrated dark fruit flavours and sweet tannic structure. An amazing price for wine of this quality. (RP) Biondi Santi Sassoalloro 2001 IGT Tuscany, Italy $32.95 (981407) This Sangiovese-dominant wine has bright, fresh plum and berry fruit, with spice and earthy notes. The tannins are grippy and theres lots of good acidity that makes it food-friendly. Hold it three years or so, then open it with osso bucco. (RP) Pesquera Crianza 2001 DO Ribera del Duero, Spain $27.95 (341461) One of those complex wines that has you sniffing and tasting over and over to see what else you can find. Among the descriptors in my notes: mulberry, raspberry, plum, strawberry, blackberry, pepper, spice . It has fine, forward tannins and a good acid spine. You could drink it now (with game) but youd be happier in the long run if you held it for five years. (RP) Casa de la Ermita Crianza 2001 DO Jumilla, Spain $17.95 (956334) Juicy, well structured, with up-front dark fruit with mocha and tar notes, this Mourvèdre-dominant blend has brisk acidity, firm tannins, and a long, generous finish. Stewed rabbit with prunes comes to mind. (RP) Cheers! Rod and Vic (in absentia or in Australia) |
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| Last Updated ( Monday, 31 January 2005 17:50 ) |