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by Vic Harradine
The stone church built in 1860 sits opposite the Hill of Grace vineyard also planted at that time—although it’s not on an actual hill, the land is somewhat flat. The stone-cellar building at the present Henschke winery was also built in the 1860s. Present owner/winemaker and 5th generation, Stephen Henschke’s forefathers were there at that time as well, planting vines and making wine on site—Johann Christian Henschke planted a small vineyard at Keyneton in 1862. Stephen and his skilled viticulturist wife, Prue, continue the incredible success story of this family-owned, family-run, world-renowned winery.They are known not only for their fabulous wine, but for their focus on sustainability and innovative techniques, especially in the vineyard—they have a unique nursery program preserving the genetic heritage of their oldest vines. Their philosophy is, ‘Exceptional wines from outstanding vineyards’. They are proud to be one of the select—only 11—family-owned wineries to form Australia’s First Families of Wine representing over a century of winemaking experience and excellence.
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by Vic Harradine
One man, owner Robert O’Callaghan, stands above all whether you merely scratch the surface or you dig deep at Rockford to explain their incredible wines and overall popularity and success. Gazing firmly in the rear-view mirror with a laser-like focus on the past, he’s an anomaly in a world driven by change. He makes wine at every price point that attracts wine-lovers, wine judges, wine critics and writers as much today, as ever. Rockford has two wines listed in the über-premium ‘Langton’s Classification of Australia’s Fine Wines’. Robert loves old vines, old boats, old equipment, old traditions and old techniques. He not only talks the talk, he walks the walk. The only obvious changes at Rockford from how wine has been traditionally made in the new world, are: mechanical cooling systems and cultured yeast; all else seems from the past.
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Jim Barry Wines—on the winery’s 60th anniversary—captured the prestigious 2020 Halliday Wine Companion, ‘Winery of the Year Award’!
Clare Valley, South Australia
The Clare Valley is a cooler-climate Geographical Indication (GI) wine region in the state of South Australia north of Adelaide. It’s marked by a Mediterranean-like climate with afternoon sea breezes, an exceptionally wide diurnal temperature variation and lengthy hang time for fruit on the vine. Some of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz vines in the world survive here along with numerous 4th, 5th and even 6th generation family-owned growers and wineries. The primary white grape planting is Riesling—with Clare considered its Australian home—along with Chardonnay and others. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz are the two most popular red plantings along with others including some very old Grenache vines.
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| Simon Cowham – viticulturist (left) and Corey Ryan – Winemaker (right) |
Co-owners of Sons of Eden—Winemaker, Corey Ryan and Viticulturist, Simon Cowham—are two switched-on Barossa wine aficionados with a combined history in this region of 50 years.
Corey Ryan, besides his 25 years in the Barossa, also lays claim to being crowned New Zealand Winemaker of the Year in 2007. He was a finalist as Australian Winemaker of the Year in 2016. He points to his tenure as winemaker for Henschke as a defining moment in his career. Whilst at Sons of Eden we tasted a stunning line up of fine wine fashioned under his focused guidance.
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Yalumba has almost magically kept their traditions alive while infusing itself with cutting edge ideas and technology. They are the only winery in the southern hemisphere—and one of a handful in the world—to have its own, on-site cooperage—using virtually the same techniques since 1850, the barrels are made in a traditional, hand-crafted method. However, it allows winemakers to precision order and utilise barrels made to the highest specification for each variety and style of wine. Yalumba has also become a vociferous proponent of sustainable agriculture and a world leader working with Viognier. They’re a member of Australia’s First Families of Wine, a 12-member group of family-owned wineries that represent more than 1200 years of winemaking excellence—Yalumba Chair, Robert Hill-Smith, recently cited Canada as a country embracing the First Families raison d’être, vision and in purchasing their fine wines.
Read more: Yalumba Family Vignerons of Barossa – Australia’s oldest family-run winery
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The iconic John Duval was Penfolds’ Chief Winemaker 1986 – 2002 responsible for making the 1990 Grange capturing the Wine Spectator, ‘Wine of the Year’ award. Penfolds’ premium red wines—Bin 407, Bin 138 and RWT—were developed on his watch as was the ‘White Grange’ project that eventually developed the über-premium Yattarna Chardonnay and led to the Reserve Bin A Chardonnay. In 1989 John was named, ‘International Winemaker of the Year’ and later in 1991 and 2000 named, ‘International Red Winemaker of the Year’. (information courtesy Penfolds’ website)
Read more: John Duval Wines, sourced in Barossa Valley and Eden Valley, South Australia
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Wakefield Wines is owned and managed by the Taylor family of Australia. Their wines trade as ‘Taylor Wines’ in most of the Southern Hemisphere and Asia. They trade as ‘Wakefield Wines’ in most of the Northern Hemisphere, including Canada, due to trademark restrictions concerning the primarily Port producer, Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman Ltd.
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by Lisa Isabelle: wine writer (www.winecurrent.com), wine educator (Algonquin College), wine critic (www.winecurrent.com) with reviews re-published in LCBO Vintages Release catalogues, and on agents and winery web sites around the world.
Ottawa had the pleasure of hosting the Canadian Culinary Championships January 31-February 1, 2020. I was pleased to be invited, along with Louise Boutin (her comments and reviews follow), to attend events as a member of the media. Over the course of the weekend, 12 top chefs from across the country competed in a variety of events showcasing excellence in Canadian food and wine.
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Sidewood Estate
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Family-owned (Owen and Cassandra Inglis) Sidewood Estate has implemented numerous sustainable and environmentally friendly practices across many endeavours. From this, they are now the largest fully ‘Entwine Accredited sustainable winery’ in the Adelaide Hills.
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Felton Road Wines
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• Vic’s final tasting in his New Zealand visit was at the iconic, organic/biodynamic Felton Road Wines during the recent Central Otago Wine Festival. The wines selections were made, introduced and poured with excellent commentary by another icon—Felton Road winemaker, Blair Walter.