by Susan Desjardins
Located just south of the quaint Sonoma County town of Healdsburg, the Rodney Strong Vineyards tasting room is surrounded by some of the founder’s extensive original vineyards. Not only can you take a self-guided tour, or taste flights of wines on the terrace, Chef Tara Watchee has developed a finely balanced wine and food pairing experience where both components shine. As an example, the lively red fruit flavours of the 2015 Rosé of Pinot Noir were complemented by a salad of watermelon, grilled corn, basil, Black Pig bacon, verjus and estate olive oil.
The winery was established in 1959 by acclaimed dancer and dance producer, Rod Strong, who had fallen in love with wine while working in Paris. Under his innovative direction, the winery thrived for over 40 years, achieving milestones such as the first single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - Alexander's Crown - which is still produced to this day. He was one of the first to plant Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley, and the first to produce a ‘Chalk Hill’ Chardonnay. As Rod Strong was developing his wines and reputation in Sonoma County and beyond, Tom Klein was pursuing his education and subsequent career as a management consultant. With the long Klein family history and experience in farming, Tom must have seemed the ideal partner to Rod Strong when they established a consulting relationship.
Eventually, the Klein family purchased the winery in 1989, then set about acquiring additional vineyards, so that they now manage 14 outstanding estates encompassing in the order of 1400 acres, all in Sonoma County, ranging from the Alexander Valley in the north out to the Sonoma Coast. The range of vineyards and terroir ties into Tom Klein’s strong belief in the importance of place in winemaking – “Place isn’t the only thing, but place is the most important thing”. Rodney Strong wines are produced using only Sonoma County fruit and are made to Tom Klein's exacting maxim - NO shortcuts.
With the goal of building a range of premium wines, David Ramey was hired as consultant and the 'Artisan' cellar was created, using smaller fermentation tanks to allow for fermentation of select rows of fruit, while additional investments were made in French oak barrels. Experimentation continues and has extended to the purchase of concrete Roman eggs for fermentation, and now to the creation of the square tank cellar, and extraordinary investment. Winemaker Justin Seidenfeld has worked with LaGarde Inox, a unique steel tank producer based in Quebec, to invent, design and produce special 6000 gallon square fermentation tanks. We’ve all seen the standard round steel tanks with dimpled cooling jackets. You may ask, why are these square tanks such an improvement? For one, they use space in the winery much more efficiently, and they have a variety of unique and highly beneficial features. As an example, autumn days are often quite warm in Sonoma County, so harvested grapes arriving from the vineyards may heat up and be at risk of spontaneous fermentation. These tanks were specified to provide more cool surface area to grapes, permitting the rapid cooling of grapes as they arrive from the vineyard – voila, reduced risk of spontaneous fermentation. A specially designed pump aperture ensures the pumped over wine covers the entire breadth of the tank, providing for better contact with the cap. Further, the shape delivers more surface area of juice to cap, providing for better extraction of colour and flavours, more softness and suppleness to the wine (as proven in blind tastings by the Rodney Strong winemaking team and owner Tom Klein). The polishing process for the insides of the tanks, which was jointly developed by Justin and LaGarde’s engineering team, reduces water consumption for cleaning and sterilization by 50-70% (critical in drought-stricken California). Justin speaks with passion and excitement about the opportunities these tanks provide for him to enhance the quality of Rodney Strong wines, as well as the sustainability of the winery operations. It’s not surprising that this Rodney Strong innovation is now being adopted by numerous other highly reputable wineries in the U.S.
With his family background in farming, Tom Klein is strongly committed to sustainability in the vineyards and the cellar. Environmental protection is an integral part of the organization’s corporate values. Solar panels were installed as early as 2001, and along the way, Rodney Strong Vineyards has developed practices that allow them to be designated Fish-Friendly Farmers. Recently, they became Sonoma County’s first carbon-neutral winery.
We're fortunate that many Rodney Strong wines find their way through the Vintages program to the LCBO. Many of those wines were tasted during the visit, and you'll see from the notes that the intense focus on the grapes, the vineyards and the winemaking delivers quality at all levels of the portfolio.
Rodney Strong 'Charlotte's Home' Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Northern Sonoma $18.95 (449207) 13.5% alcohol
Fruit from the Alexander Valley vineyard originally planted by Rod Strong in 1971 is the basis for this wine, which also includes fruit from the Russian River and Dry Creek valleys. A small percentage of the wine was fermented in French oak, adding a whiff of spice to the lifted aromas of white flowers, ripe tropical and stone fruits, citrus and lemon balm. Silky and clean on the palate, the layered flavours of passion fruit, ripe melon, peach and bright citrus shine through, a nuance of pithy grapefruit and mineral undertones adding zest to the long lasting, vibrant finish. Lovely well chilled on its own, it’s ideal paired with seafood salad. (Susan Desjardins)
Rodney Strong 'Chalk Hill' Chardonnay 2014
Sonoma County $24.95 (275552) 14.5% alcohol
Notes of tropical fruit and butter, vanilla custard and hints of mineral grace the nose of this wine, produced from fruit grown on the unique volcanic white-ash soil of the Russian River Valley. Dry, medium-full bodied, it's rich and creamy in texture, yet retains freshness that is a perfect match for the lush flavours of lemon curd, sweet apple and pineapple. The mineral quality is subtly present on the palate, while nuances of warm baking spice linger on the tangy finish. Serve with pasta garnished with shrimp and scallops sautéed in olive oil and garlic. (Susan Desjardins)
Davis Bynum 'Jane's Vineyard' Pinot Noir 2014
Russian River Valley $39.95 (458893) 14.5% alcohol
Davis Bynum is recognized as the first winery to create, in 1973, a single vineyard Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley fruit. Rodney Strong maintains the tradition with this semi-transparent ruby gem. Notes of vanilla and sweet baking spice layer on aromas of ripe cherry/berry complemented by earthy nuances. Dry, medium bodied, there's a lovely freshness to the texture, well paired with the wealth of ripe red cherry and plum flavours. Delicate notes of warm spice, vanilla and cedar emerge and linger through the lengthy, tangy finish. Serve with a Provençal salad with duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)
Rodney Strong Pinot Noir 2014
Russian River Valley $25.95 (954834) 13.9% alcohol
Produced from a blend of fruit from the valley, this approachable Pinot offers lively aromas of red fruit, hints of earthy, roasted beetroot and notions of spice and dried herbs. Dry, light-medium bodied, it's bright with well-defined acidity and juicy flavours of red cherry and plum, light hints of smoky oak and spice persisting through the vibrant finish. Serve with cedar-planked salmon. (Susan Desjardins)
Rodney Strong 'Alexander Valley' Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Alexander Valley $28.30 (352452) 14.5% alcohol
Showing powerful fruit while retaining a fresh texture, this deep ruby Cabernet offers intense aromas and flavours of black berry, plum and dark chocolate-coated cherry mingling with nuances of dried herbs and earth, while extended aging in French oak layers on notes of cedar and spice. Dry, full and powerful, the wine is crafted with balance, the supple yet perceptible tannins paired with fine acidity frame lush, ripe, dark fruit. Subtle notes of toast and dark chocolate drift across the palate through the lengthy finish. Enjoy now with herbed roast lamb or cellar. (Susan Desjardins)
Rodney Strong 'Knights Valley' Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Sonoma County $35.95 (456723) 14.0% alcohol
From one of the winery's warmest vineyards, this opaque ruby red delivers great intensity with aromas of black berry and pit fruit while hints of toast, herbs and mineral tease the nose. Dry, full bodied, it's structured with ripe velvety tannins and fresh acidity to complement the powerful blackberry, plum and blueberry flavours. Eighteen months in oak bring notes of cocoa and coffee bean to the fore, a hint of smokiness drifting through the long, dry finish. Serve with grilled steak and Portobello mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)
Rodney Strong 'Symmetry' Meritage 2012
Alexander Valley $70.95 (641142) 14.5% alcohol
Principally Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with Merlot and small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, each varietal is fermented separately with only the best wines used in this blend. Perfumed with floral notes and spice, offering intense fruit aromas, this is a robust well-structured red blend designed for cellaring. The firm, defined tannins are a well-crafted foil for the big powerful flavours of cassis and blackberry. Luscious notes of dark chocolate-coated coffee bean and hints of spice and cedar add complexity, persisting through the lengthy dry finish. Cellar or decant and serve with rare prime rib. (Susan Desjardins)
Rodney Strong 'Rockaway' Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Alexander Valley $100.95 (202507) 14.5% alcohol
This premium single-vineyard gem is produced from fruit grown on southwest facing slopes at elevations exposing it to both intense sun and cooling Pacific breezes. Lushly expressive, the rich aromas of ripe red and black fruit combine with subtle notes of vanilla and sweet spice, dried cooking herbs and earth. Dry, full bodied and opulent, the velvety yet robust structure frames lush ripe fruits with blackberry, boysenberry and plum to the fore. The extended aging in French oak—over 50% new--bring notes of chocolate and sweet spice to the long smooth finish. Decant and serve with lamb and a red wine reduction, or cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)
* The following previously reviewed wines still have limited supply in many LCBO stores.
Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Sonoma County $24.95 (226944) 13.5% alcohol
This opens with a funky nose of earthy notes, tapenade and grilled herb aromas. It spills over the palate with a racy, mouth-watering wash of sour cherry and red currant garnished with spice, vanilla and savory bits. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a substantial finish garnished with good acidity and a lick of tannin—the tannin’s easily ameliorated with a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Rodney Strong Merlot 2012
Sonoma County $22.95 (497933) 13.5% alcohol
Rodney Strong, of the crowd-pleasing, value-for-money, consumer-friendly wine, has done it again. Ripe cherry/berry and mulberry jam coat the palate interweaving with dark bittersweet chocolate, fine-grained tannin and red cherry tang. This is chockfull of flavour, dishing up creamy smooth texture and a finish of balanced, ripe, dark fruit and racy tang. (Vic Harradine)
Rodney Strong ‘Brothers Ridge’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $99.95 (405209) 15.5% alcohol
This California Cab flirted with 5 stars, it’s from the ‘perfect storm’ that fashioned the 2012 Alexander Valley bumper-crop vintage—warm, dry days and cool nights allowed a lengthy, even growing season producing mature grapes with balanced tannin, racy acidity and ripe fruit flavour. Earthiness, cedar and spice box aromas foretell a swashbuckling wash of black berry, cassis and pie cherry coating the palate—full bodied, fully textured and full-bore delectable. It finishes fresh and lively with good tang, sweet tannin and brushstrokes of dark plum and bittersweet chocolate. Drink 2018 to 2024. (Vic Harradine)
