by Susan Desjardins
If you enjoy wine, food and cataclysmic geology, then a trip from the South Okanagan through Washington state to Portland, Oregon will delight you.
We spent a week recently in this area discovering amazing vistas and canyons, basalt cliffs, desert mesas and, of course, extensive vineyards. The landscape along the majestic Columbia River has been shaped by massive volcanic eruptions and frequent, torrential glacial floods originating from ancient Lake Missoula. What remains of this is fertile soil over hundreds of feet of mineral-rich basalt, dry falls larger than Niagara and the gorge through which the Columbia flows, now a remnant of the raging waters that covered the area thousands of years ago.
The heat and dry landscape of the Sonoran desert sweeps up through central Washington state, so irrigation is critical for the fruit and wine grape industry. The many dams along the Columbia River, as well as snow melt from the Cascade range, provide the necessary water for this industry. We had the opportunity to visit two very different wineries, Columbia Crest, in the Horse Heaven Hills (H3) American Viticultural Area (AVA), a sub-region of the Columbia River AVA, which produces approximately 3 million cases annually (equivalent to the entire production of wine in Ontario, but only 1% of California's production); and Treveri, a small family-owned and operated producer of about 15,000 cases of sparkling wine, located near Yakima.
Continuing through the Columbia River gorge, we transitioned, almost instantly, from desert to temperate forest and found our way to Portland, Oregon, a very green city with extensive walking paths, dedicated bicycle lanes, extensive mass transit and wonderful parks. It seems every house is surrounded by lush plantings—the azaleas, camellias and spring bulbs were in full bloom, the trees fully leafed out. The city also offers wonderful wine and dine opportunities, including an unusual urban winery, the South East Wine Collective, founded in 2012, offering winemakers the opportunity to share the intensive start-up experience and the costs of winemaking space and equipment. The location includes the wine cellar as well as an attractive tasting bar and patio with appealing light snacks and, of course, tasting flights of the wines made on the premises. From Portland we headed south into the Willamette Valley where we visited Duck Pond Cellars and Dobbes Family Estate in the Dundee, centre of one of the oldest wine-growing regions in the area.
Columbia Crest
Columbia Crest, located just north of the Columbia River valley, on desert-like rolling hills, is part of the Chateau Ste. Michelle family, the contemporary winery sited on an estate that was privately owned until its purchase over 30 years ago. The first Columbia Crest winemaker was appointed in 1982 with commercial release of white wines beginning in 1987, followed by red wines in 1988. The hot, arid, windy climate favours the grapes--moderating pests and disease—while the use of drip irrigation allows the viticulture team to strictly manage water delivered to the vines, encouraging them to root deep into the mineral-rich soils. This is a region that delivers intensely flavoured, ripe fruit producing creamy Chardonnay and plush, concentrated Cabernet, Merlot and red blends. By 1990, Wine Advocate had named Columbia Crest as one of the best-value wineries in the world. In 1997, Wine Spectator included two of its wines in the Top 100 list, and in 2009, Wine Spectator selected the 2005 Columbia Crest 'Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon as the #1 Wine of the Year in its Top 100. The winery honours its successes and its antecedents. As an example, the ‘Walter Clore’ Private Reserve is produced in honour of its namesake, who was the first to prove the viability of vitis vinifera in Washington state.
With the guidance of winemaker Juan Muñoz-Oca, the winery continues to innovate and experiment. The most creative example is probably the winery’s Crowd-Sourced Cabernet where a wealth of information is provided on the website and weekly decisions are voted on by ‘aficionados’ who can influence the final product, which many of them will undoubtedly purchase. In addition, the white wine team is fermenting small-batch Chardonnay in a concrete 'Roman Egg', where natural convection occurs during fermentation, and terracotta amphorae lined with beeswax have been used in fermentation of Viognier. Given the winery’s focus on quality, ripe fruit from its own and contract vineyards, the focused attention in the cellar and ongoing innovation, you can count on Columbia Crest for well-made wines. Several Columbia Crest wines make their way to the LCBO, and others, such as the Sauvignon Blanc described below, are expected in future releases.
Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Columbia Valley, Washington State $17.95 (240093) 13.5% alcohol
This is fruit forward, fully textured, complex and structured—can’t get enough of Washington State red wine in general, and in particular from Columbia Crest. Savory herbs, sharp spice and mixed, dark field berry fruit aromas set the table for a feast of flavour. Rich, dense blackcurrant, kirsch liqueur and mulberry jam coat the palate, infusing the lingering aftertaste. (Previously reviewed by Vic Harradine)
Columbia Crest ‘H3’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State $19.95 (210047) 14.0% alcohol
This is a lovely red with the price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. A subdued nose of mixed spice and dark cherry/berry fruit unleashes a delectable wash of balanced and beautiful flavours with red and black currant and juicy black Bing cherry to the fore. It’s medium bodied with generous texture and long, balanced finish showcasing delicious ripe fruit. Each sip is as good or better than the previous. (Previously reviewed by Vic Harradine)
Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Chardonnay 2012
Columbia Valley $17.95 (366542) 13.5% alcohol
This was tough to spit—it’s balanced, elegant and smooth as butter with a lengthy delicious aftertaste. Sweet vanilla and baking spice on the nose, it bathes the palate with a toasty flow of tropical fruit, ripe apple and tangy lemon pie filling. Medium weight with good mouth feel, it finishes balanced and beautiful showcasing excellent acidity melding with riper orchard fruit—pear and apple. Pick up a few for sipping or pairing with veal, pork or chicken. (In the May 30, 2015 release, reviewed by Vic Harradine)
Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Merlot 2012
Columbia Valley, Washington State $19.95 (263418) 13.5% alcohol
If you enjoy a robust, fruity Merlot, this great value is for you. The perfumed nose offers notes of black cherry and berry, hints of spice and chocolate. Dry, medium bodied, the round, ripe texture is matched to velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Plush fruit flavours are complemented by notes of vanilla, mocha, spice and a touch of pepper. Enjoy the hint of roasted coffee bean on the fruit-filled finish. (Susan Desjardins)
Columbia Crest ‘H3’ Merlot 2012
Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State $21.95 (209874) 14.5% alcohol
The Merlot of the Horse Heaven Hills (a desert-like landscape near the Columbia River with irrigated vineyards as far as the eye can see), like its counterpart in the south Okanagan, is known for its depth and structure. On the nose, enjoy aromas of black plum, cherry and berry, the oak aging offering notes of spice, dried herbs and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, firm in structure with perceptible tannin and fresh acidity, this is a wine with depth and intensity. Rich, ripe dark fruit is complemented by notes of dark chocolate-coated cherries, toasty oak and subtle nuances of herbs and exotic spice. Long and smooth on the finish, this wine will pair with grilled rib-eye steaks. (Susan Desjardins)
Columbia Crest ‘H3 Les Chevaux’ Red Blend 2012
Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State $19.95 (287425) 14.5% alcohol
Principally Syrah, blended with Merlot and small amounts of other grape varieties, this shows complexity on the nose—floral notes, plum, blueberry and blackberry, notes of licorice, exotic spice and lavender. Dry, full bodied, the ripe tannins and a fine degree of fresh acidity frame flavours of brambleberry pie, cocoa and smoky toast. The texture is plush yet spicy and peppery through the warm, dry finish. Tremendous balance of rich fruit and well-defined structure makes this a good value for the cellar and a great match for herbed lamb chops. (Susan Desjardins)
• The following wine is slated for an upcoming Vintages release
Columbia Crest ‘H3’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State $ tbd 13.0% alcohol
Very aromatic, created after the winemaker had spent a season in New Zealand, this offers notes of gooseberry, fresh herbs, passion fruit and lime. Dry, medium bodied and pungent, the flavours of grapefruit and passion fruit are tangy, the herbal notes subtle, the acidity vibrant, the texture zesty and mouth watering. Well balanced, the wine finishes long, clean and crisp. Chill and serve with goat cheese and roasted tomato pizza. (Susan Desjardins)
While only 4 years from its first commercial offering, Treveri Cellars’ sparkling wine has travelled from Washington State to Washington D.C., where several of its products have been served at State Department events.
Juergen Grieb grew up in Trier, Germany, and completed his degree in winemaking and sparkling winemaking in the Rüwer Valley, not far from his home town. Following his professional certification, which included an apprenticeship at the Karthäusehof Winery, Juergen moved to Washington State, where he made wine for Langguth Winery. Having decided to establish his own winery, the only one in the state focused only on sparkling wines, he returned to his roots to devise the unique name of this winery. Trier was the seat of the Roman Emperor Constantine, and was called ‘Augusta Trevorum’, which later became ‘Treveris’, which Juergen adapted for Treveri Cellars.
Juergen and his son, Christian, share winemaking responsibilities, while Julie, Juergen’s wife, acts as General Manager. Treveri sources their fruit from premium vineyards identified through their partnerships with growers on long-term contracts and they craft their wines using ‘methode traditionelle’. Christian can also be found in the tasting room on occasion and is not above preparing and serving cheese plates and light snacks from the kitchen when the winery finds itself short staffed. The winery has a lovely patio overlooking the local vineyards where you can sip a glass of their bubbly from a classic flute.
While Treveri’s focus is on varietal sparkling wines (Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Syrah), they have recently released a ‘Sec’ German blend composed of equal parts Riesling Mueller-Thurgau and Gewürztraminer – it was fabulous! I was delighted to discover that one of the Treveri wines featured at the U.S. State Department is available through the LCBO.
Treveri Cellars ‘Extra Brut’ Blanc de Blanc Non Vintage
Yakima Valley, Washington State $16.25 (383844) 12.0% alcohol
An excellent value, this 100% Chardonnay is produced Methode Traditionelle and has found its way to U.S. State Department receptions. With zero dosage, it comes in at 2.5 grams of residual sugar, so if you want an absolutely dry, finely crafted sparkling wine, you’ve found it. On the nose, notice the hint of lees, spritely lemon-lime and a touch of ripe melon. Full of verve, tangy and crisp in texture, the wine replays citrus fruit on the palate with flavours carried on a wave of refined mousse to a lasting, pleasantly tart finish. Whet your palate with this and carry on through the appetizer course. (Susan Desjardins)
Duck Pond Cellars is proudly family-owned, established in the Willamette Valley over 20 years ago by Doug and Jo Ann Fries, who moved to Oregon from California’s Central Valley in the early 1980s. The Fries family purchased their first property in Dundee in 1984, planting a 13-acre vineyard (as wine aficionados) and a 500-acre hazelnut orchard. As it turns out, Dundee is the centre of hazelnut production in the U.S. (visit the Red Hills Market to try their hazelnut, bacon and rosemary appetizer). While son Greg pursued oenology and winemaking studies at UC Davis, his sister Lisa was completing her college degree. Studies completed, the family put their heads together and decided to establish their own small winery. In 1993, Duck Pond Cellars opened, selling about 1000 cases of wine, mostly through their tasting room. The family continued to acquire land in other AVAs in Oregon, focusing their production on Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Their first international market was Canada- both their Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris are available through the LCBO and they now sell over 60,000 cases of Oregon wine in 44 states and 22 countries.
Eventually, following their interest in producing wines requiring warmer growing conditions, they purchased a large parcel of land in Eastern Washington state – the Wahluke Slope – not far from Yakima, naming the estate, Desert Wind. They planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay. Look for their red blend Ruah (chosen for its interpretation as a new breath, or life) in the LCBO later this year.
While Greg has taken on responsibility for winemaking, Doug is still active, especially at harvest and Jo Ann was in the tasting room helping daughter-in-law Erin during our visit. As we toured the property and cellar with Scott Jenkins, Lisa’s husband and partner in Duck Pond’s successful expansion into new markets, the family pride was evident. He took us out to the ‘duck pond’ in front of the winery, explaining that Doug and Jo Ann hauled the rocks and built the pond themselves not long after the winery opened. The site is wonderful for outdoor events, and their location close to Portland makes Duck Pond an ideal destination, as we discovered. The family’s warm welcome makes it a place you want to revisit – don’t miss it!
Duck Pond Cellars Pinot Gris 2013
Willamette Valley, Oregon $19.95 (333286) 12.6% alcohol
There’s a flinty quality underlying the attractive aromas of pear, apple and stone fruit. Dry, almost colourless, medium bodied and fruity, zesty notes of citrus pith mingle with flavours of pear and peach. The finely wrought acidity shines through, the mineral character underlying the tasty fruit. There’s depth, complexity and freshness to this wine and a lingering pithiness on the finish. Enjoy with roast pork tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)
Duck Pond Cellar Pinot Noir 2013
Willamette Valley, Oregon $29.95 (427872) 13.5%alcohol
Produced from fruit from both the Umpqua and Willamette valleys, aged principally in French oak, this vintage is replete with aromas of rich ripe berry and cherry, earth, spice and vanilla. Dry, medium-bodied, the cool climate shines through in the finely honed acidity, the mineral notes and the tangy red fruit flavours. Cinnamon spice, vanilla and a whiff of toast are subtly layered to offer complexity and depth, the spice lingering on the round, flavourful finish. As was the 2010, this is stylish and masterfully balanced. Great with grilled coho salmon.(Susan Desjardins)
• The following wine is slated for an upcoming Vintages release
Desert Hills Ruah 2013
Wahluke Slope, Washington State $ tbd 14.2% alcohol
Fashioned in the style of a Bordeaux blend, the Fries family’s big Washington state Merlot is combined with the Cabernets, Syrah and a touch of Petit Verdot to create lifted aromas of spice, dried herbs, generous ripe dark fruit and an elusive note of iron. Dry, full bodied, this is an intense, powerful red offering firm structure matched to concentrated flavours—black cherry, plum and berry with notes of pepper, fine herbs and sumptuous dark chocolate and mocha. With a long, intense, dry finish it could be cellared or matched now with juicy grilled steak. (Susan Desjardins)
Also located in Dundee, the Dobbes family winery was established in 2002 by Joe Dobbes “with a small amount of money in my back pocket, a lot of experience and passion, and sufficient ignorance of what I was up against.” In 2004, Joe met his wife Patricia, a Columbia-educated lawyer who had emigrated to the U.S. while she was visiting family across the street from his home. Joe provided her with the opportunity to visit vineyards, help with the harvest and generally learn more about the wine business. They were married in 2006 and Patricia now supports promotion of the company and helps out in the well-appointed yet casual tasting room where we met her on our visit.
The family estate is the 214-acre Sea Breeze Vineyard in the Willamette Valley, planted to several Pinot Noir clones, but they also source fruit from long-term Oregon vineyard partners in a variety of sub-AVAs. The fruit from each site is fermented and aged separately. While the focus is on Pinot Noir, whether single vineyard or a blend of fruit from vineyards of different soil types, elevation and clones, the Dobbes Family Estate also produces several other wines such as Pinot Gris, Grenache Blanc and their ‘Grand Assemblage’ Syrah co-fermented with Viognier. Dobbes wines are available in 11 countries, including Canada, and 48 states. Wine by Joe Pinot Noir is the most commonly available wine in the LCBO, but at the winery you can sample the extensive collection of outstanding premium Pinot Noir, such as those named after the Dobbes children, Amelia Rose and Griffin.
Wine by Joe Pinot Noir 2013
Willamette Valley, Oregon $24.95 (60467) 13.5% alcohol
Produced from fruit harvested from several vineyards and aged 8-10 month in neutral French oak, this classic Oregon Pinot Noir offers clean aromas of red cherries, berries, sweet spice and a whiff of vanilla. Dry and medium bodied, it matches tangy red fruit and strawberry-rhubarb flavours with lively, fresh acidity to create a dry, tangy finish. A fine value and one that’ll pair with grilled Portobello mushrooms and pork tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)